A Used Motor Is The Best Solution for Engine failure.
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- čas přidán 14. 06. 2024
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Who else is here because of Alex and LSC?
Awesome job on the GT-R and the LS Porsche exhaust system. Literal works of art OJ!
Yes sir
thanks!
I peeped a red gtr in this video 👀
A wrecking yard engine is great. It has been tested and did a great job of powering the car to the scene of the wreck it was involved in.
In my limited experience: GM 3800 series and LS motors, Ford 4.6 modular have served me well for decades.
Yes.
3400, 3100, and the 2.2L Ecotech. I've had good experiences with them and good experiences with used engines as well.
Ford has excellent newer engines avail: 2.0L /2.3L /2.7L /3.5L /5.0L /6.2L /7.3L - all outstanding!
Wow a rare breed of people that aren't losers and actually like more than 1 brand of engine/car. Never thought I'd live to see this kind of comment lol
Mine as well. Over 220,000 miles and runs great.
This is why I love Pick-N-Pull. They write the mileage on the fender. And if you pick a car that was wrecked, that means the engine is probably not the reason the car was junked.
Remove the valve cover and look for sludge. Remove the oil pan and look for metal fragments. Remove the bearing caps and inspect. If that's all good, an inspection camera into the cylinders should be enough.
Most of the time when the motor is free of sludge the most the salvage motor will need is a head gasket to run okay, but it might be an oil burner.
If a 5.3 going into a Squarebody you can hone the cylinders and replace rings and bearings.
I'd never run a business on junkyard motors.
I don’t want to risk it and am too lazy to pull an engine at pick your parts. I would be the one to show up, get it 1/2 out and not have the right tool to finish 😂
Yes. I've had good luck with engines from LKQ or pulling them myself, and good luck with transmissions from pick and pull places.
I love you pick and pull salvage yards. Plus, you can warranty them as well and replace again only if needed
@mph5896 I believe an engine is still 800 dollors from them at least anyway. Just find a suburban for 1000-2000 and use it as a donor or just keep it in it.
@@bigmoney4661 u pull around me, engines are less than $200. Full service salvage yards, much more
As a tech that works at a Jaguar Land Rover specialist shop, I find it humorous how hes sitting on a 5.0 liter AJ V8. Ive yanked PLENTY of those out, in fact just had to remove a six cylinder version just this passed weekend for spinning rod bearings. That one had 3 inches of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan tho, so can't blame the engine, though even well taken care of examples can fail
Best preventive maintenance on any engine is regular intervals of high quality oil changes.
It helps but it doesn't always save you. These past 20y cars have used increasingly more plastic parts, also in critical places like radiator end tanks, water pumps, intake manifolds, valve covers.
If such a plastic part fails you often end up with bigger secondary problems, sometimes even complete engine failure...
(Prince engines in Mini's, Peugeot and small BMW' s are notorious.)
I put a Jasper remanufactured engine with a three year 100,000 mile warranty in my 1992 C4 Corvette with 268,000 miles on the original engine about five years ago. I am the original owner of the car. The car runs like new 32 years later. Great video OJ! You are super knowledgeable and have a very well thought out approach when diagnosing and recommending repair options. Keep up the great work. I am a big fan of your channel. I also am a fan of your collaboration videos with Alex from Legit street cars.🎉
When I worked at the Ford dealer, we used Jasper engines. They were great!
Thanks for watching and sharing
My Best friend had a 5.3 ls engine fail in a chevy suburban at 80k. He bought a remanufactured engine through Advanced Auto Parts and had it professionally installed. That engine lasted 1000 miles. He got another engine under warranty installed. It failed in 120 miles. The engine manufacturer gave him the run around about needing to exam the engine etc. Six months later they gave him another engine, but he had to pay to have it installed again. He was without his Suburban for over a year and finally got a good engine. Sold it. He had more in the engines and installation than the suburban was worth. So even getting an engine from a nationally known rebuilder is no guarantee.
