5th gen 4Runner Brake Fluid Bleed and Flush. It's EASY
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2023
- In this video we perform an important yet often overlooked maintenance procedure. We will go through the process of flushing the brake fluid on the 5th gen 4Runner to prolong the life and performance of the brake system.
We hope you find this video useful!
You will need:
10mm Flare End Wrench: amzn.to/3U13Hq9
Syringe 60ml: amzn.to/3JmBs0b
Clear Tubing: amzn.to/3UlKaC5
Prestone Dot 3 12oz (5 x bottles): amzn.to/3vZahpb
and an empty clear dry water bottle.
Thanks so much for watching!
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A good tip is to fill your reservoir to the same level it was at. If you top it off it will probably overflow when you put new pads on if you don’t extract some fluid.
Very good tip!
Or just open the bleeder when you compress the caliper - that's the preferred method anyway even though it makes a mess
Thank you for making this video brother! I was experiencing a very spongy pedal that would loose braking power and slowly go to the floor (2011 4Runner). I thought for sure it was the Master Cylinder (around $900) . The brake fluid had never been changed (always stayed full and looked clear). After I followed your tutorial, my brakes feel like brand new! The fluid had soo much water in it I was surprised they didn't completely fail. Now I am going to flush all of my vehicles. God bless from Guam USA👍
Happy to hear that!!! Thank you
Another great video! Thank you. I used your differential fluid change videos over the weekend and went with the Redline fluids.
Thanks so much! Happy you found them useful
Thanks man! No bs, straight to the point, precise information… home run video. Loved the part where you show exactly when to open the nipple, press the pedal, release, etc. Had a hard time to find that! Cheers
dude. get this, After i spent two days switch my caliper. was searching like crazy past few days on how to bleed my 5th gen properly. (with out all the bs this and that and shitty quality videos. search again a few hours ago and your video pops up! thank you, my man! From Phoenix, Az
Nice man! I’d use a partner and just sure they keep pumping until you see no air bubbles coming through into the catch bottle. Cheers!
Great video. Thank you
Awesome. Thanks
Can you please make a video on replacing power steering fluid?
Another great video 👊🏻
I’m actually taking my Trd Pro into Peace Arch Toyota this week for it’s second master cylinder replacement. The original master cylinder had an annoying “clunk”, and I had to argue with the dealership for two years before they finally acknowledged there was a problem & replaced it under warranty. Their lead technician noted that the ABS/accumulator pump was vibrating so bad that it was actually hitting the firewall!
Now it turns out the replacement is also faulty! But a different issue…as whenever I do an emergency stop…the entire vehicle violently banks to the right. This time in Toyota Canada got involved instructing the dealer with some thorough troubleshooting. I got a free wheel alignment etc as they scoured everything…but it was at the dealership for a month! It might just be a 2020-year thing…I don’t know…weird. Hopefully the new one installed this week will do the trick. I’m told it’s a $5000 part. Great, great truck otherwise.
That sounds very frustrating. Can’t believe you haven’t had it for a month! Did they give you a loaner car at least?
@@T4Rgarage no loaner initially, but I demanded one after a few days. So I drove a wacky CH-R for a month lol. Fingers crossed for the new brake unit this week.
I have a 2020 TRD ORP bought new. I don't have the problem you mention, fingers crossed.
Interesting - I have a really annoying “clunk” too. When I push the brake pedal it kind of binds a tiny bit and let’s go and that’s where I hear the clunk. Odd thing is it happens at the beginning of the push then next time at the bottom of the push then nothing then repeats itself. Any similarities?
Thank you for this video I just change my rear break pads. Learning from ur videos.. now for break fluid.. Passen first then driver side it is the same process? Lossen then press?
And then for the both rear.. passen rear first then driver rear same process too right? Thank you so much
How many quarts of brake fluid did you need for this flush on all 4 corners?
why did you have to activate "the pump" when you did the back bleeding ? But the front you just pressed the brake panel ONLY? Thanks
Given the vast similarities to the 4th gen and 5th gen platforms, is it safe to assume that your 3 part series on replacing front rotors/pads, rear rotors/pads, and bleeding the system would all be the same?
Excellent videos, descriptions, and quality. Hoping I can use this to do my complete 4th gen brake job.
Thx man for an other great video. I followed it but for some reason when I did the rear tire, the fluid didn’t flow out easily. I had my wife pressed and released like she did for the front ones. Keys were in ON position. Not sure if it is because mine is an SR5? Anyways, I flushed them, drove it and everything seems working fine.
You just need to press and hold the pedal down to activate the pump. You only release the pedal after the pump has automatically pumped enough fluid out. Pressing the pedal simply activates the pump, it’s not like the front. Hope that helps
On this brake system without a vacuum-based booster is it possible to bleed the brakes using positive pressure on the reservoir, such as with the Motive bleeder?
love your videos and i’m so happy you have this brake series! question, when you’re flushing the rear, are you doing the same “partner brake pump” as you did in the front? not sure if you edited it out or if it’s not necessary
The rear has an electronic pump. So you just have to hold the pedal down and the fluid will get pumped out. You need to be careful though, the fluids pumps quickly so do a bit at a time and top up the brake fluid.
@@T4Rgarage thanks for the info and tips!
A little confused on rear, you had the wrench at the closed position but when you moved to the next frame after starting the car, it was turned to the open position. At what point was the wrench turned to open the valve?
Great video, this is the best brake fluid bleed video I've seen. This would have been helpful a week ago, 2 days before you posted this I was struggling with this process after changing the front calipers. I got it done, though I may do it again since the pedal engages a little lower than it was before. Brakes stop great though, I'm wondering if the previousky firm pedal just had to do with one of the calipers being frozen.
