A little tip from an avionics person that uses a Daniels Tool that is similar to this but of much higher quality...Put the crimp lug into the tool and pull it up to the detent on the die, and crimp down till the tool just holds it in place. Then jam your wire up into the lug and crimp it down. Less manipulation needed to hold 3 things with two hands that way.
I use similar tools for making flare fittings and such, sometimes, in off vehicle scenarios you can place the tool in a vice (gently of course) or an apparatus i created with rubber, hose clamps and a piece of 2x4 to put it in a vice. For production stuff this is awesome, and using your method of using jaws to initially hold the lug, it gets easier.
Great video on this tool I get the terminal set in the tool first and then push the wire in, makes it easier than lining up the terminal on the wire and hoping it doesn't get knocked sideways
Just a note when using this tool. Do not over pump the hydraulic fluid by putting too much force on the pump handle or you risk breaking the jaw that holds the crimp inserts. Just pump until it becomes firm.
Thanks for the great camera work. I suggest that forcing the crimp tighter with both hands should be avoided as this can result in over-compressing and breaking of wire strands.
What you are producing are not factory quality. I don't know if you are using metric lugs, or what,? but they do not fit those dies. A proper crimp, which "cold welds" all the strands uniformly to the lug and eliminates all air pockets, doesn't have wings like that. The dies are supposed to come together completely forming a perfect hexagon with no "wings." If you were to cut those crimps open, you would see air pockets in the cross section, between the strands and/or the lug itself, which will oxidize over time, as well as reduce the electrical conductivity greatly by reducing the area of contact between the conductor (wire) and the lug (termination). Those crimps are not a "gas tight" crimp, which is the goal in automotive cables. A factory, or perfect, crimp would show a cross section when cut open of one solid piece of copper, you would not be able to see or differentiate between single strands or the lug itself.
I was wondering about the wings as I bought this tool myself and am crimping a 6ga battery cable for a 1970 Honda cl175. The factory cable uses a barrel(?) style crimp the same as it does on the 18 ga connectors. Traditionalists would want the same style of crimp for restorations but I’m not even sure how to get ahold of does to crimp in this manner. My crimps on this 6ga ring terminals have the wings like on this video. Would crimping with the 4ga dies prevent winged crimps? Just thinking out loud. Thanks for he video to the OP.
Used an old bud nut, wheel weights and a torch. Put wheel weights in the Bud nut, use torch to heat it, dip the wire ends into the molten lead to Tin the ends. Makes for a long lasting connection.
Nice review of the tool. I however cut the cable insulation back a but more, then push the cable full forward into the cable end. I also do not twist the cable, If the cable is the same size as the end, as it should be, twisting the wires has no benefit, and it might be better to crimp with wires straight in, just like a factory made cable, but everyone has their way.......IMO........nice vid though
I was seriously considering buying this tool. It's about $70 at my local store. I need to replace several electrical connections on my car. I believe it would pay for itself after I make 2 cables vs. buying an set of own cables at the dealer.
We found these over crimp AWG 6 cable, and the hydraulic leaks after awhile. Suggest investing in a professional grade Crimper, you don't want heat due to voltage drops.
@@lizardking667 idk man, I’ve never had a voltage drop problem or loose connection yet. I’d go further to say you couldn’t get that cable end off the wire if you tried, after I crimped and soldered it.
I've had one of those since 2008. Seldom use it but its invaluable when I need it. Never had a crimp fail after crimping with this tool. I'd recommend using an alligator clip or something similar to hold the wire while you crimped it with 2 hands. Mine is so old the dies aren't magnetic.
Agreed but if it gets that hot theres another issue. Crimp and solder goves the best of both worlds. A quality crimp with a sealing heat shrink is all that is needed.
I have one, had to re-machine all dies so they can't squirt out the sides, now they capture the fixture before crimping and they look/perform factory. Side squirt (wings) are not acceptable in a crimp and won't see one from reputable company.
this is a awesome crimper use with marine glue grade shrink wrap the ends should not ever corrode thats the extreme battery cables..i just bought one to do battery cables cause to buy them already made is like 250 bucks for golf cart i can make them a lot cheaper an they extreme good i even color coat the ends so noway can put cables in wrong place on a golf cart..wasnt sure if i did it to hard an flared out the end on the cables but i guess i did it correct i kept going to it would not go any further
1:14 soldering terminal is bad not because of the cost, but because of the metal fatigue... The connection will fail much sooner than a crimped connection, especially if there's vibration in the equation.
