6 MORE MISTAKES DIYers Make When Wiring Outlets
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- čas přidán 10. 12. 2022
- These 6 additional mistakes can be a safety hazard and cause code compliance issues but there are easy fixes for each of them. #diy #electric #homeimprovement
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This was actually a good video right up until #1.
For one thing, you may think you are describing series and parallel, but electrically these are both parallel. It is doing a disservice to those who don't know to describe it this incorrect way.
Second thing, it is absolutely FINE to use the side screws on a receptacle. As long as the connection is made properly it will NOT fail. Devices generally do not fail, connections and splices do. In my well over 30 years in the trade I have easily have seen as many wire nut/splices fail as I have device connections. In pretty much every case the failure could be attributed to the installation and not the material itself.
I'll add that doing a pigtail is one extra junction and therefore an extra potential point of failure
I probably should have read the comments before posting my own, identical response to the video. 😂
@@HCkev Yes, but it's a potential we accept when we don't want a whole row of computers to shut off because one receptacle needs replacing.
I was just about to comment the same thing. Absolute dogshit explanation.
But I don't really agree with jointing in the box being a potential source of failure, any more than just "having wiring" is a potential source of failure. Nothing should be able to pull on the recessed cables once the walls are closed. I suppose a novice trying to joint their connections could be considered a potential source of failure, but then we're back to the fact that any work they do is at the same risk, not just jointing, making the point moot. It's just better to use the terminals on the sockets for this (as they were designed for it), as it leaves space for other things at the back of the box.
I wish I worked for you. Smart man.
12:02 Daisy-chained outlets are always in parallel (presuming they're correctly wired). The difference between wiring through the terminals or through pigtails is not electrical but mechanical.
A failed outlet which is daisy-chained through its terminals will continue to pass current to downstream outlets unless the brass tab between the upper and lower terminals has been broken off. The downstream outlets lose power only when you *remove* the failed outlet in order to replace it. Using pigtails allows you to replace outlets without disrupting service down the line but it does not change the fundamental circuit topology; it's still parallel.
One could, in theory, wire receptacles in series but doing so would be foolish, hazardous and in violation of code.
That isn’t running in series. The wire are still parallel. They are simply run without pigtails which is a bad idea other than for devices like a GFCI that need to control the downstream leg.
Over here in Germany we mostly connect the outlets without pigtailing but only using the push in connectors which work great.
The chance of a failed outlet is very small. The most common failure that I’ve seen is not making a good connection in the first place. I’ve seen more failures in using wire nuts incorrectly, either solid to stranded or not properly aligning the wires. Daisy chaining is hardly a disaster.
@@TomCee53 I didn’t say it was a disaster, I said it was a bad idea. It makes it harder to insert and remove the outlet as you are trying to bend and push in four wires rather than two. I agree that bad connections are the biggest issue. However, even with sound connections, I still prefer to attaché pigtails and then get the wires nested well in the box before installing the outlet and needed to then nest only the pigtails.
No need to pigtail.
@@d1ddyp0p Need? No. Good practice? Yes.
I like leaving the ground wire an inch longer than the hot and neutral.
Especially since that horrid ground screw is farther way from the terminal screws.
I sometimes leave the ground wire even longer so I can 3/4 wrap the green box screw first.
I use a seam ripper for stripping sheathing. Simple, cheap, effective, and useful for other things rather than being a single use tool.
I have an old metal stripper that works much like your plastic one. It doesn’t do the other functions, but it strips the Romex jacket very nicely and quickly with no damage to the conductor insulation. You just slide it over the cable, pinch it together and pull it off. Easy peasy.
Daisy chain is not series. They are in parallel in all cases.
It seems to be an often used misnomer to refer to receptacle wiring as parallel or series. There's no such thing as series wiring with receptacles, it's always parallel. The distinction is whether you want to use the receptacle as a connecting device or bypassing it when there's no load. It's mostly personal preference. Personally, I prefer pigtails, easier to fold into the box with only 3 wires instead of 5 and easier to change later. Series wiring only applies to switches, dimmers, fuses, and circuit breakers because the current must flow through them or the circuit is open.
