HOW TO GET SHARP PHOTOS WITH ANY CAMERA!
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
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My name is Simon d'Entremont and I'm a professional wildlife and nature photographer from Eastern Canada.
In this video, I'll reveal my sharpness tricks and how to diagnose your own sharpness issues, all with the lenses you use today. By the end of this video, I'm confident you'll be able to take sharper photos, showing off the clarity and details that will reveal the full splendor of your subject!
My equipment:
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FLM Tripod (CP 34 L4 II) and Levelling Head (HB 75) www.flmcanada.com?aff=sdentrem
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There are scammers pretending to be me and offering prizes via telegram. Stay away and report them! Thanks!
I did like this video and also subscribed to your channel, you deserve a 100K on CZcams ;) Because some of your tips in this clip made me rethink the way I shoot images with my Nikon
they told me I won and I just have to send them $300 for the shipping fee's. But that sounds fair, I mean they are sending me a 85" OLED TV for free so I don't mind paying them for the shipping.... I cant wait to get my new 4k 85" tv. I even sent them an extra $200 for faster shipping, the guy was so helpful to tell me about the quicker shipping method, he didn't have to waste his time talking to me and helping me. So is isn't you exactly its one of your employee's. Thought he said it was you. He even proved it was you by making me send him a screen shot of the comment that I won.... Proof is in the pudding....
@@michael-4k4000 You should send them extra $300 for even faster shipping!🤣🤣🤣
@@gunners6034 Yeah he should send them a grand--probably get it three days ago and delivered by two babes in bikinis. 😁😁😁
@@michael-4k4000Those guys are so kind, it's unbelievable. Thank God there is at least one good man in Sodom. I pray for him both night and day, almost obsessively.
I'm a photography teacher and I very rarely manage to get through CZcams videos because they're usually full of utter tripe, this is very good, watched the whole thing and all of it is sound advice.
I really appreciate that!
If you are a teacher what new you got from this dude? The answer is nothing, unless you are a complete amature
@@skunksmirch7185 A nice easy to understand video to pass on to my students.
@@skunksmirch7185 Additionally, having just looked at it again, the bloke is a wildlife Photographer. I'm not a wildlife photographer by any stretch of the imagination and I'm not so full of myself to think, that there's nothing to learn from this bloke. He may have easily had some nuggets of information that are a part of his specialism, that I'm not familiar with. Moreover, a lot of my students are interested in Wildlife Photography and might appreciate his knowledge. Having watched it, I liked his delivery and his explanations and thought that's done really well. Hence my appreciation of his video. Having taken pictures since 1972 on all formats from 110 up to 10x8 I'm still open to learning new stuff.
@@skunksmirch7185 I someone is a GOOD teacher, he will always learn something somewhere... Someone who does not understand this usually does not know much (but he thinks he knows everything...)
We amateur photographers as we photograph occasionally are always forgetting these basic rules and are left wondering why the photos are not perfectly sharp. Here you showed with practicality and simplicity the main mistakes we made.
Absolutely! I was anxious when I was taking a shot with my new camera and unconsciously stabbed the shutter release. Thought my autofocus didn’t work, didn’t think about me causing camera movement. After watching his video I played around with my camera and found that being gentle with the shutter release can make a big difference in a sharp image. Now I’m going start using my elbows for hand held shots. I’m learning so much more from these videos.
Same issue with me. So I have created a checklist and check it everytime I start shooting, it reads like this:
Set Custom White Balance[ take pic of white photo]
Menu -> Custom White Balance
Info -> WB
++
Set lcd screen brightness to see the screen in bright daylight:
When you shoot a lot of photos in a bright sunny environment you can always set the highest LCD brightness on your CANON Camera to achieve the best screen readability.
Menu ->LCD brightness
++
Set picture style
++
and so on. Checklist really helps.
I've found recently if I need stability then a monopod is really useful for sharp images when you want to travel a bit lighter and not carry a tripod. It doubles up as a walking stick too.@@OnTheRiver66
I've been in the image and content generation game for 25 years and this is by far the best channel on CZcams. This channel excels not only in terms of raw information and accuracy but delivery of content and production.
