Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.
How To Restore Vintage Pioneer
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- This is it! The most complete Pioneer restoration how-to video on CZcams!
Please read this. Only use this video to help you restore your Pioneer or other receiver if you're very confident in your abilities. I'm not responsible if you damage something or hurt yourself. Most importantly, understand that this is MY take on doing a restoration. Others might have different ways of doing things, others may also think things in this video are just plain wrong. This is a long video, but there's probably things that I forgot to mention in places.
There really is no perfect model to use as the subject of this video because there is so much variation between all 70s Pioneer receivers - even amongst generations! Higher wattage receivers are far more complicated than this SX-535, so keep that in mind if you hope to use this as a guide for one of those. You will probably find that this video is not helpful in some ways, but still helpful in others.
If you have questions, you can leave them in the comments or send me an email. You can find my email in this channel's "about" section.
Links:
Right tools for the job: • Must-Have Tools For Wo...
Another "how it works" video: • How A Vintage Receiver...
How to find parts: • How To Find Parts For ...
Don't blindly substitute transistors: • Don't Blindly Substitu...
Lamp replacement: • How To Re-Lamp Your Pi...
Transistor substitutions (use with caution): audiokarma.org/forums/index.p...
Service manuals: www.hifiengine.com
Check out DieseJL: / diesejl
0:00 - Introduction
2:12 - Why Restore?
3:35 - What To Know
5:05 - How It Works
12:08 - How To Use Service Manual
24:34 - Parts To Buy
35:16 - Additional Background On This Particular Receiver
37:49 - Disassembly
42:15 - Preamp Detailed Restoration
43:32 - Using The Service Manual
49:08 - Desoldering
54:56 - Glue Removal
56:31 - Soldering
1:06:13 - Cleaning Controls
1:09:13 - Phono Preamp Restoration
1:17:24 - Power Amplifier Restoration
1:27:39 - Filter Capacitor Replacement
1:36:56 - Power Supply Restoration
1:44:57 - Tuner Board Restoration
1:46:08 - Adjustments
1:50:53 - Power Test
1:53:46 - Rant
1:56:23 - Conclusion
I had been looking for a vintage receiver and bought a Pioneer SX-535 off marketplace for $60. It supposedly "worked", but when I hooked it up to my speakers it had issues, dc voltage at the speaker outputs. I found this video and thought I would try to repair it. I ordered a kit from eBay, bought a de-soldering tool (game-changer), and practiced my soldering skills on some old boards. When I felt confident, I started on the amp board. I had a couple of mis-steps (dim bulb tester saved me), but I managed to repair the amp board and now have the receiver that works very well. Great video, very informative.
good information. just some additions from a guy who has been doing this for over 40yrs 🙂 i always replace composite resistors with 1% film resistors. composites are a huge noise source and that causes your gear to fight with itself. also replace all the ceramic caps that you can with film caps. you should leave the tuner circuits alone if you are watching this vid! tuners are the most complex part of the audio system and that is no place for a novice. who listens to radio any more anyway 🙂always shield your signal wires and pay attention to its routing. if you can get new diodes, they are cheap, it is better to replace them all. same with small transistors. the power transistors may be harder to find and will cost more. since you are in there, if you can get them within reason, do it. components are generally pretty cheap. if you are going to do it, do it right so you will not have to worry about it for a long time. i want to reinforce your dislike of tantalum caps. there should never be any in an audio gear. all this will give you much better sound stage and headroom. you will find that you will not turn up your music as loud because you will hear everything at lower power level. this makes for a more efficient gear and helps save your ears too 🙂the system just deleted some of my comment but i guess it'll have to do. well done vid. lots of work. cheers 🙂
Thanks for taking the time to record the rebuild as well as the schematic tutorial. You can’t beat hands on training. Much better than reading a book or web page.
Excellent reference video that covers every aspect. Brilliantly well done
Your diagram and explanation of how the receiver works is extremely helpful in understanding how things are put together and work together. Great video.
Love your description of how the receiver works especially when you used my favorite phrase..."big fat cans"...😂😂
Wow, I'm sittin here at home going to electronic engineering school for free! Been fixing electronics for years, but your schematic drawing through the manual actually made sense for me for the first time in decades! Thanks for the video!
I am pinching myself with a THIRD Hitachi (SR-503L) that I bought for $120. It was advertised as recently revised and the job seems to have been well done; incl. proper audio-grade Nichicon FG's in the signal paths and replacement of transistors with known issues. I found the selector switch needed a bit more cleaning, which I flushed with generic e-contact cleaner (cheaper than D5), let dry, then spritzed with Deoxit D5. The unit itself is really clean...EXC++.