You tried to make it sound like you know what you are talking about, but you really don't.
@@stevetucker3902 ok, you're welcome to explain what you mean.
@@stevetucker3902 Actually he described things very well and correctly, at least initially. Ignore the last sentance as it is at best misleading and at worst, just plain wrong. In almost all electrical applications series is NEVER used. What is depicted in the video is called daisy chaining which is perfectly acceptable by the Code and could be considered personal preference, except for a specific configuration called a multiwire branch circuit which CANNOT be daisy chained.
I think that it is possible to wire a non-terminal outlet in series, by connecting hot-in to the hot terminal, hot-out to the neutral terminal, and connecting the neutral-in and neutral-out to each other. A REALLY bad idea, for all sorts of reasons, but it can be done and would "work" (so long as something is plugged into that outlet and turned on), and is technically considered to be series. I'm guessing that this is done more often than one would hope is the case. Scary.
I just posted the same comment before checking to see if anyone else had already jumped on this. Looks like I'm late to the party 😁
When doing outlets in parallel I run the feeder side longer than needed so I have a longer ground wire. Hot and neutral get pig tailed together and the grounds I use a green wire nut with a hole in the end for the ground wire to the receptacle. Doing it this way I always know which wire is the hot feeder by following the long ground wire back. Clean, neat, and secure. Always make your connections mechanically sound before putting on the wire nuts.
I learn something new in every video. Thanks…
When stripping the jacket, I do what was shown, sliding the blade down the jacket length wise, but I don’t put pressure on the blade till I get to the end. This way you can’t slice through to the wire, but you can easily tear off the jacket. Applying pressure on the jacket, cutting through at the last half inch, doesn’t matter because you’ll be cutting off the ends anyways.
Interesting ideas, thank you
Another great video ,i enjoy your videos , very informative
Great advice. However your reference to "series" and "parallel" is misleading. Wiring both upstream and downstream leads to the receptacle is still in parallel. I agree that pig-tailing is the better way to go, but "series" wiring is a totally different thing than what you describe.
You beat me to my comment. Voltage is divided in a real series circuit, so all the devices on that circuit would have to share 120v. You would know it when your lamp dimmed when you tried to use a vacuum cleaner. But I've been guilty as charged in the video. Pigtails would make the parallel connections more reliable, and not bring down a bunch of outlets when one failed, and make it a lot easier to troubleshoot.
Agreed. "Series" is a very specific electrical configuration. What he describes in the video is NOT series. It is more commonly called "daisy chaining." Daisy chaining IS legal and acceptable by Code in most instances, especially in residential applications. However, some homes, especially those built post WWII, a technique known as "mutiwire branch circuits" was used. If this case, a single grounded conductor (neutral/white) is shared by two circuits. If you daisy chain this type of circuit and the neutral wire would fail or be disconnected, it could cause devices downstream to receive 220/240v. Obviously, this could damage equipment/appliances and possibly catch fire. It is why, generally, electricians do not daisy chain receptacles and use pig tails.
When using more than one spacer... instead of bending the string and snapping them together, break one off and rotate it 180 degrees so there is now a hole to thread the attachment screw through. The hole keeps the spacers from dropping down the wall or on the floor.
Do you know if it was mentioned but the little eyes on the tabs of the outlets and switches are also usable as spacers.
And some outlet receptacles and switches also incorporate wire strippers with those tabs.
I always wire the grounding wires in parallel, but not the other two. Fewer wires to stuff into the box.
I've used series wiring for receptacles for years and never had a problem. Generally only two rare situations exist where I use pigtails, because it costs more for labor and material. 1) if I have three cable entering the box. 2) On multiwire circuits, the continuity of the neutral must not rely on a receptacle, so I must pigtail the neutral, and also the hots if I'm alternating between the black and red along the wall, this is an obsolete wiring method in dwelling units because of AFCI/GFCI requirements, but is common in older homes as a means of savings on material and/or labor, as well as other than dwelling units, specifically large office buildings where I might have perhaps a couple dozen or more 120 volt circuits spanning a large area fed by the same panelboard. This allows for smaller raceways, less conductors, savings in labor costs and less voltage drop, particularly in a 120/208Y 3ø system where I can alternate because phases A B C sharing a common neutral, vs, having to run a neutral for each circuit.