I was doing it kind of reverse as you, I had always heard to have the person pump and hold and THEN you release the bleeder screw while they're holding, tightening the screw before telling them to release.
Thanks so much! The old method of pumping multiples times and then holding and releasing is no longer preferred. The reason for this, is the multi-pump method will turn large air pockets(bubbles) into very small, even microscopic bubbles. These are hard to get out of the system. they will adhere to the inside of the hose and just stick there. Hope that helps
@@T4Rgarage that makes total sense! Thanks for the info. I'll try the bleed again next weekend using this method.
@@T4Rgaragewow. Old school guy here. Thanks for this great video. I’ve been doing it the old way too long. Time for a change.
I didn’t need to press the pedal for the rear. Once the valve is open the electric pump/system will feel the pressure drop and kick on the pump and push fluid out.
Thats exactly what I had to do. I messed up and did it the old school way, pump it ten times then open the bleeder. I realized really fast that I was wrong.
What pressure is in the systm without the pedal being pressed?
I am actually very confused by the 4runner specific brake setup. If anyone has a good article explaining it, I would greatly appreciate it.
I think it’s like when the pump kicks on when you turn the key to accessory mode. The pump is checking system pressure when you first turn the car on. So when the rear valve is open the computer probably senses something change which would kick on that pump. Very interesting but nonetheless makes it extremely easy removing all the old fluid from the reservoir and lines by yourself
So on the Rear bleeding, you just loosened the bleeder valve and pump and release the brakes by yourself? Then tighten the valve after your satisfied with the fluid?
Correct. Just push the brake pedal down a bit and you will hear the pump activate and it will automatically start pushing the fluid out into the bottle. Once it runs clear tighten the valve
Read this article. It explains the proper procedure for the rears.
If want to do this without an assistant, simply fill bottle with clean brake fluid and make sure hose is submerged. Open the bleeder valve and pump the brake to push old fluids. Releasing the brakes (up stroke) won’t induce air because hose is submerged in fluid. Keep repeating process and make sure you top off fluid reservoir not to run out.
That assumes the bleeder screw can’t leak around the threads, which every one I’ve worked on does a bit. Maybe not enough to matter, but not worth it to me.
Where do you get the 5th gen service manual from so you know what order to do this in? I’d like one for all my maintenance regardless..I have a 2022 limited 4 runner
A user on the forums at Toyota-4runner . org Put up a service manual for the 5th gen. It is in the sticky notes
@@T4Rgarage ok thank you and thx for your videos I’ve watched them all..can you do a power steering fluid change if you ever think about it?
@@jeremysmothers5143 Thanks so much! I hope to do one in the future. Cheers!
So, when doing front wheels the car is completely off? No ignition, no accessories? And then turn ignition only for the rear wheels?
Great video, thanks.
That is correct. Thank you!
But item (a) in the manual that you showed in the video states to turn the ignition on first…
Am I missing something?
Just an FYI, with the tube in the bottle submerged there is no reason to lossen and tighten while pumping as air cannot be sucked back in. Just pump brake and keep MC topped off.
How many bottles of brake fluid did you use?
he used 5 12oz bottles according to the amazon links in the description!
for the rear.. are you holding the brake down to keep transferring fluid? or are you just on/off
Pressing and holding, you don’t need a lot of pressure to activate the pump
@@T4Rgarage When does it turn off? Once you lift your foot?
That is correct @@deedle6073
@@T4Rgarage How quickly does it pump fluid? Like will it drain a full reservoir in a few seconds?
@@wolfeadventures It’s not that fast. Just hold it for a few seconds and then go back and look to get an ideal how much comes out.
Maybe a dumb question. Does this affect the ABS module at all? Would I need a special tool for that?
No it does not, no special tools required
@@T4Rgarage At the 4:25 mark you mentioned a service manual. Where did you get it? I have been looking all over for one with no luck. Nice video. Thank you
@@michaelmcmullin1341 shoot me a message on instagram and I’ll try and get you a copy. Insta: @T4R.garage
I need to install my extended rear brake lines but can’t get my ol lady to help with the bleeding process 😞
Time to change your ol lady! That’s the next video
@@ryanm4013 😂
Install speed bleeders and you can do it yourself.
I had my mechanic do this during one of my services.
He was saying some crap about needing a computer to change the fluid??! I’m like this is a dinosaur. You can’t need a computer. He insisted.
I’m feeling like he’s pulling a fast one.
Does anyone know anything about that?
Turkey baster works great too- comes in handy if you ever overfill your brake cylinder or power steering pump. Just be sure not to use your wifes baster from the kitchen. Get your own or she'll be pissed.
First off, I'm a really old fart and have been turning wrenches for over 60 years.
I've tried various methods of bleeding and flushing brake fluids over the years. The easiest and best method I found is by using a hand held vacuum pump. No pumping pedals and true one person method. A bonus is that the vacuum pump can help you troubleshoot your other vacuum systems on your engine.
Makes sense! Would it damage any parts when pulling a vacuum through al the pumps/seals etc that are designed to be under pressure rather than a negative pressure?
@@Wavelover33 I doubt it as you connect the vacuum pump at the bleeder screw so instead of someone pumping the brake pedal, the vacuum pump just pulls the brake fluid to the bleeder screw from the reservoir. Just make sure the brake fluid in the reservoir doesn't run dry during the process.
Just got power steering left, lol
😂 you read my mind