FINALLY FIXED!! How to level the bed on the Creality K1
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- Manual bed leveling the Creality K1 is definitely different than on an Ender 3 or another type of 3D printer. In this video, I show you how I've successfully got my bed to a flatter state. Hope this helps!
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Hope this helps! Let me know if you have questions.
What program is showing bed mesh?
how are you showing bed mesh
Type in the IP of your printer in your browser and it should show up@@azrielfriedman3595
@@Shayway thanks
@@Shayway I haven't had any luck displaying the bed mesh after typing the IP address in the browser. I've also got the problem of it not displaying the enclosure temperature, either in Creality Print or in the browser.
In addition - I recommend running the mesh level with the printer vertical. Doing it on its side introduces tensions that will not exist when the printer is vertical and will introduce error. It may be small but best to avoid.
Who uses their printer on its side?
@officialWWM
The guy in the video said he used the bed mesh calibration program to check his adjustment of the lead screws so he didn't have to flip the printer around all the tike while micro adjusting the screws.
Great video! Some detail: you can slide the tension release forward, and then tighten the screw to lock it in the loose position. To adjust the jack screws, I would pinch the belts together just downstream from the pulley. To move the jackscrew, I used a pair of pliers and a cloth over the screw; to flick it thru.
Perfect way, the mechanical way is the most accurate. Thanks dude!!!
adding a dial indicator to the process would make it easier to differentiate the little changes being made. Thanks for the vid!👍
This is very true. May give that a shot! Thanks for watching 🤙
I gotta try this.
How do you view the bed mesh is it in a slicer?
Great video, funny to hear “the auto bed leveling is great but it uhm can’t compensate for the bed level” 😂
Thanks for this!!! My bed level is NOT that bad as is...but it could be better!!
So the red means you need to loosen the corner?
Does this happen to fix this error "key:2552,Level Sensor Data Transmission Anomaly"?
There was also some very good techniques shown on the D3vil Design discord to, Derrick on the discord showed a way to do it without opening the bottom of the printer for very extreme cases of uneven beds.
czcams.com/video/jaFAe5T35bY/video.htmlsi=S2stQy0eEXGX9nw7
I’ll have to check it out!
Can you share a link to that discord server??
I am waiting for Discord server link too ✋
@@sinantenekeci9472 YT removes the links so I can’t help with that unfortunately.
thanks for a great video, but just to be clear about it, you just made a lower pulling of the belts on the left, and becouse it was tight you turned it counter clockvise? :)
You actually take the belt off and turn the lead screws in whatever direction you need to to raise or lower the bed
thnx mate !! 0,13 :)
Silly question: What programme are you using for the mesh test bed levelling as in creality print it doesn't show it thank you
Write your printer's IP address into your internet browser and it will show.
I'm new to 3d printing in general and just got k1 that needs leveling.
I can't find that visual representation of the leveling data in the Creality Print software at all. Under device all I've got is Temp, Control, and Printo info.
Am I in the wrong place?
You have to have your printer and your computer on the same network and type the printers IP address into the address bar in a browser.
Hello, we are having the same problem, we tried to do it by looking at your video, but there was no change, can you help?
check out the comment @stuartwaudby3543 left on this video. It may help out!
What software is that displaying the bed being off level?!
Klipper. Coloque o IP da sua impressora em um navegador (Chrome, Edge... etc)
Hello, can anyone share the name of the software used here to review the bed mesh and though result of the bed calibration? Thanks!
Just type the IP address for your printer in your browser and it'll pull it right up
thanks a lot for this information. but i can not found bed mesh mode at software can you help ?
This video should help How to use Creality K1 with OrcaSlicer Device Tab
czcams.com/video/uCsFvai5kMo/video.html
Thank you for your help @@Shayway
Help! How do i get that bed graph to show up in the creality software (or the app used in the video) cause i dont know where to look?!
type your printer's IP address in your browser
Thanks! You're a lifesaver!
It's easier if you have the ability to get a cheep digital caliper. while you adjust the screws you can get them almost perfect. then re-verify after putting the belt back on to make sure the tension didnt rotate one of the screws and not the others.
I have a k1 max and its bed is very similar to what yours was at the start.....How The graph to show how it is not level looks scary but in reality its not very much. Honestly these beds are not perfectly flat so I am not sure the point of getting it a bit closer my k1 max is not perfect but its bed leveling is awesome. Unless you need to tweak this is something I would not suggest the average person to do...