3 failed LS engines in that short of a period... what the fuck was he doing to them? Lol. It's a 2 valve pushrod v8.
Advanced auto parts is not a reputable engine builder. It's a parts supplier. Big difference.
@@mattburns2968 they get their engines from a reputable nationwide engine rebuilder. My buddy was dealing with that company for warranty....not Advanced Auto parts.
@@pormansgoldpmg5493It might be counterintuitive but the last thing you want to do is purchase an engine from a large company like Jasper Engines. The reason is similar to the problem with buying produce. A farmer sells onions at 5 cents a pound to wholesalers and when its at the store they mark it up to 1.79 a pound but its just onions so who cares? but with engines you are buying 300 dollars in quick labor for a job than really requires 20 dedicated hours of labor not including machining costs. When you go to a good small shop there are no middlemen and wholesalers. So all of your money goes to 1st class engine build. 2000 labor plus 3000 in parts and maybe 1000 in machining and this is on the low end. You get what you pay for.
@@pormansgoldpmg5493
Was it Jasper ?
They've really gone down the toilet.
I disagree on being unable to predict problems in the future when doing partial rebuilds of high mileage German engines. That is because I have degrees in both mechanical engineering and astrology. For example, if an N20 4cyl develops rod knock while Jupiter transits to 7th house, I would confidently rebuild it since 7 is not divisible by 4 and especially if my customer is a Leo. I would, however, over tighten the head bolts by 10-15 degrees because I’m a Gemini early rising between 10-15 degrees. That way, I’m confident the repair would hold up.
this is hilarious
BRA VO
I stopped dealing with junkyard 20 years ago. All pirates and conmen now
I bet, it's the world we live in now.
I had a 4.7 2UZ-FE that was in bad shape in my 2003 Land Cruiser, the previous owner had overheated the engine badly. I found a used engine in a same year, Toyota Sequoia, with 140,000 miles that had been in a wreck. I scored the engine for $600. I installed it myself, so my cost out of pocket was pretty low all in. I have 15,000 miles on that engine now since I installed it. The used engine was, luckily, in nice shape. The problem with used engines, is you need a little luck on you side and find a good one. My Land Cruiser runs mint now.
Because it's a Toyota UZ engine less luck is needed.
On my 2003 Mini Cooper (W11 engine) with 165k miles, one of the plastic coolant tees broke and I lost all my coolant while driving. I was going to rebuild it but as the parts costs kept adding up, I looked into an LKQ engine. I found one with 90k fewer miles for a reasonable price. When it arrived, I removed the valve cover to assess the condition of the engine. It looked good (clean), so I replaced all the seals and gaskets (except head gasket) and installed it. I also replaced every hose, tee and component where coolant flows (except heater core) while the engine was out. It’s been over 12k miles and 2 years now running well. Junk yard engines are definitely the way to go, just do due diligence before installing it.
Many people believe the Coyote engine is nearly bulletproof, but that's a misconception. It's a sophisticated engine with a dual overhead cam design and independent variable timing, relying heavily on quality oil and proper pressure to function well. In its stock form, the Coyote is reliable, and even with minor modifications, it remains dependable.
However, watching CZcamsrs and influencers claim that achieving 1,000 rear-wheel horsepower (rwhp) with a Whipple supercharger, turbo, or other modifications is easy can be misleading. These individuals often receive parts for free or own the companies that supply them.
For regular enthusiasts, I wouldn't recommend pushing a Coyote engine beyond 650 rwhp, regardless of the power adder used, if you want to avoid issues. Although the price of the Coyote has decreased, the parts remain quite expensive.
Take it from me: my stock Gen 2 Coyote engine developed a rod knock at 730 rwhp. I replaced the bottom end with a Gen 3, which then suffered main bearing failure. Eventually, I decided to go for a built motor, which cost well over $20,000. After the time, labor and parts over the lifetime of the vehicle I could be driving a McLaren.
