8.5W Osram LED teardown & analysis
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- čas přidán 29. 11. 2021
- What's inside an 8.5W LED lamp made by Osram and how does it work. Including the schematic, oscilloscope measurements and possible modifications.
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Most of these led light bulbs hide capacitor inside, where they are slowly cooked, this one keeps it outside, which also slowly cooks it, but a bit slower.
Once those caps dry out it's game over for the semi-conductors.LED lamps are not designed to last much longer than filament bulbs were imo
I wonder if that is why so many of the LED lights fail prematurely. Be nice to know if one of them ever actually lasts the 10,000 hours like they claim. I usually try to get dimmable LED bulbs because they seem to last longer.
@@LarryKapp1 Yeah, when you dim them, they use less current, run colder, run longer. Simple as that. Brightness vs current is not linear, you won't get 25% more light output with 25% current increase. Led's are not a linear devices.
)(. .ma.n . . k km k
@@makusmati the socketed ones running directly off mains fail like this all the time. So did CFL (well, add in the limited cycle life)
I am thinking perhaps 12v strings would last longer?
Another expert deconstruction Daniel, I still think you should be a teacher or college lecturer, such is your
knowledge of electronics. I bet your classroom experiments would be amazing.
How about a university lecturer? The ones I had might had the knowledge, but not his skill at explaining electronics. I think it's more important to understand how it works than to be able to apply some formulas without understanding why ... this is what I see more and more often these days in young graduates.
Maybe he is, who knows? 🤷
I think he is one of the very best electronic teachers on youtube. I really understand how the circuits work after he explains and demonstrates everything.
You are one of the best electronic teachers on youtube. After you videos I really understand the circuits and how they work.
I like the idea of linear regulated LED lamps. As an ham radio operator I always fight against RF noise, and these lamps make none.
It's a good design, but built horribly, in typical Osram LED fashion.
@@westelaudio943 Would be even better if they finally understood that flicker is an issue.
And the fact that in case of these lamps all it would take is a higher capacitance smoothing capacitor makes it even worse, considering that the average consumer expects quality from a brand like Osram. Which this certainly isn't, not even for the price tag.
@@ggesdsdsdsd dimmable leds in a standard fixture (e.g E27) and a triac based dimmer make for a pretty terrible idea.
@@stanimir4197 variac dimmable tho
The fusable resister (22 Ohms) is mounted "off board" for saftey, so if it over heats, blows or burns there is less chance of it arcing/ tracking to the PCB.
doesn't have any main business on the led itself? like limiting the current so the led won't burn?
In the ones we get here in the U.S., depending upon the mfr, the number of chips on the substrate is not the same in all of the leds. Usually, the last one in the string, closest to the regulator, will have fewer chips that the others. You can see a different pattern of light output when you lower the voltage to the point where they just illuminate dimly. The voltage drop across the led will also be different than the others. I don’t know whether this true of the 240 nominal volt units.
I was experiencing a high failure rate in some Chinese-made GE branded bulbs. They were used in a bathroom fixture, mounted base-up, which concentrates the heat, and reduces the heat transfer from the lamps due to restricted air flow. They were experiencing bond-wire failures, because if you pressed down on the top of the leds, you would find one that would cause the light to operate properly when pressed. The chips in these low-priced lamps are driven very hard. The lamps lasted less than a year to failure. I have used lamps from a different mfr in the fixtures, and they are performing more successfully, so far. The bases of the lamps seem to ‘feel’ to be at about the same operating temperature, but so far, the bulbs are handling it. The “GE” lamps, when used in fixtures with better ventilation and base up seem to be OK. There hasn’t been an issue with them in base-down fixtures.
Superb explanation of the circuitry involved, I'm tempted to start ripping all my LED bulbs apart for comparison
Your teardowns are very concise !
DiodeGoneWild another Great Analysis...
Every educative. Nice demonstration as always. Thank you. Be safe.
never saw one like with that circuitry before! thanks for the cool video & explanation.. : )
Super videa a tvůj přízvuk je nejlepší 😁
Love your channel ❤️ Keep up the good work 🙏
She too wants to learn. 8:19 🥰 Tank you for these detailed explanations of the circuits. very interesting! 👏🙂
Cool analysis and viewing of circuit functionality. Thanx.
Extremely helpful video, thank you
your voice is like - "bal habibi bal habibi wallah wallah" loved it...
