i did ine by myself, took me 3 years, i have bad eyes (i see two screw heads ) and afraid of hieghts. but im poor , so had no choices. i used 5/4 deck boards two feet on center, and used 1inch foil foam between for extra insulation, noise dampening. but i know im no expert, just making due
This is awesome thanks! So many people out there who think everything has to be perfect and done by the book like your not just stopping the rain from getting in.
I am going to be in the market soon to buy a home and I have always said I will make sure the roof has just been done because I dont want to pay for or deal with that crap. You just showed me that whipping up a roof is no big deal. Now I am going to look to find a house I bargain the full cost of a professionally done roof and then do this so save some cash. I have always liked the look of tin and this looks great. Well done thank you for this
This is what I needed. I'm about to put some corrugated metal on my roof and this video is super concise. Thanks! You're making it look easy! Well... easier.
Cool we have had basic handy folks do a whole area of town for elder & handicap folks & saved big bucks & no one's complaining! Very ~ Functional & looks Way Better! Thank you 4 suggestions & ideas ~with deals & such ~neighbors helping neighbors~or we couldn't have done it all
Youre so cool! I dont suppose Ive watch anything like this before. So nice to seek out any person with some authentic ideas on this subject. realy thanks for beginning this up. this video is one thing thats needed on the net, somebody with a bit of originality. useful job for bringing something new to the youtube!
Nice job. Doesn't look bad. The only concern I would have is leaving 3 layers of shingles on if I heard you correctly that is a lot of weight to leave on your roof especially if you have 2×4 for your roof.
that's a violation of building code 2 roofs max and if you have the architectural you cannot shingle over it metal probably ok with long fasteners he mentioned triple roof plus the strips tat roof is holding a hell of a load if its in snow area there's no margin . roof collapse will destroy the home and insurance might not pay. see there's areas where there's no codes but it don't mean skip proper building practices
awesome man. Im liking your cap. never seen it done like that. My grandfather owns 100 plus rental properties. .my brother and i been metal roofin them. Finishing a big two story place today. 30° outside. Take care.
Good job. Maybe could have cut that ridge piece and lapped over the short ones on up to the ridge. Then used the ridge cap pieces. Still a good job bro for a 1 man show with no experience. Great idea with the discount materials. I have a big house in the county I am going to start buying like that for.
Saw your thumbnail and had to drop in and say my Mom’s neighbor had a metal roof installed after Hurricane Gustav but had it laid directly on the plywood decking. Along comes nasty Hurricane Ida and he had no damage. Some roofs with metal that were installed with stripping were ripped off. Air got under there and pulled the panels off.
I just used a marker and a level and pre-drilled the holes which worked really well n made it much easier n faster to get the panels held up being the only one on the roof attaching them
Looks good I'm doing mine soon my only comment is instead of laying wood under the tin I would have just put fan fold down and screwed the tin to the shingles, that's how we always done it when I worked roofing I've put on many and never herd of any leaks being a problem, anyways man best to ya hope all is well
looks great, we need to do our cottage roof, just a small cabin of a building with a screen porch that needs covering. Looking for easiest and cheapest way. Great video, thank you.
It would be even cheaper to use trash bags and scotch tape. Getcha some! Everyone seems to be mesmerized by how cheap he did it, and completely over look the fact that just about everything was done WRONG, guarantying failure of the roof.
did he say, "triple roofed" i think thats asking 4 trouble on down the road. but do what u must NOW. this is a must do project, i assume and money tight well done young man.
That's an extremely large amount of weight doesn't matter how tight you are take a loan suck a tradesmen dick do what you have to in order to get your roof done properly it's the only thing keeping Everything from getting wet and destroyed mot to mention it could collapse on you. Your roof is one of the most important things behind a foundation it's a huge selling point if you have a new roof done properly when you sell.
I thank you for your very informative video. You saved a ton of money by doing that yourself and you do good work. Thank you for this because I need to do this to a roof I have very soon.
I would have silicone under the panel to form a gasket seal instead of at the joints externally. The elements are going to loosen up the silicone and leak.Concerned about the valley with the exposed ribs. Ice dams snow melting into the ribs could be an issue over time. Saw the comments on a vapor barrier and took note of that.Thanks for the video Danny.
