Reasons why buying an older lathe can put your work at another level with the attention to detail and stiffness that today's minimalist lathes from hell lack severely. Good Job!
My favorite quote from your narration: ‘but it is always satisfying when you can finally get a piece of metal to shine again”. Kind of says it all in regard to why we do these projects. This video is really top notch in the quality of your work, photography, and editing. Very inspiring: I tore down the tailstock of my Clausing-Colchester 15x50 (Triumph 2000) this past week after watching your first installment. Next will be the apron, saddle, cross slide and compound. Thank you for your efforts!
I learnt on a Colchester student , the gear change set up is among the best for the easy life , you will grow to love the D-1-4 camlok , my ideal lathe is to be a tool room dean smith & grace , waiting for the right one. Really enjoy your well set up videos.great work. “Zebra gutt, pröst! “
Very nicely done, and such a well built and obviously well cared-for machine! It is kind of sad that you didn’t repaint it while you had it apart, but that would have been a much longer project. Perhaps that can be a future video. This lathe should serve you well for many years to come!
This is not a restoration, is just a cleanup! Restoration means measuring of flatness, parallelism and perpendicularity on every moving part in relation to head of the machine. Restoration means also, grinding and scraping on the surfaces that have wear or excessive wear over the years of use in order to achieve flatness, parallelism and perpendicularity. If you find a broken part - since it’s a restoration project - you have three options, a. trying to fix it (if this is possible), b. make a new one, c. searching to buy the original part from shops that selling surplus parts etc. Restoration also means, changing of every bearings the machine have' inspection of the apron leadscrew, the leadscrew of the cross and top slide - in case of excessive wear you'll need the change or make new leadscrew-s. The final step of a restoration is the paint job - usually the original color of the machine. Adding a DRO, a new chuck, or another QCTP are consider add-ons and we are doing this simply because we want to improve the accuracy and the quality of the parts we going to make with the restored machine. This just my humble opinion on how a lathe should be restored.
Are you going to see how true the ways are compared with each other? I saw how Keith Rucker have done it (I think you know him on CZcams). He is really good with scraping lathe ways.
Am I missing the parts where the ways bed headstock and everything else were measured for flat, parallel and perpendicular and all the grinding, scraping and adjusting was done to restore the lathe? Seems like there is a big block of video missing.
Nice ! Would be a Good Candidate for a Bed Regrind and scraping of the Saddle , Tail and Headstock. Crosslide scraping . and Regrind the Top Surface of the saddle. The Spindle looks to be in good shape !
Rather what I was thinking. Then it could be called a restoration. This work shown is only a clean up. He did not show any evidence of measuring for wear in any of the ways, of which I am sure there will be.
I have the same lathe and it makes a lot of noise. I watched the video from beginning to end. In the video, it explains between the 28th and 30th minutes, but I did not understand exactly which part he changed, it works very loudly.
WOW I have been told for years don't run the motor backwards on my master 2500 because the oil pump will stop working - I have a VFD on mine and am off to check if it still pumps in reverse on my 1986 version.
Missing thread dial can at least be gotten around by just not disengaging the half nuts in the meantime, similar to how you'd cut metric threads on an imperial lathe (or vice versa), this machine cleaned up real nice though, looks great
@@PhilEngineering In those cases if your chuck isn't a threaded on affair then the other way around that is to flip the tool, reset your centre height and thread away from the chuck, for the longest time that was my standard threading arrangement haha, that was unfortunately a necessity for me because it was an imperial lathe and most of our customers wanted metric threads, gotta make do with what you've got as they say
Here's a tip: Instead of "scotchbrighting something for 1/2 hour", put the scotchbrite pad down, then use a random orbital sander on top - your arms will thank me later!
Hey Phil. Once again, I am totally flabbergasted (Sprachlos) about the great quality of your aged machines... Like my father and/or grandfather always said: 'You have to afford to buy cheap', meaning, if you buy cheap/niederqualität, and have to repair or upgrade such a machine, to brng it up to par, what is cheaper in the long-run?? Quick question: Do you have any vids about moving the machines, how you got them (delivered) home, and/or manouvered into your shop/basement?? None-the-less, keep up the amazing work, I am here to follow you/your journey, bruder!!! Grüsse/Regards aus WI/Hessen, ja?
