Easiest way to get bearings on, take that O-Ring off of it, throw the bearings in the Oven or heat them up causally with a torch (NOT RED HOT) just Hot is all, use a can of Air Duster upside down freeze the Axle and then the bearings will drop right on and they will acclimate together (become the same Temp as the room/area) and they will be on good as being pressed on.
Will they work with the Disc brake setup? like on the 1996 Explorer, im building a 8.8 for my Project car and dont want the C clip just falling out on me.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful! I've had good luck with axle bearings using a pipe whose internal diameter is just larger then the axle. It rests on the inner bearing race and allows you to softly drive on the bearing or wedding ring uniformly. If you use a piece of wood like that you can damage the bearings by hitting on the outside of the bearing.
In regards to pulling bearings, a grappler or grappler slide hammer is the tool to use. The other thing that makes life a lot easier is a torch. I have an oxy-acetleyne cutting torch that i use just without hitting the cut lever but even the little camping acetelyne bottles you get at lowes will work and make your life a whole lot easier. When pressing bearings, save yourself the trouble and use a hydraulic press or go pay someone that has one to do it. Its cheaper than buying a new set of bearings. The wedding ring is supposed to be heated before being pressed on. Another trick for installing bearings like the original c-clip bearings where they are pressed into a hub or an axle tube is to put your bearings in the freezer for a few hours. Don't hit bearings with a hammer even if you have a piece of wood between-they are fragile, use the proper tools or run your parts up to a shop with the tools. We love helping DIY guys and most of us mechanics remember the days of working in the garage when we didn't have all the handy tools so we are glad to help for a small fee. It takes 5 minutes to press bearings like these, if you are friendly or young i'd probably do it for you for free.
Brady, I already have these installed on my 8.8 5 lug but wanted to see details as they were installed by a friend of mine. As for the critics don't worry about it. This was a very informative step by step video. Thanks!
Thanks buddy I really appreciate the comment. I need to get back with it, with this channel. I've been so distracted by my motorcycle I've neglected this channel in favor of my motorcycle channel. Glad this helped you get a visual.
Thank you for the informative video. May I suggest getting a tripod for your camera. I know I would like to actually see you doing the work. Thank you for the video.
Getting ready to do this on my gbody, which is basically the same procedure. Really appreciate the video because it was hard for me to visualize exactly how it all went together. Huge help!
@@shortblock6847 I actually never went with the c-clip eliminators. I called Summit and they told me they are not for street, which my car is.... Other than track night. Anyway he suggested upgrading the axles, which I did with Moser units. He said the rear will break before the axles. I have a 8.5" from an 85 442 with 3.73 gears. So far so good!
Good video man it's nice you're not trying to sound overly professional like a lot of people and then they end up making a shity video. That doesn't teach us anything
Get a 5-ton shop press from Harbor Freight and press the bearings and wedding ring on. Never perform by hitting with a hammer as was done here or you risk damaging the bearing. Also, if you aren't switching to 31 spline 5 lug nut axles, using this kit is overkill...it simply is wasting good money on an unnecessary mod.
To press the last ring on i'd just take two pieces of wood, duct tape them to opposite sides and hit it with two hammers at the same time. That'd probably work.
Thanks for the amazing video. I hope you make more. You are very good at it. I'm building a 1989 notchback and I been looking at a lot of videos on CZcams for tips and you are the best.
Pro Tip: use the slide hammer to pull the bearing and seal all at once. Pro Tip 2: wrap bearings, or anything involving an interference fit, in a damp paper towel and microwave 60 secs or until paper towel starts to physically dry then just slide bearing on. It IS microwave safe if wrapped in a damp paper towel, the towel will start to dry before any damage is done. Theres also a better attachment for the slide hammer to pull bearings. Nevertheless, good install.
I think-not sure! ......The c-clip eliminators will only work with after market axles that measure 1.563"diameter bearing seat. so if you have stock 28 spline axles don't waste your money.
Only adapters O'Reillys had. The kit was missing some components but its all I had to rent. At least it was enough to get the job done although took me longer than I anticipated.
