Thank you ! New to Tamiya enamel and the 1:1 ratio worked absolutely perfectly out of my Iwata Neo airbrush... MIGHT possibly need to thin a tiny bit more to spray from the H&S Evolution 24 with its smaller needle. Pressure on 20 like you said perfect and distance as suggested perfect. Very feint coverage (needing those multiple passes as demonstrated) which makes for beautiful finished product !
Dude I am just blown away by the way you are just so great at teaching and generous with your knowledge of what works and how to make it work out for the masses. You are very awesome for your content and I would go as far to say one of the best for making it look so much more fun to advance in the hobby. Keep making it look so easy gonna start calling you Barbatos Ross
Wow, thank you for the kind words. I actually did paintings with the Bob Ross method many years ago. I'll try to remember and show one in an upcoming video. Thank you for watching, it's been a great year testing these for you guys.
@@barbatosrex9473 hi i just bought the gold and sliver to try. after watching your video i got some qns😂 1 ) all those diff thinner in your video just use the same ratio of 1 : 1 , 0.3/0.5 nozzle also same ratio? 2) that fast dry where you spray air on the part wont like make the thinned paint move around 3) you say wont have dry needle tip if i just leave it and come back like 5-10mins for 2nd layer etc 4) if i dont have the primer, will white/black paint work well as base? 5) possible to pre-thinned in bottle then just use it directly in future? 6) for brushing; any brush will do? also dont need to even thin and just apply it directly on the part? 7) brush the whole part 1 shot in one direction then use cross layer to cover up brush mark? sry for spamming so many qn cos totally new with enamel paint🤣
I used testors almost exclusively for the first 30 years of modelling. Started with no paint at all in 1969. I was getting frustrated because I was seven but my dad came home from work at Grumman aerospace and taught me, in that single afternoon, how to be Patient. What an important lesson. Still building at 60. First car I can remember was a richard petty Nascar. Switched to drag raving for 25 years now endurance and F1 are my favorite builds. I Never build military models, even the ones my dad contributed to, like F 14s and E2c Hawkeyes, as well as A6 intruders, bir I've collected the kits. I will build the lunar excursion models as that was a peaceful endeavor
It's always dad, I started building in, my pre teens because of my dad. He was a spray painter. So I was always around paints and spraying. I remember the giant spray booths and ovens he'd bake everything in. I had him paint my die cast cars for me too. Great memories. I'm 57 now
@@barbatosrex9473 my dad used to bring home all sorts of things from Grumman he should’ve forbade me from touching them. He also brought home all kinds of adhesives and epoxy’s that were literally space age. That Mylar covered blanket shit on the lunar module, the gold stuff. The tape too. It has a trade name I can’t think of it now.
I had no clue Tamiya had enamel paints! After the Rustoleum buy out, I'm done with Testors. If I get the urge to go enamel - I'll be reaching out to Poland! Thanks Robert!
For anyone that wants to know because I did, these enamel paints also stick well on clear topcoats as primer. Specifically the premium water based topcoats from Mr Hobby, I tested them on plastic spoons and they are not coming off.
Greetings from Taiwan, a neat little trick is using zippo for clearing and wiping off excess panel lining/washes, as the x20 dry quite slow and tends to damage plastics. Overall I love the tamiya enamels for small area, weathering, or washes
Lighter fluid is Naphta. Used also to thin enamels. Sometimes labled as tractor paint thinner. You can slop it on thick and it won't run. Adds body to the paint. It prevents runs and allows clears to go down crystal clear, no fogging. There is also enamel hardener which speeds drying and increases durability. Especially in the silvers that never seem to dry or stay soft.
Totalmente de acuerdo contigo; hace unos meses compré en línea por error algunas enamel en vez de acrílicas, es lo único que puedo criticarle a tamiya porque la nomenclatura es la misma "xf..", pero la calidad de estas enamel es sobresaliente tanto en aerógrafo como con pincel, que es por lo que suelen destacar las enamel. Las rebajo perfectamente con el mismo thinner que uso para las "acrílicas" de model hobby y tamiya, un equivalente al leveling thinner pero de sherwin williams que consigo localmente a precios ridículos. Un error afortunado porque ahora las tendré junto a las acrílicas con la seguridad que son pinturas magníficas. Gracias por el video.
I use mr.color leveling thinner for all Enamel paints have been doing that for years it's the best dry squicker I don't use nothing but Mr.color leveling thinner
Thanks for the reviews guys. I've heard nothing but good things about it and I think it time to step up my game. If I can find the time that is lol. I keep messing up my Ferrari 189 body 😡. Its been years and I'm definitely out of practice lol. Awesome channel btw
@@barbatosrex9473 I wish I could get it by the gallon i have to get 12 of the 600 ml Bottles And the rapid thinner also I have to order in big Quantities I go through a lot of products I use this for a lot of my paint to thinn ..are you on Facebook my favorite varnish is vms HD matt its hands down the best I have ever used I use a lot from vms you need to get ahold of them the owner his name is Chris..
