How I Transformed My Loft Storage with This Simple Trick
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- čas přidán 3. 02. 2024
- 👋Hi all - while I took time off from CZcams over Christmas and New Year, one DIY we needed to sort out was storage in our attic as our Christmas decorations were out longer than they should have been...
So much so, that I started to look like a Christmas-obsessed weirdo to people who came around to price up jobs for new stoves and delivery drivers 😅
To rectify this, it was time to build some cheap and easy loft shelving on a budget that I'd seen at my Dad's house a few years ago.
And the great news is, you don't need many tools or materials... hope you like this shelving hack!
If you're new here, you can catch up on my whole auction property renovation adventure here:
➡️ How I installed a DIY loft ladder: • How l installed a DIY ...
➡️HOW we lost THOUSANDS struggling to get back on the property ladder: • We could've been PROSE...
➡️Our experience risking all of our money bidding on an auction property: • We RISKED IT ALL biddi...
➡️A sneak peek inside our new house: • FULL HOME TOUR: I boug...
➡️And how we found it's worse than we thought due to a mouse infestation: • We moved into our new ...
➡️ Trying to fix leaks • We tried to fix the le...
➡️ A drone tour of our new 4 acre abandoned farm • The UGLY TRUTH about o...
➡️ Plasterboarding our dining room • I tried plasterboardin...
And MANY MORE ADDED...
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➡️1m spirit level geni.us/Pw0Qd5 [Amazon]
➡️CLS 38 x 63 x 2400mm timber for battens
➡️Shelving 18mm thick MDF sheet material
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Hi, I am a retired structural engineer and having watched this video have a few concerns that you might want to consider. 1. The internal members are called struts and ties, they are designed to resist axial loads from roof, ceilin, wind and snow. You have introduced a point load that introduces bending in the members that they will probably not been designed for. 2. These struts and ties have been connected to the top and botomm cords with a single rectangular spiked plate , these have a fixed capacity and sized to suit the loads calculated at the design stage and I am pretty sure this would not have included “Shelving & storage”. 3. Snow and wind loading are are considereed as short term “Variable’ loading, so if there is no snow on the roof or significant wind loading there will be some spare “capacity’ within the truss frame to accomodate the installed ‘shelving” and that is probably why everything currently appears OK 4. In terms of standers variable loft loading a standard design load of 0.25kN/m2 is used and is applied to the bottom chord, this is usually sufficient fo allow the home owner to board out the loft and use for box storage (Just to give you and idea of what 0.25 comparres to the standard 1st and ground floors design loading, a figure of 1.5kN/m2 is used for these area, for the loft area, we are talking of just under 17%) 6. Lastly, there is the issue of deflection, with increased long term loading the trusses will defelct more and that could lead to cracks appearing in the plasterboard ceiling
Could I ask that you advise your viewers to have their roof structures checked for their intended modification and signed off by a competent/qualified person before starting
Aye, I mean, lets be honest, it'll probably be absolutely fine and live on without issue, but I would personally never f with a roof unless I knew what I was doing, or had talked to someone who does...
Iv looked at the long range weather forecast, and there wont be snow or high winds for the next 50 years.
@@sorbetingleSorry but this is mis-information. You just need to look at the latest video to see the recent damage caused by high winds that brought a significant sized tree down. The property is not located in an urban environment where there would be lots of buildings/structures to reduce the impact of high winds, they are clearly located out in the open countyside; A line of trees on the boundary is a traditional winbreak used in this type of location , but if planted now, could take up to ten years to become effective
Do you have any advise on how to strengthen the trusses in order for this idea to be safe?
@@sorbetingle lol
Make your own stilts from CLS offcuts. Cut one the length of the height you want to raise by then cut another that's 75mm longer, then screw them together so they're flush at the top and a 75mm difference at the bottom. Place the bottom of the shorter piece on top of your joist then put a couple of screws through the longer one and into the side of the joist.
I used kitchen cabinet legs to support the deck I put into my daughter's loft. The 'legs' were easy to buy and cost effective back in 2010. The floor was stabilised by borrowing lateral support from the roof structure.
