I Made a Self Deploying Allen Key Probe To Rival The BLTouch
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- čas přidán 12. 05. 2024
- The hobby of 3D printing needs more touch probe options. The comparison of BLTouch vs. XYZ is kind of stupid because the vast majority of BLTouch alternatives are just clones: IP theft of the original design by Antclabs. The TouchMI is an optical touch probe at half the price of a BLTouch, but I think we can do better than that. How about 13X cheaper!?! This DIY solution uses the original touch probe idea of an Allen key activating a switch. Only this time the Allen wrench activates an optical sensor for some surprisingly accurate probing. Of course this design will only work on a Creality Ender 2, Ender3 (original), and CR10 (original) but these happen to be some of the most popular printers in the world, so hopefully lots of people will save lots of money with this awesome upgrade.
The Self Deploying Allen probe files have been uploaded. I will still be doing some work to make them easier to print and I also need to explain them more in the next video. That being said, you should be able to get these printed and working. My partner for this project 3D Printscape is responsible for the firmware and he is on a work trip until the end of the month. Expect the final vides from me and him at the beginning of March. In the mean time you should be able to get the probe working with the start script found at the link. DO NOT run a regular Auto Home (G28) command unless you are there to flex the deployment catch out of the way with your hand. This issue will be solved with the new firmware build which will move the X-carriage inboard to avoid the collision. Use the firmware and wiring from the previous build: • Unbeatable for $200 - ...
Link to Print Files and G-code script (Please consider $1 Patreon support):
thangs.com/punamenon/Main%20B...
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I bet you could use a piece of PTFE tube to help with the movement of the Allen key.
Great minds think alike!!
or silicon spray
My thoughts exactly. Watch the video. I had the same idea and started to skim through the comments to see if anyone had mentioned it first. Great minds think alike!!!😜
Just need a smooth enough hole really. Even with a well tuned machine pumping out exactly the right size holes, running a straight piece of wire or the right size drill bit in and out of the hole in a straight motion works to deburr and burnish the hole for smooth motion. Trick is finding a good RPM for your bit/wire and plastic but can get a shiny hole if you find just the right speed.
Linear ball bearing for the win
Put the Allen Key in a Dremel and grind a needlepoint on it to alleviate any contact point deviation. Also on the end that triggers the optical switch, add a black "Flag" that triggers the sensor. That will diminish the trigger point error induced by the angled surfaces of the key and make for a more stable Trigger Point.
A sharp point can be an issue for heavily textured beds though, maybe just a rounded tip
just a touch of flat-black spray paint on the key would reduce the trigger point error too
A ball end would be much better and less prone to bed surface error.
Good idea William, but a sharp needlepoint could sink into the surface it is probing, and thus a more blunt would give better results. You are right it the surface points area will/could make that impact. But the opposite isn't perfect either.
But you get others, like me, to thinking, and that is great.
I feel like that repeatability accuracy is not far off a genuine BL touch. Or even a CR touch which is purportedly more accurate. I like the simplicity. Less is oftentimes more.
Only thing I would look into is that the deviation was increasing constantly over the 10 measurements. Backlash is the first thing that comes to mind.
Holy crap I think you are on to something! If you look at the screenshot at 10:40 he talks about the Range stat at the bottom, but every entry as you go down the page the Range stat gets larger!
Thank you so much for your videos and this one in particular. Keep up the good work!
Awesomely simple, and works well. Thanks for sharing.
Make the tube the wrench slides in longer. That will reduce your deviation angle.
Very much looking forward to the next video. Great work.
Excellent video! You are a great contributor to our community. I have been thinking there has to be a better probe than the bltouch or inductive. Keep it up!
I tend to bounce around with the subject content I watch. Every time I bounce here I always find something interesting and enlightening. Thanks for that 👍🏽.
You are more than welcome and thank *you.*
11:52 ..so good... Glad you are making videos again!
Great video! I will definitely have to try and make something like this for my printers. Don't own any of the creality machines so would have to modify this one to work for me. Nice of you to share with the community as I am sure you put plenty of hours into making it.
This was a great follow up to the first version of this that you posted. Solid concept and I'm sure you'll nail down the fine tuning in no time.
Good job, dude.
FWIW, I like the Euclid Probe a lot better than the BLT. I've had 5 BLTs fail in as many years, each time costing me a lot of money in damaged print surfaces and new BLTs
this is why i buy the cheap 3d touch probes. they work and their like 15$. id like to support bltouch but 40$ is alot of money for something that will break eventually and sometimes they just dont work properly( i have 2 real bltouch sensors currently and honestly the 3d touch probes work better as far as just doing their job, the accuracy is off a slight bit but for 25$ less ill make do)
Wow, what a great idea! Thanks a lot for sharing.