Never cut sheet metal with a saw. The heat will destroy the protective coating and it will rust to shit. Theirs a reason tradesmen don't cut it that way.
Well Done, the firing strips are interesting, due to the half inch of air insulation. By now you have enjoyed the winters with the snow just sliding off....
Keeping the old shingles will cause massive heat storage in the summer. This will impact you A/C bills if you have more warm days than cold days (such as in Florida). Hot roofing shingles will keep the attic hot all day and well into the night. The metal roof by itself will dissipate this heat into the air as the air cools, the mass of the shingles will not. The shingles will readily absorb this heat from the metal panels and hold it well into the night. But, if you live in a climate with more cold days than warm days, then this would be a good thing.
@@irshaadwalee8094 tear off old shingle, underlayment, measure it right, slat it, install the right panels correctly , spent the extra ridge cap and for the trim, with 1 1/4 screws or 1 1/2. Might aswell spend the a few hundred extra and get it done right instead of doing it half way and regretting it 5 year later
The reasons the member below said your boards will rott out is from condensation,the industry standard is to lay a vapor barrier down 1st,then your boards ,in between your nail boards you need to insulate because the dead air space under the metal panels will experience thermal shock and sweat,I've fixed hundreds of leaks from non insulated expansion joints and non insulated metal overlays ,I'm also a journeyman roofer/ waterproofef . FYI the use of treated lumber is no longer required,the industry mandated all treated wood in the 80's and after 3 decades found the treated wood will dry & pop lose it's fasteners and even pull out bricks with tapcons,you used the right wood but skipping the vapor barrier ( cheap 4 mil plastic ) and insulating may cost you a huge condensation problem . If that happens don't freak out,just remove the ridge cap & fold the gutter edge of the panels up and allow fresh air to flow,install a raised cap with a 1inch gap to allow air flow and condensate should stop .
I think it doesn't matter.. One clever man said: I am not so rich to buy cheap shoes.. I also think that if you are doing something - try to consult with someone how to do it right, but in this case it looks that he don't care about what he is doing and how it will be looking after...
joshua2585 you can install a standing seam panel roof directly over perlins but in a residential setting it's not a great idea due to thermal shock , an ice cold or baking hot metal roof will condensate badly ,if your in a cold area heat loss in the attic will hit ice cold panels and make them condensate and drip into the attic . In a hot area where air conditioning is used for hot months cold air loss through the attic will allow cool air to hit a scorching hot metal roof & cause condensation ,which drips into the home . It's an industry standard in commercial roofing to insulate the substrate before installing panels,or to instal a waterproof skrim such as ice & water shield under the panel system so condensate can run out from under the panels ,a cheap alternative is to install ice shield on the perimeter & lose lay a heavy visquen plastic sheet under the panels to shed any condensation out of the system and into the gutter .
over a existing shingle roof no vapor barrier is required and with the air flow between the metal and shingles it will keep the tin from sweating very much
Rusty Shackelford in climate zones like Michigan or Ohio that experience constant thermal shock of roofing materials a waterproof skrim under metal roofing panels is a must ,a vapor barrier is an entirely different material .
Looks fine.... I used to be a roofer years ago.... No need for silicone in fact it is more likely to cause a problem by making a dam that holds water at the seam.... We would use mastic at the edge that is underneath just thin coat that stops capillary action.... Otherwise bend up both ends and run a ridge over the joint edge.... But you have nothing to worry about you have a roof under your roof... But you should have made gaps in your wood underneath so that air can flow from bottom to top evaporating moisture that in your install will begin rotting your fiberglass and tar paper roofing... As well as the underlayment skins.... Also having those gaps for ventilation would allow your roof to carry away heat in summer.... It's not a big deal I'm sure it will be fine if looks like you do have some horizontal ventilation.... You could have run black pipe under your roof in the gap to pump fluid thru to heat your home on the cheap in winter as well....
Great video. Not everyone has the money for a "professional" job. Some just need it to be functional. Making it "Pretty" is very expensive while functional, serving the purpose, can be accomplished on a budget. Your right that they rob you on the trim. There are ways around that which still serves the purpose you just need a creative mind. Luckily I'm not the type who is obsessed with it being "pretty". As long as it does the job I'm good.