I decided to leave mine NA and focus more on quality bolt ons, good quality 5w30 synthetic oil and filter with 5k oil change intervals, and a lower temp t-stat and fan mapping. I’m in Texas and the summer here is absolutely brutal. My goal is to keep the engine heathy through proper heat management and a well thought out lubrication strategy based on my application. Just hit 150K on the odometer last week and still running strong👍
McLaren? Never a problem there.
Very common issue on many motors these days. All kinds of people want to make money selling you parts on a bottom end designed for 400 horses or on a 4 cylinder designed fpr 200 horses... slapping on turbos and extra boost. These games get expensive. Each failure makes the mechanic more money. Nobody loses but you
Hard to beat the newer gen 5.0L Coyote V8s. Leave em stock. Take care of em. Run quality fuel. You will see 350k mis.
Bro if you simply got a welder and made your own manifold/manifolds depending on if it was single or twin turbo you'd be able to push alot more power for cheaper that's what I'm doing and other people are. Welders are like $150-500 the hot parts you can scavenge and cut them into pie cuts or however you need them to fit when welded. You definitely went the high cost route maybe out of lack of knowledge I'd say.
Also....If your engine fails....all the oil cooler lines and the engine oil cooler must be replaced....in case metal shavings contaminated those things. If not a new engine will fail. So make sure your shop does that or u are asking for more issues.
I would add to your comment any part where oil flows, like a turbocharger(s), would have to be replaced in an engine failure.
Good advice
Good reminder!
Same applies to transmissions. The lines, auxiliary cooler and even the RADIATOR if it has an oil cooler inside, which it will most likely if it's a truck.
Hey, thanks for the sensible analysis of the problem with catastrophic engine failure.
Thanks for taking the time to create thoughtful content. Bold
My pleasure!
This is so accurate! Keep up the videos. The content is not only highly accurate coming from personal experience but great info for most people that don’t know better. 👏
Awesome, thank you!
This is why I was taught by my father a long time ago how to rebuild engines and basically take a car apart and put it back together, I'm trying to teach my son the same thing
Time is really the issue
@@concernedcitizen780 electronics and social media are the issue as well, it's hard to get these kids outside
Great video! The 4.6 SOHC Ford V8 that was in all the early 00's Mustangs and Crown Victoria's is essentially bullet proof and cheap. You can go to any junkyard in America and pull a good running unit for $300 or less.
I love the channel, and I'm a huge fan of you using your channel to educate the masses. I hope you continue being awesome and keep up the great content!
I appreciate that!
Just found this channel and it is refreshing, like a calm Jo Koy as your mechanic buddy. The content is practical, clear, and cool. Subscribing because it's not grossly exaggerated in tone, and no lame music beds or sound effects.
Awesome, thank you!
I had an a 6.0 lq4 engine in my '02 Silverado fail on me at 200,000 mi. I bought a used engine online and installed it myself and after a couple thousand miles it is still going good. I did replace a lot of the seals and did due diligence as well. It made it cheap enough to where it was still worth keeping the truck 👍
You are the man! I’ve been explaining just this to my customers!
Right on
Geez , your busy OJ , cars all over the shop , good to see an honest no bullshit helping the community , not trying to rob customers.lf l lived in the USA l'd go to FMU 👍👍👍
Thanks for the kind words!
Yes, the warranty is key, and make sure to look at all of the requirements because sometimes there are conditions, such as replacing the water pump, priming the oil pump before starting, etc.
Found you at LSC - great work OJ!!!
Wish I could have you do my Porsche 924S exhaust!
Excellent presentation and explanation.
Thank you kindly!
Solid tips OJ! Do you guys run sim tests on the junkyard engines? Like Dave’s Auto’s shop does? He seems to swear by that machine lol
Great informative video OJ! I see a lot of Euro cars on your racks 😊 looks like us Europeans making engines really complicated these days.
3.6 pentastar are solid after you fix the rocker issue
I have 366,530 miles on mine. Dont forget the oil filter housing.
I saw the same W12 listing!