In my model train club we have one member who doesn't airbrush. He brush paints & his painting looks as good as airbrushing. He thins his brush paints (never revealed his formula), but says relies on a lot of patience. Thinning seems to allow the paint to settle flatter. I read about this technique long ago a auto modeling magazine.
one thing i,ve noticed about the Tamiya TS and AS spray can paints if decanted from the "rattle can" and used through an airbrush is that they,re very easy to use and very "forgiving" of any errors. i,ve got a pretty large shipment of the enamels on it,s way from overseas and i,m sure they,ll behave the same way. i,m sure they can be used over an undercoat of lacquer-based primer with no ill effects. i mix my own undercoat for aircraft using a 1:1 mix of Tamiya TS-27 Matte White and TS-17 Gloss Aluminum and it comes out as an opaque light silver-grey with excellent covering properties and just the right shade,not too light or too dark. old rule-of-thumb is that it,s always best to use an undercoat of white for brighter colors such as red,yellow and orange.
I just want you to know that I leave your vids playing in the background while I build my car kits... Like a grandma and The Young and the Restless on a random TV lol. I didn't know Tamiya made enamel paints...kinda mad we don't have them here because I brush paint and I just love enamels.
@@barbatosrex9473 I just threw myself back into scale building a few months ago using the stuff I've had since I was a young teen. So that's Testors lol. I had NO idea all these paints existed. I also don't have the room you quite do...yet. I'll Google them. There's a small hobby shop in Magnolia NJ, AAA Hobbies, I like to patronize and didn't notice many choices for enamels. Revell/Humbrol and Testors seemed to be it. I mistakenly grabbed a bottle of Tamiya lacquer and I don't like it but flat back is hard to find.
Thats one of the wery good things about lacquer thinners are that they thin tree types of hobby paint. Enamels, Alcohol based and of course laqcuers. You can not go wrong with Tamiya's laqcuer thinner retarder type works great with every solvent paint from Mr hobby, Tamiya, Testors, Humbrol etc. The retarder gives you such nice resaults and it works just as good with alcohol based as it does with laqcuer paint witch it is intended for.
There is a dive shop here in Halifax NS that also has a bunch of model railroad and cat stuff. They carry Tamiya paints there. Really nice stuff! Thanks for another great video.
Great review as always. i've been hand brushing these Tamiya enamel paints for a while now. and i can vouch for the results that you came up in this video. Iit works great for overcoat (or overbrush in my case if that;s make sense) over a lacquer painted parts that i've air brushed (i used mr color ones). and it works well with lacquer top coat on top of that too (you know, to seal the paints and decals). so i used these tamiya paints mainly for detailing and panel lining gunpla piece. actually i have no idea these tamiya paints works well with airbrush too as i am too afraid to ruin my airbrush if i used this. i find these paints cure almost like "rubbery" thing when i leave some small residue in parts or hand brush that i have (i hope that makes sense). but its great to know you can use pretty much use ALL of the thinners available to clean this paint. thank you for that i learned a lot ps: i've been watching your reviews and i find that you have a lot of that gunpla part you use for testing lol ps2: i LOVE the gunmetal color in this paint too! :D
Looks great! I have been back into modeling for only 6 months. These videos are great for learning about air brushing and the different paints. I haven’t seen these enamels in Canada yet, but I haven’t done a search for them yet. Thanks again for sharing Rex!
Thanks for the knowledge share, excellent video!! The results are quite impressive! I'm about to brush paint a small badge on a fishing reel that is currently golden (white plastic painted gold), with X-18 (Semi-gloss black) and I am wondering if I can brush paint directly overthe current gold paint or if I should apply any type of primer first or, at least, run a bit of fine sand paper over it? I can't remove the badge from the reel so I can't easily spray it (which is what i woiuld have preferred). Thanks in advance for the advice.
Super-Hobby is my favorite hobby supplier, affordable, good and fast shipping. I like the Pactra Acrylic paint they sell, lots of colours and only 1.20 per bottle and works great! Have you already tried those?
Thanks for another great demo! Really impressed with how smooth the flats turned out. Kinda disappointed in that X-15 though, been looking for a nice lime but they always end up too neon yellow looking.
Just the video I needed desperately! Thanks a lot! I was kinda afraid of using enamels but now everything is clear for me. Thanks a lot for the information, a like and subscription from me. Regards!
Hello. I love your channel. You are doing a great service for modelers all over the world. I build styrene models but my passion are resin garage kits. Not asking you to get into resin kits but would you consider doing some paint tests on blocks of resin? I build anime character models and have been out of the hobby for quite a while. Also, there are a significant amount of garage kits made of vinyl. Some anime characters but a LOT of Kaiju or space monsters like Godzilla that are made of either resin or vinyl. Each have their challenges when paint hits material that is not styrene. Did you know that vinyl and enamel paint are incompatible? The paint remains sticky. Only acrylics and lacquers are compatible with vinyl.
I do modeling and I airbrush fine art. You might want to try Golden's High Flow Acrylics. Golden invented acrylic paint and their High Flow Acrylics were designed for airbrushing. Also as a nice side note Golden is a employee owned business in New York.
The whole point of this video is to introduce another "ENAMEL" paint for those who have no problem working with a TOUGHER paint. Many of us do not like acrylics for everything & actually like enamel paint.
@@danielbritton8588 I have never tried spraying enamel paints but as I have heard they spray like laqcuers and alcohol based but smells worse and dries slower.
If using enamel paint, then panel lining on top, I often find I can’t clean the panel lines as it would rub off the base enamel layer~ should I be using a lacquer clear coat or enamel clear coat before panel lining? Or must I use true acrylic for panel lining? I tend to find acrylic paints don’t jump out as well as lacquer or enamel
Hi, Barbatos. Thanx for the great video. I have 2 questions actually. First, when you airbrush the clear paint, do you also thin it or just use it straight from the jar? Second, do you also thin the paint when brushing?
