@@ChemKnitsTutorials can you talk about the types of food colouring, gel, liquid or powder? I can not seem to find powder food dyes mainly gel. What do you think is best. Thank you
This was great. I'm a little behind on getting through your videos but I'm very methodical ;-) This one I feel was particularly eductational. My mother in law passed away this past year. She went through a cake decorating phase and I came across a bunch of food coloring. Wasn't sure what I was going to do with it but this was an inspiration!
Great video. I agree that the new formulation makes a fantastic gradient. For people who are wondering how to get a true black: Unfortunately, there currently isn't a food color that is solely out of black dye. It's always a combination of colors to get an approximation and they rely on concentration of dye to get the "black" color. That's why things colored with black dye often taste horrible. But you can still get a deep consistent color if you do a couple things in a particular order. The great thing about acid dying is that you can achieve different color effects by changing the order you introduce the solution elements to your fiber. If you follow the process outlined below you should get a more even/solid color which will help keep your blacks black and violets violet. 1. Pre-soak your yarn/fiber. Pre-soaking in this instance will allow the dye to enter the fiber without resistance. 2. Use a HUGE pot. You want the yarn to have the maximum amount of room to swim. Do not over pack your pot. 3. Let your yarn soak in the dye solution WITHOUT the acid or heat. Let it soak up as much of the dye into the fiber before setting the dye in place. There will still be plenty of dye in the water that will bind later but letting dye settle into the fiber will help with consistency. 4. Add your acid, stir gently to incorporate it. DO NOT add the acid to a hot pot. This will cause the dye to strike instantly to where ever the acid touches first and you will get uneven results. This is useful for tonal dying but not if you are trying to keep a dye from breaking. 5. SLOWLY turn up the heat to just below simmer and let it rest there until the dye clears from the water. If you have enough acid this shouldn't take long. If you didn't add enough dye or want a deeper color rinse your yarn and repeat steps 3-5 with fresh water. If you just add more dye straight to the pot the already present acid and heat will cause breaking.
So interesting to see how the different colours develop in time. The 'new' wiltons skein is beautiful. I have some undyed fibre to dye and have some food colouring. As soon as the distilled white vinegar I have ordered come I will be able to experiment. You make it look so easy but I am sure I will find it difficult not to get into a mess!
The stamped numbers on Wilton is their production date code in Julian calendar (yyddd). So "18319" would be Nov 15, 2018 because it's the 319th day of the year 2018.
I wonder what the yarn would look like if you were to rotate it during the dipping process, so that one third, for example, was the first dipping bit, the second third was the middle dipping, and the final third was the last dipping.
This was pretty cool. In all instances you got a different yarn. It would be neat to see what you would get if you added black to the Violet to mute it down a bit.
Thanks for sharing this! I love watching your dying videos! I recently dip dyed some yarns using your tutorial, one with Wilton's violet and one with their delphinium blue and am working on knitting them up into socks. As always I can't wait for your next dying experiment!
Hi, I watched last night. Soaked my yarn all night any way. I did exactly what you did. My skein turned BLACK! Lol I had to leave the top blank and add some green and blue to give some unique quality to my skein. I guessed my only difference is the yarn's not 100% wool, but a touch of silk in it from Knitpicks bare DK line. It's an amazing black with McCormicks.
Silk takes up food coloring dye beautifully, too. How much dye did you use? I have yet to get a true black, but even with 1/2 tsp of wilton's black (more than used here) I can end up with a very dark maroon. I'm going to go for a black at some point. (Also, I used a new formulation of Wilton's black but I haven't checked McCormick's in a while. My bottle is very old!)
I am also a beginner and i seen one of your video's with the purple. So i gave it a go and it came out lovely! Thanks for sharing :). I do use both wiltons and the protein dyes.
This was such a fun experiment to follow along with - thank you! I love how all the colorways turned out. It's truly amazing how differently the various formulas break. I'd like to try the same thing with black acid dyes just for you-know-whats & giggles ;-)
Add some more vinegar and that should help. With blacks I now start with 2 T vinegar in 8-10 cups water and then add another 1-2 T after the red is gone to help the final blues absorb.
ChemKnits Tutorials tried that and it helped. So then I tried transferring it to the microwave and got more gone but it just isn’t going clear. If I Just let it set in it’s own juices will it continue to absorb even with no heat? Because I am afraid I am going to fry the yarn
Sometimes there is just a little blue left over. But letting the yarn cool off in the pot can definitely help the yarn absorb some off the final color.
