How to fix dull areas in your wall paint. Eliminate paint flashing.
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- čas přidán 21. 04. 2023
- A fast and simple way to eliminate those dull spots in your paint job and give your walls a professional look. No special tools required. I'll show you how to fix one of the most common painting fails done by both DIYers and professionals.
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Bullseye 123 Primer: www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-B...
6 in. All in One Roller Kit: www.amazon.com/Foam-Paint-Rol...
9 in. Paint Roller Set: www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush-...
Paint Brush Set: www.amazon.com/Wooster-Pro-0H...
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I appreciate the tips… looked up how to fix paint flashing and you were the first vid.
#1 ... WooHoo! Thanks for watching and good luck with your project.
Thanks very much for your information, that’s what I was looking for and you had all the information. May God bless you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this. I will be priming the mudding where I have just enclosed a previous door opening. If I prime only the area where the door once was is it going to look different than the rest of the wall? Wondering if I need to prime the whole wall.
As long as the rest of the wall was properly painted previously, you shouldn't see a difference, but if you want some piece of mind, and if the wall isn't that big, you can prime the whole wall. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
So you just rolled primer on the dull spots? Did you spot paint over that or did you repaint the entire wall?
Just spot painted. As long as you have the same paint spot painting will be fine. If you can't get an exact match to the existing paint then you may need to paint the entire wall if you can tell the difference between the new and existing paint. Good luck with your project.
Will this same idea work on furniture that was not primed after using wood putty?
Not too sure since I don't typically do furniture work, but I would assume it would work the same. the primer is there to seal the repaired or raw surface to allow the paint to achieve a amore uniform appearance. Would not work if you're staining the furniture, but when painting I can't see why it wouldn't provide the same results. Thanks for watching.
I messed up 😭 I removed our chair rail and spackled it, but I didn’t prime before I painted it dark 😭 (going from beige to Iron Ore SW). I also sanded it well (or so I thought) and I couldn’t feel the seams..well, now I can after the 2nd coat of paint!
Now I can see where the chair rail was, I’m assuming because the spackle soaked in the paint differently. Should I sand the chair rail area since I can see the seams (once it’s dry), prime the chair rail areas then just paint the wall again Even though I just added the new color?
If there's any imperfections(seams, dents, etc) in the wall and/or texture you want to take care of them first, then you can prime and paint it. If you don't take care of the imperfections, you can prime and paint (even tho you've already painted once) and it will take care of the flashing but you'll still see the imperfections.
@@thewoggerswaydiy thanks for the reply! So if I do see imperfects, such as seams, I can still sand them down then prime and paint right?
@@lilrada01 Depending on the imperfection, you may need to mud or tape & mud and then sand ... if there's is a texture on the wall (orange peel, knockdown, etc) you would need to apply the texture to blend the repair into the surrounding areas. Once all the patching, texturing and sanding is complete, then prime and paint
Does the spray work as good? I won’t need a whole gallon or even a quart 😅
Yes. The Kilz original spray primer is excellent for this (red can. Home Depot SKU 822388). This is an oil based spray primer that will give you excellent results.
Do you have to use primer or will doing an extra coat of paint work?
Prime first. Flashing will "bleed" through additional coats of paint. The best way to stop the flashing is to prime over the area. Thanks for watching.
Did you have to sanding before you putting the primer?
Depends. If it's a fresh patch or fresh texture applied then a light sanding should be done. If you're just getting rid of flashing from prior painted area then no, you don't need to sand if there's no imperfections in the wall. Just prime and then paint. Thanks for watching
Particleboard walls, riddled with small holes, a F-ton of patching, primed with Kilz original oil base, had a friend helping (off and on) and for some reason unknown to me while my focus was elsewhere, he started patching a section some more after it had been primed 2 days prior 🤷♂️ ! Went over it with 2 coats topcoat, still see flashing where he patched, got hold of some water based Zinsser primer, took my 3” roller and spot primed the flash, next day, same primer, busted out the 9” and rolled the whole wall. Now I have like the opposite of flash. Everywhere I spot primed with the 3” is darker than the rest of the wall. I’m tired of dealing with this one wall when all the other walls look great…please, if ya got the time, and ya got the knowledge, what’s my next best plan of action?
Roll the entire wall again but this time use the Zinsser Shellac-Based primer. That will cover everything across the entire wall so your top coat should have a uniform appearance throughout. While this provides excellent coverage, you can enhance it by tinting the primer. Just have them tint it slightly lighter than your top coat and you're guarantied a awesome paint job. Just make sure to provide plenty of ventilation since the shellac primer is quite strong. It also dries very quickly allowing you to top coat sooner. Good luck with your project.
@@thewoggerswaydiy thanks man, I genuinely appreciate what you’re doing
@@c-note4146 Did it work for you?
@@MessyyMissyy it did, in a sense. I’ll elaborate: before I started the project, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of Kilz Original oil based white primer. So instead of spending more money on the recommended shellac base, I decided to chance it with what I had left over from the Kilz and didn’t tint it, and it worked better than I expected. Additionally, since a single coat of that stuff over what had already been done that I mentioned in my original comment, I found that I didn’t need to go any further and left it like that. However, in the future, I’ll likely acquire another gallon of this semigloss paint that I had used on the opposing wall just so it matches a little better. But in reality, this space is a garage/shop space with particle board walls, so a $20 can of semigloss is not high on my priority list and I would just as soon leave it as is which was certainly enough to rid of the flashing. I didn’t even spot coat first, just a single coat on the entire wall (29’x12’ if it makes a difference). But if this was in my living quarters, I would definitely go over it with a couple coats of that semigloss. Hope this helps.
@@MessyyMissyy oh I forgot to mention: anytime I’m using that oil based stuff, like Woggers recommended, I make sure there’s plenty of ventilation but in addition to that, I highly recommend using a respirator with cartridges rated OV/P100. Please do yourself a favor and use this. I had no idea how strong this stuff was the first time I used it because when I had done the research before starting the project, I had read about this level of protection being recommended, and I couldn’t smell a thing, not even a little bit…until the end of the night when I took it off as I walked out of the room, turned around at the doorway for one last look and nearly choked over the pungent aroma. I do not exaggerate on how well that level of respirator works. Edit: I just realized the acronym of your handle, lol, clever. And cuz the “miss” part, I assume there’s no facial hair, but the respirator doesn’t seal to the face if there is any (for anyone else who may read this)