I have heard from some people that certain kits will actually push the wheel out a eighth to a quarter inch. I'd call the company and specifically ask them about it. I sold all my drag stuff and bought a performance Tesla (never looked back) but I had my new wheels machined to be perfectly flush with the fender. If my wheels got pushed out even a couple of millimeters, it would ruin the look of the car.
Wrong attachment for the slide hammer, that's why the bearing was destroyed. This vid has just little too time wasted, should have started with a stripped down axle and eliminators being installed on the axles. Best to install eliminators on a press with collars, NEVER hammer on bearings, wood or not, bearings should pressed on by inside race only. 4 lug axles? Really?
Just an FYI, that front section you pulled off with the hammer was actually a part of the bearing itself. The reason the bearing was a pain in the ass to remove was because they are press fitted in place. The best method would have been to use the slide hammer from the beginning. Find something that sits just around the diameter of the bearing and slam it out. Even hits and it should pop out. You did manage to take it out, but it happened piece by piece. lol Good job non the less. You want a real challenge, try removing a bearing that requires the part to be chilled with liquid nitrogen...Talk about a tight fit.
can you use something like the OTC Hub Grappler ? I have a Subaru Impreza I've had to replace hub bearing from playing to rough in the snow and the hub grappler worked good
Philip Tye That is exactly what should be used. I just Googled OTC Hub Grappler and saw an instructional video. The adapters that this tool has is what one needs to be able to pull automotive bearings. One should understand that when it comes to bearings, removal and installation must be done as even as possible. When a bearing is press-fit within a component, care must be taken to remove and install it in one smooth motion. If not, you run the risk of gouging or deforming the inner race of the area the bearing sits in and could cause the bearing to seat wrong. The most important thing to remember is when you install a bearing, you always want to apply force to the most outer diameter (edge) of the bearing by using something similar to a socket equal or slightly smaller that the bearing. Never hit a bearing from the center or you can cause unnecessary wear or break it.
Strange makes an eliminator kit for street cars as well. The street car version has the tapered Timken bearings, the race version has ball bearings I believe.
C clips eliminator kit on a 4 lug axle and stock 28 spline ...so worth the trouble lol BTW this kit if for track or straight line use and can't handle a lot of corners.
tell me if I am wrong.. at 17:36, it occurs to me that the first OEM setup was a semi-floating axel, but your c-clip eliminators converted it to a floating axel? I am really new to this concept, so if I am wrong... how am I wrong?
Robert Paul Guidry Full floating axles don't support any vehicle weight. Like on an f-250 or 350. The c-clip eliminators don't change the axle design with the exception of keeping the axles (and wheels) in place should the axles break under load. They still support vehicle weight. Hope that helps.
Nice video. If u ever do another one freeze the axle a no heat the wedding ring in the oven and it will slide on easy no pressing needed. And put the gasket sealer on the gasket then put on axle then it spreads perfect and none on ur threads thatvwas the only bad part of video. 😁
the purpose of this kit is to eliminate the c clips,cross pin and lil 8mm bolt. what happens is the 8mm bolt breaks causing the cross pin to back out and lock up the rear. along with retaining axels.
Very informative. The 31 spline 2001 5 lug is known for the axle tube from the housing which is pressed in, to come out eventually. Had mine welded all the way around.
You sir, have no clue. This whole thing is designed so that WHEN you break the axle wherever it may be at, the axle doesn’t exit the car and quite possibly wreck you
Many people ask why would you do this. Aside from having the retention less reliant on C clips which can break, this type of modification is necessary if you want to switch to a spool for a locked rear end. Benefit of a spool over a welded diff is less (and balanced) rotational weight.
+bcubed72 They also allow someone to mount fixed calipers to a c-clip axle. C-clip axles use floating calipers that move with the axle, but if you want good brakes they need to be fixed calipers. If you put fixed calipers on a c-clip axle, the axle will slide out and compress the pistons in a turn and create brake fade. The eliminators keep this from happening.
Seen your track vids im assuming you have a go pro. Try and get a head band for it. So it can help you on your next videos and have both hands free. Make it easier for you to work. Great vids btw keep em coming.
Wrong puller. Yes a tripod would help you because then you would need to organize your scenes which would organize your project. Harbor freight sells 20 press, get one. Your going to break something or get hurt or both. No I'm not trying to be critical I'm trying to be helpful.