Nope.... Wrong way,wrong technique maybe.GM and others have done it for years and they never break.Has to be strapped or in a harness and won't work harden.
have used this tool and it dosen't seal ram every pump are there seals to change? have used larger tools as an electrician this size and weight is great just need ram to hold pressure every pump
Harbor Freight should have included dies for 2/0 and 4/0 instead of the 14 and 7. I doubt anyone will find much use for 14 and 7. I need a 2/0 die. Has anyone found a source to buy replacement die accessories? If not, has anyone tried drilling out the less used dies to make 2/0 or 4/0? Obviously it will be round rather than hexagonal. The question is how secure will a round crimp be with a 16,000 lb crimp? Having heat shrink would stabilize it a tad.
i have one that is very old now and it went thow a shop fire and it still works but my dies run a little big so if you run 8gag then you need two us 6gag to crimp right
Something doesn't look right, you either used a extra large lug or the wrong number to crimp it, the crimp shouldn't stick out on the sides, it should be more rounded.
Do you mean Zero Gauge cable or sometimes referred to as Aught? You can get down to 4/0 gauge which is often used in welding leads if that is what you mean.
Good video. Is there any way you could tell me the outer dimensions of the dies are L x W x Thk. (just one half) and maybe what the size of the largest hex opening would be? Not sure if you might have a pair of calipers to get a good measurement. I couldn't find a drawing or dimensions anywhere.
Solder joint is the best way to attach a ring terminal to wire. Crimp joints corrode internally & loosen up. But, if you can't handle a simple solder job & want problems down the road, go ahead & crimp. 4:59 "factory crimp on something" LOL A good crimping tool does a full circle crimp (AC lines), that thing you are playing with belongs in the trash can. Might as well use a pair of vise grips.
@Baskin Robbins Not if crimped properly, which was not the case here as you know. I have a similar tool from China that works great and doesn't produce "wings" as long as the lugs fit the dies properly. I think the problem here is he's using metric lugs (mm2) with American dies (AWG) That's not the tool's fault.
I bought a similar machine on Amazon but after only a couple of lugs it failed to hold pressure. Maybe I over stressed it but I didn’t think so. No comeback on Amazon as seller has no contact details so beware where and what you buy. Great tool when it works.
Will this work on 1/4" pressure washer hose rated for 2000 psi? 3/4" garden hose? How do you take the old brass (?) crimp off if you dont want to damage the barb inside the hose? Thanks👍
I love the one I have. I grabbed the yellow one off amazon. I think it goes to 00 or maybe even 000 AWG. I think it was $70 for the one I grabbed. Glad even the smaller version is still a great purchase!
@@mustangdemon87 Actually, yeah, as long as you are only doing electrical (aluminum and copper, no steel) check out TEMCo. TH0005 I think goes 10ga to 4/0 and up to 600MCM. They sell factory referbs on E-Bay with full warranty. Other than some oil on it, mine looked new. Under $100, and works great.
Exactly. And too small a die for the lug as well. Mentioned soldering the joint too - never! There’s a proper way of doing crimps, and it’s not shown in this video. Certainly not to IPC spec.
there are hundreds of these with different names for sale on ebay and amazon. all look identical. Not a single one has 5 star reviews. Seems they are all made pretty cheaply.
After you get to 1 AWG it goes to ought sizes, 1/0, 2/0 etc.. The real tools for this have a pressure release like a torque wrench, clicks when it's done, Thomas and Betts for example. Cheap China knockoff. Spend your money where you live, you might want it back someday. Retired electrician, USA.
Only thing is America don't make stuff like that anymore.If America does make it,it will cost $800.00.Pay rent on building,taxes,insurance,payroll,materials,sick leave,maternal leave,vacation,raises,dental.Maybe more like $1300.00.Try providing a link or company that makes one.America is done,we have been beat.It's just a name now.China and other countries have won.