@richardjones5255 - sorry, what do you mean by the floor being stabilised " by borrowing lateral support from the roof structure." please? Also, any particular kind of cabinet legs? Thanks
With a can of different coloured spraypaint spray on the joists, where water crosses, and electricity with arrows indicating flow, so in a few years, you can send a contractor up there, and they will be able to read the loft without moving insulation, so connectors, taps, and important things are marked off. You could do a laminated map of the space as well, clipped to the side, and then you will get contractors in and out quicker. Also be aware that with some solar companies you are renting your loft space, and they dont like people up there in the way. Oh and nice to see this update,
Ooh, I really like that idea! I think we'll have to do that!
For the insulating floors, only bother where your feet get cold. I find a non contact thermometer useful to tell you where the floor is cold (but feet are very good at knowing :D). We've got a combination of uninsulated concrete, uninsulated suspended floors and insulated concrete. It depends on what the soil conditions are as to how much you'll gain with insulating, we're on very well drained sand so there's not a huge thermal loss through the floors, if your soil is much heavier and wet then you'll lose a lot more. You also lose the majority of your heat through the perimeter of a slab floor (whether insulated or not). Our suspended floor is by far the coldest because the uninsulated concrete floors are entirely internal and cold air can get to the whole of the underside of the suspended floor.
As for the methods of insulating, about the only ones I've really found without digging up the concrete is thick underlay and carpet, for effective insulation you require space or a lot of money!
Thats answered my question too 🤗
Ive recently bought a bungalow in Meir Heath Staffs. The floors are all concrete and we’re told its like Siberia in the Winter. The previous owner had very thick underlay and carpets which I pulled up but will renew with the same method
As you found out, a plastic bag on the dust extractor won’t work. It needs a cloth bag so the air can escape through it.
Great video. For the legs on your main loft floor you can use loftzone store floor legs and beams. They are very strong and will lift your boards up high enough to allow circulation etc
Great video VIKKIE ,just love watching you because I understand everything your putting across fantastic tutor xxxx❤
Hi. Treat yourself to a three-line laser level. Best tool I've bought for a couple of years! I'm surprised how much I use it. (OK, you've done the loft shelves now, but)... I would use it to throw a dead horizontal line across multiple uprights all at once, and bishbashbosh plopping your support rails into place on the line! My spirit levels still make the occasional appearance to check stuff, but not setting out.
I can agree.
I was so long unsure if I should by a 3 by 360 degrees laserliner.
There's only one thing about it: I should have bought it years before. Not first just a cross-line one, or then a Typ with one 360 degrees and another laser line with about 120 degrees...
Great job there Vikkie so much better in your loft now with everything that you have done, and neater as well. Take Care.
Barry (the Wirral)
I have a very similar roof structure and I raised the flooring for deeper insulation by screwing 4"x2" CLS timber edge-on to each horizontal joist, with the screws recessed about 2". Then just placed the boards on these. I subsequently found out about plastic loft floor risers, specifically designed for this purpose, but both approaches work.
Thank you for the tip on the shelving, I will be copying that 🙂
Hi Vikkie, Great work a good use of loft space ,keep up the great work that your doing ,catch you on the next one👍👍
Thanks so much 😀
I'd be wary of storing cd / dvd in the loft. Ideally they should be stored between 10 deg C and 20 Deg C. Think how hot it can get in the loft during summer. Easily over 40 Deg C.
Brilliant video, it's given me some ideas, as where I live there is alot in the attic, and I was going to use a loft ledge system pretty much similar to the Idea that you've gone for 👍👍👍
Looking good up there.
Omg your Doggo is absolutely beautiful.
Excellent video! I undertook a similar project but opted for 9mm plywood to lessen the overall weight. Additionally, I added a 9mm plywood floor running along the length of the loft. I installed 2000x77x30mm beams between each pair of webbing, spaced 1740mm apart. Securing them with 6mm bolts and lock nuts was crucial to ensure the bolds didn't come lose, and carefully positioned the holes in both the beam and webbing was necessary to bear the weight without risking the wood splitting. The beams were positioned 430mm above the bottom cord to allow airflow above the loft insulation. For the flooring, I used 9mm plywood sheets, which were flexible but minimised weight. Each sheet was secured in place with a few screws at each end, allowing for easy removal to access the ceiling and cables beneath.
well done
I put cable tray (cheap second hand ones) around my attic a similar fashion to your boards. I ran all my electrical cable on these so they were not hidden under insulation. I used the tray for storage like yourself afterwards.
