i gotta say I'm enjoying the hell out of your videos. I just inherited an IDI and I've been going through it from bumper to bumper. Im about to do fluids on it. Only thing i missed was the coolant. Great vids man
I just had to replace the manual lift pump on my 6.9l idi. It will fire up now but surges and won't stay running unless the accelerator is pushed in a little. I purged a bunch of fuel through the schrader valve to get air out of the lines. It seemed to get better the more I purged. I noticed the line running from the filter housing to that first injector was wet and could see some bubbling. Could that be the issue? After purging it will run fine for about 5 minutes and then start surging again
WOW what a great channel. You are just what I needed. I recently bought my first diesel a 94 IDI f250 . It's great except twice when I am under heavy acceleration, out of the plue it stalls. It could be at 30-40 miles an hour. I have to start it over again, and it seems as long as I accelerate slowly and steady it's OK. Also when using the cruise...it seems to have an irritating surging of and on. The power is not steady. It vasulates. fast-slow fast slow.just slightly. The speedo at over 55 goes nuts low and high and low and high and low. Don't know if it's the gear from the cable that goes into the trans, the cable itself or the speedo itself? Seems it works just fine under 50 MPH . I know that's a lot of questions, but you seem to really have these engines down to a science. Any advice at all would be very appreciated . Thank you for sharing this great video.
I have a 1989 7.3 idi and i put clear line on from the Mechanical fuel pump to the fuel filter and i can see that over night the fuel will creep down the line up by the filter , im question is where is the air comming in to get that to happen
i have a question maybe you can help me my truck starts hard in the mornings but for the most part the rest of the day it starts fine so i put clear line on the fuel pump to the filter and some times when i come out on the moring the fuel has drained down about an inch and when i start the truck i see very miute bubbles comming randomly but the motor runs fine maybe alittle rough this drain back seems to only happen when i use the front tank though and it blows alot of like grey or whiteish grey smoke when starting in the morning the rest of the time it smokes very little i put clear lines from the fuel filter to the the ip and beyond and they stay fuel of fuel all the time its a 1989 7.3 non turbo any help would be appericated thanks james
Hi Mike,I have an 85 Ford f350 6,9 my fuel gauge is not working, so I change the side tank sending unit, that didn't fix the gauge, what do you think I should do, also when running the engine for 10 min I started seeing air bubble through a clear line going to the return
hey thanks for sharing all of your 7.3 information I was hoping you can help me iv got an international 7.3 when I bought it it overheated I put fan clutch t stat and radiator it still overheats do you think its the water pump or could its bed something im missing I really hope there is a way to test this issue thanks
Ok. Just recently overfilled my rear tank. Run rear tank only. Just recently picked up the truck. Previous owner said front tank leaked. So he never used it nor do I. I Have ran multiple tanks through the rear with no issues. 1990 f250 7.3 idk. When I got back on the road my fuel gauge did not work. Read almost empty. Did a couple mile test drive to check the carrier bearing that I had just replaced. When I got home in parked in the driveway. Came out shortly afterwards and had a steady leak what appears to be by the front tank. Any thoughts. Much appreciated.
The truck starts hard in the morning but the rest of the day starts first crank is that because of the fuel creeping down the clear line i put from the mechiaical fuel pump to the filter any help would be appericated
Glad these tips are still helping folks keep these ole cows running. Whatever happened to Justin? Just went to the R&D website and everything is out of stock. Gonna have to get my parts from some dude down in TX. You know if he's any good and who the hell is he? I'm bout to get back at it in a '92 F350 DRW with 166k on the ticker.
great thread! thanks for the tips! got 'er running now when I top the front tank off it seems to make thr rear tank leak. don't know the history of the truck very well and have not used the rear tank yet. I would like to remove the rear tank and just eliminate it... any tips on doing this ... any thing I have to cap off, or electrical issues related to the rear tank that might affect operation of front tank only?
Pleasure Cruise limo when I deleted my rear I simply clamped and ran new line to front tank and unplugged the fuel selector valve. Also made a new return line
-1992 7.3 IDI Non Turbo, will not start by cranking it over. you can roll start it and it will fire right up in just a couple of feet, run good as long as it’s left running. If you shut it off you can start it right back up right away over and over but leave it set for just a couple of minutes. And you can crank it over all u want it won’t start. Cranks fast and glow plugs work. Acts like it gets air in it super fast when turning truck off. Has Electric lift pump. If you crack open a injector while cranking it over see no signs of fuel. Ideal what it could be? Return line cause this?
I know a lot of people replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one however the 84 6.9 I bought a couple years ago actually has an electric pump in series with the mechanical one and has a switch for it in the cab. The return lines were a mess so I think this was the POs way of compensating for the leaks when the truck sits for an extended period.
I’m having starting my 1990 f350 nonturbo diesel. I replaced my glow plug relay and controller due to the relay no clicking like it should. After replacing it, it made the normal clicking . Prior to the glowplug relay I replaced all 8 glow plugs. I watched one of your other videos about the fuel shut off and it’s working like how you explained it. With a little help of starting fluid it will run forever. Any thoughts or recommendations?
Replacing the fuel return lines does wonders. Also I used auto lite glowplugs just trying them out and it was a horrible experience. Use motorcraft and the return line. U should be good. Also plug wires check for corrosion
Hi Mike, I’ve got a 1989 7.3 IDI and it runs and drives great, but stalls when stopping (it’s a manual trans) and after being revved up. I was thinking it might that injection pump metering valve sticking? Or it’s sucking air only on decel? Any thoughts? Love your videos, thank you!!
Could.be either but metering valve most common time for a heavy does of fuel cleaner I went a couple weeks adding diesel kleen in heavy doses when mine acted up
Thank you for your help! I have 91 7.3 idi I have at times a hard time to start the truck. After I start the truck it turns on with out a problem. However now I’m having trouble with truck shutting off while driving it . And having a hard time starting it. Any suggestions where to start? I noticed it on tank #1 it would do it but now it’s both tanks and usually it’s when it’s a 1/4 tank of fuel
To me that sounds like broken showerheads in the tank. Especially if it's at 1/4 tank only doing it. Need to either swap it or put in a piece of submersible hose with a v slit on the bottom
I have an 89 e350 7.3 and I believe im experiencing fuel drain back into the tank after letting it sit for hours after running. takes a few seconds cranks and then dies. then after about 15 seconds of cranking will start and run with no issues. I am not experiencing any problems otherwise as it runs like a top when goin down the road. I was told by local diesel mechanics to install a check valve on the fuel supply side and that should solve it. All of my lines to fuel filter housing seem to be original as they are hard lines and my return line with the check valve is still attatched. Should i go ahead and do the supply side check valve install? Also would the return line check valve delete be recommended if the first option doesn't work? Thanks
check valve install on supply helps but is a bandaid I know from experience. Delete the filter housing return line to injector caps its not needed and will eliminate air or drainback in your entire return side from getting into the feed
I have a 1996 7.3 International 7400. At first I had to jump it to start it (after I had no access to a heater plug in) . But it started every morning and ran and started fine all day tho I did notice this very very slight weird surge once in awhile while driving.. light and tight together. Now after letting sit 2 days in freezing weather, she cranks hard, both batteries are great and I cleaned the terminals. Regardless she will not start in the cold now at all. The Tach and Speedo do their little dance. Then the Tach does one more and the WAIT light goes out.. I crank and no start. Once in awhile it seems like it starting to fire off but stops and just big cloud of whitish smoke. Any help would be appreciated
mike i have a 85 international 1654 with the 6.9 idi. if i let it sit over night it will crank and crank until is give it a shot of either witch i hate to use i have put all new glow plugs in and put it on a push button switch. new filters and changed out the return caps on the injectors it has a fuel primer that leaks when i go to use it but i will be deleting that next. i just hope its not the injection pump? i have checked the filter housing and nothing is leaking on it am i missing anything based on the info i have provided. thanks for any info. good vids
Thank you for the videos.. I obtained a service manual for my truck but it isnt nearly as insightful.. I have absolutely no fuel spraying from the Schrader valve when I engaged it. Where can I obtain the jse to push links and what size I want to essentially bullet proof the fuel delivery
I have a question. I have a 1991 F-350 Super Duty 7.3 that when idling, rocks hard left and right vibrating the entire engine as soon as you put the pedal down and rev the engine it smoothes out. Also when you put the truck in reverse it seems to rock even harder from left and right. Any idea what may cause that? I thought about perhaps motor mounts but I don't think that that's what it is.