+oldpieceoflooseass Horsepower doesnt break shafts, torque does. when you have deep 5.13 gears and a 38 inch tire stuck between a rock in a welded diff all it takes is the right blip of the throttle and SNAP!
Well if you break your c clips you're going to be even more fucked, look up a video of a c clip breaking, it's quite a mess. So spending a weekend replacing an axle and bearing(c clip eliminator), or replacing the axle, bearing, rotor, and possibly much more(c clips), I'm gonna take the c clip eliminator.
i still don't trust just a pressed bearing on a shaft to hold the axle in. theres is nothing but the bearing race on the shaft that holds it in? if you damage the bearing or run low on fluid and it gets hot the bearing could easily slip out. as long as your clips and center pin are in, the shaft CANT come out.now if you break a shaft with c clips it will come "walking out" don't see how this is any more fucked. if you have disc brakes most rear style discs will hold the shaft from walking out. I broke the shaft in my truck and was still able to drive home. I could see the axle wobbling trying to come out. but my Disc brakes held the axle in.sure it ruined my rotor but 40$ is cheaper then a tow.
The ford 9" rear end is EXACTLY the same only uses a larger bearing. And racers and rock crawlers all over the country use those rear ends every day. So no, you aren't really screwed. You can swap in a new axle fairly quickly if you take the time and invest in having a second set of axles prepared to keep with you during your rock crawling. Simply jack up the broken side, remove the axle and install the new one. If you have the right tools, the eliminator off the broken axle can be installed onto a new axle when you get home, And trusting 2 brake caliper bolts to hold in a wobbly axle could have cost you a lot more had the caliper bolts broken.
Daniele Silvaggi The car is mine (the person recording the video who's channel your watching) Its got a 306 with a 67mm Turbonetics ball bearing turbo has a 10 point roll cage and is tubbed among other things. So no its not a 4cylinder. Not a Ford guy necessarily either. Have mostly videos of my Camaro on my channel.
Apologetic, just wondering about the 4 bolt axles it's funny is all. Plus it's all in fun I get the same. I have an 80 Camaro with 383 stroker 10 bolt posi and I have to put the cclip elims in but I think I bought the ones for drums and I have discs, so that is something to laugh about.
Easiest way to get bearings on, take that O-Ring off of it, throw the bearings in the Oven or heat them up causally with a torch (NOT RED HOT) just Hot is all, use a can of Air Duster upside down freeze the Axle and then the bearings will drop right on and they will acclimate together (become the same Temp as the room/area) and they will be on good as being pressed on.
Glad you found it helpful. The axles I used were stock. Thanks for watching.
Will they work with the Disc brake setup? like on the 1996 Explorer, im building a 8.8 for my Project car and dont want the C clip just falling out on me.
Link to parts used to video....Please
Thanks for the video. Very helpful!
I've had good luck with axle bearings using a pipe whose internal diameter is just larger then the axle. It rests on the inner bearing race and allows you to softly drive on the bearing or wedding ring uniformly. If you use a piece of wood like that you can damage the bearings by hitting on the outside of the bearing.
measuring thing. hitting stick. whatever that thing is. and the dead give away, the red silicone. could not watch it any longer.
In regards to pulling bearings, a grappler or grappler slide hammer is the tool to use. The other thing that makes life a lot easier is a torch. I have an oxy-acetleyne cutting torch that i use just without hitting the cut lever but even the little camping acetelyne bottles you get at lowes will work and make your life a whole lot easier. When pressing bearings, save yourself the trouble and use a hydraulic press or go pay someone that has one to do it. Its cheaper than buying a new set of bearings. The wedding ring is supposed to be heated before being pressed on. Another trick for installing bearings like the original c-clip bearings where they are pressed into a hub or an axle tube is to put your bearings in the freezer for a few hours. Don't hit bearings with a hammer even if you have a piece of wood between-they are fragile, use the proper tools or run your parts up to a shop with the tools. We love helping DIY guys and most of us mechanics remember the days of working in the garage when we didn't have all the handy tools so we are glad to help for a small fee. It takes 5 minutes to press bearings like these, if you are friendly or young i'd probably do it for you for free.
Brady, I already have these installed on my 8.8 5 lug but wanted to see details as they were installed by a friend of mine. As for the critics don't worry about it. This was a very informative step by step video. Thanks!