I wouldn’t dismiss loft legs. I used them and have been happy with the results. I drilled access holes in the floor for cable routes down to light fittings or switches. I drilled 100mm holes and covered them with 100mm aluminum checker plate. Great work in the attic though!
I did exactly the same in my loft last year & used T&G Chipboard & OSB loft boards for the shelving between the trusses. Used a laser to set up & level all the supports - very handy for all sorts of jobs around the house. Next job is to raise up the T&G floor I put in 35 years ago to get more insulation under it. I went for a Loftzone Store Floor kit. LED battens for lighting as well as Loft Lids to cover the downlights in the loft before I cover them with more insulation. Thinking about putting in a larger loft hatch in as well so I can get a hot water tank in the loft at a later date.
I am looking to make shelves like yours, the lip at the back is a cracking idea as I am a klutz !!! When we boarded our loft I used loft legs and sheets of osb 😊
great job and practical ideas as ever 😍 I'd be concerned about the CDs and DVDs in the summer though!
Another brilliant video Vicky you have my support we always say use it or hide it if you put them in kitchen cabinet so much wasted space for decorations such a nightmare 😊
Great way to make use of the space without covering or compressing the floor insulation.
We agree! 😀
Have a look at Marmox for the floor. Comes in many thicknesses
Nice Job VlKKIE ❤
Really great storage solution using that awkward space between the roof truss sections. Glad you are keeping the DVD's, I far prefer having my films etc on physical format, that can't disappear overnight at the whim of a scammy streaming service. Oh sorry to hear your Stihl bluetooth headphones died - I have a pair myself and love them. Send her a new pair Stihl!
Hi Vikkie loving your vlogs each week keep up the good work also was nice listening to you on the radio with jim davis
Thanks so much and glad you enjoyed my radio appearance 😀 I should be back on there 25th Feb, about 11:40pm-ish 😀
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK ill be listening again give me a shout out if ya can vikkie 😀😀
Hi, good storage solution, the same as I have installed in my loft. I would not store CD's and tapes in the loft as they will melt/warp in the summer. Regarding the flooring support just use lengths of CLS above the insulation as joists and board over them. Same as your shelving.
A really good video, Vikkie.
Firstly, I'm pleased to see you not using that MDF as boarding - I find the stuff too slippery to walk on, even when my feet are dry.
What you've done for shelving is superb. No need to board out in to the hard to reach eaves.
I've used those plastic riser feet (whatever they're called) and they're very strong. Perfect for a loft that's used for storage, which I imagine will suit your needs and they're easy to fit.
Oh and when you do come to board it, I personally prefer to use 2.4m x 600mm sheets... They'll have to be cut to length before they'll fit through the hatch but I find them easier to fit than those 1220mm x 330mm boards you can buy.
If your joists are at 600mm centres, you'll want 22mm board anyway.
@@OllyParryJones I used 2400mm x 600mm sheets on my last section to board out. As you said you need to cut them before putting them up the loft as they become quite difficult to move around in such small spaces. I probably would have cut them down more than I did to make it easier if I was doing it again. I can see the benefit of the smaller boards though with weight and maneuverability.
You could put lengths of 3x2 in between the two storage bays giving an air gap of an inch for the floor insulation, with studs on the floor joists giving support. Then fill in with flooring (sorry don't measure in metric)
I did what you've done in the loft of my old house so it's good to see other people doing the same. I also boarded a part of the loft floor with 18mm T&G boards on little loft stilts that sit on top of the joists. As you said you want to try maintaining a little gap between the boards and the insulation.
Great minds think alike 😀 How did you make your stilts?
I bought them 😊most DIY places have them if you search 'loft stilts'@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK
Hello Vicki our loft needed doing, abit of mess of course but need boards for our shelves in the loft makes it look nicer tidy
👍👍👍.Thank you Vikkie
❤️
We had our loft boarded to accommodate the 300mm insulation and they used metal upstands attached to the ceiling bearers and then interlocking chipboard panels. Excellent. The boarding is certified to be good for so much weight per square foot, way more than we need. I'm the heaviest thing on the boards when I stand up there!
Are the brackets attached v shaped?
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK yes, I think so from what I have seen in Wickes, but I didn’t see them doing the job.
