HAUTE COUTURE SPRING 2020 ROAST (gaultier is no more, dior sucks, and valentino kept me sane)
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- čas přidán 30. 01. 2020
- This season's Haute Couture collections were a little bit stagnant. So we obviously had to give them a review. Schiaparelli disappointed the house's founder Elsa, Iris Van Herpen explored crazy neurons, and Dior obviously sucked, even when Maria Grazia has good reference points. Chanel took us on a journey of the orphanage where Coco grew up, and Givenchy was a nice display of simple yet effective couture. We then got into Valentino's tight little collection, and bid adieu to the fashion legend Jean Paul Gaultier, as he will no longer be designing for his eponymous label.
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Dude. Iris’ collection makes me want to be filthy rich so I can wear this every day and have people gag and clap when I walk by
Yes, YES!!!
Ikr!!!
It made me appreciate that Valerian movie!
True
That’s the dreammmmmm
iris purposely created 'ugly' and 'scary' looks to portray the mysteriousness of water
Matthew Voeltz To me they are so beautifull, BUT tend to like things that people reject so i get you.
What I saw was absolute opposite of "ugly". Can't say anything about "scary" because different people are scared by different things but I am sure that wasn't the designer's intention.
The black and white piano dress with fabric draping out of those holes doesn't look appealing to me. I didn't even expect a piece like that from Iris.
megh voluntad so true, doesn’t match with the rest of the collection, nor fit well, nor tell nothing about the main story....didn’t like it as well.
LMB Mua I agree and found the dresses to be breathtaking in silhouette, technical genius, and unlike anything anyone else is doing.
Iris van herpen - i see it more as literally sense "sensory seas" using the world's seas and creatures inspire the clothing as well. I saw lion fish, feather tube worms, the waves of the ocean chaotic ,docile, loud and intricate
I really enjoyed this collection and thought it was gorgeous.
@@blktauna i agree like just hmmmm it makes me curious as to want to feel the clothing as well as wear them . Like the ocean its both beautiful and dangerous *poison animals and rough ocean. The clothing reflects it not just in shapes/texture but as well as the color. Reminds me of Alexander McQueen his collection atlantis*i think with the armadillo shoes and outfits ..concept but a whole different view
It was so beautiful! I kept thinking, this is what a boho lady who is on a galactic voyage to Fhloston Paradise would be wearing.
I agree - I took the name more literally and saw the same thing. I agree with Luke though, the reverse box pleat dress wasn't my favorite. But I loved, loved, loved the collection.
@@mnels5214 yup i was thinking the same thing, but over all...it was a toot! Still the best part of couture week.
Iris Van Herpen blows everyone out of the water. Dior is a mess.
What you said.
Correct take
Controversial/Unpopular opinion: hasn't been good since Galliano
J. Bee exactly. Too bad he didn’t keep his mouth shut
@@imanialexander7042 his mouth shut wdym? Did he say anything to get him fired?
Luke saying that the ivh collection is 'disturbing' reminds me of when critics would clutch their pearls at Alexander mcqueen shows. Like have your own opinions but..... let it be disturbing
Rt I don't know how he can praise McQueen collections for being hauntingly beautiful/strange and then turn around and critique IVH for doing the same (especially since her work is heavily influenced by McQueen). To call the looks ugly and then not give them any further thought bewildered me.
So true
It's weird that anyone would be disturbed by fashion considering all the truly disturbing horrible stuff that happens in the world.
Oh Luc, no no no, the Iris collection was glorious. Scary and ugly? I’m crying at your review. 😭
Yes
I agree! It was beautiful.
It was gorgeous
I totally agree! the only thing I didn’t like was the tubular sleeve eel dresses. Everything else was beautiful if not more than just beautiful. ^^
@@magnisky I kinda did want to throw up at the tube thingys. It looked like sliced intestines lol.
The veins on Iris’s dresses are honestly disturbingly beautiful so I’m def not disappointed
As a biology major, the "organic tissue" print reminded me of the histology slides that I used to work with in my anatomy lab class. I also saw references to the colors of the coral reef, riftia tube worms, lionfish, fish skeletons, angelfish, asymmetrical white coral and the unpredictable ocean waves, to name a few... which would make sense since the collection is called "Sensory Seas".
I personally love every single Iris van Herpen piece in this collection, and I found the execution to be perfect. It's a perfect blend of science, art, and fashion (all three of my loves in one 💕)!
I really need the world to understand that that “organic tissue” is based on the mother of pearl pattern of an abalone shell.
