Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your knowledge and passing down what you have learned to young aspiring modelers and painters alike. Most are privy to this info and charge people for this information, you however are doing it on your own time and with your own money and for that i salute you sir!
Mad Maximus, I'll be honest with you. I expected more of a response from this video. I worked really, really hard on it and it's difficult not to feel disappointed. HOWEVER, reading your comment really cheered me up last night. It's great to know that there's someone who appreciates what I'm doing and understands. Thank you, MM.
Sorry to hear that. Your channel does a wonderful job breaking down complex modeling techniques. You’ve got me considering many for my projects that I would have never attempted in the past. This video is to me, THE video on chipping. For what it’s worth, I appreciate your work and thank you for it.
Thank you very much, Aaron. It’s been a while since I made that video; it took me many hours to make and reception at the time was a bit meh, so I kind of abandoned the idea…your positive feedback is very much appreciated!
@@TheRaceForTerra I'm a motion designer by trade, I think you did a fantastic job visually laying out the concepts of process. That's the thing about motion graphics, it is extremely useful in improving the medium, but like with so many other fields of design, if it works, a viewer doesn't notice it. Don't get dissuaded by the silence, the effort elevated your content.
@@aarongaponoff9489 Wow, thank you, Aaron! I really appreciate the feedback and advice. Are there any sources you would recommend for the self-taught content creator in this regard?
@@TheRaceForTerra For learning After Effects or motion design in general. It depends on how much time or cash you have to put in. It sounds like you already have the basics down if you built the chart in After Effects. School of Motion has a free 10 day course "The Path to Motion Design". I haven't taken that specific course but have taken some of their advanced paid ones, and they are pretty superb, so I'm guessing basic one is of equal quality. I like School of Motion as they teach both the tools, and the craft/fundamentals, and do a great job with it. Once you get to a certain point of learning, you'll have enough of a familiarity where you can 'know what you don't know' and be able to google-search questions and find topic-specific tutorials on youtube. I still look up stuff even after years experience.
@@TheRaceForTerra Yes, that's the crux of it isn't it - a few nerds working together and encouraging one another in their efforts has to be the best way and far better than some corporate, product-driven garbage! Your stuff is consistently inspiring and the community we are slowly building is testament to that and our collective endeavours. Long may it remain!
Very nice summary video. I'm doing some sponge chipping right now and it is reassuring to see the steps I had planned laid out so nicely! My only comment is that I think the order of [Basecoat / Chipping Fluid] for the "Chipping Fluid" method should be reversed, ie. you should apply chipping fluid / hairspray over the Rust undercoat first, then apply the basecoat on top of that. Unless I am badly mistaken, the hairspray will soften when water is applied later, and allow the basecoat to easily scrape off. If you apply the hairspray on top of the basecoat, and then try to remove the basecoat with water, all you are going to achieve is to rub off the hairspray...
Thanks, Chris! That is what I did with the chipping fluid, though...maybe I explained it incorrectly? Wouldn't have worked at all otherwise, as you said!
@@TheRaceForTerra Yeah, it wouldn't have worked, you are right. I haven't used chipping fluid before, only hairspray. What I think happened is that in the demonstration, where you added the chipping fluid to the drop pod at 11:37, you added it over a white undercoat, and when you chip it away with water at 12:28, you aren't chipping away the white - instead you are chipping away the blue base coat to reveal the white. The drop pod doesn't seem to have a rust undercoat, only the white? But what I do know is that if I am using hairspray, it should go between the undercoat (rust, in your case), and the basecoat. So your method isn't wrong, but I think the Steps graphic *might* be. I think your Chipping Fluid sequence should instead read: Priming -> Rust undercoat -> Chipping fluid (or Hairspray) -> Basecoat -> Chipping with water -> Pin Wash -> Streaking -> Pigments. What do you think? If I look at (for example) the Heavy Chipping Effects fluid from Ammo, the website says "Apply a base layer of acrylic paint, a layer of Heavy Chipping Effect followed by a top layer of acrylic paint"...
I discovered The Race for Terra two or three days ago and I just get hanged!!! This video is perfect for me! I'll take back my Death Guard project to the painting table once I'll finish the dwarf BloodBowl team I'm painting now. THANKS!!!!!!
Correct on both counts. The Facebook Page does not exist anymore, and the Discord is for Patreon supporters only. However, I am on holidays right now, so the Patreon is on pause, as I don't want to charge people for benefits I can't provide.