if you have a missing cylinder it can cause similar symptoms check your injector lines for breaks also could be ip related would have to see it running
Mine's doing the same exact thing. Been struggling with this for several months now. Cleared some of it up by replacing return lines and tees, but not all of it; so it definitely seems like it's air-related.. Please help!
Another question if you don't mind. if the injector pump "pops" the injector and sprays fuel into the cylinder and the residual is returned to the fuel tank via the return lines, why does air in the return lines cause a problem?
for some reason your first comment is in my notifications but I can't see it on this video. as for the return line question it's because the air from the return lines goes to the highest point which consequently is the fuel filter housing and it gets into the feed for the injection pump. one of the reasons I block off my return line from my filter housing on all my trucks
Thanks for the reply, I'll switch mine over to the return off of the injector pump like yours, I also found two more cups leaking today, O rings are only a year old. I'm replacing with new Ford O rings tomorrow .
find a local hydraulic shop if you can and take an o ring with you for size match up. ask for viton o rings they are the better and more heat resistant. The dealership just has overpriced nitrile ones. As for the caps already leaking there's a few factors there. could've been cut on initial installation normally from lack of lube installing, cap not seated , could be a poor quality cap with excessive flash, or could even be a return line putting awkward tension on a cap if it was cut a fuzz too long.
Hard starting "cranking for 15 seconds before firing with throttle all the way down, no power from 4th gear and 5th gear i hit the hill at 60 mph and get to the top at 45 mph , no smoke whats my issue, i replaced lift pump and water separater filter,
Have ya checked your regular fuel filter? It definitely sounds like a restriction one time I developed a blockage that would only clog the line under a load running but idling nothing. We dropped the tank, cleaned the sender and replaced all my feed lines. I would doubt its a delivery issue with the new lift pump. No other surges or anything thou right like its getting air in right?
Great videos you have on here. Bought my IDI not too long ago and it seems there is air getting into the fuel system. Main question is, what material of clear hosing you're using? Is that a temporary installation or only temporary?
it's high pressure line hose its chemical resistant but not fuel rated I think I got it from Menards it originally was temporary but has been holding up fairly well for about 8 months
Thanks! I'd just be worried about the reactions going on in the inside of the hosing. I'd hate to have it gum up my injectors or something. I'll give this a try and run them for awhile to see if any leaks pop up after replacing the lines. Salty roads in Michigan have a lot of the hardlines deteriorating.
yeah I haven't noticed any deterioration in my fuel return lines from the stuff .....Now for my feed line I deleted all that metal line rusty junk and I ran all solid high pressure 3/8 injection hose because it has a plastic like inner liner and it's pretty stiff it's expensive thou like 5 bucks a foot depending on where you go
hey man I have an 89 f350 with 7.3 non turbo. I'm having issues starting the truck when the engines cold. But if I plug the truck up it starts every time. This sound like anything you heard of before ?
Do you sell anything for the fuel heater plug fix and how much does it effect cold starts in below freezing temps without it? Thanks for all the great info here by the way!
@@groundtogreen1140 Great. Also thinking about doing the return delete on Number 1 and the filter. I have a air leak problem. long crank, intermittent miss. Installed a electric supply pump and helped greatly. also bypassed the coolant temp sensor for the solenoid in the injection pump, increased performance but not correct yet. Not the fuel cutoff solenoid but the other one. what did you use to block Number one injector return?
Can i upgrade to a 200Amp alternator versus the stock 130? i’m pretty sure i found one which mounts the exact same and even the connectors look the same.
Hello, I'm wondering IF ANYBODY can tell me What size the Rubber Return Line is that is going off of the Engine and down to the Tank's? I'm guessing 1/4", 5/16", 3/8"???? I have to go and get a truck and the line is bad right off the Engine and down to the line going back to the tank(s). PLEASE HELP THIS OL' MAN ON THIS. THANKS in advance.
I need your help badly. I have an old 6.9 non turbo. Recently changed the hoses , O rings , and the plastic things that slip over the O rings. She has become weak as water at times but not all times. One night this week it was super hard to crank and once it was running I drove to parts store for a new fuel filter. When I took the old one loose fuel sprayed from pressure out as I unscrewed it. I filled the new filter with transmission fluid , then it cranked easily and ran strong . The next day it started getting weak again but would run strong for a little while then bog down again. When it's running weak it sounds like the exhaust is stopped up , but I can't see it being stopped up then unstop back n forth. Also I took the air filter off to make sure it could get all the air it could possibly get.
still sounds like air to me. first thing I reccomend like the video is to plumb clear line in into the fuel system. you Don't need much but that'll help you track down the point of entry
Mike Grn Thanks for the reply. I had planned on putting on the clear line this morning , but my mother had surgery and had me all over town for her today. I keep that clear line for all kinds of projects anyway. One thing I did do today was stop and got a can of spray carburetor cleaner. The filter was changed one day this week so I simply took it back off , dumped the diesel and filled with the carburetor cleaner and added a little transmission fluid to top it off . Then cranked it while it was still hot from the hard drive home. I let it run until the smoke turned white and I could smell the carb cleaner burning good , and shut it off until after 9pm. When cranked then I drove it easy until the temp was at 170°F and put it on the interstate and held it down up to about 80mph and would slow down then run wide open to 80mph. Being it's a 4:11 and C6 transmission Running wide open to 80 mph is raping it. When driving back home on the two lane it seemed a lot stronger than it has been. But being ran hard may have purged air out as well. Unless the cleaner eats up the return system I'm sure the cleaning helped but I'm gonna still put the clear lines on so I can for sure pinpoint any trouble. Thanks for the reply.
I hope your mother has a speedy recovery.... yea that could definitely do both clean it and purge out old air. the only downside is if you do still have a spot where it's getting in the issue will come back. If you want email me anytime at meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
Hi Mike, love the videos by the way, well anyways i have a 1991 FSuper duty diesel dually 7.3 idi, i finally replaced the starter and today when i was cranking it over the water in fuel light came on that is just below the wait to start light, so i quit cranking it and now i am wondering what to do next ? should i drop the tank im only running on the front tank. and if i drop the tank to clean it out then should i hook a pump to the line to suck out any fuel that has water in it or blow the line out from the front ? i am so stuck can you help me ? Thanks either way i just wanted to ask , i'm just learning about this truck . Have a nice day ! Mark
The oem studd has a water fuel separator Id first try draining that to see just how watery the diesel is. If it dont look too bad id run it with a diesel fuel additive I forgot the name of which one draws out moisture
@@groundtogreen1140 Thanks Mike, i saw one guy said 91% isopropol alcohol you can get from walgreens or the dollar store so im gonna try that. Doesn't my fuel filter have a knob on the bottom to release water ? i will check and see but thanks for helping me : ).