I need a new roof and have little money. also disabled 62 yr. old woman. Where can I buy scratch and dent and how much should I expect to pay to have it installed. raccoons on the roof have been scratching to get in the house. just spent $200 for a patch job. any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. ty.
Im on almost the same kind of a project. Similar roof layout. Been putting on the furring strips , mine are 27 centers. Its fairly hard finding the rafter centers to make sure the 1x4's are down really tight. Im using 3 1/4" nail by air nailer. Im concerned that Im getting the 1x4's close enough to the edge so i can put on the drip edge, because i didnt cut off the overhanging shingles with a sawzall. Is that drip edge essential? also im using double bubble roll under the metal panels. and im using brilliant white metal to reduce heat in the home. THis is the main goal. since this double wide has zero loft insulation. it causes the a/c to run 24/7..
What do the shingles do under the metal? Do they start to desolve like they do in the sun over time from the heat? Or is it mainly the direct sunlight that causes that
If you are putting metal roofing on a slightly sloped new building roof with a tar paper cover over the OSB do you need to put the 1 x 4 down, or is that only to fir off of shingles??
We made a small storage room in the backyard, using cinder blocks, cement, and metal rods for the corner columns, and put some treated Southern Yellow Pine, around the top, of the perimeter. What do you recommend for covering the grooves on the sides of the metal sheets? I'm thinking what you put there, but what's it called again? You said it pretty fast. Thank you.
wow ! you mad this look so easy. id like to have my 1913 house roof just like that ... that's awesome I hope i can find some one honest to do the job.. ☺
Caulking is the wrong product for that.the manufacturers specify sealing tape.it’s a special mastic similar to what they use for automobile windshields.Stays flexible in all climates and conditions
I did this too but I allowed a 1 foot overhang... probably not up to code and might maybe possibly may be a problem in a wind storm.. but I’ll take my chances and it keeps water far from the house.... and I’m not catching the water.... I used to need to catch the water liv8ng off grid but here in Florida we have wells, all the free water I need.
Do you need to get a reroofing like this certified so that when you resell, the roof age is updated to reflect the installation? And who would do that, local inspector? And then, would you need a permit to do this? Thanks.
Shouldn't there be foam at the end of the roof to stop bugs and wind and on the valley? Never seen a roof done like this in my life. Curious to see how it is holding up.
I’m worried that my roof will sweat if I use 1x4 purlins on existing shingles . I’m in a sub arctic region … I also need to level my roof in one small area with the purlins …. Is 1x 4 s and shim it up level ok , or should I use 2x6
what about putting 1/4 inch rubber strips on the wood so when you screw in the screw you have a rubber gasket on the top of the screw and under the sheet metal to keep it from leaking it the rubber gasket on the screw fails. the rubber strip under gives it added protection and sealing power????
Very wise, putting the routine install screws on top of the ridges instead in the valleys, makes it 1,000x less likely to leak since only a direct hit from a raindrop could even have a chance of leaking at a screw head (who would put a screw in the bottom of a valley when its actually better to put it on top as said ALSO the screws on top where the panels overlap hold the "seams" together much much better so wind can't grab the metal as easily; just use 3/4" longer screws than the norm they try to foist on you. Nice video, thanks. !
You did that yourself with no help ? Then your my type of guy because that's what I do also. All your boards are straight, looks good. Great Video thanks.
We are the men who make this world go around. Today's intellectual need a entire team to swap out a light bulb, theyl look up the history of lightbulbs, look at the most efficient light bulb made with eco friendly materials then write a thesis on changing light bulbs. And yes you don't need any one for anything if your mechanically inclined you have the common sense and can pick up anything. We could prolly be doctors if we had corpses to work on but they'd out us in padded rooms if we did that.
Tear off! Architectural shingles weigh more them triple tabs, also. And low pitch for more sagging and collar tie failure. Do you have rafter clips installed?