@@rickjeffjeff We worked for contractors. They bought American tools, Greenlee etc., did buy Hilti hammer drills because they blew away what Skill and anyone else was building. All we can do is buy American unless someone else is building a better mouse trap. You can do like a super cheap friend of mine does, buy it, use it and then return it. If you use it every day china will not pay off. The reason they won, gov. sub. slave wages compared to the US and unaware americans who don't have time to see if that lite bulb is made in the US or not!
Thanks for video but I must to say that it's not perfect crimp. Your tool deforming connectors and it's not acceptable in industry or any other professional usage.
A little tip from an avionics person that uses a Daniels Tool that is similar to this but of much higher quality...Put the crimp lug into the tool and pull it up to the detent on the die, and crimp down till the tool just holds it in place. Then jam your wire up into the lug and crimp it down. Less manipulation needed to hold 3 things with two hands that way.
I use similar tools for making flare fittings and such, sometimes, in off vehicle scenarios you can place the tool in a vice (gently of course) or an apparatus i created with rubber, hose clamps and a piece of 2x4 to put it in a vice. For production stuff this is awesome, and using your method of using jaws to initially hold the lug, it gets easier.
"I'm gonna hold it with one hand and finish it off with the other." I've used this technique with success myself.
Tried and true.
Perverts! 😅😂
@@TheJtg0411 I was doing it wrong lol
67% of the time, it works 100% of the time.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Great video on this tool
I get the terminal set in the tool first and then push the wire in, makes it easier than lining up the terminal on the wire and hoping it doesn't get knocked sideways
Just a note when using this tool. Do not over pump the hydraulic fluid by putting too much force on the pump handle or you risk breaking the jaw that holds the crimp inserts. Just pump until it becomes firm.
Looked at it today at harbor freight and after watching this great video I’m going back to purchase it tomorrow thank you great video demonstration !
That's what I've always done. Pump it till firm and release pressure.. SO SATISFYING.
Thanks for the great camera work. I suggest that forcing the crimp tighter with both hands should be avoided as this can result in over-compressing and breaking of wire strands.
I start with one hand too then i finish with too, i know it's a lil much but it works
I've always pumped it till good and firm then release pressure..SO SATISFYING!!!! Then take a nap.
What you are producing are not factory quality. I don't know if you are using metric lugs, or what,? but they do not fit those dies. A proper crimp, which "cold welds" all the strands uniformly to the lug and eliminates all air pockets, doesn't have wings like that. The dies are supposed to come together completely forming a perfect hexagon with no "wings." If you were to cut those crimps open, you would see air pockets in the cross section, between the strands and/or the lug itself, which will oxidize over time, as well as reduce the electrical conductivity greatly by reducing the area of contact between the conductor (wire) and the lug (termination). Those crimps are not a "gas tight" crimp, which is the goal in automotive cables. A factory, or perfect, crimp would show a cross section when cut open of one solid piece of copper, you would not be able to see or differentiate between single strands or the lug itself.
I will shorten your novel......
That is an incorrect crimp......
@@rickjeffjeff and yet does nothing to educate or teach why it is incorrect, your comment is a waste of words and time.
I was wondering about the wings as I bought this tool myself and am crimping a 6ga battery cable for a 1970 Honda cl175. The factory cable uses a barrel(?) style crimp the same as it does on the 18 ga connectors. Traditionalists would want the same style of crimp for restorations but I’m not even sure how to get ahold of does to crimp in this manner. My crimps on this 6ga ring terminals have the wings like on this video. Would crimping with the 4ga dies prevent winged crimps? Just thinking out loud. Thanks for he video to the OP.
I have this tool and it's a beast, going all ring terminal from here on out.
"I'm gonna hold it with one hand and finish it off with the other" That's what she said!
How
This is going to be a game changer for me. Glad I stumbled onto this video thanks
Used an old bud nut, wheel weights and a torch. Put wheel weights in the Bud nut, use torch to heat it, dip the wire ends into the molten lead to Tin the ends. Makes for a long lasting connection.
