Amazing Acura: No A/C & No Washer...
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- 2009 Acura MDX Customer complaint:
No Air Conditioning, and intermittently the front washer doesn't spray. Hmmm.
Ends up being a strange case, with more info needed on the history of the vehicle.
LAUNCH DIAGUN:
www.amazon.com...
A/C LEAK DETECTOR:
www.amazon.com...
Enjoy!
Ivan
Your customer was very smart to not let that shop sell them a compressor. Sounds like a shyster to me and someone looking for an easy way to make $500 vs. $150 for an A/C recharge. It goes like this: Unplug the compressor clutch to trip the MIL, print it out and tell the customer the computer says your compressor is bad. Perform the a/c recharge, plug the connector back in and voila!!!!! A fixed compressor!
That little fish scale for the refrigerant is genius!!
Putting the small cans on a digital postage scale works great too!
20:07 -- Smells as if low refrigerant became an excuse for a dishonest mechanic to sell a naive customer a new compressor. Just pull the plug and ...
I agree
@@rickharper1497 Me too.
not sure if you guys gives a shit but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times then you can watch all of the new movies on instaflixxer. Have been watching with my girlfriend lately =)
@Yosef Brecken yup, I have been using instaflixxer for since december myself :D
Dirty mechanics bro 😠. Appreciate all the honest you tubers mechanics for what you do and show us . Thank you 🙏.
What an odd one, sounds like the man that made the diagnosis of a dead compressor just wanted to rip off the owner. :-(, There is no need to rip off a customer, just be fair.
You are very fair and kind to your customers ivan, you do the cheapest you can without undercutting yourself.
No one could moan about that.
The washer relays reminded me of the upstairs/downstairs light switches in uk houses, 2 x single pole, double throw per light bulb.
Great fun standing upstairs and countermanding your brother/sister turning the lights on from downstairs lol
I was a devil :-D
I just had a ton of AC problems with our Odyssey, similar year & body style. Made a bunch of videos on my Channel about it. Long story short it turned out to be the electromagnetic clutch for the compressor had an intermittent short. That was after I replaced everything else in the system, expansion valve, condensor, all sensors, relays, control unit, etc...
Correction: intermittent open
Thank God you were handy enough to do it. I hate to imagine the cost if a shop did all of that repair. It looks like a lot of work in close quarters.
@@dogsplantscarsneatstuff176 It's up to the shop to get the fault right first time. If they don't it is up to them to fix it. EDIT: But I know what you mean, some shops will make excuses that you didn't explain the fault properly etc etc.
@@BoB4jjjjs I had the impression that Mr. Warren did the work himself. He said he made videos about the non working A/C on his channel. Was I wrong?
my guess re the ac is it was low , but the ac guy wanted to rip the guy a new one for new compressor and a refill
Yup, I imagine it happens all the time.
And he would acquire a used good compressor, give it a little shine up and presto a rebuilt one ready to go for the next sucker. On the BBB honesty scale index, mechanics come in just under roofers, which is just under Residential A/C repair.
This. Is why more videos showing diagnostic procedures are coming out not only for new techs but also for customers. So they can have the knowledge to understand what the mechanic is talking about and to keep from getting jacked around.
This happens all too frequently, and is why people don't trust mechanics. It's hard to know when you're getting ripped off.
@@QBRX a lot of time it's time is money and the shop pushes the tech to get it fixed and gone. And the tech is trying to diagnose the root cause. When it comes to ac the customer just wants it fixed. During the recovery and vacuum that is the perfect time to test the ac circuits but the control side works off the pressure so I leave that for the charge if I can't bypass it
That’s one interesting video, Ivan. Yesterday, I fixed a intermittent headlight problem. 2010 Chevy Malibu. Complaint was the driver side headlight went out intermittently. Customer said few guys have looked at it before and been messing around and charging her a lot of money and not fix. Sad..I Found zip tie that on around connector. I was like hmm that’s weird. I cut it and disconnect the connector. It’s burnt. I don’t see pin. 🤯. I ordered the whole harness. Put it on. it’s fixed. Customer is very happy. Love happy customers. Keep making video!!!