I have a 94 f250 idi which is giving me issues with the rear fuel tank when I switch to it the truck starts to stumble as if there was no fuel (even with full tank) the front tank works fine until it reaches 1/4 , can you give me some insights on where to start troubleshooting, thanks in advance
you mean that spin on deal on the filter itself? id just delete it and get a one piece fuel filter. the factory style has been known to leak or sieze up
potentially a fuel delivery issue check your inlet pressure should be at least 3-5 psi running and check the shrader valve to verify air isn't a variable as well. Smoke on first start up is normal but it should clear up after idling
I have what i believe is a 6.9 in a 1985 International S1600 medium duty dump truck it has developed a problem that has been stumping me, it will start right up but shuts off as quick as it starts. It will rev up if you hold the throttle while starting but still shuts off just as quick. Do you have any suggestions? It is non turbo mechanical fuel pump and mechanical injection.
Wade Toney any other info. Does it hot or cold, have ya tested fuel pressure at the filter housing (4-6 is ideal but can run even on 3), can ya get it to idle at all
If you are getting fuel as Mike suggested back probe the wire on the run side of your switch, after cranking when you let off and it snaps back see if you lose power, 70s and 80s ford switches was notorious for that gas or diesel, it very well could be the switch
what year is the IDI ?Mine is a 1994 pre powerstroke IDI, is it the same stock set up because it looks a little different than mine in the filter head housing dept.
I have a bog at 3/4 to full throttle most of the time sometimes it’s will run fine but you’ll floor it and it will down shift then bog egts are climbing but if you lift off the Pedal to about half throttle it’ll rev back un bog and haul ass back a full throttle what would cause that
hmm maybe a fuel restriction somewhere or potentially a sticking metering valve. Imo I would try a heavy dose of fuel cleaner and if problem persists I'd start trouble shooting and inspecting from there.
I hope you see this comment but I just recently acquired a 7.3 idi runs great but when ever I start the truck it blows white smoke from the exhaust but once it runs for a few minutes it stops. Wonder if you had any Idea why it would do that. Or is it normal.
could be timing, or ip related most likely. Some smoke on startup is normal. If you can acquire a timing meter it doesn't hurt to check it. Idis will also run advanced for s little bit on first startup as well until it kicks the solenoid off on the ip
Just a heads up, had an issue on my 6.9idi the IP has a valve inside that can start to stick and have an issue returning to normal after a rev or on a shift which can kill the motor. I replaced the IP and it went away.
My 86 idi just died at a stop light when she started idling rough like it’s trying to be cammed out Chevy. She cranked over for like 5 seconds fired up and I got out of traffics way but she started surging while accelerating or just cruising. Like one second she’s got full power the next she’s bogging out. Not much smoke comes from her at all accept when she’s started on cold mornings
Hey Mike, I have 6,9 I change my sending unit, and notice that the stainer was not on the old sending unit, so I put the new sending unit in without the strainer. Now not starting, Will the engine suck in air,
It will suck in air if tank is below 1/4 without that strainer. A more permanent fix is taking submersible rated fuel line , v notching the end and installing that on the new sender
Great videos, I've been learning a lot about these engines and they have been very helpful with my first IDI.. here recently I get a hard start in the morning..cranks 10-15 seconds and then fires up. Rest of the day it fires up on the first hit. I have good power up to about 60 mph (E4OD trans). Anything above that I will drop back to 45-55mph even on a gradual hill. And if I don't drop speed you can feel a very small, slight surge at steady throttle on a slight grade or under easy load. If you get on the throttle hard it eases up or will downshift and be fine. Does this sound like air intrusion to you? I appreciate your time.
@@groundtogreen1140 Thank you for your reply. I found the rubber line from the fuel supply to the lift pump had a kink in it.. I put a longer piece of line there to where it has a straight shot to the pump. I checked fuel pressure and I have 4-4.5 psi at idle. While slowly revving engine I can watch fuel pressure drop to 2-2.5 and then struggles to come back up going back to idle. Then sometimes I'll lose pressure altogether and it has so much air, I have to manually crank it to bleed it before it will fire back up. Now..two things, it has a new lift pump on it (previous owner installed). Second, while checking the fuel pressure I saw one of the hard injector lines spraying a very very small mist of fuel from around the vibration clamp area. I'm going to replace the line that's sprung a leak, and I understand that air is being pulled in from there and getting to the injector, but would that also explain my fuel filter light and the air that is getting back to the fuel filter head or do you think I should still do more investigating from my fuel supply? I know it's hard to do this over a computer lol but I really appreciate it.
@@WorldsMotorsports iirc the filter light is vacuum related Idk if it clicks on with air in the system mine never did but it should come on if there is a restriction. Clear line from lift pump could eliminate any question of air from your supply
it's just a square cut o ring I had to get em at the international dealership...... I hate the way those sealed up so that's why I ran push lock fittings
Mikegreen that’s what I’m gonna do first sir I gotta fix my fuel leak it’s the main line coming from the tanks it’s about under the drivers door so I believe that’s most of my problem from just watching the video and I’m gonna check my glow plugs while I’m at it
It was called 1/4" chemical line and I bought it from menards. The diesel eventually deteriorates it but takes awhile. They never leaked just got a little more brittle I think after 2 years or something
Hi, I'm hoping You could help me. I have an 84 f250 6.9 idi with an ats turbo on it and 100,000 og miles. It started up right away every time until the ip went bad. So I figured when I replaced the ip id replace the injectors too, along with all the o rings and caps... Anyways, the truck has trouble starting no matter what the temp is outside. It takes a good 6 seconds or more for it to fire, then when its running there's a haze of white smoke. I already bought another return line kit and installed it, but the problem still persists. If I shut it off and restart it within a minute it will start right up. What should I do?
@@groundtogreen1140 I bought the ip from penascola diesel. I'm not sure about the lift pump pressure, quite a bit of fuel comes out though, id say a 1\2 pint in 8 seconds of cranking. If I let it sit a while no fuel will spray out of the little valve unless I crank it, is that normal for a mechanical pump? Also, this morning I installed a manual glowplug relay kit and new battery terminals, it will start right up after holding the momentary switch for about 6 seconds before cranking but still has the white smoke issue and runs rough for about 5 seconds then it runs great, but with faint white smoke. I'm thinking it still has an air leak somewhere.
@@chapekfabrication2975 Pensacola Diesel doesn't have a very good reputation I've had a couple people I know get bad pumps straight out the box from them
@@groundtogreen1140 Also I just watched your return line video, I noticed when I popped an injector cap off the o rings were sliced. I think the cap cuts them when popping them on?
My 7.3 only has hard starts after sitting over night or longer. I have replaced all the return line outings already. I am suspecting the air leak somewhere around the filter housing... Any suggestions?