Nice review of the tool. I however cut the cable insulation back a but more, then push the cable full forward into the cable end. I also do not twist the cable, If the cable is the same size as the end, as it should be, twisting the wires has no benefit, and it might be better to crimp with wires straight in, just like a factory made cable, but everyone has their way.......IMO........nice vid though
Note: if you over compress the hydraulics ( keep pumping ) after it is crimped you can break or crack the hydraulic head!
Well.........
Some people's children.........
Wouldn't it be easier to lightly crimp the lug in the dies then insert the wire?
I was seriously considering buying this tool. It's about $70 at my local store. I need to replace several electrical connections on my car. I believe it would pay for itself after I make 2 cables vs. buying an set of own cables at the dealer.
And you have the ability to use higher quality wire than probabley the OEM stuff is.
We found these over crimp AWG 6 cable, and the hydraulic leaks after awhile. Suggest investing in a professional grade Crimper, you don't want heat due to voltage drops.
I saw another post and before the shrink tubing gets heated , they put in dielectric grease to keep moisture out .
This crimper is a pleasant surprise, really love it, great value.
It’s probably overkill but I like to solder after I crimp. I torch the lug and fill the cavity around the wire. Then heat shrink
Soldering after crimp heats up the joint and can reduce the overall bond. I recommend to crimp or solder, not both.
@@lizardking667 idk man, I’ve never had a voltage drop problem or loose connection yet. I’d go further to say you couldn’t get that cable end off the wire if you tried, after I crimped and soldered it.
@@jeffclark5024 issue is it creates a break point for vibrations, snaps and fails a lot
@@charlesf9065 I guess I could see that, depending on the application. I personally have never seen it to be a issue.
@@jeffclark5024 I've seen it sadly. Tractors and boats
I've had one of those since 2008. Seldom use it but its invaluable when I need it. Never had a crimp fail after crimping with this tool. I'd recommend using an alligator clip or something similar to hold the wire while you crimped it with 2 hands. Mine is so old the dies aren't magnetic.
Duck Doughnuts! We've got one of those here in Williamsburg. :) Cool tool, I was searching for a crimper when I found your video.
I’d use a vise and lock the head in the vise to might help the process
I use one of these and follow up with a lug dip in a solder pot. The connections will outlast the equipment you wire them to.
That thing cold welds the copper man!
Cool tool, looking at getting one. I have been using a hammer and punch technique, but this is much better.
The other issue with solder is that if the cable heats up enough, it could melt the solder and the cable can slip out
Agreed but if it gets that hot theres another issue. Crimp and solder goves the best of both worlds. A quality crimp with a sealing heat shrink is all that is needed.
I have one, had to re-machine all dies so they can't squirt out the sides, now they capture the fixture before crimping and they look/perform factory. Side squirt (wings) are not acceptable in a crimp and won't see one from reputable company.
Can you explain the process used please ? Trying to avoid the amateur result
this is a awesome crimper use with marine glue grade shrink wrap the ends should not ever corrode thats the extreme battery cables..i just bought one to do battery cables cause to buy them already made is like 250 bucks for golf cart i can make them a lot cheaper an they extreme good i even color coat the ends so noway can put cables in wrong place on a golf cart..wasnt sure if i did it to hard an flared out the end on the cables but i guess i did it correct i kept going to it would not go any further
Get the terminal captured in the crimper then stick the wire in and start pumping....not doing three things with two hands that way !
Duck Donuts, Trump sign... how could I not like and subscribe??!!
Oh cool. Another game changer.
1:14 soldering terminal is bad not because of the cost, but because of the metal fatigue... The connection will fail much sooner than a crimped connection, especially if there's vibration in the equation.
Nope....
Wrong way,wrong technique maybe.GM and others have done it for years and they never break.Has to be strapped or in a harness and won't work harden.
Thank you. Great video!
Thx. Now I gotta buy something haha
You need it.
