Hi there from South.Africa. It is really nice to see you using the Southbend , all the tools you make and sharing it with us . It is absolutely motivating to say the least . I have a small Lantaine lathe and a Walker Turner drill press i restored . Me and my son are currently finishing an old 2 metre Cardiff lathe to add to the tooling for his turbocharger business that he runs from his garage at home . Your video on the square colomn drill press is just awesome . I recently bought a nice drill press but with a rediculously short pillar . I think it is a good candidate for a square colomn. Thank you for sharing all this good stuff with us .
Thanks you for the great comment. And yes, the square column drill press is a major improvement. If you make one, make the two arms that support the lower bearings a little wider and consider tack welding then in place. My table flexes a little under heavy load. Thanks again!
Thanks! I love this little lathe. I got a super good deal on it but you might say I brought it back from the grave. I need to get some new gears for it. They work but they are noisy.
Very clever, well done. If you have enough motivation, re-make the indexing arbor to gain more contact area when it is expanding. Drill relief holes at the end of your slots, reduce the diameter of the tapered draw pin and cut the same taper on the OD of the arbor. This way when you pull it in tight, the arbor will expand parallel to the bore. Right now it's more like a small hole gauge. [edit - like an adjustable reamer stays parallel when expanding] Stay safe and well :)
Glad to have someone like you willing to share the knowledge. I’m a young man who always should interest in metal work. The older generations I’m around wants to keep the knowledge a secret for some reason. But now I’m passing them because of people like you.
Your so right, why do some of the most talented people want to keep what they know inside.....it is so foolish....my brother is a pottery turner, and has some wonderful glazes, and he said he will die with them in his head.....WHY?......his glazes are one of a kind..... I may have convinced him to write a book on them....I'm a former High School shop teacher....and I shared everything with my students....
@@WinkysWorkshop no the ferrule was too big for the crimper. I am going to start using the Wurth fittings that compedgex showed in his video. much simpler, quicker, easier.
Sounds for all the world like an old repulsion induction motor when it starts.. Love your lathe.. I have a 1957 sixteen inch South Bend running on three phase.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana
Yes, I bought 20 motors for $100 just to get this motor for the south bend but I ended up keeping 9 of them. I need to take the motor apart again. I cleaned it up and replaces the wires that went through the housing. I need to take the shorting necklace apart, occasionally it won't start and it's getting worse. I milled a slot in a cover and installed a remote reverse lever. You can see the lever when I reverse the lathe while tapping. czcams.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/video.html
@@alexblackburn627 My 1957 started life as a turret lathe.. I changed everything over to engine lathe configuration.. I too ran mine from a 5hp home made rpc until I got three phase from the power company.... I have enough power from Entergy to run 50 hp now.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana
meg I need to look into my energy company! I already trolled them over a duel lug power meter to power my garage sub panel and have yet to complete that endeavor hah. If you don’t mind me asking, how much did the line cost to get 3p into your shop not including the breaker box and such? I’m in Cincinnati in a residential cul-de-sac so I probably don’t have the option. My 1951 index 55 knee mill and lathe running together really suck the life out of my RPC’s 3rd leg
@@alexblackburn627 I live right across the street from a power sub station so the three phase overhead line is very close... They hung a small transformer for the third leg and use the existing transformer feeding my house for the other two legs.....It is 120 240 208 "open delta" that is about 87% efficient but it is better if you have 220 single phase motors....I had to cut a check to the power company for 1000 dollars for them to supply to the meter which I had to provide....If I would have had a large enough demand, they would have provided what I had to pay them for for free.. cheers; Mike in Louisiana (Ramsay 1 on Practical Machinist)
as an alternative turning a taper on the shaft to seat into the headstock bore on the gearbox side would align the tool as well, assuming the headstock bore is true. Great Idea, I will be making one for my SB in the future.
I think I have a video up where I made a cutter by knurling. I was exposed to increasing diameter and making cutters for softer materials in my dads race shop. In his case, he made tools to line bore 356 and 911 cases when there was an issue with the crank binding as the case was torqued up. I've also considered making an expanding mandrel by producing an incomplete thread. ;-) Gaining the expanding taper from the end of the tap/threads. I've not used the method yet. A lathe without an indexing method is an issue. I need to make a better drilling rig. I like yours. I have a tool post drill press that is pretty large for my lathes but it is inspiring me to consider doing in useful size.
I've used the taper on the end of a tap for making threads to expand a pipe in a hole but you need a way to access the bolt head. It would work well for a cutter like your dad made. The mandrel I made in this video worked very well. Making the large bore and band saw cuts deep was the trick. Making it from tubing would be easier to make long which would be a plus. Mine was limited by the drill length.
Thanks, It was a ton of work. I brought it back from the dead! Ha. I think is was a worthwhile effort. I like it better than y Logan, a bit ore solid. If you are interested I made a video: czcams.com/video/vrXBkqC6ttc/video.html
@@WinkysWorkshop wow, you did that yourself? I honestly thought you had bought it brand new, you did an amazing job!!!!!!!!! I will check out the link. Thank you again, loving your channel also!!
