Guys note this. I was using RO/DI since day 0 yet I always had a bit of algae and diatoms in my tank (even 4 years later). No matter how many water changes I made nothing would help. I blamed the salt yet changing salts didn't help either. It dawned to me that it might be something else. Bought a handheld TDS meter and voila, found out that my bucket was leaching.
14:44 onwards brought up some really good considerations about DI-only. A question it raises is, *which if any contaminants that matter to a reef could evade the filter stages if only RO is omitted from the systems aquarists use?* By my understanding a good quality carbon block should knock out volatile organics, chlorine and most of the common x-cides (not certain), with the only possibly-reef-unfriendly things getting through being bacteria and viruses (not normally a problem in town water), and the cat-/anions (usually knocked out by the DI resin).
Love your tests. Why didn’t you test the blue basic HM that’s fitted on the osmosis in the video? I have those, reading zero tds both after membrane, first di and second and I had aluminum etc according to icp-lab test
Cool tests.. And great findings.. Along with something I have known about my water. Especially silica.. In my area, silica is a major problem and always has been.. But for silica removal, what is your solution, or suggestion?
I use the triple inline meter along with the COM-100 to confirm results. I used to use the small $15 brown pen but it never gave the same reading. With the COM-100, for TDS, did you run it under NaCl or micro siemens? Also, I've found that you need to hold the pen in the water for about 2 mins for it to read exactly because the temperature reading takes a bit to get to where it should be. Also, was this just cold water, or around 77 degree water from the tap?
So I noticed when you talked about changing on the DI resin the resin color was separate, but the same basic colors that the rest originally is. I regularly notice my resin separates very quickly, and I do verify my RO membrane is knocking everything down by 98% with a TDS meter, is this due to not packing the resin tight enough? If so how do I know when it's actually used up?
You should also send some of that sample water into the lab for testing to see what is left behind after the RO/DI purification. I've always wanted to know what really remains in the product water (that I also drink) :)
BulkReefSupplyCom yes to drinking di! I take out as much as i can + ozonate, then add back in electrolytes. I can't get behind the assumption that leaving out the di stage makes the water healthier for you in any way. As a matter of fact, without knowing exactly what is in the source water, you can't really make any assumptions besides the ro-di has less of both the good and the bad stuff. Right?
Just noticed my water going out is now testing at 0.02 from my Ro/di unit. I have always been at 0.00. What levels should I replace? Is this level going to make a difference?
If you've gone from 0 to 2 TDS out, you most likely have to replace your DI resin. If you've never done that before, Randy has a helpful video to show you how to pack the DI resin into the cartridge properly 🙂 czcams.com/video/v5m3kbyepJc/video.html
i got a zetlight 6600 from amazon but the ac/dc power adepter is not present in the box.do i have to buy it seprately or dere is some mistake of amazon in there??
i got 0 tds water for my tank and fill my drinking water with DI water .. why is it not good to drink di water ?? i got a carbon filter after it. di water dont taste good but the carbon after does
I just bought The In Out Overflow for my 40Breeder. What return pump would you recommend doesn’t have to be brand but size. I’m lost. Lol help! Thanks always count on you guys. I just posted a new vid see if you like it 👍🏼👌🏼#KeepReefing
General rule of thumb is 5-10x tank volume through the sump. Look for a pump that produces 200-400 GPH at the head height it will be pumping. If it were me, I'd buy the Vortech S1 or M1.
Guys note this. I was using RO/DI since day 0 yet I always had a bit of algae and diatoms in my tank (even 4 years later). No matter how many water changes I made nothing would help. I blamed the salt yet changing salts didn't help either. It dawned to me that it might be something else. Bought a handheld TDS meter and voila, found out that my bucket was leaching.
Great vid, you guys put such awesome content out, although you referred to ammonia as an element which it isn't, just a heads up ;)
14:44 onwards brought up some really good considerations about DI-only. A question it raises is, *which if any contaminants that matter to a reef could evade the filter stages if only RO is omitted from the systems aquarists use?* By my understanding a good quality carbon block should knock out volatile organics, chlorine and most of the common x-cides (not certain), with the only possibly-reef-unfriendly things getting through being bacteria and viruses (not normally a problem in town water), and the cat-/anions (usually knocked out by the DI resin).