No, you have not used series wiring. What you have done is use daisy chaining. Two very different things, but the rest of what you said I agree with.
@@TwilightxKnight13 I sometimes use the terms daisy chaining and series interchangeably when talking about receptacle wiring, even though that is technically not accurate. Christmas lights where you pull a bulb out and the whole string goes dark, is the only real practical series wiring that I can think of, other than older electric cooktops with pushbuttons or a selector switch with 5 fixed positions, which work by switching various combinations of 120 or 240 volts in series or parallel combinations between a burner with 2 elements.
@@Sparky-ww5re you could use terminology anyway you like. Daisy chain means going from location to location. Wiring in series is more common in light bulbs, where the power goes around the circuit and returns to neutral on the other side. Mostly found in old Christmas string lights, where if one light is out the whole circuit doesn't work.
For box wire length push the wire to the back of the box and then use you plyers from back of box to end of plyers for cut length. Gives you a extra couple of inches extra without have too much.
# 5:36 I like that yeller thingy, [ wire stripper ]
Thank you Iam learnings from you.I been studying electricity.
wow this is a great content ..... i enjoy and i love watching your videos a lot ......
I see several other people have already said what I was going to say. Your "series" circuit is no such thing. Series would be if you connected the hot from the breaker box to one outlet, the neutral from the breaker box to another outlet, and daisy chained between them. Which would of course not work at all. But that would be series. Second of all, there is no probable failure mode of the outlet where your so-called "parallel" would be superior.
#1 - you are mistaken. The connection at the outlet is on the side plates of the device and not internal to it. That is, if the outlet fails it has no impact on the connection to the downstream outlets. Second problem is your use of Wagos. Frankly the small contact area (vs the outlet plate method) will induce higher heat. Granted the Wagos are rated for this thermal load but you are introducing a far less reliable connection for no reason. If you want to pigtail just use a wire nut properly.
As for finding the length of wire to cut in a box. Just fold it down inside the back of the box, and grip and snip the wire. Sure its going to be over 6 inch, but having 7 total inchs in a box isn't going to make or break.
Is there a difference in quality when it comes to electrical connectors, or will the cheapest do~?
If there is a better brand, may I ask which to buy~?
I noticed that when using the lil ripper to Ben the hook in the wire, you bent the hook too close to the insulation, so that it likely would be under the screw.
I've made most of those mistakes when stripping wire. Can you tell me what the paper inside the Romex is for?
Please and thank you.
I could be wrong but my understanding is that it assists in the manufacturing process. By having the three or four wires wrapped up in paper, it makes it easy for the bundle to then be coated in the outer jacket. It also helps when desheathing or dejacketing the bundle for the end user (you and I).
Wow, we went from hawkbill klein knives to classic art and the stock market and back!!!...lol
I had to shim outlets with washers.
Pig-tailing and back-stabbing go together. If you know the connection will likely overheat then you only sacrifice that pig-tail. If the duplex is installed properly then pig tailing is not such an advantage unless the inspector requires it. Unfortunately, there are some electricians who do not install twist-on connectors securely -- so pig trails might increase points of failure. A good electrician will use both methods selectively where appropriate and nothing will fail. Do not stab the Wago, use the lever.
Quick tip for measuring the 6” on the outlet box- pull your pants down and stick you voltage detector in- then add another 3”😂
Learn what series and parallel mean. What you mean is pigtail vs daisy-chain using the screws.
The downside of pigtails is introducing additional connections, which are potential failure points.
I don't like wringing the wire like that. Could score the conductor an lead to a break.
Today I learned I wire in parallel from the start. Someone, somewhere must have done it on an old outlet or something and that just followed me as how it was meant to be.
Nice video. Definitely twist your pigtails before using the wire nut. More wire contact = less resistance. Thank you!
That's fine, but be aware that many wire nut manufacturers recommend against it because the effectiveness of their connector depends on the twisting action of the copper.