Those Hondas/Acuras have a problem with the clutch relays sticking closed, overpressurizing, and blowing refrigerant out the relief valve. They will also cause a parasitic draw. Happened on my 08 Odyssey by around 50K miles. IIf the relief valve opens it should be replaced. It's possible this is what happened and the tech disconnected it and didn't recharge it. Honda has an updated relay made by Mitsuba rather than the cheap Omron they used from the factory. Anyone with a Honda from the 2000's on up would be well advised to replace the relay with the updated one. Honda put out a Service News article to their techs about it quite a few years ago. Updated relay part# 39794-SDA-A05. Fits pretty much all those Hondas/Acuras.
Omron usually makes quality stuff.
Thanks to you, I feel more accomplished when completing a "No Parts Required" repair.
I've been watching many video channels on automotive repairs and I have to say yours is at the top.
Good job, walking us thru your troubleshooting.
The relay that you bought is the original one, but it has been found that the Honda oem #39794-sda-a05 is a better relay for the ac.
I too was told that I needed a $2,200 compressor and other parts, for my 2007 MDX. I got a 2nd opinion (over the phone). The mechanic said that the relay is the 1st thing to change ($28) and checking the gap of the clutch pulley was next. My gap was almost twice the spec. I pulled it off (I had to use a medium pry-bar to push the engine towards the driver's side to get the pulley off). I removed a shim (washer) and got the gap back in to spec. That was 2 years ago. I never spent the $2,200 that I saved.
I've seen the line to the rear AC leak on these vehicles. It's hard to pick up with a detector because the pipe is wrapped in insulating tape. AC dye is the best way to find this. Also the bad abs control module code is usually caused by the power wire to the module loosening up at the positive battery terminal. The little ten mm. nut loosens up. usually an easy fix.
Great tip!
I have seen that from many repair shops specially dealership when the vehicle it is no longer under warranty. They want to replace it all to gave you the "warranty" for the job. They are either looking for the extra money ripping off customers or using scary tactics to make the customer agree on replacing the entire system components just because the warranty. Thank goodness still good mechanics and repair shops out there like Pine Hollow that are honest and wont rip off their customers.
Thank you for the comprehensive video. Really enjoy the follow up in which you detail the customer's experience of your repair. Great work!
My pleasure! Customer will watch the video too haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That's what's cool. Hope it fuels appreciation for your determination and dedication to solving problems, by us and customers. Especially those that have not been exposed to what it takes to get the job done concerning diagnostics and repairs.
One thing I learned as a dealer tech is that the "OEM" parts available at the parts counter, are *not* the same as the parts that come installed at the factory assembly line. The manufacturer has to meet a certain percentage of domestically sourced parts *at assembly* to be able to say it's "made in USA"... so they assembly line vendors are in USA, but the "oem" repair parts are from Taiwan, China, ROK, whatever is cheap. I've found this time and again with material quality, fit and finish that you're better off buying known good parts off junkyard cars than buying at the dealer parts counter.
I have been using A C dye in systems for almost 20 years now after I misdiagnosed my sister in laws ac system on her car with an audible leak detector, I had replaced the evaporator core when it was actually the compressor. What I really like is even if the vehicle comes back with no refrigerant in the system you can still use the UV light to find the leak. I still use my audible detector on occasion, like when the customer is waiting and I'm not seeing any leaks with the dye at that moment but typically I advise them to drive it until it quits cooling then bring it back and let me confirm were the leak is. Just sayin, great video and diag, looking forward to the next one! Bonus comment :) I got lucky on my sister in laws car, I had another customer come in with a car like hers, they burned up there engine and did not want to fix it, there was a brand new compressor on the car, what luck!
I did my first DIY AC repair this summer after buying some tools and doing research. I bought gauges, vacuum pump, and UV dye and light, but no leak detector.