Im biased cos fully converted weathering boi but this is fantastic mate. Great job. More DnD similies please 😂 also great that you include the sponge chipping option as its more inclusive to newer hobbyists 🤞
That is an excellent question, Vogless, but not one which I can answer in full here. The abridged version would be to say that it depends on the level of perfection required, but it also depends on what type of paints are being used, what layers may go on top of a particular chipping layer, etc. And then, most importantly, you can have different types of chipping within the same project. For example, take my recent Grim Jagdtiger - that one had sponge chipping on the red (done off camera), and chipping fluid on the Dark Yellow (which I did show).
This is such a great video! Thank you very much! I have questions though ;-) 1. What is the pigment fixer you use, I only understood MIG... 2. Could you maybe add the name of the products you mention in the description? 3. What is a good gloss/satin varnish in your opinion?
Hi, HeresyNutter, Let me see: 1. AMMO of MIG Pigment Fixer. 2. Other products: Humbrol Maskol, AMMO Odorless Thinner, AMMO Black Wash, Ammo Streaking Rust, Ammo Worn Effects. 3. Depends on whether you want it as a finish varnish, or as a "work varnish". If you need it to be tough and durable, I would recommend Tamiya XF-86 or X-22. If it's just for the finish, then I would go with AMMO Lucky Varnish.
This is a great tutorial! Any advice on how to weather smaller-scale models? I'd love to weather my Battletech mechs in a similar way, but I'm worried that the chips and streaks would look too big on that scale.
Hi Andy, thanks for subscribing, and for your kind words! I have yet to paint any Battletech, I'm afraid - I bought the core set a year ago after decades of it being a platonic love for me. However, I have applied chipping to Adeptus Titanicus models, which isn't that different. To my mind, the fact the the weapons causing that paint damage would be as huge as the mechs means that scale shouldn't be an issue. Use the barrels of the guns as an indication of what the biggest chips might look like, I would say. Hope this helps!
Top work as always! 👌 Assuming that you have the required skill and materials to go down the liquid mask route, would you say there is ever a reason to go back to chipping fluid or sponge chipping, particularly on vehicles? Sponge chipping on infantry I can understand due to scale, but is it ever worth going 'backwards' when dealing with larger models?
Thanks, Paul! Chipping fluid allows you to make more diffuse effects, which can be useful, and also works with stuff like winter camo on tanks. Sponge chipping I would only use on marines, or for emergencies (I did have this very case when doing LC's Terrax!).
A big big big big big thank you! I was needing this information about the steeps and the correct order to make them! One question! Im going to apply chipping with a tiny brush insted of sponge, and Im going to do this in a part of my knight that is just metal (legs painted with vallejo metal color series). When i pass for the streaking part, i Will need to apply varnish. Is the gloss varnish a good idea? Because uselly fu#ks metal paints metal effect. What should i do? And thank you in advance!
Hi Nino, your comment was "held for review" due to...a certain word you used 😆, otherwise I would have replied sooner. There's a lot of discussion regarding varnish, but I have always had better results WITH than without. If you don't varnish, the surface will be porous, and blending enamels or oils will be much harder. So my recommendation would be gloss varnish, yes. If everything goes well, I will have a metal weathering tutorial next Friday, using Adeptus Titanicus stuff. How does that sound? 😉
Hey KH, yes, you could in fact use a hairspray can instead of chipping fluid, and then a rattle can primer as you said. Just don’t wait a lot in between, as rattlecan paints are lacquers, and not very reactive. Apply the paint as soon as the hairspray is dry to the touch, and apply friction with a damp brush as soon as the paint is dry to the touch. Hope this helps!
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your knowledge and passing down what you have learned to young aspiring modelers and painters alike. Most are privy to this info and charge people for this information, you however are doing it on your own time and with your own money and for that i salute you sir!
Mad Maximus, I'll be honest with you. I expected more of a response from this video. I worked really, really hard on it and it's difficult not to feel disappointed. HOWEVER, reading your comment really cheered me up last night. It's great to know that there's someone who appreciates what I'm doing and understands. Thank you, MM.
Sorry to hear that. Your channel does a wonderful job breaking down complex modeling techniques. You’ve got me considering many for my projects that I would have never attempted in the past. This video is to me, THE video on chipping. For what it’s worth, I appreciate your work and thank you for it.
I’m a year late but I hope it’s not to late to comment on the quality of these vids. Thank you for the effort put into your work.
No, it's not. Much appreciated, thank you!
This is probably the most easy to follow, comprehensive breakdown I've yet to see. Thanks for making this.
Thank you very much, Aaron. It’s been a while since I made that video; it took me many hours to make and reception at the time was a bit meh, so I kind of abandoned the idea…your positive feedback is very much appreciated!