Following for testing! Keep us posted!
"Don't buy knock offs from China" Proceeds to build part for Chinese knock-off printer with Chinese knock-off sensor bought from Chinese knock-off website.
Either proudly made in the USA 😤😤😤🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🦅💪🏻😎 or it's just a fake knock off. Good line of reasoning dude.
A knock off is a copy of something already existing made with the purpose of deceiving. Creality is a brand and makes his own products and aliexpress is just a portal like ebay: you buy from sellers not the platform itself. And you cannot claim a basic optical sensor has some kind of "legitimacy" as it's a generic enough part that doesn't have any owner.
@@ef3675 I didn't say anything about made in the USA. All I said was that it was funny he said not to buy knockoffs, then used a knock off printer (It's a clone of a prusa) and bought knock off parts from a site that specializes in selling knock off stuff. No shame, my printer is also a knock off. I was just pointing out the irony.
@@justind8521 although I see the irony about a China made product, can't agree with the other part. Ender 3 isn't a knockoff of Prusa. If you strech it that far, then Prusa and even the reprap is a 'knockoff' of Stratasys FDM printers.
@@ytskt I stand corrected. The Ender is an entirely original design not based on any existing printers. It's not at all a knockoff made to sell printer to people looking for a budget friendly option.
@@justind8521 ender is NOT a clone of prusa. They were developed from common ancestor, so they are similar, but both are equally original.
I like the fact you don't only are criticizing things and situations in the printing world(to do good) but you also have the brains to make things yourself! Good luck with the product.Grtz
Can't wait for the release.
The best thing about 3D printers is making new custom stuff for 3D printers! Cool idea and thanks for publishing your design.
Alright, I've got working ABL! Inspiration is far more valuable than any "IP". Thank you.
This is a terrific build idea. I got my stock ender3v2 for Christmas last year, and in a lucky coincidence my family bought me PETG instead of PLA for my first filament spool, so I had to learn some things pretty quickly. Haven't burnt out my feed tube yet, but did melt off my shroud, but still works okay. My first mod was updating the firmware (which is an ABSOLUTE MUST), and second was a side-spool holder. A couple comments about this video though: I would have liked if the model of the optic sensor was included in the graphic animation, to show where the sensing transition was, and also a little the explanation how the trigger point is at a constant, if indeterminate, offset from the bed, how that is adjusted in the firmware to create the z adjustments.
This is great! My original DPT direct drive mod is still holding up perfectly (even though I printed it in PLA) but I’d love to gain this functionality on my Ender 3.
My first printer, a MakerGear M2, came with a BLTouch and I spent hundred of dollars on replacement probes. On an unattended printer without collision or other kind of failure detection, spaghetti or curling corners can snag the probe. This can then start shifting layers and worst case, a feedback loop that gets bad fast. Many times, I didn't notice the probe was bent, leading to frustrating goose chases. I've never had a problem with the PINDA on my Prusa, and since I ditched the glass on my M3, I'm thinking of switching to inductive. I prefer to spend my tweaking time elsewhere, but to each his own. Ditto on the shout-out to IP. It's something we don't think about enough, being so spoiled by the cheapness of clones that it's so easy to not care about innovation. It's only going to get worse if ignore it. Double ditto on KISS. It's a shame I only ever remember the basics after days of over-engineering.
Its kind of funny that you mention it that it started with micro-switches and a removable probe, and now in areas like the voron community, they ar egoing back to micro-swites in things like the klicky probe to deal with the heated chamber challenges of other probe solutions. Keep up the good work!
Some times simple is the best. I've tested a few key switches used by the keyboard building community and they also work great in filament run out detectors due to their low actuation pressure.
The Klicky probe is great because it auto adjusts your z offset when you change build surfaces and nozzles etc. In my experience though, you still need to run it at a consistent chamber temperature or you will get first layer inconsistencies between prints.
If I print from my machine cold, I get a first layer that is way too high and I have to adjust my switch_offset to move the nozzle closer. But then if my chamber is heated I get prints that are way too close.
I don’t know if this is because the mechanics of the switch itself alters with the heat or if it’s caused by something else, but this drove me crazy.
