Been reading the comments and I think we are all tired of those quick fix videos all the big CZcamsrs are making with zero explaining except “from experience” lol. How about the new guys who want to learn but don’t have this experience. I don’t know how your channel has been under the radar for me for so long. Iv been trying to learn how to repair electronics from yt for a year now. This yt algorithm needs work as it only shows videos that have the most views. They should change that when it comes to educational videos. Again truly amazing work. My hat is off to you sir! Keep on doing what you’re doing!
Amazing works, thanks for the sharing. I just want to add that if the emmc is damaged it is always possible to create a new emmc with donor code. Of course you won't be able to play online and use cartridge but you still can install a picofly and get a working console.
Thank you for watching. I know the feeling what helped me was to focus on one specific electronic device for instance the switch when you focus on one item you get a lot of spare parts which will help to troubleshoot and understand the device much better. Gr. Jim
IM hard to impress but man i gotta say you do the most work ! you are doing more for new comers with youer methods then any other tech out there, Keep up the boss level skill broham and god bless !
An hour long video explaining everything in detail and giving values? Amazing work! Ty for all the time you put into this. Yes plz make one for the switch lite. Plz. I have one that is kicking my butt right now. Hopefully after watching this video fully, I can fix it and make my son happy lol. Liked and sub’d to the channel no brainer :). Ty again.
I feel the same way. How has this channel not come up on my search results? It truly is a blessing to have a guy who can put so much time and explaining everything in such detail.
This is probably the most in depth video that I've seen for the Nintendo Switch. I came here hoping to find any explanation as to how the power button / vol + - buttons work & troubleshooting measures that you can take if they aren't working. My switch power button isn't working but yet I can turn on the switch by pressing both vol +- together yet the only button on that flex cable that works is the +. I've installed multiple new cables & that didn't help. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Hi, Thank you for watching. Check if the connector has a connection with the ribbon cable, you can test it with an old ribbon cable and scrape away the mask and measure the pin's of the connector with the copper traces on the ribbon cable. Check for missing components or voltages on the power button traces. The datalines almost goes directly to the APU. I have a video about the buttons in Nintendo Switch Lite. The concept is the same. czcams.com/video/AO0ziOuf99U/video.html
Thanks for a great video! Three quick questions: 1) When checking Diode measurements, positive VOM lead to ground and negative VOM lead to pad being tested, correct? 2) Remove the mother board from switch, correct? 3) Remove battery from motherboard connection, correct? Thanks in advance....
Hi, 1 - Diode mode is indeed correct, black probe on the multimeter goes to the measurered component. Red probe to ground. 2 - Removing motherboard i will only do if you want to measure both sides of the mainboard. 3 - is correct always measure without power or battery. Gr. Jim
So... on 21:08, the filter on the right most side, the last pair of pads give me no continuity. Also, the only "Unusual" short, I get, is the one on the capacitor you point at in the same video. (Still didn't remove P13, I need to buy one)
Hi replace that filter there must be continuity, the shorted capacitor first remove PI3USB to see if short is gone, if short still exist then you have to inject a voltage to check which component get's hot, if the APU get's hot it is game over. Gr. Jim
Hey man, first of all, amazing video. it has helped me a lot trying to diagnose this broken Nintendo switch. One problem though. I seem to be getting the switch boothing up and stops at 2nd boot. Because it shows 0.2A at first and then 0.4-0.5A. The backlight is turning on but the screen itself isn't. I used my multimeter to check around the LCD display driver and ever since one looked fine except the resistor that's supposed to give you 1.48 and the capacitor that's supposed to give you 1.640. Which that whole line is supposed to be connected so it should give me the same reading. Which it does.... but the reading is 0L They both give me 0L, and no its not grounded, its just not reading anything. Ive been trying to look around to try and find any documentation online that could help me resort this but i cant. I cant find anything that could be related to that cap. Any help? thanks!
Hi i seems to me that it is most likely that you have a bad Emmc module, because 0.45 amp is a typical behaviour. You already changed the LCD driver and backlight also works. Maybe the switch is in RCM mode if yes then u have a donor switch :(. Gr. Jim
Best documented video I have seen online! I did fix a switch yesterday with the info in your video. Is there a possibilty to share the boardview you show?
Thank you for liking the video. I don't have the boardview but only the screenshots in the video. You can buy the boardview in China but i don't trust the supplier. Gr. Jim
This video is great, but if I have one complaint, it's that it ultimately leads you to a dead end. I have a bunch of shorts on caps around the max chips and because it's not a dead short, I can't inject voltage to find what's causing the short. All my diode and tesistance readings are off, but what do I do on response to those readings being off? This video just kind of leads you down the trail and abandons you.
Hi thanks for watching, yeah i can't document everything these are just the most common faults based on experience don't forget there are no schematics which makes repairing hard and also explaining it. Gr. Jim
Great Video. Love how u explain almost all the components. I do have a broken switch with shorted 3,3v line. maybe i will find the short after this video. Thank you 👌
Great video. I'll recommend this video and your channel to other repair channels. Upload more board repair regularly; also I think Nintendo switch and consoles are very popular.
Hi, thank you for your reply. I will do my best. These videos take a long time to make. New video about Nintendo switch and joy con repair will be added soon. But first i have to edit a ps5 power supply video. Gr. Jim
What an amazing video! Thanks for taking the time to build this content! Any suggestions on where to start with a switch that will only display to a TV if you have a (soccer ball size) fan blowing on the switch while in the dock? Assume it's an overheating issue, just surprised it happens so fast (used to be intermittent)
Hi, i would first check if the thermal paste is ok. If it still happens there can be a component that is failing maybe PI3USB is failing as it is responsible for the HDMI signal to your dock. Gr. Jim
Could you please make a video on how to inspect Nintendo Switch Lite's MOSFETs for shorts? For example, I got a Switch Lite, 5V (using USB meter) goes through the first MOSFET, but the second one only has a few mV and everything else after that is dead. 0A is being drawn, I've replaced the first MOSFET and the second one, and it's still a problem. Your video could help me understand how I can tell whether that MOSFET is shorted or if the problem lies anywhere else.