I don`t use an airbrush, but I enjoyed how you used those Tamiya paints and how they came out. It was a great help to me. I have used tamiya paints both spray and bottle paints for many years. I think they are great paints to use. Again thanks for the seminar on how to correctly use the paints. What kind of spray booth is that that you were using? Is it pretty expensive? Again thanks for taking the time to do this.
I recently posted a video on my spray booth. It's a dual fan version which is about $150 but there's a singles fan version that cost a bit less. Check out my video here including links in the description czcams.com/video/WYagImp0srg/video.html
Interesting video, thanks for this comparison. I really like the X15 from the jar, would be awesome for a future VIPcar project. But it looks like it ain't easy getting that exact colour once airbrushed. Thanks again and well done 👍
Barbatos have you ever tested Vallejos solvent based paint, its called liquid gold and they can be thinned with leveling thinner, laqcuer thinner and x20a. The hole lineup is suppose to be better than the regular vallejo gold and metallic paints since they are solvent based.
Warning: the problem with enamels is unless you have a food dehydrator (like Barbatos Rex) it will take a long, long time for the paint to dry (maybe a few days or longer). This is one of the reasons why modelers went to acrylics and lacquers for the fast drying time.
Can i hand brush tamiya enamel 1:1 enamel paint and thinner without a respirator, in a room with windows open? Would it be safe? I heard the fumes can be toxic, can i also apply it without a primer?
Hi, Barbatos. Thanks for the video. I want to ask, how long do I wait for the layer one of the Tamiya Enamel to dry, before I hand paint the 2nd coat? Thanks.
another old tried-and-true Rule Of Thumb is that lacquers are the strongest paints with the harshest solvents.....next come oil based or lacquer-based enamels and finally water based acrylics such as Tamiya or the water/latex based Gunze-Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Colors. you can safely apply apply acrylics over lacquers or enamels but NOT the other way around....!
What about painting die-cast metal model cars? That's what I deal with exclusively! Do you have any tips and suggestions for that? Much appreciated thank you Robert.
Someone must have called you out for mispronouncing aluminum. 😂😂😂 Keep up the good reviews, Sir. You're a God Send for the Scale modeling community. 💯💯
Tamiya enamels have been around forever. I'm surprised that you've never tested it before. Still, since I don't use enamels much at all this was a very helpful test to see. Might try them out more thoroughly. On a car maybe. Why do you think enamels just don't get much use compared to acrylics or lacquers? From what I can tell it's the same here in Asia.
I'd say the requirement to use a toxic thinner. People are less willing to just flush stuff down the drain as they used to be, so you end up with soaked rags or a bottle of filthy thinner. I know acrylics aren't necessarily non toxic, but being water soluble, you can feel less scummy about washing them down the sink.
Looks like u missed the purple 🙂 The enemal is widely used for reverse wash, I think if you thin it with leveling thinner, you cannot do the reverse wash and it cannot be wash away with X20
@@statoilbensin2190 You spray lacquer paint to a part and let dry. Then you spray the enemal on top and let dry. Use enemal thinner or lighter fluid you can wash out any of the enemal paint on top layer and show the underneath lacquer color.
Quest - for that lime/fluorescent green, did you ever test the effects when/if brushed-on, (and how many coats) in terms of coverage and color matching (as shown on the bottle/cap)? Nice paint, would you recommend it over the testors bottles? (B-T-W Thanks for the test/evaluation of the various thinners. Would definitely use the “box store” type thinner, and use the savings for other hobby items).
AK interactive metal colors works terrible with a brush for me, so I bought some revell enamel, In a few days I will gona test it, but is seems very diferent, the enamel from revell does not show a two liquid phases, in the "AK interactive" they used a solvent, when you shake the bottle to homogenize the paint and touch the solution with the brush the sparkles dont stick to the brush, and you get more solvent than sparkles, so I am not recomend it by my experience, AK interactive metallic only works with an airbrush.
Interesting to see these Tamiya offerings vs Testors. I'm guessing the X-?? name is universal, as the Acrylic and Enamel offerings from Tamiya are both labeled the same. Seems T800?? is the 10ml gloss enamels T810?? is the 23ml gloss acrylic T815?? is the 10ml gloss acrylic Another awesome share, thanks :)
What do you use to thin X-31? I suggest trying X-12 gold leaf and try it with tamiya enamel thinner, it doesn't work & will make the paint coagulate instead I notice some of paint oil(seperators?) Are different on these enamels, if you leave it for few days, you come up with clear colored oils, where as gold leaf & titanium gold seem to be green instead Tldr, i can't thin tamiya enamel gold leaf & tamiya enamel titanium gold with tamiya enamel thinner, does this happen to you?
Thanks for the reply, then its probably on metallics gloss paint i'll use levelling in case i need to thin it, though that make it can't be used for washings/panel lining Just a few warning then, don't pre thin gloss metallics with tamiya enamel thinner, it will damage the paint particles Or it might be just my bottle
if you thin these with a lacquer thinner, can i still remove the paint with lighter fluid or their x20 thinner? planning on doing some reverse washing for the first time.
If you don't mind the smell, the lacquers are my go to choice. Bigger jars too. But they both spray and brush great. Might come down to if you can find them. Here in the US the Tamiya Lacquers came out this week. Finally we get them here. Enamels by Tamiya are never going to be released here I understand.
Great helpful test as ever. I love your work and have seen all of your tests. It saves me a lot of money and issues. Thanks for that. Maybe you can try a test of Zero Paints and there 2K Clear Coat. I've heard these are awesome paints for cars. But here in Germany very hard to get it. Greetings.