TIP I did this, this past weekend. Put some aluminum foil under your plate and keep leveling until you get perfect level. I have a pei so I never remove it anyways. I have a perfect leveled bed and if it ever warps again overtime I’ll just keep adding till I lose patience and buy a new bed all together that isn’t made out of a big roll of steel or whatever.
Why not just loosen the grub screws on the lead screws collars and rotate those separately for each corner?
Honestly this may be a good solution. Only reason I ended up with this solution was through using Creality's recommended bed leveling video and doing my own jerry rigging. I may give this a try to dial it in even further.
Now my bed leveling is looking good.
But i have 1 problem to get it perfect.
All 4 cornors are at level. But in the middle it is lower 0.2 so its shaped like a U.
How to fix the middle leveling?
Get some aluminum foil, cut it, and insert it into the low spot. Standard aluminum foil is roughly .1mm thick, so 2 layers should get you there.
@@jhowe67 okay thanks. I will give it a shot 💪
i totally fucked everything up and feel like giving up lol tbh! idk what i did how can i start fresh ? like do i need to lower the whole bed? down?
creality says to lower bed all the way down and reinsert the locking screws that came install to secore bed. then loosen belt and re adjust
@Draney09 is correct. This is definitely what I would do
please, is there no one who can answer me… how do I add the program that sees the unevenness of the table??? It does not exist in Creality Print.
Type in the IP of your printer in your browser
Oh wow it feels like it was a lot easier to adjust beds mounted on screws.
I completely agree. Hopefully this is just a temporary issue
Not all browsers support viewing the mesh using the IP address (Opera does not ) Chrome Does
Good to know!
How do I view the graph of where my bed is high or low?
Found the answer to my own question. For any others who were wondering, just get the IP address of your printer and put it in the address bar of a web browser, and it will take you to an interface that shows this graph at the bottom (presumably on if you've run the leveling process from your printer interface)
Was about to comment back! Glad you found it!
Did the same just after unboxing printer. Also i did put some diy washers made of paper under 2 of screws holding the bed. My dev is 0.15mm now
That’s awesome. I’m hoping to achieve that.
I just bought a pack of bearing shims. Combination of .1mm, .2mm, .3mm, .4mm, and .5mm
I hope I can get it pretty level
Correction about bed leveling working perfectly, even if your printer is upside down.
Gravity will always create some amount of sag, so it'll still work but it might need re-meshed and might be a tad more wonky.
How do we view the bed mesh?
Type the IP of your printer in the browser of your computer
@@Shayway ahh there she is.. Mines a bit off :(
@@DSPrints_ It's a blessing and a curse knowing your bed mesh lol
Isn't leveling the bed this way going to put angular force on the lead screws and nuts and potentially cause binding or at least premature wear? Plus if you are on purpose warping the bed mount via the lead screws and nuts to make the bed level that would seem like a pretty bad idea.
It seems like it would be best for the lead screw nuts to all be exactly the same height and then level the bed itself by shimming the corners of the bed on the mounting plate mounts as needed.
If the lead screws are out of calibration with each other then that should be fixed first before leveling the bed itself.
Is your table level? A buddy complained about the same thing till I showed him his desk wasn’t level.
I don't understand, Self level is great but it can't level the bed ?
Bed mesh is compensating uneven plane of bed only to 1st layer to print stick better.
How would it level the bed when bed is fixed? 3 lead screws connected by 1 belt to 1 Z motor.
Here is an example, If the bed is trammed diagonally, the self-leveling feature will assist with being able to print it but the moment you take off the print and sit it on a flat surface it won’t be even because the bed itself isn’t flat. Auto leveling is just compensation, it’s not actually leveling the bed.
@@wykonczeni New 3D Printers should have at least 3 Steppers to Actually level the bed and not just tram. (Some 3D Printers do this). Then Tram for any unevenness using LIDAR full bed scan the year is 2023 not 1989. One short video of True bed levelling czcams.com/users/shortsTdRU6vN9OLM?si=dVjByFjXqw5RnT3H
@@3D_Printingalso beacon, 5 axis, and 10 tool heads. Lidar was first time implemented in this year. Maybe at the end of 2022. You cant expect that technology in every printer now.
When will Creality create a tinker-free printer?!? I'd just like to print, please!
It's a luck of the draw. I don't know of any manufacturer that's consistently good out of the box. The fact that these are shipped over thousands of miles doesn't help.
The closest to tinker free I've found is Bambu Lab. They make great machines at a competitive price point.
@@Shayway We are both making anecdotal statements. I've seen too many complaints about Bambu Lab unable to fix issues. I'm firmly in the open source camp. I own numerous Creality's (since uprgaded) and have built VzBoTs. Voron and Mercury One.1 are my next projects.