Thank you for these videos they are fantastic and helping me communicate to other people through issues they are having and this is one of the few channels I trust to have very succinct and accurate information with very good descriptions as to why things are the way they are. It's the kind of instruction that can only come from somebody who not only intimately knows their craft, but also understands why things are the way they are from a historical perspective.
My hot take: you're a better teacher than a photographer. And clearly you're an amazing photographer. I'm currently binging all of your videos, thanks for doing what you do.
My biggest challenge... realising my 'diopter adjustment' had made my viewfinder unfocussed and me not realising! Took me ages to realise!
oh dear!
I've known lots of people who think it's their eyesight making the viewfinder blurry. I think the diopter is a little known option from the 35mm film days.
Great point. I had my cataracts done at the end of last year, haven’t altered the diopter. I will do so tomorrow.
Thanks for the reminder.
I'm a professional wedding videographer and I always look in youtube for new ideas and something I might be missing. Mostly it's not the case, but in this video I found a good checklist to improve my work. Especially the overcast lack of sharpness, I didn't knew that. Thanks for the great content and keep it up!
I've been taking pictures for most of my life, even in small "professional" capacities as well, but I'm always open to improvement and tips from real pros because I know there are always ways to improve. I've recently discovered your channel, and I've gotta say, it's so refreshing to find someone who actually has this level of skill, but isn't snobby about it and is willing to admit fault. Nobody is a perfect photographer, there will always be some bad shots, but it's nice to see someone who does take incredible shots and is willing to not only admit it, but share them as a learning experience with others. I also love how descriptive you are of everything instead of just assuming everyone already knows all the terminology and proper manual settings for every occasion. You've got yourself a new sub, thanks!
This is genuinely one of the best and most helpful videos on this subject I've seen. Concise, to the point, and with a few tips I'd not seen elsewhere. Thank you!
Been a hobbyist for about 50 years. Very helpful instructions. The pics you shared are beautiful. Made me jealous. I’ll get some better shots thanks to you and won’t have to delete so many fuzzy pics. Thanks again.
I've improved so much as a wildlife photographer because of your videos Simon. Thank you for these posts!
Welcome James!
His Video's have helped me a lot in Local High School Action Sports.
@@tmewborn1 so many of the techniques are the same!
James, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont I'd be honored! :)
Very good advice Simon! The one area where we differ is in direct sunlight versus indirect overcast conditions. I definitely prefer the latter and have no trouble producing sharp images under these conditions. Direct sun is fine early morning or late afternoon/evening but in the middle of the day, particularly when the sun gets higher in the sky, it produces harsh contrast and often an unpleasant shine on the feathers. I think a great example of how amazing indirect sun/overcast conditions are is your super image of the immature Yellow-crowned Night-Heron shown in the video. It is super-sharp but clearly not taken in direct sunlight!
Hi John. Agree on harsh sunlight being the worst. Certainly cloudy is better than harsh sun. As for the heron, I was in the shade on a sunny day. If it would have been cloudy with more reflected and scattered light I think it would have cost me in sharpness.
I love the way you break things down very simple everytime I watch one of your videos it gets me inspired to go out and take more pictures lol keep it coming
You can do it!
Great tips. An additional one regarding technique. I come from a rifle shooting background and as a trained marksman, the standing (weight two-thirds on one front/left leg), holding (as you describe), breathing and shutter rolling (as you describe) techniques are each key. The breathing technique is also important. Take the shot either at the top of the inhale or the bottom of the exhale. As one breathes in/out the upper body moves and with it the camera, but at either the top or bottom of the breath the upper body is momentarily still. That is when to take the picture. It matters less whether one opts for the top of the inhale or bottom of the exhale, but I prefer the former. Hope that helps.
Thanks for sharing! I too shot rifles and archery and breath is important!
I totally agree. I have the same background.
and dont drink caffeine !
Yah. That's good advice.
I find then, the remaining body vibrations, heartbeat, for example, carry over to shake.
Using tripods & cables / remote the preferable. 🌙🐰
For me, exhale(bottom) works better. Seems like my heart rate slows a bit.