Your loft is the same as mine. And l did that in a few areas for storage and l haven’t overloaded in one area. Either way if you put too many things on the shelf your putting weight of your roof rafters that could cause a problem. What l found is the bedroom ceiling plaster has now cracked due to the shelving in the loft. I only put Xmas tree and a few bits up there.
One option for the floor is the underfloor heating insulation which comes in 6mm, 10mm, 12mm thickness. XPS or EPS foam normally. If you have not the hight then just a good thermal underlay is better than nothing.
Nice idea. I wish I had thought of this before I filled my attic with over 45-50 cm of blown in insulation. But it also gave me a great excuse to tell wifey we just can't keep collecting stuff.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
you could try 20mm thick vacuum insulation panels, for your floor.
I had a similar issue requiring boarding down the middle of the loft through the trusses. I simply fastened 3 X2 CLS across the ceiling and above the insulation to the angled spars extending the floor supports so that they attached to at least two of the angled spars on each side to spread the load.The frustrating part owing to the shallow pitch of the roof was being forced to use the small loft boarding panels which of course did not match the joist spacing so each had to be cut and losing nearly a quarter of the length on each
DVDs and CDs...
I've bought several Storage cases(Mediarange BOX77) that holds 500 discs each, and are slowly sorting and placing the discs in the cases. I toss away the CD/DVD covers, but keep the inserts for the CDs, and the cover for the DVDs.
For most of the CDs the case wasn't anything to keep anyway as a lot of them were cracked, or the tabs holding the center of the CD had broken off.
DVD covers take up a LOT of space...
Two exceptions, though; the Doctor Who collection is unmolested, and also All Creatures Great and Small.
You have to also ask yourself were the trusses designed with the idea of being a ceiling or a floor with regard to loading. People get carried away storing junk in attics that are really designed for additional loads. Obviously not talking about a couple of christmas trees but went to a house with obvious bowed ceilings to find an antique sewing machine collection being stored up there. Boxes of books etc soon add up !
Watching from USA Madison Wisconsin. So hello from the states!!
Hi 👋 thanks for watching & hope you're enjoying them 😊
Perfect timing. I was actually going to start doing something similar in mine today - there's still time to measure up at least.
Very interested to see what you do in the middle section, I'll wait for you to do it then copy it But will make a start on the sides.
I can use up some scraps I have too. I was thinking that if I batten both sides of the trusses, then I could even slot in separate pieces in each gap rather than one long board. This has the advantage of using up smaller bits of chipboard etc I'm thinking of old kitchen cupboards etc. I hoard too much of that stuff.
Yes, if I had old wardrobe doors etc or anything long and flat, I'd do the same as you 😊 Once I've found the best method for boarding the loft (I've watched SO many video on this 😅) I'll be ready 😊 It may be a few weeks or months though.
About to get my own solar done in a couple of months. Interested to see how yours goes.
Great content as always Vikkie - follow with interest since discovering your channel..... Nice solution for the storage as ceiling joists aren't designed to be load bearing in the way that most people use them (ie boards directly on top and spanning the joists), Using loft raisers (loft legs etc) don't achieve anything different either!! Best solution is to use the tension bearers (as you have done here) and create a "raised floor" by tying into the angled beams with 2 x 6 or 2 x 8s and placing boarding on top of these
As for your flooring issue, maybe a suspended floor type solution with some form of insulation (PIR maybe??), low joists with ply/MDF over and then either traditional floorboards (supplied by Dad maybe??) which can be stained, oiled etc., or engineered boards over the top..... End of the day it's your call on the solution your choose... You've shown creativity and nous here anyway!! Typical Yorkshire lass!! By 'eck!! Tha'll do for me!!......Cheers...Chris
Great video, as always, I only every buy Spax screws now. I’ve been disappointed by so many manufacturers. The impact drivers don’t suit all screws.
could you make a walk way the same way you made the shelves?
Buy the screwfix or toolstation loft plastic raisers or something like that. I got the max height you can get and put boards on it and the house is warm and you still get somewhere to walk on 😊
Pallets are a bit heavy to throw around for your loft flooring but failing that, I'd be inclined to layout some 2x6-12 bearers (whatever you can scrounge) and toss your fibre boards on top of that.
Impact driver in an enclosed space... you might want to use ear PPE, the noise eventually gave me tinnitus.
What is about the pencil when doing carpentry... I am working in two places and the things go missing so you go off and get another one... when clearing up you find five pencils within a few cm of each other.