@@TheRaceForTerra I'm a motion designer by trade, I think you did a fantastic job visually laying out the concepts of process. That's the thing about motion graphics, it is extremely useful in improving the medium, but like with so many other fields of design, if it works, a viewer doesn't notice it. Don't get dissuaded by the silence, the effort elevated your content.
@@aarongaponoff9489 Wow, thank you, Aaron! I really appreciate the feedback and advice. Are there any sources you would recommend for the self-taught content creator in this regard?
@@TheRaceForTerra For learning After Effects or motion design in general. It depends on how much time or cash you have to put in. It sounds like you already have the basics down if you built the chart in After Effects. School of Motion has a free 10 day course "The Path to Motion Design". I haven't taken that specific course but have taken some of their advanced paid ones, and they are pretty superb, so I'm guessing basic one is of equal quality. I like School of Motion as they teach both the tools, and the craft/fundamentals, and do a great job with it.
Once you get to a certain point of learning, you'll have enough of a familiarity where you can 'know what you don't know' and be able to google-search questions and find topic-specific tutorials on youtube. I still look up stuff even after years experience.
@@aarongaponoff9489 Thank you very much, Aaron, I will check School of Motion out!
Great idea, why didn't anyone think of this before?!
Thank you, Rick! I wouldn't have thought of this if it weren't for our discussions on the Discord!
@@TheRaceForTerra Yes, that's the crux of it isn't it - a few nerds working together and encouraging one another in their efforts has to be the best way and far better than some corporate, product-driven garbage! Your stuff is consistently inspiring and the community we are slowly building is testament to that and our collective endeavours. Long may it remain!
Hmm, I like this liquid mask method. I shall use it on my Guard tanks next.
Came from your post on reddit.
Glad to hear it, Paddzr!
Fantastic stuff really detailed will be using this on my milita forces, loving all the content keep up the amazing work.
Thank you, Nick, much appreciated, and I'm happy to hear that! 30k Militia rocks!
Very nice summary video. I'm doing some sponge chipping right now and it is reassuring to see the steps I had planned laid out so nicely!
My only comment is that I think the order of [Basecoat / Chipping Fluid] for the "Chipping Fluid" method should be reversed, ie. you should apply chipping fluid / hairspray over the Rust undercoat first, then apply the basecoat on top of that. Unless I am badly mistaken, the hairspray will soften when water is applied later, and allow the basecoat to easily scrape off. If you apply the hairspray on top of the basecoat, and then try to remove the basecoat with water, all you are going to achieve is to rub off the hairspray...
Thanks, Chris! That is what I did with the chipping fluid, though...maybe I explained it incorrectly? Wouldn't have worked at all otherwise, as you said!
@@TheRaceForTerra Yeah, it wouldn't have worked, you are right. I haven't used chipping fluid before, only hairspray.
What I think happened is that in the demonstration, where you added the chipping fluid to the drop pod at 11:37, you added it over a white undercoat, and when you chip it away with water at 12:28, you aren't chipping away the white - instead you are chipping away the blue base coat to reveal the white. The drop pod doesn't seem to have a rust undercoat, only the white?
But what I do know is that if I am using hairspray, it should go between the undercoat (rust, in your case), and the basecoat.
So your method isn't wrong, but I think the Steps graphic *might* be. I think your Chipping Fluid sequence should instead read:
Priming -> Rust undercoat -> Chipping fluid (or Hairspray) -> Basecoat -> Chipping with water -> Pin Wash -> Streaking -> Pigments.
What do you think?
If I look at (for example) the Heavy Chipping Effects fluid from Ammo, the website says "Apply a base layer of acrylic paint, a layer of Heavy Chipping Effect followed by a top layer of acrylic paint"...
I discovered The Race for Terra two or three days ago and I just get hanged!!! This video is perfect for me! I'll take back my Death Guard project to the painting table once I'll finish the dwarf BloodBowl team I'm painting now.
THANKS!!!!!!
¡Gracias, Jose María! Very happy to hear that. Love Blood Bowl as well!
@@TheRaceForTerra link to Facebook doesn't work. Doesn't the group/web exist anymore? Is Discord only for Patrons?
Correct on both counts. The Facebook Page does not exist anymore, and the Discord is for Patreon supporters only. However, I am on holidays right now, so the Patreon is on pause, as I don't want to charge people for benefits I can't provide.
This is a nugget of pure gold! Such a handy rundown!
Thank you kindly, Isaak, and it was great to meet you in the Discord last night!
