How strong is this skinny cord?
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- čas přidán 4. 04. 2023
- PowerCord is a 5.9 mm accessory cord with a unique braided Technora core which doubles the strength of a standard 5.9 mm accessory cord. Technora is a high-strength, yet lightweight material making PowerCord a great option for anchor building and haul lines.
A Tension Backtie is used in a rescue rigging system to stabilize a monopod/bipod/tripod, backup a tree anchor, or shore up any other anchor. The number of strands between the two points determines the strength of the backtie. We tested a 2 and 3 strand.
Our blog has all the data www.hownot2.com/post/backties
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What are backties
02:30 Full strength
03:08 Figure 8
04:13 Back tie Tests
07:25 Back tie with different knots?
08:13 Back tie with 13mm rope
09:28 NEW Sterling Power Cord tested
10:12 Conclusion and Data
*You should also talk about Paracord. This will not only help the climbing community, but the whole outdoor community.* There are some good and real paracords, and tons of fakes. And also different types of paracord. A GOOD video about the subject would be really helpful and reach a vast audience. And maybe, even save lives...
Standard paracord is supposed to be rated to what, 500 lbs to 550 lbs? That right there should preclude it from being used in a climbing/life support scenarios IMHO. At the very least I wouldn’t want to encourage anyone online to use it or (incorrectly) take away that it is safe to do so.
@@brianrodman1033 You're totally irrelevant. I've never said anything about paracord for mountain climbing. That's an imagination from your mind. Worst part, for you, is that I've clearly mentioned OUTDOORS and not Climbing. And the fact remains the same, the test he's doing for climbing cords would also be good for paracord, therefore an invaluable info for anyone in the outdoors. Paracord is THE most useful cord in the outdoors and can also be used for a variety of uses in mountain climbing, not so secure a climber tho, obviously. I guess that some lives only to be keyboard warriors... just like you.
Been a rope rescue tech for 10 years. I just want to hear from people that are at a mastery level and know how to be safe. I don’t care whether that’s climbing enthusiasts, arborists, rescue techs, etc.
How did you get into the industry, is the pay decent in your area?
@@omgicantfindanamenot Im certified as a rope rescue tech, not on a full time team.
I work for a small city (population of about 60K) fire department in the KC metro. I’m on our water rescue team and cave rescue team. Pay, retirement, and benefits are good in my area - enough to support a family. I believe most rope techs work for fire departments in the US? I know we don’t have any dedicated teams in my area and I have no idea what they get paid in other parts of the country.
Can't tie a knot, tie a lot
@@omgicantfindanamenot In my area the pay is great. You pay for most of the gear and the time off you need. Yes it is volunteer. But it is a ton of fun and rewarding. You get to help people.
@@nc_mtbmedic1399 lol, I remember when an article came out in one of the magazines that suggested that exact mantra. My feeling is if you can’t tie a knot, I’m not getting on your system…hopefully you just making a funny comment!
I’m not in rescue and I definitely found this interesting
Tom is a legend! He taught my tech rescue class. He's probably taught half of the tech rescue technicians on the western half of the US. We use the Pendley guide religiously! Thanks for having him on.
Thanks four your kind words Juan, hope all is well down there is the desert southwest.
As an arborist, this served as an excellent illustration of the difference between a bollard to bollard break test, and real world application of a ropes break strength. I use a portawrap (essentially a bollard) and blocks to lower heavy wood and branches, but my climbing lines are often tied off to caribiners. All that said, if I'm putting anywhere near these numbers on my static climbing line, I'm already dead.
I've used arborist videos quite a bit to explain to blacksmiths and other traditional tradesmen how they can use rope and pulleys to move very heavy pieces. We tend to get fixated on the details of our trades, developing something of a tunnel vision that occludes anything that doesn't fit our thinking. Everyone forgets that all those neat pieces of equipment, sculpture, or gates, huge as they were, had to be moved somehow and they didn't have access to modern cranes, ratchet straps, etc. Thank you for keeping the skills alive!
@@threeriversforge1997 Those skills are very very old indeed. I think the penultimate applications were the British naval frigates of the days of sail. Every evolution required expert knowledge and miles of (by our standards) very weak lines.
Rare you hear a guy speak on CZcams and like 3 sentences in know he's a freaking expert in his field. Get him on more often!
Love the rope rescue stuff despite not working in it. I am fascinated by their complex and efficient rigging systems.