Some of the prints IVH used was from an artist you can see on instagram. Her name is sheelyart. Her work is absolutely stunning!
At this point I can only trust Iris Van Herpen
Purnima Gurung Guo Pei is a lot of fun if you haven’t checked into her. She’s a little hit or miss but her last two collections were fantastic
Umm sorry for my late comment. But you should check out Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab and Gorges Hobeika. Lebanese designers are good at creating wearable beautiful couture dresses.
@@shweyeemin1480 Elie Saab and zuhair murad hasn't created anything that much new or interesting since 2015 in my idea it's like every year it's just done repetitive glitter and huge dresses collection designs even the designs aren't that much pretty compared to it's past.
The "WOW - never seen anything likethat before" gave me "florals...in spring? groundbreaking" vibes.
he is the miranda priestly of youtube
it gave me “OH SHE INVENTED STRIPES” vibes
the roast of the van herpen dresses hurt my soul... i thought they were beautiful!
They were all beyond beautiful. My eyes had multiple orgasms and I stopped breathing a few times while watching.
It took my imagination to the dark sea. It was an amazing collection!
They were gorgeous. Scarily so 😎😍
For real...
and they are , the video is just an opinon like yours , both are valid , we dont have to think all the same :)
It`s kinda crazy to me that he disliked most the IvH looks that I loved. Also the final IvH look kind of reminded me of a picture of a butterfly, flapping its wings, which is so fascinating to me.
It reminded me of a lionfish 🙂
I could not like those tubes no matter how hard I try.
I, as a medicine student, loved it, especially because of the layering and the tubes, because that is just how it looks under the microscope.
@@tychowozniaki9269 I'm a biology major 🙂 plus I've always preferred more organic shapes. It looks like they are turning into the dresses almost or the dresses are devouring them. I LIVE.
I saw a beautiful blue butterfly too ✨🦋 i love her work, its as if the clothes are alive! They breathe and move, some look like they’re sea creatures flowing through water🐠and others as if they’re winged or feathered creatures shivering in the wind or air 🌬🦚
Still stand by the statement that iris van Herpen never dissapointment. Her spring collection 2020 is one of her best works yet. Im def to what you said. Sensory seas is piece of artwork. MASTERPIECE. You can totally see the inspiration of sea from it. The skeleton or bones of fishes, coral read reference. Lion fish reference. Sea bubbles. It showed the depth of the sea. Not just mere fashion, she took it to another level. I'll say her work is much ahead of its time and people fail to see it.
1:09 Schiaparelli
8:09 Iris Van Herpen "Sensory Seas"
15:32 Christian Dior
21:48 Chanel
28:54 Givenchy
35:09 Valentino
41:51 Jean Paul Gaultier
thank you!
Bless you!!!!
Thank you! Coz IVH is all that i care about.
Now I can skip dior, thank you very much!
Thank you. I couldn't take anymore of Chanel. A huge disappointment😒
Maria Grazia:breaths
Luke: I hate it
And i liiiiiiiiiiive drag heeeeeer😍😍😍
I really enjoyed iris van herpen's work this season, I know the dresses were a little too biological but I thought they were beautiful at the same time
They were sea inspired. I saw lots of colourful sea creatures, sea foam and waves.
@@aumelb they remind me of Mcqueen's Atlantis collection
“The show that we must discuss is Dior and I really don’t wanna talk about it cause I feel like I have better things to do like bashing my head into a wall or letting myself get bitten by a poisonous insect but...”
Sensory Seas is everything to me, this collection is the meeting point of grafeul beauty and technical talent
As an art student who learned about Judy Chicago's line of work and themes through my art high school and local museums, I was SHAKING at what Maria Grazia put together. The ONLY THING about this collection that made me think of her work were the ONLY TWO rope-like tops that resembled the organic lines and patterns Judy creates in her sprayed acrylic pieces. The only reason I can think of for the overly gold palette of this collection is Judy's installation artwork called "Dinner Party", regarded as the first major feminist artwork. The main colors for that installation do lean towards beige, gold, and ivory, but with pops of color here and there. But honestly THATS ALL I GOT. This collection was so disrespectful to Judy's work and importance as an artist, as well as being an integral figure for the feminist movement
everyone: why do you pronounce haute and haute different!!??
luke: Do I contradict myself?
Very well then I contradict myself,
(I am large, I contain multitudes.)
(Walt Whitman)
Hold up, did Walt Whitman just get quoted to make a really quite good joke.... What is going on here?
Great minds think alike! Such an incredible poet, Whitman.