Does Tamiya make the full range of colors similar to their acrylics? I am experimenting too with paints and thinking of converting to enamels. Thanks for sharing
I find that they dry real nice when brushing small parts with them. They are also more durable than acrylics. The gloss colors have more of a shine than most other paints and they don't smell anywhere near as bad as lacquers do. They don't need to be thinned when brushing them either.
the advantage to doing detail work on top of lacquer in enamel thinned with white spirits ( i use naphtha) not lacquer thinner, is that you can be a bit sloppy with the application and then once it sets up some you can come back and wipe away the overspray or strokes with white spirits which include butane like in zippo fluid. basically u can save a bunch of masking time where applicable. lacquer thinner would of course reactivate any lacquer base coat. on acrylic ur fine with the various thinners. i avoid the heck out of mineral spirits as it make the styrene brittle as all get out, particularly with Bandai plastic.
Not yet. But I've never had trouble with Stynylrez but that said, I always seem to have a problem when spraying enamels over just about anything other than it's own primer or just plastic. I have a friend who never uses primer on anything and his kits look super professional so there's that
when you put the parts/spoons in the dehydrator does it do anything to the paint? like make it harder and more resistant than just air drying or it just to speed up the drying process?
I haven't given that a thought as I use it to speed up drying but maybe you're on to something, it might actually be making it tougher. I will test that theory and do an updated video on the dehydrator
I've used metallic colors from both Testors and Tamiya enamels and they never seem to dry to a hard durable finish (I had no issues with flat enamels drying to a hard finish). Have you had the same problem with metallic enamels?
it would be pretty interesting to see a durability test for all the paint types from cheap acrylic to enamel
Thank you ! New to Tamiya enamel and the 1:1 ratio worked absolutely perfectly out of my Iwata Neo airbrush... MIGHT possibly need to thin a tiny bit more to spray from the H&S Evolution 24 with its smaller needle. Pressure on 20 like you said perfect and distance as suggested perfect. Very feint coverage (needing those multiple passes as demonstrated) which makes for beautiful finished product !
That's great Kevin, these are awesome paints, enamels are the forgotten paints of the hobby world. I have my own line of enamels too
Dude I am just blown away by the way you are just so great at teaching and generous with your knowledge of what works and how to make it work out for the masses. You are very awesome for your content and I would go as far to say one of the best for making it look so much more fun to advance in the hobby. Keep making it look so easy gonna start calling you Barbatos Ross
Wow, thank you for the kind words. I actually did paintings with the Bob Ross method many years ago. I'll try to remember and show one in an upcoming video. Thank you for watching, it's been a great year testing these for you guys.
@@barbatosrex9473 hi i just bought the gold and sliver to try. after watching your video i got some qns😂
1 ) all those diff thinner in your video just use the same ratio of 1 : 1 , 0.3/0.5 nozzle also same ratio?
2) that fast dry where you spray air on the part wont like make the thinned paint move around
3) you say wont have dry needle tip if i just leave it and come back like 5-10mins for 2nd layer etc
4) if i dont have the primer, will white/black paint work well as base?
5) possible to pre-thinned in bottle then just use it directly in future?
6) for brushing; any brush will do? also dont need to even thin and just apply it directly on the part?
7) brush the whole part 1 shot in one direction then use cross layer to cover up brush mark?
sry for spamming so many qn cos totally new with enamel paint🤣
I used testors almost exclusively for the first 30 years of modelling. Started with no paint at all in 1969. I was getting frustrated because I was seven but my dad came home from work at Grumman aerospace and taught me, in that single afternoon, how to be Patient. What an important lesson.
Still building at 60. First car I can remember was a richard petty Nascar.
Switched to drag raving for 25 years now endurance and F1 are my favorite builds. I Never build military models, even the ones my dad contributed to, like F 14s and E2c Hawkeyes, as well as A6 intruders, bir I've collected the kits. I will build the lunar excursion models as that was a peaceful endeavor
It's always dad, I started building in, my pre teens because of my dad. He was a spray painter. So I was always around paints and spraying. I remember the giant spray booths and ovens he'd bake everything in. I had him paint my die cast cars for me too. Great memories. I'm 57 now
@@barbatosrex9473 my dad used to bring home all sorts of things from Grumman he should’ve forbade me from touching them. He also brought home all kinds of adhesives and epoxy’s that were literally space age. That Mylar covered blanket shit on the lunar module, the gold stuff. The tape too. It has a trade name I can’t think of it now.
I had no clue Tamiya had enamel paints! After the Rustoleum buy out, I'm done with Testors. If I get the urge to go enamel - I'll be reaching out to Poland! Thanks Robert!
For anyone that wants to know because I did, these enamel paints also stick well on clear topcoats as primer. Specifically the premium water based topcoats from Mr Hobby, I tested them on plastic spoons and they are not coming off.
Greetings from Taiwan, a neat little trick is using zippo for clearing and wiping off excess panel lining/washes, as the x20 dry quite slow and tends to damage plastics. Overall I love the tamiya enamels for small area, weathering, or washes
II happens to have that on my bench too, for Tamiya Panel Lining Liquid. I wish I would have thought of that for the video. Thanks for the tip 👍
Lighter fluid is Naphta. Used also to thin enamels. Sometimes labled as tractor paint thinner. You can slop it on thick and it won't run. Adds body to the paint. It prevents runs and allows clears to go down crystal clear, no fogging. There is also enamel hardener which speeds drying and increases durability. Especially in the silvers that never seem to dry or stay soft.