I am not a photographer and mainly shoot video but I have to say your tutorials are fantastic. Straight forward and to the point.
This is a really good collection of reasons for blur. As someone who has fought all these effects I really appreciate that you pass on this important information to other photographers. About technique, one of the reasons why I like to use a grip is that it adds some extra mass which helps to keep the camera and lens more stable. I found it's not just about tucking in your arms but also assume a solid pose with your legs spread out a bit and locking up your body, it's a bit like becoming a tripod. I disagree about shooting in direct sunlight, you might get good sharpness but you also have to deal with a high dynamic range so you often end up with either blown out whites or underexposed dark areas. There is a tradeoff here I think. Also colours will pop a lot more in very diffuse light. I like diffuse light as long as there is a lot of it, and if it's not at right angle to you shooting, so during noon would be a bad time.
100 pct agree not shooting in bright full mid-day sun which I mention in lots of other videos.
Simon, I can't thank you enough for the wealth of knowledge you share with us: I went from "OK" pictures (motion blur, low contrast, etc) to some pictures that my friends don't believe I took. Best compliment ever! :)) All pretty much thanks to you! So, if you ever come down south 790 miles to New England, you're invited to an ACME NEIPA beer or a coffee. Thanks again!
Thanks so much!
I'm happy to admit that I'm a novice, but I still learn a lot from your videos.
I like the concise, no-nonsense approach.
Thank you for the work you put into them.
Thank you so much Simon! I was out for photography the last few weeks and since the weather isn't so good in Germany (Wind, Rain, ...) i had issues with sharpness and didn't really know why. Then I saw your video and I didn't really know that weather, light and overcast days had such huge impacts on sharpness of my images. Since I found your channel, I learned a lot of new things in wildlife photography which is really helpful since I startet my "career" in July 2022. Huge thanks, Simon!
Great to hear! Danke!
I am just getting into photography as a hobby, and this advice is very, very much appreciated!! Well done!!
I'm formerly a newspaper freelancer who hasn't taken paid work in ten years and I'm starting to get back into photography these last two years, so your videos are a very helpful find for me. I'll even be dabbling in portrait work, something I haven't really done before.
I knew 95% of this, but I can only perform about 25% before the target has run or flown away. Maybe that's the difference between a pro and an amateur. Very well organized and thorough lesson!
Practice
"I know you can do it".. words to live by. Thanks.
Probably the best video I’ve seen on getting sharp photos. Very informative and explained well. Thank you!
I've been shooting for over a decade and it's still imperative to watch videos like this in my opinion. We often forget the analytics of our basic skills as they become "muscle memory" over time.
thanks so much!
It's just indicates how slow you are, unfortunately...
@@Max-Kramer ohhhhh internet tough guy here.
@@Max-Kramer weirdo
Jared, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
The quality of your content is so high and im learning so much! i recently bought my first full frame camera and you taught me a lot that helped me to become a better photographer. My hat off to you sir! many many thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great to hear!
One other technique that helps is using the rear autofocus button rather than the shutter for focusing. I saw a marked improvement in my photo sharpness after using this technique. Also, make sure the vibration reduction on the lens(VR) is switched on if you are shooting hand held.
Thanks for sharing. I use back-button focus myself.
Do you hold the AF button while you’re taking the shot? Or just press it once? Im on a Fuji xt4 if it’s different on different cameras
Are you talking about “back button” focus?
@@blackice5649 Yes
@@Lukemasonmedia I have the Nikon D850. I hold the back AF button down while shooting. It works quite well.
Awesome video and great advice. I'm still quite new to photography and I struggled with getting long-range images sharp, and your advice helped me getting my images a lot more sharp when shooting long-range! Thanks!
I did a lot of bird photography in 2020 and struggled with this a lot, and for a while felt I needed a better camera, but in the end, I added a decent flash and started getting better sharpness and colors than I ever thought my 10-year-old camera could deliver. I'll take your other tips into consideration too. Thanks!
Great!