Willy wonka?
the Iris van herpen pieces with the veins were gORGEOUS. they were disturbing yet so beautiful, i just love them.
bruh iris' collection gives such ethereal vibes it literally felt like the dresses would fit in perfectly in underwater ocean like I was just thinking of someone swimming in those dresses along with fishes and how they'd prolly look like some out of this world mermaid
Iris Van Herpen, Guo Pei and Valentino
never disappoint me
Daniel PERIODTTTTTTT
when i die i want to be reincarnated as the little kid front row at the Givenchy show wearing a Givenchy beanie and taking pictures on a pink polaroid camera
Do you have a timestamp I cant find the kid
@@saraashkir5793 31:39 you can see him, hes all the way throughout the givenchy show
You'd probably have to live an exemplary life to be that kid
i honestly enjoyed the whole of IVH's runway looks. probably just a biology nerd but it was such a cool collection tho i understand if luke disliked certain pieces.
i felt all those comments for the dior looks tho. they were basically trash.
IVH vien looking dresses were beautiful. You said it looked like viens its gross. You have to unlock your brain sometimes to see beauty, you were taught by society from a very young age to consider what is gross, what is beautiful or what is ugly. If you are an artist, with age you start to appreciate all sorts of beauty, in time you will understand this. Sorry i dont speak english so i dont know if you will understand my point.
tetrulz jam true tea
I totally agree, I loved it, so haunting and interesting!
I agree. That black dress was amazing!!!
I get it👍
Beautifully explained 😊
luke: drops fashion wisdom
me, in bed, in a hoodie and sweats: nods knowingly
Actually even me who's not a really big fashion conaisseur could see how bad the Dior collection was... like how the hell could this even end on a runway ??
I know the reacting to celeb fashion videos brings the coin but I've always loved these season recaps the most: they help me appreciate an industry I wouldn't understand otherwise.
In all honesty, the Haute Couture week was a BOREFEST. The only shows worth watching were Iris Van Herpen (per usual), Alexandre Vauthier, Guo Pei, and Jean Paul Gaultier.
But Jean Paul Gaultier’s show was a meh comparing it to be his LAST show... I needed a little bit more from him but anyways
The JPG show was trying so hard to give you Thiery Mugler Couture 95.
ellie saab was gorgeous
Guo Pei appreciation!! their looks are stunning everytime
Emma Whyte didn’t really had the time to watch it but i’m gonna watch it now
All i can see with IVH's collection are lion fish, sea dragon fins, waves and cells . DIVINE!!!!
Valentino always comes through for Haute Couture. Always has the most divine and beautifully created clothing. So exquisite and elegant and even though I’ll never own a piece I’m happy and satisfied just being able to witness them
I know it's a bit shallow but I thought the staging for Givenchy, with the musicians playing on platforms above the runway was BEAUTIFUL. I know it's only the clothes that should matter, but that show was an experience.
Megan Nelson I agree, and I am a show designer and producer.
This ... keeps me sane during exam month.
Also, on a complete side note, would you ever consider doing a video about Elle Fanning and her looks, idk why but she always looks so ethereal, like, her Dior look at Cannes...stunning.
The Sciaparelli looked like the preschool kids version of Iris’s collection.
Iris is doing now what Elsa did back then..
Iris is Elsa's reincarnation no cap.
14:15 That dress is perfect for something like the Oscars. Ughh Hollywood stylists please dress your clients in some good IVH clothes instead of that Dior or D&G garbage.
Gwendoline Christie could definitely rock that! She wore lots of IvH dresses so I wouldn't be surprised :)
Could definitely see it on Cate Blanchett!
@@ardianworld4129 That dress screams Gwendoline Christie lmao
@@meatysheep Ooohhh yes!!! She is an actress who actually takes risks with her fashion too.
D&G's Alta Moda (and Alta Sartoria) were actually good
all of iris van herpans’ work this season were spectacular
I couldn't disagree more with some of your opinions on IVH this season. This IVH collection was beautiful and ethereal, definitely my favorite collection from her by FAR. This collection was clearly very influenced by McQueen, known for his beautiful yet haunting or disturbing garments. Not sure why you see that as a negative here, and I honestly didn't find any of the pieces ugly to begin with. For me the collection killed and every piece worked really well.
I love Grotesque, the veins on Iris Van Herpen made my Gothic heart smiles (only the red and purple)
The girlfriend of a gladiator...I died. I have to say that Van Herpen's collection IS stunning. Many references to sea creatures, the all white creation is sublime.