Almost every oscilloscope has a line trigger mode exactly made for situations like this :-)
I do like your videos (and your cat)!
Was going to comment exactly this. 😁 Ac coupling the trigger can also work but only if there is ripple on the source channel. Ac line sourcing the trigger still is the best option here since the waveform of interest is the same as mains frequency.
Love the video, and cool to see an oscilloscope used on one of these. I wonder how BigClive's modiffications look on an Oscilloscope.
interesting indeed
Thanks! Learning a lot here...
Helpful information
Great and interesting video
I live in Argentina, those Osram are good bulbs for what exists in these days, i grab some of those few years back (i think 2016 2017) one fail one year ago, i changed the cap and then a few days a diode gone open. The others ones are still good. Is also the exact same circuit being made 5 years ago and It cost me to desolder the cap, it must be high melting tin
Thanks for the video - I guess we are going to be more sensitive to power factor in the future, particularly for higher power devices. I like the 25 to 100 watt modules that switch in different LED banks at different stages of the mains cycle so that current tracks voltage and PF is good. Worth a review ?
He has a video on that topic, see the "Testing 50W & 10W 220Vac mains LEDs"
To trigger the oscilloscope on the ripple of channel 1 even while changing the input voltage you have to set the trigger coupling to AC and the trigger level near 0 Volts
In my house we are around 240V all the time. Sometimes even up to the 10% allowed variance from nominal, in other words 253V.
Our nominal isn't 220, but 230. (Norway)
In Australia the official voltage is 230V but we rarely get that low. Normal voltage is 240V or 245V in most homes. We inherited the 240V from the UK, and despite unification, etc we actually didn't change the voltage (just the labels).
@@johncoops6897 I imagine solar pushes it above the nominal during the day easily there
Here in Slovakia the nominal voltage is 230 since 2003 I think. Before that we had 220V nominal. Nowadays most of our houses and buildings have 230V but there are still some backwater villages where they didn't change the transformers yet so the real voltage is still 220.
I bought these at Turkey for couple of rooms. They don't have a long lifespan. Got replaced after less than a year of nightly use
mom got some set of Osram lamps - 2 of them died before even 1 year of internal production date
It was differently built internally but in my eye Osram has lost it's "premium" brand image in my eye
I had Osram branded filament LEDs. Had bad hue (too yellow), made a horrible ~5kc whining noise (from transformer inside) and failed after half a year. Pure crap in my opinion.
Osram makes different product ranges. The cheapest are sold in Supermarkets, and are awful. They needed to compete with the cheapest no-name brands and the quality is similar.
@@johncoops6897 But if their better brands are still unobtainable even in hobby stores and stuff then they really should get stuffed nonetheless.
Yep, the cooling solution is ... let's say - "Nonexistent", made way better experience with Philips
In my country those lamps are rated for 100-240V because half of the country works with 110, 115 or 127Volts (60Hz) and the other half of the country works with 220V (60Hz).
If you review lamps, could you please review the philips 23W 3452 lumen LED?
Love your new isolation transformer by the way, I remember your combination of two super small transformers, the same you find in old Hi-Fi amplifiers and that only trigger a relay.
My 10.5W 4000k OSRAM has a bit different construction. Plastic bulb is more solid, LEDs (10 in total) are on top of the PCB and all other components are below. In 1.5 years 2 LEDs broken, just removed and shorted them and it still works.
W jakich jeszcze urzadzeniach stosuje sie rezystor bezpieczenstwa rozladowujacy kondensator po odcieciu zasilania? To powszechne?
Those LEDs are fine for the UK then! In the UK, we have a mains voltage of 240V AC, so that would result in less flicker (albeit slightly higher power draw as well).
i miss your sstc videos and explanations :(
Sir I live in Bangladesh I want to make an unregulated adapter 24 volt 6 amp which component is best and please help me to find the wire diagram
what about the dimmable one, whats the difference inside?
thanks
Nice videao :-) next time filament LED
Its a Frankstensterin watt meter , using a regular AC volt meter as a base ( I bought the same voltcraft meter for some one to measure most of the DC in a car) ...
Isolation transformer? Great idea! Why bother with differential probes and such.Would it also be possible to use it to power the scope? Or would it be dangerous?
I think oscilloscope should have ground potential for safety, and PE connection for grounding digital noise of itself. But I'm not sure if it's really needed.
What voltage on led?can be about 20v?
very gud
does the isolation transformer improve the power factor?