I would like to see a video on how to maintain and clean a airbrush in depth, especially after using enamels
Totalmente de acuerdo contigo; hace unos meses compré en línea por error algunas enamel en vez de acrílicas, es lo único que puedo criticarle a tamiya porque la nomenclatura es la misma "xf..", pero la calidad de estas enamel es sobresaliente tanto en aerógrafo como con pincel, que es por lo que suelen destacar las enamel. Las rebajo perfectamente con el mismo thinner que uso para las "acrílicas" de model hobby y tamiya, un equivalente al leveling thinner pero de sherwin williams que consigo localmente a precios ridículos. Un error afortunado porque ahora las tendré junto a las acrílicas con la seguridad que son pinturas magníficas. Gracias por el video.
I use mr.color leveling thinner for all Enamel paints have been doing that for years it's the best dry squicker I don't use nothing but Mr.color leveling thinner
It really is the best. I love the stuff. I keep 2 bottles at all times on my shelf
Thanks for the reviews guys. I've heard nothing but good things about it and I think it time to step up my game. If I can find the time that is lol. I keep messing up my Ferrari 189 body 😡. Its been years and I'm definitely out of practice lol. Awesome channel btw
@@barbatosrex9473 I wish I could get it by the gallon i have to get 12 of the 600 ml Bottles And the rapid thinner also I have to order in big Quantities I go through a lot of products I use this for a lot of my paint to thinn ..are you on Facebook my favorite varnish is vms HD matt its hands down the best I have ever used I use a lot from vms you need to get ahold of them the owner his name is Chris..
You can use mr hobby levelling thinner for tamiya enamels?
@@somechinesedude5466 yes
In my model train club we have one member who doesn't airbrush. He brush paints & his painting looks as good as airbrushing. He thins his brush paints (never revealed his formula), but says relies on a lot of patience. Thinning seems to allow the paint to settle flatter. I read about this technique long ago a auto modeling magazine.
Zup, I guess you were lucky, because I ordered like two months ago, and it scheduled to arrive by December…wow! I just hope it gets here.
one thing i,ve noticed about the Tamiya TS and AS spray can paints if decanted from the "rattle can" and used through an airbrush is that they,re very easy to use and very "forgiving" of any errors. i,ve got a pretty large shipment of the enamels on it,s way from overseas and i,m sure they,ll behave the same way. i,m sure they can be used over an undercoat of lacquer-based primer with no ill effects. i mix my own undercoat for aircraft using a 1:1 mix of Tamiya TS-27 Matte White and TS-17 Gloss Aluminum and it comes out as an opaque light silver-grey with excellent covering properties and just the right shade,not too light or too dark. old rule-of-thumb is that it,s always best to use an undercoat of white for brighter colors such as red,yellow and orange.
Wanna see what type of paint can be used on gshock resin band. And some live application whether it would not crack on application..
Those enamel paints go great with cheap hardware store lacquer thinner. I buy the gallon size.
I am just starting to paint my gundams and watching almost all your videos and i really wanna say that i wish you were my dad lol.
@Barbatos Rex man I love your avatar didn't think anyone beside me know what that is. good picture.
I just want you to know that I leave your vids playing in the background while I build my car kits... Like a grandma and The Young and the Restless on a random TV lol.
I didn't know Tamiya made enamel paints...kinda mad we don't have them here because I brush paint and I just love enamels.
Enamels are great. Have you seen or tried my enamels? My Mecha Empire paints? I chose enamels because you can brush or airbrush them.
@@barbatosrex9473 I just threw myself back into scale building a few months ago using the stuff I've had since I was a young teen. So that's Testors lol. I had NO idea all these paints existed. I also don't have the room you quite do...yet.
I'll Google them. There's a small hobby shop in Magnolia NJ, AAA Hobbies, I like to patronize and didn't notice many choices for enamels. Revell/Humbrol and Testors seemed to be it. I mistakenly grabbed a bottle of Tamiya lacquer and I don't like it but flat back is hard to find.
Thats one of the wery good things about lacquer thinners are that they thin tree types of hobby paint. Enamels, Alcohol based and of course laqcuers. You can not go wrong with Tamiya's laqcuer thinner retarder type works great with every solvent paint from Mr hobby, Tamiya, Testors, Humbrol etc. The retarder gives you such nice resaults and it works just as good with alcohol based as it does with laqcuer paint witch it is intended for.
There is a dive shop here in Halifax NS that also has a bunch of model railroad and cat stuff. They carry Tamiya paints there. Really nice stuff! Thanks for another great video.
That Tamiya paint looks great, now need a video masking two colours, great work
Excellent! Great review bud. I’m definitely going to pick up a set of these. Great looking paints. Thanks for the review.
Great review as always. i've been hand brushing these Tamiya enamel paints for a while now. and i can vouch for the results that you came up in this video. Iit works great for overcoat (or overbrush in my case if that;s make sense) over a lacquer painted parts that i've air brushed (i used mr color ones). and it works well with lacquer top coat on top of that too (you know, to seal the paints and decals). so i used these tamiya paints mainly for detailing and panel lining gunpla piece.
actually i have no idea these tamiya paints works well with airbrush too as i am too afraid to ruin my airbrush if i used this. i find these paints cure almost like "rubbery" thing when i leave some small residue in parts or hand brush that i have (i hope that makes sense). but its great to know you can use pretty much use ALL of the thinners available to clean this paint.
thank you for that i learned a lot
ps: i've been watching your reviews and i find that you have a lot of that gunpla part you use for testing lol
ps2: i LOVE the gunmetal color in this paint too! :D
The Gunmetal is awesome. One of my favorite colors. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching
Excellent video as always, thank you. People should not be worried about ordering some thing from Poland I have never had a single issue.