The man who sold it had a much more expensive amp that had been sent for service, so this was his stop gap unit for that period. Clearly, he spared no expense on this Hitachi.
In any event, I bid and got it for a literal steal.
Using it on my office desk with a Marantz EQ20 (mint/like new, bid/won for $120), replacing a Hitachi SR-903 that I am preparing to revise on my own. Parts were ordered for this SR903 (plus the one being used in the family room); most of these parts have arrived. In addition, waiting on a TC-1 tester so that I can gain (hFE) match the SKC1845's and SKA992's that were purchased in bulk. The SR-903 is a terrific unit but a bit too large for a desktop. The service manual is very clear and the PCB's are all well marked (unlike Pioneer), so I am looking forward to these revisions.
The SR-503L is a perfect desktop unit and is paired with 2 sets of bookshelf speakers [(A)Mordaunt Short 20i's and (B)Sony SS CSD1's]. Plenty of power, as I seldom go above 3 on the volume control (usually I stay
You are the Bob Ross of stereo receiver repair world!
Very nice how you talk through every little detail, I have a hard time talking things through when Im working on my stuff, all in my own head if you will. Very nice job!
Boy do these video's take me back to my time as a bench tech in the seventies. I've fixed dozens of every unit you've done so far.
You should get back into it there is a huge shortage of techs for the old stuff
@@madmanmechanic8847 Unfortunately, Most of the quality vintage audio gear has been bought on eBay and shipped to either Japan or China. I've been in wharehouses filled to the ceiling with vintage electronics waiting to be shipped out. Sad.
I like to use a sharpie to mark the tops of the old caps. I mark them on the side that faces forward. Then when I pull it out I can remember which way it faced by looking at which side the mark is on. You can't always trust the board being marked correctly.
OMG I watched season veterans who spent a life time in the electronics industry even design engineers and this was one of the most informative videos on receiver restoration I have seen with some of the best explanations. Thank you I am a subscriber now.
Long time I was trying learn how receiver works, searched CZcams and Google, couldn’t get result, finally shortly I learn from this video , easy to understand for short time, thank you so much sir.
I appreciate your self discipline in keeping to a tight and focused discourse while covering a restoration project absolutely fraught with invitation to digress, ramble or otherwise slowly trail off.....
THANKS!
Thank you, thank you, thank you so much for making this video. I can tell you put a lot of time and effort into making it and I am so grateful. I learned a lot in a way that is easy to understand and am looking forward to seeing the video when you learn more about FM alignment. Great job!
Your video helped me dip my toe into understanding schematics. I appreciated your taking the time to explain some basics more seasoned repair guys already know. Definitely nowhere near ready to jump in and tear down a Pioneer even with your step-through, but I definitely learned some things I can build on.
My brother bought one of these on my recommendation because the price was $70 CAN ($50 US). It 'worked' but he reported that his speakers 'popped' - no surprise, right?
I will be doing the exact same restoration on this exact model in the next week. I am experienced at electronic repair at the component level, but am new to restoring vintage receivers. I am really looking forward to the project. I appreciate you taking the time to make this video because you have already saved me additional hours.
Well done.
Most Excellent video! I have learned a lot from all of your videos and will be looking for a Pioneer project of my own soon. I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking the time and putting in the effort to make them.
Roy
Thank you. Exactly the video I have been looking for. Filled the remaining gaps in my understanding.
Great video I have a 535 with bad filter caps. Going to replace them, then recap the whole thing. This was a huge help. Subscribed! Thanks!!
Thank you for this run-through.. doing my first Pioneer, a 737 and this info and video is relavant for a newbie. Especially the signal path and how to choose the caps, ect. Going well so far... thanks !
Great channel man, wow ! II got the 343 great little amp, very warm sounding. Cleaned it twice and now the knobs create no problem.
Just now realized its Friday because you uploaded! Nice!
TGIF!
Thanks for doing this. You are helping a lot of people. Appreciate you brother!
An excellent, well-done and well-presented video. Great job. A few suggestions: I've found cosmetic swabs to be better than the Q-tip type as the fiberous packing is much tighter with far less chance fibers will be left behind when applying heat transfer compound for best surface-to-surface contact. Pronunciation is "Mike-ah", as in the silicate mineral it is.
Watched with pleasure, thanks for the golden content.