Lets see how reliable those new engines running 0w8 oil are😂
Most people don't know to check the owners manual. Most new cars can run a little bit thicker oil.
I give em 60k for the ones that don't know what an oil change is lol
There’s a rav4 that runs 0w16 with 450k miles on the forums.
If the engine is designed for it it should be fine, specially in colder climates.
My car, a Lexus ct200h Prius3 1.8L driveline) it needs 0W20 or 5W30.
But now it's summer, temps are up so i'm running 10W40. I do lots of highway driving. It does fine. Engine now has 360kkm on the odometer. In late fall i'll swap back to 5W30 for those aweful winter coldstarts.
@@jfv65 you should stick to what factory states. "Never skip leg days"
Thanks
You’re welcome!
Same thing applied to modern central air systems. My first was a seer 3 that lasted 22 yrs. It was replaced (even though it still worked) with a seer 13 that lasted from 2011 until this week. 15,000 bucks today. They can’t mix and match anymore due to …….. the EPA. New ones are high pressure like GDI on a car with a turbo.
N55 Just have oil pressure problems. My engine just started knocking from factory. The car had about 120k miles on it and I’ve owned the E92 since 2022. Started giving me hell right after 117k.
A true Wizard!
OJ, curious on your experience with BMW B58 engines
I’ve had two “good” junkyard engines that were junk-a 5.3 LS and a 4.0 ford. Seller fought their warranty and the labor was tremendous.
I don’t trust any junk engines without seeing them run. Next time i’ll buy one from a wrecked but running vehicle only, if it’s a non-rebuildable block.
Marvellous volg, super.
We need more of these vlogs.
Thanks mate, for sharing this valuable information with us.
Is not a vlog
Unless it's a '22-'24 Toyota Tundra V6
Absolutely junk .. engineering defective.
I'd gladly use a "u pull it" engine as a replacement, especially as I get to choose the donor vehicle. And it's the cheapest option.
Failing that, I'd have a local machine shop rebuild a unit, which is the most expensive but best option. I got really burnt off of a McParts rebuild unit and won't go that route again. IMO, either cheap out and take your chances, or spend the $$ to get it properly rebuilt. The middle ground is all the negatives with few of the upsides.
This is why I bought a 2006 5.3 silverado, with 231k miles. Even if the engine blows up, I can get a used 5.3 for extremely cheap. And an older LS is one engine I feel totally fine buying used.
Common cars like that Sprinter, you should be able to get a decent junkyard engine from accidents. Warranty does not help a shop because they are not paying for the high amount of labor. I maintain my engine and give up on the car if the engine goes, I have a Chrysler 3.6 with potential rocker arm issues, that I might get fixed.
Your first issue was buying a Chrysler.
My father always gave me that advice. And he hasn't been in a garage since 2000. So even with the older stuff it's mostly easier just to swap it.
I'm dealing with one now. I got an 08 Rav4 with the 2grfe V6. I thought they were a good motor. This car was swapped once before and it must have injested something. Lost compression on cyl5. Took the valve cover off to find a gouged cam. Might have a bent valve. I'll probably swap it instead of dealing with trying to redo one head.
your dad sounds like a smart guy!
This literally happened to me. Spent almost 3000 to get my truck running and to find out the engine is blown. It wouldn't hold oil pressure anymore. And its a 4.3L Vortec V6. I just have to find a good block and swap all the parts off the old engine.
My prius engine replacement was 2700$ with a new water pump
I just spent 20k on a rb26 rebuild for it to last 3 dyno pulls. 😂
Torn between a Jasper remanufactured VQ35DE or a 50k mile vq from Japan. My engine is on the way out soon
It is very difficult in this time to find a good used engine and I believe it is the year 2024 period that no more good engines still exist. Before 10 years back was better…
Every car on the road has a used engine in it. Cars get wrecked and scrapped, thus used engine. Out of the 100's of used engines I have installed, I have only had 1 bad engine.