Hi thank you for watching. Set the Multimeter to Diode Test Mode. Check Gate to Source junction, Check Drain to Source junction, Check Gate to Drain junction there should not be a low resistance or a beep. These are basic tests more in info about how to probe it check the internet. Gr. Jim
Hi, awesome video! I get the 1 + 2 boot voltages but not the 2 boot ones. both MAX77621 don't put out 0.8V. I saw you had the same problem in you demo but I don't think you gave the answer for that one.
Hi, if you don't have any shorts or deviating diode measurement's then you could try to replace the MAX ic's or M92, BQ IC if it has the same behaviour then the eMMc is faulty. In my case i got a current draw of 48mA and that tells me that the eMMc is dead and not fixable. Thanks for watching. Gr. Jim
Does anyone know if the audio ic is married to the board? I bought a cheap switch from ebay, identified and cleared all shorts (audio ic and m92) and also replaced the LCD FPS. I was so excited that the board wasn't drawing any current until I tested it and got the blue screen of death. No wonder it was being sold so cheap :(. I'm not familiar with the BSOD, could I have caused it? Also, most of this was possible thanks to your videos. Thank you.
Hi thank you for your nice feedback. The audio ic is not married to the board. I also had some cheap switches in the past with blue screen of death but that is how we learn as we go if the user did not reflow or tried to repair it then your chance of fixing it got higher. Again good luck. Gr. Jim
hello, this gave me courage to repair my switch. What IC do you think i should focus on? I have a workig switch which only charges one way and doesn't dock / output from tv.
Hi thank you for watching. Pls check if usb c port all pins are connected. Then check m92t36 ic this ic can cause one side charging fault. Check for shorts. Check for shorts on the pi3usb ic. If all ok i would start replacing the m93t36 ic. If you have a usbc amp meter try to see if it jumps to 15 volt for charging if not then the ic is faulty. Gr. Jim
apologies if this was covered and marked but i couldnt find it. any knowledge on how to fix bluetooth? i bought an OG version of the switch for modding purposes, and everything except bluetooth works. i have to use an ethernet cable at all times and cant use wireless controllers
Thank you for watching, i would check reflow / replace the wifi ic if you can't find missing / damages components near the wifi chip. This wifi/bluetooth chip is the main chip the data lines of this chip goes directly to the APU. Gr. Jim
Hi one end of a capacitor will go to ground and the other end will be a powerrail if that one is shorted less then 10 ohm then i would inject 0,8V with 1Amp at that location and see which components is getting hot. Gr. Jim
Amazing video and thank you very much for the knowledge you share! I have 2 questions. Can a switch boot if you remove the wifi ic completely from the board? And one last thing. If you get random disconnections and reconnections when you have plugged in the nintendo charger to the console and the charging port is ok, do you think that the problem is the bq24193 or the m92t36 chip? Has this happened to you before? Thanks!
Thank you for watching. I don't think the switch will boot without the wifi ic because you can get a orange screen of death when not all solder balls are making a connection with the Wifi IC. Random disconnections i would suggest to start replacing m92t36 this is the ic that fails more often then the BQ ic. Success. Gr. Jim
Hi. first of all I wanted to thank you for your work with which I managed to save quite a few nintendo switches. I would like to ask you a few questions because I find myself with quite a few consoles which block at boot stage 1, with a consumption of 200mA and never go above. from the table it seems to be a cpu/ram/emmc problem. the console is not in rcm. Could it come from other things when we have 200mA? what happens when a max77620 fails? what happens when a max77621 fails? thanks for your help
Hi thank you for this nice feedback, 200mA is hard to troubleshoot it could be M92 or a MAX IC, but if you can't find any shorts or deviating diode measurement changes are high it is the eMMc or CPU/RAM in that case you could try a reball but it takes a lot of time and success rate is low. Gr. Jim
Hi no it's is not possible maybe if you have a copy of the emmc software if not it is game over. There are some methods but for me it is to much work. Gr. Jim
I HAVE A SWITCH THAT STOCKS IN THE FIRST BOOT STAGE WITH 135mA-145-mA I replaced the max77812 no change no voltages on the surrounding caps and coils then I measured the voltages on the max77620 all the voltages are here then I also replaced this max ic no change what else could be the problem that the current draw is too low in the first boot phase? 3.3V is also good
Hi, normally a failed eMMC will be stuck round 0.45mA you have a higher current do you have a thermal camera try to find a hotspot. Usually M92 or PI3USB IC could also be faulty. Gr. Jim
Hi@@enteranon3342 if did not read your comment correctly, You have indeed a lower amperage, in the first stage boot the M92T36, Charging IC, 3.3V regulator, MAX IC, Fuel Gauge IC and eMMC is checked. If one of those IC is not working correctly it will not go to the second stage check those circuits for shorts or deviating diode reading. Gr. Jim
Señor una pregunta, los condensadores SP1 y Sp2 si se dañan cual es su valor para reemplazarlos, existen esos capacitores genericos o solo se puedes extraer de una tarjeta madre donante???🤠👍🏻
Hola, lo mejor es tener una placa base donante para poder conseguirlas desde allí. Lamentablemente no hay esquemas para encontrar los valores. Gramo. Jim
Hello. I have a weird v2 now. The console can use wifi but no bkuetooth. I have changed 2 wifi ic but the same. Do you know aside from wifi ic any components can cause this issue. Thabk.
Hi, if you replaced the wifi please ensure the wifi is reflowed 100%. If wifi is working and bluetooth not, i would check for missing / broken or diviating diode measurents on the surrounding components. I don't think the problem is with the APU as there are data lines going from the WIFI IC and the APU and wifi is working. Gr. Jim
Impressive work! I am just wondering if you can give me a hint: My son OLED does not output sound to the speaker. It always shows that is connected tot he headset, but no headset is inserted. I have no sound also on HDMI. Tried another SD/card/jack board and the same. Tried another set of speakers, the same. The only way I can get it to output some sound thru the speakers is inserting the jack in the headphones plug. Then the switch will rapidly switch between speakers and headphones and output fractions of sound to the spears and headphones, intermittent. Any ideea what should I do?