It might last 5 years but I doubt it speaking from 45 years in the construction trades. That ridge cap is what is going to cause problems first. If it doesn't blow to hard when it rains it might work.....Good Luck
More than one way to skin a cat. I glued some kitchen cabinets to drywall and everyone said it would come down and won't support the weight its been there since 2006 i moved from that apartment and the new tenants are using it
I'm not a roofer or carpenter, but why do you need to add the 1x4 cross boards. Could you just use longer screws and screw the metal shingles over the existing shingles?
If you do yours like this man is teaching you to do you will severely screw it up the three-quarter inch boards won't have enough meat to hold screws and they will back out the condensation that occurs in the space left out of 3/4 inch boards will condensate and will Rust the metal
So I have a dumb question how is your roof supposed to breathe if you just covered the whole Vents and everything up. They put ridge vents on the top of roof for a reason.
You're a brave soul. I never would have posted a video of me doing a job like that. I do metal roofs. Your saving grace on that is the 3 layers of asphalt shingles under it.
Might sound silly, but flex seal is what I would probably use. I have sealed up exterior gaps a half inch or so wide that held for ten years. The stuff is crazy lol
so no reflective stuff between the metal and the shingles huh? also.. aren't those leaves making your roof look bad after they leave that residue on it?
It may b cheaper but you not only have the weight of the original shingles on your roof but you're adding even more weight by putting metal panels on as your new roof.
i did ine by myself, took me 3 years, i have bad eyes (i see two screw heads ) and afraid of hieghts. but im poor , so had no choices. i used 5/4 deck boards two feet on center, and used 1inch foil foam between for extra insulation, noise dampening. but i know im no expert, just making due
This is awesome thanks! So many people out there who think everything has to be perfect and done by the book like your not just stopping the rain from getting in.
I am going to be in the market soon to buy a home and I have always said I will make sure the roof has just been done because I dont want to pay for or deal with that crap. You just showed me that whipping up a roof is no big deal. Now I am going to look to find a house I bargain the full cost of a professionally done roof and then do this so save some cash.
I have always liked the look of tin and this looks great. Well done thank you for this
This is what I needed. I'm about to put some corrugated metal on my roof and this video is super concise. Thanks! You're making it look easy! Well... easier.
Cool we have had basic handy folks do a whole area of town for elder & handicap folks & saved big bucks & no one's complaining! Very ~ Functional & looks Way Better! Thank you 4 suggestions & ideas ~with deals & such ~neighbors helping neighbors~or we couldn't have done it all
Congratulations. Love to see a hard working man😊😊
You are a genius! Thank you for making this video. If you ever do one again, have someone else film so the video is steady. Thank you again.
My sorta quick & sensibly priced roof repair. Good job.
great job brother. I'm about to do my roof so any piece of information that I got your video is very helpful. Thank you for posting it
Hey nice dog
Youre so cool! I dont suppose Ive watch anything like this before. So nice to seek out any person with some authentic ideas on this subject. realy thanks for beginning this up. this video is one thing thats needed on the net, somebody with a bit of originality. useful job for bringing something new to the youtube!
This is the worst way to do a roof.don’t follow this guys work
Nice job. Doesn't look bad. The only concern I would have is leaving 3 layers of shingles on if I heard you correctly that is a lot of weight to leave on your roof especially if you have 2×4 for your roof.
that's a violation of building code 2 roofs max and if you have the architectural you cannot shingle over it metal probably ok with long fasteners
he mentioned triple roof plus the strips tat roof is holding a hell of a load if its in snow area there's no margin . roof collapse will destroy the home and insurance might not pay. see there's areas where there's no codes but it don't mean skip proper building practices
awesome man. Im liking your cap. never seen it done like that. My grandfather owns 100 plus rental properties. .my brother and i been metal roofin them. Finishing a big two story place today. 30° outside. Take care.
+Leadwint about to close on my first rental will be roofing it the same way easy
Looks good to me, about to try that myself later this spring / summer......good work.
Good job bro.. I like it... That 20 inch piece and the silicone give it some character
Great work...I'm going to put a metal roof on my house. You make it look easy.😁
Good job. Maybe could have cut that ridge piece and lapped over the short ones on up to the ridge. Then used the ridge cap pieces. Still a good job bro for a 1 man show with no experience. Great idea with the discount materials. I have a big house in the county I am going to start buying like that for.