I got mine from Sunward hobbies in Canada, Free shipping (in Canada at least) over $60cad
OMG the clear blue is so beautiful
Oh yeah, it's a super nice color for sure.
Looks great! I have been back into modeling for only 6 months. These videos are great for learning about air brushing and the different paints. I haven’t seen these enamels in Canada yet, but I haven’t done a search for them yet. Thanks again for sharing Rex!
Hello So you can use flat paint as a primer.
Thanks for the knowledge share, excellent video!! The results are quite impressive! I'm about to brush paint a small badge on a fishing reel that is currently golden (white plastic painted gold), with X-18 (Semi-gloss black) and I am wondering if I can brush paint directly overthe current gold paint or if I should apply any type of primer first or, at least, run a bit of fine sand paper over it? I can't remove the badge from the reel so I can't easily spray it (which is what i woiuld have preferred). Thanks in advance for the advice.
You can probably paint on top of it. Test it out on a spot but I think you'll be OK
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks bud, I’ll give it a go!
Super detailed and well explained, thanks dude. Was great.
Thanks buddy
Super-Hobby is my favorite hobby supplier, affordable, good and fast shipping. I like the Pactra Acrylic paint they sell, lots of colours and only 1.20 per bottle and works great! Have you already tried those?
Thanks for another great demo! Really impressed with how smooth the flats turned out. Kinda disappointed in that X-15 though, been looking for a nice lime but they always end up too neon yellow looking.
Thats annoying, I dont know how to make it better. Maybe a green colour beneath or green primer.
Just the video I needed desperately! Thanks a lot! I was kinda afraid of using enamels but now everything is clear for me. Thanks a lot for the information, a like and subscription from me. Regards!
Very good demonstration. Well presented and good tips. Well done👍
Where did u get your clear paint stand u have the tamiya bottle paints in ??
Hello. I love your channel. You are doing a great service for modelers all over the world. I build styrene models but my passion are resin garage kits. Not asking you to get into resin kits but would you consider doing some paint tests on blocks of resin? I build anime character models and have been out of the hobby for quite a while. Also, there are a significant amount of garage kits made of vinyl. Some anime characters but a LOT of Kaiju or space monsters like Godzilla that are made of either resin or vinyl. Each have their challenges when paint hits material that is not styrene. Did you know that vinyl and enamel paint are incompatible? The paint remains sticky. Only acrylics and lacquers are compatible with vinyl.
I used resin for my primer test. I poured my own into domino molds. I will consider using them for future paint tests
I do modeling and I airbrush fine art. You might want to try Golden's High Flow Acrylics. Golden invented acrylic paint and their High Flow Acrylics were designed for airbrushing. Also as a nice side note Golden is a employee owned business in New York.
The whole point of this video is to introduce another "ENAMEL" paint for those who have no problem working with a TOUGHER paint. Many of us do not like acrylics for everything & actually like enamel paint.
@@danielbritton8588 I have never tried spraying enamel paints but as I have heard they spray like laqcuers and alcohol based but smells worse and dries slower.
If using enamel paint, then panel lining on top, I often find I can’t clean the panel lines as it would rub off the base enamel layer~ should I be using a lacquer clear coat or enamel clear coat before panel lining? Or must I use true acrylic for panel lining?
I tend to find acrylic paints don’t jump out as well as lacquer or enamel
Hi, Barbatos. Thanx for the great video. I have 2 questions actually. First, when you airbrush the clear paint, do you also thin it or just use it straight from the jar? Second, do you also thin the paint when brushing?
Thank you for sharing… I’m thinking about getting a few of this paints. 👍🏼❤️
Thank you for you're great knowledge! I've been dying to find Tamiya enamels!!!
I don`t use an airbrush, but I enjoyed how you used those Tamiya paints and how they came out. It was a great help to me. I have used tamiya paints both spray and bottle paints for many years. I think they are great paints to use. Again thanks for the seminar on how to correctly use the paints. What kind of spray booth is that that you were using? Is it pretty expensive? Again thanks for taking the time to do this.
I recently posted a video on my spray booth. It's a dual fan version which is about $150 but there's a singles fan version that cost a bit less. Check out my video here including links in the description
czcams.com/video/WYagImp0srg/video.html
Interesting video, thanks for this comparison. I really like the X15 from the jar, would be awesome for a future VIPcar project. But it looks like it ain't easy getting that exact colour once airbrushed. Thanks again and well done 👍
Barbatos have you ever tested Vallejos solvent based paint, its called liquid gold and they can be thinned with leveling thinner, laqcuer thinner and x20a. The hole lineup is suppose to be better than the regular vallejo gold and metallic paints since they are solvent based.
Yes I have tested them here. They're really nice paints, I do recommend them. Look it up on my channel under videos.
@@barbatosrex9473 I will check it out thanks!
The metallic colours are very nice
Yes, they look awesome for sure
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
Where did you get the paint display holder!!!