Yea plug the line from filter housing to caps and see if anything changes sounds like a leakdown to me. Also possible one of the fittings in housing itself is letting air in) schrader valve if bad
Ok so I do believe I'm having this problem on my 1991 7.3l idi. Started doing it in January of this year after I changed the fuel water separator. I've changed the return lines and injector cap o-rings to try and fix it but it only helped a little. It stopped doing it once it got warm out again so all summer I had believed it was fixed but now that it's getting cold again (low 30's) it has to crank longer than normal in order to start. It's seems to have to build up fuel pressure before it starts. And since it only does it when it's cold out is strange. Do you know anything else I could try in order to fix this. Soon it'll be even colder and it doesn't like to start at all then even when plugged in.
the temperature thing is normally s glow plug associated. I'd feel your block heater cord and verify it gets warm and don't start it with it plugged in apparently some guys have said it can short it out. Did you use mototcraft glow plugs zd9s? If you haven't already done so I'd consider an electric fuel pump conversion occasionally a bad lift pump can cause those symptoms. it's not horribly uncommon for it to start a little harder because oil is more viscous in winter. if all that checks out I'd definitely do a compression test. my truck always started when cold but earlier this year mine got harder to start because my injection punp was slowly going out.
if it's air related it'll definitely bog down or immediately cut off after started when cold. and of course you'll have air coming out the filter housing
I sell kits for the factory fuel pump to the filter head and another from filter head to the injection pump. As for the o rings on top of the injectors any parts store can hook ya up with a fuel return line kit for those or if ordered separate I think the listed size was a 111 last time I ordered em
My pickup smokes white when it’s cold, it sputters and blows white when I first drive it after I start it. It also starts hard when the engine isn’t warmed up, and when it finally fired it sounds rattle and runs like garbage. Does this sound like air intrusion?
my money is on the pickup rube inside of the tank if it continues to do it but could just have gotten air in the system from that and it can be a mother to get it out make sure tank isnfull and keep popping the filter bleeder valve too
Hey, got a 89 7.3 idi. Had slight miss at idle and when cruising above 2000 rpm it stumbles like its starving for fuel. New injectors, lift pump, fuel filter, return lines, glowplugs and relay. Starts hard cold, or hot. Starts better when it's not at full operating temp. 120k on the dial. Suspecting injection pump, but I wanna be sure before I drop that kinda cash
2 month late reply but you may want to be sure ther is no restrictions before the pump first such as clogged pickup in the tank, bad lift pump, in tank or on engine, clogging debris in line somewhere between tank and injection pump, i have seen many people drop alot of money on everything from Injection pump to replacement engine and the underlying problem being in the tank
Wolfman Rebel Ok, pulling a trailer it runs fine cuz I'm into the throttle more. Still misses a bit at idle but i did a 500 mile round trip run pulled a parts truck out to a buddies and not a single stutter under throttle. Wonder if its not warn parts in the pump and once you get past that point if it don't smooth out.
@@christophertheisen6536 it is very possible, honestly those things haven't been made for so many years of I planned to keep it I would start saving for new pump(s) , lines, injectors and depending on blowby a full rebuild, they are your most economical choice to rebuild compared to others and once it's done you are good for a long long time
Justin Muldovan sounds like air is leaking in from the return side. Done any diagnostic investigating yet from above video? More than likely return lines/o rings
Mike Grn I have only looked at the lines. Haven't had time to really look into it. I have new injectors and return lines to put on it when I have time.
@@groundtogreen1140 awesome I think I’ll have to do the same. I accidentally ran engine out of fuel completely after installing new fsv wrong and it’s been impossible to start ever since
@@groundtogreen1140 ok great. Follow up question haha. With your electric pump, when the engine is on, do you get fuel out of your Schroeder valve? Mine doesn’t. I capped the return line port on the filter housing. I have the pump hooked up to the gpc like yours but did you do a relay setup and maybe I’m just not getting enough power? Sorry many questions
I still have the fuel heater, I just sealed where it leaks with the element still intact with some tank sealant. This was the source of my agony with fuel intrusion
I’m actually having a problem with my 6.9 IDI And I use a 7.3 fuel filter I’m actually getting air intrusion leaking fuel from The bottom of the metal bowl on the filter
Did you run JIC fitting at the IP? Believe those are 1/2-20 NPT at the pump. I just ordered the following at NAPA was looking for a 90 degree fitting. www.napaonline.com/en/p/GATG375080605
Awesome video, still relevant today.
i gotta say I'm enjoying the hell out of your videos. I just inherited an IDI and I've been going through it from bumper to bumper. Im about to do fluids on it. Only thing i missed was the coolant. Great vids man
Thanks a bunch for all these videos man, just picked up a ‘94
a '94 will be a powerstroke...
@@asecuredefense3909 uh, no mine’s an idi with factory turbo. 1994 was a model change year. Powerstroke came later in the year.
I just had to replace the manual lift pump on my 6.9l idi. It will fire up now but surges and won't stay running unless the accelerator is pushed in a little. I purged a bunch of fuel through the schrader valve to get air out of the lines. It seemed to get better the more I purged. I noticed the line running from the filter housing to that first injector was wet and could see some bubbling. Could that be the issue? After purging it will run fine for about 5 minutes and then start surging again
awesome video, thanks for posting 🍻👍
WOW what a great channel. You are just what I needed. I recently bought my first diesel a 94 IDI f250 . It's great except twice when I am under heavy acceleration, out of the plue it stalls. It could be at 30-40 miles an hour. I have to start it over again, and it seems as long as I accelerate slowly and steady it's OK. Also when using the cruise...it seems to have an irritating surging of and on. The power is not steady. It vasulates. fast-slow fast slow.just slightly. The speedo at over 55 goes nuts low and high and low and high and low. Don't know if it's the gear from the cable that goes into the trans, the cable itself or the speedo itself? Seems it works just fine under 50 MPH . I know that's a lot of questions, but you seem to really have these engines down to a science. Any advice at all would be very appreciated . Thank you for sharing this great video.
I have a 1989 7.3 idi and i put clear line on from the Mechanical fuel pump to the fuel filter and i can see that over night the fuel will creep down the line up by the filter , im question is where is the air comming in to get that to happen
Starting from 1:43 in your video are the symptoms I’m having with my 90 f350 7.3 idi diesel? Any help
i have a question maybe you can help me my truck starts hard in the mornings but for the most part the rest of the day it starts fine so i put clear line on the fuel pump to the filter and some times when i come out on the moring the fuel has drained down about an inch and when i start the truck i see very miute bubbles comming randomly but the motor runs fine maybe alittle rough this drain back seems to only happen when i use the front tank though and it blows alot of like grey or whiteish grey smoke when starting in the morning the rest of the time it smokes very little i put clear lines from the fuel filter to the the ip and beyond and they stay fuel of fuel all the time its a 1989 7.3 non turbo any help would be appericated thanks james
Hi Mike,I have an 85 Ford f350 6,9 my fuel gauge is not working, so I change the side tank sending unit, that didn't fix the gauge, what do you think I should do, also when running the engine for 10 min I started seeing air bubble through a clear line going to the return
hey thanks for sharing all of your 7.3 information I was hoping you can help me iv got an international 7.3 when I bought it it overheated I put fan clutch t stat and radiator it still overheats do you think its the water pump or could its bed something im missing I really hope there is a way to test this issue
thanks
Ok. Just recently overfilled my rear tank. Run rear tank only. Just recently picked up the truck. Previous owner said front tank leaked. So he never used it nor do I. I Have ran multiple tanks through the rear with no issues. 1990 f250 7.3 idk. When I got back on the road my fuel gauge did not work. Read almost empty. Did a couple mile test drive to check the carrier bearing that I had just replaced. When I got home in parked in the driveway. Came out shortly afterwards and had a steady leak what appears to be by the front tank. Any thoughts. Much appreciated.
The truck starts hard in the morning but the rest of the day starts first crank is that because of the fuel creeping down the clear line i put from the mechiaical fuel pump to the filter any help would be appericated
Glad these tips are still helping folks keep these ole cows running. Whatever happened to Justin? Just went to the R&D website and everything is out of stock. Gonna have to get my parts from some dude down in TX. You know if he's any good and who the hell is he? I'm bout to get back at it in a '92 F350 DRW with 166k on the ticker.