Hi, if you do not see any missing components near the connectors and if all solder joints and pins are ok i would reflow the audio chip / replace it or check the solder joints, missing / damaged components near the audio chip. Gr. Jim
Super guide. My NS had backlight off. I try with another lcd kit but no turn on. I can see some image with a torch on display. With hdmi all ok. Can you help me pls? On backlight connector on mainboard I have p1 0V - p2 4V - p3 0V - 4p 0V. Thanks very much!
Hi Thank you for watching. Please check this video czcams.com/video/4hqBwFg5zv0/video.html Also when your brightness settings is 100% then on pin 2 there will be +- 17V (max brightness LCD screen) check if there is voltage present and changes if you change your settings. Also check if you can see a PWM signal on the Backlight IC. I think your backlight IC is broken as you already tested is with a new LCD screen. Happy troubleshooting! Gr. Jim
Thanks for the video. Would you help me? My Max77620 does not generate the 1.3v voltage, I have already changed it twice and the problem continues. When injecting 1v into the VDD_CPU1v0 and VDD_CPU1v1 lines I have a low consumption value with the supply regulated at around 30ma. Could this indicate a CPU defect? In the continuity test the line is open between the large coil on the left side of the max77620 and the NC component on the top of the max77620 which should output 1.3v. I'm not sure if I can have several bad Max 77620s in stock or if the defect is in the CPU. Thanks
Hi this is a hard one, These powerrails goes to the APU so the resistance is low. These powerrails will only be generated if all checks are ok. So the hardware and software checks on emmc must be ok. In my experience it was due to bad emmc memory and could not fix it. Gr. Jim
Hi, u can check if you have a thermal issue, check thermal paste or replace it. If it still happens the primary or secundary MAX IC could be faulty or even wors a RAM /eMMc module is failing. These kind of problems are hard to diagnose. Gr. Jim
Thank you for Amazing video. Can i give you a question? I have a switch that if Power Is off charge the battery at 15v with original charger, but of i connect the charger when the console Is in home, the console don't charge. I have replace m92 and bq integrate but nothing change. The value of bq are right. Do you have any idea or solution? Thank you so much 🙏
@@fixmyappjim Thanks for your help. I try to change the fuel gauge. Another question, if i want measure the voltage on the caps near the m92, the board must be on the First stage of boot, second stage of boot or Is It enough that the board are connected with the originale charger?
@@Hamlet0081 Hi M92 is for power negotitation when a USB cable this case a usb charger is connected. you can measure the voltages when the usb charger is connected. More detail info you can see the video: czcams.com/video/cYYgCPB60UY/video.html
I charged the switch with a non-original charger and burned the charging socket, the socket was replaced but the joy con does not charge, where to look for the problem?
Hi, Please check if it is really a short because some capacitors have a very low impendance resistance. The resistance could be +- 60 ohm to 310 ohms. Some capacitors have a resistance of +1 kohms. If you get a shorts on both sides like 0.6 ohm then you have a dead short. You can use voltage injection to see which components get hot.
Hello ! Merci pour tes vidéo que je viens de découvrir mais j'ai une SL qui surchauffe, j'ai changé le fan mais en vain, ça ne tourne toujours pas. Aurait tu une idée à me conseillé stp ?
Salut, merci pour vos commentaires. Essayez de suivre les lignes de données du ventilateur et voyez s'il y a un numérique PWM sur une broche ainsi que la tension du ventilateur. Vérifiez les composants sur ces lignes. PWM finira par aller à votre APU. Gr. Jim
@@chronossgames1536 Il n’existe aucun schéma Nintendo Switch accessible au public. Ces informations proviennent des conseils de donateurs pour enquêter. Gr. Jim
Hi, maybe the charging circuit works and is charging the battery. When there is no battery connected then 150mA is not normal it should be less then 10mA. Gr. Jim
Hi, i don't have it but i will be releasing the diode measurements video about the Nintendo Switch Lite soon which can help diagnosing the problem. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjimCould you please clear my doubts, in some voltages the values I have are 100, 200 more in the resistance part than yours, can you consider a margin of error, or is it something abnormal? At other points I have almost 1000 difference in resistance
@@leandrooliveira9137 Hi +- 100 ohms margin depends on what you are measuring. Low impedance line will have low resistance so a change 100 ohm change can be important to check. 100 ohm margin in a resistor is not bad. Also multimeters can give different values. 1000 ohm can be a indication that you have to investigate the circuit. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim close to the ci M92T36 in that row of 3 capacitors, the first 2 I have 1200ohms in each, and the device does not turn on, and when you insert the chip the light pulse turns blue and then flashes a semi-yellow color, then another question would be, By removing this M92T36 would this value have to go out or without the ci and normal would it have no value?
My switch can not connect to pc. My usb c port is good i even changed 2 of them but the same issue remain. Is the piusb chip reponsibke for tranfering data friend? Im planning to change it to see if it works
Hi i would try to replace the M92T36 power delivery ic that is a cause of alot of charging / usb problems. PI3USB is for transmitting the hdmi signal to your nintendo dock. Gr. jim
@@fixmyappjim yeah i know. Mine is a modded one. I bought this one as a dead switch. I repaired and modded it but the only issue is it can not connect to pc via mass usb storage.
@@bison5396 Ok now i understand. Yeah i would start witch replacing the m92T36 ic. Did you measure that all usb pin's are making a connection with the pads? Gr. Jim
At 20:10 you say that if that cap is shorted when the IC is removed, it's the SOC that's likely dead. When my M92 is removed the short is gone, but it comes back even when I put a known working M92 back on. Is it still the SOC or something else?
Basically, what I've got going on is I got a switch and when I plugged it in, it drew no power at all. The cap in your video that I referenced in my previous comment was shorted but none of the other ones were. So I changed it for a brand new M92 and now I get 14v, .46A draw but it just stays there and never drops. Unit still does not turn on, but I guess drawing voltage is a step in the right direction. I suspect it could be the MAX77620 ic since some of the caps around that chip appear to be shorted, but I need to find out 100% before messing around with BGA. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.