Winky you could design the mounting bracket to where you could still get to the oil port. I do like your indexing extension arm you added to the compound. I had made my tool post drill as short as I could get it with still little room to index from the side. Thanks for the idea I will have to make me an extension arm now to be able to do larger stuff.
I might drill a hole for the oil cup and make an extension although removing two nuts is pretty quick. Yeah, the extension is handy but make it thick so it doesn't flex. .
I’ve got an old Craftsman/Atlas lathe that has a large gear in the headstock(keyed to the spindle) with 60 small holes evenly spaced on the face of it. There is also a locking pin that fits into whichever hole is aligned with it. This is a very easy way to index the spindle/ chuck etc. it is built into the design of the lathe. Nice project though.
I've seen these before and it's a good idea. I probably could have used the bull gear teeth in my lathe too. My Logan has 72 teeth which works out well, not sure about the south bend.
What a great idea. Now you need another drilling adaptor with lead screw so you can cut gear teeth. :-) By the way a longer spigot for your index gear to put the taper deeper into the headstock would reduce the risk of index gear wobble. You could also use it to make index wheels with drilled holes (instead of teeth) for the index peg.
Thanks David! I have another video on indexing where I used a tapered pin in holes. It had 100 and 48 so it had more options. This gear method is a little stronger and easier to build. I never used more than the 2 3 and 4 positions anyway. The mandrel length was dictated by drill length. Pipe would have been a good option but I didn't have any the right size.
Hi Winky, I like this idea also. It does look a lot easier to make. I wouldn’t mind making both kinds of Indexing Wheels. Mainly because I don’t have very many extra gears, although I could get a Lot of combinations with the Gear. I want to make the larger one to try and make some bigger Dials for my little 6” Atlas. Hopefully someday I will have a bigger/better Lathe. Thanks again
I have a 1947 Atlas 12, and the spindle has 60 indexing marks built in to the bull gears, that’s divisible by most numbers I use for projects. It has a little pin that just slides in and out, makes it easy. But the pin itself is not rigid enough to do much more than scribing/layout. If I do tool post drilling, I need to use the bull gear engagement to lock the spindle to hold it rigid. Takes a little wiggling to get the gears to the right alignment to lock them. I like your setup, but it wouldn’t be very usable for what I do without some way to index it, and then lock the spindle. I drill a lot of holes at an angle off tangent, which I change by adjusting the height of the drill and usually have to start holes with a flat nose 4-flute endmill. If I tried to do that with this setup it would shake all over the place and vary the holes positions way too much to be useful. I do like this design, but I would need a spindle lock to combine with it. My drill completely replaces the compound/tool post, and as such, I can really only use it for flange hole type drilling. It’s pretty rigid, but it’s also limited to the two angles of carriage travel and cross-slide travel. I need to make a tool post drill like this to pair with a hand drill so I can drill at angles if need be. Not really a point to all this I’m saying, but yours is a pretty neat idea
@@WinkysWorkshop Currently Im working on a centrifugal pump type of invention and I don't have an impeller to use for a part of it, so i'm using a piece of round stock as a thick disc and basically drilling around the perimeter of it about an inch below center to create a somewhat pump/impeller effect with the holes slanting slightly backwards to the direction of rotation to move fluid from the center to the outer diameter of the rotor more easily, like cuts in a pie except not meeting in the center haha. This component is basically a cars water pump, just a home made one. I'm currently a hobby guy, I cant call myself a machinist, but I definitely have a passion for this and i'm hoping to go to a local tech school here come january so I can do it professionally, but right now i'm just making my own projects. I have an Atlas 12 and a Smithy BX288 and I can make just about whatever I need, but there is always an infinite amount to learn, and I need to learn how to do things the "right" way so I can make it a career. In my original comment I should have added to "I don't really have a point to this -BUT I love talking about machining equipment in general"
@@WinkysWorkshop I just came across your channel and I'm seeing a lot of excellent tips and tricks, I appreciate you taking the time to document these ideas, it can be such a drag to film what you're working on, and I rarely have the patience for it. So big thank You for doing so
@@nikolaishriver7922 - Making a video isn't too bad if you have a clear plan. Sometimes I'm inventing as you go and that makes it a lot more difficult. I've spent several hours on a video and abandon the effort several times. Just the other day I was making a better knurling tool.... but it wasn't better, ha
If you have 42-45-48 gears you can do 1 to 9 divisions, plus some more like 14, 15, 16, 21, 24 If you have 60, it can do 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 12, 15 by itself.
you may want a better indexing pin that is either a wider ball tip or one which meshes better with the gears to remove runout. if you ever forget, and the lathe is running and the gear-bar is present, that exposed gear is a safety hazard (binding pinch point...)