Have you ever thought of using an iron sulfate instead of vinegar for the activator??? You can see great grays not sure what it would do to black. Especially with one that wants to break.
Something you have mentioned in other videos, and apparently forgot about now, is the different rates of absorption of various colours. You know that yellow will "take" almost immediately, followed closely by red. They do absorb slowly after that, but initially, they grab really fast. Blue takes much, much longer to absorb for some reason. Knowing this, when you do a quick dip in the hot water, as you did here, you will get the first colours grabbing quickly -- as you noted. But to get the FULL and complete colour of the dye, you need to allow the full time -- to allow the blue to absorb as well. Otherwise, you get an off-shade. Sometimes a nice shade too, but not as expected. Fading -- and bleaching -- happens in reverse. The blue fades quickly, followed by red much later on, and finally the yellow, although the fabrics are long gone before it gets to yellow! Yes, red fads fast, but not completely. Blue is gone in a couple of washes. The same thing applies to hair colouring as well.[We need to know this information] When you apply a hair colour (no such thing as "hair dye"), the yellow and red absorb quickly (usually already present in the hair) and the blue develops much later. [Most browns (hair colouring) do not contain much yellow in them; that should be present in most hair] Most people doing their colour at home will wash it off too soon (for whatever reason) and then are shocked to see orange or red... because they didn't allow enough time for the blue to take! They then blame the product -- when in fact, it was poor workmanship. If there is some blue in the hair at first, it washes out very fast, and you are left with 'brassy' tones.... not the prettiest! When bleaching hair or fabric, the blue comes out quite fast, followed much later by the red (can be very stubborn), and finally the yellow (hair is never bleached totally white without extensive damage to hair). If you only bleach the hair partially, you will end up with orange (red and yellow, minus the blue) which should not be surprising. And how many times have you seen people actually going out in public with orange [bleached] hair? Have pity on them' they just don't know any better. But you do!!!
Another great experiment! I Love It and it's so interesting! Thanks again for sharing! I'm eager to see what you do in the future! But, by no means am I trying to rush you- I know you are a busy wife and mother above all else! Take Care
Awe, thank you! I have a new video coming out next week where I get completely speechless in the middle. :) I have some exciting things planned that will (hopefully) work out.
wonderful work, as usual ... so pleasant to watch and listen to you ... thank you. Wonder what would happen if you doubled or tripled the amount of food coloring, would it be closer to black overtones? and if you just put it in the pot without dipping, what color would it be just black-ish??
I've heard red dyes "gel" the worst, and that's what seems to be happening with the Red # 3 in your old Wilton's black formula and basically whenever you see the color sticking to the side of the pot or making a film. If you use urea, it helps keep the dye from gelling and helps suspend the color so it gets the dye into your fiber.
I experienced breaking and inconsistent color with gel red too but I tried the new Wiltons liquid dye in Crimson and got a beautiful red. Now I just need to find a way to turn it more maroon :)
I wondered, in the case where you wish to achieve a solid color (your gradient are beautiful, but I’m courious ), if you put your yarn all in the start, will it work?
You can, but it is hard with food coloring because red #3 strikes SO FASt with very little acid. Start cold and with a LOT of water and no acid. Add presoaked yarn and stir a lot. Then remove the yarn, add vinegar (still cold) and then stir more and slowly heat up.
That's a good question... and I don't have a good answer. I know that it would be useful for me to use superwash when I make accessories for the boys... but for some reason I gravitate to non-superwash wools. I think superwash wools would work great for dyeing, and there would certainly be less risk of felting.
Great question! I prefer to add vinegar to the presoak when I'm handpainting yarn. Especially if I'm adding dye that I haven't mixed myself (sprinkles, sprays, etc.) I add vinegar to the dyebath when I am kettle dyeing, dip dyeing, etc because I feel that the residual acid would get super diluted if it was only in the presoak. I suppose you could also add the vinegar in the presoak, but I haven't found that to be necessary.