@@n9wox This is pretty much how I got into fixing my own AC. Back in 2006 my fiancée started driving a 92 Cavalier that the air did not work. Shop wanted about $1,000 to fix it. I didn't know crap about AC systems. She bought the tools(gauges, vacuum pump, and some other things) I bought some books and found some online forums and ended up fixing the AC system and it worked for years until the new compressor sprung a leak a few years ago. Since that time I've fixed about 12 other vehicles. I later bought a refrigerant scale and a couple tanks of R134a which makes recharging a lot easier than the 12oz cans.
Good Video, Truly! Thank You for bringing us along. I'm not a Honda/ Acura fan by any means, but I always enjoy and learn from the simplistic Master, Ivan.
Fish scale used because previous shop "fishy" diagnosis? Love it!
Great job. My A/C clutch coil expired after ten years, with the last years with little use, but A/C worked until about six months ago. The compressor turned freely. I replaced A/C clutch coil (that's another story about removing rust-welded snap rings, dealing with cheaply made new snap rings and OEM kits with the critical snap rings left out of the kit entirely), no pressure in system to begin with, started charging it from a DIY 134a can and valve, and with the engine on blew the compressor seals. I haven't had the heart to go back into system, but I was very happy to see you demonstrate how to do it correctly. Thanks again.
The AC dude stole the customers Refrigerant!
He probably just vented it to the atmosphere. I'm sure a shady mechanic like that doesn't have a recovery machine.
Nice job Ivan. Thanks for the followups too!
they unplug the compressor so they can sell them a new compressor nice honest job Ivan
We are about an hour away and have a car that has been to a few shops to diagnose a traction light problem. When the light comes on the brake lights stay on. The dealer looked at it and replaced a wiring harness. Another garage replaced the BCM. Another did something with wiring connections. No fix yet. We are thinking about bringing it up to you.
Please bring it to Ivan, that sounds like it would make for a good video!!
Thank you Ivan for helping me understand the proper use of a scan tool.
On the washer u can call it the magic Ivan's touch
Me: Ivan, how big was that fish that you caught at Lake Acura?
Ivan: It was 12 oz. of 134A and it gave a little bit of a fight! It was short and squatty all fat and no body. A very cold blooded creature.
Great idea for a fish scale to measure refrigerant. My next buy will be a fish scale.
Some shops that previously diagnosed a vehicle will keep the refrigerant if the customer does not want to do the repair. I usually pull the system into a vacuum first and add some oil and dye as well and see how long the system will hold. The system must be completely dry to hold vacuum. Any residual air and moisture will move the needles. I use the CPS Electronic leak detector. The TIF is also a good leak detector as well. Great A/C diagnostic video. Thumbs up.
Great diagnosis and repair ivan honesty 👍is the best policy best advertising is by building a happy customer database
Perform a voltage drop test on the relay compare it to the other relay or a new the relay contacts could have abnormal resistance after extended use of the front wiper the resistance causes heat build up and than complete failure of the relay
Also when the relay cools down the voltage drop returns to lower mv levels as the relay contacts heat up the voltage drop increase to the point might be higher 5 to 10 volts thats when the wipers will fail. By comparing the voltage drop when wipers are working and comparing it to a new relay you can eliminate the relay as the problem. switched contacts approaching 300 mv or more is a failing switch Using voltage drop is like being able to visualize the the condition of the contact points (pitted and burned)
Nice job Ivan. I gotta feeling his system will empty during the winter when the pressure drops. (Outside temp affects pressure in the system- temp drops to zero leaving 0 lbs of pressure- brittle seal begins to leak) If the compressor has a bad seal it empties the freon through the leaky seal. The seal gets brittle and hard so it always empties the system in time for spring.
We'll see next year!
Maybe they were hoping the customer said change A/C compressor.. They tell them got you a remain unit. Plugs it back in charges the system. Customer is happy the guy makes quick couple hundred bucks. That's why I ask for my old parts if I don't do the work. Ivan gave me mine back with out me even asking.