There is about .0015" slop in the pin but the shape of the pin seats fairly well. There is no significant load on the gear. If there was I would make the pin more like a tooth profile (runout?). I don't run the lathe with the gear installed although even if I did I have no business running a lathe if I can't keep my fingers away from the gear. There are many places on the lathe the are equally dangerous and very exposed. Personal responsibility and common sense need to be practiced.
For indexing on the lathe, why do you need to make something to do it? The lathe already does it for you because when it is threading it makes the work rotate a certain number times per inch per the thread pitch. The idea here is reversing the concept that so that by measuring the cross slide movement with threading engaged you can convert that to a degree rotation in the chuck. (So for a 8 TPI engagement, every full rotation = 0.125"; therefore, with that TPI engaged, an eighth of a rotation of the chuck would be 1/64" = 0.015625" which while small, is measurable) Just put a dial indicator on the bed against the cross slide, and have the compound 90 degrees to the cross slide. With threading engaged, rotate the chuck (by hand) until the dial indicator says the correct number. Move the compound back the same distance so the tool stays where it should. Do your operation and then zero out the indicator and repeat. I've been meaning to try this out on my lathe, just haven't gotten around to it yet, so let me know how it works out.
Hi Winky, I just tuned into your channel the first time today. I sure would like to see a little better how you mounted your drive motor and Jack shaft for this lathe. I am curious the purpose of the lever that you moved at 6:04 in this video. I just inherited an older lathe that has the flat belt/Jack shaft/v-belt arrangement as yours but came in a box. Have you made a video on this arrangement or plan to?
That was a home made setup although the cone pulley and v-belt pulley came with the lathe. South Bend did make a drive system that attached to the v on the top of the bed that looked similar to mine. The previous owner of my lathe drill holes in the back of the bed and utilize these holes. it would be better to use the factory setup if you can. Here's a playlist of my south bend rebuild. maybe it will provide answers. The lever is a motor revierse. czcams.com/video/vrXBkqC6ttc/video.html
I'll remove it when I'm not using the indexing. I usually oil it about every 3rd time I use the lathe. Probably over kill but I run the bearings a bit on the tight side and I'd hate to burn them up!
Thanks... yeah, it was a lucky find. You could use a 24 tooth and get most the same combinations. The gear I found is very heavy duty... massive overkill. I'd say you could find a lighter weight 48 or 24 tooth gear on ebay fairly cheap. Even new for around $35 maybe.
Thanks for the video. that got me to look for a 48 tooth gear and it appears that i have one covered in rust, when i cleaned it it showed center marks at certain points for indexing already, i think the previous owner did that.. or the owner before the previous owner... ;)
Hi Winky. When I try to bore out a hole to a larger size on my Jet drill press, the bit always gets stuck in the part and often the whole chuck comes out of the spindle. I’m using a key to tighten the bit in the chuck. What might be wrong? Thanks, Paul
Maybe the hole you are enlarging it too close to the size you are drilling. If you are enlarging a 3/4 hole to 7/8 the bit will grab. Bigger steps in drill size will stop this. As far as the chuck coming out goes.... I'd say the tapers might be in bad shape.
But what if you want to make a 6 fluted reamer. You cannot have the reamer have even spacing, because that would cause chatter. Would you skip some teeth? It needs 1st 0 2nd 59.0769 3rd 121.1538 4th 178.8462 5th 241.3846 6th 298.8462 Degrees. But 1 tooth is 360/48= 7,5 degrees. So that is off to much. A normal dividing head has a 40 to 1 ratio, with 39 holes disk. 2nd 4 holes less, 3rd 5 more, 4th 7 less, 5th 6 more, 6th 5 less. So could you get a lot of gears to make it so that you get these ratios? I have seen lathes with a dividing head. And i definitely need one if i want to make reamers. The way you did it is pretty clever! Would a closed stepper motor, and pulley wheel be good as an dividing head for the lathe with that kind of precision?
@@WinkysWorkshop Its how it is written in the book Machinery handbook 27th edition. "Irregular Spacing of Teeth in Reamers", page 833. Its to prohibit chatter. Ive read a lot about making barrels for rifles. And on chamber reamers. They need to have the uneven spacing. And its a real hassle to get it drawn in 3D CAD. Let alone to machine it. A reamer that can ream out existing barrels is even harder to get right while those are spiral reamers, so they wont get stuck on the rifling. If i ever want my blackpowder gun to shoot straight i will have to ream out the barrel with a spiral reamer, and build a cut rifling assembly with gears and pinion gears, like this: czcams.com/video/piaZjbdu4Ok/video.html. I think its amazing. Then you really need something to keep the right angles when making the grooves, but you will need the spindle bore to house the barrel. So putting something in the bore wont do. So im still looking for a solution. That can do everything, uneven spacing, and even spacing, without obstructing the spindle bore.
Could go to your computer and design a plate with all the capable patterns this gear can offer and then adhere it to the gear. Just an idea. Thumbs Up!