Great advice without getting into the weeds of the highly technical- it gives improving photographers a good toolkit to analyze their technique, their equipment, and deployment. In this way they can identify their own personal challenges and improve. At first I was a bit confused why you did not delve into the digital side- (e.g., adjusting the camera's in-body focus settings,) but, as I've seen in my own photography, this is usually the last place you need to fiddle. And, it can change with the individual lens, I think. Great video!!
Thank you for another fantastic video filled with awesome real world experience and information. I had not heard, "Laboring under correct knowledge" before. Thank you for this. Years ago I was told, "The harder you work, the luckier you will be" and I can say this has been true for me.
Thanks for the tips, even for a general photographer who does it for personal pleasure, it still makes a big difference to know you can improve those shots.
1 more tip - shoot in continous mode, get 3-5 shots series each press of shutter. It helps stabilise when you press/release shutter button. You can be as gentle as you want, you will apply additional pressure or release pressure, which can move your camera. While holding button down you apply constant pressure which wont move your camera so if you move camera with pressing button, it will be stable by the time you make second/third photo.
Great tip!
Never have I ever heard this topic discussed and explained so clearly. Amazing. Thank you.
GREAT point about heat. Im down in sunny Florida and it's a real challenge when shooting dog sports like herding, hunting or even lure coursing. I am disabled and have had to overcome my own shaking, but I also shoot many times laying down which makes panning a real challenge in reducing camera shake.
I’m new to photography, Simon. By watching just a few of your outstanding instructional videos, I believe I’ve taken giant steps forward already. It’s nice to get tips for better photos, but your videos go further in explaining the “why” behind the tip. This is excellent, since knowledge is empowering. I’ve already used the knowledge gained from you to take some bird photos that surprised and delighted me. This has given me big motivation to pursue this hobby further. Keep up the great work. You’re making a difference in the lives of people like me. By the way, I live in a small town in central Wisconsin, near a beautiful glacier lake.
welcome!
Wonderful, thank you! Great refresher and the heat haze/waves, even around a car, was a killer tip. Same as in so many fields, it's the accumulation of positives that contribute to the whole.
Michael, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
The best tip is to go out and take more photos. Great video.
Totally agree!
My dad got me taking pictures. He would tell me to plan my shot before taking out the camera. So to this day when i get to a destination i get out and plan my composition. It becomes an art when you get some great pictures. Excellent video thank-you
Tips on your channel are pure gold
Simon, you are indeed a craftsman of wildlife photography. Just when I thought you had run out of things to teach me, I should have known. Thanks for sharing my friend! I’m still the student and you the master.
Too kind!
Richie, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont yes, of course
Nice video and great tips. My little tip, use a shutter release cable/remote to take pictures. On the releases I have, pushing the button half way down will open the shutter and lift up the mirror (DSLR). Then after a few seconds you can depress the button to actually take the picture. I mostly use this when take night sky / astrophotography or when I am doing macros, both of which I am using a tripod. The mirror movement can cause vibrations that will show up - especially on star pictures.
buy mirrorless XD if and when you can
Use a wireless remote, many cameras can be controlled over WiFi with a smartphone app.
Or use the self timer so the camera/tripod will settle after pressing the shutter button.
Your advice about shooting through a window is spot-on. After receiving my shiny new RF100-500mm L lens, I proceeded to test its sharpness. It was a cold winter day and I was inside shooting through an open window at 500mm. The subject was my mailbox off in the distance. I was dismayed that I couldn't get a sharp image. After many failed attempts, I put the camera on a tripod and used live-view to see what was going on. I disabled stabilization and used manual focus to get the mailbox numbers sharp. Then I watched as the image repeatedly went in/out of focus as I was sitting there doing nothing. After an "ah-ha!" moment, I realized it was due to the heat waves from my warm house, open window, and cold outdoors. I closed the window and the problem was solved.
Thanks Simon for all your videos. Your explanations are always crystal-clear. What was still unclear for me as I watched other videos becomes easy after watching yours. Continue your excellent work, it is highly appreciated. I'm from Montreal Quebec.
Merci JR!