After pulling a vacuum. Charge it from the high side with liquid. This will go much faster than charging with vapor. Also the can wont freeze. If you don't get all of the charge in then add to the suction side. Then engage the compressor. If still more is needed, charge with liquid but regulate it about 15 to 20 psi above the actual running pressure.
Great diagnosis. Glad to see you don't need a fancy A/Cmachine to fix and A/C system.
Wow, sounds like I'm thinking what you were thinking on that last shop that played around in there. That really sucks - I hear this same story over and over again from my own customers, sadly enough. Sign of the times I guess. :(
Great idea with that fish scale! I never weighed cans before - that's a great idea! Another NPR fix, aside from the 134a - can't beat that!
It is the AC System O rings (change all of them, find them no exception) they cause small leak overtime when the AC is ON, pressure buildup and cause leak on the O Rings, over time like 3 to 4 months or more till is empty, sam thing happen to my 99 Honda CRV, i charge the AC in begining of the summer
of course after I apply vacuum to it, and tested it for leak and waited for half hour, the gauge doesn't move, and in the middle of winter the AC system is empty, till I changed all O Rings, (compressor, condenser , and the evaporator, and filter or drier at least that all O Rings my car have) and now AC is still full for two years and still working fine no problem.
Good work Ivan.
My guess is that the shop was positioning themselves to charge the customer for replacing the compressor without actually doing so.
On the gauge set I use the schrader to purge air rather than loosen hose as they are connected in manifold, we put a lot of relays for sticking on or going open and clutches for hot drop outs and eventually open circuits on honda/acura vehicles. Don't forget that gauges and lines also hold refrigerant so manufacturers also tell you to either zero scales after charging lines or add 4oz for amount left in gauge sets.
I actually purge the lines of liquid refrigerant before disconnecting them, so that's a very minimal amount. Sorry didn't show that part!
Ivan, your getting bloody good at fixing them machines and no loading up the parts cannon to boot. It's no wonder you keep getting repeat customers, if I lived anywhere nearby, I'd be returning too. As for the screen wash motor, its probably them leprechauns, fiddling with the connections. Turn your coat inside out and walk round in a circle 3 times and Paddy's your uncle !!
I've seen on the Hondas they put the ac clutch connector on the cooling fan housing. Say your doing and alternator or radiator and that fan has to be removed it is easy to forget to plug that it because its usually at the bottom. This one doesn't appear to be mounted on the fan but something to look out for
Once again nice work Ivan. thank you for taking us along on this one. I agree with your thought process and diagnostic approach.
With all due respect to someone else's diagnostic routine. it is entirely possible for that person to be wrong I've been wrong before and I'm sure I'll be wrong again in the future. After all we are human. It's like you said it pays to get a second opinion. Thanks again Ivan.
When you going to fly again?
Nice job Ivan!
very nicely done Ivan,great work.and a happy customer..and that's the main thing.
If you're going to draw a vac. on the AC system, you may as well replace the schrader valves since they often leak slowly and they're cheap.
Omron relays in Honda's are a known weak point. They were changed with a different part number which will explain the difference where they were made. They break up inside and rattle when you shake them.
probably leaking out the compressor shaft seal, I'll assume that's why the last shop flagged it, vs. them being crooked... but who knows, we'll find out in the future lol
I am a new subscriber and I love your videos bro! Keep it up!
Thanks for the comment, welcome to the channel!
Not only is the previous mechanic suspected of sabotage, he stole what was left of the Freon on evacuation! I am assuming: since you said at the end that the system has been trouble free for a couple of months that, if there is a leak it's very minor one!
Always look forward to your vids, Ivan
It makes me sad that somebody just wings a part at something just to make a buck on an unsuspecting customer as opposed to proper troubleshooting.