Now I just make sure my chamber is heated and I get prefect first layers even when I switch out build surfaces and nozzles.
microswitch is definitely the most KISS solution, his solution while he thought is simple is actually far more prone to errors than a simple microswitch... in fact i always go back to using those small tactile switch mounted directly on the nozzle.
Really a big thank's for your time for that design I wish I could install it on my Ender max at the place where the bltouch 😉
Great video! I like the magnet implementation you did. Was kind of sceptic on last video because it needed human intervention but its all good now
Nice work! This is innovative.
See??
THIS is why I love watching, and support where I can, Design Prototype Test!
Not only is this a big time K.I.S.S. part, it's got its roots all the way back to the humble hobbyest 3D printings' beginnings!😁
Please, never stop with your content.
I'ma lifer for sure!😋😁❤️
Nice build! A couple years ago i've spoted this type of "BLTouch" on a Brazilian 3D Printer. GTMax3D, is the commpany name. But, in his machine, the allen key was a little bigger, so the probe retraction is done lowering the Z on the bed itself.
very good i like it! and FWIW -+1 thou sounds to me like a plenty good enough accuracy for any typical fdm printers. but especially at such a low bom cost. really appreciated this and thanks for doing the video 👍👍
Please publish your start script as well for those of that use klipper... could be used to build a gcode macro in mainsail. Thanks for all your work! great job!
Thanks for continuing to post! Don't let content theft slow you down :)
Thank you Dillon. Your good wishes are reciprocated.
I like the simplicity of your deployment method. I have been working on a touch sensor that uses a Nitinol wire actuator to deploy the probe but it is too complicated by far. I do use a piezoelectric sensor to detect contact on the touch sensor, along with a single underbed piezo sensor to detect nozzle contact and if the nozzle is clean. I will see if I can come up with a version using your "Allen key" method but I will continue with the piezo as it works well for me.
I like the simple mechanism with the magnet. Great idea
you. are. amazing.
more please!!
Quite interesting. I think it's similar to BFPTouch, but addition of magnets to keep probe retracted - is quite cool!
I have subscribed. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hey i am happy to see that you keep your unique work up! Don't forget to put your Patreon Links and other ref links into your description!
Great video, idea and build!
What about drilling out that hole as needed and installing a metal tube of the correct size for the key to slide freely?
Thanks for the inspiration
it's great and it's true! Will impolement this in my next printers
it's so great you do this bltouch killer
I used Sharp optical switches for engine cam/crank position sensing with excellent results and reliability. Great choice. They have some with narrow apertures, might help some.
Also have a half baked idea of 2 magnets, one on probe, other rotates for park/release. One side will attract, other repels for slight spring action.
Yes! The slotted ones. Under $.80 online. Very sharp transition and if the interrupt or is knife edged (or very thin), the response is extremely accurate.
Love the projects :)
I tried the Teaching Tech CR6 style bed leveling on the Ender 3 but I found that the design was more rigid than my print bed. I like that the probe on this has a degree of movement so the bed doesn’t have to be super rigid. Possibly when I get a second printer I will try combining the ideas.
That wobble effect causing inaccuracy is why I opted to print and design a probe in the cnc surface probe style but adjusted down to the size of a BL Touch and using parts readily recyclable (probe tip is burned out CD drive's linear rod, pre-load spring also found in all drives as a vibration dampener). Even in a setup that guides the pins around the probe into their saddles in the housing, takes thoroughly accounting for that motion to get it right. My CAD constraints all look like programming functions at this point.
Wow that's realy cool thank you 🤩👍
I´d use a 3mm linear rod and use two sintered brass bushings as a guide. But great to know that it would not even be necessary. Great idea for self deploying, kind of like an optical klicky probe. I admire the simplicity.
Thanks for sharing. The amount of learning information you share throughout the video, not just the prototype, is amazing. Respect. (Would this work on a Ender 5 Pro)?
Looking at videos of the Ender 5 pro, I'm 95% positive that this geometry will bolt onto that machine without issue.
Great idea! To optimize it you can maybe rotate the Allen key to horizontal position and use a lever to get more precision!
Pretty awesome design.
Great work
Hi very nice idea, did you try to grind the point of the allen key, I think if u make it conic it'll might give you better accuracy.
This is awesome! Fantastic concept and beautiful design! Can this work with a Voxelab Aquila?
Watching this video, this may help the issue I am having with my bltouch on the cr10 max. I 'd love to test it and give you some feedback as I get the flashing light issue a lot on this printer even after changing the probe and bltouch itself
Wanderful man, wanderful channel, genius ideas. Make it simple
Nice project mate
Did you say we could start printing the print head unit? Where might I find that file? I’m really excited to see you complete this. Cheers
Shopping around for an optical switch and I notice some of the ones with built-in amplifiers/schmitt triggers specifically mention temperature compensation. Makes sense, the photo-transistor would pickup thermal noise offsetting the trigger threshold. Something to watch out for.