Logic and reason took over. Driving to the grocery store puts me at much higher risk that anything I was doing in this video. Safety is important and I'm sure their are times when I could do better but there has to be a balance. Fortunately this balance is now decided by me and not a paid safety person that is trying to determine if scratching my ass is a safety violation.
Happiness is a hot mug of Joe and a Winky's Workshop video!
Thank you.
Chris
Wow... Thanks!
Winnie, you are a great machinist and one smart dude. Thank you for taking the time to show us your great work.
Haha, Winky not Winnie but thanks all the same! Ha
Hi there from South.Africa. It is really nice to see you using the Southbend , all the tools you make and sharing it with us . It is absolutely motivating to say the least . I have a small Lantaine lathe and a Walker Turner drill press i restored . Me and my son are currently finishing an old 2 metre Cardiff lathe to add to the tooling for his turbocharger business that he runs from his garage at home . Your video on the square colomn drill press is just awesome . I recently bought a nice drill press but with a rediculously short pillar . I think it is a good candidate for a square colomn. Thank you for sharing all this good stuff with us .
Thanks you for the great comment. And yes, the square column drill press is a major improvement. If you make one, make the two arms that support the lower bearings a little wider and consider tack welding then in place. My table flexes a little under heavy load. Thanks again!
Wow what a nicely restored old lathe! And the indexing device was to me as genius as it was simple. Thanks man! 😀👍
Thanks! I love this little lathe. I got a super good deal on it but you might say I brought it back from the grave. I need to get some new gears for it. They work but they are noisy.
Very clever, well done. If you have enough motivation, re-make the indexing arbor to gain more contact area when it is expanding. Drill relief holes at the end of your slots, reduce the diameter of the tapered draw pin and cut the same taper on the OD of the arbor. This way when you pull it in tight, the arbor will expand parallel to the bore. Right now it's more like a small hole gauge.
[edit - like an adjustable reamer stays parallel when expanding] Stay safe and well :)
That's a great idea although a bit more involved. Thanks!
Pretty clever as usual! You must stay up all night thinking of these projects. Nice job!
Ha... thanks. My mind has more energy than my body that's for sure!
Glad to have someone like you willing to share the knowledge. I’m a young man who always should interest in metal work. The older generations I’m around wants to keep the knowledge a secret for some reason. But now I’m passing them because of people like you.
Glad to be of some help.
Your so right, why do some of the most talented people want to keep what they know inside.....it is so foolish....my brother is a pottery turner, and has some wonderful glazes, and he said he will die with them in his head.....WHY?......his glazes are one of a kind..... I may have convinced him to write a book on them....I'm a former High School shop teacher....and I shared everything with my students....
What a great ingenious design!
Yeah and easy and accurate too. Thanks!
Brilliant idea, simple but effective!
Thanks... I have used it a lot.
Great Ideal. That is a useful addition to your lathe.
Thanks 👍
A well made drill powered tool post grinder can grind, drill and cut keyways.. an excellent addition to any workshop...
Absolutely
Outstanding design! And simple... THANKS!
Glad you like it! The only issue I have with it is the slight slop on the pin. Also.... in most cases its within the tolerances I need.
That's a brilliant idea. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure!
Huh, well that's dang clever. Simple, clever, and most importantly VERY useful! This should be a standard accessory on any decent lathe.
Thanks, I've actually used it a lot and 48 tooth gears are fairly common.
Simply brilliant!
Wow!
Great solution! :)
Well thanks!
Nicely engineered. That is a nice old lathe.
Thanks. That old lathe looked bad when I got it. It was a huge job to restore but worth the effort I think.
Many thanks for the information and the added knowledge and experience.
You bet! Thanks for watching
Hi Winky,
That would be an useful addition to most lathes... Thanks for sharing.
Take care
Paul,,
Thanks. I used my old indexer 5 or 6 times but didn't have one for my South Bend I like the new one better.
Great looking lathe. Another nice video!
Thank you very much!
Good idea Wink, I'll have to give that a go
Thanks!
You’re a Great Inventor/ problem solver Winky 👍 really enjoying the Videos
Thank you sir!
Oh yes pretty good,and pretty easy to follow.Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks
Brilliantly simple, the best things are 👍
Couldn't agree more! Simple is almost always better.
Well done Winky. Another cleverly made tool.
Thanks... I liked the thing you made for installing the hose end. I need to finish watching the video. Did you crimp the end?
@@WinkysWorkshop no the ferrule was too big for the crimper. I am going to start using the Wurth fittings that compedgex showed in his video. much simpler, quicker, easier.
G'day and greetings from Tasmania Australia, that's one beautiful lathe. John
Thanks John, that lathe was a big job but worth the effort I think. czcams.com/video/vrXBkqC6ttc/video.html
very nice vido Wink,enjoyed it.thanks for sharing with us.see you next time.
Thanks Ray!
Thanks for the idea and great video with explanations! Very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Nice idea and nicely done
Glad you liked it, thanks!