Thanks Arnold
I'm a firefighter/paramedic that is certified in most disciplines covered in the Tech Rescue field guide (just missing structural collapse) so i'm a bit biased, but please continue with this type of content! As a member of my departments Technical Rescue Operations (TROT) Team, I find your videos fascinating and educational. I am always sending your videos to other members, whether it's to younger guys to help break gear fear, or it's to "the brass" for equipment suggestions. my colleagues and I watch a ton of your videos. (whether they like it or not) Oh, and if you ever want to test rope rescue equipment/gear that has been pulled from service for various reasons let me know!
Side Note: I also have a side business doing rope access tree pruning/removal so that content is also extremely appreciated as well!
Love that you are covering not just climbing and slack with these videos.
I'm sure other professions like to see this testing first hand like this.
Remember what you learned from the dyneema triple loop testing: pre-stressing greatly increases the strength of a rope system by tightening up the splices (or knots), reducing their tendency to slip under tension. Slipping generates heat, and it's the heat that weakens the rope in the knot, not the pinching. If you re-tie and pre-stress all the knots you tested here to eliminate most of the slippage in the final break test, you will get much higher yield strengths.
This was really interesting! More content on how rescuing is done could be cool
Yes! He mentions in passing so much stuff that honestly never crossed my mind.. Like thinking it now it is very obvious: "yeah they have to be fast, they are there for an emergency, so if a faster knot is super good enough there's no reason to go with something more secure"., balancing with "The rope weights X, and to get to a person I need to move Y feet, so I can't have three anchors"
It is all really clear when you stop to think about, but honestly it never crossed my mind
Rope rescue should be part of every climbing adjacent course. so def keep em coming
If every climber knew rope rescue techniques, the sport would be so much safer. I worked at an outdoor centre where we were all taught the rescue techniques. One of our colleges was climbing in Spain and he witnessed someone take a whipper onto a ledge. Both ankles were broken, and he was stuck big time. My college was able to get up there and set up a system to get him back onto the ground before the official rescue people were on scene. Basically saved 30 minutes to an hour getting the casualty to the hospital.
Got my rope tech 10 years ago w the FD. Got really interested in rigging in 2019 and discovered this channel. I always loved the content and always tried to relate it to techniques I've learned. I realize this video is a year old, but I loved this content and would love to see more!
As a WFR, I want to give respect to Tom and all others doing their part to help. Hope these videos help keep everyone a little safer!
This is the cord I use for my Purcell Prusik as well as for anchors. This is mostly for the algorithm (like and subscribe people!), but also wanted to say that I appreciated this content!
As a SAR rescuer this is SUPER helpful. We are trained and are taught to use very high strength equipment and redundancy (1/2 in ropes, etc) and rarely introduce new technology into our systems. But we often find ourselves "compromising" when on a call because we will use what we have available. We only have what we pack in with us. Real data on real equipment with educated narration is very edifying. Thank You and keep it up this is .
Not in the rope rescue world, but as a climber and physician it is good to hear how safe things are!
I have been watching you for sometime now and love all of your videos. I am from the rescue world and use your videos from time to time to show rope rescue students.
🍻Yes, please include rescue content. I always like conversations about building it strong enough, but not overbuilding to the point of ridiculous. Of course perspective is everything.
Helpful video, thanks for all the work.
I really like these videos where we get a new insight from a different field - Always something new and different to potentially integrate...
Definitely would love to have more rescue videos
Loved it ... keep coming with the tech rescue stuff!
Great video, have Tom on more, he's a national treasure!
I hope Tom is in many more episodes to come. He is a legend
This was an exceptional episode IMO. Please make more content like this.
Self-rescue skills are super interesting and relevant to so many of the vertical world sports. Even if it's just testing of gear/systems, I really enjoyed this anyways. I think I'd enjoy how-to type stuff for self-rescue even more!
In the rope rescue world, and absolutely love this content. Please keep it up!
Love seeing these vids even though I am no longer a regular climber/instructor. Technology has changed so much over the years, and it's great to see how these materials we put our faith in perform. Keep up the good work.
Technora is less stiff than Kevlar and is less sensitive to damage. Lines designed to go around a block are often braided quite loosely so that they will flatten. This helps minimize damage due to compression. Aramid is very strong in tension but less so in compression.
Climber interested in this content. Thanks for all you do, Ryan!
I'm in rope rescue and I am very happy to see you doing this video. thanks! this is very helpful for training.
Came to this channel because of rope rescue, love to see this specific of context.
Super cool to see what loads broke this cord. Super interesting in terms of rescue and even climbing. Tom's field guide is the real deal. It's got guides for technical rescue in all kinds of terrain.
I’m a new rope rescue tec and love to see new test being done of stuff from the rescue world.
Such a good episode. Id watch Tom talk about rope all day
I am not in rescue work but found the video VERY informative. Thank you Ryan and crew.