Thank you! Both machines were transported on a trailer but I paid a professional to lift them off the trailer. Then a lot of man power and a pallet jack 👌
Just as a shoutout to anyone installing a DRO. Or will I just sound like a grumpy old man picking on every small detail… 🙄🙈😅 If it’s anything like the ones I have (it sure looks so), the installation manual says to keep the transportation lock/adjustment shim (the black plastic piece in the background at 37:00) in place for the correct spacing between the head and scale, when tightening it. I’m not saying you did anything wrong here. It might just be out of the video. Just a small detail for anyone looking for inspiration in this awesome project and video. 👌 Impressive to say the least. Edit: And just because of me commenting about the spacer/liner you mentioning it less then two minutes later. 🤦♂️ I’m sorry for jumping the gun here. Ooh, and your brackets look 1000x better than mine. Really nice.
Hast du den Motor umgepolt wegen der Lautstärke und dem zahnrad zur Änderung der drehrichtung? Meine Colchester triumph 2000 ist auch sehr laut. Könntest du das nochmal erklären? Stehe auf dem Schlauch. MfG Wilhelm
Ist umgepolt um das ausgeschlagene Zahnrad zu überbrücken. Das Reverse Zahnrad dreht dadurch dann vorwärts und das andere wird nicht mehr belastet aber ist nur eine vorübergehende Lösung.
Thank you for posting a good video, but it's little a shame. As you can see on other channels that post similar videos, most channels don't have BGM except for the opening and ending. Many people want to hear the sound of work and the sound of the machine. But if you don't have BGM, you have to adjust the volume to balance the video. I'll always cheer for you, and I'll look forward to your good videos
Reasons why buying an older lathe can put your work at another level with the attention to detail and stiffness that today's minimalist lathes from hell lack severely. Good Job!
Your DRO bracket work is insane. Incredible work 👏
My favorite quote from your narration: ‘but it is always satisfying when you can finally get a piece of metal to shine again”. Kind of says it all in regard to why we do these projects. This video is really top notch in the quality of your work, photography, and editing. Very inspiring: I tore down the tailstock of my Clausing-Colchester 15x50 (Triumph 2000) this past week after watching your first installment. Next will be the apron, saddle, cross slide and compound. Thank you for your efforts!
People like you are rare to find, you explained everything clearly, the effort you put in has no monetary value, thank you, thank you.
I learnt on a Colchester student , the gear change set up is among the best for the easy life , you will grow to love the D-1-4 camlok , my ideal lathe is to be a tool room dean smith & grace , waiting for the right one.
Really enjoy your well set up videos.great work.
“Zebra gutt, pröst! “
man, you made out like a bandit on this purchase. That's an awesome lathe, I'd put it up against a Monarch. HUGE thumbs up, I really enjoyed this
Great work ...pro
Omg am I that old. Those are modern looking machines to me.
Respekt !!
Hast Du GUT gemacht !!
perfect breakfast entertainment. thanks!
I enjoyed watching your restoration videos....I look forward to seeing your next installment 👍🏼
nice lathe. not cheap import machine. glad you are restoring it.
Very nicely done, and such a well built and obviously well cared-for machine! It is kind of sad that you didn’t repaint it while you had it apart, but that would have been a much longer project. Perhaps that can be a future video.
This lathe should serve you well for many years to come!
Great job! this machine is good to go for another 30 years. Keep up the good work man
What a well made machine, it went to a good new home.
Nice work!
I have the same lathe.
Yes, I agree, they are very well made.
Great timing, I just ordered a DRO. Your video will help a bunch.
Thanks man!!
Thank you.
What a differance going from paint drying to a good watch. I look forward to seeing what you can do.
Nicely done sir and thank you for sharing.
This is not a restoration, is just a cleanup!
Restoration means measuring of flatness, parallelism and perpendicularity on every moving part in relation to head of the machine. Restoration means also, grinding and scraping on the surfaces that have wear or excessive wear over the years of use in order to achieve flatness, parallelism and perpendicularity.
If you find a broken part - since it’s a restoration project - you have three options, a. trying to fix it (if this is possible), b. make a new one, c. searching to buy the original part from shops that selling surplus parts etc. Restoration also means, changing of every bearings the machine have' inspection of the apron leadscrew, the leadscrew of the cross and top slide - in case of excessive wear you'll need the change or make new leadscrew-s.
The final step of a restoration is the paint job - usually the original color of the machine.
Adding a DRO, a new chuck, or another QCTP are consider add-ons and we are doing this simply because we want to improve the accuracy and the quality of the parts we going to make with the restored machine.
This just my humble opinion on how a lathe should be restored.
Fantastic work - I'm very interested to see your solution to the 26tooth gear issue in the headstock. Danke!
Great work.
Are you going to see how true the ways are compared with each other?
I saw how Keith Rucker have done it (I think you know him on CZcams).
He is really good with scraping lathe ways.
Am I missing the parts where the ways bed headstock and everything else were measured for flat, parallel and perpendicular and all the grinding, scraping and adjusting was done to restore the lathe? Seems like there is a big block of video missing.