Love your inspiring videos! I want to die a skein of 100% wool (non super wash) yarn for a felted crochet toy project. Do you think the color will hold up in multiple washings during the felting process or should I die the completed project after it's felted? I'll be using the Wilton's violet gel dye for the first time. Thank you for sharing your fun experiments with us! Hugs, Vina
I have felted 100% wool that I dyed. www.chemknits.com/2009/10/housewarming-oven-mitts.html Some of the colors held up better during the felting than others. I had some bleeding (from both commercial colors and the ones that I dyed.) As for washing I've seen no fading: czcams.com/video/oftsMXnzrug/video.html
I've had a bunch of Wilton's color in storage for about 6 years. Do you think that drastic weather changes might affect how the dye molecules work? I live in TX and summers can get over 100 and winters can get into the low 20s. I was thinking of getting some bare yarns and trying them out.
The "old" wilton's black in this video is at least 8 years old, and has been stored in a variety of different conditions, moved on moving trucks cross country (twice) etc. It is possible that it wouldn't work quite as well as new, but I have had good success even with the old food colorings.
Great question! It depends on my mood honestly. If you want things to strike faster, then adding acid to the presoak and the pot helps. Some clear things - if I'm going to hand paint on the counter and then steam - I ALWAYS presoak with acid. I prefer that to mixing the acid in with the dyes.
Hi Gail, As you can see from the video you do end up with a lot of purple from Wilton's black versus a true black. I only once got more of a "true black" out of wilton's black. How much food coloring are you using? Are you dip dyeing or kettle dyeing? Try increasing your food coloring. In this video: czcams.com/video/sy-m5H9nHQo/video.html I mixed 1/2 tsp Wilton's black in 2/3 cups of water and used that to handpaint the yarn. In spots the yarn actually looked black when it was finished, I was amazed. Here are the results from that day: czcams.com/video/T3CfPM7qOS4/video.html
And the "black" in that video is more of a deep maroon with some hints of a black. Maybe doubling the food coloring would help reach a true black. (Or else, I recommend trying commercial acid dyes.)
More acid makes the colors strike faster, so it can make it harder to see the breaking. Here is a video where I look more at the pH and dip dyeing to break colors: czcams.com/video/LAv3xOaIynY/video.html
The food coloring I buy is manufactured in the United States. You can find Wilton icing colors at a lot of big box craft stores (ACMoore, Michaels, Jo Ann Fabrics) and online at the wilton website.
I really enjoy the videos and info you give...but the uptalk and voice fry are very distracting. I would love if she jyst spoke in her natural voice instead of the "frog croak" she throws into her delivery. Otherwise, love the topic
I love how methodical your videos are. Like, you explain EVERYTHING so it's so easy to follow.
Thank you! I sure do explain EVERYTHING. That's why they're so long. ;)
@@ChemKnitsTutorials can you talk about the types of food colouring, gel, liquid or powder? I can not seem to find powder food dyes mainly gel. What do you think is best. Thank you
This was great. I'm a little behind on getting through your videos but I'm very methodical ;-) This one I feel was particularly eductational. My mother in law passed away this past year. She went through a cake decorating phase and I came across a bunch of food coloring. Wasn't sure what I was going to do with it but this was an inspiration!
Great video. I agree that the new formulation makes a fantastic gradient.
For people who are wondering how to get a true black: Unfortunately, there currently isn't a food color that is solely out of black dye. It's always a combination of colors to get an approximation and they rely on concentration of dye to get the "black" color. That's why things colored with black dye often taste horrible.
But you can still get a deep consistent color if you do a couple things in a particular order. The great thing about acid dying is that you can achieve different color effects by changing the order you introduce the solution elements to your fiber. If you follow the process outlined below you should get a more even/solid color which will help keep your blacks black and violets violet.
1. Pre-soak your yarn/fiber. Pre-soaking in this instance will allow the dye to enter the fiber without resistance.
2. Use a HUGE pot. You want the yarn to have the maximum amount of room to swim. Do not over pack your pot.
3. Let your yarn soak in the dye solution WITHOUT the acid or heat. Let it soak up as much of the dye into the fiber before setting the dye in place. There will still be plenty of dye in the water that will bind later but letting dye settle into the fiber will help with consistency.
4. Add your acid, stir gently to incorporate it. DO NOT add the acid to a hot pot. This will cause the dye to strike instantly to where ever the acid touches first and you will get uneven results. This is useful for tonal dying but not if you are trying to keep a dye from breaking.
5. SLOWLY turn up the heat to just below simmer and let it rest there until the dye clears from the water. If you have enough acid this shouldn't take long.