Great job on your reviews
Warning: the problem with enamels is unless you have a food dehydrator (like Barbatos Rex) it will take a long, long time for the paint to dry (maybe a few days or longer). This is one of the reasons why modelers went to acrylics and lacquers for the fast drying time.
true the silver testors NEVER dries either
Enamel is better than acrylic. I once had to use Testors acrylic because I couldn't find Humbrol enamels and it was a bad experience.
Enamels are the unsung hero of the paint world. My Mecha Empire paint line is enamel
Great vid, thanks for sharing! 👍👍
Can i hand brush tamiya enamel 1:1 enamel paint and thinner without a respirator, in a room with windows open? Would it be safe? I heard the fumes can be toxic, can i also apply it without a primer?
Hi, Barbatos. Thanks for the video. I want to ask, how long do I wait for the layer one of the Tamiya Enamel to dry, before I hand paint the 2nd coat? Thanks.
Great to good
Most hobby shops have them here in Canada
another old tried-and-true Rule Of Thumb is that lacquers are the strongest paints with the harshest solvents.....next come oil based or lacquer-based enamels and finally water based acrylics such as Tamiya or the water/latex based Gunze-Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Colors. you can safely apply apply acrylics over lacquers or enamels but NOT the other way around....!
U need to do some tutorials showing how u paint entire kits. That would be awesome!
Good idea, I'm not really equipped to film and edit for kit build videos but I might do one on painting an entire kit, thanks for the tip 👍
So for airbrush 1:1 ratio is good and for handpainting no thinning required?
What about painting die-cast metal model cars? That's what I deal with exclusively! Do you have any tips and suggestions for that? Much appreciated thank you Robert.
Are you painting them now? What paint type do you use if so?
Love your videos man! Very informative, do you think this tamiya enamel is more durable than mr.color?
It's about the same. That said, Enamels are the most durable of all paints.
Those tamiya enamel are good as the testors or model master enamels?
Someone must have called you out for mispronouncing aluminum. 😂😂😂
Keep up the good reviews, Sir. You're a God Send for the Scale modeling community. 💯💯
now if we can get him to pronounce tamiya the right way lol
im just gonna guess 1 to 1 ratio that you can mix colors and how do you feel about enamel paint when ten 15 years go buy maybe lacquer only type
hey there, what's the best clear red paint to paint by brush for gems or blood drops?
I would go with a lacquer. The Mr Color line up is good for that
Great review, think I need to get some👍
Tamiya enamels have been around forever. I'm surprised that you've never tested it before. Still, since I don't use enamels much at all this was a very helpful test to see. Might try them out more thoroughly. On a car maybe. Why do you think enamels just don't get much use compared to acrylics or lacquers? From what I can tell it's the same here in Asia.
I'd say the requirement to use a toxic thinner. People are less willing to just flush stuff down the drain as they used to be, so you end up with soaked rags or a bottle of filthy thinner. I know acrylics aren't necessarily non toxic, but being water soluble, you can feel less scummy about washing them down the sink.
Great job...as always!
I agree!!
Looks like u missed the purple 🙂
The enemal is widely used for reverse wash, I think if you thin it with leveling thinner, you cannot do the reverse wash and it cannot be wash away with X20
What is reverse wash?
@@statoilbensin2190 You spray lacquer paint to a part and let dry. Then you spray the enemal on top and let dry. Use enemal thinner or lighter fluid you can wash out any of the enemal paint on top layer and show the underneath lacquer color.
There is a place in nj that stock these
Quest - for that lime/fluorescent green, did you ever test the effects when/if brushed-on, (and how many coats) in terms of coverage and color matching (as shown on the bottle/cap)?
Nice paint, would you recommend it over the testors bottles?
(B-T-W Thanks for the test/evaluation of the various thinners. Would definitely use the “box store” type thinner, and use the savings for other hobby items).
That green brushed on better than it airbrushed. 2 coats from brushing looked close to the cap. These are a step above Testors for sure
AK interactive metal colors works terrible with a brush for me, so I bought some revell enamel, In a few days I will gona test it, but is seems very diferent, the enamel from revell does not show a two liquid phases, in the "AK interactive" they used a solvent, when you shake the bottle to homogenize the paint and touch the solution with the brush the sparkles dont stick to the brush, and you get more solvent than sparkles, so I am not recomend it by my experience, AK interactive metallic only works with an airbrush.
Extreme Metal is airbrush only. As is Vallejo Liquid Metal. Model Master Metalizers and Alclad II Lacquers. All are airbrush only
what differnec between X 27 clear red vs Tamiya Enamel X-27??????????????????????????
Interesting to see these Tamiya offerings vs Testors. I'm guessing the X-?? name is universal, as the Acrylic and Enamel offerings from Tamiya are both labeled the same. Seems
T800?? is the 10ml gloss enamels
T810?? is the 23ml gloss acrylic
T815?? is the 10ml gloss acrylic
Another awesome share, thanks :)
so mecha painting is only basecoating? cause i didnt see any highlight work or weathering in your videos. just wondering
What do you use to thin X-31?
I suggest trying X-12 gold leaf and try it with tamiya enamel thinner, it doesn't work & will make the paint coagulate instead
I notice some of paint oil(seperators?) Are different on these enamels, if you leave it for few days, you come up with clear colored oils, where as gold leaf & titanium gold seem to be green instead
Tldr, i can't thin tamiya enamel gold leaf & tamiya enamel titanium gold with tamiya enamel thinner, does this happen to you?