I found the channel when I was looking for information on knots, good examples of how to tie them and the advantages of some over others in different situations, just for common use.
Your presentation, way of explaining how or why things work, and of course the fun of seeing stuff tested to failure kept me watching so I am all for you bringing in things from the worlds adjacent to your main one which I started off knowing very little about and now know a little bit more than very little.
Not in rope rescue and found this fascinating. Like to hear the professional use side of things and techniques.
This was awesome, I'm a rope rescue tech and more of this would be incredibly useful. Also, I'd love to see more of Tom, he is the man!
Many, many years ago when I was a full time firefighter and on the high angle team, we were using ⅝" double braid rope. If I recall, it had a MBS of around 15K lbs. It was very soft and pliable but heavy as hell! We were using it on the Dallas FD helo mock up skid at their drill tower and it would not feed through an "8" very well at all. When I retired, we were using the latest Kernmantle static rope. I very much like the idea of the PowerCord. So much lighter and very strong.
Never thought about rope rescue before, super interesting!
This kind of content is really interesting, please keep it up. I am in NO WAY qualified to be doing rope rescue, but seeing the gear and techniques developed for this field really is putting other things into context for me.
I'd love more videos on rescue and commercial climbing in general. I am just a regular climber, but sometimes I think about getting a different career path going hahaha.
I agree. I really enjoyed the handful of industrial rope access videos they did a while back. I never realized until those how incredibly redundant they have to be for industrial rope access, I always figured they would do things similar to climbers since everything climbers do is "Super Good Enough", but they seem to take that super good enough solution and then add another fully independent super good enough solution.
This was excellent. Please include more rope access/rope rescue. I have learned so much by taking a SPRAT course that I can apply to my recreational activities.
That is always good info. I'm not a climber but more of off-road and rescue interested. I find all of your videos very informative. Please keep them coming!
Not in rope rescue or climbing but do work aloft in the trades on occasion. Always good to know about various pieces of kit and the basics of their application. As always, thanks so much for the excellent content sirs!
I’m not in the rope rescue world, just an outdoors enthusiast, but I found this very interesting.
I’m a climber and I love to see this content I also love to see the people who save our asses being so obsessive about optimizing there systems. Keep it up 👍
im a climber but found this super interesting, the idea of building a masterpoint like that anywhere you need seems really useful to know. Great video!
I've only down some tower work and I find these videos interesting!
Definitely want to see more of this
Great vid. Would love to see more rope rescue as that is of interest to all activities and industries
a legend with another legend, WOW thank you and congratulations
Super interesting. I've seen a moderately high-angle rescue in Clear Creek, from a climber it was interesting seeing what the rescue crew was doing.
Super cord!!! Loved seeing other stuff
In our local rescue group, we use 5.5mm dyneema core accessory cord, rated 22kN end to end, and it has sewn ends to keep the core and sheath together. Would love to see some testing of that in different configurations, doubled with a flat overhand, using it as an anchor, either girth hitch or overhand masterpoint, or in a series anchor. We also use it for load transfers with a friction hitch ob the rope, munter mule at the anchor, would love to see if single strand is suffiecently strong or if doubled is necessary. Also, it would be nice to see the strength reduction some basic knots have on that cord, Figure 8, Overhand and Alpine Butterfly maybe. I believe our cord is made be Austrialpin, I think Edelrid has something similar, though that could be 6mm, not quite sure about that.
Not into rope rescue but very into ultralight camping especially backcountry backpacking. I have a ton of samson and offbrand UHMWPE cord so knots, splicing, and better terminations led me to your channel but this piques my nerdiness in such great ways.
Rescue tech - yea!!! More of please!
I use this exact cord for climbing (specifically trad 3 point) anchors, and I love it. It handles well, is light, and offers significant more versatility then my 240cm dyneema sling
Amazing to see Rescue SME with rope SME. Love the content with rope rescue world. Keep it up.
I’m hooked!!!!
As a climber I loved listening to this video. I learned something that might be useful to me one day! Thanks 🙂
I've been using powercord for a while! Kudos on testing it! Powercord is such an incredible tool!
I realy like powercord!
I come from a rope access background, but am now doing an arborist apprenticeship. I'm also a climber and sailor and with plans to get rigging certs. So I froth on all this cross pollination. Any and all info about ropes, gear and safety/risk management I find great, and you're the only source I know of where I can regularly engage and feed that desire for more knowledge. Thanks Ryan!
More like this please (rescue stuff) , great fun and informative as usual
This was really fascinating and confirmed some of my own experience. I do loads of things with ropes - tree climbing, caving, abseiling, rescue, canyoning, rock climbing and high ropes. Pretty much every one of them will see me using a clove hitch and a figure 8 somewhere in the rigging, but where and why and into what are all different so I would love to see more cross pollination. Not just anchors, but also life saving information when engaging in re-belays, rope changes, pitch change-over etc, where poor choice of device/cord/technique will get you killed just as quickly as a badly built anchor.