If you didn't add enough dye or want a deeper color rinse your yarn and repeat steps 3-5 with fresh water. If you just add more dye straight to the pot the already present acid and heat will cause breaking.
Great tips! I tend to use low water volumes because I want the variation but I might have to do some solids videos sometime. :)
So interesting to see how the different colours develop in time. The 'new' wiltons skein is beautiful. I have some undyed fibre to dye and have some food colouring. As soon as the distilled white vinegar I have ordered come I will be able to experiment. You make it look so easy but I am sure I will find it difficult not to get into a mess!
The stamped numbers on Wilton is their production date code in Julian calendar (yyddd). So "18319" would be Nov 15, 2018 because it's the 319th day of the year 2018.
Thank you!
I wonder what the yarn would look like if you were to rotate it during the dipping process, so that one third, for example, was the first dipping bit, the second third was the middle dipping, and the final third was the last dipping.
This was pretty cool. In all instances you got a different yarn. It would be neat to see what you would get if you added black to the Violet to mute it down a bit.
I LOVE the combination of black and violet! I"m not sure if I've got a clear example off the top of my head though...
These are absolutely gourgeous 🤩
Thank you! 😊
I did this one with americolor black food coloring. Got a nice deep mahogany color with some flecks if black in it
I've been binge watching your tutorials and love them all. I'm so excited to do some experimenting with your techniques. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you so much, Susan, and good luck on your dyeing adventures!
I noticed the old Wilton releasing green as you were talking about it! Thanks for all your cool experiments in dyeing!
Thanks for sharing this! I love watching your dying videos! I recently dip dyed some yarns using your tutorial, one with Wilton's violet and one with their delphinium blue and am working on knitting them up into socks. As always I can't wait for your next dying experiment!
Hi, I watched last night. Soaked my yarn all night any way. I did exactly what you did. My skein turned BLACK! Lol I had to leave the top blank and add some green and blue to give some unique quality to my skein. I guessed my only difference is the yarn's not 100% wool, but a touch of silk in it from Knitpicks bare DK line. It's an amazing black with McCormicks.
Silk takes up food coloring dye beautifully, too. How much dye did you use? I have yet to get a true black, but even with 1/2 tsp of wilton's black (more than used here) I can end up with a very dark maroon. I'm going to go for a black at some point. (Also, I used a new formulation of Wilton's black but I haven't checked McCormick's in a while. My bottle is very old!)
I am also a beginner and i seen one of your video's with the purple. So i gave it a go and it came out lovely! Thanks for sharing :). I do use both wiltons and the protein dyes.
This was such a fun experiment to follow along with - thank you! I love how all the colorways turned out. It's truly amazing how differently the various formulas break. I'd like to try the same thing with black acid dyes just for you-know-whats & giggles ;-)
ME TOO! I hope to get a second set of pots etc so I can do some fun experiments with acid dyes. I also want to check out even more food colorings...
Beautiful!
Thank you! It's been a while since I've played with my icing colors, I should do more of it soon.
I am dying yarn by trying to break the black in just the pot to make speckled yarn and omg it is gorgeous!! Thank you for showing me how to do this!!
Oooo this would be lovely speckled!
ChemKnits Tutorials the blue doesn’t seem to be exhausting into the yarn... I’ve had it cooking for about 15 Minutes. Any suggestions?
Add some more vinegar and that should help. With blacks I now start with 2 T vinegar in 8-10 cups water and then add another 1-2 T after the red is gone to help the final blues absorb.
ChemKnits Tutorials tried that and it helped. So then I tried transferring it to the microwave and got more gone but it just isn’t going clear. If I Just let it set in it’s own juices will it continue to absorb even with no heat? Because I am afraid I am going to fry the yarn
Sometimes there is just a little blue left over. But letting the yarn cool off in the pot can definitely help the yarn absorb some off the final color.
Have you ever thought of using an iron sulfate instead of vinegar for the activator??? You can see great grays not sure what it would do to black. Especially with one that wants to break.
I haven't tried any kind of mordant with food coloring before.
This was so much fun to watch! :)
Something you have mentioned in other videos, and apparently forgot about now, is the different rates of absorption of various colours.
You know that yellow will "take" almost immediately, followed closely by red. They do absorb slowly after that, but initially, they grab really fast. Blue takes much, much longer to absorb for some reason.