So far I've only thinned them with lacquer thinner but have had any troubles using that
Thanks for the reply, then its probably on metallics gloss paint
i'll use levelling in case i need to thin it, though that make it can't be used for washings/panel lining
Just a few warning then, don't pre thin gloss metallics with tamiya enamel thinner, it will damage the paint particles
Or it might be just my bottle
if you thin these with a lacquer thinner, can i still remove the paint with lighter fluid or their x20 thinner? planning on doing some reverse washing for the first time.
Yes, it will still work 👍
@@barbatosrex9473 wont mess up the lacquer base coat?
I would like to see a video on army painter paints
I will look into them. I did test their Primer in my spray can primer shoot out. Good stuff
@@barbatosrex9473 I saw the video on that, very informative. I am curious on your take or anyone that has used army painter paints in an airbrush.
@@chaostb most don't use them in an airbrush and because of that I will be testing them for airbrushing 👍soon I hope
ThanX for another great video! According to airbrushing how do You compare Tamiya Lacquer with Tamiya enamel?
If you don't mind the smell, the lacquers are my go to choice. Bigger jars too. But they both spray and brush great. Might come down to if you can find them. Here in the US the Tamiya Lacquers came out this week. Finally we get them here. Enamels by Tamiya are never going to be released here I understand.
@@barbatosrex9473 In Sweden we can only get Lacquer and acrylic and only in the 10 ml jars, but like You I order from Super-Hobby in Poland
Im just gonna stick to acrylics and lacquer paints, with this u need a special cleaner to clean the airbrush just like u showed in the video.
Great helpful test as ever. I love your work and have seen all of your tests. It saves me a lot of money and issues. Thanks for that. Maybe you can try a test of Zero Paints and there 2K Clear Coat. I've heard these are awesome paints for cars. But here in Germany very hard to get it. Greetings.
Having trouble getting them here in the US too
No thinner when brushing?
Love this review. Will these paints adhere to lexan RC bodies?
I've used enamels before on a RC body and had good luck with it. I would give it a try, won't cost much to try it that's for sure
Does Tamiya make the full range of colors similar to their acrylics? I am experimenting too with paints and thinking of converting to enamels. Thanks for sharing
Yes, the enamel line up is about the size as the acrylics. 85 colors to choose from. 23 Gloss, 48 matt and 7 translucent.
I use lacquer thinner for the Testers enamel paints. Can I use lacquer thinner with these Tamiya enamel paints?
You sure can. I used lacquer thinner here in this video. You'll get great results with it too.
@barbatos rex did you thin the clear color blue?
Yes
When brushing enamel paint with a normal brush, can i just open the little jar and start using it or do i need to do anything to it
You can do that no problem. Thinking does help it level and smooth out in some cases. Only a couple drops of thinner will be needed when thinning it.
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks :)
Hello.. How much ratio thinning clear color enamel tamiya for airbrush , btw i use leveling thinner too
About 7 parts paint to 3 parts thinner, and then go up from their as every airbrush is different
Are the sms paint test coming soon?
Yes. Great paints by the way. One of the best I've ever used. Not too cheap but the quality is there
So what is the advantage of these enamels (over lacquers or acrylics) on the small parts of cars? I do see people using them for this exact purpose!
I find that they dry real nice when brushing small parts with them. They are also more durable than acrylics. The gloss colors have more of a shine than most other paints and they don't smell anywhere near as bad as lacquers do. They don't need to be thinned when brushing them either.
the advantage to doing detail work on top of lacquer in enamel thinned with white spirits ( i use naphtha) not lacquer thinner, is that you can be a bit sloppy with the application and then once it sets up some you can come back and wipe away the overspray or strokes with white spirits which include butane like in zippo fluid. basically u can save a bunch of masking time where applicable. lacquer thinner would of course reactivate any lacquer base coat. on acrylic ur fine with the various thinners. i avoid the heck out of mineral spirits as it make the styrene brittle as all get out, particularly with Bandai plastic.
Can you hand brush these enamels without thinning the paint?
Yes you can
Is the large can (pt. gal. ) found in stores, of oderless enamal thinners the same as the ones you show ?
Yes, all cans of Mineral Spirits are the same. You shouldn't have a problem
does the booth have to vent to the outside?
Check out my video on using a bucket to vent a spray booth
Have you try it over stynylrez primmer
Not yet. But I've never had trouble with Stynylrez but that said, I always seem to have a problem when spraying enamels over just about anything other than it's own primer or just plastic. I have a friend who never uses primer on anything and his kits look super professional so there's that
I made a mistake by thining x-22 clear by x-20a acrylic thinner. Then my airbrush got clogged 😂. I remember oil and water doesnt mix😅.
How fast does it dry without dehydrator?
Barbatos any luck in finding Zvezda acrylic?
I haven't but I'm starting to shop more overseas so I'm hoping soon
Where you get the paint rack?
The Container Store
when you put the parts/spoons in the dehydrator does it do anything to the paint? like make it harder and more resistant than just air drying or it just to speed up the drying process?
I haven't given that a thought as I use it to speed up drying but maybe you're on to something, it might actually be making it tougher. I will test that theory and do an updated video on the dehydrator
I've used metallic colors from both Testors and Tamiya enamels and they never seem to dry to a hard durable finish (I had no issues with flat enamels drying to a hard finish). Have you had the same problem with metallic enamels?
I believe that's a trait with hobby metallic enamels. But with a good sealer/Varnish over them you're all set.
Tamiya acrylic paint need thinner?
Yes, I did an entire video on how to use them. Use either lacquer thinner or rubbing alcohol 91%