Great idea for my mini lathe
Go for it! Thanks for watching
Great idea!
Glad you think so! It works very well.
Nice work. I like making things better and more useful too.
Thank your sir, I feel the same.
Man that’s pretty! Great job 👍🏻👍🏻
Gears are cool! Thanks
Really enjoy the craftsmanship handiwork and clear explanation of the processes thanks
Thank you very much!
Great idea, be making me one soon.
Great info thanks.
Go for it! And you are welcome.
This was very cool!
Thanks. I love the simplicity.
Very clever, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
I like it. Nice job!
Thanks!
Very nice work. I like the system. May incorporate it onto my lathe.
Thanks, fairly simple too.
Sounds for all the world like an old repulsion induction motor when it starts.. Love your lathe.. I have a 1957 sixteen inch South Bend running on three phase.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana
Yes, I bought 20 motors for $100 just to get this motor for the south bend but I ended up keeping 9 of them. I need to take the motor apart again. I cleaned it up and replaces the wires that went through the housing. I need to take the shorting necklace apart, occasionally it won't start and it's getting worse. I milled a slot in a cover and installed a remote reverse lever. You can see the lever when I reverse the lathe while tapping. czcams.com/video/xauJcjrINy0/video.html
I have a 1957 sb16 as well! Hard bed. I run a 5hp RPC off the wife’s dryer outlet for it.
She does not approve!
@@alexblackburn627 My 1957 started life as a turret lathe.. I changed everything over to engine lathe configuration.. I too ran mine from a 5hp home made rpc until I got three phase from the power company.... I have enough power from Entergy to run 50 hp now.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana
meg I need to look into my energy company! I already trolled them over a duel lug power meter to power my garage sub panel and have yet to complete that endeavor hah.
If you don’t mind me asking, how much did the line cost to get 3p into your shop not including the breaker box and such?
I’m in Cincinnati in a residential cul-de-sac so I probably don’t have the option. My 1951 index 55 knee mill and lathe running together really suck the life out of my RPC’s 3rd leg
@@alexblackburn627 I live right across the street from a power sub station so the three phase overhead line is very close... They hung a small transformer for the third leg and use the existing transformer feeding my house for the other two legs.....It is 120 240 208 "open delta" that is about 87% efficient but it is better if you have 220 single phase motors....I had to cut a check to the power company for 1000 dollars for them to supply to the meter which I had to provide....If I would have had a large enough demand, they would have provided what I had to pay them for for free.. cheers; Mike in Louisiana (Ramsay 1 on Practical Machinist)
Thanks Wink I'm going to copy that if you don't mind The spring mechanism reminded me of the zip guns that we made when we were kids many moons ago
Your welcome, thanks for watching! The pin part number is in the description.
Nice idea!
Thanks
as an alternative turning a taper on the shaft to seat into the headstock bore on the gearbox side would align the tool as well, assuming the headstock bore is true. Great Idea, I will be making one for my SB in the future.
Somebody else said the same... Very true, that would be a good idea although the exact amount of taper might be hard to determine. Thanks
Excellent
Thanks
I think I have a video up where I made a cutter by knurling. I was exposed to increasing diameter and making cutters for softer materials in my dads race shop. In his case, he made tools to line bore 356 and 911 cases when there was an issue with the crank binding as the case was torqued up. I've also considered making an expanding mandrel by producing an incomplete thread. ;-) Gaining the expanding taper from the end of the tap/threads. I've not used the method yet. A lathe without an indexing method is an issue. I need to make a better drilling rig. I like yours. I have a tool post drill press that is pretty large for my lathes but it is inspiring me to consider doing in useful size.
I've used the taper on the end of a tap for making threads to expand a pipe in a hole but you need a way to access the bolt head. It would work well for a cutter like your dad made. The mandrel I made in this video worked very well. Making the large bore and band saw cuts deep was the trick. Making it from tubing would be easier to make long which would be a plus. Mine was limited by the drill length.
Very nice idea.👍
Thanks
eccelent work winky.i,ll be making similar on my lathe
Cool, thanks
thats a beautiful lathe!!!!!
Thanks, It was a ton of work. I brought it back from the dead! Ha. I think is was a worthwhile effort. I like it better than y Logan, a bit ore solid. If you are interested I made a video: czcams.com/video/vrXBkqC6ttc/video.html
@@WinkysWorkshop wow, you did that yourself? I honestly thought you had bought it brand new, you did an amazing job!!!!!!!!! I will check out the link. Thank you again, loving your channel also!!
@@emanekaf4107 - Thanks! Yeah the lathe was in very bad shape when I got it. I only paid $100 for it so the time spend was worthwhile.
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice work
Thanks, I've use this a lot
Very nice, well done :)
Thank you very much!
I like this guy
Thanks you sir.
thanks for the tip, that a KNURL actually "expands" the diameter! have the tool, but haven't used it yet! nice to know!