Can you give me a citation? Would love to read it and get all the information for myself.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I dare not post a link, but search for a datasheet for any optical switch with a "built-in temperature compensation circuit" like EE-SX398 by Omron. Plenty of papers on temperature dependence of phototransistors and such. As I understand, the slit width and sensor area are much larger than the precision we are trying to achieve, so it is very much operating in the analog regime so where precisely the trigger fires will be quite important.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Found a good one. I'd post a link, but CZcams. It's linked on my T-verse probe design/demo. "Technical Information for Photomicrosensors" comes up as first result (Omron). Figures 9 and 10 show temperature dependence of both LED and sensor with a 10% dropoff in light current from room temperature to 80C. If we assume the aperture width represents the transition from light to dark, 10% translates to a pretty big systematic error in height (which can be accounted for).
Thinking on this some more, it's probably not so bad. The sensor will saturate at high brightness, so fading out across the entire aperture width is not the problem. More likely it will stay on until the last little sliver of light disappears. So crossing the threshold will happen over a much shorter distance than the actual aperture width. Just crank up the brightness. Some sensors allow for bright pulsed light, too.
Really like both design and the philosophy behind the channel. I've firsthand discovered that the knockoffs aren't accurate. I'd be curious to try yours out, but I'm running a different hotend - any chance you would share the source files and not stl's?
ive been wanting to integrate your probe,
got any manifold for a direct drive fit?
what if you used a bit of ptfe tubing to line it for the allen to fit into, eliminating wobble? you could match it near the ID size is near the size of whatever allen you use, and remesh the model to fit the captured tubing. as for middle/bowing - I always wondered... is it possible to put a probe on either side the hotend and have them work together to detect more minute problems like that? if too difficult, a new probing method might need programmed to do "center" then like 4 points around the center, so the probe can detect that bowling or bulging.
The mesh bed leveling square grid may need to be rethought about and worked upon for greater accuracy at the foundation of these systems. And obviously the closer you can get the probe to the actual nozzle, the better, correcting for offsets is yet another step in complexity and having it off by 0.5mm can lead to disasters.
Reminds me of the TouchMi probe which also uses an optical sensor.
If you can setup custom motions and read from the sensor in real time outside of the programmed bed-probing mode; I think you might be able to use this as a makeshift 3d (well, more like 2.5d) scanner, by probing over the whole usable space, rising above the highest part of what you're scanning before each horizontal movement to ensure no crashes. Would benefit from a thinner probe though.
Will the geometry be compatible with the direct drive mount for your Newbs/Print Farms Ender 3 mod? Thank you for sharing!
Yes, and even better.
Interesting.
- There is a 3rd situation where Bl-Touch, or electromagnetic based sensing device won't work; in a strong magnetic field.
I made a super duper Delta printer using ball joint and magnets to eliminate slop. The field generated by the 6 magnets around the effector is strong enough to disrupt completely the weak little electro-magnet of the Bl-Touch.
- You would have less wobble if you had longer sleeve or even better 2 paced out guide holes.
- Can use a larger Allen key if wanted, just use a thin flag.
- need to package this in order to easily adapt to many hot head styles.
there is a bigger reason, you really dont want to use a off center probe on delta. regardless of it being bltouch or not.
Awesome! It’s nice seeing these cost saving mods. Have you seen the the Ender Bender?
So when you use it, you have to manually pull it down once to release it from the magnet, and at the end of the bed sensing cycle, you have the machine push the key back to the magnet, right?
The machine pulls it down also
Really nice! Do you think you can reduce the slop problem of the allen key by using a thicker (and heavier) key? It could be less sticky in the hex hole even with tighter tolerances. (PS: not going too crazy on a super-massive key...just a little bit bigger)
I had thought of it, but dismissed it. Your comment is causing me to reconsider. There are a lot of aspects to the decision. Such as the thickness of the Allen combined with the plastic over-molding. These must be skinny enough to fit in the fork of the optical sensor. I'll look into it. If I end up using a thicker Allen you can take credit for making me think about it more. :)
I was going to use a BLTouch on my Kossel Mini but I didn't think about my magnetic push armswhen designing my effector. The magnets are too strong and too close so their magnetic field interferes with the BLTouch making it useless.