@OJ Do you have a good source for engines? Been thinking about finding s used/remanufactured one for my 87 Porsche 924S???
we use Metro auto recyclers a lot
GM Atlas 2.9, I have one in my 2007 colorado, 193k miles I feel it's quite bulletproof, but I'm just waiting for something to go wrong
Toyota 4 cylinder high mileage engines like to burn oil. The recommended repair is a brand new short block and slap on the old head without machining the head. The head often doesn't allow to be milled because it throws the timing off.
I had a Dodge Neon 2.0L which had a bad head gasket. A shop pull the head and replace the head gasket. It was still blowing out compression from the radiator. I removed the head only to discover a crack in the liner. I said f it, slapped the head on and sent it 😂. When it redlined it, pop, and the rod turned into dust..it is a powder forged rod so it explodes.
Ya but on the vehicle you were talking about on its 3rd junk yard engine. Is the warranty covering the labor to swap the engines?
yes a portion of our normal labor rate
Depends on the failure imo .. head gasket ? Put a gasket on , lifters failure ? Fix it .. broke Piston or bottom end issues ? Swap
Depends. Blown head gaskets cause a LOT of other damage. Lifter failures can cause piston to head interference if you didn't catch it early. Engines today are NOT the old Chevy 350 that you could throw together cheap.
^Yes. This is what I’m trying to warn customers about. So many oil pressure controlled sub functions that could be slightly out of spec do to the consequences of the head gasket failure, chancing the repair only to need more work 6 months down the road with a complete engine disassembly possible…The odds stack against you in these situations. Labor intensive jobs like head gaskets are better for our bottom line, but we just rather not risk it for the customer.
I understand both but I give my customer the option to do whichever route they want explaining the downsides of each .. it's not always better to do a swap is all
I'm saying .. some of us have customers that can't afford a 3k$ used engine + the labor to pull / install that used engine but they can afford a 1500$ head gasket job or lifter replacement , or a timing set etc etc
No, the problem with rebuilding an engine is people try to do it too quickly and make mistakes or overlook a problem. I've been buying in vehicles with blown engines and rebuilding them to sell on. As long as you are methodical and take time to properly inspect and test everything you won't run into trouble. Buying engines from wrecked vehicles is just pot luck, there could still be be plenty of potential issues with that engine that weren't obvious before the crash, and as a motor trader offering a warranty with a vehicle this can bite you in the butt big time!
I had an 06 hummer H3 with a 3.5 liter 5 cylinder engine at 4,800 miles it lost compression do to valve seals dealer replaced the whole head out of my pocket only to have it happen again just over a year later then again two years later along with a lot of other problems that engine was riddled with absolute garbage
Baseline economy Toyotas and Suzuki generally don't have such silly problems. At some point you have to decide if you want to be dealing with a fancy broken car all the time or drive a more modest car with few problems ever aside from general maintenance.
How do you go as a shop when you end up with junkyard engines which quickly fail? Obviously the warranty from the junkyard won’t cover all you labour swapping out the engine again?
I believe Mercedes has a better reputation than most (all?) of the Euro brands when it comes to engines. Not to say they are perfect - not by any means. But if you shop wisely it's not too hard to get one that isn't a disaster. I am on my third with good results. My first was an 04 E55 with the legendary M113K. It was the oldest, cheapest and highest mileage of all my Mercedes so there's that. But it was also the leakiest, worst oil consumer and generally most finicky (loved it, though - totaled it in 2022). My 07 S550 is an earlier M273 but by serial number is not supposed to be affected by the defective timing chain idler gear. And the M273 is actually a fantastic engine. A friend just got an 09 CLK550 on eBay and man is it fast compared to my S550 with the same engine. Then there is my 14 E63S with the also-legendary M157. For a while the internet said these were perfect but that didn't last. They are known for a host of issues. That said, mine is a 14 which has some updates compared to early 11-12 models. As a result it is running just fine at 104k. So the moral is, shop wisely - don't buy very early examples of engines - and you can do just fine with most Mercedes products imo. My brother in law bought a higher mileage 2017 GLS550 with a later M278 that supposedly has iron cylinder liners. That thing runs perfect at like 135k.