You're welcome. Knurling is kind of tricky but starting with significant pressure helps.
Very slick idea. Another simple thing a person could use in a pinch is a sprocket.
Very true! Lot of possibilities.
Winky you could design the mounting bracket to where you could still get to the oil port. I do like your indexing extension arm you added to the compound. I had made my tool post drill as short as I could get it with still little room to index from the side. Thanks for the idea I will have to make me an extension arm now to be able to do larger stuff.
I might drill a hole for the oil cup and make an extension although removing two nuts is pretty quick. Yeah, the extension is handy but make it thick so it doesn't flex. .
Great idea...... again. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks again!
Thank you for sharing. I would like to make this.
Go for it! Your welcome.
I’ve got an old Craftsman/Atlas lathe that has a large gear in the headstock(keyed to the spindle) with 60 small holes evenly spaced on the face of it. There is also a locking pin that fits into whichever hole is aligned with it. This is a very easy way to index the spindle/ chuck etc. it is built into the design of the lathe. Nice project though.
I've seen these before and it's a good idea. I probably could have used the bull gear teeth in my lathe too. My Logan has 72 teeth which works out well, not sure about the south bend.
He has the Atlas Craftsman made in Kazoo MI@@WinkysWorkshop
What a great idea. Now you need another drilling adaptor with lead screw so you can cut gear teeth. :-)
By the way a longer spigot for your index gear to put the taper deeper into the headstock would reduce the risk of index gear wobble. You could also use it to make index wheels with drilled holes (instead of teeth) for the index peg.
Thanks David! I have another video on indexing where I used a tapered pin in holes. It had 100 and 48 so it had more options. This gear method is a little stronger and easier to build. I never used more than the 2 3 and 4 positions anyway. The mandrel length was dictated by drill length. Pipe would have been a good option but I didn't have any the right size.
Nice job
Thanks!
Nifty!
Thanks
I like it
Thanks!
Hi Winky, I like this idea also. It does look a lot easier to make. I wouldn’t mind making both kinds of Indexing Wheels. Mainly because I don’t have very many extra gears, although I could get a Lot of combinations with the Gear. I want to make the larger one to try and make some bigger Dials for my little 6” Atlas. Hopefully someday I will have a bigger/better Lathe. Thanks again
I'd buy a gear on ebay and use a 100 tooth saw blade for the dials.
@@WinkysWorkshop sounds good, I’ll see what I can find. I might have to get a 100 Tooth Saw Blade also.👍
Very nice
And simple too. Thanks
Did I miss where the spring loaded pin came from? But excellent/elegant design. Liked that knurled solution to the loose fit!
Those things are kind of hard to find but McMaster Carr has then Part number 3403A14
Very cool idea. Add another item to the to do list. Thanks.
Your welcome, thanks for watching!
I have a 1947 Atlas 12, and the spindle has 60 indexing marks built in to the bull gears, that’s divisible by most numbers I use for projects. It has a little pin that just slides in and out, makes it easy. But the pin itself is not rigid enough to do much more than scribing/layout. If I do tool post drilling, I need to use the bull gear engagement to lock the spindle to hold it rigid. Takes a little wiggling to get the gears to the right alignment to lock them. I like your setup, but it wouldn’t be very usable for what I do without some way to index it, and then lock the spindle. I drill a lot of holes at an angle off tangent, which I change by adjusting the height of the drill and usually have to start holes with a flat nose 4-flute endmill. If I tried to do that with this setup it would shake all over the place and vary the holes positions way too much to be useful. I do like this design, but I would need a spindle lock to combine with it. My drill completely replaces the compound/tool post, and as such, I can really only use it for flange hole type drilling. It’s pretty rigid, but it’s also limited to the two angles of carriage travel and cross-slide travel. I need to make a tool post drill like this to pair with a hand drill so I can drill at angles if need be. Not really a point to all this I’m saying, but yours is a pretty neat idea
I had a wood lathe with indexing like you Atlas, nice feature. My curiosity has me wondering what you are making that need holes at an angle? Thanks
@@WinkysWorkshop Currently Im working on a centrifugal pump type of invention and I don't have an impeller to use for a part of it, so i'm using a piece of round stock as a thick disc and basically drilling around the perimeter of it about an inch below center to create a somewhat pump/impeller effect with the holes slanting slightly backwards to the direction of rotation to move fluid from the center to the outer diameter of the rotor more easily, like cuts in a pie except not meeting in the center haha. This component is basically a cars water pump, just a home made one. I'm currently a hobby guy, I cant call myself a machinist, but I definitely have a passion for this and i'm hoping to go to a local tech school here come january so I can do it professionally, but right now i'm just making my own projects. I have an Atlas 12 and a Smithy BX288 and I can make just about whatever I need, but there is always an infinite amount to learn, and I need to learn how to do things the "right" way so I can make it a career. In my original comment I should have added to "I don't really have a point to this -BUT I love talking about machining equipment in general"
@@WinkysWorkshop I just came across your channel and I'm seeing a lot of excellent tips and tricks, I appreciate you taking the time to document these ideas, it can be such a drag to film what you're working on, and I rarely have the patience for it. So big thank You for doing so
@@nikolaishriver7922 - Got yeah... that's a cool project
@@nikolaishriver7922 - Making a video isn't too bad if you have a clear plan. Sometimes I'm inventing as you go and that makes it a lot more difficult. I've spent several hours on a video and abandon the effort several times. Just the other day I was making a better knurling tool.... but it wasn't better, ha
If you have 42-45-48 gears you can do 1 to 9 divisions, plus some more like 14, 15, 16, 21, 24
If you have 60, it can do 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 12, 15 by itself.