We have a summer house that has an issue with the boards but down for the floor, rotting, so to make out the boards that need to be removed I tried carpenters crayon almost impossible to see, pencil wasn't obvious either so I got chalk. Cheap simple and works a treat, although my wife asks why I am scribbling on the floor.
I went all-in on plastic XL loft legs and 600mm chipboard flooring panels. Easy(ISH) to fit and the storage space created was huge!
Hardest bit was tearing holes in the insulation to locate the legs and screw them to the joists.
Tips... Laser level and an impact driver with a long magnetic bit extension
I put my pencil in my ponytail, so I know where it is all the time loving your show
I've done this a few times... then forget where it went until I get in the bath 😅😅
Have you considered the amount of dust that your Christmas decorations will collect during the year? Don't use biodegradable black bags as you will end up with a loft full of black fluff. At my last house, I used OSB with 100m PIR backing for the loft floor.
A very clear, step-by-step guide of how to do it. Who amongst us doesn't wish we had more storage space? The back lip is a top tip.
Thank you. Totally stole that tip off my Dad 😆
To raise the floor make cross saddles from OSB to fit over the ceiling joists, buying ready made plastic joist legs are expensive..
Use strips of wood under the MDF sheets, then secure them with brackets to your loft battons with brackets. This will spread the load and will not compress the insolation.
we have the same problem with the floor in our sixties house. there's not an awful lot of information about how to overcome the cold concrete floor but i'm presently thinking a thin layer of insulation and carpet would be the best... also thought thin insulation, floating t&g chipboard and carpet but the heights with external doors could be an issue...i have loads to do here before i tackle the floor, the list is endless. 😂
Good video. only thought i have would be that the wood must be treated. I've heard of entire lofts ruined from using wood that was reclaimed. it was a fungal thing I think..long time ago when i was told this.. also, structural alteration to the roof-structure downwards extra pull. I suppose this could be a handy idea to factor in to a new build. maybe by using stronger timbers than usually required? nice idea good for storage if do-able
We wrap our tree in binbags so it doesn't collect dust while it's up there for 12 months,.
Good idea!
I have exactly the same issue in my bungalow l bought. But l couldn’t find anyone to do the flooring insulation, l then found out it’s not just the case of laying insulation on top of the concrete floors, you have to dig down into the concrete to insulate. Also you can’t insulated on-top as the floor level will be raised and cause problems with external doors mostly. If your doing it from scratch full Reno then you might have a change of doing it. So it’s not simple to do and I’m not taking out my newly fitted kitchen to do it😊😊
Thanks! Raising the floor isn't putting me off at the mo as whatever I do, I'd plan to do all over if funds allow, to keep them level. I don't mind planing off internal doors, but don't think any external doors here would be problematic. That is, if I find insulation thin enough. Obviously don't want anything too thick
I just gave my entire DVD Collection , about 200, to the local Oxfam Shop. Lady was delighted and said people still buy them . Glad I got rid of them as I haven't watched a DVD in years and were just on the shelf gathering dust.
Do you not miss them? Or did you copy them first? We dug ours out over Christmas... namely our Cornetto trilogy as Netflix didn't have any available 😬
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK I set up a Plex media server with an 8TB external hardrive. Currently I have nearly 700 movies on there. The rare DVDs I ripped using MVKMaker so now have digital copies therefore no longer require the DVD.
Dvds are making a comeback . And some are getting good money. People want original versions .that streaming services don't show or delete
I used a 100mm celotex board for our loft walkway and 11mm OSB board on top. There's a 100mm of loft roll insulation under the celotex of course (between the joists) and 100mm celotex equals to 250mm loft roll (if I remember correctly). So there's plenty of insulation. With this you don't have to worry about pin pointing your ceiling as cellotex+OSB is distributing the load equally across the joists.
Now you can buy a "ready to use" celo+osb board (glued together) but they come up almost twice as expensive.
I second this. 8x4 sheet cut into two x 2ft widths gives you a 16ft walkway. I think I'd run counter battens across the joists, 2x1 end on to give 2" air gap above your first 100mm. Then board with OSB deck, 100mm PIR and top with a deck to walk on. 1 sheet PIR, 2 sheets osb for 16ft of walkway. And for the top deck you could just lay down off cuts of board - OSB, ply, chipboard etc, securing them into the 2x1 at the edges.