I think as time goes on (and these units become more rare) they will appreciate in value so as to reflect the true cost of restoring them, even at $100 per hour shop rates. They just aren’t built like this anymore, and even the lower end less expensive units like this have far better sound output than most of the digital junk out there today. I’m currently restoring a 1974 AKAI AA-910, and I have a 1975 Sansui and a 1981 AKAI waiting to go on the bench soon after. Good video, thanks!
you realize that's just the power of suggestion? THD is THD wherever it comes from.
All electrolytic capacitors are being phased out & from the looks of things it's going to be almost impossible to rebuild or repair anything that has electrolytic capacitors in them, all major cap manufacturers have posted that they will not be manufacturing electrolytics, check it out & the reason. . . Isssss. . . IT'S GOOD FOR THE PLANET, or as we're being told they're obsolete, which is nonsense, it's so fewer people in the near future will have radios that can be converted to broadcast units
That looks just like my Sherwood S-9910 circa 1982. These are great receiver's. I used to have a set of Klipsch Corner Horns hooked to it, now my daughter has a Pioneer direct drive turntable feeding it with a set of KEF studio monitors making the music for her vinyl collection and it's still going strong. Had to replace the meter bulbs a few years ago, that's it.
This is great, thanks. I just bought a Marantz 2226B and going to dive in and restore.
Absolutely one of the best videos I've ever seen. Thanks
I admire your Restoring vintage Stereo's. What a cool talent. I've had my Pioneer SX 1010 Receiver since 1976. I purchased it from Pacific Stereo in Berkley CA. I used my Gas Station attendant and Paper Boy money to purchase. I still have it. It is in immaculate condition. Everything seems to be working but the left Speaker channel goes in and out. But man they do light up cool looking. Take care.
I have an SX 950 with the same problem. Cleaning the volume control helped for a litlle while.
I learned so much from this video - many thanks.
Nice job with the explanation. Thanks for the video.
Sweet! I've got an SX-580 that I got in 1977 :) still works GREAT
Man, this is good stuff for newbies!
Going to check out that other Bulb protection video and then get in there on an old Denon, thanks for great practical video.
I have TOTALLY TOTALLY enjoy this tech video 👍👍👍👍
Interesting video! I've worked on old vacuum tube equipment, but this gives me more confidence to work on solid state on a limited basis.
Great video man! Thanks a lot!!
This is a cool video. It even had extra thrills when you tipped that acetone can over the receiver. ;-)
I've got a pioneer sx-1010 from 1974 I recently bought and now when I open it up, I can somewhat know what to look for as to if it has been serviced at all.
I want to restore it but it was hard to find in working order so a bit nervous about it being my first project. I'm going to attempt servicing some other equipment first, get by campfire badge before I attempt the 1010. You have great explanation skills and I learned a lot, especially the resistors 3 legs and how to get them right. I think one board at a time, slow and tedious, I'll get it right over time. Thank you for the video, subscriber for life my stereo geek friend!!
Thank you for the very useful video
I am a Marine Technician by trade I have my own business. I am trying to learn electronics . You my man kicked some ass on this video you worked your ass off to put this together I cant even imagine how many hours you put into it. From one tech to another very well done young man @
Great video! Thank you
I had this receiver!...I bought over 10 years ago...but when I got divorced, I guess my ex wife threw it away...sad..now I got a technics receiver with my '77 pioneer turntable...like your tutorial...great information.
Awesome stuff.
Thanks so much for this video...i recently got into vintage stereo equipment... don't know anything about repairs but hopefully I'll gain some knowledge fast enough cause am getting lots of stereo receivers and integrated amps that's not working 😅
Just had three of my units done. A Marantz 2240. Pioneer SX980 and Sansui G-5700. I still have a mint Pioneer SA-8100 Amp that needs to be done, but am unsure about the value in putting 500 bucks into that unit. In each of the above cases the guy handed me a huge bag of bits, just like what you have pictured on the opening scene to this video. They all sound great.