Nice ! Would be a Good Candidate for a Bed Regrind and scraping of the Saddle , Tail and Headstock. Crosslide scraping . and Regrind the Top Surface of the saddle. The Spindle looks to be in good shape !
Rather what I was thinking. Then it could be called a restoration. This work shown is only a clean up. He did not show any evidence of measuring for wear in any of the ways, of which I am sure there will be.
good work
I have the same lathe and it makes a lot of noise. I watched the video from beginning to end. In the video, it explains between the 28th and 30th minutes, but I did not understand exactly which part he changed, it works very loudly.
WOW I have been told for years don't run the motor backwards on my master 2500 because the oil pump will stop working - I have a VFD on mine and am off to check if it still pumps in reverse on my 1986 version.
I do enjoy watching you, however it will be even better when you find the time to be seen with something new more often.
Thanks
Missing thread dial can at least be gotten around by just not disengaging the half nuts in the meantime, similar to how you'd cut metric threads on an imperial lathe (or vice versa), this machine cleaned up real nice though, looks great
Agreed, until you want to thread close to a shoulder. I’m in the middle of making one from scratch.
@@PhilEngineering In those cases if your chuck isn't a threaded on affair then the other way around that is to flip the tool, reset your centre height and thread away from the chuck, for the longest time that was my standard threading arrangement haha, that was unfortunately a necessity for me because it was an imperial lathe and most of our customers wanted metric threads, gotta make do with what you've got as they say
Here's a tip: Instead of "scotchbrighting something for 1/2 hour", put the scotchbrite pad down, then use a random orbital sander on top - your arms will thank me later!
Hmm this last lathe restoration video is 5 months old. I just subscribed but wonder if you are planning to upload the third part of the series.
Liked and Subscribed.
Lovely machine! Did you forget to adjust the apron gibs? They are fitted on both the front and rear.
I adjusted them off camera, there was not enough space for filming it properly.
All this is, basically , is washing the machine.
Hey Phil.
Once again, I am totally flabbergasted (Sprachlos) about the great quality of your aged machines...
Like my father and/or grandfather always said: 'You have to afford to buy cheap', meaning, if you buy cheap/niederqualität, and have to repair or upgrade such a machine, to brng it up to par, what is cheaper in the long-run??
Quick question:
Do you have any vids about moving the machines, how you got them (delivered) home, and/or manouvered into your shop/basement??
None-the-less, keep up the amazing work, I am here to follow you/your journey, bruder!!!
Grüsse/Regards aus WI/Hessen, ja?
Thank you! Both machines were transported on a trailer but I paid a professional to lift them off the trailer. Then a lot of man power and a pallet jack 👌
Excellent video! what way oil do you use? and what do you clean with? I have an old leblond that needs a similar tear down and clean!
It’s a CGLP ISO VG 68 way oil. This has the properties the manual calls out.
Just as a shoutout to anyone installing a DRO.
Or will I just sound like a grumpy old man picking on every small detail… 🙄🙈😅
If it’s anything like the ones I have (it sure looks so), the installation manual says to keep the transportation lock/adjustment shim (the black plastic piece in the background at 37:00) in place for the correct spacing between the head and scale, when tightening it.
I’m not saying you did anything wrong here. It might just be out of the video.
Just a small detail for anyone looking for inspiration in this awesome project and video. 👌
Impressive to say the least.
Edit: And just because of me commenting about the spacer/liner you mentioning it less then two minutes later. 🤦♂️
I’m sorry for jumping the gun here.
Ooh, and your brackets look 1000x better than mine. Really nice.
Hast du den Motor umgepolt wegen der Lautstärke und dem zahnrad zur Änderung der drehrichtung? Meine Colchester triumph 2000 ist auch sehr laut. Könntest du das nochmal erklären? Stehe auf dem Schlauch.
MfG Wilhelm
Ist umgepolt um das ausgeschlagene Zahnrad zu überbrücken. Das Reverse Zahnrad dreht dadurch dann vorwärts und das andere wird nicht mehr belastet aber ist nur eine vorübergehende Lösung.
Have you not heard soaking parts Diesel
Thank you for posting a good video, but it's little a shame.
As you can see on other channels that post similar videos, most channels don't have BGM except for the opening and ending.
Many people want to hear the sound of work and the sound of the machine.
But if you don't have BGM, you have to adjust the volume to balance the video.
I'll always cheer for you, and I'll look forward to your good videos
Schöne Drehbank
Wieso ist das Video in Englisch als Deutscher?
got a student a few months ago. I was totally surprised by its quality, what a fine piece of engeneering. Very very few remarks about it to make.
Part 3 please🎉🎉🎉❤❤