Try Jasper rebilld!!!!
What are your thoughts on the Mercedes M113 and M112?
The M113, particularly the 5L V8 is one of MB’s most reliable engine. Even in AMG supercharged form it’s bulletproof if you don’t mess with it and do regular maintenance. That 3 valve was the last really good engine without problems of any sort, just some valve cover leaks when the gaskets shrink.
@@racekar80 As great of an engine the m113 is, lets get something straight. It's a damn near 30 year old engine. Any m113 will need work and WILL eventually need to have the engine torn down.
It’s sad that a lot of people don’t realize that a basic rebuild is actually pretty easy to do. My father gets GM LM 4.8L literally for free and we turn them into turbo engines on the cheap and they are stone cold reliable (of course some have blown up as ya cint control what the end user does) Now some engines are a complete nightmare to work on so all aren’t as simple and robust as the LM.
My 2000 323i M52B25TU overheated and lost compression in 4cyls. Junkyard replacement engine is only $400-$500! Which I still can't afford.
Why are they so cheap?
Man… I have a rather typical story, kinda heartbreaking because it’s almost the Exact same situation however instead of a transmission. The guy paid $400 cash for one pulled out of a “working wreck” on fb marketplace… asks me to put it in for $400.
I told him no way, instead: will drain and fill the old trans several times with the right spec ATF, 3 gallons worth, and then try and get it rolling. It’s a Gen 9 Accord with the CVT, doing any thing other than this to them is far beyond economic at this point. The labor time in the getting a working unit in is already astronomical. I had to explain the risk of putting the junked one in snd how deep in the hole he’d be doing that.
Anyway, the flush is tomorrow. Wish me luck. 😅
Also, The VW EA113 is an astonishingly “bullet proof” engine when just fed a diet of the appropriate fluid. I mean that quite literally: I’ve yet to own a car that turned more dollars into horsepower than that insane turbo charged nonsense. It was fuckin’ awesome 😂
It seems that a 3.4l V6 of Toyota as head gasket problems
Strange - was not run hot ? To hurt the head gasket. Bcuz i have one in a tacoma all original never opened up with 330,000 miles.
with the new alusil cylinder bores there is no rebuilding (unless you sleeve the block) good used (crashed with under 50k) may be better value
There is now options for resurfacing aulsil and there are two great companies that offer it. Our customers have been satisfied with their pricing and we were impressed by the results.
@@FluidMotorUnion Excellent I wish I could find a machine shop near me that does it
I would take my car to Fluidany day over any dealership !!!!
Thanks!!
😊
New tundra v6 turbo engine has left the chat😮
The Honda D17 engines were very poorly designed and built.
Their open deck design and thin cylinder walls allowed the cylinders (especially 2 & 3) to deform over time, leading to the block warping.
The 2001-2005 Honda civic needs to be avoided, unless you happen to like the body style and plan on swapping the engine.
Oj your so handsome, it’s so hard to focus 😂
👍
What do I do? Well, I sure as hell don't buy a newer model European car, that's for sure.
Here's the problem with used (junkyard) engines - even if they fail within whatever warranty period the junkyard offers, the junkyard isn't assuming any third party liability for the labor costs to install-remove-install new the replacement engine(s).
Yep I’m putting a motor into a Kia Sportage 2009 my mom’s car she ran out of oil and honestly this is just a junkie vehicle
Let’s goooooooo
We’re going!!!
Comment for the algorithm
Well my 2.5l Ford escape engine is doing ok.... But this transmission is trash!
the engine themselves have become shit that the 2nd market can no longer be viable. manufacturers know this, that's why their engine now only have a small finite life
Absolutely true. But all of them can be fixed. But if you ain't working on it, it is no more Than an expensive ticking time bomb.
What the guy here says is allso true , but to be fair , one has to remove the engine , disassemble the whole thing.