Hey JR, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
I watched all the way through, but to be honest, I’m still none the wiser. I think it’ll take me a long time to understand because there’s so many parameters on my DSLR.It’s a nightmare I will save it to watch again
LOVE your no nonsense approach to education. What a breath of fresh air! Beautiful work! Subscribed.
Rick, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont Sorry Simon, I don't check my messages here often. Yes, please feel free to use my comment in your course and any other material you wish. Great work! Thank you!
This video is definitely awesome! Thank you so much dear Simon for the informative tips, especially the stabilizing tips at the end ❤❤
Thank you for getting straight into it after a short into.
I started wildlife photography about a month ago. I live in Los Angeles and it’s been pretty much nonstop overcast and cloudy since before I started. I’m “satisfied” with my beginner photos with very basic gear, but I really want to see how better light affects the sharpness.
I've watched a lot of CZcams photography tips, and I must commend you on sharing these insightful ways of getting better shots. I immediately tried the recommendations in this video, and have been practicing. Good news is, I can see the images getting better and better. Thank you for sharing!
Clinton, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont No problem at all. You're welcome to 🙂
Sir...if only I had come across your channel a bit earlier, i would have committed far less errors and worked on the technique. Your content and teaching is absolutely brilliant to the point. Thank you very much
Wow, i just learnd so much in under 8 minutes! This was clear, straight to the point valuable lessons for a beginner like me. Thank you so much for this!
4:30 mind: blown. This is the first time I hear someone explaining why smaller apertures produce sharper images. Great video!
Thanks!
Same here. I was surprised that I hadn't known that already. I always tend to prefer smaller apertures for better depth of field, but I never thought about it for better sharpness. I loved this video.
Be aware that a lens will have a specific aperture where it's at its sharpest. Just because you can go down to f/22 you might find instead that f/9 is where the lens is the sharpest. As the video states, best to find out for yourself through experimentation (or look online for someone else who has done the work).
Also it is not true at all. Look up circle of confusion.
also same, i knew it was that way (i shoot with old md rokkor lenses), but i didnt know why. now it makes total sense :D
I have been making my living with video and still photography for more than three decades. This was the first of your videos I have encountered and I must compliment your presentation, delivery and results. Your tips can be helpful to someone of any experience or skill level. I know I will never know it all, and some of the things I did know you helped me better understand why they are true. Count me as a subscriber and appreciative of your helpful communication.
Wow, thank you!
Yup, I agree.
Frank, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont Simon, I thought I had replied to this but don't see it here. Sorry for that. Please feel free to use my comment as you like.
Love this with examples and going directly to the point!
When the sun is bright outside, I notice I can see clear,even without my prescription lenses than I can on an overcast day without them. It makes sense this would translate over to photography.
Golden hour is my preferred light.
Great Video! Awesome tips. Being an amateur photographer myself, all these tips are very helpful. Keep them coming. Great work.
Glad it was helpful!
This has to be one of the best videos i have watched explaining things that is straight to the point. And everything mentioned just make sense. The way you explained it is just superb.
Dim, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont Sure, glad to help.
Youre posting great videos! This is the best "bird specific" photography channel on the Tube
Thanks Simon
Thanks very much!
Walter, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
Where are my viewers from? Let me know where you live! I’d love to know!
Kent in the UK. Keep up the great content.
Good Day Simon, I'm over in Ontario Canada, How's thing in Nova Scotia? Hoping to visit there soon
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia… another great video!
Lancashire, UK
Gander, Newfoundland! I love your content, and photography. It's very inspirational.
So appreciate your clear and thoughtful instruction. You do cover a lot in short order though so I have to watch twice to make sure I "get it". Thanks soo much from Oregon.
You are so welcome!
I look forward to all of your photos and click the like for you. It is the least we can do for the valuable content you share. I’m in London, Ontario and I think you have very clear concise information in all your videos. Greatly appreciated!
Awesome! Thank you!