Good call on the relay. I've seen countless clutch coil relays on MDXs and TLs stick closed on the switch side and purge refrigerant out the pressure relief valve. They also pull 2 amps key-off current and kill the battery in a hurry when that happens too.
I see that the relay for the AC is made by OMRON, which is a Japanese company. However, they are also affected by global sourcing considerations, and even saving .01 cents/part makes economic sense, despite, the relays being manufactured on automated production lines - wages are almost meaningless there, and it boils down to energy prices and raw material costs. Since Fukushima, the cost of energy has risen a lot, forcing some manufacturing offshore.
Scotty says....blows freezing cold....about the AC.
in my area all the shops tell customers they need a new compressor... i've proven them wrong more than a few times.
I always check for lots of oil in the refrigerant by observing the service ports afterwards, they should be oily when you remove them. Oil is lost whenever the system is dischared. if they discharged it via the high side lots of oil could be lost. Who knows...
Nice Job on the A/C and washer. 👍
Relays are pretty resilient. He took his vehicle to a crooked shop that disconnected the compressor connector to verify voltage and left it unplugged. I have seen some real tricksters in my time as a mechanic. Most customers can see a scammer pretty easy and will get a second opinion.
I know two mechanics I would let touch my vehicle, Ivan and Eric!!! I do my own vehicle
User error could explain the intermittent front washer since they recently purchased the vehicle.
When I went through US Navy Electronics Training (long ago in my misspent youth) I learned that all electrical and electronics is "FM" (the "M" stands for magic, the "F" everyone will have to figure out for themselves😉 😊 😋). We would say: "It's all "FM" to me" when confronted with an intermittent problem like the windshield washers on that car.
Reminds me of old electronics tech repair tales - device was returned tagged "CCWT" (came clear while testing), or alternatively "CCBFM" (came clear by F-ing Magic)!
suggestion is always aim for the MIN weight charge on the OEM car manufacture AC sticker as you "Sweep" you gauges- concept of NOT leaving refrigerant in hoses then your system will be more towards the correct weigh in charge without going over. Additionally, no PAG (assuming) oil was injected? I would have added at min 2 ounces- and personally we do this when the system is in vacuum injected through the low port and pulled through the system via vacuum is a very easy way. Highly suggest if your getting involved in more HVAC repairs to get a 30lb bottle of R134a (assuming you have your proper EPA license to buy) and a proper refrigerant scale. You MAY OR COULD have over charged the system based on your math and inaccurate setup.
BONUS REPLY: charging by vapor can take a long time, liquid is preferred in short metered (flashing the refrigerant via the hvac guage) or one can utilized Imperial Tool 535C Kwik Charge Liquid Low Side Charger
@@proanswers I actually flip the can upside down and place near the exhaust manifold to speed up the process ;)
that scanner sound like something out of old star treck tricorder :)
Hahaha, yeah, now you point it out, it really sounds like the last thing a red shirt hears on a unknown planet before he dies
Haha
The AC relays stick on those a lot(sometime on, sometimes off). The relay may have stuck on and blew the refrigerant out of the pressure relief valve on the compressor.
Same thing happened to my '07 Odyssey.
I would check the compressor shaft for leaks,, the refrigerant went somewhere.. I had a crazy problem with an a/c compressor on my truck,., it would only leak when the compressor stopped at a certain position,, it would hold vacuum great, and pressure test showed nothing with bubbles or electronic detector .. this went on for a few days.. the way I found it, I shut the truck off in my driveway one day, and heard a hissing sound coming from the compressor... I bumped the key with the AC on, and it stopped... . WTH?
I think the compressor shaft seal is the most common spot for refrigerant leaks on vehicles.. next to shrader valves...
I always put leak detector dye in a system with a suspected leak. that way if it comes back, u can see exactly where its been leaking I buy small cans of freon that has dye added to it.. then use a fluorecent light to see the leak.,.
ive also seen systems leak, and then stop leaking . when they arent run for a long time, the seals can leak, then when they get lubed by the system circulated oil, the stop leaking,.
dont know abt nowdays, but vehicle manufacturers used to recommend u run the a/c every few months , summer or fall to keep the system lubricated.