Iris Van Herpen never fails to stun me, even ones that you saw as misses I saw as hits... its just mesmerising to me no matter what lol
The moment when you understand that Luke don’t know Star Wars industry news. Because, honey, Lucas sold SW to Disney a long long time ago)
P.S. When i first watch IVH collection, it gave me vibes of very deep ocean life. Definitely not the neurons.
really? cause the first thing i thought of when i saw herpens collection was axons n neurons warping around each other.
the sea aspect probably came from all the blues n purples that she used bc it honestly also reminds me of mollusks and chondrichthyes. but even then it still reminded me of nerve cells.
@UCsDb5ThVhbEOcB7Cbmfny0w I think that's what was great about the collection, and maybe her big insight? The looks totally made sense as both.
Megan Nelson i just didn’t know the concept. But yes, both of them make sense)
The Gaultier was all upcycled, it was supposed to be inspiration for future design to use what you already have.
Iris Van Herpen is one of my favorite artists.
I think the IVH prints looked more oceanic than organic. I honestly don't mind it and i thought these were her best color work yet.
I saw the whole time frills. So I go with your suggestion of oceanic creatures.
I wish Iris Van Herpen would make men's clothes too. It would be interesting to see men in such ethereal outfit
I'm surprised Luke didn't like IVH collection, it's glorious! The theme is "sensory seas" so I find the collection quite fitting.
Also, could you react to some of the looks in Tan France's new show Next In Fashion?
The Dior rant has brighten my weekend, "Always with the belt!"
Luke really went in on Maria Grazia today..... as he should!
I was like oh, cool, Judy Chicago references, and they never came. I don't understand.
gisforgary I honestly think she is just trolling us at this point
Me personally, I LOVED every peace of Iris Van Herpen.
Has the style of runway walking changed of the last year or so because it seems like more than half the models shown walk so stiff and with their arms stuck to their sides. I get that its meant to be subtle so you focus on the clothing and not the person wearing it but damn, are they not allowed to breath at all..?
I blame Karl Lagerfeld and MGC. I miss Naomi-like sassy walks.
Lauren Julia It changed about 20 years ago.
@@cooperbt more like 10 years ago. Look up for some 2008 fashion show videos, all models had great walks with hip movement and arms way less stiff than now ( it would definitely look weird in the street but showcased the clothes well). Now it's not about movement but about the picture, which is why models are asked to not move their arms on the runway.
cyrielle _ The arms are supposed bounce with the walk. In 2008, the only model who stomped it out in all of the major shows was Gisele. Not trying to sound like a pretentious prick, but between 2000 and 2008 my job included attending NY, Paris, and Milan fashion weeks each season, and the majority of models walked like this then. The whole “models are just coat hangers” movement.
@@cooperbt Natasha Poly didn't stomp in 2008? Didn't she move her arms more than what we're seeing now?
lol the Dior collection looks like shes making costumes for an Indiana Jones movie XD
Edit: i literally wrote that before you made the reference DEADDD
Dude, you totally missed the point of IVH. I'm surprised because you usually get the art in her pieces as well as the inspiration being so literal.
"Tears? I'm an Aquarius, doesn't exist."
sis mood
The Chanel layered dress with the hip belt creating a “pooch” is called blouson.
Your Dior rant made my whole week
Absolutely LIVING for the IVH looks. Definitely hit the nail on the head for the ocean theme. The shapes and colours were on point for the ocean. Honestly if you Google some seaweed swaying in current, white corals and some dramatic ass fish like lion fish you'll really appreciate how they some how managed to echo that in clothing. SLAYED
Dior is so lackluster now ESPECIALLY haute couture. Here’s my take on Maria Chiuri for Dior: great designer/ creative director but NOT for Dior, she’s be better for another brand that’s more on the softer, delicate side. Dior’s old ready to wear collections looks better than the some of the haute couture now, I mean come on a now a peplum top and suit pant for haute couture???!!!!!!. I will always stan John Galliano for Dior 😍😍. I hope to get my hands on some of his pieces in the future as I get the money to do so.
"remnants of seamen in a chanel haute couture gown" words i never thought i would hear in my lifetime
And who doesn't love semen?
The Dior collection looks like a costume design for "Xena Warrior Princess"... cheap 😂
Ehm, excuse me. Xena is better than this.
Don't do Xena like this. She deserves better.
The fucking tapestry at the back looks like its from forever 21.
I would love a review of Next in Fashion, there were some very good moments there!
I'll save you time, Luke's going to say everything is ugly and everybody needs to get their eyes checked 😉
The bubble-like look from IVH got a reaction out of me😍😱🤩 I think I might have a heart attack I’m so happy.