Knowing this, when you do a quick dip in the hot water, as you did here, you will get the first colours grabbing quickly -- as you noted. But to get the FULL and complete colour of the dye, you need to allow the full time -- to allow the blue to absorb as well. Otherwise, you get an off-shade. Sometimes a nice shade too, but not as expected.
Fading -- and bleaching -- happens in reverse. The blue fades quickly, followed by red much later on, and finally the yellow, although the fabrics are long gone before it gets to yellow! Yes, red fads fast, but not completely. Blue is gone in a couple of washes.
The same thing applies to hair colouring as well.[We need to know this information] When you apply a hair colour (no such thing as "hair dye"), the yellow and red absorb quickly (usually already present in the hair) and the blue develops much later. [Most browns (hair colouring) do not contain much yellow in them; that should be present in most hair] Most people doing their colour at home will wash it off too soon (for whatever reason) and then are shocked to see orange or red... because they didn't allow enough time for the blue to take! They then blame the product -- when in fact, it was poor workmanship. If there is some blue in the hair at first, it washes out very fast, and you are left with 'brassy' tones.... not the prettiest!
When bleaching hair or fabric, the blue comes out quite fast, followed much later by the red (can be very stubborn), and finally the yellow (hair is never bleached totally white without extensive damage to hair). If you only bleach the hair partially, you will end up with orange (red and yellow, minus the blue) which should not be surprising. And how many times have you seen people actually going out in public with orange [bleached] hair? Have pity on them' they just don't know any better.
But you do!!!
That's amazing I'm actually going to try experiments to
You should! It is really fun to play around with it. Sometimes the results are really surprising and that is when I have the most fun. :)
Another great experiment! I Love It and it's so interesting! Thanks again for sharing! I'm eager to see what you do in the future! But, by no means am I trying to rush you- I know you are a busy wife and mother above all else! Take Care
Awe, thank you! I have a new video coming out next week where I get completely speechless in the middle. :) I have some exciting things planned that will (hopefully) work out.
wonderful work, as usual ... so pleasant to watch and listen to you ... thank you. Wonder what would happen if you doubled or tripled the amount of food coloring, would it be closer to black overtones? and if you just put it in the pot without dipping, what color would it be just black-ish??
I'll have to try it out! ;) I have a feeling that it would be brownish but I'm not totally sure.
I've heard red dyes "gel" the worst, and that's what seems to be happening with the Red # 3 in your old Wilton's black formula and basically whenever you see the color sticking to the side of the pot or making a film. If you use urea, it helps keep the dye from gelling and helps suspend the color so it gets the dye into your fiber.
I experienced breaking and inconsistent color with gel red too but I tried the new Wiltons liquid dye in Crimson and got a beautiful red. Now I just need to find a way to turn it more maroon :)
I wanted so badly for you to leave just the tips in to absorb the rest of the blue, lol
That would be a stunning way to highlight some more blue
I wondered, in the case where you wish to achieve a solid color (your gradient are beautiful, but I’m courious ), if you put your yarn all in the start, will it work?
You can, but it is hard with food coloring because red #3 strikes SO FASt with very little acid. Start cold and with a LOT of water and no acid. Add presoaked yarn and stir a lot. Then remove the yarn, add vinegar (still cold) and then stir more and slowly heat up.
ChemKnits Tutorials thanks a lot for those informations! :)
Love your videos. Just wondering why you dont use superwash
That's a good question... and I don't have a good answer. I know that it would be useful for me to use superwash when I make accessories for the boys... but for some reason I gravitate to non-superwash wools. I think superwash wools would work great for dyeing, and there would certainly be less risk of felting.
What do you know about using yarn pre-soaked in vinegar water as opposed to plain water? And, thank you so much for your videos!
Great question! I prefer to add vinegar to the presoak when I'm handpainting yarn. Especially if I'm adding dye that I haven't mixed myself (sprinkles, sprays, etc.) I add vinegar to the dyebath when I am kettle dyeing, dip dyeing, etc because I feel that the residual acid would get super diluted if it was only in the presoak. I suppose you could also add the vinegar in the presoak, but I haven't found that to be necessary.
Thank you so much! I love all of your videos and dying experiments and will be trying more of them tomorrow ;-)
In the pre-soak, she should also use a drop or two of detergent. It makes the wool absorb water (and dye) better.