Thanks buddy I really appreciate the comment. I need to get back with it, with this channel. I've been so distracted by my motorcycle I've neglected this channel in favor of my motorcycle channel. Glad this helped you get a visual.
Link for parts in video....Please kit?
Thank you for the informative video. May I suggest getting a tripod for your camera. I know I would like to actually see you doing the work. Thank you for the video.
Getting ready to do this on my gbody, which is basically the same procedure. Really appreciate the video because it was hard for me to visualize exactly how it all went together. Huge help!
What rear end are you running in the ole-g-body...Any links for the parts used in your build?Thanks
@@shortblock6847 I actually never went with the c-clip eliminators. I called Summit and they told me they are not for street, which my car is.... Other than track night. Anyway he suggested upgrading the axles, which I did with Moser units. He said the rear will break before the axles. I have a 8.5" from an 85 442 with 3.73 gears. So far so good!
so, you are teaching people how to do things that you dont know how to do?
nitrousshovelhead Sure. There wasn't much for videos on it so I figured this might help someone out.
For the wedding ring, cut a plywood donut and use a long pipe with a larger inside diameter than the outside diameter of the axle shaft.
Amen to that!
20 ton press from harbor freight has been my best friend
Good video man it's nice you're not trying to sound overly professional like a lot of people and then they end up making a shity video. That doesn't teach us anything
Thanks brother and I appreciate the kind words. Thank you.
Get a 5-ton shop press from Harbor Freight and press the bearings and wedding ring on. Never perform by hitting with a hammer as was done here or you risk damaging the bearing. Also, if you aren't switching to 31 spline 5 lug nut axles, using this kit is overkill...it simply is wasting good money on an unnecessary mod.
To press the last ring on i'd just take two pieces of wood, duct tape them to opposite sides and hit it with two hammers at the same time. That'd probably work.
Thanks for watching. The axles will not stick out any farther. Will be in the stock location.
You're supposed to use some rtv between the two halves of the eliminator also. Asking for a leak
Thanks for the amazing video. I hope you make more. You are very good at it. I'm building a 1989 notchback and I been looking at a lot of videos on CZcams for tips and you are the best.
Pro Tip: use the slide hammer to pull the bearing and seal all at once.
Pro Tip 2: wrap bearings, or anything involving an interference fit, in a damp paper towel and microwave 60 secs or until paper towel starts to physically dry then just slide bearing on. It IS microwave safe if wrapped in a damp paper towel, the towel will start to dry before any damage is done.
Theres also a better attachment for the slide hammer to pull bearings.
Nevertheless, good install.
so it's just the pressed bearing holding the axel in? how is that any better. heat and wear could still rip it apart..
No. The so called wedding ring is.
dude....DUDE, you need to hire a mechanic.
I think-not sure! ......The c-clip eliminators will only work with after market axles that measure 1.563"diameter bearing seat. so if you have stock 28 spline axles don't waste your money.
great video dude, excellent
Thank you.
Dont forget on later mustangs like my 2003 you have to remove the ABS sensor for the axles to go all the way in.
Did you grease the bearings?
A little grease on all the o-rings would be helpful for assembly .
you have a slide hammer there why didn’t you use it to pull the bearings out?
Does the c-clip eliminators come with the right size bearing to be able to use the stock axles thank you looking for parts list/links
Only adapters O'Reillys had. The kit was missing some components but its all I had to rent. At least it was enough to get the job done although took me longer than I anticipated.
Will the c clip eliminator kit push my tires out further?
I have heard from some people that certain kits will actually push the wheel out a eighth to a quarter inch. I'd call the company and specifically ask them about it. I sold all my drag stuff and bought a performance Tesla (never looked back) but I had my new wheels machined to be perfectly flush with the fender. If my wheels got pushed out even a couple of millimeters, it would ruin the look of the car.
Do all c-clip elimination kits require you to cut the ends of the axle off...???
+Alex Branim wtf
Yes
Wrong attachment for the slide hammer, that's why the bearing was destroyed. This vid has just little too time wasted, should have started with a stripped down axle and eliminators being installed on the axles. Best to install eliminators on a press with collars, NEVER hammer on bearings, wood or not, bearings should pressed on by inside race only. 4 lug axles? Really?
