Drain Pipe Patch
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Drain pipe patch? If you're in a situation where you need to patch a hole in a drain pipe or cover a hole in a vent pipe that you drilled out to snake a drain, this works all the time. Normally I would use a traditional pipe clamp or repair plate to get the job done, but I often fail to keep adequate stock in my van. When this happens I simply take a traditional no-hub coupling and remove the rubber gasket from the stainless sleeve.
Next, I'll make one cut with a blade or scissors turn the rubber inside out, remove the center rubber bead with a good sharp blade, and sand it down flush with my rotary tool. You can now flip it back around and place it over the hole, open both clamps on the stainless sleeve, place it over the rubber gasket and torque it up!
If you have a 60-inch lb. torque wrench, finish it all the way. If not just use a 5/16" socket and 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet wrench and snug it up tight. Check out the video where I'll walk you through the process and please don't forget this applies to drain and vent pipes only and should not be used for pressurized water pipes!
Regards & Happy Plumbing!
Bob
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Nice to hear my thoughts being used to assure my game plan.
AWESOME JOB THANKS
Thanks for viewing! Bob.
Excelent! Just like the Standing waste fix.
I’ll remember this in case I might need it one day 👍
This looks like a brilliant repair fix. Although I would have thought it would be easier to cut the rubber first and then remove the middle stop with the knife with it flat on the table. Nice fix😎
Either or works👍
Think i might just flip it inside out
Great idea !!!!, Thanks for great information
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Bob, I wish you'd come to Queens, too much traffic to get here from Brooklyn huh! Lol. Anyway, have you considered using the smooth side of the rubber gasket instead of the side with the ridges? Save time and hassle trimming the bead. Might be worth a try, I'd experiment with it.
I'd probably still remove the bead so the ss band sits flush, but good idea!
These are very helpful videos-I have a question about a situation you may have experienced and have some ideas on. I have a number of fixtures with the old American standard aqua seal valves-(the ones that look like a little rubber top hat) -sometimes when I replace the washers, the water will not come on at all and I have to disassemble and carefully reassemble and then it usually works. Do you have any idea what can prevent having to do this two or three times? I am pretty handy, but this issue has me stumped.
Ditch the Aqua-Seal stems and use these generic replacements, you won't be sorry! amzn.to/3Z97lTg
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks Bob-are these available as tub/shower size stems? That’s my nemesis; The old American Standard lav faucets were replaced with Delta but, as you know, it’s not so easy to replace a tub valve assembly.
That pipe bead is also call a pipe stop
Thank you very much for sharing.
My pleasure
I use a saddle clamp rubber The 4 by 4 part and Get 2 dryer clamp close the hole or cheaper way number 12 or 14 gage wires from electrical guy on the job😊
I would use rubber sheet instead of a no hub gasket and put that under a no hub stainless jacket.
I just undid mine and don't have a torque wrench, nothing's leaking is it really necessary to use a torque wrench?
If it's not leaking and it's snug, leave it. F.Y.I. I torque all my couplings, but the goal is for a leak free joint.
Worst case scenario buy that rubber tape Flex seal And you're done
If it is a vertical drain pipe, it would seem your repair would last a very, long, time...
That’s mostly how I use it!
Mr. Sessa, kindly, are these couplings difficult to install for a homeowner (somewhat handy, but definitely not a plumber), please? Need to install a Wye (3" with 2" receiving stem) along a 3" PVC toilet waste line for a shower pan drain. There seems very little wiggle room in the 3" pipe (didn't cut it yet). I'd (hope to) use those 'PlumbQwik' (good brandm imho) with the steel reinforcing band on the outside for strength & keep the pipe from sagging (hopefully). I hope I may beg a little of your time and expertise for any comments. They're most appreciated. Thank you so much for your videos. God[Bible] Bless you sir.
What kind of wiggle room? You're going to need to separate the line enough to slip on the stainless steel bands, one upstream and one downstream. Then one end of the rubber onto the pipe (without removing the center bead) and fold over the other end . So if you get your "Y" fitting with your P.V.C. stub outs on each end, install the rubber couplings and then fold the remaining ends on each side. Now measure that distance, can you separate the pipe enough to slip that fitting in and unfold the rubber on each side? If no, then I would call in a pro just to install "Y" the fitting and you can take it from their.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Mr. Sessa, thank you so so much for the kindness of a very descriptive & helpful reply. Most excellent pro advice. I will do as you suggest. Thank you so much. Also, thank you for your videos. God[Bible] Bless all your good endeavors.