Hi you are getting 14V so that means power negotiation with the M92 IC is working. 0.46A is in my case most of the time a eMMc fault, but to be certain i would test the phase 1 boot with and without battery to check the current. If all voltages on the max ic are present when you press the power button then it is a faulty eMMc. Gr. Jim@@temporaryscars
@@fixmyappjimis that the MAX77620A IC? Funny you should mention that. I noticed with the mm on continuity I was getting some caps shorted to ground. I'll have to double check if they're dead shorts to ground or not but I suspect the IC might be faulty. Btw, thank you for this video! It has been immensely helpful.
@fixmyappjim yeah, not getting voltages on V6 what-so-ever. I only have a battery, a USB-C cord and power button hooked up, but at now time so I get the 1.05v needed for the first boot.
V6 can have 1V or nothing this is normal, this will not prevent it from booting @temporaryscars . I think it is the eMMC if you can't find shorts or deviating diode measurements. Gr. Jim
To be clear all the credits for the MAX77620 information are for Retrosix for more info check his website: www.retrosix.wiki
Been reading the comments and I think we are all tired of those quick fix videos all the big CZcamsrs are making with zero explaining except “from experience” lol. How about the new guys who want to learn but don’t have this experience. I don’t know how your channel has been under the radar for me for so long. Iv been trying to learn how to repair electronics from yt for a year now. This yt algorithm needs work as it only shows videos that have the most views. They should change that when it comes to educational videos. Again truly amazing work. My hat is off to you sir! Keep on doing what you’re doing!
Thank you so much, this type of reaction keeps me motivated to produce more video's. Thank! Gr. Jim
Same I have broken about2 nintendo switch V1 and oled
Amazing works, thanks for the sharing. I just want to add that if the emmc is damaged it is always possible to create a new emmc with donor code. Of course you won't be able to play online and use cartridge but you still can install a picofly and get a working console.
Thank you for this information! I do not have the experience in installing and configurating a picofly :) Gr. Jim
We need video like this for Nintendo switch lite ❤❤❤
Hi, it is on my to do list. Gr. Jim
Yes plzzzzzz.
what about oled? lol 12 years later
you're exceptionally good at covering everything necessary. great work!
Thank you very much for this kind feedback. Gr. Jim
Waiting for the OLED version. Amazing video. Thank you for sharing!
Wish I had more time to take apart laptops, PCs, troubleshoot and repair them! I have time to look and find such things, but not much time to tinker!
Thank you for watching. I know the feeling what helped me was to focus on one specific electronic device for instance the switch when you focus on one item you get a lot of spare parts which will help to troubleshoot and understand the device much better. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim I spend time watching other repair videos, and that helps with steps and conclusions! Welcome!
IM hard to impress but man i gotta say you do the most work ! you are doing more for new comers with youer methods then any other tech out there, Keep up the boss level skill broham and god bless !
Thank you very much for this feedback. Gr. Jim
I’ve fixed these they’re pretty easy once you get familiar
Indeed you just have to try and if you fail try again you will only get better in diagnosing. Gr. Jim
One of the best ad more detailed videso I have found. I'm a newbie and I have learned a lot just watching this video.Thank You
Thank you for your nice feedback! Gr. Jim
Thanks for detailed contents! I really appreciate it. With these measuring values, now I can tell which component can be possibly faulty on the board.
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
Outstanding video. Please make repair videos with this style. Subscribed.
Thank you for your reply. I will take this feedback. This type of videos take a while to make but i will make new videos in this style. Thx. Gr. Jim
An hour long video explaining everything in detail and giving values? Amazing work! Ty for all the time you put into this. Yes plz make one for the switch lite. Plz. I have one that is kicking my butt right now. Hopefully after watching this video fully, I can fix it and make my son happy lol. Liked and sub’d to the channel no brainer :). Ty again.
Cool video. Only the emmc and nividia cpu are connected. I know this because I swapped this two components on a another bord and it works.
Hi thank you for the feedback i thought the anti piracy ic was also married to the board, learned something new. Thank you. Gr. Jim
Absolutely incredible video. Thank you so much for making this!
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
Dude this is a blessing. Thank you for this. I’ll be using it for my mobo repairs in the shop
Hi nice to hear that the video was educational. Spoiler alert soon there will be a new repair guide released. It is still in the development. Gr. Jim
I feel the same way. How has this channel not come up on my search results? It truly is a blessing to have a guy who can put so much time and explaining everything in such detail.
This is probably the most in depth video that I've seen for the Nintendo Switch. I came here hoping to find any explanation as to how the power button / vol + - buttons work & troubleshooting measures that you can take if they aren't working. My switch power button isn't working but yet I can turn on the switch by pressing both vol +- together yet the only button on that flex cable that works is the +. I've installed multiple new cables & that didn't help. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Hi, Thank you for watching. Check if the connector has a connection with the ribbon cable, you can test it with an old ribbon cable and scrape away the mask and measure the pin's of the connector with the copper traces on the ribbon cable. Check for missing components or voltages on the power button traces. The datalines almost goes directly to the APU. I have a video about the buttons in Nintendo Switch Lite. The concept is the same. czcams.com/video/AO0ziOuf99U/video.html
Thank you for sharing that. I'll give that a shot & look at your other video. 😊
Thanks for a great video! Three quick questions: 1) When checking Diode measurements, positive VOM lead to ground and negative VOM lead to pad being tested, correct? 2) Remove the mother board from switch, correct? 3) Remove battery from motherboard connection, correct? Thanks in advance....
Hi, 1 - Diode mode is indeed correct, black probe on the multimeter goes to the measurered component. Red probe to ground. 2 - Removing motherboard i will only do if you want to measure both sides of the mainboard. 3 - is correct always measure without power or battery. Gr. Jim
Impressive !
You are really good, one of the best in the category. Keep it up. Thank you and Congratulations!
Please more videos.
Hi will do my best to make more of these video's, thank you for watching! Gr. Jim
Great in-depth video. Can you please make one for switch lite?
Thank you for your feedback. Nintendo switch lite is on the to-do list it will take some time. Gr. Jim
Excellent video. I really like that you go in depth and provide a detailed explanation. Much appreciated. Subbed!