All I'm hearing is:
"EPA is forcing all manufacturers to make a new, complicated, $20,000 engine every year. So we should all just swap in an LS/K/4.6/3800 and call it a day. Make our own market!"
Do you have anything to say about your employee who drunk drove and crashed one of your customers cars after hours, almost killing 2 young women in the passenger seats?
Is he still employed at your shop?
Have you mended and/or changed your companies policies on the care of your customers vehicles?
Unfortunately, we were victimized in this incident too, employee was swiftly discharged and we are actively working with law enforcement as part of a theft investigation. The officers advised us to not speak further on this until proceedings start but understand that we will see justice is served for the affected party’s and us.
@@FluidMotorUnion I appreciate your response, very well composed.
If people were not obsessed with latest and greatest, gadget and fear moggered on safety they would be better buying old (pre 2001) and repairing/restoring them.
Guaranteed the end product would be cheaper to fix, run and maintain in any 10 year period.
The problem is people are so indoctrinated and misled that they keep buying newer and newer cars that break sooner (when compared from new), takes longer and cost more to repair (when comparing like for like repairs) and far worse for the environment (comparing life cycles) and newer cars more expensive to run (comparing running costs, including depreciation, ability to be repaired and restored).
For example: Many 30 to 35 year old Honda engines are 300-400k miles still factory sealed. Just doing the rounds among the enthusiasts.
Many 2nd hand engine is likely to still give another 15 to 20 years of service especially the non Vtec ones as they are less likely to have been raced/abused.
Vtec engines can also last near limitless miles except for the abuse they are given with enthusiastic drivers who are vocal and novelty drivers (not enthusiasts) raising many misinformation and disinformation from their bad experiences ( unknowingly their own fault or unknowingly a victim of someone elses abused engine).
For Honda anyway the only reason 80s and 90s engines break sub 1M miles is due to user failure.
That is 100% people find unbelievable and any examples are lost without good records, accidents, owners not really advertising it and instrument clusters failing being replaced rather than fixed to maintain the mileage record.
Who pays for the labor to remove and replace the bad junkyard motor?
the warranty covers a portion of labor
Bullet proof? No such animal!
An original 426 HEMI... MAYBE! 💯🗽🇺🇸
Meh... many had tried to get the engine fixed and its a nightmare. Many tried to get a used enigne... and did not Last that long......
Thing is if you want , ypu realy want a car , you go get the car and a spare engine. If you ain't rebuilding it , then its not rebuilt.
Many engines have design faliures that will lead to catastrophic engine faliure. The more recent , the more likely.
Pull the engine apart , see what could possibly fail , fix that , rebuild the engine.
And done.
There are things like oilpumps simply not up to the task of working for past a few year. Some ford petrol engines love to Explode oil pumps. But that has to be replaced whit a billet one. Most of the time , brand new parts you get are junk from the beginning as they are not designed properly .
This video is a refreshing change from what I usually see on CZcams! Your content is so well-researched and thought-out, and it's evident that you put a lot of time and effort into creating it. I appreciate the practical tips and actionable advice you've provided, making the content not only entertaining but also useful. Your presentation style is engaging and relatable, making it easy for the audience to connect with you. I've learned so much from this video, and I'm excited to explore more of your content! ��
There is NO easy answer. You don't know how the used engine was treated. IF you can see the car it came out of, maybe you can tell it was a well cared for car that was totaled by being hit in the rear or side or rolled. Most of the time you can't hear it run. You don't know how well 'rebuilt' engines are done either. A lot are crap, even with a warranty PLUS the hoops you have to jump through to get it warranteed out if it is bad. In the 'old days' a lot of cars went to the junk yard when the engines became oil burners or failed or the transmissions quit. It was normal for cars to MAYBE make it to 100,000 miles and then get scrapped. And those were simple engines. Used engines were a couple hundred bucks then and they were likely junk too. I know as I used to go the used route 30+ years ago. If it ran well, it was more often then not an oil burner. Bought a used 350 Chevy that was pretty clean on the outside but found it gunky inside when I pulled the valve covers. It ran OK on the back of my truck. Was going to do a "Krylon Rebuild" on it but after hot tanking, the block was found with a crack. Lost my $ on that one. Did the base 'rebuild' (rings, bearings and gaskets) back then too. Modern engines have little margin for rebuilding. New engines cost too much. BUT say your car WAS worth $9000 and needs an engine. It really hurts to send the car to the junk yard. Big hit to the bank account. Do you chance a used engine? Best thing is to buy a known good brand car with a known good engine and MAINTAIN IT. No guarantees but you are better off. Skip the foreign luxury crap unless you are buying new and plan to keep it less than five years. Do NOT keep them as the costs to repair will eat you alive. There is NO such thing as a CHEAP used BMW or Mercedes.