I have a 2 inch copper drain that I have to add a tee to but am concerned that I will not get the pipe in both sides of the tee with out adding a cut higher up the line. Can I use something like this to join it again?
I wouldn't use this method on a drain line, I use it on vent lines when I have to drill and snake a drain. If you have some wiggle room and can separate the drain lines, I would fold over both sides of the rubber as much as you can and try your best to fit it in between both sides. Then insert the pipe from both ends and unfold. Make sure to slide the outer band on first or just undo the two torque nuts and place it back over the rubber gasket.
Bob, I've got a dumb? question not related to this video, but you mentioned a Supply House and it made me think of this question. Are the plumbing components/parts/repair kits/etc. that are available at a _REAL_ Supply House different/higher-quality than what's available at the "Big Box" stores & local hardware stores? I really hope that they are, but before I make a long trip to the nearest city big enough to actually have real Supply Houses, I'd like your opinion and those possibly from Commenters here. The parts that I've been able to buy, even apparently "brand-name" parts, seem to fail _way_ too soon, especially the "rubber" parts. I'll drive to the city if that's where I need to go to get decent parts -- assuming they' can and/or will sell "retail" to other than licensed/registered(?) Professional Plumbers.
That would be a BIG YES! For instance, faucets from companies like Delta & Moen which are great products are different animals from the same models bought in a plumbing supply. Mostly plastic components compared to the brass found in a "Plumbing Supply" version. They're made specifically for the "Big Box" stores and that's how they keep the cost down.
I often have customers wanting to supply their own parts in an effort to keep costs down, when I show them the "Plumbing Supply" version they see the difference. Same for repair components, They're often after-market versions that won't stand the test of time. When looking for repair components, I always opt for genuine O.E.M. parts. Unfortunately, even most supply houses are going the "aftermarket" route, so you have to be specific and say you want O.E.M. parts.
Check out www.supplyhouse.com/, a good source for parts and components that I use, but be aware that they also sell aftermarket parts as well. You have to know exactly what it is you're looking for, so be sure to note you want O.E.M. parts! Regards, and thanks for checking out the video. Bob
@@BobsPlumbingVideos ¡Thank you Robert Sessa! God[Bible] Bless all your good endeavors.
A lot of stuff in a good supply house will have better quality parts. Some are the same as big box stores of course, some of it is cheap no matter where you get it... But generally, big yes for difference in quality
How long will the clamp last on pipe? You said it was a temporary fix
Position the cut you make to the rubber opposite the hole you're patching, It'll last for ever!
I have a horizontal 3" drain pipe cracked in the lead joint up in the ceiling would this seal around the joint? I was thinking epoxy putty in crack and this over it for a lasting repair. Thanks
Can you send me a picture? info@robertsessaplumbing.com
Why not cut it first then trim the ridge off
Either way! It'll get the job done.
Hey, when its late and you’re still working and all you wanna do is get done and go home, we’ve all done things that aren’t exactly “kosher”
Why not just use the outside in and clamp instead of whittling off the lip?
Either way the lip should be removed in order for the stainless steel clamp to sit flush to the pipe.
Use a steel band ferncoe
Why not just turn it inside out and use the flat side against the pipe?
Still have to knock that ridge off for the stainless steel sleeve to sit correctly, have to split it in order to get it around the pipe.
Then when you sell your home and the inspector tells you it's not code and you have these patches all over the place because you watched this video and ended up patching up 13 holes throughout your home, then you call me up a real master plumber and I have to charge you $11,000 to rip out all those repairs and replace all your drain lines the correct way up to code. So keep on watching these videos, this guy and other DIY are making me rich.
Super Star Troll! Welcome to the channel!
Hi Bob I been watching ur videos . I have a one family house in Brooklyn the heating system a steam boiler. Do u have a contact number I will like
For u to have a look at.
www.robertsessaplumbing.com/contact