Saw your thumbnail and had to drop in and say my Mom’s neighbor had a metal roof installed after Hurricane Gustav but had it laid directly on the plywood decking. Along comes nasty Hurricane Ida and he had no damage. Some roofs with metal that were installed with stripping were ripped off. Air got under there and pulled the panels off.
Awesome Job! Thanks for sharing your roofing Masterpiece.
I'd be thrilled to come out that good on my roof. I'm getting ready to do mine soon.
I just used a marker and a level and pre-drilled the holes which worked really well n made it much easier n faster to get the panels held up being the only one on the roof attaching them
Looks good I'm doing mine soon my only comment is instead of laying wood under the tin I would have just put fan fold down and screwed the tin to the shingles, that's how we always done it when I worked roofing I've put on many and never herd of any leaks being a problem, anyways man best to ya hope all is well
What a great job and loved the price .I want to build one for my drive way to put my 63' nova under .Tks for the tips God bless
But do it properly that guy made a mess.done on the cheap.I wonder if he used the screws for wood
@@polarlab113 thank you my friend I would change a few things but still do his theorie.
looks great, we need to do our cottage roof, just a small cabin of a building with a screen porch that needs covering. Looking for easiest and cheapest way. Great video, thank you.
It would be even cheaper to use trash bags and scotch tape. Getcha some! Everyone seems to be mesmerized by how cheap he did it, and completely over look the fact that just about everything was done WRONG, guarantying failure of the roof.
did he say, "triple roofed" i think thats asking 4 trouble on down the road. but do what u must NOW. this is a must do project, i assume and money tight well done young man.
That's an extremely large amount of weight doesn't matter how tight you are take a loan suck a tradesmen dick do what you have to in order to get your roof done properly it's the only thing keeping Everything from getting wet and destroyed mot to mention it could collapse on you. Your roof is one of the most important things behind a foundation it's a huge selling point if you have a new roof done properly when you sell.
I thank you for your very informative video. You saved a ton of money by doing that yourself and you do good work. Thank you for this because I need to do this to a roof I have very soon.
I would have silicone under the panel to form a gasket seal instead of at the joints externally. The elements are going to loosen up the silicone and leak.Concerned about the valley with the exposed ribs. Ice dams snow melting into the ribs could be an issue over time. Saw the comments on a vapor barrier and took note of that.Thanks for the video Danny.
We haven't had snow or ice in 10 years good info though on colder climates
excellent work , thanks for your nice review
Nice work! I reversed my skill saw blade to cut the metal. Worked like a charm.
Now that is a very good tip.
I tried that. The heat scorched the red paint on the metal. So I bought a cheap metal shear from HF
Never cut sheet metal with a saw. The heat will destroy the protective coating and it will rust to shit. Theirs a reason tradesmen don't cut it that way.
Great job danny ..luv your video cause you just taught me how to do it my self ..
thanks for your positive comment
Well Done, the firing strips are interesting, due to the half inch of air insulation. By now you have enjoyed the winters with the snow just sliding off....
Keeping the old shingles will cause massive heat storage in the summer. This will impact you A/C bills if you have more warm days than cold days (such as in Florida). Hot roofing shingles will keep the attic hot all day and well into the night. The metal roof by itself will dissipate this heat into the air as the air cools, the mass of the shingles will not. The shingles will readily absorb this heat from the metal panels and hold it well into the night. But, if you live in a climate with more cold days than warm days, then this would be a good thing.
Great job man. When I worked construction we put metal roofs on all the houses. Great system, it will last you a long time.
You can’t be serious...🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
@@SilentProwler what wrong with a metal roof ?
Hell if you don’t know what’s wrong with it. then I don’t even need to tell you
@@SilentProwler what would you have done different , just trying to learn does and don'ts, what size screws to lay 1/4 over shingles
@@irshaadwalee8094 tear off old shingle, underlayment, measure it right, slat it, install the right panels correctly , spent the extra ridge cap and for the trim, with 1 1/4 screws or 1 1/2. Might aswell spend the a few hundred extra and get it done right instead of doing it half way and regretting it 5 year later
The reasons the member below said your boards will rott out is from condensation,the industry standard is to lay a vapor barrier down 1st,then your boards ,in between your nail boards you need to insulate because the dead air space under the metal panels will experience thermal shock and sweat,I've fixed hundreds of leaks from non insulated expansion joints and non insulated metal overlays ,I'm also a journeyman roofer/ waterproofef .