It sounds like I should have used a 60 tooth. However 2, 3, and 4 are the most commonly needed at least that is all I have ever used, Thanks
Like it! 👍👍👍🖖
Thanks for the visit
you may want a better indexing pin that is either a wider ball tip or one which meshes better with the gears to remove runout. if you ever forget, and the lathe is running and the gear-bar is present, that exposed gear is a safety hazard (binding pinch point...)
There is about .0015" slop in the pin but the shape of the pin seats fairly well. There is no significant load on the gear. If there was I would make the pin more like a tooth profile (runout?). I don't run the lathe with the gear installed although even if I did I have no business running a lathe if I can't keep my fingers away from the gear. There are many places on the lathe the are equally dangerous and very exposed. Personal responsibility and common sense need to be practiced.
👍🏻
Thanks
For indexing on the lathe, why do you need to make something to do it? The lathe already does it for you because when it is threading it makes the work rotate a certain number times per inch per the thread pitch. The idea here is reversing the concept that so that by measuring the cross slide movement with threading engaged you can convert that to a degree rotation in the chuck. (So for a 8 TPI engagement, every full rotation = 0.125"; therefore, with that TPI engaged, an eighth of a rotation of the chuck would be 1/64" = 0.015625" which while small, is measurable) Just put a dial indicator on the bed against the cross slide, and have the compound 90 degrees to the cross slide. With threading engaged, rotate the chuck (by hand) until the dial indicator says the correct number. Move the compound back the same distance so the tool stays where it should. Do your operation and then zero out the indicator and repeat. I've been meaning to try this out on my lathe, just haven't gotten around to it yet, so let me know how it works out.
Interesting, I like your thinking but a gear is much easier.
Would that be effected by backlash?
Hi Winky, I just tuned into your channel the first time today. I sure would like to see a little better how you mounted your drive motor and Jack shaft for this lathe. I am curious the purpose of the lever that you moved at 6:04 in this video. I just inherited an older lathe that has the flat belt/Jack shaft/v-belt arrangement as yours but came in a box. Have you made a video on this arrangement or plan to?
That was a home made setup although the cone pulley and v-belt pulley came with the lathe. South Bend did make a drive system that attached to the v on the top of the bed that looked similar to mine. The previous owner of my lathe drill holes in the back of the bed and utilize these holes. it would be better to use the factory setup if you can. Here's a playlist of my south bend rebuild. maybe it will provide answers. The lever is a motor revierse. czcams.com/video/vrXBkqC6ttc/video.html
how often do you need to oil that sleeve bearing? because you covered up the oil port...
I'll remove it when I'm not using the indexing. I usually oil it about every 3rd time I use the lathe. Probably over kill but I run the bearings a bit on the tight side and I'd hate to burn them up!
where did you get the gear or was it just a lucky find? You have a lot of good ideas
Thanks... yeah, it was a lucky find. You could use a 24 tooth and get most the same combinations. The gear I found is very heavy duty... massive overkill. I'd say you could find a lighter weight 48 or 24 tooth gear on ebay fairly cheap. Even new for around $35 maybe.
love that lathe ,I've been looking for a south Bend myself ....is that a 30 inch?
It's a South Bend 11 and I think 24 between centers.
Thanks for the video.
that got me to look for a 48 tooth gear and it appears that i have one covered in rust, when i cleaned it it showed center marks at certain points for indexing already, i think the previous owner did that.. or the owner before the previous owner... ;)
Very cool!
Great idea and reuse of a old gear.
Yeah, 48 tooth is a useful number. I'd say fairly easy to find too. Thanks
Very cool dividing head idea, now I can make one for my old Atlas's lathes. Where did you put the spring in the locking pin. ?👍👍👍👍
I bought it from Mcmaster Carr Spring Plunger - McMaster Carr Part Number 3403A14
Brilliant simple solution
Thanks
MR Winky, how did u make ur locator pin spring loaded? I looked at ur tap guide the one I made sure dose look like urs.
Thanks again
Cool! The pin part number was in the description but here it is. McMaster Carr Part Number 3403A14
Nice lathe, my brother has one just like it. Who makes that type of lathe?