Now I have to design something else and was going to try and use an Allen key style. Just need to find the time to design something.
BINGO! That is one great solution!
You know, you could make that 0.025mm closer to that sub-micron number by putting pieces of electrical tape over the round sensor hoke with a gap of about 35-50% of the diameter of the sensor hole. Also, the closer to the sensor side of the transmitter receiver pair you locate the interrupter, the more consistent and snappier the response.
You’ve probably already looked at most or all of these features, but I thought I’d throw-in on them for those super detail types (like me).
Thanks for what I think will prove to be one of the most innovative 3D printer hacks of this cycle….
Cheers, sir!
But that's exactly the point! Why would you bother with such an accuracy that you don't need here, yet there are still other problems not solved yet. With this design he is solving those problems, and gives a darn f* to unnecessary accuracy, that lot of people hooked on like they need to compensate something.
@@dekurvajo Practical or not, needed or not, every engineer strives for accuracy. It’s in our DNA. The fact that he resolves a set of other issues is completely laudable and appropriate to this idea. The fact that he’d like the probe action to be more accurate is equally laudable. Practicality, complexity and cost will likely swamp out many potential improvements, but he’s done his homework and has a nice solution.
Going to have to give this a try. I've been holding off on ABL because I'm tight but this should fit the budget nicely. I might tweak the design a bit to deploy via an eject button on X home and retract automatically via magnet at print height (lower than probe height). That should pretty much eliminate any extra commands or firmware requirement methinks.
Just uploaded a quick demo of what I was trying to say.
Looking forward to trying this out! So far, I've had 3 bltouch sensors and at least that many clones fail after the first 3-4 prints, so anything has to be better. In fact, one of the bls failed on install....as did it's replacement. The 3rd replacement failed after 1 print, and that's when i decided I'm done with them for good...I didn't bother returning it for a 3rd time. 😔
I had a very similar problem, I removed the pin, left it on a magnet for 5 minutes to remagnetize it and cleaned it from any grease. Also cleaned the inside of bltouch with a qtip, now it works really fine.
From the 100 times it deployed the pin since I fixed it, it only failed like two to three times
@@pavol0 I wouldn't think I'd have to do that right out of the package, but I'll give it a try with them...thanks! 👍
To improve the consistency of the vertical movement I would hold the probe with a bi-stable flexure. That way it would not rely on gravity and you could eliminate the magnet. Likely you could eliminate the key as well and print the probe as part of the existing fan housing. I would also make a housing around the optical sensor to eliminate stray light.
Have you considered lining the hole for the probe with a short length of PTFE tubing?
Did you happen to test the range on the bltouch with the same test?
Definitely interesting probe. I've saw some similar one like Touch Mi. For safety i would make pin printable and not very strong specifically for cases when for some reason you forgot to retract it and it hits the bed or printed object. So pin will easily break without damage of head holder for example. Pin can be printed again so there won't be big damage from incident.
But what i think would be a winner in probes is that which will measure the offsets by nozzle. It's a really painful to set correct Z offset after changing the nozzle (or whole head). So probe which will measure bed and nozzle offset at the same time would be perfect.
A Wheatstone bridge strain sensor uses the nozzle as the probe, check hackaday article named ‘QUARTET OF SMD RESISTORS USED TO SENSE Z-AXIS HEIGHT’
@@iridiandot great idea! Unfortunately it's mostly for bowden system. Doing it with direct extruder will be more tricky as you have to invent some flexible mount for the whole extruder. May be strain gauge for the whole X rail can sense bending when nozzle touch the bed.
Nice, I want to replicate it for my CR-10, where do you connect the sensor???
Do you need to change anything on the head or can you use it stock?
Well done! It’s clear that good design intrinsically tugs your soul, and improvements just have to come out. It’s great to see this, as opposed to pursuing mainstream, easy videos!
The biggest issue i have with this and all other bed leveling methods like the BLTouch etc, is that it does not know of the current nozzle height.
Every time is dismantle the hot extruder and put it together again the height was always different then before. For me the only right solution is to use the nozzle to measure the bed level.
really nice work hope you opensource the code en plans so we can make it also :) thx keep up the good work
Thanks, this could solve my interference issue.
Anyone else had problems with AC beds and bltouch? If I go with 11*11 grid I can 'see' the path the power leads on the underside of the bed, I'm assuming it's the hall sensor picking up the magnetic fields?
(I have tried 3, original smart v3, creality, & clone). They all give same results, - /+0.3 mm when I keep bed on when probing only along the path the cables take, (I now use firmware to heatsoak then switch off bed whilst probing).