Many thanks! Well done.
thank you so much what a informative video i love pioneer 😁😁
I love ❤️ your videos sir so exciting professional person
Most enjoyable, thanks for that :)
Great job on the vid. I thought you did an awsome job explaining how the system works and explaining each different component in language people can understand. I wanted to comment on how to figure your hourly rate out to be fair to you. The most important thing is charging for each individual part and any material you use. What you pay for parts has little to do with what you charge for parts. If a part is has to be shipped and not something you can get locally adds value. You also have to figure in your time and cost for ordering, unpacking, counting, dividing and stocking not to forget the time it takes to do inventory. You may pay a buck, but when it is all said and done it is probably valued around 3.50 to 5.00. What's a guy making an hour working for a company that provides similar services? for example, if he were getting paid 35 an hour the shop is likely to charge110 to 175 an hour. depending on what that hour charged is paying for during that hour. There is over head like insurance, rent, equipment, power, to name a few. then you need to pay support like accounting, customer service, Etc and lets not forget about comebacks. Yep, the shit that had nothing to do with your service but you will never get the customer to believe otherwise.. These numbers are only guess-tamates . A person can not fairly charge same as shop rates when working from his home, after hours. He/She/Them or however they want to freaking identify,( I miss the good old days, when it was simple.) sure as hell can get more than an employee working for a company would get. The work being performed is personal and that alone makes it worth more. Hope this helps. Have a nice day people.
I have the SX 636 and should be able to follow along with your video. Great job!!!!
Yes, they're very similar!
i love the attention to the deltails,.,
Holy shit man. This is no joke. I wish I had someone around to do this with me.
Finally, not an old man with a soldering iron blubbering on about how good he is. Nice straight explanation with useful information. I'm no youth
Also be careful when replacing transistors as new replacements tend to be high speed and low capacitance which can make them oscillate at high frequencies. Use a scope to check. I do not believe in changing transistors unless they are bad as too many changes takes away from the vintage sound and quality of the unit.
¹¹¹¹¹¹¹1¹🎉❤❤❤❤❤❤🎉❤❤❤❤🎉🎉❤❤
Good job.
Thanks!
Thank so much for this video! Have you ever worked on an SX-770? Total novice but I’m trying to repair, and then maybe restore my dad’s 770. Tuner, Aux input work but Phono input is barely, and I do mean barely, audible when V is fully cranked. I checked the supply voltage to Head amp board and it is 13.2, I *believe* it’s supposed to be ~30v...
I checked voltage at +B1, +B2, “+12V” and IND at power supply board and measured the following:
+B1 45.8v
+B2 13.2v
“+12V” 12.5v
IND 20.8v
Does that low 13.2v reading point to any one particular e-Cap or transistor on the “power supply unit”?
Thanks in advance for any guidance you might be able to provide!
I would start with the electrolytic caps for sure, and then replace other components as necessary. However, you did say a restoration, so it wouldn't hurt to go beyond, by replacing ALL of the aging components. Cheers!
Thank you.
wow, that's bad work, glad you got it working. Seems it is pretty repairable. I had a broken C1345 transistor on my harman 330c and I could change it with a bit of help troubleshooting it (I am new to this) and I also have a PM620 that has leaky main caps (like real all over the board!) and as far as I can see, there is some damage to the transistors. Not sure if I ever get it working, buy I might well try to gain a little experience, or frustration, or maybe it works, who knows. haha good work.
Love the HK 330c receiver! It's my go to receiver after the Pioneer SX-650 which is a beauty too.
What’s your thoughts on early 80s Technics amps? Like a SU-V8X?
In your diagram you show the caps on the secondary winding/bridge diode going to the power amp to be connected in series... so they are DC blocks? Probably go to GND, right?
It's no good practice to bend the leads of the new components to keep them in place before soldering. If you ever have to remove one of those parts again, it's hard to desolder them and likely to damage the PCB tracks. Bending the leads up agein for cuttingthem also puts mechnaical stress on the PCB tracks.
The proper way to install new parts is to insert them into the PCB, cut the leads to length and thereafter tack-solder one lead while holding the part by hand. When the part is positioned straight and firm, all leads are soldered finally. By doing it like this, you get nice solder joints and also the ends of the leads are covered by solder.
Do you do repairs? I have a Marantz 3800 pre amp that has a phono input issue. One side is lower volume than the other. The other inputs are OK.
I have an SX737 I bought in 1976, took it out of storage after about 25 years cleaned it up a little and it still works good. I was wondering what is the average cost to have it restored, new caps, transistors, etc. and LED lighting. I may be able to do it myself, I was a mil-spec solderer, so I may have the ability. just looking for an average cost to have it done. Thanks
I have couple of the square 12” woofers they have 3” coils and actually get down. I can’t guarantee they will do quite rated but they definitely last 1/4 song
your video was very informative, however, i'm an amateur with electronics, schematics is very heavy to me indeed. i've got an Akai intergrated amp, but totally blown out of mind how to interpret it and located the issue. can you please assist? i can send you a pdf for review. much appreciated if you could help me out.