Thank you great diagnostic video. Thumbs up
I wonder if this was a TV news plot to see if you're an honest mechanic. They drained the AC, unplugged the compressor and said the washer doesn't work. "If our reporter tries to convince the mechanic the car needs a compressor, will he replace it unnecessarily?"
I bet it’s leaking around the front ac clutch seal slowly. Honda’s ac compressor seems to come on as soon as you crack the can and the smallest amount of 134 enters the system. It’s not as hot now so even if it is low on 134 the customer wouldn’t notice it until next summer when it’s completely empty or the ac just isn’t ice cold ❄️
looked at jaguar x-type 2005 with not working washers the problem was that the person didn't know that washer was activated with the button on the end of the stalk instead of more conventional pull the stalk to activate the washers. Also the washer motor when not activated had power on both leads lucky that i noticed the icon on the stalk .
Time to purchase a micron gauge . Never had a Tif meter for refrigerant that was reliable for leak detection
I've never heard of anyone using a micron gauge for mobile ac. Not that it wouldn't be a good idea.
Brian Leeper most manufacturers want a 500 micron evacuation as only a good reference for complete evacuation
@@anthonysova7117 For stationary split systems, it's customary to use a micron gauge to verify a minimum 500 micron vacuum. That's after you pressurize with nitrogen to check for leaks under pressure.
Brian Leeper any refrigerant system like I said evacuation there was a time when manufacturers recommended using refrigerant to leak test
micron gauge on automotive LOL. maybe if the whole system is new or never opened, anything else will have endless off gassing and you'll never pull it that low ( maybe after weeks)
In this setup, an intermittent front washer no-spray could also be caused by a bad rear washer relay.
If it would be my car, I would just swap the two relays. For a customer, just swap it for a new one, while you're in there. Relays are cheap.
I cannot say the prior mechanic was scamming or just incorrect but it seems pretty clear he sucked the system and disconnected the compressor expecting that the customer would return for a compressor job.
My guess with the A/C complaint was customer took car to a shop for no A/C, charge was low. Shop evacuated and charged system, still didn't turn on due to connector being unplugged. Shop figured it needs a compressor, customer declines repair, shop evacuates their A/C charge from vehicle.
But A/C compressors don't unplug themselves!!
Good one ivan thank u sir👍
Prolly when you played with the relay it "fixed" a sketchy connection,
Watermelon "Little tree."
Sweet!
"Ever car's got one, you'll see!"
Miller from "Repo man."
I've had a few rigs pass the vacuum leak down test but as soon as you put the system under pressure the leak shows itself
Stationary AC systems are pressurized with nitrogen to check for leaks. No reason why that couldn't be done with mobile systems.
@@brianleeper5737 many shops have access to nitrogen for tire a ac testing but many don't. So the ones that don't and DIYer do what they can to diagnose the cause.
@@shaunadams3170 As I recall, a regulator for nitrogen tank is about $30 and the tank itself (smallest size) is about $70, as of a couple of years ago. Needed this for pressure testing the lines on a mini-split.
@@brianleeper5737 awesome I just do the work. I don't run the shop. I can't make that call
Had the same thing on my 98 Cherokee. Held a vacuum just fine, but still leaked down slowly when charged. Dye not showing anywhere. Watched a couple of videos where guys used compressed air and soap solution to test for leaks under pressure. Haven’t tried it yet tho.
I worked in auto parts for years and not AutoZone or advance just local independent ones back when you needed a ten foot area on the counter just for the catalogs, the counterman sometimes knew more than the mechanics, I became friends with a local garage owner and the mechanics and they were honest guys and various garages in town would help each other out if they had a real problem they couldn't resolve, this was back in the early nineties when computer systems on vehicles were fairly new and I remember them being stumped a number of times but in the end they always solved the problem, in the case of the AC especially seeing it unplugged makes it highly suspicious, you don't really need to use a lot of Colombo like research skills to know what happened.
