If you want to cheat when at your local decorators supply shop , find a tester pot of paint and to it add sand and wollah what you have is a cheaper version of Stirling Mud as sold by GW, at a fraction of the cost. But a tip to remember as sand drops to the bottom, give it a shake and a stir each time before applying it to your mini's basing.
Thank you for the video! Absolutely love your structure for content. It's interesting to listen to, straight to the point but with enough detail to understand exactly what's going on. Plus your voice is pleasant to listen to! Keep it up man! Cheers
I ran across this old video and while the techniques are still applicable today I have to say that your painting has noticeably improved over the last few years.
Very nice! I use generally the same techniques so don't have anything to add - it was just nice to see someone else doing things the same way I do. It was a nice validation. Also, I try to get by as cheaply as possible so while I too have tried the various pre-colored sand effects, in the end I just keep coming back to the jar of sand I collected on a beach 5 years ago which will probably last me until I can't hold a paintbrush in my hand anymore!
You definitely don't want to store that Goya Struktur-Paste on the same shelf the Mrs. keeps her jar of cold cream. Your painting days might be over then lol.
With the sand method, I've found that if the bits look too big. Sort of out of scale. Another pva over the top of the sand can flatten it a bit if you feel that it needs it.
What I did when I was basing my Circle Orboros army which I wanted to be sort of a grey colour is I took some PVA and thinned it down as normall and then added some P3 Greatcoat Grey into the glue just to colour the glue then brushed it on put the sand then put more of the coloured PVA over top. When I wanted to make flat rocky bits I got a plastic plate from the grocery store that was made of a thick green plastic and had a chip in the plate so they gave it to us for free. I took a hammer to the plate and bashed it into a billion little pieces which I could then Glue/Stack and glue onto the bases and paint over them
I really like the look & feel you get on bases and was hoping I would find a video by you on the subject! Thanks! RE: materials, you can find a nice selection of useful mats by looking into model railroading supplies. The hobby offers a terrific range of both sizes & colors of gravel as "ballast" - (the stuff that holds the tracks in place!) You'll a!so find a wide variety of ground cover with everything from grasses to scrubs and even trees! And finally, they offer an incredible range of rocks & stones. You can even get individual bricks (whole and broken) and other masonry items, (concrete, rebar, etc.) Best of all, the size of the packages is good for us and the pricing tends to be very reasonable! I have even dealt with a guy in Colorado who collects and then breaks down sage brush and tumbleweeds into incredibly realistic tree armatures which can be dressed with foliage and added to dioramas or used for forest terrain.
I've seen some really cracking results using model train stuff. HO scale material seems to work the best for basing from what I've seen, and the ballast is definitely some of the handiest material I've seen. Pre-coloured is half the work done, sometimes! The other cool thing about train supplies is that depending on where you are, they're easy to find in department stores and the like - Germany is mad for model trains, so I can find three places in the center of town alone that'd do these things in bulk amounts. I'm planning on going back and revisiting a few of these older videos, and I think you've struck on a good point to bring up if I cycle back around to basing.
Yes, HO mats are the closest looking in scale to 28mm mini figs. HO is 1/87th scale or 1/8 inch (3.5mm) to the foot. However, for structures, you would be better off using O gauge or O scale buildings. O scale is twice that of HO (half O) at 1/4 inch (7mm) to the foot. O scale ballast works well for boulders and larger rock formations with the scenic materials also standing in for larger applications (giant trees etc.) The hobby also offers a wide selection of construction materials in both plastic and wood. For an idea of what is available in plastic, search an American company called Plastruct. For a good look at what the hobby offers overall, search Walthers, the biggest American name in model railroading - retail & wholesale.
Have you ever tried the Vallejo Diorama stuff? Pretty cheap and wow do ya get a lot... I managed to base 10 troops just scraping some off the top of the lid!
I'd suggest using slightly thicker PVA. I've had it happen once, but honestly just the once in 20-odd years of painting. Gumming it up seems to do the job!
I wish I could! I don't have any more of them, unfortunately. If I do happen to stumble across a spare in an old case by chance, I'll show off how I did mine.