Try calling the shop justin is still in business I know he's been cranking out orders like crazy
great thread! thanks for the tips! got 'er running now when I top the front tank off it seems to make thr rear tank leak. don't know the history of the truck very well and have not used the rear tank yet. I would like to remove the rear tank and just eliminate it... any tips on doing this ... any thing I have to cap off, or electrical issues related to the rear tank that might affect operation of front tank only?
Pleasure Cruise limo when I deleted my rear I simply clamped and ran new line to front tank and unplugged the fuel selector valve. Also made a new return line
-1992 7.3 IDI Non Turbo, will not start by cranking it over. you can roll start it and it will fire right up in just a couple of feet, run good as long as it’s left running. If you shut it off you can start it right back up right away over and over but leave it set for just a couple of minutes. And you can crank it over all u want it won’t start. Cranks fast and glow plugs work. Acts like it gets air in it super fast when turning truck off. Has Electric lift pump. If you crack open a injector while cranking it over see no signs of fuel. Ideal what it could be? Return line cause this?
I know a lot of people replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one however the 84 6.9 I bought a couple years ago actually has an electric pump in series with the mechanical one and has a switch for it in the cab. The return lines were a mess so I think this was the POs way of compensating for the leaks when the truck sits for an extended period.
sonictech1000 actually pretty common people dont wanna fix the actual problems
I’m having starting my 1990 f350 nonturbo diesel. I replaced my glow plug relay and controller due to the relay no clicking like it should. After replacing it, it made the normal clicking . Prior to the glowplug relay I replaced all 8 glow plugs. I watched one of your other videos about the fuel shut off and it’s working like how you explained it. With a little help of starting fluid it will run forever. Any thoughts or recommendations?
Replacing the fuel return lines does wonders. Also I used auto lite glowplugs just trying them out and it was a horrible experience. Use motorcraft and the return line. U should be good. Also plug wires check for corrosion
Hi Mike, I’ve got a 1989 7.3 IDI and it runs and drives great, but stalls when stopping (it’s a manual trans) and after being revved up. I was thinking it might that injection pump metering valve sticking? Or it’s sucking air only on decel? Any thoughts? Love your videos, thank you!!
Could.be either but metering valve most common time for a heavy does of fuel cleaner I went a couple weeks adding diesel kleen in heavy doses when mine acted up
Mike Green thank you!!
Yes yesss. Plz do more videos
Can you provide a link and or part number for the type of clear hose you used? I found the clamps (HPS Stainless Steel Fuel Injection Hose Clamps)
Kevin Boyles it's whatever menards sells 5/16 chemical.line
Thank you for your help! I have 91 7.3 idi I have at times a hard time to start the truck. After I start the truck it turns on with out a problem. However now I’m having trouble with truck shutting off while driving it . And having a hard time starting it. Any suggestions where to start? I noticed it on tank #1 it would do it but now it’s both tanks and usually it’s when it’s a 1/4 tank of fuel
To me that sounds like broken showerheads in the tank. Especially if it's at 1/4 tank only doing it. Need to either swap it or put in a piece of submersible hose with a v slit on the bottom
I have an 89 e350 7.3 and I believe im experiencing fuel drain back into the tank after letting it sit for hours after running. takes a few seconds cranks and then dies. then after about 15 seconds of cranking will start and run with no issues. I am not experiencing any problems otherwise as it runs like a top when goin down the road. I was told by local diesel mechanics to install a check valve on the fuel supply side and that should solve it. All of my lines to fuel filter housing seem to be original as they are hard lines and my return line with the check valve is still attatched. Should i go ahead and do the supply side check valve install? Also would the return line check valve delete be recommended if the first option doesn't work? Thanks
check valve install on supply helps but is a bandaid I know from experience. Delete the filter housing return line to injector caps its not needed and will eliminate air or drainback in your entire return side from getting into the feed
I have a 1996 7.3 International 7400. At first I had to jump it to start it (after I had no access to a heater plug in) . But it started every morning and ran and started fine all day tho I did notice this very very slight weird surge once in awhile while driving.. light and tight together. Now after letting sit 2 days in freezing weather, she cranks hard, both batteries are great and I cleaned the terminals.
Regardless she will not start in the cold now at all. The Tach and Speedo do their little dance. Then the Tach does one more and the WAIT light goes out.. I crank and no start. Once in awhile it seems like it starting to fire off but stops and just big cloud of whitish smoke.
Any help would be appreciated
I dont think that has the idi engine 96 would be the powerstroke. Not as familiar on those but sounds like possibly the glow plugs
mike i have a 85 international 1654 with the 6.9 idi. if i let it sit over night it will crank and crank until is give it a shot of either witch i hate to use i have put all new glow plugs in and put it on a push button switch. new filters and changed out the return caps on the injectors it has a fuel primer that leaks when i go to use it but i will be deleting that next. i just hope its not the injection pump? i have checked the filter housing and nothing is leaking on it am i missing anything based on the info i have provided. thanks for any info. good vids
joshua farris alot of people have said the water separator can give ya problems as well
Thank you for the videos.. I obtained a service manual for my truck but it isnt nearly as insightful..
I have absolutely no fuel spraying from the Schrader valve when I engaged it.
Where can I obtain the jse to push links and what size
I want to essentially bullet proof the fuel delivery
I sell em or can direct you where to get them email me at meanmikegreen@yahoo.com please
@@groundtogreen1140 that sounds great I emailed you
I have a question. I have a 1991 F-350 Super Duty 7.3 that when idling, rocks hard left and right vibrating the entire engine as soon as you put the pedal down and rev the engine it smoothes out. Also when you put the truck in reverse it seems to rock even harder from left and right. Any idea what may cause that? I thought about perhaps motor mounts but I don't think that that's what it is.
if you have a missing cylinder it can cause similar symptoms check your injector lines for breaks also could be ip related would have to see it running
Litterly been battling this same problem this last week, had my truck for about 10 years and not had a single problem then this showed up last week
Mine's doing the same exact thing. Been struggling with this for several months now. Cleared some of it up by replacing return lines and tees, but not all of it; so it definitely seems like it's air-related..
Please help!
Another question if you don't mind.
if the injector pump "pops" the injector and sprays fuel into
the cylinder and the residual is returned to the fuel tank via the
return lines, why does air in the return lines cause a problem?
for some reason your first comment is in my notifications but I can't see it on this video. as for the return line question it's because the air from the return lines goes to the highest point which consequently is the fuel filter housing and it gets into the feed for the injection pump. one of the reasons I block off my return line from my filter housing on all my trucks
Thanks for the reply, I'll switch mine over to the return off of the injector pump like yours, I also found two more cups leaking today, O rings are only a year old. I'm replacing with new Ford O rings tomorrow .
find a local hydraulic shop if you can and take an o ring with you for size match up. ask for viton o rings they are the better and more heat resistant. The dealership just has overpriced nitrile ones. As for the caps already leaking there's a few factors there. could've been cut on initial installation normally from lack of lube installing, cap not seated , could be a poor quality cap with excessive flash, or could even be a return line putting awkward tension on a cap if it was cut a fuzz too long.
Thanks, I'll look into it
Hard starting "cranking for 15 seconds before firing with throttle all the way down, no power from 4th gear and 5th gear i hit the hill at 60 mph and get to the top at 45 mph , no smoke whats my issue, i replaced lift pump and water separater filter,
Have ya checked your regular fuel filter? It definitely sounds like a restriction one time I developed a blockage that would only clog the line under a load running but idling nothing. We dropped the tank, cleaned the sender and replaced all my feed lines. I would doubt its a delivery issue with the new lift pump. No other surges or anything thou right like its getting air in right?