Don't worry. The K1/K1 Max just work out of the box (current releases). Us 3DP hobbyists just like to tinker ;-)
Why should that be necessary on a brand new printer I'd return it
Bed leveling is pretty common but yeah, this was pretty extensive. Thanks for watching!
"I am currently doing the self levelling that it does - the auto levelling. It is great. The self-levelling on this thing is amazing, but what it can't do is compensate for the bed being unlevel" - What???
But many say as me this beds are warped
TBH this looks a bit too complicated for me to do with my experience level, and it ain't that high. The shims might be my best bet.
Skipping belt is the best method. No need to open up the printer
Has anyone done a video tutorial about it? I can’t find one.
Curious what this is! Could you share?
CZcams keep deleting my comment
So i cant send the link to reddit
Just google ”Guys, using fluidd+tooth skip method”
Be aware, the variance that he has here is .5mm to give you a comparison a Voron holds .05 with literally no effort. A .5mm variance is unacceptable. All it takes is a .05mm variance to change your first layer and much more than a .1mm variance and the auto adjust will not account for it entirely in the Z height. This method will also walk itself out. I recommend trying shims first to get down at least to .1-.2mm using the bed level to know what shims to use. There are pre-made ones out there ranging from .2-1mm in height. From there I would root the machine and do a Z tilt adjust. If that doesn't get it, get a bed custom machined that's flat
Update, using KAMP I am getting bed variances of sub .1mm. I am currently sitting at .05mm on average for small prints, .08mm for larger 60% bed prints
BEWARE: Just tried this and totally messed up my level. The spring on my belt tensioner is very tight and difficult to get back on without moving the screws as the belt is replaced. This is not a simple answer to bed leveling method.
Update: A much more controllable method is as follows: loosen the two screws, squeeze the tensioner and tighten one of the screws to lock the tensioner open. The belt now stays in position on each lead screw unless adjusted. To adjust pinch both sides of the belt about 2 inches from the lead screw and push towards the leadscrew. The leadscrew can then be turned on belt notch at a time. Repeat for each screw that needs changing. Loosen the tensioner screw and encourage the tensioner back. No not overtighten the tensioner screws when finished, they should allow some movement to maintain tension and allow the spring to compensate for thermal expansion.
Good to know! I'd love to see a video of this if you ever have the time. Thanks for the tip!
@@stuartwaudby3543 Wish I read this before watching Shayway's video - I've got a lot of correcting to do now.
@@stuartwaudby3543 I agree. Removing and reinstalling the belt failed horribly. Like you, I pinch the belts together ahead of the pulley I want to adjust. I used a plier ( with a cloth) to move the lead screw.
Дякую
One important thing before you put it on the side. Be f*ing sure that you have remove the top glas lid. I for some reason didn't but extremely fortunately, it basically landed with bottom side down and bounched a litte on my stone tiled floor but did not break.
If it had landed on the side or with the knob down, I most likely wouldn't have been as fortunate...
hello friend!
My K1 Max arrived yesterday and I noticed a humming sound in the power supply (coil whine) and an annoying humming sound in the X and Y stepper motors, does yours make this noise too? it only stops the motors on the display, and during printing it also makes this buzzing sound. I recorded this video to send to Creality support czcams.com/users/shorts3W6d7FUc9sA
Imagine if these machines came set up properly from the factory 🤔
It would be wonderful. Maybe the shitty factory and quality control is how they keep their prices so low 😂
@@Shayway lol, probably. I feel for all the people who buy one of these and take it home expecting it to work! Not everyone is confident when it comes to making adjustments like this :/
You might have made things worse when you do this without preheating the bed
This method is only as precise ad the teeth Better method Attach dial gauge to print head Bring bed up Loosen set screw at bottom of lead screw Set using dial 3 points right at lead screw close as possible Tighten set screw Run mesh and check Rinse and repeat till happy GO PRINT
My K1 bed is factory brilliant. If your print bed has got out of level, it looks like you should give it to the experts to level, good enough, isn’t good enough!
I origainally thought this wa s a helpful video and I liked and subscribed, however you could do a much better job at explaining which direction and how much one might turn the pulleys, depending which direction and how far to turn them. Looking elsewhere to fix mine now.
After searching more on Reddit ("Guys, using fluidd+tooth skip method, you can make your bed extremely level. VERY.") it's clear this is A TERRIBLE WAY to attempt to level the bed - your time-lapsed video does not portray this truth. At the very least you could drop a mention in the beginning of the video so as not to mislead others.