Good refresher tips for us pros and amateurs alike. Having shot pro for decades, it's always a good reminder to stay in good practice with some techniques. Over the years I've gotten away from using a tripod doing outdoor scenic photography - tending to rely on the VR on my Nikkor lens, elbows-in and other little techniques to stabilize. But when going back over shots from many years ago I notice my tripod shots had a slight more tack sharpness to them that I seem to have lost these days. So I'm dusting off the Manfrotto more often and trying to get back into the habit again of including it in my kit. Cheers from Niagara Falls, Ont. Great vid!
Thanks very much!
Hey Silentknight, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont By all means, sure...be my guest. I'd be pleased by the inclusion.
Hello Simon,
This is a wonderful lesson on sharpness. I will refer it to my students as you taught it better than I can. My thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Simon, you are a great gift to the photography world.
Love your Videos. The More I watch, the more I learn and it's demystifying the camera that then leads to great photos.
Great Video! Every Photographer could use this no matter what stage he's at. It's also a good refresher! Thank You Simon. Murph.
Glad it was helpful!
Murph, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont Sure, Happy to help.
I just discovered you channel, and I must say that you are on of the best, and most knowledgeable photographers on CZcams.
Appreciate that
Wow, I have talkes with numerous experts on the subject - I had no idea why my pictures remained unfocussed when adressing moving objects, until now: the wrong autofocus. No one yould tell this to me. Thank you!
One stabilization technique that I sometimes use is that I attach my tripod, which weighs maybe about 3 kilograms, to my camera, in folded position. I can grab the folded-up tripod with my left arm and the SLR body with my right hand, and press them against my chest and my head. Whether I am panning on something, or just trying to hold the camera steady at a fixed direction, camera shake is greatly reduced by the weight, bulk and added support that the folded-up tripod provides.
i’ve stuck the bottom of my monopod onto my belt buckle…works!
All outstanding recommendations. As an experienced amateur photographer, I learned a few things here. One other thing I suggest is using a shorter lens whenever possible. The longer the lens the more you'll see movement, and will require faster shutter speeds to compensate.
Agree!
Very informative! I’ve been shooting a long time and it’s always helpful to hear these things over again, just to reinforce the information in my mind ❤
Simon: Another great vlog! I always learn a lot from your videos. I really appreciate your instructional vlog's. All everyone else seems to do is equipment reviews. As your vlogs points out, it is the person behind the equipment that makes the most difference. Keep up these great instructional videos.
Glad you enjoyed it
With DSLR cameras you also may have to do the Micro AF adjustment with your lens and camera bodies if it's front or back focusing. The fact that I don't have to do this anymore with mirrorless cameras was worth it for me to move to mirrorless, but I did hold onto my 1DX because, well, it's a tough body.
So true! It is nice to not worry about it.
The single biggest advantage of mirrorless in my opinion, and there are many. I would futz around and futz around with a micro adjustment on my digital SLR. I would think I had it, and my wife would look at it and say "looks a little back focused to me!" Then I would futz some more!! Like a six-way power seat in a car I was never happy!
Glad someone mentioned Micro AF adjustment. I recently purchased a used, highly acclaimed, F1.4, "Nifty Fifty" and was very disappointed with it's sharpness. I purchased an inexpensive dslr auto focus target and found the lens was badly front focusing. After adjustment the lens is now tack sharp.
@@rudysnell5079 It's definitely worth testing all EF lenses to see if Micro AF is needed or to tweak that very last bit of focusing. What system did you use?
@@Methodical2 Actually it was a Sigma Art 50mm f/1.4 on a 6D body. The necessity for Micro AF adjustment with that lens is not uncommon.
I'm shooting film (usually street stuff). But then, I'm thinking of maybe trying out wildlife photography sometime. And just for people like me there is a deeply modified Soviet Zenit camera commonly known as "Photographic Rifle". Basically it's a modified Zenit with a sniper rifle-like stock, and shutter button hooked up to the trigger. It looks convenient for this kind of stuff. I guess I'll try it out sometime, even though its a bit expensive compared to other Soviet cameras I own (It's around the same price as Praktikas where I live). So I gotta save a bit of money
As a very beginner in photography, I really like your simple and clear explanation, thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Simon, it's Kim from Newfoundland, thanks for the tips. Finding good light this time of year is really difficult, I spend time on the east coast which surprisingly has been having better weather than the west coast lately. Winter photography is even more difficult with consistent grey days. Light is everything. Thanks for your videos, I find them helpful and reassuring.