Thank you for your kind reply.
So... on 21:08, the filter on the right most side, the last pair of pads give me no continuity.
Also, the only "Unusual" short, I get, is the one on the capacitor you point at in the same video. (Still didn't remove P13, I need to buy one)
Hi replace that filter there must be continuity, the shorted capacitor first remove PI3USB to see if short is gone, if short still exist then you have to inject a voltage to check which component get's hot, if the APU get's hot it is game over. Gr. Jim
Thanks a lot for the content. You missed mentioning the problem with the cooler's diode, which causes the controls not to charge the battery.
Thank you for your information. That i did not know. Gr. Jim
W video you should add affilate links to the stuff you use. I need the usb c amp meter
Hi you can find it on aliexpress search on Type-C USB Tester Current. Maybe in the future i will add all my gear in the description. Thx. Gr. Jim
Amazing video. Takes all the various repair videos and puts them in one place. Also helped me better understand the circuitry of the Switch
Thank you very much i'm glad it helped you get more knowledge about the Switch. Gr. Jim
Hey man, first of all, amazing video. it has helped me a lot trying to diagnose this broken Nintendo switch. One problem though. I seem to be getting the switch boothing up and stops at 2nd boot. Because it shows 0.2A at first and then 0.4-0.5A. The backlight is turning on but the screen itself isn't.
I used my multimeter to check around the LCD display driver and ever since one looked fine except the resistor that's supposed to give you 1.48 and the capacitor that's supposed to give you 1.640. Which that whole line is supposed to be connected so it should give me the same reading. Which it does.... but the reading is 0L
They both give me 0L, and no its not grounded, its just not reading anything. Ive been trying to look around to try and find any documentation online that could help me resort this but i cant. I cant find anything that could be related to that cap. Any help? thanks!
forgot to mention, yes i replaced the chip with a known good donor board. But that did not fix the issue.
Hi i seems to me that it is most likely that you have a bad Emmc module, because 0.45 amp is a typical behaviour. You already changed the LCD driver and backlight also works. Maybe the switch is in RCM mode if yes then u have a donor switch :(. Gr. Jim
So happy i found this video. Great details! I have 2 switches stuck in 1st stage boot and i couldnt figure out what to do next. Now i do!
Hi, Good to know it helped you out that was the purpose of the video. Thank you for your reply. Gr. Jim
Best documented video I have seen online! I did fix a switch yesterday with the info in your video.
Is there a possibilty to share the boardview you show?
Thank you for liking the video. I don't have the boardview but only the screenshots in the video. You can buy the boardview in China but i don't trust the supplier. Gr. Jim
This video is great, but if I have one complaint, it's that it ultimately leads you to a dead end. I have a bunch of shorts on caps around the max chips and because it's not a dead short, I can't inject voltage to find what's causing the short. All my diode and tesistance readings are off, but what do I do on response to those readings being off? This video just kind of leads you down the trail and abandons you.
Hi thanks for watching, yeah i can't document everything these are just the most common faults based on experience don't forget there are no schematics which makes repairing hard and also explaining it. Gr. Jim
Gracias!!!...excelente video muy buena información!
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
excellent thank you
Thank you for watching. Gr. jim
Great Video. Love how u explain almost all the components. I do have a broken switch with shorted 3,3v line. maybe i will find the short after this video. Thank you 👌
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
Great video. I'll recommend this video and your channel to other repair channels.
Upload more board repair regularly; also I think Nintendo switch and consoles are very popular.
Hi, thank you for your reply. I will do my best. These videos take a long time to make.
New video about Nintendo switch and joy con repair will be added soon. But first i have to edit a ps5 power supply video. Gr. Jim
Love this video!!!! This is a wealth of info,thank you!!
Thank you :) Gr. Jim
What an amazing video! Thanks for taking the time to build this content! Any suggestions on where to start with a switch that will only display to a TV if you have a (soccer ball size) fan blowing on the switch while in the dock? Assume it's an overheating issue, just surprised it happens so fast (used to be intermittent)
Hi, i would first check if the thermal paste is ok. If it still happens there can be a component that is failing maybe PI3USB is failing as it is responsible for the HDMI signal to your dock. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim thanks for the response. the thermal paste seems ok...maybe a little dry. I'll poke around at the IC you suggested. Thank you again!
You are a God!!! Love your effort brother!!! Made my day ❤❤
Thank you for watching. Gr. JIm
Could you please make a video on how to inspect Nintendo Switch Lite's MOSFETs for shorts? For example, I got a Switch Lite, 5V (using USB meter) goes through the first MOSFET, but the second one only has a few mV and everything else after that is dead. 0A is being drawn, I've replaced the first MOSFET and the second one, and it's still a problem. Your video could help me understand how I can tell whether that MOSFET is shorted or if the problem lies anywhere else.
Hi thank you for watching. Set the Multimeter to Diode Test Mode. Check Gate to Source junction, Check Drain to Source junction, Check Gate to Drain junction there should not be a low resistance or a beep. These are basic tests more in info about how to probe it check the internet. Gr. Jim
BIG Respect! Thank you.
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
Hi, awesome video! I get the 1 + 2 boot voltages but not the 2 boot ones. both MAX77621 don't put out 0.8V. I saw you had the same problem in you demo but I don't think you gave the answer for that one.
Hi, if you don't have any shorts or deviating diode measurement's then you could try to replace the MAX ic's or M92, BQ IC if it has the same behaviour then the eMMc is faulty. In my case i got a current draw of 48mA and that tells me that the eMMc is dead and not fixable. Thanks for watching. Gr. Jim
Gran trabajo con esta es la mejor guía de reparación de todo CZcams
Gracias! Gr. Jim
Thank you! I've been needing this knowledge for a long time
Thank you for your nice reply. Gr. Jim
Does anyone know if the audio ic is married to the board? I bought a cheap switch from ebay, identified and cleared all shorts (audio ic and m92) and also replaced the LCD FPS. I was so excited that the board wasn't drawing any current until I tested it and got the blue screen of death. No wonder it was being sold so cheap :(. I'm not familiar with the BSOD, could I have caused it?
