Nina Caprez: To Bolt Or Not To Be
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- čas přidán 28. 11. 2017
- Climbing To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock is like learning over 100 choreographed moves of a difficult dance. Nina Caprez shares her story of working her way up all 40 meters of perfectly smooth, vertical wall.
- Sport
Shout-out to Mathieu and Julien, the editing and cinematography was great: playful where it needed to be, yet respectful and focused on the climbing where it counted.
I don't think I've ever seen a front-flag like that (8:00). Absolutely beautiful technique!
You must be young... :)
(also Shauna Coxsey has been using it quite a bit in WC bouldering)
yessir / maim :)
Is a standard climbing technique lol...
that was THE move. I had to watch that like 5 times to even understand the movement. Incredible!!!
This is what i call my last chance before falling technique. Not sure if it was necessary or, even, better in this case.
Probably my favorite climber. Great skill, determination, and attitude.
beautiful! My favourite climber and style, both in one video! Congrats Nina
Absolutely brilliant! Such amazing technique! Great climb!
Very well done (the send and the video!) The music and tight editing really make it something special.
Dream route. Amazing climbing and great edit!
One of the best climbing videos I’ve ever seen!! Love it or hate it, technical face climbing is a huuuuge test of skill and patience. It really is a dance!! Sick send!!
Thanks! You can also watch "Orbayu", our other video with Nina...
Nina has a really great technique and climbing skill! Great inspiration!
We miss your videos they are always different, fun and inspiring to watch. Hope in 2018 we can see more challenging projects.
Great video, great climbing.
Very nice and inspirational video. Thanks a lot for sharing. Best wishes from Finland.
Even though I don't climb, I really like to watch these videos with Nina... 👍🏻💪👍🏻💪👍🏻💪
Nina is one of the best climbers out there!
Well done!!
Nothing better than getting arcteryx on Christmas morning 😇. Merry Christmas and thanks for making amazing products.
Beautiful climbing and such commitment climbing in the snow, inspires me to stop being a wimp and brave some colder conditions 😂
Quelle élégance ! C'est bien plus intéressant à regarder (et à grimper j'imagine) que ces grandes caves déversantes modernes où les mouvements se font par à-coups ! "L'intérêt de la grimpe c'est pas uniquement passer" disait Edlinger.
Really cool!!
Great video
Iam watching this an it just made my hole day so much better ,iam asking myself if I want to hike a trail of watch more climbing videos,um choices
See those 3 swallow nests under that ledge ,cool
That move at 7:59 !!! so good.
I love how not being the spectacular and physical style of the most famous lines this is more beautiful as you see the grade of technique and precision needed
I love the Arcteryx films and stories of people they present.
Great climb; I can see the work and training that went into that climb. OK not all the footage was from your successful accent - but I've never seen a climbing video where that was the case. I liked seeing that you had to work on it; it was outside your comfort zone; but you got there in the end.
Iain
Best footwork I’ve ever seen.
I’m hooked
Magic la vidéo.
6:02 really liked the editing there
Nina sempre fantastica
My crimps look like jugs after watching that
Молодец!!!
Way to go! I tried 5.13 there and got shut DOWN!
Delicate and beautiful!
Blimey, I think if I managed to get to the top of that route, I'd stay there for a bit, savouring it, rather than just lowering straight back down!
This was amazing! But to whoever made this amazing video, isn't it possible to upload 4K so I can watch this in full glory?!
That's one beautiful slab! Are there more routes like this one in that crag in the 7+ range? Would love to try some.
yes there are, you should go, it's a rad place
Whenever I go to the USA this will definitely will be on my checklist. Thanks for the reply! And rad send, by the way! Beautiful technique.
Nina sos hermosaaaaaaaaaaaaa😊 saludos desde Colombia
well done video
Thank you! If you liked it, you can watch "Orbayu" our other video with Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat.