Land Rover (just like Ford) circled the problem for you... it's in the name. Lol
I dont trust anything these days. I'd rather take it to a machine shop. Warranties are almost not worth dealing with. Like trying to deal with home warranty companies.
Also depends on the machine shop as well as what the engine is. Most modern engines are throw away.
@hotpuppy1 true on that lol. Not many good ones in my area.
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Thanks for that!
I can't make it through the video. I came here to Agree with the title. And give examples of my own experience to back it up. But this guy say, how could anyone No what is bulletproof? As if No one knows what he knows. But then Is installed an engine without checking at first for issues, blaming it on someone else. My advice, do the math, Value of your With the mileage it has - cost of repair. How much more could you get for it if you put a junkyard motor in it and at least ran. You don't.
Put a brand new warranty motor unless it is hi end Excellent condition Vehicle. Why? For one your not going to keep it for ever. And a new $5,000 motor with install, makes your medium condition 15-20,000 car, worth ...15-20,000 dollars.
Never go to a shop that can not rebuild you engine. Modern engines are not complicated. Mechanics has not changed in 30 years. Just because you had an extra cam or two does not make it more complicated every modern engine is modular You have metal in the oil rebuilding the engine. If it’s a turbo charged dungeon, make sure you rebuild the turbo chargers. I don’t know how this is complicated. Best engines to rebuild that are damned your bulletproof Chrysler small blocks LA.
Worst engines to work on that everything breaks on and fails the most anything from Kia and Hyundai .
The main issue- cost with labor and all the affected and necessary parts, especially if the engine has hydraulic variable camshaft control and has related damage, will exceed other options, and even in some cases the cost of a reman from the dealer. If you’re paying all that money the customer will want the peace of mind that comes with a supplier backed guarantee. This is the main reason so few rebuild.
5.4 3valve most dependable longest lasting hardest hitting engine ever produced. Makes LS ppushpop engines look like a pile of puke
People complain about repairs while voting for eco-clam-downs that squeeze engines towards failure.
Jasper has gone downhill big time in the last 15 years. Very hit or miss.
21 minutes for : you can buy a junkyard engine buy only if It comes with warranty. Thanks me later
Thanks for watching
Cheap solution! Don't buy a car newer then 1995.
I am sure you are right, but buying a used engine can also be a bad decision? a friend of mine did buy a junk engine and only problems. Which would be the best decision? I am not sure, always preferred to get my engines completely rebuilt.
I rebuild 2 Alfa engines, a 1965 Ford Mustang, a 1956 Cadilac sedan de ville, a 1987 Corvette, and a 1965 Corvette. ( Bolt and Nut restoration) Absolutely no issues, because I do have them take all the engines apart and send them to the machine shop then I have them replace basically all parts, minus the cams, and crank unless damaged, but maybe check and re-balanced. Am I just lucky? My Mechanic said if I need to repair the Engine from any of my Merc, to buy a junk engine. I am not comfortable with that myself.
Respect 🫡
Land Rover may have been the problem from just name. Thanks for the information man. I enjoy the content. Best of luck 🤞
Thanks!