Also, most of this was possible thanks to your videos. Thank you.
Hi thank you for your nice feedback. The audio ic is not married to the board. I also had some cheap switches in the past with blue screen of death but that is how we learn as we go if the user did not reflow or tried to repair it then your chance of fixing it got higher. Again good luck. Gr. Jim
Any video about WiFi ic area , mi problem is in this area , or diode values please
Please check this video: czcams.com/video/ak9QKYUKcT8/video.html
Brilliant, thank you.
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
Fantastic. Excellent work.
Hi, i'm glad you liked the content. Gr. Jim
hello, this gave me courage to repair my switch. What IC do you think i should focus on? I have a workig switch which only charges one way and doesn't dock / output from tv.
if i have a diode reading different from the chart is that the IC i should replace or need to confirm if there are shorted capacitor
Hi thank you for watching. Pls check if usb c port all pins are connected. Then check m92t36 ic this ic can cause one side charging fault. Check for shorts. Check for shorts on the pi3usb ic. If all ok i would start replacing the m93t36 ic. If you have a usbc amp meter try to see if it jumps to 15 volt for charging if not then the ic is faulty. Gr. Jim
Great work thx.
I'm glad you liked it, thank you. Gr. Jim
apologies if this was covered and marked but i couldnt find it. any knowledge on how to fix bluetooth? i bought an OG version of the switch for modding purposes, and everything except bluetooth works. i have to use an ethernet cable at all times and cant use wireless controllers
Thank you for watching, i would check reflow / replace the wifi ic if you can't find missing / damages components near the wifi chip. This wifi/bluetooth chip is the main chip the data lines of this chip goes directly to the APU. Gr. Jim
Very helpful video, thank you!
Thank you. Gr. Jim
best video on the topic! thanks :)
Wow. Great work
thank you for this great work, can you please share this pdf or ppt file ?
Thank you, i will make a pdf of the presentation and upload it. Will inform you all when it is uploaden. Thanks for your feedback
muchas gracias por tu video!! me ayudo demasiado. like y suscrito a tu canal con mucho gusto :D
Gracias :)
how can i get this boardview my friend ? Amazing job !
Thank you. Boardview can be bought from China but the pricing is very high. You can Google it. Gr. Jim
32:44 - I have a short here, where would be a good place to inject voltage to find the shorted component?
Hi one end of a capacitor will go to ground and the other end will be a powerrail if that one is shorted less then 10 ohm then i would inject 0,8V with 1Amp at that location and see which components is getting hot. Gr. Jim
Beautiful :) new sub
Thank you. Gr. Jim
Thank you❤
ممتاز، أنت الأفضل
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
great video, subbed and liked! hope you continue to make great content
I'm glad you liked it. Gr. Jim
Amazing video and thank you very much for the knowledge you share! I have 2 questions. Can a switch boot if you remove the wifi ic completely from the board? And one last thing. If you get random disconnections and reconnections when you have plugged in the nintendo charger to the console and the charging port is ok, do you think that the problem is the bq24193 or the m92t36 chip? Has this happened to you before? Thanks!
Thank you for watching. I don't think the switch will boot without the wifi ic because you can get a orange screen of death when not all solder balls are making a connection with the Wifi IC. Random disconnections i would suggest to start replacing m92t36 this is the ic that fails more often then the BQ ic. Success. Gr. Jim
Hi. first of all I wanted to thank you for your work with which I managed to save quite a few nintendo switches. I would like to ask you a few questions because I find myself with quite a few consoles which block at boot stage 1, with a consumption of 200mA and never go above. from the table it seems to be a cpu/ram/emmc problem. the console is not in rcm. Could it come from other things when we have 200mA? what happens when a max77620 fails? what happens when a max77621 fails? thanks for your help
Hi thank you for this nice feedback, 200mA is hard to troubleshoot it could be M92 or a MAX IC, but if you can't find any shorts or deviating diode measurement changes are high it is the eMMc or CPU/RAM in that case you could try a reball but it takes a lot of time and success rate is low. Gr. Jim
Buen video puedes hacer uno con Nintendo Switch Litte
Hi i will try to make a Nintendo Switch Lite video in the future. Gr. Jim
if only emmc is dead or Data corruption and all other component all good there is a way to unbrick？
Hi no it's is not possible maybe if you have a copy of the emmc software if not it is game over. There are some methods but for me it is to much work. Gr. Jim
I HAVE A SWITCH THAT STOCKS IN THE FIRST BOOT STAGE WITH 135mA-145-mA I replaced the max77812 no change no voltages on the surrounding caps and coils then I measured the voltages on the max77620 all the voltages are here then I also replaced this max ic no change what else could be the problem that the current draw is too low in the first boot phase? 3.3V is also good
Hi, normally a failed eMMC will be stuck round 0.45mA you have a higher current do you have a thermal camera try to find a hotspot. Usually M92 or PI3USB IC could also be faulty. Gr. Jim
Yes, you mean the charging current, I mean the first boot phase without battery 0.135A-0.145A
@@fixmyappjim
Hi@@enteranon3342 if did not read your comment correctly, You have indeed a lower amperage, in the first stage boot the M92T36, Charging IC, 3.3V regulator, MAX IC, Fuel Gauge IC and eMMC is checked. If one of those IC is not working correctly it will not go to the second stage check those circuits for shorts or deviating diode reading. Gr. Jim
thnks a lot.. can u fix hang on nintendo 2ndboot display logo?
It can be the M92T36 - power delivery chip that can be cause this. You can try to replace that.
Señor una pregunta, los condensadores SP1 y Sp2 si se dañan cual es su valor para reemplazarlos, existen esos capacitores genericos o solo se puedes extraer de una tarjeta madre donante???🤠👍🏻
Hola, lo mejor es tener una placa base donante para poder conseguirlas desde allí. Lamentablemente no hay esquemas para encontrar los valores. Gramo. Jim
Thank U Sr.✌🏻
Schematic and boardview file es available??