This is quickly becoming my favourite painting channel 👍
I am honored, Dave!
Great video, sir! Very informative! 😁
Thank you, Nick! Our next showcase is coming soon, don't forget! 😉
@@TheRaceForTerra Awesome! I think I have a couple things I've finished recently that will fit within the parameters 😜👍
This video is amazing!
Thank you, Masamune-san! Happy you liked it!
goody gumdrops I want to level up my weathering game. Saving this for later.
Hope you like it, Dan!
Im biased cos fully converted weathering boi but this is fantastic mate. Great job. More DnD similies please 😂 also great that you include the sponge chipping option as its more inclusive to newer hobbyists 🤞
I have D&D similes galore! Heheh!
What dictates which path you choose? Speed, looks, amount of weathering desired, just because?
That is an excellent question, Vogless, but not one which I can answer in full here. The abridged version would be to say that it depends on the level of perfection required, but it also depends on what type of paints are being used, what layers may go on top of a particular chipping layer, etc. And then, most importantly, you can have different types of chipping within the same project. For example, take my recent Grim Jagdtiger - that one had sponge chipping on the red (done off camera), and chipping fluid on the Dark Yellow (which I did show).
This is such a great video! Thank you very much!
I have questions though ;-)
1. What is the pigment fixer you use, I only understood MIG...
2. Could you maybe add the name of the products you mention in the description?
3. What is a good gloss/satin varnish in your opinion?
Hi, HeresyNutter,
Let me see:
1. AMMO of MIG Pigment Fixer.
2. Other products: Humbrol Maskol, AMMO Odorless Thinner, AMMO Black Wash, Ammo Streaking Rust, Ammo Worn Effects.
3. Depends on whether you want it as a finish varnish, or as a "work varnish". If you need it to be tough and durable, I would recommend Tamiya XF-86 or X-22. If it's just for the finish, then I would go with AMMO Lucky Varnish.
Thank you very much!
Anytime! Have I mentioned my Discord server for Patreon supporters...? 😇
This is a great tutorial! Any advice on how to weather smaller-scale models? I'd love to weather my Battletech mechs in a similar way, but I'm worried that the chips and streaks would look too big on that scale.
Hi Andy, thanks for subscribing, and for your kind words! I have yet to paint any Battletech, I'm afraid - I bought the core set a year ago after decades of it being a platonic love for me. However, I have applied chipping to Adeptus Titanicus models, which isn't that different. To my mind, the fact the the weapons causing that paint damage would be as huge as the mechs means that scale shouldn't be an issue. Use the barrels of the guns as an indication of what the biggest chips might look like, I would say. Hope this helps!
Top work as always! 👌
Assuming that you have the required skill and materials to go down the liquid mask route, would you say there is ever a reason to go back to chipping fluid or sponge chipping, particularly on vehicles? Sponge chipping on infantry I can understand due to scale, but is it ever worth going 'backwards' when dealing with larger models?
Thanks, Paul! Chipping fluid allows you to make more diffuse effects, which can be useful, and also works with stuff like winter camo on tanks. Sponge chipping I would only use on marines, or for emergencies (I did have this very case when doing LC's Terrax!).
A big big big big big thank you! I was needing this information about the steeps and the correct order to make them! One question! Im going to apply chipping with a tiny brush insted of sponge, and Im going to do this in a part of my knight that is just metal (legs painted with vallejo metal color series). When i pass for the streaking part, i Will need to apply varnish. Is the gloss varnish a good idea? Because uselly fu#ks metal paints metal effect. What should i do? And thank you in advance!
Hi Nino, your comment was "held for review" due to...a certain word you used 😆, otherwise I would have replied sooner. There's a lot of discussion regarding varnish, but I have always had better results WITH than without. If you don't varnish, the surface will be porous, and blending enamels or oils will be much harder. So my recommendation would be gloss varnish, yes. If everything goes well, I will have a metal weathering tutorial next Friday, using Adeptus Titanicus stuff. How does that sound? 😉
I don't have an airbrush for the chipping fluid method, but is it possible to do it with a rattle can primer?
Hey KH, yes, you could in fact use a hairspray can instead of chipping fluid, and then a rattle can primer as you said. Just don’t wait a lot in between, as rattlecan paints are lacquers, and not very reactive. Apply the paint as soon as the hairspray is dry to the touch, and apply friction with a damp brush as soon as the paint is dry to the touch. Hope this helps!
@@TheRaceForTerra Sounds good, thanks!
Merci !
Thank you kindly, Mr. O! Let me know if you have any questions about that video or any others!