FYI the use of treated lumber is no longer required,the industry mandated all treated wood in the 80's and after 3 decades found the treated wood will dry & pop lose it's fasteners and even pull out bricks with tapcons,you used the right wood but skipping the vapor barrier ( cheap 4 mil plastic ) and insulating may cost you a huge condensation problem .
If that happens don't freak out,just remove the ridge cap & fold the gutter edge of the panels up and allow fresh air to flow,install a raised cap with a 1inch gap to allow air flow and condensate should stop .
I think it doesn't matter.. One clever man said: I am not so rich to buy cheap shoes.. I also think that if you are doing something - try to consult with someone how to do it right, but in this case it looks that he don't care about what he is doing and how it will be looking after...
joshua2585 you can install a standing seam panel roof directly over perlins but in a residential setting it's not a great idea due to thermal shock , an ice cold or baking hot metal roof will condensate badly ,if your in a cold area heat loss in the attic will hit ice cold panels and make them condensate and drip into the attic .
In a hot area where air conditioning is used for hot months cold air loss through the attic will allow cool air to hit a scorching hot metal roof & cause condensation ,which drips into the home .
It's an industry standard in commercial roofing to insulate the substrate before installing panels,or to instal a waterproof skrim such as ice & water shield under the panel system so condensate can run out from under the panels ,a cheap alternative is to install ice shield on the perimeter & lose lay a heavy visquen plastic sheet under the panels to shed any condensation out of the system and into the gutter .
over a existing shingle roof no vapor barrier is required and with the air flow between the metal and shingles it will keep the tin from sweating very much
Rusty Shackelford in climate zones like Michigan or Ohio that experience constant thermal shock of roofing materials a waterproof skrim under metal roofing panels is a must ,a vapor barrier is an entirely different material .
I like the tip Michael gave and the roof work. Good job.
Thank you for sharing, nice video.
Wow, great ideas and I like it!!!!!
Your vidoes are better than any I have seen on Utude! Cannot wait to see your next project!
uuuuhh
Gloria Davis thanks man check out my other remodeling videos
Kick Ass Man! Good for you!
Looks fine.... I used to be a roofer years ago.... No need for silicone in fact it is more likely to cause a problem by making a dam that holds water at the seam.... We would use mastic at the edge that is underneath just thin coat that stops capillary action.... Otherwise bend up both ends and run a ridge over the joint edge.... But you have nothing to worry about you have a roof under your roof... But you should have made gaps in your wood underneath so that air can flow from bottom to top evaporating moisture that in your install will begin rotting your fiberglass and tar paper roofing... As well as the underlayment skins.... Also having those gaps for ventilation would allow your roof to carry away heat in summer.... It's not a big deal I'm sure it will be fine if looks like you do have some horizontal ventilation.... You could have run black pipe under your roof in the gap to pump fluid thru to heat your home on the cheap in winter as well....
When you said gaps, how would you do that ? Cut into the furring strips or .....?
Looks Great, Good Work!
Nice for DIY with no Standards. But I could definitely not sell that.
Nice ridgecap!
I commend you brother .. thanks for making the video. I think you did a great job assuming you had no help.
Great video. Not everyone has the money for a "professional" job. Some just need it to be functional. Making it "Pretty" is very expensive while functional, serving the purpose, can be accomplished on a budget. Your right that they rob you on the trim. There are ways around that which still serves the purpose you just need a creative mind. Luckily I'm not the type who is obsessed with it being "pretty". As long as it does the job I'm good.
people spend a lot of money chasing pretty for my own house i buy from the scratch and dent store and i save thousands that way.
I need a new roof and have little money. also disabled 62 yr. old woman. Where can I buy scratch and dent and how much should I expect to pay to have it installed. raccoons on the roof have been scratching to get in the house. just spent $200 for a patch job. any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. ty.