No links in the description on parts to buy nice job it is a great product
Excellent video thank you!
have used this tool and it dosen't seal ram every pump are there seals to change? have used larger tools as an electrician this size and weight is great just need ram to hold pressure every pump
Harbor Freight should have included dies for 2/0 and 4/0 instead of the 14 and 7. I doubt anyone will find much use for 14 and 7. I need a 2/0 die. Has anyone found a source to buy replacement die accessories? If not, has anyone tried drilling out the less used dies to make 2/0 or 4/0? Obviously it will be round rather than hexagonal. The question is how secure will a round crimp be with a 16,000 lb crimp? Having heat shrink would stabilize it a tad.
i have one that is very old now and it went thow a shop fire and it still works but my dies run a little big so if you run 8gag then you need two us 6gag to crimp right
thanks for the review i was wondering if it would be effective on stainless steel fittings cable for deck railing 3/16 x 1x19 ?
Ever try this? I’m curious if you can swage cable with this
As well
Amazon has them for up to 16000 pounds crimping weight.
Something doesn't look right, you either used a extra large lug or the wrong number to crimp it, the crimp shouldn't stick out on the sides, it should be more rounded.
Other video from someone else I just watched, the guy showed this harbor freight hydraulic crimping tool snapped in half. lol
Do you mean Zero Gauge cable or sometimes referred to as Aught? You can get down to 4/0 gauge which is often used in welding leads if that is what you mean.
Good video. Is there any way you could tell me the outer dimensions of the dies are L x W x Thk. (just one half) and maybe what the size of the largest hex opening would be? Not sure if you might have a pair of calipers to get a good measurement. I couldn't find a drawing or dimensions anywhere.
Thanx a lot mane 💰💰
Solder joint is the best way to attach a ring terminal to wire. Crimp joints corrode internally & loosen up. But, if you can't handle a simple solder job & want problems down the road, go ahead & crimp. 4:59 "factory crimp on something" LOL A good crimping tool does a full circle crimp (AC lines), that thing you are playing with belongs in the trash can. Might as well use a pair of vise grips.
@Baskin Robbins Not if crimped properly, which was not the case here as you know. I have a similar tool from China that works great and doesn't produce "wings" as long as the lugs fit the dies properly. I think the problem here is he's using metric lugs (mm2) with American dies (AWG) That's not the tool's fault.
@@johnny0454 what tool do you use?
I bought a similar machine on Amazon but after only a couple of lugs it failed to hold pressure. Maybe I over stressed it but I didn’t think so. No comeback on Amazon as seller has no contact details so beware where and what you buy. Great tool when it works.
Thanks. I want one
Will this work on 1/4" pressure washer hose rated for 2000 psi? 3/4" garden hose? How do you take the old brass (?) crimp off if you dont want to damage the barb inside the hose? Thanks👍
Sweet review
Great job
I love the one I have. I grabbed the yellow one off amazon. I think it goes to 00 or maybe even 000 AWG. I think it was $70 for the one I grabbed. Glad even the smaller version is still a great purchase!
I think I've probably got the same one and I wasn't using the biggest dies when I was doing 000 . Would probably work on the 000 lead crimp on ends.
I had looked at this Harbor Freight thing, but not being able to go 00 and 000 is kind of a deal killer.
@@JeffinTD im still looking for one to do 000. Know any good budget options to the 3$00 hydraulic ones?
@@mustangdemon87 Actually, yeah, as long as you are only doing electrical (aluminum and copper, no steel) check out TEMCo. TH0005 I think goes 10ga to 4/0 and up to 600MCM. They sell factory referbs on E-Bay with full warranty. Other than some oil on it, mine looked new. Under $100, and works great.
@@JeffinTD thanks ill check ebay for them then!!! Yes only doing class 8 battery cables and welding cables from 0 to 0000.
How much price for this instrument
dies are wrong size though right? I seem to remember mine can't do 1/0, or am I wrong?
Great review 👍
Looking forward to when the terms 'Gamechanger' and 'Reveal' are no longer used.
Its not about costs its about a better Electrical connection and mechanical connection.
What game does it change?
NEVER twist the conductors!!!
Exactly. And too small a die for the lug as well. Mentioned soldering the joint too - never!
There’s a proper way of doing crimps, and it’s not shown in this video. Certainly not to IPC spec.
Could you use this to crimp ferrules on to the ends of wire rope as well for rigging?