I would not screw the shelves down at all (houses very rarely get tipped upside-down!). Just add end stops and drop them in so you can lift and tilt them onto their edge if you need easy access underneath to pipes, wiring, eaves, etc. I would leave a small gap all round of a few mm so as not to distort the struts and it would allow for small individual strut movement which otherwise could cause ceiling cracks, etc.
It gets very dusty in a loft so you might want to throw a cover over your Christmas trees/decorations and get all boxes covered/closed.
Great storage solution Vikkie, instead of expensive perspex why not use builders clear membrane and staple it taut ?
Thank you. I am considering that also if I see it on my travels
If you do not want to go the loft zone route because of cost, why not take a similar approach to the shelving arrangement using stouter timbers to clear the insulation and support the walkways?
I cross battoned our loft , laid insulation between them and fixed 18x600x2400 tongue and groove chipboard flooring ontop. Much better finish than the loft flooring packs
I have an impact driver but don’t routinely use for screw driving, always use the Combi DeWalt, not sure if that is what sheared the screw at the beginning
I didn't have any problems after that. I think I was trying to screw it in at too awkward an angle
Space blanket for the floors? Or insulated lvt.
Make a boarded walkway with legs or offcuts of wood. I wouldn't leave CDs & DVDs up their as summer heat may destroy them - people are buying them more now as streaming gets more expensive and all over the place.
If you're redoing the skirting/architrave, would a floating chipboard floor with pir underneath work? A friend used 25mm pir and it seems sturdy enough
For your saw dust collection could you do something like New North Yorkshire Workshop (I think thats the channel) collect it to mold it into pellets for Heating purposes? I will conceed its mahoosively overkill
For loft boarding you obvvious have 450/600 cant remember the depths from last week's video
If you imagine the loft insulation as lanes that. you put down when you unrolled it could you then add timber to between the 'lanes' to step it up so the boards arent screwing kind of what you've done for the shelving but with the loft insultation underneath
We have FloorQuilt as the final layer with boards on top and have just fitted underfloor heating
Multifoil works best with a double air gap but we have just one on the floor due to not wanting to raise the level if your gong with a batten then boards it compresses 6mm for FloorQuilt and 12mm for superquilt both by YBS and both cheap at £100 for 10m sq
I don't think the insulation rating takes into account of the air gap, the development of these types of multifoil material is off the back of space suit design.
Me personally I would be looking to make my own loft legs, I think common sense would say to make an inverted U shape out of three pieces of timber that would straddle your joists allowing for fixing. A leg every 450mm across a joist should spread loads well and still allow good airflow underneath.
Thanks! I think I'll be inclined to do this!
An XL loft leg is just a £1 though. If the wood is free though that’s a consideration.
I wish i never got rid of all my CDs/DVDs and even my HD DVD's. Unfortunately, when i went digital and ripped all my CDs and DVDs, i was in a position when i really needed the extra cash, and people were still paying good money for physical media, so i sold them all, but now i'd love to still have them. I've still got all the files, it'd just be nice to actually have the physical copies just in case.
To raise the floor up I’ve seen these feet like things almost like a foundation you just put osb or ply on top and it’s acts as a floor I’ll find a link
By what l remember l think the floor insulation had to be a specific thickness. I’m only here temporary in this bungalow as bought blind during lockdown as my house l was buying fell through, l had no choice but to buy this one. Hopefully will sell this year and move on. Good luck with your home, l was looking for something like that for years and couldn’t find anything. I was moving from home to home and doing a lot of Diy/lifting, l paid for it dearly as l twisted my pelvis and have been house bound for the past 8 years. So leave the heavy lifting to your hubby.
You can still fit boards to an insulated loft using pedestals that screw into the top of the joists and have a small adjustment to level the boards. They can cost quite a lot so have a look at kitchen base unit feet, that you can then fit upside down - they do the same job and cost MUCH less. EDIT: What @richardjones5255 said.
You can use a cheap laser called a string to mark the rafters😊
I would suggest dust sheets over your stuff, loft spaces are muck holes
Thanks so much
Ive been meaning to do this myself. After watching its not as daunting as i thought it would be. My last worry is adding too much weight to the trusses. Am I being daft worrying about that?