Great videos you have on here. Bought my IDI not too long ago and it seems there is air getting into the fuel system. Main question is, what material of clear hosing you're using? Is that a temporary installation or only temporary?
it's high pressure line hose its chemical resistant but not fuel rated I think I got it from Menards it originally was temporary but has been holding up fairly well for about 8 months
Thanks! I'd just be worried about the reactions going on in the inside of the hosing. I'd hate to have it gum up my injectors or something. I'll give this a try and run them for awhile to see if any leaks pop up after replacing the lines. Salty roads in Michigan have a lot of the hardlines deteriorating.
yeah I haven't noticed any deterioration in my fuel return lines from the stuff .....Now for my feed line I deleted all that metal line rusty junk and I ran all solid high pressure 3/8 injection hose because it has a plastic like inner liner and it's pretty stiff it's expensive thou like 5 bucks a foot depending on where you go
hey man I have an 89 f350 with 7.3 non turbo. I'm having issues starting the truck when the engines cold. But if I plug the truck up it starts every time. This sound like anything you heard of before ?
yea sounds like a glow plug issue. if its only a problem when cold
Ok thx alot man !
Do you sell anything for the fuel heater plug fix and how much does it effect cold starts in below freezing temps without it? Thanks for all the great info here by the way!
I'm working on selling TIG welded fuel filter housings but no it does not affect cold starts very much at all
I removed the heating parts ( after replacing the housing 3 times with used housings ) and tapped the hole then put a plug in it .
Watched your video, where did you get the fittings to replace the steel line from the filter housing to the injector pump? my line leaks.
I actually sell the kits for em now primarily via fb but you can email me as well. even have a steel braided option now. meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
@@groundtogreen1140 Great. Also thinking about doing the return delete on Number 1 and the filter. I have a air leak problem. long crank, intermittent miss. Installed a electric supply pump and helped greatly. also bypassed the coolant temp sensor for the solenoid in the injection pump, increased performance but not correct yet. Not the fuel cutoff solenoid but the other one. what did you use to block Number one injector return?
Just sent you an email
@@mikemtech1 I bought a brass tee and looped it into itself
Can i upgrade to a 200Amp alternator versus the stock 130? i’m pretty sure i found one which mounts the exact same and even the connectors look the same.
I'm not sure on that I don't wanna give you incorrect info.
I keep coming back to this video , I have so many questions. 😂 I want to put a turbo on my 89 7.3. Do you need to rebuild the motor to put a turbo on?
No you do not just don't go crazy hot rodding it 😜
Hello, I'm wondering IF ANYBODY can tell me What size the Rubber Return Line is that is going off of the Engine and down to the Tank's? I'm guessing 1/4", 5/16", 3/8"???? I have to go and get a truck and the line is bad right off the Engine and down to the line going back to the tank(s). PLEASE HELP THIS OL' MAN ON THIS. THANKS in advance.
I need your help badly. I have an old 6.9 non turbo. Recently changed the hoses , O rings , and the plastic things that slip over the O rings. She has become weak as water at times but not all times. One night this week it was super hard to crank and once it was running I drove to parts store for a new fuel filter. When I took the old one loose fuel sprayed from pressure out as I unscrewed it. I filled the new filter with transmission fluid , then it cranked easily and ran strong . The next day it started getting weak again but would run strong for a little while then bog down again. When it's running weak it sounds like the exhaust is stopped up , but I can't see it being stopped up then unstop back n forth. Also I took the air filter off to make sure it could get all the air it could possibly get.
still sounds like air to me. first thing I reccomend like the video is to plumb clear line in into the fuel system. you Don't need much but that'll help you track down the point of entry
Mike Grn
Thanks for the reply. I had planned on putting on the clear line this morning , but my mother had surgery and had me all over town for her today. I keep that clear line for all kinds of projects anyway. One thing I did do today was stop and got a can of spray carburetor cleaner. The filter was changed one day this week so I simply took it back off , dumped the diesel and filled with the carburetor cleaner and added a little transmission fluid to top it off . Then cranked it while it was still hot from the hard drive home. I let it run until the smoke turned white and I could smell the carb cleaner burning good , and shut it off until after 9pm. When cranked then I drove it easy until the temp was at 170°F and put it on the interstate and held it down up to about 80mph and would slow down then run wide open to 80mph. Being it's a 4:11 and C6 transmission Running wide open to 80 mph is raping it. When driving back home on the two lane it seemed a lot stronger than it has been. But being ran hard may have purged air out as well. Unless the cleaner eats up the return system I'm sure the cleaning helped but I'm gonna still put the clear lines on so I can for sure pinpoint any trouble. Thanks for the reply.
I hope your mother has a speedy recovery.... yea that could definitely do both clean it and purge out old air. the only downside is if you do still have a spot where it's getting in the issue will come back. If you want email me anytime at meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
@Francis Sickle michigan
Hi Mike, love the videos by the way, well anyways i have a 1991 FSuper duty diesel dually 7.3 idi, i finally replaced the starter and today when i was cranking it over the water in fuel light came on that is just below the wait to start light, so i quit cranking it and now i am wondering what to do next ? should i drop the tank im only running on the front tank. and if i drop the tank to clean it out then should i hook a pump to the line to suck out any fuel that has water in it or blow the line out from the front ? i am so stuck can you help me ? Thanks either way i just wanted to ask , i'm just learning about this truck . Have a nice day ! Mark
The oem studd has a water fuel separator Id first try draining that to see just how watery the diesel is. If it dont look too bad id run it with a diesel fuel additive I forgot the name of which one draws out moisture
@@groundtogreen1140 Thanks Mike, i saw one guy said 91% isopropol alcohol you can get from walgreens or the dollar store so im gonna try that. Doesn't my fuel filter have a knob on the bottom to release water ? i will check and see but thanks for helping me : ).
@@howtocreatesculptures6713 yes it should
I have a 94 f250 idi which is giving me issues with the rear fuel tank when I switch to it the truck starts to stumble as if there was no fuel (even with full tank) the front tank works fine until it reaches 1/4 , can you give me some insights on where to start troubleshooting, thanks in advance
at 1/4 or less giving ya issues sounds like that pickup tube inside tank it degrades over time
nice vid... I have a problem, I keep blowing the gasket out the fuel bowl....any reasons why?
you mean that spin on deal on the filter itself? id just delete it and get a one piece fuel filter. the factory style has been known to leak or sieze up
Hey man I’m having trouble with my idi loss of power when first accelerate. White smoke when start up when hot or cold? Any ideas!!!
potentially a fuel delivery issue check your inlet pressure should be at least 3-5 psi running and check the shrader valve to verify air isn't a variable as well. Smoke on first start up is normal but it should clear up after idling
What size hose and push connects did you use to replace hardline to fuel pump housing?
3/8
What would cause no fuel in the return line
since you plugged the return line check what did you do to cap the 90 plastic cap that the return line was feeding from?
Pleasure Cruise limo I bought a brass tee and looped it into itself
ok, what location did u install tee?
did you take the 1-1/4 nut off the filter housing, and what size tap and plug.... thanks
Pleasure Cruise limo put it in passengers rear cap and one up from it. Filter housing is tapped for 1/8 npt
I'm having an issue with my 93 IDI and I can't find any help videos for the problems I'm having. Can you help?
Kyle Francom maybe what's up
I have what i believe is a 6.9 in a 1985 International S1600 medium duty dump truck it has developed a problem that has been stumping me, it will start right up but shuts off as quick as it starts. It will rev up if you hold the throttle while starting but still shuts off just as quick. Do you have any suggestions? It is non turbo mechanical fuel pump and mechanical injection.