Great video as usual! May I ask you for guick tip on static grass? This is the only thing you missed in the tutorial. I can see on many of your bases, that you arrange the static grass in beautiful small turfs.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thank you, that gamers grass looks superb, especially those various meadows flowers. I have purchased AP basing set, I have tried to use dip metod on Battlefield Field grass, but it doesn't look nice. The grass is just laying. Do you have any tip on that please?
It does depend a little on what effect you're looking for. Ordinarily, though, I stick to a finer sand. I just want a little texture rather than big, chunky rocks everywhere!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Super, thanks - I feel your guide would suit my Space Marines perfectly (inc. the tufts) - but wasn't sure which sand would suit them better
I've heard of folks using beach sand before, but I imagine that it would be very fine - not a lot of texture, depending on the scale you're working at. If you're doing tiny wee figures, maybe?
I prefer varnishing before I apply flock to a miniature. I've had varnish sprays go frosty over flock before, so I try to avoid it by leaving the bases until last or leaving them separate to the miniature I'm working on.
@@adrianwilliams6908 Dortmund, Nordrhein-Westfalen. ;D Been in Germany a couple of years, but I'm a Kiwi boy originally! From Hamilton back in the day.
If you want to cheat when at your local decorators supply shop , find a tester pot of paint and to it add sand and wollah what you have is a cheaper version of Stirling Mud as sold by GW, at a fraction of the cost. But a tip to remember as sand drops to the bottom, give it a shake and a stir each time before applying it to your mini's basing.
Finally, a proper and thorough explanation for the famed ‘sand and PVA’ technique I’ve heard so much about! Thank you for this video!
Gravels and sands from the road outside your home works good for some ground cover or debris.
Thank you for the video! Absolutely love your structure for content. It's interesting to listen to, straight to the point but with enough detail to understand exactly what's going on. Plus your voice is pleasant to listen to! Keep it up man!
Cheers
I try to edit out a lot of the waffle - you should hear how I drone on before I take the cut to some of these things! :D Thanks a lot!
I ran across this old video and while the techniques are still applicable today I have to say that your painting has noticeably improved over the last few years.
Exactly what I was looking for and so well presented ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Very nice! I use generally the same techniques so don't have anything to add - it was just nice to see someone else doing things the same way I do. It was a nice validation. Also, I try to get by as cheaply as possible so while I too have tried the various pre-colored sand effects, in the end I just keep coming back to the jar of sand I collected on a beach 5 years ago which will probably last me until I can't hold a paintbrush in my hand anymore!
You definitely don't want to store that Goya Struktur-Paste on the same shelf the Mrs. keeps her jar of cold cream. Your painting days might be over then lol.
Hi ive learnt so much from your show great job ,ho yes ill keep the faith lol
With the sand method, I've found that if the bits look too big. Sort of out of scale. Another pva over the top of the sand can flatten it a bit if you feel that it needs it.
What I did when I was basing my Circle Orboros army which I wanted to be sort of a grey colour is I took some PVA and thinned it down as normall and then added some P3 Greatcoat Grey into the glue just to colour the glue then brushed it on put the sand then put more of the coloured PVA over top.
When I wanted to make flat rocky bits I got a plastic plate from the grocery store that was made of a thick green plastic and had a chip in the plate so they gave it to us for free.
I took a hammer to the plate and bashed it into a billion little pieces which I could then Glue/Stack and glue onto the bases and paint over them
I really like the look & feel you get on bases and was hoping I would find a video by you on the subject! Thanks!
RE: materials, you can find a nice selection of useful mats by looking into model railroading supplies. The hobby offers a terrific range of both sizes & colors of gravel as "ballast" - (the stuff that holds the tracks in place!) You'll a!so find a wide variety of ground cover with everything from grasses to scrubs and even trees! And finally, they offer an incredible range of rocks & stones. You can even get individual bricks (whole and broken) and other masonry items, (concrete, rebar, etc.) Best of all, the size of the packages is good for us and the pricing tends to be very reasonable! I have even dealt with a guy in Colorado who collects and then breaks down sage brush and tumbleweeds into incredibly realistic tree armatures which can be dressed with foliage and added to dioramas or used for forest terrain.
I've seen some really cracking results using model train stuff. HO scale material seems to work the best for basing from what I've seen, and the ballast is definitely some of the handiest material I've seen. Pre-coloured is half the work done, sometimes!