It is perfectly fine with 99% of wire nuts nowadays to not twist before installing the wire nut. It will NOT come apart.
Like mentioned, for the circuit to be in series the voltage would need to run through the load (whatever is plugged) and to the next outlet. So that would look like the black wire going into the outlet and the white on the neutral side going to the hot on the next out let. When it gets to the last outlet the white would run back to neutral. A circuit like that would only work if all outlets have a load that is turned on. It’s a bad idea for obvious reason because you just made a circuit like Christmas lights when one light burns out they all go out because it makes a open circuit.
Series wiring also divides the voltage between the devices, which in nearly all cases won’t work at all.
I've been replacing all the outlets and switches in my new house to get a more modern look. The issue I run into the most is that the box is slightly proud of the drywall. This results in a plate with a slight gap between it and the drywall... Even with all the screws bottomed out. Makes me a little crazy. I've been wondering if they make slightly deeper plates.
This might help if the gap isn’t too large. On the receptacle there are these wings by each of the securing screws. The wings are removable for just your situation. (Primarily necessary with some metal junction boxes) There’s a scored line imprinted at the base of the wings. Shut the power off and pull the receptacle out of the box. No need to disconnect wires. Take your pliers and bend the wing back and forth and it will break along the score line. Without the wings, the receptacle can fit below the drywall and rest on the junction box. Might have to remove a little drywall, but this should work.
If it's a plastic box you'll have to shave it down by sanding, grinding, or routing. You may get a satisfactory result with some appropriate colored removable type caulking around the face plate.
I re-read the OP, and another solution would be to get what is called an “old work box” and replace the existing junction box. This old work junction box is made with wings that flip out and tighten against the backside of the drywall.
How "slight" is "slight"? Assuming the plate is properly flush against the rim of the box, and the gap is between the plate and wall only, caulk the gap with paintable caulk. White caulk around white plate, nobody will ever notice, if the gap is small enough.
Here's a 7th: Backstabbing the wires. Perhaps you've covered that before.
Electricity travels on the surface of a wire. Nicking the wire causes a resistance that the nick. In the trade, we call a wire nick, a hot spot. The wire heats up at the nick and could melt and short open. The small flat on the end of lineman pliers is that specific width, just to make your Shepard hook the right size to fit around the side screws of a receptacle or other devices. Leviton devices no longer require the hook.
I've seen that when some electricians twist wires they are gouging and nicking the wires with the knurled gripping surfaces of the lineman's. I prefer to only grab the last 1/4 inch and twist, then trim that part off. I use the holes in the stripper's for the same reason when making a Shepard's hook.
All brands of residential grade receptacles require a Shepard's hook when not backstabbing, and all brands of "spec grade" receptacles have a back wiring option (not backstabbing) where no Shepard's hook is required.
When the plate melt indicate poor electrical contact Mosley one side of the plate ad6to 10 Ampere flown through it for 10 minutes uncouple the feeding and put the palm of your hand on the plate if it gets warmer than than do a measuring if it gets warmer than 45 degree Celsius meaning the contact is not in good shape
well that last part I will say there is a time and a place for outlets to be jumped into the back cuz that can save your home from burning down
There is no safety advantage (fire) to wiring like the video (daisy chaining) or pig tailing. The difference is time and cost of materials. You can use either method interchangeably except when it is a multiwire branch circuit. That type must be pig tailed.
@@TwilightxKnight13 boy you dont know nothen do you there is a resone why they jump the back of them
I like the sheathing strippers. Better reviews than the plastic strippers. And thank you for not shilling the wago's and showing wirenuts.
8:03 Don't wiggle the wire strippers!
Is it possible to turn two 120V outlets into a single 240V for charging a Tesla using their wall charger? DIY or need an electrician?