It's better for the poor like me to keep it on the vehicle
Just an FYI, that front section you pulled off with the hammer was actually a part of the bearing itself. The reason the bearing was a pain in the ass to remove was because they are press fitted in place. The best method would have been to use the slide hammer from the beginning.
Find something that sits just around the diameter of the bearing and slam it out. Even hits and it should pop out. You did manage to take it out, but it happened piece by piece. lol
Good job non the less. You want a real challenge, try removing a bearing that requires the part to be chilled with liquid nitrogen...Talk about a tight fit.
can you use something like the OTC Hub Grappler ? I have a Subaru Impreza I've had to replace hub bearing from playing to rough in the snow and the hub grappler worked good
Philip Tye That is exactly what should be used. I just Googled OTC Hub Grappler and saw an instructional video. The adapters that this tool has is what one needs to be able to pull automotive bearings.
One should understand that when it comes to bearings, removal and installation must be done as even as possible. When a bearing is press-fit within a component, care must be taken to remove and install it in one smooth motion. If not, you run the risk of gouging or deforming the inner race of the area the bearing sits in and could cause the bearing to seat wrong.
The most important thing to remember is when you install a bearing, you always want to apply force to the most outer diameter (edge) of the bearing by using something similar to a socket equal or slightly smaller that the bearing. Never hit a bearing from the center or you can cause unnecessary wear or break it.
Thanks for sharing the informative video. Last thing I need to do myself.
Is this a street car? I notice the instructions say for drag racing only. Must have weakness issues with side loading.
Strange makes an eliminator kit for street cars as well. The street car version has the tapered Timken bearings, the race version has ball bearings I believe.
C clips eliminator kit on a 4 lug axle and stock 28 spline ...so worth the trouble lol BTW this kit if for track or straight line use and can't handle a lot of corners.
Diehlsville thats what I was thinking watching this
Plenty of guys go fast on 4 lugs lol 28 spline not so much.
tell me if I am wrong.. at 17:36, it occurs to me that the first OEM setup was a semi-floating axel, but your c-clip eliminators converted it to a floating axel? I am really new to this concept, so if I am wrong... how am I wrong?
Robert Paul Guidry Full floating axles don't support any vehicle weight. Like on an f-250 or 350. The c-clip eliminators don't change the axle design with the exception of keeping the axles (and wheels) in place should the axles break under load. They still support vehicle weight. Hope that helps.
It seems like it’s just the friction of that bearing that holds the axle in. That’s crazy to me lol
Nice video. If u ever do another one freeze the axle a no heat the wedding ring in the oven and it will slide on easy no pressing needed. And put the gasket sealer on the gasket then put on axle then it spreads perfect and none on ur threads thatvwas the only bad part of video. 😁
And how is the drum supposed to fit over all of that
The axles are stock, the axle flange is in exactly the same position as it was before, the drums will go on as before.
Been 6 years now. Any updates? How did they hold up? Thanks.
the purpose of this kit is to eliminate the c clips,cross pin and lil 8mm bolt. what happens is the 8mm bolt breaks causing the cross pin to back out and lock up the rear. along with retaining axels.
Very informative. The 31 spline 2001 5 lug is known for the axle tube from the housing which is pressed in, to come out eventually. Had mine welded all the way around.
If you leave the cross pin and its retaining bolt out WHAT holds the spider gears in place?....Oh what a mess that would make.
You sir, have no clue. This whole thing is designed so that WHEN you break the axle wherever it may be at, the axle doesn’t exit the car and quite possibly wreck you
Many people ask why would you do this. Aside from having the retention less reliant on C clips which can break, this type of modification is necessary if you want to switch to a spool for a locked rear end. Benefit of a spool over a welded diff is less (and balanced) rotational weight.
How you going to change your bearing it will fail?
So...what's the benefit? Does it increase GAWR or the amount of torque the axle can handle, or does it improve handling?
+bcubed72 They also allow someone to mount fixed calipers to a c-clip axle. C-clip axles use floating calipers that move with the axle, but if you want good brakes they need to be fixed calipers. If you put fixed calipers on a c-clip axle, the axle will slide out and compress the pistons in a turn and create brake fade. The eliminators keep this from happening.
so glad i found this video. very helpful. my question is, did you use your original axles?