The other cool thing about train supplies is that depending on where you are, they're easy to find in department stores and the like - Germany is mad for model trains, so I can find three places in the center of town alone that'd do these things in bulk amounts. I'm planning on going back and revisiting a few of these older videos, and I think you've struck on a good point to bring up if I cycle back around to basing.
Yes, HO mats are the closest looking in scale to 28mm mini figs. HO is 1/87th scale or 1/8 inch (3.5mm) to the foot. However, for structures, you would be better off using O gauge or O scale buildings. O scale is twice that of HO (half O) at 1/4 inch (7mm) to the foot. O scale ballast works well for boulders and larger rock formations with the scenic materials also standing in for larger applications (giant trees etc.) The hobby also offers a wide selection of construction materials in both plastic and wood. For an idea of what is available in plastic, search an American company called Plastruct. For a good look at what the hobby offers overall, search Walthers, the biggest American name in model railroading - retail & wholesale.
Really useful video, thanks.
great job thanks
You pronounced it correctly the 2nd time. Lichen sounds like liken.
Dude that unpainted chaos marine you used to showcase the GW base is badass! What is it?!
That's not Lichen, that is coloured sponge. Lichen looks like a plant and is dyed.
Have you ever tried the Vallejo Diorama stuff? Pretty cheap and wow do ya get a lot... I managed to base 10 troops just scraping some off the top of the lid!
I haven't actually used it personally, but a buddy of mine swears by the stuff and those pots seem like they'd last a hundred years!
According to OED both pronunciations of lichen are acceptable.
I have found PVA dries out and lifts off the plastic bases .
I'd suggest using slightly thicker PVA. I've had it happen once, but honestly just the once in 20-odd years of painting. Gumming it up seems to do the job!
Tutorial on the Mordian PLEASE, SIR??
I wish I could! I don't have any more of them, unfortunately. If I do happen to stumble across a spare in an old case by chance, I'll show off how I did mine.
I second that motion!
Thanks, Sonic!
Great video as usual! May I ask you for guick tip on static grass? This is the only thing you missed in the tutorial. I can see on many of your bases, that you arrange the static grass in beautiful small turfs.
The little tufts are actually pre-made tufts! Most of these are from either Games Workshop or a little outfit called Gamer's Grass.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thank you, that gamers grass looks superb, especially those various meadows flowers. I have purchased AP basing set, I have tried to use dip metod on Battlefield Field grass, but it doesn't look nice. The grass is just laying. Do you have any tip on that please?
Great video! In regards to the sand, would you recommend fine or coarse sand? Thanks
It does depend a little on what effect you're looking for. Ordinarily, though, I stick to a finer sand. I just want a little texture rather than big, chunky rocks everywhere!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Super, thanks - I feel your guide would suit my Space Marines perfectly (inc. the tufts) - but wasn't sure which sand would suit them better
Shoudl have said that currently I have my eye on Warlord Games' Desert Sand - do you think that would work?
Yup! That's the stuff I use most often. It's a nice, even grade and doesn't have any irregular chunks in it.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Super, thanks for taking the time to reply to me :)
What color is the case on the iron hands marine's bolter?
On the subject of sand for bases: is my local beach a good supply point?
I've heard of folks using beach sand before, but I imagine that it would be very fine - not a lot of texture, depending on the scale you're working at. If you're doing tiny wee figures, maybe?
Are you based in a german speaking country, since in a lot of your videos you have german products? :D
Varnish before or after flocking?
I prefer varnishing before I apply flock to a miniature. I've had varnish sprays go frosty over flock before, so I try to avoid it by leaving the bases until last or leaving them separate to the miniature I'm working on.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thank you. What part of NZ you in?
@@adrianwilliams6908 Dortmund, Nordrhein-Westfalen. ;D Been in Germany a couple of years, but I'm a Kiwi boy originally! From Hamilton back in the day.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio In exile! Hamilton is pretty.
it's pronounced 'lichen'
!!! !
Oh dear! You're broken! ;D What did you see that got you all excited this time?
:> :> The little tufts are so adorb
Lichen = (Lie - Ken)
I am the only one who thought these were weed nugs in the thumbnail of the video?