Wade Toney any other info. Does it hot or cold, have ya tested fuel pressure at the filter housing (4-6 is ideal but can run even on 3), can ya get it to idle at all
If you are getting fuel as Mike suggested back probe the wire on the run side of your switch, after cranking when you let off and it snaps back see if you lose power, 70s and 80s ford switches was notorious for that gas or diesel, it very well could be the switch
also could it be the check valve on the top of the Injection pump where the fuel enters the IP
james berry sounds like you probably have a small return line leak do you see any wet looking spots by the top of the injectors?
what year is the IDI ?Mine is a 1994 pre powerstroke IDI, is it the same stock set up because it looks a little different than mine in the filter head housing dept.
Robert Moreno his is forced air "turbo" you may have a n/a naturally aspirated.
Sorry just seen this comment this turbo kit wasn't factory sold from hypermax
Sorry just seen this comment this turbo kit wasn't factory sold from hypermax
I have a bog at 3/4 to full throttle most of the time sometimes it’s will run fine but you’ll floor it and it will down shift then bog egts are climbing but if you lift off the Pedal to about half throttle it’ll rev back un bog and haul ass back a full throttle what would cause that
hmm maybe a fuel restriction somewhere or potentially a sticking metering valve. Imo I would try a heavy dose of fuel cleaner and if problem persists I'd start trouble shooting and inspecting from there.
I hope you see this comment but I just recently acquired a 7.3 idi runs great but when ever I start the truck it blows white smoke from the exhaust but once it runs for a few minutes it stops. Wonder if you had any Idea why it would do that. Or is it normal.
could be timing, or ip related most likely. Some smoke on startup is normal. If you can acquire a timing meter it doesn't hurt to check it. Idis will also run advanced for s little bit on first startup as well until it kicks the solenoid off on the ip
Just a heads up, had an issue on my 6.9idi the IP has a valve inside that can start to stick and have an issue returning to normal after a rev or on a shift which can kill the motor. I replaced the IP and it went away.
wassup599 yup a metering valve had mine stick too little atf in the fuel cleared it right up
Mike Grn yeah i tried atf and it ran for about a week or two and started messing up again
wassup599 yea needed a heavier duty cleaner then I've had mine stick about 3x this last year before it smoothed out
My 86 idi just died at a stop light when she started idling rough like it’s trying to be cammed out Chevy. She cranked over for like 5 seconds fired up and I got out of traffics way but she started surging while accelerating or just cruising. Like one second she’s got full power the next she’s bogging out. Not much smoke comes from her at all accept when she’s started on cold mornings
air intrusion
Hey Mike, I have 6,9 I change my sending unit, and notice that the stainer was not on the old sending unit, so I put the new sending unit in without the strainer. Now not starting, Will the engine suck in air,
It will suck in air if tank is below 1/4 without that strainer. A more permanent fix is taking submersible rated fuel line , v notching the end and installing that on the new sender
Great videos, I've been learning a lot about these engines and they have been very helpful with my first IDI.. here recently I get a hard start in the morning..cranks 10-15 seconds and then fires up. Rest of the day it fires up on the first hit. I have good power up to about 60 mph (E4OD trans). Anything above that I will drop back to 45-55mph even on a gradual hill. And if I don't drop speed you can feel a very small, slight surge at steady throttle on a slight grade or under easy load. If you get on the throttle hard it eases up or will downshift and be fine. Does this sound like air intrusion to you? I appreciate your time.
air or fuel delivery/restriction issue
@@groundtogreen1140 Thank you for your reply. I found the rubber line from the fuel supply to the lift pump had a kink in it.. I put a longer piece of line there to where it has a straight shot to the pump. I checked fuel pressure and I have 4-4.5 psi at idle. While slowly revving engine I can watch fuel pressure drop to 2-2.5 and then struggles to come back up going back to idle. Then sometimes I'll lose pressure altogether and it has so much air, I have to manually crank it to bleed it before it will fire back up. Now..two things, it has a new lift pump on it (previous owner installed). Second, while checking the fuel pressure I saw one of the hard injector lines spraying a very very small mist of fuel from around the vibration clamp area. I'm going to replace the line that's sprung a leak, and I understand that air is being pulled in from there and getting to the injector, but would that also explain my fuel filter light and the air that is getting back to the fuel filter head or do you think I should still do more investigating from my fuel supply? I know it's hard to do this over a computer lol but I really appreciate it.
@@WorldsMotorsports iirc the filter light is vacuum related Idk if it clicks on with air in the system mine never did but it should come on if there is a restriction. Clear line from lift pump could eliminate any question of air from your supply
@@groundtogreen1140 I will give that a try! Thank you!
@@WorldsMotorsports late reply, but did you ever figure the issue out? I have that same issue you described
Do you know what to look up to get the o ring in the hardline going into the housing?
it's just a square cut o ring I had to get em at the international dealership...... I hate the way those sealed up so that's why I ran push lock fittings
Ok thanks, I might try your way but I'm not very experienced and gave several fuel leaks to try and fix on a budget
Do I need to replace the lift pump even though I just did it?
why would you think that
Mikegreen that’s what I’m gonna do first sir I gotta fix my fuel leak it’s the main line coming from the tanks it’s about under the drivers door so I believe that’s most of my problem from just watching the video and I’m gonna check my glow plugs while I’m at it
Excellent video! Do u have a link to those clear lines? Do they have to be rated for a certain something?
It was called 1/4" chemical line and I bought it from menards. The diesel eventually deteriorates it but takes awhile. They never leaked just got a little more brittle I think after 2 years or something
Hi, I'm hoping You could help me. I have an 84 f250 6.9 idi with an ats turbo on it and 100,000 og miles. It started up right away every time until the ip went bad. So I figured when I replaced the ip id replace the injectors too, along with all the o rings and caps... Anyways, the truck has trouble starting no matter what the temp is outside. It takes a good 6 seconds or more for it to fire, then when its running there's a haze of white smoke. I already bought another return line kit and installed it, but the problem still persists. If I shut it off and restart it within a minute it will start right up. What should I do?
where did ya buy the ip and have ya verified good fuel psi from lift pump
@@groundtogreen1140 I bought the ip from penascola diesel. I'm not sure about the lift pump pressure, quite a bit of fuel comes out though, id say a 1\2 pint in 8 seconds of cranking. If I let it sit a while no fuel will spray out of the little valve unless I crank it, is that normal for a mechanical pump? Also, this morning I installed a manual glowplug relay kit and new battery terminals, it will start right up after holding the momentary switch for about 6 seconds before cranking but still has the white smoke issue and runs rough for about 5 seconds then it runs great, but with faint white smoke. I'm thinking it still has an air leak somewhere.
@@chapekfabrication2975 Pensacola Diesel doesn't have a very good reputation I've had a couple people I know get bad pumps straight out the box from them
@@groundtogreen1140 I'll keep fiddling around with it and see what happens before I buy a new pump from r&d
@@groundtogreen1140 Also I just watched your return line video, I noticed when I popped an injector cap off the o rings were sliced. I think the cap cuts them when popping them on?
My 7.3 only has hard starts after sitting over night or longer. I have replaced all the return line outings already. I am suspecting the air leak somewhere around the filter housing... Any suggestions?