Something is very fishy with that other shop...Definitely pulled that plug to sell a compressor. Guessing two hours+ labor for a compressor versus, what, less than one hour to check for leaks and a can of refrigerant.? Was the car brought in on a Friday and the shop wanted a late week payday..?
Really good Ivan thanks
The previous shop could have used UV dye to determine a small compressor leak. Ivan could checked without even filling the system.
How would he know if the other shop used UV dye or not? Guess?
@@buckhorncortez Use a UV light.
I think some automakers add UV dye at the factory. Pretty sure that Ford does, or once did.
As always great job..
Hey Ivan, what was the deal with that ABS failure code? You mentioned it when scanning for codes but never came back to it again.
ABS light wasn't on...not sure.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics On the 2006 Saab 93, spinning the wheels for too long due to being stuck in the snow will set an ABS/stability control code. Maybe it was something like that.
As always Ivan FTW
Level 60 mechanic : charging the AC on 2009 Acura with gauges set and freon cans..this is ART.cheers
My understanding was Acura is or at least was Japan country of origin, my 01 Isuzu Vi№ started with a J but half or almost half was golba GM transmission was GM but assembled in France, a/c compressor and alternator GM from the US break's all GM from here, delfi ECM, it was a serious mix of japanese and american, my 18 4runner is like all 4runners all japanese, only made in Japan
I liked ur wiper diag thought process....i smell a rat with the A/C! Btw, I finally got my diagun IV, dongle back that i left in a customer's car.
haha nice! The Launch is kick-ass!
You're gonna like it
The previous shop must have had a boat payment due. There are too many ripoff shops out there. I was a victim of several ripoffs in the past.
Same shyster mechanic would have put in a reman junk compressor, and then installed the old one to someone else.
Excellent Trouble Shooting
Wouldn't hurt to put 2 oz of PAG 46 if that's used, to keep compressor happy, especially if seeping at low point at compressor. As long as you add oil if it leaks oil, some systems can go many years. I have one 40 years old still going on an 89 buick, takes 1 12oz per /yr.
1989 wasn't 40 years ago because I'm not 52 years old yet.
Great video Ivan. u should dont the timing belt video on that too.
Thank you for this video great work Bill N LINY
How about the PAG oil for the system? If the refrigerant leaked out so could have the oil. With a low oil condition the compressor could burn up prematurely. I usually add half the stated oil capacity to the system just to be safe.
Good point. If there are oil stains, then yes. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it :)
compressor clutch relay is a very common problem
Sounds like a jack leg mechanic was there before you!
An anti-China bias against electrical parts sold by a Japanese car maker is irrational. China produces most of the high tech electronic parts and products. Japanese people have a centuries-old beef with China and would be more skeptical of quality than almost another country. Honda would not risk its brand quality over iffy pars. I'm also surprised that a relay that was working was replaced. That's using a parts cannon when there isn't a problem.
Hondas of that era have a known problem of relay sticking on, over pressure, and losing refrigerant through relief valve.
Hi Ivan, just a couple of quick questions. 1. My understanding is when recharging with a can of refrigerant the can should be upside down during the process to avoid the need to keep warming the can,, what is your thoughts? 2. Since it appears the system had a previous evacuation, and you did a full vaccum pull wouldn't the oil need to be replaced too? You might have done that off video or I'm wrong about it needing oil. Thanks for the great videos.
Great question Ross. No oil was removed from the system, and it was never opened up, so I didn't add any oil.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics does vacuuming the system remove any oil? The R2D2 systems can measure oil removed during purge and vacuum.
Tom Cartmel not always. Only with charged systems.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics thank you for replying.
I think someone on purpose drained the system out or it was just never topped up
Very informative video.
Half a can of AC oil should hv possibly went in to make the the 23 ounces
Seen washer bottle pump motors that only run in one direction .
Great video !