That cat always looks like someones pooped in his favorite sleeping spot.
Thanks for the video! My experienxe with the cheap Osram LED bulbs is not so great, only one from the box of 3 is still working after 1 and a half years... I think the radiator is probably too small and at some point one of the LEDs is burnt.
There are various different ranges within the Osram and Philips LED bulbs. The LEDvance used to be Osram's cheapest, to compete with Philips Essentials (their shitty range). You have to get a full catalogue and research the various model ranges, then buy from Electrical Wholesaler or Lighting Specialist, rather than from supermarket (where they only sell the lowest spec ones).
"I think the radiator is probably too small and at some point one of the LEDs is burnt." - Radiator? What radiator? I haven't seen any....
@@CoolKoon- they are built down to a price. Thats all, dont worry about fancy heatsinking.
@@johncoops6897 I know, but I've asked because the OP was talking about some radiators, which are nowhere to be found.
@@CoolKoon - I'm sure they mean the heatsinking is too small. The LEDs are mounted on a aluminium PCB, which is pressed into a tulip-shaped aluminium body.
Theoretically if the thermal interfaces where well designed this would help conduct heat away from the LED chips and "radiate" it into the room. But the real design doesn't really work very well at all, relying on "heat soak" to eventually lose the heat of operation. The chips would literally be cooking to death inside these horrid lamps.
Top cool!.
Gooood
Linear regulators are inefficient. What about an inductor to reduce the ripple on the rectified DC?
Please share more details or make a video about the diy wattmeter.
@@arthurmorgan8966 cheap meters don't measure ac and I really wouldn't like to blow my expensive one for no good reason, he must have a circuit which converts AC current to DC mV.
@@arthurmorgan8966 I had a hard time making a simple circuit that's why I am asking "DiodeGoneWild"
I did buy the same packageee
Thanks again. So the LEDs current seems to be around 23mA. (500mV on 22 ohms) so the power is 276*.023 6.35W. Seems not so efficient compared to the +8W consumption ? Did I miss something ? However I like the linear design that is probably very reliable.
>probably very reliable
I'd consider otherwise due to the amount of energy it has to dissipate, w/ proper cooling it'd be nice but like that it's just inefficient and the extra heat will burn the LEDs as well. No idea how it'd behave on transients spikes either.
It was about 600mV on the resistor.
You are missing the power factor.
None of these are reliable. Reliably dies after 1-2 years. Terrible thermal design, most of them run too hot, and possibly beyond the power and/or thermal rating of the LEDs.
Could last for decades at 75% output and with more sophisticated thermal design, but that's not the goal. And the world is talking about environmental protection... Yeah. By collecting the trash selectively we surely will catch up on recycling the dead electronics and broken plastic everything...
usually linear driver have 0.6v reference in this case 0.6/22=ILedPeak PowerLed(excludingPsu)= ILed*TotalVLedDrop. in this case 7.53watt
PsuEfficiency: 8.2/7.53 91%
with 8.2 caps this bulb is completely flickr free (pure dc cc on iled) on 230v nominal with no emi but with i guess just 85 efficiency, switching has ripple too even good inductor and smooting but very high frequency not 100hz
Your country has 50hz AC? Maybe the circuit design was for 60 hz?
I like the idea of changing the current sense resistor for long life and efficiency. An advantage of LED is constant color temperature across operating range, no? Big Clive has demonstrated "diy Dubai lamps", would like to see some tinkering and power/efficiency results for this lamp.
Most countries use 50 hz. I think all of europe (and most of asia and africa) use 50hz. 60 hz is most common in north and central America
There are extremely few countries that have 60Hz and ~230V. This goods are sold in the EU where everything is 230V/50Hz. At 43sec it was 50/60Hz which makes little sense along with 220-240V range czcams.com/video/y5hQGeNtqzA/video.html
No it was designed for 50 Hz. Why would they sell 60 Hz LEDs in Czech Republic? All of Europe uses 50 Hz and Osram is a German company I bet they know how to design something for 50 Hz. The only country I can think of that uses 220V and 60Hz is South Korea. I'm sure there are few more but I don't remember them.
Originally *LEDvance* was the "cheap Chinese" range of Osram products. They were the lowest cost products for sale in Supermarkets, rather than the professional products. Basically, they were trading off the Osram name but designed and priced to compete with the cheapest Chinese no-name stuff. Overall, not particularly good quality - I don't think that's changed recently..