Its a South Bend 11 inch
Did you have to machine the plunger tip to fit the gear tooth?
Thanks a very good question. I can't remember. This video is a few years old. The link to the pin is in the description
What year was your ligan la5he made?
My current Logan is a 1947 model. I had a 1942 also
Hello my senior..how you sir?..I like your jobs all..nice full..good luck for you🤝💯👍👏👏🤝🤝🤝🤝
Thank you very much
Beautiful laite' your smart. Bet it cost a lot. I ha hf mini mill & laite'.
You would not believe what I paid for the lathe. No counting the gas to drive 120 miles it cost me $100! czcams.com/video/vrXBkqC6ttc/video.html
Do you have a video that shows making the spring loaded pin?
I got the pin from McMaster-Carr. The part number is in the description below the video. Thanks
Hi Winky. When I try to bore out a hole to a larger size on my Jet drill press, the bit always gets stuck in the part and often the whole chuck comes out of the spindle. I’m using a key to tighten the bit in the chuck. What might be wrong?
Thanks,
Paul
Maybe the hole you are enlarging it too close to the size you are drilling. If you are enlarging a 3/4 hole to 7/8 the bit will grab. Bigger steps in drill size will stop this. As far as the chuck coming out goes.... I'd say the tapers might be in bad shape.
Thanks Winky. It’s a new 20” drill press. I’ll try a step drill next time and yes, the sizes are close.
I like your videos.
my lathe has degrees on the spindle, is it not so common? it is a 575x 2000 hb cazenueve
I've never seen this. Some Atlas have 60 holes on a spindle gear,
nice, but I haven't any lathe, only a mill😂
You can lathe on your mill. But if you have a mill then you just use your rotary table...
How teeth this gear? Sorry my English
48 tooth. this gives me several common hole patterns. 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 12 etc.
@@WinkysWorkshop thanks. I copy this. Very interesting for house job
Hi Winky, Can you show how you make the Retractable Pin. Thanks
I bought it from McMaster Carr. The part number is in the description.
But what if you want to make a 6 fluted reamer. You cannot have the reamer have even spacing, because that would cause chatter. Would you skip some teeth?
It needs 1st 0
2nd 59.0769
3rd 121.1538
4th 178.8462
5th 241.3846
6th 298.8462
Degrees. But 1 tooth is 360/48= 7,5 degrees. So that is off to much. A normal dividing head has a 40 to 1 ratio, with 39 holes disk. 2nd 4 holes less, 3rd 5 more, 4th 7 less, 5th 6 more, 6th 5 less. So could you get a lot of gears to make it so that you get these ratios? I have seen lathes with a dividing head. And i definitely need one if i want to make reamers.
The way you did it is pretty clever! Would a closed stepper motor, and pulley wheel be good as an dividing head for the lathe with that kind of precision?
Uneven spacing? I'm fairly certain all my reamers have even spacing. Now I'll have to measure then! Ha
@@WinkysWorkshop Its how it is written in the book Machinery handbook 27th edition. "Irregular Spacing of Teeth in Reamers", page 833.
Its to prohibit chatter. Ive read a lot about making barrels for rifles. And on chamber reamers. They need to have the uneven spacing. And its a real hassle to get it drawn in 3D CAD. Let alone to machine it. A reamer that can ream out existing barrels is even harder to get right while those are spiral reamers, so they wont get stuck on the rifling.
If i ever want my blackpowder gun to shoot straight i will have to ream out the barrel with a spiral reamer, and build a cut rifling assembly with gears and pinion gears, like this: czcams.com/video/piaZjbdu4Ok/video.html. I think its amazing.
Then you really need something to keep the right angles when making the grooves, but you will need the spindle bore to house the barrel. So putting something in the bore wont do. So im still looking for a solution. That can do everything, uneven spacing, and even spacing, without obstructing the spindle bore.
@@jeffjefferson2676 - Interesting stuff. I'm sure you will figure out how to do both.
Could go to your computer and design a plate with all the capable patterns this gear can offer and then adhere it to the gear. Just an idea. Thumbs Up!
Very Cool idea although with the existing marks I get 2, 3, 4, and 6. It would be easy to do in cad. so I may do this anyway, thanks!
Isn't a threads for a spider in the rear on the headstock spindle...
Spider? Like a collet? No thread but the chuck side has a taper.
What happened to "PPE" and "Safety precautions"?
Logic and reason took over. Driving to the grocery store puts me at much higher risk that anything I was doing in this video. Safety is important and I'm sure their are times when I could do better but there has to be a balance. Fortunately this balance is now decided by me and not a paid safety person that is trying to determine if scratching my ass is a safety violation.
a notch so the pin cant vibrate and drop down?
Not a bad idea but I take it off when I'm not using the indexing. Thanks
S sir
simple and effective
why knurl it and not put a cone mid way down the spindle?
It goes in a few inches. I don't thing anything would be gained by going deeper. The knurl just helped keep it center.
!!!.