Wire mesh or possibly plastic mesh might be an alternative solution to perspex? My dad used bubble wrap though I'm not sure about that myself.
Thanks! I'll keep a look out for those too on my travels!! 😀
One thing to remember about storing things in the attic or loft is that as cold as it is in the winter ,conversely it is hotter than hell in the summer . i found this out after storing Christmas decorative candles only to find large puddles of melted wax ? As a solar experimenter myself i can assure you that throwing money at a solar system in a country where the sun rarely shines is just a fools errand and you will die of old age before you see any savings . Do not believe a word the salesmen tell you , they are basically used car salesmen with a new scam. MDF and moisture or humidity do not mix .
I am a little worried about storing the CDs in the attic. I wonder if it will get too hot in the summer and melt or warp them. Also, if you have an old sheet etc, I would drape that over the Christmas trees to keep the dust away. Building the shelves is a really good idea and I will check my attic to see if something like that would work for me.
Thanks so much for the heads up!
I hope your attic/loft doesn't get hot enough to damage your media
Appreciate you want to keep the insulation as thick as possible, but would it not be feasible to board some of the central area to walk on (so you don't accidentally put a foot through your nice new ceiling). I know some DIY stores have these leg thingys (excuse technical term) that you lay the boards on that raise them up a bit. I assume they would still give you roughly enough head height to walk about??
Yes, it's something i'm looking at right now.
i've been looking at lots of options on youtube, i'm not keen on the plastic legs.
but if you look at some of the comments on this video there are some great ideas for me to follow up on.
I was looking at a product called loft zone. It seems sturdier than loft legs and more breathable than wooden options. Would love to know what you think of them x
I thought they looked better than loft legs... I just don't like the price 😂
Could you not construct a wooden gantry over your loft insulation fastening it to the loft supports? It would essentially be the same as the shelves that you have just fitted just closer to the floor. I have no idea if this is possible or even acceptable.
If you want to be cost conscious, you could have just put small steps (triangular blocks) on each rafter web leg instead of long studs. 18mm MDF Is strong enough & won't bend between the webs because they are not very far apart.
Needle Files. Cost about €3:00.
She who must obeyed. Uses Jiff or some such cleaner. I use jif lemon 🍋 to clean the Hob. I have broken the middle jet. But am apprehensive about using an "Easy-out" 😢
If those screws are from screwfix I had the exact same issue with heads snapping!
Toolstation on offer the other week 😅
How about netting for shelfs 👍👍
Very very good idea!
In the 1950’s house we’ve recently bought I have put 5mm foil backed foam down with 9mm plywood over that. Then whatever flooring on top. Much warmer underfoot than the solid concrete 😅
That's the kind of thing I had in mind. I do wonder if there's special underlay available these days with a foil back on it also?
I used Diall Aquastop underlay@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK
The only issue is if you don't have a membrane. The concrete will sweat .
@@fredjames9867 I sealed the concrete first. But wouldn’t the layers on top of the concrete prevent condensation? I thought it was only a problem for exposed concrete.
I think it would be ok to have those boards down whilst youre up there and then stand them up before you leave..
Why so you need to insulate a solid concrete floor? I dont think thay increase the SAP
You selling christmas trees now 😊
😆😆
The gold standard would be 50 mm thick solid insulation (foil backed) with underfloor heating then plywood or moister resistant RMDF on top with flooring plank on top. Silver standard 50 mm insulation, RMDF and flooring plank. You also should invest in a laser level; they are coming down in price and once you have used one you will never go back to spirit levels.
loft do a raised floor above insulation done that in my bungallow loft above 450 mm insulatoin easy to do
That’s what I was thinking she would get far more storage and the floor would add to the insulation.
@@rubiccube8953 yep
Silver foil/foam insulation will do next to nothing for actual insulation: it might act as a vapour barrier and provide a little cushioning to the floor; but thermally, it's almost nothing.
I have been doing U value calcs for a bathroom wall i stripped the plaster off - need to hit a U value of < 0.3 to meet Part L. I took into account the brick, render, hardiebacker, tiles etc... (and don't forget the inside and outside skin layers of air!) but the only thing which moved the needle was the insulation thickness: ended up with 50mm PIR between 50mm studs, then 25mm PIR over it.
A floor needs < 0.25U, so even more stringent. Digging out might be your only choice, unf.