If two 120 volt receptacles are next to each other on different circuits, on opposite phases of the panel (L1 and L2) you could in theory fish two lengths of romex to a location at create a single 240 volt receptacle for say, a larger window air conditioner, or an electric heater rated more than 1500 watts like the kind you might use in a garage or warehouse. I do not recommend this for a number of reasons. First off, any 240 volt appliance will likely draw close to the circuit rating, and will indicate in the instructions that you must operate on an individual branch circuit, and technically you are required to install in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Second, a 240 volt device must be protected by a double pole breaker, or have identified handle ties approved by the panel manufacturer, sometimes you will see a nail, piece of wire or similar contraption to tie breakers together, this is NOT acceptable, and the purpose is to ensure both hots trip if one trips, for safety reasons. And lastly, if the circuit has AFCI protection, wiring a device from two different circuits will cause nuisance tripping every time the 240V receptacle is used. In summary, forget about attempting this, you will need to run a new circuit from the panel. Hope this is helpful.
Outdoor wall lights
Ouch. Marginal shepherds hook. That would leave insulation under the screw…
Ya. NEVER SCAB LOCK THE DEVICE…. Never use an outlet as a junction. Pig tail the device unless it only has one set of wires to connect
My family and friends are shocked when they find out I'm not a good DIY electrician. ⚡
It says not less than witch means u can have more than 1/4 inch
Thanks for all the work you send my way. I get about 20-30% of my work as a state certified electrical contractor following behind "electricians", trunk slammers and DIY'rs who tried ONLY because someone like you on the internet gave them the confidence. Keep up the good work.
That's awfully rude.
No need to be rude. In my area electricians are booked out for 6-8 weeks. If I need to replace an outlet that falls easily within my ability. When I need something complex I hire a professional.
Sanctimonious dingleberries like you who brag what ''true pro" geniuses they are, went out of style about 15 years ago.
If you have a specific point to make about the information presented, make it.
Teach us rubes something.
When you have an AFCI/GFCI on the first receptacle in a circuit, does the parallel wiring technique provide protection for the entire circuit? My guess is No.
That's correct, Don. If it's a GFI or GFCI, you need to wire the incoming into the line and the outgoing to the load. I should have mentioned that.
If you know that the AFCI/GFCI is the first receptacle and you can remove the pigtails on that one and connect the home run to the line and the downstream wires to the load, then yes
8:04 did he just rock his strippers like he told us previously told us not to?
yup
It's not why buy it since you have to buy the parts; it's all about the labor. It should be: "Why pay for the labor when you can DIY it?!"
Great video except #1. Both examples are parallel and I'd argue less secure to use the slip on connectors then directly mounting to the outlet. And its always better to twist wires together.
Not code.
@@jdilksjr okay, thanks.
I find some of the funky decora switch cover plates are out more than the regular plastic ones from upgrading over the year. As for the series vs. parallel for outlets, guess my home builder didnt want to do extra work, since everyone on each circuit is in series. It passed inspection I guess, or the money that changed hands let it pass "code"
I (think) I've reviewed every outlet and switch in our house. Definitely some questionable stuff installed by licensed electricians. I want safe, which is not the same as meeting minimum code. My wife and kids are too important to me.
@@toddforney5198 I dont think the series vs parallel is a safety thing. Its that if one goes they all do so its more of a pain then anything. But what do I know, Im not an electrician.
The wiring method i actually called daisy chaining, not series. The circuit is NOT in series. Per the NEC code, daisy chaining is perfectly acceptable as long as it is not a mutiwire branch circuit. No money needs to change hands.
@@TwilightxKnight13 basically whatever is cheapest and fastest for maximum profit for a home builder. If its code, then Im leaving it. I replaced all my plugs for decora plugs and just wired them the same a few years ago after we bought it. So far, all is well.
I was gonna watch TV but i noticed that some one was fixing the electricity
Its 0 inches if its combustible like wood.
Does not understand the difference between series and parallel. Basic electricity. F.
You ameicans have such bad, thin sockets and wires. You try to wire a 240V system that draws 16 to 20 Amps.
I agree with your 6 thru 2 tips but tip #1 seems a little overkill. If you look at an outlet, there is a piece of metal connecting the two screws on each side (hot and neutral). How is that any different than using your parallel method? When and outlet fails it is the inside part of the plug in sockets that will loosen over time. This will not affect the piece of metal that connects the two screws together on each side. I have never seen an electrician in my area use your pigtail parallel method. Too time consuming for little to no benefit!