Audio hi I have a pioneer sx880 that seems to have a problem either a channel is going out or something else I have taken it to two different shops the first shop said was fixed but it's not the second shop said it can't be fixed. So I've at a stop is there anyone that could fix this problem ??
I currently got the rg100es and a studio client used it - now it turns on but there’s no sound. Any idea if I need to get check out
Deoxit d5 es aconsejable para los potenciometros de esos equipos??
Nice video,i am subscribed even from the first video i saw. I have a question relating Pioneer sx 626
1.i do not have speaker protection relay on sx 626,and it has the bub sound on start. Could it be possible to put some kind of protection relay?
2. I have like some hum or low noise on speakers regardless of the imput. It is constant low noise in the background regardless of the sound pot. I checked the dc output on the channels it has 10mv dc,it is accseptable. Is it possible that the problem is with the ground loop?
I have watched many of your videos you helped me alot. I rebulbed it,and cleaned the nobs. I have basic soldering skills.
You can try running a wire from the Gnd lug on the back of the receiver to the screw on a wall outlet. That will connect the chassis to earth ground. I had a receiver with a constant low hum that was not affected by the volume knob. I recapped the power board and got no results although some of the caps were out of their tolerance. I recapped the tone board and that helped reduce the hum quite a bit.
1. That is characteristic of the receiver. It has always done that since day one. I'm of the opinion it's likely more work than it's worth to add a protection relay to that receiver.
2. Likely a grounding issue somewhere, maybe due to a worn out cap or two. That's just a guess, though.
How do you clean the boards so well? Mine look all dusty etc.? Please help..
i JUST REPLACED THE FILTER CAPS ON A SANSUI 771 AND THE FUSE BLEW. PLEASE TELL ME IF THAT MEANS POWER SUPPLY PROBLEM AND WHATS MOST LIKELY THE PROBLEM IF ITS NOT THE POWER SUPPLY. THE VALUE OF THE OLD CAPS ARE 4600uF 50 VOLT AND THE NEW CAPS ARE 6800uF 63 Volt. I PUT THE OLD CAPS ON THE DIM BULB TO SEE AND THERE IS A SHORT. HIGH WATT THANKS FOR YOUR HIGH QUALITY VIDEOS!
Muito bom o vídeo,
Manda por e-mail esse mapa desse receiver PIONNEER sx 535
At ~ 7:10, the smoothing capacitor connections seem to be drawn incorrectly. The bridge rectifier converts the AC voltage to DC. As drawn, wouldn’t the capacitors block the resultant DC?
Just subscribed and have watched a few of your videos, I find they are very well done. I still have my original SX737 that my dad bought for me when I was a teenager and unfortunatley he recently passed away from Covid. I have electronics soldering experience as I repair pinball machines for a hobby. I would like to do a complete overhaul on my SX737. It typically works for about 1/2" hour then cuts out completely. If I wait a few days it then sometimes works again. Is there a complete list available of all the potential problematic transistors and capacitors that I could replace. Seems like a lot of additional time to track that all down in the maintenance manual if someone has already done this and also found suitable replacement alternatives.
Someone has made a list or two on audiokarma.org. Here's a video that I made on a Pioneer SX-737 that shows a repair that might solve your issue without restoration: czcams.com/video/kZf_U8oQ90k/video.html
@@AHFixIt Thank you very much for the information. I will start with your suggested replacement of the 2sc1451 and 2sa726 transistors.
I replaced those transistors but it did not fix the problem. However I have now replaced a bunch more resistors and capacitors and now it no longer cut's out. So far the protection circuit board and power supply board have been upgraded with new Caps, transistors and diodes. I am going to move on to the other boards. I really appreciate your videos and help. Keep up the great content.
@@GF-ok5yn m
Is that keyboard analog too
at minute 13:30 can you explain exactly how to do section 2 and 3? I didnt understand how exactly I'm supposed to test that. If you could draw a real lead example that would really help me out. My dad is trying to do this and we can't figure it out.
What was the receiver diesejl got back?
Digi key and mouser don't seem to offer many audio grade capacitors, mostly just general purpose, & apparently, they're not going to be able to get them anymore, have you been experiencing this also ?