Great idea. I still have a delta printer with a Allen key type optical bed leveler. However I have to manually retract it.
I think you mean clicky switch. If it has an optical switch I would love to see a picture.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I don't know how to attach a photo to a comment but I used thing 605729 as a starting point.
I'm curious if you've actually tried it in a 60C heated chamber. The optical sensor will work fine, but it seems possible the plastic might change shape enough to cause some trouble in the movement of the allen key.
CNC Kitchen tested different plastics defeormantion in oven.
I just got the crtouch and installed it and so far I love it ( I'm new to 3d printing). I do like your idea but, it is a little more than I want to take on. You feel pretty strongly about the knock off thing but, I have to wander why you got the switched off aliexpress (based in China) instead of a local electronic store.
There are no intellectual property rights in place for a LIMIT SWITCH.
Do you know offhand if this will fit the Creality Direct Drive Extruder (the one they sell on the Creality site)?
I did not realize that product existed. Thank you for the heads up. Yes. It looks like the lower part is unchanged. The metal fan shroud looks identical to stock. Therefore, my design here should work perfectly.
Have you tried lining your slide slot with Bowden tube?
Maybe some kind of standard dowel, or cheap straight shank tool like a drill would have the least slop and most circularity. Then a reamer can be used to create a smooth, accurate bore for a much tighter tolerance.
Like for the try and the thought !!
really awesome concept for an ABL. I bought myself a BLTouch and really love it, and honestly I didn't feel the price was too steep(also compared to some other "upgrades" people suggest). What are your reasons for ~$40 being to expensive, with most machines already costing a couple hundred to thousands of dollars.
I got the Microcenter Ender 3 Pro deal for $100 USD so a BLTouch would be almost half the cost of the machine
@@NiSE_Rafter i mean kind of... you said you got a deal, not really the actual cost of the machine, and the ender series is already fairly cheap. the BLTouch has worked great for almost full automation of my printer, so for you, if it is only half the cost of the rest of the machine, that also seems like a decent deal to me. I wish getting autopilot only cost half the price of my car :D
Super concept.... But following the kiss princip... Why the chance from the switch ? Kliky probe Seem to Work like a charm
I love this, but not just because it adds even more DIY to my machines, but because the housing can be even more versatile with a version that supports a BLTouch, a CRTouch or no touch sensor at all. If you would consider it, please add a pair of models that will increase the utility of this 'system'.
I have a couple of ideas:
1) maybe some adjustable rollers/bearings in the tube could help improve precision;
2) consider selling completed devices or parts kits on Etsy or something similar.
Genius!
Hi again.. I want to see if another update is coming.. I know you mentioned in my last post you were going to add direct extruder and a few other extras. I purchased all my fans, resistor, cables etc.. Again...I want you know I appreciate all you do. Thank you...
I hear you. I am working on it when I can.
@@DesignPrototypeTest thanks....not meaning to rush you because just you doing this for free is insane as it is... besides all the negative crap you get from these yahoo's. I'll sit patiently... I may go ahead and print what you have up and just do that for now... again.. I don't mean to be rushing you..
Why not just use an insert for the allen key channel? Would that not work?
maybe this is a solution fits hex wrench in a PTFE tube ?
Gonna be honest with you, the pinda works so much better than the bl touch my guy
I'm not your guy, and you are wrong. If it was such a great solution Prusa wouldn't be abandoning it with the new PrusaXL. I can already hear your reply " They need the analogue touch nozzle functionality so they can self align the different print heads. That's why the XL doesn't have a P.I.N.D.A. probe." Sure, that's a believable reason for the tool changer XL, but what about the single nozzle "regular" Prusa XL? Why are they forcing you to pay extra money for the nozzle touch sensor? I thought the P.I.N.D.A. worked perfectly. So, either your favorite company is A)Ripping you off and forcing you to buy something you don't need on the upcoming printer or B)Selling you inferior technology in the P.I.N.D.A. probe. Either way I don't understand how you can continue to be a fanboy for this company that obviously just wants your money and your continued quasi-religious devotion. The idea that someone could love this company with such intensity is so weird to me. Anyway, now that I've made this criticism it's likely there will be an announcement that the single nozzle PrusaXL will come with a P.I.N.D.A. Then, when I claim that my criticisms motivated the change there will be a bunch of comments telling me "You are so egotistical, you think Prusa sees your videos or reads your comments. Dude! They don't even know you exist. Get over yourself."