Thanks for the video...good job.
Seen your track vids im assuming you have a go pro. Try and get a head band for it. So it can help you on your next videos and have both hands free. Make it easier for you to work. Great vids btw keep em coming.
Wrong adapters for slide hammer
WoW I was gonna say something but I got to reading the comments. Mine never leaked.
Will these work on 8.8 F150?
Wrong puller. Yes a tripod would help you because then you would need to organize your scenes which would organize your project. Harbor freight sells 20 press, get one.
Your going to break something or get hurt or both. No I'm not trying to be critical I'm trying to be helpful.
Good advice.
Watch am call it,try a pipe over the bearing & ring .
Have u put aftermarket rear brake kit yet?
Latenight Motorsports No got working on another fox and a Camaro. Sold that car.
so if you break a shaft youre basically fucked, unless you have a spare setup already with the bearing
+Guinelle1 u cant break it specially with your 216hp rock crawler
+oldpieceoflooseass Horsepower doesnt break shafts, torque does. when you have deep 5.13 gears and a 38 inch tire stuck between a rock in a welded diff all it takes is the right blip of the throttle and SNAP!
Well if you break your c clips you're going to be even more fucked, look up a video of a c clip breaking, it's quite a mess. So spending a weekend replacing an axle and bearing(c clip eliminator), or replacing the axle, bearing, rotor, and possibly much more(c clips), I'm gonna take the c clip eliminator.
i still don't trust just a pressed bearing on a shaft to hold the axle in. theres is nothing but the bearing race on the shaft that holds it in? if you damage the bearing or run low on fluid and it gets hot the bearing could easily slip out. as long as your clips and center pin are in, the shaft CANT come out.now if you break a shaft with c clips it will come "walking out" don't see how this is any more fucked. if you have disc brakes most rear style discs will hold the shaft from walking out. I broke the shaft in my truck and was still able to drive home. I could see the axle wobbling trying to come out. but my Disc brakes held the axle in.sure it ruined my rotor but 40$ is cheaper then a tow.
The ford 9" rear end is EXACTLY the same only uses a larger bearing. And racers and rock crawlers all over the country use those rear ends every day. So no, you aren't really screwed. You can swap in a new axle fairly quickly if you take the time and invest in having a second set of axles prepared to keep with you during your rock crawling. Simply jack up the broken side, remove the axle and install the new one. If you have the right tools, the eliminator off the broken axle can be installed onto a new axle when you get home, And trusting 2 brake caliper bolts to hold in a wobbly axle could have cost you a lot more had the caliper bolts broken.
question. it didn't ask for locktite on the c-clip eliminators?
That’s a ghetto solution to an easy problem
Hilarious
That's a ford 8.8, with a lsd, so....why are there drum brakes...?
+quonnieQYC Because foxbody
because it is 87-93 fox body model. disc brakes weren't put on those mustangs. Only exception was the 93 cobra.Discs were put on standard on 94+
Drums+4 lug ftw.
The turbo coupe thunderbird had disc brakes
Pretty pit man
wedding ring is ment to be heated and then pressed on
The One Man Army haha
Funny how many people come here looking for free advice and then talk shit. Flat earth
C clip eliminators and 4 lug axels......uhhhhh OK.....".
right? I guess it's a Ford tempo or 2.5l mustang
I know someone with 680whp with 4lug stil 🤦
28 spline axles will break way before the studs would snap
This has to be joke.
Hate to say it but "that's a ford owner" lmfao I bet he put a blower on the 4 cyl.
Daniele Silvaggi The car is mine (the person recording the video who's channel your watching) Its got a 306 with a 67mm Turbonetics ball bearing turbo has a 10 point roll cage and is tubbed among other things. So no its not a 4cylinder. Not a Ford guy necessarily either. Have mostly videos of my Camaro on my channel.
Apologetic, just wondering about the 4 bolt axles it's funny is all. Plus it's all in fun I get the same. I have an 80 Camaro with 383 stroker 10 bolt posi and I have to put the cclip elims in but I think I bought the ones for drums and I have discs, so that is something to laugh about.
you sir are a butcher
How else would you want him to do it?