Dale Higgins cheap is not an option
daschundloverable racoons?
Dale Higgins I completely agree with you sir
That's an awesome job for not a lot of money. :-)
Im on almost the same kind of a project. Similar roof layout. Been putting on the furring strips , mine are 27 centers. Its fairly hard finding the rafter centers to make sure the 1x4's are down really tight. Im using 3 1/4" nail by air nailer. Im concerned that Im getting the 1x4's close enough to the edge so i can put on the drip edge, because i didnt cut off the overhanging shingles with a sawzall. Is that drip edge essential? also im using double bubble roll under the metal panels. and im using brilliant white metal to reduce heat in the home. THis is the main goal. since this double wide has zero loft insulation. it causes the a/c to run 24/7..
What type of 1”x3” did you use for the roof treated or regular wood?
You done a great job, thanks for sharing you help a lots of people that don't know or have comon since, thanks.
Does the ridge cap flow onto the roof or is it sideways roofing panels laid long ways?
You did a great 👍 job.
What do the shingles do under the metal? Do they start to desolve like they do in the sun over time from the heat? Or is it mainly the direct sunlight that causes that
Great job.It will work just fine.I like
nice job going to do my shed 16x26 was going to do shingles but after seeing this I'm going with metal thanks for the video
If you are putting metal roofing on a slightly sloped new building roof with a tar paper cover over the OSB do you need to put the 1 x 4 down, or is that only to fir off of shingles??
We made a small storage room in the backyard, using cinder blocks, cement, and metal rods for the corner columns, and put some treated Southern Yellow Pine, around the top, of the perimeter. What do you recommend for covering the grooves on the sides of the metal sheets? I'm thinking what you put there, but what's it called again? You said it pretty fast. Thank you.
Looks like a sound roof. You are correct. We notice our own flaws others will miss entirely. Thanks!
If they were blind they might miss it.
Seriously? Maybe for a hunting camp.
Nice job. What people don’t realize is that you don’t have to be fussy with metal.
wow ! you mad this look so easy. id like to have my 1913 house roof just like that ... that's awesome
I hope i can find some one honest to do the job.. ☺
Is there a moisture condensation problem doing a metal roof?
very nice. I am inspired. I think the caulking should go under so it is not exposed to sunlight
+David Phillips The caulking should definitely be sandwiched and a high-temp variety. The UV exposure will make it brittle in no time.
Caulking is the wrong product for that.the manufacturers specify sealing tape.it’s a special mastic similar to what they use for automobile windshields.Stays flexible in all climates and conditions
You done a great job. Where did you get the big square and how$ also the drill shears and how much tkx love your videos
I did this too but I allowed a 1 foot overhang... probably not up to code and might maybe possibly may be a problem in a wind storm.. but I’ll take my chances and it keeps water far from the house.... and I’m not catching the water.... I used to need to catch the water liv8ng off grid but here in Florida we have wells, all the free water I need.
Do you need to get a reroofing like this certified so that when you resell, the roof age is updated to reflect the installation?
And who would do that, local inspector?
And then, would you need a permit to do this?
Thanks.
Shouldn't there be foam at the end of the roof to stop bugs and wind and on the valley? Never seen a roof done like this in my life. Curious to see how it is holding up.
what size nails did you use for the wood slats?
I’m worried that my roof will sweat if I use 1x4 purlins on existing shingles . I’m in a sub arctic region … I also need to level my roof in one small area with the purlins …. Is 1x 4 s and shim it up level ok , or should I use 2x6
what about putting 1/4 inch rubber strips on the wood so when you screw in the screw you have a rubber gasket on the top of the screw and under the sheet metal to keep it from leaking it the rubber gasket on the screw fails. the rubber strip under gives it added protection and sealing power????
looks good... about to do the same only i got to replace some of the decking... hows the silicone holding up
I've always wondered. If you cut the steel, surely you should re-zinc it where you have exposed bare iron?