You're asking a guy on CZcams if your rigging is going to collapse and kill someone? At least do load testing if you're going to cheap out on safety
Ever try it?
Northern Tool has a similar tool for about $30 less. Not sure if it is $30 less good or not.
Is there a cordless tool like this, Preferably for wire ropes?
O gauge? 1,2,3,or 4 /O?
what size AWG die do you use with this HF tool to swage 1/8" Stainless steel cable fittings.?
Good Video and Love the Trump sign in the back...! You are the man...! I am Subscribed...!
I wish it had all the 0 gauge dies to 4-0.
Those are available although the crimper tool will be larger.
Check ebay and amazon.
It is $70 now and I never see it go on sale. It is like I have a membership for nothing.
Anyone try swaging wire ends with this?
I use copper tubing and a little ingenuity to make my own terminals. Much cheaper.
Wow awesome can we do piping?
Would not fitt over my 4/0Ga. Removed one die and got it to go that way.
now what did you say..."a bird in one hand and a bush in the other"?
Great instructions clip
Thank you
Where did you get the "Duck Donuts" hoodie?
Love the Trump signs in the background !
For trump supporter ...funny how he uses Chinese made tools ...jejejejeje
there are hundreds of these with different names for sale on ebay and amazon. all look identical. Not a single one has 5 star reviews. Seems they are all made pretty cheaply.
The need to make brake line flare adapters for this tool
and they still don't make brake flare fitting adapters
still no brake line flare kit , totally missing the mark here
i would buy if die were hex shape. ebay has a 10 ton model for under $40
They are, he just used a smaller die which gave that pinched look.
Nobody going to say anything about Trump-Pence banner in the background 😂😂😂
I noticed it but of course that's not why were here 😁. DIY-ing first, politics second 👍
Maga
Good tool wrong size dies
I saw a video where a man made his lugs out of copper pipe.
4:15 finish it 4:21 fatality
they no longer sell it with that nice case it comes in a cardboard box now also no longer made by pittsburgh
That is a ring tongue terminal, not a lug 4:29
All I have is ZERO GAUGE! can't seem to find OH Gauge anywhere 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Can the crimper be mounted in a jig or pipe vice so you can get better leverage and precise lug position within the jaws?
Love the name
need a vise instead of one handed
Nice torture tool. Hahahahaaaa.🧟♂️
This tool isn't easy to use.
For me,the tool needs 1 hand on the body, 1 hand on the handle.
Difficult to hold the connector..
Just saying
You can put the wire in a vise
Put the connector in the tool and hold it with one hand. Then insert the wire and crimp it.
After you get to 1 AWG it goes to ought sizes, 1/0, 2/0 etc.. The real tools for this have a pressure release like a torque wrench, clicks when it's done, Thomas and Betts for example. Cheap China knockoff. Spend your money where you live, you might want it back someday. Retired electrician, USA.
Only thing is America don't make stuff like that anymore.If America does make it,it will cost $800.00.Pay rent on building,taxes,insurance,payroll,materials,sick leave,maternal leave,vacation,raises,dental.Maybe more like $1300.00.Try providing a link or company that makes one.America is done,we have been beat.It's just a name now.China and other countries have won.
@@rickjeffjeff We worked for contractors. They bought American tools, Greenlee etc., did buy Hilti hammer drills because they blew away what Skill and anyone else was building. All we can do is buy American unless someone else is building a better mouse trap. You can do like a super cheap friend of mine does, buy it, use it and then return it. If you use it every day china will not pay off. The reason they won, gov. sub. slave wages compared to the US and unaware americans who don't have time to see if that lite bulb is made in the US or not!
Wrong die used for the wire and lug.
There's are cheap as Chinese crimpers aha with their weight in gold. I have two
Thanks for video but I must to say that it's not perfect crimp. Your tool deforming connectors and it's not acceptable in industry or any other professional usage.
Reliable, it's not. Mine worked only 3 times. I can not find the repair kit for this thing to replace the seals. It's a piece of Junk.
9
Good video. Don't care much for the tool but like the garage decoration. MAGA Again.
War
I knew I was going to like this video the moment I spotted the trump sign in your garage!!! #trump2024