I know what you mean about poor winter light! Thanks!
One more thing to check: the resolution and or quality level (depending on your digital camera) of the saved jpeg/raw image. If you have an older digital camera, this is where you may see a longer lapse of time between shots because the camera's CPU may be lagging between shots.
I would say, just raw. Why JPEG? By the way, JPEG as a standard is dead a long time ago.
@@Micro-MooJPEG, like MP3, is outdated by a couple decades but here to stay.. at least webp's and avif's and such are getting use online on web pages that you don't realize
@@mikafoxx2717 «getting use online on web pages that you don't realize...» Who do you think doesn't realize it? The WebP problem is a low pixel format, only 8 bits per channel.
This was a great video I've been shooting for about 15 years starting off in highschool, and i never taken a class. But the highlights for me were;
1. I didn't know the center of the F stops was the sharpest part of the lense, it 💯 makes sense but this is just something that no one has flat out old me. 2. How to hold the camera and how to move with it. 3. How to physical take that shot, by rolling over my fingers to avoid vibration by aggressively jabbing at the button. Your shots are incredible, besides that it's clear that you are a real professional and have a lifelong passion of shooting! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!
Welcome!
Best channel ever. I am capable at many genres of photography and just recently bought an old tamron 200-500mm lens for my a7iii and watched tens of videos of yours before going out shooting some ducks. Oh man! Instant Quality on my first take on wildlife! Now it's more a matter of getting better poses and getting some more solo action while their flapping their wings around. So much fun but this genre is so tiring i couldn't believe it. I almost felt as tired as when i was going fishing. Good stuff! Thank you very much Simon
Excellent!
Biggest tip for me, and the most frustrating to discover, was stopping down my lenses! I have found the sweet spot on all my lenses, through trial shooting, and it made a HUGE DIFFERENCE!!
Right!
NO MATTER HOW EXPERIENCED I AM, YOUR SUGGESTIONS ARE USEFUL REMINDERS. YOU ARE DOING GREAT SERVICE TO THE PROFESSIONAL PASSIONATE PHOTOGRAPHERS.
THANKS A LOT.
DILIP KUMAR PENTU
Dilip, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
All valid tips and good to know.
I would add that investing into good lenses is a must and good does not automatically mean high price. There are lenses that have surprising image quality/price relation.
Using same/similar holding and shutter release techniques, I can occasionally go down about 2-4 stops below accepted limit (ie. shutter speed equal or greater than focal length).
My personal preference is external LCD/LED screen because it helps me frame better than using viewfinder and is also helpful (tilting and turning) when shooting from awkward positions.
For my current old camera (Sony A55), I've disabled all image stabilization features. Those simply did not work well enough or even introduced shake (like, on tripod). Newer cameras probably fare much better.
Thanks for sharing!
I learned a great deal. d'Entremont speaks succinctly and to the point and makes practical suggestions for improvement. In the future I plan to preview more of his tutorials.
Thanks very much!
James, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
My bonus tip:
When shooting a moving object shoot in burst mode because at least one of every five images will be in focus.
Camera dependant of course.
True! I cover that in some of my other videos, like how to shoot birds in flight.
I also do that! One mistake I learned from was not to be zoomed up too close, your picture can be custom cropped later but you need the full object in there to start with!
@@Nortonsnorton
Exactly 👍
It's also cheaper (in the long run) and more practical to buy a slightly more expensive camera with double the megapixels like a Sony Alpha 7R V where you no longer need to spend thousands of dollars on lenses because you can now crop the image to your heart's content.
Those are very solid and well founded tips Simon! I tried to apply them last Sunday, but only partially succeeded when shooting a kingfisher. In decent light, I could use 1/2000 at ISO 3200, using my 420-700 wide open at F10. While the bird was sitting the sharpness was perfect, allowing me to confirm statements from Jan Wegener and Duade Paton the 100-500 with TC1.4 doesn't require stopping down.