Yeah, then Osram got rid of them - just sold them to the chinese..
I love the accent! Should you not be dividing by the the square root of 2 and not multiplying?
It has almost identical construction to V-TAC 11W/1055lm/2700K LED light bulbs: same mechanical construction, same input connector, MB10F bridge, 2x510K resistors, 6.8uF/400V/105C/ cap (same soldering style, same "color"), BP5131D , 27R||33R current shunt, 16 LEDs.
Same manufacturer ?
By the way, in my experience with around 50 pcs. of the mentioned light bulbs installed, in over 1 year only one failed, reasonable home and office use. Will investigate why... THIS IS NOT AN ENDORSEMENT!
Of course, the low end is dominated by companies that make on contract base for different manufacturers, using the same designs, optimised down in price to the bare minimum that will function, and running the components at or beyond their rating, giving a lifetime that is just a little past the warranty time. You can make them last longer, just that the cost will be much higher, as you use double the amount of LED dies, and run them at lower current, so will need more innovative packaging to get the heat out, as you ned to keep them cool as well, or sacrifice output in the same size pack as the competitor, who sells based on output lumens only, not lifetime fiction.
Most modern LED bulbs look pretty much the same, at least the inexpensive ones without dimming option. They are cost optimized as far as possible.
@@SeanBZA I remember the old ones with aluminium heatsink base. This one in the video, and probably all of them which has plastic casing is of terrible thermal design. The aluminium PCB is fine, but the heat can only come off by radiation, very minimal conduction. The older ones at least used glass bulbs which (I think) can conduct heat a little bit better than these paper thin plastics.
At least they mounted the cap under the board though, with a little bit longer leads, not above and touching the substrate.
I have few of those LED bulbs. One burned out quite soon after purchase. (One of it's LED packages burned out and since it's all in series, the whole bulb stops working)
Yes, to cut cost they tun the LED dies at a very high current, and also run them very hot. If this makes the rated life it will be the outlier.
It looks like it's made in the same factory as of Philips LED bulbs. So much similarity in theirs designs.
I like you to hear your the last syllable of each sentence.
Hi @DiodeGoneWild make video of 12 G4 LED Lamp as well.
Take a look at 14w lamp, at least my one is far more interesting, 10,5w and 14w versions have a huge design flaw, causing them to fail, because the way the led board i mounted, it usually doesn't make a good thermal contact with the body. I can send you a picture if you want to see what I mean.
Anyone knows, why some LED lamps have that weird lumens value, like 806lm, or 1521lm (Phillips 11W, 100W equivalent)? Why not 800lm, or 805 or 807 or 810, or any other round value, but exactly 806?
Simply because the opposition has a slightly lower number printed on the box.
All those ratings on the carton are bullshit anyway, for reasons I wrote in another comment here and won't bother re-typing.
Wonder if the design was made in the UK where the (actual, not the nominal) mains voltage is slightly higher than in the rest of Europe.
No, made in PRC, they went for the extra ripple to get the extra LED dies in, so as to drop the losses as much as possible, as the testing for efficiency is performed in set conditions, using exactly 230VAC. Then hope that most of them will still operate at the low voltage point and still emit light, though that will probably be at half the light output.
It's not free of interference. Take the voltage across the electrolytic and do a Fourier transform. Lots of harmonics.
There's still interference, it's just not as nasty as you get from switching circuitry.
👍
Instead of the driver chip, they may put a transistor
Next do a video on fog lights for bike
Ive seen chinese ones exactly like that. Maybe they are made in the same factory.
And LED them selfs have often better efficiency on lower voltage
It doesn't work like that - LEDs are current driven, and the forward voltage is a byproduct.
So, at lower CURRENT the LEDs become more efficient. However the extent that efficiency (it's actually termed "Efficacy") is improved depends greatly on the binning of the chips themselves.
For example, some chips (like used for solar lights) are extremely efficient at tiny 0.5mA current, yet respond very badly to increase of power (over 2mA they don't get much brighter at all). Other chips designed for (say) Highbays or Streetlights can cope with huge power variations yet hardly vary in efficacy, so their light output is almost linear with current.
Anyway, at lower currents the forward voltage always reduces. However you cannot (reliably) control LED's power or brightness by varying the voltage. You must control the Current, and then the voltage, brightness and efficacy will follow along accordingly.