Awesome videos! If you haven’t done one already you should make a video on how to restore your DIY resin.
We've thought about that and while it can be done, the chemicals involved can be dangerous if you're not familiar with using them.
Great video! I have always wondered just how pure is 0 TDS RO/DI water is, but I was too lazy to research it myself. Thanks BRS!
Im getting 0 TDS! Thanks BRS great video as always.
Nice video - really interesting.
crazy knowledge man
i always thought the yellow beads were just blue beads that already changed color due to air exposure or something. that's good to know :P
Love your tests. Why didn’t you test the blue basic HM that’s fitted on the osmosis in the video? I have those, reading zero tds both after membrane, first di and second and I had aluminum etc according to icp-lab test
Cool tests.. And great findings.. Along with something I have known about my water. Especially silica.. In my area, silica is a major problem and always has been.. But for silica removal, what is your solution, or suggestion?
Great video! Can't wait to see the chloromine video. You guys are awesome!
My water going in Rodi is 6 but coming out it's saying 0
I would take the used one if I had a option.
Where did you get the RO/DI water containers?
I use the triple inline meter along with the COM-100 to confirm results. I used to use the small $15 brown pen but it never gave the same reading. With the COM-100, for TDS, did you run it under NaCl or micro siemens? Also, I've found that you need to hold the pen in the water for about 2 mins for it to read exactly because the temperature reading takes a bit to get to where it should be. Also, was this just cold water, or around 77 degree water from the tap?
So I noticed when you talked about changing on the DI resin the resin color was separate, but the same basic colors that the rest originally is. I regularly notice my resin separates very quickly, and I do verify my RO membrane is knocking everything down by 98% with a TDS meter, is this due to not packing the resin tight enough? If so how do I know when it's actually used up?
Damn son, sounds like you have some nasty water up there. I'd hook up a RO system to your drinking water as well.
You should also send some of that sample water into the lab for testing to see what is left behind after the RO/DI purification. I've always wanted to know what really remains in the product water (that I also drink) :)
BulkReefSupplyCom yes to drinking di! I take out as much as i can + ozonate, then add back in electrolytes. I can't get behind the assumption that leaving out the di stage makes the water healthier for you in any way. As a matter of fact, without knowing exactly what is in the source water, you can't really make any assumptions besides the ro-di has less of both the good and the bad stuff. Right?
Just noticed my water going out is now testing at 0.02 from my Ro/di unit. I have always been at 0.00. What levels should I replace? Is this level going to make a difference?
If you've gone from 0 to 2 TDS out, you most likely have to replace your DI resin. If you've never done that before, Randy has a helpful video to show you how to pack the DI resin into the cartridge properly 🙂
czcams.com/video/v5m3kbyepJc/video.html
i got a zetlight 6600 from amazon but the ac/dc power adepter is not present in the box.do i have to buy it seprately or dere is some mistake of amazon in there??
BulkReefSupplyCom actually i m from india ....do u all ship in india
i got 0 tds water for my tank and fill my drinking water with DI water .. why is it not good to drink di water ?? i got a carbon filter after it. di water dont taste good but the carbon after does
One thing you have missed is that Conductivity measurements are temperature affected, unless using Specific conductivity.
my brs di resins have never changed color even after 1.5 years is this normal? My psi is 90 and i have a 60g tank
Hey! How much water do you make a month? After 6 months of making 20 gallons a month, I lost about 10% of resin so you should see some change
4,376th!!!
My tds meter is reading 0 in and 0 out. That can’t be true. I have your 4 stage unit and tds meter so that causes some concern for me.
What is your source water reading at? This is likely very low, and could be possible if getting around a 99% rejection rate!
Bulk Reef Supply my source water is reading 0.
I just bought The In Out Overflow for my 40Breeder. What return pump would you recommend doesn’t have to be brand but size. I’m lost. Lol help! Thanks always count on you guys. I just posted a new vid see if you like it 👍🏼👌🏼#KeepReefing
General rule of thumb is 5-10x tank volume through the sump. Look for a pump that produces 200-400 GPH at the head height it will be pumping. If it were me, I'd buy the Vortech S1 or M1.
BulkReefSupplyCom I went with the Sicce 3.0 what you think??
Perfect choice.
"preform" ;)
Conductivity. :P
2nd lol