Yea plug the line from filter housing to caps and see if anything changes sounds like a leakdown to me. Also possible one of the fittings in housing itself is letting air in) schrader valve if bad
@@groundtogreen1140 thanks. I will replace the Schrader valve and try plugging off the return. Get back to you
Ok so I do believe I'm having this problem on my 1991 7.3l idi. Started doing it in January of this year after I changed the fuel water separator. I've changed the return lines and injector cap o-rings to try and fix it but it only helped a little. It stopped doing it once it got warm out again so all summer I had believed it was fixed but now that it's getting cold again (low 30's) it has to crank longer than normal in order to start. It's seems to have to build up fuel pressure before it starts. And since it only does it when it's cold out is strange. Do you know anything else I could try in order to fix this. Soon it'll be even colder and it doesn't like to start at all then even when plugged in.
have you checked resistance to see if your glow plugs are working?
I replaced the glow plugs and injectors when I replaced the return lines.
And yes they work great with no resistance. And I also had replaced the glow plug controller/solenoid.
the temperature thing is normally s glow plug associated. I'd feel your block heater cord and verify it gets warm and don't start it with it plugged in apparently some guys have said it can short it out. Did you use mototcraft glow plugs zd9s? If you haven't already done so I'd consider an electric fuel pump conversion occasionally a bad lift pump can cause those symptoms. it's not horribly uncommon for it to start a little harder because oil is more viscous in winter. if all that checks out I'd definitely do a compression test. my truck always started when cold but earlier this year mine got harder to start because my injection punp was slowly going out.
if it's air related it'll definitely bog down or immediately cut off after started when cold. and of course you'll have air coming out the filter housing
My 89 idi was running fine, but driving down the road it just shut off entirely. Any idea where to start looking for issues?
I always start with the olive seals on the feed lines or the return line injector caps
We’re can I find all the push lock fittings to eliminate the 2 hard lines and the green o rings that go on top of the injectors
I sell kits for the factory fuel pump to the filter head and another from filter head to the injection pump. As for the o rings on top of the injectors any parts store can hook ya up with a fuel return line kit for those or if ordered separate I think the listed size was a 111 last time I ordered em
@@groundtogreen1140Hello how much$ are the 2 soft fuel lines with fittings gs to replace the hard lines? 89 7.3 idi na
@@twosaddlemules email me meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
My pickup smokes white when it’s cold, it sputters and blows white when I first drive it after I start it. It also starts hard when the engine isn’t warmed up, and when it finally fired it sounds rattle and runs like garbage. Does this sound like air intrusion?
yea some of the symptoms it could be have you checked your schrader valve for air first? consistent fuel pressure there as well?
Yeah it’s not leaking
so no air at schrader ?
When I push the bleeder it squirts diesel when it’s running that’s how I prime it when it runs out of fuel
ran it low on fuel now it has that turbo lag symptom and Ive cracked the injectors and poped the valve but still does it? any idea?
my money is on the pickup rube inside of the tank if it continues to do it but could just have gotten air in the system from that and it can be a mother to get it out make sure tank isnfull and keep popping the filter bleeder valve too
Thanks! I believe its the pick up tube in the tank because there is always a little bit of air that comes out of the valve on the filter.
I have a 7.3 idi an sometimes when I'm goin down the road it will start missing an blowing smoke when I hit the throttle what u think it can be thanks
I got the same problem. I think it’s an injector
Iv got the same problem, i could use advise if you guys figured it out yet
What year
awesome mods
My '88 7.3 idi runs well on the rear tank, but surges on the front, even with a full tank. Could a the fuel tank switch have an air leak?
I would check or replace the fuel line from the tank that surges to the selector switch valve.
@@shanechostetler9997 Thanks!
Hey, got a 89 7.3 idi. Had slight miss at idle and when cruising above 2000 rpm it stumbles like its starving for fuel. New injectors, lift pump, fuel filter, return lines, glowplugs and relay. Starts hard cold, or hot. Starts better when it's not at full operating temp. 120k on the dial. Suspecting injection pump, but I wanna be sure before I drop that kinda cash
2 month late reply but you may want to be sure ther is no restrictions before the pump first such as clogged pickup in the tank, bad lift pump, in tank or on engine, clogging debris in line somewhere between tank and injection pump, i have seen many people drop alot of money on everything from Injection pump to replacement engine and the underlying problem being in the tank
Wolfman Rebel
Ok, pulling a trailer it runs fine cuz I'm into the throttle more. Still misses a bit at idle but i did a 500 mile round trip run pulled a parts truck out to a buddies and not a single stutter under throttle. Wonder if its not warn parts in the pump and once you get past that point if it don't smooth out.
Wolfman Rebel
batteries were shit, starts fine now hot or cold.
@@christophertheisen6536 it is very possible, honestly those things haven't been made for so many years of I planned to keep it I would start saving for new pump(s) , lines, injectors and depending on blowby a full rebuild, they are your most economical choice to rebuild compared to others and once it's done you are good for a long long time
Wolfman Rebel
Alright man, I plan on keepin it. Fun old truck
Clear lines are the best
My 92 7.3 idi won't start after shutting it off. Acts like it's loosing it's prime or is sucking air from somewhere. How do I fix this issue?
Justin Muldovan sounds like air is leaking in from the return side. Done any diagnostic investigating yet from above video? More than likely return lines/o rings
Mike Grn I have only looked at the lines. Haven't had time to really look into it. I have new injectors and return lines to put on it when I have time.
Justin Muldovan I have the same problem sir can you help me and what did you do to it
Alright I have a 94 7.3 idi w/turbo and it will start but starts hard and it won’t run much longer than about 5 seconds in idle
Fix it yet
noticed you deleted the return line to the filter housing. Why was this necessary and did you just cap the lines? Thanks
Yes it was because it was causing an internal drain back creating a small initial air instrusion
@@groundtogreen1140 awesome I think I’ll have to do the same. I accidentally ran engine out of fuel completely after installing new fsv wrong and it’s been impossible to start ever since
@@groundtogreen1140 ok great. Follow up question haha. With your electric pump, when the engine is on, do you get fuel out of your Schroeder valve? Mine doesn’t. I capped the return line port on the filter housing. I have the pump hooked up to the gpc like yours but did you do a relay setup and maybe I’m just not getting enough power? Sorry many questions
@@Gitrdone97 key on yes I do because I hooked it on the key on terminal
@@groundtogreen1140 oh ok I may have it on the wrong terminal then thanks!
I still have the fuel heater, I just sealed where it leaks with the element still intact with some tank sealant. This was the source of my agony with fuel intrusion
I’m actually having a problem with my 6.9 IDI And I use a 7.3 fuel filter I’m actually getting air intrusion leaking fuel from The bottom of the metal bowl on the filter
simple delete buy the 1 piece fuel filter
@@groundtogreen1140 where can I get the one piece filter and what do I ask for exactly?
@@webbhogle1144 any parts store should sell em fram ps8132 is one part # i think
@@groundtogreen1140 Thank you for the quick response, I'll give that a try.
Do you still have your IDI?
The 94 yes
hey man is there a way I can pm you? I need some advice on getting my truck started. thanks
yea do you have a facebook? I'm on messenger
+Mike Grn I don't but I can make one
+Jakob Davis email me then meanmikegreen@yahoo.com
+Mike Grn alright I just emailed you
Como puedo chekiar si Tengo Corrientes en el connector del gloplac de una pickup Ford 250 disol
Did you run JIC fitting at the IP? Believe those are 1/2-20 NPT at the pump. I just ordered the following at NAPA was looking for a 90 degree fitting. www.napaonline.com/en/p/GATG375080605
yea I did I actually sell kits too
wish I had known about the kit...do you have a link?
MG IDI PARTS on facebook
Nope, mine is the 7.3 Garrett Turbo IDI also.
can a guy call you up?
I got a 93 7.3 she starts but when I push gas she just shuts off any ideal wht can that b .?
metering valve is sticking most likely run a heavy fuel cleaner dose in it