Hi there are only paid software from a chinese supplier, these are to free to download. Gr. Jim
Great video! Will you have a video like this about the OLED any time soon?
Most information is also the same for the oled version. If i get a oled version i will make an update version but not soon. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim i hope you get soon bro, my OLED is not charging anymore :(
Not charging is most of the time a faulty USB connector or a faulty M92T36 power delivery IC or the charging BQ IC. @@juscelino2253
Hello. I have a weird v2 now. The console can use wifi but no bkuetooth. I have changed 2 wifi ic but the same. Do you know aside from wifi ic any components can cause this issue. Thabk.
Hi, if you replaced the wifi please ensure the wifi is reflowed 100%. If wifi is working and bluetooth not, i would check for missing / broken or diviating diode measurents on the surrounding components. I don't think the problem is with the APU as there are data lines going from the WIFI IC and the APU and wifi is working. Gr. Jim
Impressive work!
I am just wondering if you can give me a hint:
My son OLED does not output sound to the speaker. It always shows that is connected tot he headset, but no headset is inserted. I have no sound also on HDMI. Tried another SD/card/jack board and the same. Tried another set of speakers, the same. The only way I can get it to output some sound thru the speakers is inserting the jack in the headphones plug. Then the switch will rapidly switch between speakers and headphones and output fractions of sound to the spears and headphones, intermittent.
Any ideea what should I do?
Hi, if you do not see any missing components near the connectors and if all solder joints and pins are ok i would reflow the audio chip / replace it or check the solder joints, missing / damaged components near the audio chip. Gr. Jim
Can you do this with the oled console?
Hi if i repair a oled console i will make an updated version of this guide. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim thank you!
Tks sir
Super guide. My NS had backlight off. I try with another lcd kit but no turn on. I can see some image with a torch on display. With hdmi all ok. Can you help me pls? On backlight connector on mainboard I have p1 0V - p2 4V - p3 0V - 4p 0V. Thanks very much!
Hi Thank you for watching. Please check this video czcams.com/video/4hqBwFg5zv0/video.html
Also when your brightness settings is 100% then on pin 2 there will be +- 17V (max brightness LCD screen) check if there is voltage present and changes if you change your settings. Also check if you can see a PWM signal on the Backlight IC. I think your backlight IC is broken as you already tested is with a new LCD screen. Happy troubleshooting! Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim Thanks! I cant change brightness because i cant see nothing on lcd, i try with new ic. I let you know, Thanks very much
@@fixmyappjim i only reflow the bga tps61163a and all working! Thanks very much!
@@grabryx Good to know that you found the cause :) Gr. Jim
Thanks for the video.
Would you help me? My Max77620 does not generate the 1.3v voltage, I have already changed it twice and the problem continues. When injecting 1v into the VDD_CPU1v0 and VDD_CPU1v1 lines I have a low consumption value with the supply regulated at around 30ma.
Could this indicate a CPU defect? In the continuity test the line is open between the large coil on the left side of the max77620 and the NC component on the top of the max77620 which should output 1.3v. I'm not sure if I can have several bad Max 77620s in stock or if the defect is in the CPU. Thanks
Hi this is a hard one, These powerrails goes to the APU so the resistance is low. These powerrails will only be generated if all checks are ok. So the hardware and software checks on emmc must be ok. In my experience it was due to bad emmc memory and could not fix it. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim thanks brother ❤️
Hi sir, i have nintendo oled but it restart about 30 mins. Can you tell me how can i repair it :(
Hi, u can check if you have a thermal issue, check thermal paste or replace it. If it still happens the primary or secundary MAX IC could be faulty or even wors a RAM /eMMc module is failing. These kind of problems are hard to diagnose. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim thank you very much sir, i will try diagonse what you say
Thank you for Amazing video. Can i give you a question? I have a switch that if Power Is off charge the battery at 15v with original charger, but of i connect the charger when the console Is in home, the console don't charge. I have replace m92 and bq integrate but nothing change. The value of bq are right. Do you have any idea or solution? Thank you so much 🙏
Hi you could check or replace the fuel gauge IC. If this ic is faulty ik can stop the charging process. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim Thanks for your help. I try to change the fuel gauge. Another question, if i want measure the voltage on the caps near the m92, the board must be on the First stage of boot, second stage of boot or Is It enough that the board are connected with the originale charger?
@@Hamlet0081 Hi M92 is for power negotitation when a USB cable this case a usb charger is connected. you can measure the voltages when the usb charger is connected. More detail info you can see the video: czcams.com/video/cYYgCPB60UY/video.html
You can download the presentation here: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1tDKTyixTMOpvW-vhEHqDcQv8tNMkYSMP
There is no cpu or ram memory, is it normal to have a consumption of 150mah? When I turn on the consumption is 0mah
I charged the switch with a non-original charger and burned the charging socket, the socket was replaced but the joy con does not charge, where to look for the problem?
Hi, Check M92 and the Charging IC. These often go bad when your charging port is damaged. Also check the PI3USB IC and filters for shorts. Gr. Jim
This was really useful! I have a doubt though, what should I do if most caps around the MAX77620 chip are shorted?
Hi, Please check if it is really a short because some capacitors have a very low impendance resistance. The resistance could be +- 60 ohm to 310 ohms. Some capacitors have a resistance of +1 kohms. If you get a shorts on both sides like 0.6 ohm then you have a dead short. You can use voltage injection to see which components get hot.
there are no max77621A chips on my motherboard, instead they are max77812
Hi that is possible sometimes they use different IC when there is a revision of the PCB board. Thank you for your response. Gr. Jim
Hello !
Merci pour tes vidéo que je viens de découvrir mais j'ai une SL qui surchauffe, j'ai changé le fan mais en vain, ça ne tourne toujours pas. Aurait tu une idée à me conseillé stp ?
Salut, merci pour vos commentaires. Essayez de suivre les lignes de données du ventilateur et voyez s'il y a un numérique PWM sur une broche ainsi que la tension du ventilateur. Vérifiez les composants sur ces lignes. PWM finira par aller à votre APU. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim je retrouve aucun schéma sur le net pour m'aider. Je sèche complètement...