However: when the kingfisher made his dive, I got a few great shots where I didn't really observe motion blur, but yet it wasn't nearly as sharp as while he was sitting still.
In hindsight, I think I should have stepped down to F13 or F14, because as good as the R5 eye-AF is, it was trailing the fast dive, so I guess he was no longer in my focal plane (which actually isn't a flat plane but rather a shell of a big sphere around me). Could you confirm this assumption from your experience ??
And I'm watching you from Belgium.
The focal plane is pretty flat at long focal lengths. The issue is probably one of accurately tracking the movement of the bird. You need to follow its speed accurately to continue to get sharp pics.
@@simon_dentremont The flatness of the focal plane is indeed one issue, but this can be adapted by stopping down the aperture (at some cost of course).
He was at about 33m, but he dives so sudden I was already happy to be feathering the shutter at right moment. He's so fast I doubt attempting to sudden follow his dive (and manual track him) is nearly impossible.
I'm using AF sensitivity settings which I picked up from Jan and so far it served me well in many conditions. Maybe in this specific case with little distractions, I should have tried more aggressive AF settings ?
I was always afraid of using manual mode, but after seeing this, I think I have to try this. Thanks so much for the instruction!
I am still at a very low skill level. For me using shutter priority has been the entry to becoming more creative. Not long ago I found myself thinking "Hmm, in full manual I could do this and that now..." So I did it, the camera didn't explode and it felt natural. I think feeling comfortable about it just comes over time.
UK here, thank you for this channel. It firms and sharpens old knowledge with some nice new gems to be discovered.
Welcome!
When I worry about camera movement I like to use a 2 second timer, so I don't have to worry how hard I press the shutter button.
Dont know about modern cameras, but my old Canon 1100d had a remote socket that took in a 2.5mm jack which was common in many earphones back then. You could modify some cheap earphones (with a call receive button) to act like a shutter remote.
Just found your channel a few days ago and I love it. 🎉 You bring everything to the point. Greetings from Germany
Danke!
Thank you, thank you! I've watched your videos for a couple of months, and have learned more than any other photo/camera channel. As an aside, your video and personal style are great.
Wow, thanks!
Awesome videos with great tips probably to anyone, but to returning hobby photographer like me, this is diamond! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I always see photographers out shooting in One Shot (evidence by the beep). I had a conversation with a photographer who was complaining about out of focus images while we were out photographing fishing Eagles. I explained to him the difference between One Shot and Ai Focus. He was unaware of Ai Focus. I had him switch to Ai Focus and had him just track a flying Seagull to see the affects of the focus. He was like a kid in candy store. You'd be amazed that people do not take the time to read the manual or hello go on YT. I sold my friend my 1D4 and he kept having questions, while we were out shooting of course, I tried to help but told him that he needs to spend some time with the manual and YT because I may miss shots yapp'n on camera settings etc. I ok helping but when you don't take the time to help yourself, I'm done.
Haha thanks for sharing!
Be careful of someone offering prizes via telegram in my name! It isn’t me!
Thanks for taking the time to do these instructional videos. I took notes.
Hi Simon!
I watched the whole video and I must admit that it is one of the best. You covered Nearly all the best tips to get the best shot possible for each situation! So thank you!
Yaziman, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
Qustion: Why are you pissed off? You look so angry. I don't even have the audio on and you look mean!!!
lol. I don’t use a telepromter so I go through my script from memory, and I’m concentrating too hard!
I agree. He needs to look less like a sweaty sex offender and more like a photographer. His points are good and his example photos are really good. I use lighting to eliminate hard shadows.
Jesus loves you
Allah does not love
Needed to see that
Yeah? He thinks yer a 🍆🍆🍆
Jesus didn’t have a camera
I thought Jesus walks on water, heals the blind etc camera shouldn’t be a big deal
Excellent explanations! Thanks for this.....love your explanations of micro-contrast and shooting through shimmering air!
Really good points. I am from Calgary, Alberta and have recently started watching your videos. I have improved my image quality by moving from Aperture mode to Manual. Thank you !!
Fantastic!