Purchased that exact model on FB Marketplace today. Nice machine BUT for some unknown reason it plays every sources (phono/FM/Aux) in MONO. I see a "mono" button on the front, but I made sure it''s not pushed, and it does not solve the issue. Otherwise it plays fine, but that MONO thing is driving me crazy... Rings a bell? Any idea what the problem might be? LOVE your videos!
How much would you say are the parts cost ? Thank you.
Outstanding, do you do restorations for a fee?
can you get at the lamps from the back with out taking the face off
What’s your take on lowering bias pots to the lowest setting before replacing output transistors and setting bias from scratch when done? I’ve had instances where new outputs had much higher gain and the bias took off and the outputs shorted.
I don't see anything wrong with that.
Do you have a video that explains exactly what to be careful with, and the hazards to my life, while working on a receiver? I want to be a person that would work on my own receiver, but am afraid of elements in the receiver that could electrocute me. Please let me know.
The bridge rectifier/filter capacitors [aka power supply] produce DC for all circuits at different voltages. You have the secondary feeding the circuit boards direct. That is incorrect. The power supply does that. The secondary feeds the power supply which feeds the circuit boards
Thank you for this video. One small nit - you describe some emitter bypass caps as “power” just because they go to ground. This is not accurate- they are there to decrease the AC impedance of the emitter path to ground to set the AC gain for the audio. A better way to characterize the caps is whether they are filtering 120 Hz rectified AC or providing supply bypass. Those should be the low impedance power types. With all that said, you’ll be hard pressed to go wrong with a good quality Nichicon or Panasonic cap of any series.
How much does it usually cost $$$ to Restore Vintage Receivers? I'm in SoCal area and have quite a few Vintage Receivers (Marantz 2226, 2250, Pioneer SX 737, SX 450 and Sansui 771) I bought in the last 2 months alone.
Btw Your videos are very helpful! I have changed FM Bulb to LED from your tutorials.
I've seen them run anywhere from $75-$125 for the part kits (capacitors, transistors, etc.) + anywhere from $150-$250 in labor. In addition, add shipping both ways if you're sending it to someone to work on it.
Hi, I just found your channel. My SX434 needs some work. Where, in your opinion is the best site to download manuals and schematics for specific Pioneer models? Thank you.
www.hifiengine.com
Any others? These guys no longer accept new accounts.
I have a pioneer sx737 I'm the original owner. I'm not getting any sound out. I live in Arizona I could ship you the unit if you are interested in fixing it. What do you charge to work on these units
Интересно было бы сравнить емкость, esr и ток утечки старых и новых конденсаторов.
Not sure if you will see this or not but I would love your opinion on something. I have a sansui AU-7900 that i found in rough shape. I cleaned everything I could clean on it. It gets power and the power stays on. The main problem is the amplifier board Sansui F-2596 immediately blows two fuses (8A 250V) as soon as the power is turned on. I replaced the 220ohm fuse resistors. But the problem still remains. Do you think it could be the output or power transistors on the heatsink? Thanks for any advice. I just wondered if you had any ideas.
The outputs on the heatsink would be a great place to start. They're easy to remove and check.
@@AHFixIt that’s what everything has been leading me to. Thank you so much. Love your channel! I’m learning a ton!
I have a Pioneer SX-780 that just died. I've seen you check over one of these. Would you consider doing a full restoration on it?
Did you get your SX-780 fixed? I just did a restoration on my SX-650 which came out beautifully!
@@jpreza after watching some videos on the likely cause of death, it seems like one of the darlington power packs is the likely reason. i bought two and plan to solder them in. not super experienced at soldering but got some decent equipment and have practiced on an old circuit board. hope to get to it shortly
@@MB-en3do If you end up with extra knobs, let me know. I'm looking for a volume knob and a tape monitor knob. All the silver Pioneer control knobs are for the most part interchangeable.
You have explained everything very well . But the transistors you didnt show what leg on the transistors go where ? You didnt show any markings on the transistor to show what circuit it goes into. I am totally lost . I would think the trans would be marked on top for each leg but you did not show that. I know you dont read these replies but sure am confused
1:00:40 technically they do have kinda polarity. Some of them are still being marked so you know where is the outer plate (foil). it can be important for high frequency and high quality audio applications. czcams.com/video/OWXbdCz-AiY/video.html
Very true. The outer foil was often marked by a black line on the capacitor body. The newer capacitors made for PCB applications often have no markings to indicate this. I use a scope to find which is the outer foi, although there are purpose designed devices to do this. Here on You Tube Mr Carlsons Lab is a rich source of information on this and many other electronic related subjects.