@@johncoops6897 Volleswerk isn't wrong though, while the post doesn't use precise language, they said better efficiency at lower voltage, which would be synonymous with lower current.
Your explanation was wonderful, though, and filled in all the terms missing or commonly misused. However, I would take pause in considering forward voltage to be a byproduct of current. The IV curve is without a doubt nonlinear, but all current control is simply fine voltage control. Further, the forward voltage is determined primarily by p-n band gap, and the IV curve is a byproduct of its construction.
@@Infinion - You van think what you like. Forward voltage is modified by drive current. You must control the current because LEDs have a positive resistance and the device runs away and explodes if current is not limited.
You can prove that for yourself by connecting an LED to a 12V car battery without any current limiting, then see what happens to the forward voltage. Doesn't matter that the LED has a forward voltage of 3.1V or whatever you dream it might be.
The forward voltage follows the current, it's the by-product or result of whatever current you drive it with.
I am probably not explaining it in a way that you understand.
@@johncoops6897
With regard to OP, I must maintain that they are correct. Drive an LED just above its forward voltage, or "low voltage" and at "low current", and you get a substantial increase in efficacy. This is clear in Texas Instruments' white paper "slyt617". However, it seems as though you assumed OP was talking about voltage control vs current control, as well as applying a "lower" but otherwise arbitrary external voltage rather than an effectively low forward biased voltage on the IV curve of an LED.
But regarding our out of context discussion:
"Forward voltage is modified by drive current. "
And how would a driver receive feedback and regulate the current that drives the LED? Through precise voltage control. The point is that external voltage induces current flow, and current would be the byproduct of the applied voltage.
I'm sure you're familiar with an IV curve, are you not? It represents the non-linear relationship between current and forward voltage of an LED. This is how all p-n junction devices are described and characterized.
You can set a precise voltage or a current to reach a point anywhere on the IV curve assuming a constant junction temperature is maintained.
"The forward voltage follows the current, it's the by-product or result of whatever current you drive it with."
It would not be reasonable to say the voltage is derived from current. Rather, current is simply a convenient means to characterize and control devices.
What would you say about a circuit that drives an LED with an external voltage? An external current? Both circuits are the same, and only the control schemes differ.
"[connect] an LED to a 12V car battery without any current limiting, then see what happens to the forward voltage. "
Why would you call the car battery a "12V" battery if voltage is merely a byproduct of the current? Shouldn't it be a 40Ah battery? Perhaps then there could be a 'voltage limiting' element to regulate the current.
Of course, 12V is not a suitable voltage for 3V LEDs, but it is perfect for 50W COBs rated for 12V where the operating point falls appropriately close to the knee of the IV curve. If you're going to push devices beyond their operating limits for any length of time, then of course the device will fail. This doesn't demonstrate your point.
As a side note, LEDs can handle "high" voltage pulses. This falls in the realm of strobe and flash applications.
" LEDs have a positive resistance and the device runs away and explodes if current is not limited."
It would be more appropriate to say LEDs have a non-linear resistance, which is the point of using IV curves to characterize them. Setting a voltage along the IV current will set an appropriate current. If current was not limited, and temperature not controlled, it doesn't prove which variable was a byproduct of the other, just that the circuit design failed to drive the LED within a safe operating region.
My point is "current control" is simply a convenient convention used to describe control schemes, but at the heart of all current control is voltage control. It would be best not to be cavalier around this point, lest misconceptions run away and explode.
Regardless, I appreciate your point of view and the opportunity to discuss it.
@@Infinion - OK, well since you already know everything from your TI Application sheet and textbook, I will just leave you to it.
Honestly, I have no interest in arguing semantics with a pedant who knows a few basics, yet doesn't truly grasp a subject that I have extensive knowledge about.
what soldering iron does he use?
It's a "standard" design from the communist Czechoslovakia times i.e. this was the only kind you could get back then. In fact it's not a soldering iron, but a soldering gun. In fact if you look carefully at the side of it you can see the (numeric) ID of the Czechoslovak standard (ČSN) which covers the whole design of it (and all the soldering guns in the country were made according to this single standard).
That's a good ol' Czechoslovak transformer soldering gun.
Those must be the light bars everyone is talking about. Anyway it's cute how the capacitor is in the standard anime girl sitting pose.
In Australia, we can get 10W (over 1000lm) LED bulbs for about AUD2!
Normally, we pay way too much for electronics!