Very wise, putting the routine install screws on top of the ridges instead in the valleys, makes it 1,000x less likely to leak since only a direct hit from a raindrop could even have a chance of leaking at a screw head (who would put a screw in the bottom of a valley when its actually better to put it on top as said ALSO the screws on top where the panels overlap hold the "seams" together much much better so wind can't grab the metal as easily; just use 3/4" longer screws than the norm they try to foist on you. Nice video, thanks. !
I know a contractor in Indiana that does this, instead of the manufacturers directions. He has done hundreds of roofs with no issues.
Why didn't you put radiant foil or other similar barrier down before the strapping?
Yeah my dad put an aluminum roof on his house. It’s been on there since I was in the 4th grade - I’m 35 now and he’s had zero problems.
Aluminum roof??
Whoaa...easy with the details there fella. But then again, when you're winging it what details.
You did that yourself with no help ? Then your my type of guy because that's what I do also. All your boards are straight, looks good. Great Video thanks.
Joe De Jesus thanks man only took like 2 days by my self
We are the men who make this world go around. Today's intellectual need a entire team to swap out a light bulb, theyl look up the history of lightbulbs, look at the most efficient light bulb made with eco friendly materials then write a thesis on changing light bulbs. And yes you don't need any one for anything if your mechanically inclined you have the common sense and can pick up anything. We could prolly be doctors if we had corpses to work on but they'd out us in padded rooms if we did that.
@@adolffloydjr.1587 I agree.....
Am happy for you ❤ a contrator would took a arm and a leg now days things are expensive
What size nails did you use for the one by 4
Did you cover all your vent pipes?
Tear off! Architectural shingles weigh more them triple tabs, also. And low pitch for more sagging and collar tie failure. Do you have rafter clips installed?
Did you use screwsor nails to faster the wood perlines.
I know to use metal roofing screws on the metal.
Also how big are your wood Perlins.
still no leaks ? update would be cool, I'm going to do mine this year, and agree trim is a bit expensive, but looks good if u want a nice looking job.
Excellent job men.
It might last 5 years but I doubt it speaking from 45 years in the construction trades. That ridge cap is what is going to cause problems first. If it doesn't blow to hard when it rains it might work.....Good Luck
More than one way to skin a cat. I glued some kitchen cabinets to drywall and everyone said it would come down and won't support the weight its been there since 2006 i moved from that apartment and the new tenants are using it
@@divinee.155mama always said, stupid is is stupid does. 😅
I'm not a roofer or carpenter, but why do you need to add the 1x4 cross boards. Could you just use longer screws and screw the metal shingles over the existing shingles?
Yo thanks for this inspiring video I will start my project in the next 30 days
Hey thanks glad if it helps price of metal gone high check market place
@DannysCam yea I started gathering materials in December
So? The old shingles are still gonna age? Is it an issue down the road??
Do you need to silicon your screws?
Good job mate!
If you do yours like this man is teaching you to do you will severely screw it up the three-quarter inch boards won't have enough meat to hold screws and they will back out the condensation that occurs in the space left out of 3/4 inch boards will condensate and will Rust the metal
So I have a dumb question how is your roof supposed to breathe if you just covered the whole Vents and everything up. They put ridge vents on the top of roof for a reason.
You're a brave soul. I never would have posted a video of me doing a job like that. I do metal roofs. Your saving grace on that is the 3 layers of asphalt shingles under it.
Its all about the $ good job gotta do my roof soon
running lats with no underlayment? it may sweat and rot your decking out but with 3 layers you may luck out I hope so
Just one question why not use real ridge cap and vent
Would the wood strips be called "furring"?
Did you have to take some of the shingles off?
looks great good video
Nice work !.Please let me know which state are you in.Thanks
Wow. Great job!
I would periodically check the silicone. When it comes to water versus silicone, if left unattended, water always wins eventually.
Might sound silly, but flex seal is what I would probably use. I have sealed up exterior gaps a half inch or so wide that held for ten years. The stuff is crazy lol
so no reflective stuff between the metal and the shingles huh?
also.. aren't those leaves making your roof look bad after they leave that residue on it?
The roof slope looks shallow, I wonder what the ratio is 2:12?
It may b cheaper but you not only have the weight of the original shingles on your roof but you're adding even more weight by putting metal panels on as your new roof.