What is that music at 7:00 ? Nina seems to have all the great soundtracks in her Videos :D
searching as well
Yeah, I would also love to know!
A dream line!! with one of the best intros I've seen in a climbing movie. Very unfortunate that there is little (or zero) footage from the actual send. (I'm guessing only the few seconds with the fix line is from the send)
all the images where I'm wearing a red pullover are from the actual send
NICE
What happens when someone finishes a route like this? Do they just rappel down and leave the quick-draws? Are those quick-draws just left on the route permanently?
kobenoyashi
No you recollect them and someone put them in place beforehand
I don’t watch a lot of women sport climbing but I enjoyed this one. Alex Puccio is usually my go to female climber
7:58 those 3 nests in the right corner. Definitely not a "high traffic area"!!
what's the purpose of the sanding paper at 5:47?
Sanding off the excess of a callus.
While crimping hard in cold temps, the skin on your joints could split off and then you would bleed. To avoid that, you sandpaper off the hard and dead skin at that spot. But anyways, it's a pain in the ass somehow...;-)
Ok merci de ta réponse Nina!
Peut-être qu'un jour j'aurai la chance de me poncer les doigts !
Definitely, Arc'teryx movies are something else ... (congrats to Nina by the way :))
How all climbing videos should be
Can someone in the world climb this route onsight or red point without yet fixed gear ? I don´t believe that! Fantastic workout!
Ondra didn't onsight it, so I think it's unlikely anyone else can right now.
🏇🇹🇷💯
And who put the slings?
Two different shoes at 7:32 and at 7:40? Vapor vs from below and vapor laces from above. I understand the necessity of a story line and different angles in order to make it a good film, but just some slightly uncut footage of the actual send would be rad. It feels more like a big company production when the purity of the amazing line is lost. Regardless, sick send!!!
The day when it was snowing I sent, I had to give two burns. So on the first try (red pullover) I was wearing a vapor and on my secont burn (also in the red pullover) I had to wear another pair of shoes because you need such a stiff shoe for that route, that after one go you have to change shoe. That was hard to deal with.... So I've been filmed live on my first go where I had two falls (on a static rope) and then on the actual send from the bottom. So we used that two angles to edit the actual send. If you^re not happy with that, so then sorry...
I really appreciate the answer! I honestly hadn't thought of that and knowing that the climb was that dependent on little things makes it that much more cool. I'll keep that in mind when watching other climbing videos because that makes it that much more awe inspiring. - Love from the States
It's a short movie, not video proof of a sent. It's understood (and accepted within the community) that you have to "mount" a film based on different shots and the director's taste. Think of it more like an artistic approach instead of factual.
@@Iszil I think in general it would be nice to have a statement at the end clarifying this. On all films, not just this one (because almost all films have reenactments, splices from failed attempts, etc). Honnold's Free Solo film is a rare exception.
@@jrblackify 😂 no take 2
Most scary bit of the route at 7:27. The three wasp hives pointing at your face on the RHS top corner. That is why zero degrees is the best temperature for the route. No way you are climbing there on warm wheather. Jees!!!!!!
Those are cliff swallow nests
@@markstevenson6635 yes you are right.
Are those wasps nests at 7:45?
I think they are birds nests. the holes are pretty big.
Was he wearing belay glasses?
yes
Are there birds nests at the right of the route at 8:02 ?
In Germany climbing would be forbidden by the authorities. Probably at the complete rock :-/
Yeah, looks like swallows nests. If they were endangered, then the park would close the entire area during nesting season most likely.
amiguitaaaaaaa todo bien pero la cadena se chapa de la última toma izquierda!!!! game over, cadena chapada fuera de la línea. esa vía la escale en el 2014 miamiauuuu
Bravo Nina ! Inspiring and always smiling ! @senasplage on instagram
Who is the guy giving beta and belaying?
I saw his chub. He liked the view from behind.
Booooooring! Zzzzzz, zzzzzz, zzzzzzzzzz......
Then get the fuck outta here