The issue w/ lumen and watts is that most LEDs are overdriven beyond help.
Yes over-driven, however it doesn't really matter because the limiting factor for GLS lamp life is generally the driver and PCB (killed by heat). The manufacturers of cheap "supermarket grade" lamps definitely over-drive the LEDs because it doesn't matter if the chips fail early (since the driver will blow anyway).
And the Lumen values quoted on lamps is somewhat ummmm.... dubious. A lot of them quote the maximum Lumens that the chip can cope with (eg: 60mA for a 2835) yet the lamp is running at less than that. Others use the rated lumens of the bare chips at their nominal drive current, and not enclosed with the opaque bulb and at elevated temperatures of the enclosure.
Many suppliers quote the Lumens of a bare PCB hanging in the integrating sphere with an external "reference" driver, not even using the actual driver that they supply! Finally, they test them "base down" in free air at 20°C, which results in much more favourable operating conditions than they actually get used.
I've been involved in the industry for a very long time, and you should never believe the life or light output claims made on the boxes... the cheaper the product, the more dubious that information becomes.
@@johncoops6897 I neglected to mention that I am talking about "name brand" bulbs 🤔
@@electron-1979 - so whar? That's what I was writing about too.
@@johncoops6897 an interesting take - pretty much every single LED bulb (except one) has had an LED chip failure, e.g. I can replace the chip and it'll back operational.
Of course that's very anectodical experience of mine. The LED chips tend to flicker and usually would have a dark dot as well. I have almost abolished all e27/e14 type of LED lights, though.
Ahoj 👍
Zdravim 🙋♂️
It is weird osram sold their Ledvance brand but still seem to want to sell this stuff :D
Top Class! Cheers.
Those Osram LED bulbs are very popular here In India...
please make a video about your DIY wattmeter.
I bought one 9W LED bulb for 1.30€ and decided to look inside because the plastic diffuser was not on properly.
The bulb is sold locally and is made by V-TAC, it claims to be flicker free and claims to have Samsung LED chips inside.
Under the diffuser the board is similar but also different to what you tore down in this video.
The LED's have numbers next to them and there are 12 in total. But that's where the similarities end.
On the LED board there are three of the same kind of connectors as the one in your bulb. All three have two wires going to each from the underside.
On the LED board there are also two large inductors (1.5µH and 3µH), three resistors, one ceramic capacitor and one controller IC.
The controller IC is BP2863 but there seems to be very little in terms on information about it, other than that it's a switching IC.
I didn't dare take it apart any further but i assume the connectors might be used to connect electrolytic capacitors without having to solder them.
Most of them use a Switching (Buck) controller. You can identify those by the inductor on the output, fairly large mains capacitor and small output capacitor. They are extremely efficient, over 90% in many cases, and handle very wide voltage ranges. Many have Power Factor correction built in, and can achieve PF>90 within a moderate voltage range..
That style of driver is the "more proper" way to make a mains lamp driver, however the cost has forced manufacturers of budget lamps to change to the linear regulators shown here.
The main reason for the cost reduction is that the linear regulators don't need the common mode choke (inductors) on input and output to meet EMC/RFI standards, since they don't introduce high frequency switching noise.
@@arthurmorgan8966 - a PAM2863 is not the same chip as the BP2863.
PAM is for low voltage (max 40VDC input, 2A LED current)
BP is for mains voltage (85-265VAC input, 220ma LED Current)
They have completely different pinouts, specs, ratings and applications too. Not even close, apart from being a blank IC with legs sticking out, and sharing 4 digits of a part number.
@@johncoops6897 "Forced to use linear regulators to save cost, including on certification" I imagine it's also a problem because the marketing material for these bulbs often advertises unrealistic lifetimes that are indistinguishable to the customer from the "more proper" off-line designs. So there is no incentive for a budget brand to add component cost and complexity for no gains in sales...
Does Osram in czech means same thing as in polish? 😁
it doesn't mean anything in czech...
@@DiodeGoneWild Po slovensky by to bolo "oseriem" alebo nieco podobne, neviem jak v cestine. V polstine mame sloveso "osrać" = osrať.
Holly cow!, Is this accent real or fake? I'm not an English native speaker but I could never have a worse accent than this even if I tried!
Кондензатора след греца е с малка стойност.
Nájs dyvájs s kauflandu 🙂
Make a review of Philips Dubai - Most efficient and MOST long lasting LED bulb that is not allowed to be sold in Europe.
