A standard steel leadscrew with PTFE grease is perfectly fine. No squeaking and super smooth. Just have to wipe it down and re apply grease every couple months.
I have used regular lead screws and coated them with that dry spray on teflon and a touch of oil (used for sewing machines) and that is cheap and easy.
I use antibacklash POM tnuts on normal steel leadscrew. Really smooth movement and zero problems. I read about these ptfe coated leadscrews and the problems associated with them, but didnt think they were too serious, against the advantage of not having to lubricate them. Thank you for the video, I´ll stick with normal leadscrews or belted Z for now
It also looks like your Teflon screws have a tighter twist like the single start lead screws I tried on my printer for a while. Mine were standard steel with brass nuts. I found that the tighter twist lead to more resistance to motion because the threads line up almost horizontally when the screw is installed on the printer. Whereas with the standard 4 start lead screw the treads are almost at. 45 degree angle making it easier for the motor to move the gantry up and down. While in theory, it shouldn't be much of a problem if your printer is perfectly aligned, I found that fee printers are and the additional resistance to up and down motion exacerbated existing issues making banding and binding worse in all but the best case scenario. After months of trial and error I switched back to the standard 4 start screw. I wonder if the Teflon screws would be more effective if the screws threads matched the threads of the original screw.
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A standard steel leadscrew with PTFE grease is perfectly fine. No squeaking and super smooth. Just have to wipe it down and re apply grease every couple months.
I have used regular lead screws and coated them with that dry spray on teflon and a touch of oil (used for sewing machines) and that is cheap and easy.
I use antibacklash POM tnuts on normal steel leadscrew. Really smooth movement and zero problems. I read about these ptfe coated leadscrews and the problems associated with them, but didnt think they were too serious, against the advantage of not having to lubricate them. Thank you for the video, I´ll stick with normal leadscrews or belted Z for now
It also looks like your Teflon screws have a tighter twist like the single start lead screws I tried on my printer for a while. Mine were standard steel with brass nuts. I found that the tighter twist lead to more resistance to motion because the threads line up almost horizontally when the screw is installed on the printer. Whereas with the standard 4 start lead screw the treads are almost at. 45 degree angle making it easier for the motor to move the gantry up and down. While in theory, it shouldn't be much of a problem if your printer is perfectly aligned, I found that fee printers are and the additional resistance to up and down motion exacerbated existing issues making banding and binding worse in all but the best case scenario. After months of trial and error I switched back to the standard 4 start screw. I wonder if the Teflon screws would be more effective if the screws threads matched the threads of the original screw.
Cool, They were not on my Christmas wish list, but if they were, I would definitely be scratching them off.
Try a regular lead screw with a light coating of molybdenum disulfide, works wonders!
What about the POM nut on the non coated lead screw?
How about using a ball-screw?
They cost about 10 times more than the rest of the printer
@@AndrewAHayes it depends on the grade of ball screw. The cheap ones will have horrible wobble. The good ones are definitely very expensive
I think u wanted to say 2 - 4 micron not mill
25.4 Microns equals 1 Mil,
Both units can be used for measuring thickness, but I chose to use the unit that the manufacturer used.
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Thanks for a great review…not going to spend money
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