@@chronossgames1536 Il n’existe aucun schéma Nintendo Switch accessible au public. Ces informations proviennent des conseils de donateurs pour enquêter. Gr. Jim
I'm missing v2 and v6, do you have any idea what it could be? max77620h chip replaced but still the same. nintendo stuck at 113 mA
Hi hard to say, could be a short somewhere else, you could replace this ic if you know there are no shorts on the board. Gr. Jim
@fixmyapp There is no cpu or ram memory, is it normal to have a consumption of 150mah? When I turn on the consumption is 0mah
Hi, maybe the charging circuit works and is charging the battery. When there is no battery connected then 150mA is not normal it should be less then 10mA. Gr. Jim
do you have a video for nintendo oled???
Hi, not yet maybe in the future. :)
❤❤❤❤
anyone knows where can I get the boardview of game consoles
You can Google it. You can buy a license for a boardview software from China but it is very expensive. Gr. Jim
thank you for your replay sir, XinZhiZao has some boardview and Nintendo switch are sold separately, nice videos you are making!!!@@fixmyappjim
do you have a video like this for a nintendo switch lite?
Hi, i don't have it but i will be releasing the diode measurements video about the Nintendo Switch Lite soon which can help diagnosing the problem. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjimCould you please clear my doubts, in some voltages the values I have are 100, 200 more in the resistance part than yours, can you consider a margin of error, or is it something abnormal? At other points I have almost 1000 difference in resistance
@@leandrooliveira9137 Hi +- 100 ohms margin depends on what you are measuring. Low impedance line will have low resistance so a change 100 ohm change can be important to check. 100 ohm margin in a resistor is not bad. Also multimeters can give different values. 1000 ohm can be a indication that you have to investigate the circuit. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim close to the ci M92T36 in that row of 3 capacitors, the first 2 I have 1200ohms in each, and the device does not turn on, and when you insert the chip the light pulse turns blue and then flashes a semi-yellow color, then another question would be, By removing this M92T36 would this value have to go out or without the ci and normal would it have no value?
If there is a sweeping robot repair
Hi, for now i have no plans to make a sweeping robot repair, maybe in the future. Gr. Jim
My switch can not connect to pc. My usb c port is good i even changed 2 of them but the same issue remain. Is the piusb chip reponsibke for tranfering data friend? Im planning to change it to see if it works
Hi i would try to replace the M92T36 power delivery ic that is a cause of alot of charging / usb problems. PI3USB is for transmitting the hdmi signal to your nintendo dock. Gr. jim
@@fixmyappjim my device can be charged and docked properly. I will try to replace the m92 ic to see if it works. Thank you
@@bison5396 Hi you know that the switch is not designed to be connected to the pc? You can only check RCM mode. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim yeah i know. Mine is a modded one. I bought this one as a dead switch. I repaired and modded it but the only issue is it can not connect to pc via mass usb storage.
@@bison5396 Ok now i understand. Yeah i would start witch replacing the m92T36 ic. Did you measure that all usb pin's are making a connection with the pads? Gr. Jim
What do I need this for?
To fix nintendo switch. Gr Jim
What is error code 2134-0516
M92 ic could be faulty or a bad battery. Gr Jim
wooooooooooow
At 20:10 you say that if that cap is shorted when the IC is removed, it's the SOC that's likely dead. When my M92 is removed the short is gone, but it comes back even when I put a known working M92 back on. Is it still the SOC or something else?
Basically, what I've got going on is I got a switch and when I plugged it in, it drew no power at all. The cap in your video that I referenced in my previous comment was shorted but none of the other ones were. So I changed it for a brand new M92 and now I get 14v, .46A draw but it just stays there and never drops. Unit still does not turn on, but I guess drawing voltage is a step in the right direction.
I suspect it could be the MAX77620 ic since some of the caps around that chip appear to be shorted, but I need to find out 100% before messing around with BGA. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.
Hi you are getting 14V so that means power negotiation with the M92 IC is working. 0.46A is in my case most of the time a eMMc fault, but to be certain i would test the phase 1 boot with and without battery to check the current. If all voltages on the max ic are present when you press the power button then it is a faulty eMMc. Gr. Jim@@temporaryscars
@@fixmyappjimis that the MAX77620A IC? Funny you should mention that. I noticed with the mm on continuity I was getting some caps shorted to ground. I'll have to double check if they're dead shorts to ground or not but I suspect the IC might be faulty.
Btw, thank you for this video! It has been immensely helpful.
@fixmyappjim yeah, not getting voltages on V6 what-so-ever. I only have a battery, a USB-C cord and power button hooked up, but at now time so I get the 1.05v needed for the first boot.
V6 can have 1V or nothing this is normal, this will not prevent it from booting @temporaryscars . I think it is the eMMC if you can't find shorts or deviating diode measurements. Gr. Jim
I couldn't find both max77621 in LITE and OLED.
Is it BOTH replaced with max77812?
Hi, In lite the the main power management ic is MAX77620 and on the front side it uses the max77812. For oled i don't know which ic they used. Gr. Jim
nl.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nintendo+Switch+Lite+Teardown/126223
@@fixmyappjim
Can confirm oled uses the same chips as lite, back and front too.
Also oled replaces ENXX to generate 3.3V with MAX77801.
hello, can you tell me whee you got the boardview?
Hi i don't have a boardview a found it by searching the web. You can buy it in China but is very expensive you can google it. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim yeah i saw one site selling it for 700-1000 per month and thought there must be a better way cause that will not pay itself for me
@@paulchenpanther7577 yeah it is a ripoff. I stick with the cheapest solution that are the diode readings of a good board. :)
Guide cpu shorts?
CPU shorts, most of the time when you inject power to a shorted component and if the CPU get's hot then you know it's shorted. Gr. Jim
Eso es gracias
@@fixmyappjim Is it possible that the cpu of a v1 switch can work on a v2 motherboard?
emmc is also replaced along with the cpu
@@juanco9232 Hi yes it is possible as long as the emmc, the cpu and the anti-piracy ic are transplanted on the v2 board. Gr. Jim
Hi do you have Facebook??
Hi, no i don't have facebook for now.