Interesting, in my country these light bulbs come as 100V-240V, so this design would not work well! Now I need to disassemble one! 😅
if it says 100-240V, it's probably a flyback, maybe a buck regulator with a low output voltage.
@@DiodeGoneWild Yes, normally that, with around 36V drop on the LED chips, and generally with a tiny 3 pin chip doing all the work.
@@SeanBZA in general, there is a switching power supply, I opened a couple of those and that was what I found ( I only opened brazilian lamps)
Импульсный драйвер с дросселем намного лучше , чем линейный драйвер. В более ранних моделях ламп Osram применялся именно импульсный драйвер и лампа стабильно работала от 180 Вольт
Please show us how to modify the 24V 10A smps into a bench power supply!. Thank you for all of your videos!
@@arthurmorgan8966 I agree 100% with you. I just want to see how it's done. Also with those cheap(LM**** or XL****) buck / boost convertors they can't really provide their rated output current. I need something adjustable with 10A from 3.3V to 12V. a.k.a ATX SMPS with TL494
You can get any DC/DC converted and call it a day - however having a constant current mode is a challenge on its own due to high output capacitance.RD6018/6060 or so should be a decent one. Unfortunately their price has doubled already.
I bought 17W V-TAC brand LED bulbs for 1.70€ each and they claim to be flicker free.
They also claim to use Samsung LED chips.
One thing i noticed is that they weigh almost nothing, the box they come in weighs almost as much as the bulb.
Would love to tear one apart but i can't bring myself to break a new bulb :)
tear one apart, at 1.7 your not going to lose a lot. I open them up and increase the sense resistor value to drop the wattage down to 1-2 watts. then they get used as night lights around the house controlled by home assiatant. saves turning a light on just to go up stairs and with luck they should last a long time at the reduced wattage.
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist There are also 9W bulbs for 1.30€, i bought a 3000K temperature one to see if i like it and it's pretty good. Thsese bulbs have become very affordable. So much so i might buy a bunch more just to keep around. Compared to incandescent bulbs these LED bulbs should save enough energy to pay for themselves in a couple months.
Lumaaaan
Idiooooot
In the USA it seems all the basic cheap bulbs have moved to this linear regulator design.
How long do they really last? They all seem to run the LEDs hot.
Half to one year, at least my Osrams. Some 1.5, maybe. Pure crap
Yes, I'd say that these cheap lamps have a real world life of maximum 5000 hours, usually MUCH less. They last longer if base down than base up. If there is an enclosure (eg: ceiling light), then life is very short.
They are optimized for lowest possible cost. The manufacturer doesn't care what lies that they tell you on the package, since nobody will return them under warranty.
It's not the brand but the product range that matters. Osram "LEDvance" and Philips "Essentials" are the cheapest ranges in those respective brands, and are the most dodgy. Those are targeted to supermarkets etc where low cost is #1 criteria for consumer.
The higher-priced "professional" grade lamps are considerably better. However they are only better value if you are paying for labour to replace them. For example, you would be crazy to use these LEDvance or Essentials lamps in a hotel... the labour cost to replace them is significantly higher than the cost of the bulb itself.
Try to put a eletrolytic capacitor in paralel with all the leds,so you don't get a coocker,while getting a flickerless lamp
I concur. I cannot seem to find any other video that attempts that kind of modification.
I wonder how much different the device would react on 60 Hz
Not much differently. A slightly lower ripple. To answer more scientifically, the cycle time of 100 Hz is 10ms, for 120 Hz it is 8.33 ms. You cut down that 1.67ms from the end of the notch measured, and that's what you'll get. If the whole ripple at 50 Hz is actually shorter than 1.67ms, then it would become flicker-free at 60 Hz.
Samsung S5 Best old phone, are you running out of 16gb space? Try using app that can be put on SD card.
His English is from wish I know that package 📦
I think the capacitor size has to fit to the power and needed current of the LED. The lowest voltage in the cap should be the LED voltage of 280V (constant current). The regulator dissipates the voltage higher than 280V. Than is should be flicker free. If the voltage rises higher in the cap because of higher capacity at constant current the chip has to dissipate more heat if it becomes lower it will flicker.
What dialect is this? I don't understand a thing!
why he sings while speaking?
Head lamp
LED light DC 100 voltage amps
Panasonic LED BEST B22
10A seriously?