You've just triggered my ADHA with trying to figure out a better knot system to use then figure 8's. I'm scurrying back into my high ropes coarse construction days when we were working out breaking strains on knots and the best one to use to clip clients in using the steel eye crabs. I've always loved the industrial rope access stuff, and I wish we'd done more of the qualifications then we did. 😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Love it. I don't even climb but your videos are so interesting. Makes me wish I didn't live in a flat area.
Awesome video 👍I do some climbing and rappelling for fun.
I'm an EMT and CMC trained rope rescue technician.
Your videos are very informative!
Keep it coming! As a SAR team member in SoCal this was extremely helpful to illustrate the applications of hyperstatic line. Pretensioned back ties and focused anchors in the field usually have 2-3 legs, so I am definitely implementing this lightweight solution for problems.
would love to see more testing of skinny cords, I have a Beal back-up line that I love for these kinds of anchors
Tom was awesome let’s see more of him, and we want KIRK on next !! Keep integrating rescue in. Maybe quads with 8 or 11mm
This is really good content. I have seen this stuff used for rescue quite a bit and everyone keeps saying they don't know the knotted strength, but now we do. These types of cords are making there way into the rock climbing world more and more, and I think people have many erroneous thoughts about their strength when tied in knots.
I just got my sprat level I. I did high ropes and climbing as a kid which incubated a passion I would eventually leverage into being an entertainment rigger. I still do some recreational climbing, but mostly as a guide for my children. This channel is fantastic, and I'm so thankful the algorithm put you in my feed💚💚💚
I've been abseiling a few times and loved it, but I'm too old and broken to go jumping off things these days.
Loving the technical side of this.
The difference in knots, techniques and materials is very interesting, and the numbers don't lie.
I use 5mm maxim tech cord in a cordalette for my top rope/multipitch anchor and a Purcell Prussic used as an adjustable pas. Super lightweight and crazy strong, love that stuff
Great Test . Thank you 🙏👌
This crossed into the challenge/ropes course world. I've been hoping you'd cover technora since it's in my rescue bag at work. Hopefully I'll never need it but good to know it's as strong as they say it is.
The reverse shot on the blue rope was fun-tastic!
Purchase Sterling PowerCord our new store! hownot2.store/collections/accessory-cord/products/5-9mm-powercord
Very cool video. Not in rope rescue, but I love this stuff.
Super interesting! Love the rope rescue. You should definitely do a crash course like with canyoneering (one of my favourite series you have put out)
I'm an old boy scout who hopes to never need to tie an anchor system higher or more critical than suspending a hammock. But I still like to know enough about the overall technology that I can trust that what I tie will hold. And there's always the situation you didn't plan on getting into today that it's good to be able to adapt to.
Just a guy but I live in a house with a 12 12 pitch roof that needs work. This knowledge is getting put to use this summer. Way better than the stuff I've been using.
I have been using PowerCord for climbing anchors for a few years now. I would love to see Double Fisherman's bend in Technora tested, since I use that to make a cordelette.
How you do you anchor
Great video, would love to use this stuff for saddle hunting
Yeah I’m not in rescue and this was really Interesting to see I might buy some of this instead of regular accessory cord next time.(I do climb rocks and trees though)
I recently had a friend of a friend pass away from a large fall on the rope. You guys should do a video explaining/ testing fall factor and what would happen if someone fell the full length of a 70m rope.
Great Information!
Not in rescue, but definitely found this interesting!
Always good to cross-polinate. Technologies of one area are sometimes overlooked in others.
This is my favorite so far. Pragmatic Science!
I am not remotely close to the rope rescue world, but definitely found this interesting (well, as much as I could understand- ha ha). And I would love to see some cross-pollination!
@1:55 i have your pants. Carhartt double front duck, except my cheeks are worn to the bone. Great pant, roof work scraped them dry. Great info here
love this rope rescue content, I think that even people who are not interested on rope acces are a bit interested on rescue, it's important to know at least some things and about who rescue teams work. If you play with highs and ropes it's posible that you will find in a situation when you could need them.
Great content 🙏 thanks!!!
I've always wondered about using fishing knots ie. Trylen knot in synthetic ropes
Very interesting!
Was interesting. Mostly a climber but just starting into training for ski mountaineering...they use a bunch of 6mm for belaying couloirs which I needed some convincing was good enough.
Would love to see more rope rescue. Its applicable to all rope sports