Also to piggy back, if you’re working with a gfci outlet, wouldn’t running parallel circuits defeat the purpose of gfci protecting all of the downstream outlets?
@@TJF_3 Yes, you are right. On GFCI outlets there are "Line" terminals and "Load" terminals. You cannot do his parallel method with GFCI and ever daisy chain other outlets to get GFCI protection on those.
I always prefer pigtailing receptacles rather than connecting wires directly to the screws. I know receptacles are rated to pass current through, but the thought of forcing current to flow through a thin piece of metal makes me uneasy. Furthermore, if there’s 3 or more sets of wires are coming to a receptacle, there’s no choice but to pigtail.
Of course, many electricians don’t pigtail since it saves them time and wire nuts. In fact, my whole house was wired like that. I’ve slowly spent some time pigtailing each receptacle that was connected directly. Is it necessary? No. But will it make it easier to replace a receptacle in the future? Yes.
What if there’s a loose connection? Everything on the circuit will be dead (open circuit) and you may have to go through each receptacle to find the problem. Wired with pigtails, only the bad receptacle/connection will be out.
@@glasshalffull2930 Well, I guess that is always a possibility but if they are done right in the first place that won't happen. I have been wiring for going on 40 years and have never had an issue with loose connections if they are done right in the first place.
Segment 1. The problem there is a plastic box. It's clearly warped. I really wish NEC would wake up and decode those plastic and nylon boxes. They should only be the steel boxes. Adding to the problem is unprofessional drywall with sloppy cuts. No drywall installer would make sloppy cuts like that. They usually cut them out so that everything is plum, straight, and flush. If those two things are done the right way, then there's no need to start adding more expense, mess, and hazards to the existing problem. I say fix it the right way or not at all. Why leave that mess ?
This is a great instructional video. I know you’re working with a mock up, but isn’t the number one rule of working with wiring live or dead, not to have a metallic wedding ring on?
Thanks for the tip on the lil' ripper. I found it on scamazon for a few cents cheaper than homeless depot.
Keep using wagos 😂 keeps me working I’ve had multiple service calls for loss of power and it’s usually wagos failing
I didn’t go to school for 4 years in this trade for you to show Joe Shmoe how to save a couple bucks doing my job.
nobody cares how long you went to school.
If you are not an electrician and you caused a fire in your house by violating code, your will be 100% at fault.
What are you, a fire marshal?
are u spying on my home?
# 4:10 that type of insulation, rodents like to chew on, [squirrels ] WILL cause a fire. conduit IS recommended.
The seventh mistake is referring to a receptacle as an outlet.
nobody cares
The primary mistake DIYers make is not calling an electrician to do the wiring.
It's not rocket surgery. I could buy and sell most electricians I ever worked with on a job site. Unless for some reason you also have an electrical engineering degree, in which case you win.
You keep using the phrase “yes, that works, but…” It either is correct or it is not. Stop adding ambiguity to scenarios by using unclear language.
lmao again peddling nfts
You're commenting on the ad? That's a weird flex.
if y'all want to invest in my car send me your cash and when I sell it I will give you the loss.
At the risk of appearing overly pedantic, while all receptacles are outlets, all outlets are not receptacles. Therefore, using the term “outlet” in lieu of “receptacle” is imprecise, and lessens your credibility on the subject.
I totally get that but I also have to speak in a way that is understood. Most people never call them receptacles. If you go to the Home Depot or Lowe’s websites most of their receptacles are listed as outlets too, not receptacles.
This might be one of those cases where public opinion overrules original intent. Like when words such as irregardless get added to the dictionary because they’re used incorrectly so often. I’m not saying it’s the right way but most folks will just be confused if you start talking about receptacles.
@@LRN2DIY Of course you are correct. Perhaps the NEC should just accept it as well, like when they finally defined "neutral" as proper terminology for "grounded conductor." They should make outlet = receptacle, and the existing outlet definition could change to "service egress" or something.
@sig: You appear to be overly pedantic.