Love your inspiring videos! I want to die a skein of 100% wool (non super wash) yarn for a felted crochet toy project. Do you think the color will hold up in multiple washings during the felting process or should I die the completed project after it's felted? I'll be using the Wilton's violet gel dye for the first time. Thank you for sharing your fun experiments with us! Hugs, Vina
I have felted 100% wool that I dyed. www.chemknits.com/2009/10/housewarming-oven-mitts.html Some of the colors held up better during the felting than others. I had some bleeding (from both commercial colors and the ones that I dyed.)
As for washing I've seen no fading: czcams.com/video/oftsMXnzrug/video.html
Thank you so much for your helpful reply!! No matter the result, I think it will be a fun experiment!! Take care.. Vina
I've had a bunch of Wilton's color in storage for about 6 years. Do you think that drastic weather changes might affect how the dye molecules work? I live in TX and summers can get over 100 and winters can get into the low 20s. I was thinking of getting some bare yarns and trying them out.
The "old" wilton's black in this video is at least 8 years old, and has been stored in a variety of different conditions, moved on moving trucks cross country (twice) etc. It is possible that it wouldn't work quite as well as new, but I have had good success even with the old food colorings.
Why is it that some dyeing you do you put the vinegar right in the heating pot, and some you put the vinegar in with the soaking of the hank?
Great question! It depends on my mood honestly. If you want things to strike faster, then adding acid to the presoak and the pot helps.
Some clear things - if I'm going to hand paint on the counter and then steam - I ALWAYS presoak with acid. I prefer that to mixing the acid in with the dyes.
@@ChemKnitsTutorials THanks! I like your easy going mood. I clunk around the kitchen with confidence after watching your tutes!
that is exactly why I tell people that just because it's black doesn't mean it goes together, especially outside in natural light...
Can you do the same with cotton yarn?
Hi I just dyed my untreated fiber with Wilton black food coloring but it’s coming out purple
Hi Gail, As you can see from the video you do end up with a lot of purple from Wilton's black versus a true black. I only once got more of a "true black" out of wilton's black. How much food coloring are you using? Are you dip dyeing or kettle dyeing? Try increasing your food coloring.
In this video: czcams.com/video/sy-m5H9nHQo/video.html I mixed 1/2 tsp Wilton's black in 2/3 cups of water and used that to handpaint the yarn. In spots the yarn actually looked black when it was finished, I was amazed. Here are the results from that day: czcams.com/video/T3CfPM7qOS4/video.html
And the "black" in that video is more of a deep maroon with some hints of a black. Maybe doubling the food coloring would help reach a true black. (Or else, I recommend trying commercial acid dyes.)
Do you add room temperature yarn directly to the simmering water? Do you not have problems with felting?
Julia Eigenbrodt the yarn is at room temperature when I add it. I haven't had any felting issues so far. (if I did I would certainly show all of you!)
ChemKnits Tutorials thanks! Just wasn't sure if you were doing something else to keep it from felting or prewarming it or something and I'd missed it.
I'm glad you switched to plastic spoons, no more tapping.
does more acid make the colors break quicker?
More acid makes the colors strike faster, so it can make it harder to see the breaking. Here is a video where I look more at the pH and dip dyeing to break colors: czcams.com/video/LAv3xOaIynY/video.html
@@ChemKnitsTutorials Thank you. you have inspired me to try this, and I'm thinking of trying with wilton black or royal blue.
Would this happen with acid dyes too? Or just food coloring.
I don't know. I've never tried using acid dyes. I hope to experiment with those sometime!
Where can I buy the food dye, please?I really try your solution.
The food coloring I buy is manufactured in the United States. You can find Wilton icing colors at a lot of big box craft stores (ACMoore, Michaels, Jo Ann Fabrics) and online at the wilton website.
easier to measure - 3 tbs = 1/4 cup
That would be much easier. I usually stick with tablespoons so I don't have to do unit conversions when I compare different videos. ;)
For the rest of the world, that is 45 ml.
Oops. I meant "dye." :)
I really enjoy the videos and info you give...but the uptalk and voice fry are very distracting. I would love if she jyst spoke in her natural voice instead of the "frog croak" she throws into her delivery. Otherwise, love the topic
Kelly O'Brien, Kelly O’Briens was a bar in Prince George BC Canada.