IVH omg that was a trip and I loved it. I do agree with some of the ones you werent feeling, but I mean wow those others that were stand out pieces were gorgeous.
I was waiting for you to comment about Iris Van Herpen!
I was gagged when I saw the first look of the iris van herpen show UGH. This woman, she really makes every single piece special.
"why must you ruin everything sacred...especially the house of dior" omg🤣
That show was awful tho
Iris van Herpen proved once again that she is a genius and honestly no one is at her level atm. She surpassed McQueen's Atlantis with this imo. The creativity, thought, art, skill, research, precision, craftmanship that goes into her every single collection is unmatched. All the big, old couture fashion houses can hide in shame.
X marks the spot where we should just rip the dress apart. -Luke2020
🤣🤣🤣
Lol” for the gladiator girlfriend “, who died on this with me 😂😂
The IVH show was an extraordinary experience to watch. The best thing I've seen in a while.
Thank you for continuing to upload these types of videos! I've learned so much about contemporary fashion and fashion history from you.
Your genuine reverence for fashion mixed with your firey commentary is so good. Love your work, Luke
Are you going to do another video on the met gala 2020 theme this year? (Obviously when it gets closer to that time).
I found it to be very helpful and informative last year. Also, it lets me know what to expect and look for (if people follow the theme).
That blue Valentino Sequin gown LITERALLY brought me to tears. *chefs kiss*
Hun! Thanks to you i’ve learn so much!
We need a new trends or a not so basic basics or something like that. Your commentary its super on point
As a biologist who loves fashion, IVH has made me very happy. (edit: also loves sci-fi)
i need a muslim celebrity to wear that hooded purple Valentino gown this instant
Iris Van Herpen’s collection was fire ur insane lmao
The amount of care and time you put into your work is so good. 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
i love these videos so much but i just took a 20 minute nap to the first half of this and honestly? best nap ever
The IVH collection was so ethereal.
Really surprised by his reaction to iris.. her show was amazing the prints were so weird and beautiful. "disgusting" in the best kind of way
Living for the new microphone!!! This audio really just ups the production quality so much & takes your (already great) videos to the next level
I can tell you didn't do a proper research and documentation of every collection especially IvH.
Sorry, xxx
Good heavens I'm early! The most delightful way to end the week! Thanks for never failing us Luke😍💖
The notion that some pieces in IVH’s work this season have been disturbing feels like it would have been the same gut reaction to McQueen’s Horn of Plenty in 2009. It’s terrifying, and disturbing but if we treat fashion as art then its purpose isn’t to always look beautiful and be pleasant. Since expressionist days art has been meant to move and express ideas that aren’t necessarily transferable in words. So the chilling pieces serve a unique purpose just as much as the ethereal, gorgeous ones. but anyway is Dior ok 🤭
Hi Luke, thank you so much for taking the time to review these collections and to do your research and give educated views, it's so enlightening and much appreciated.
I live for your Maria Grazia roasts, and this was one of the best yet!
I'm so happy. The purple dress with the lilac opera gloves when I saw it, I was like I feel like Luke would appreciate those gloves.. so glad I was right.
As a regular person, I ❤️ all the Iris collection. Can you imagine all that work?!
I loved this style of video!! Watching the runway shows was such a treat, so many of the pieces were absolutely stunning!! Your commentary is great too. I feel like I learn about fashion from your videos 👌🏼
When I saw the Givenchy belts I thought for sure you’d roast the show, which I dreaded bc honestly it was the best thing I’ve seen in a while.
I saw a beautiful coral reef (a lot of dresses were reminiscent of exotic fish; the bubble yellow gown - a lion fish etc) and deep underwater darkness in IvH's collection, the neuron/plankton stuff is news to me, but I think it all works! Loved it.
The "lion fish" dress reminded me more of a leafy sea dragon. It's a subspecies of seahorse that lives only in Australian waters.
Oooooh, totally! So beautiful
Iris can NEVER disappoint me
I've been waiting for the whole video ever since your ig stories&reactions! Ty
Oh my god, the van herpen show was incredible, everything was so beautifull. I loved the "organic print" in blue, it reminds me of a dream or deep sea colors. Her collection is so poetic, except of the "eel dress"
Yessss! i love that you included the iris van herpen thing
Here we STAN iris van herpen
I want to see a video of you and your favorite fashion looks :) it's fun seeing you split designers who deserve it a new a hole, but I'd love to hear your POV on good fashion
Patiently waited for this video. Did not disappoint.