Tool Post Drill Jig
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- čas přidán 23. 10. 2018
- I need a tool post drill jig to do another "Uncle Tim" job, as it will require drilling offset holes into the face of a work piece in the lathe chuck. Been wanting one for a while anyway, this just hurried it up. It's not an original idea but my "variation on the theme," and it will fit BXA-style tool posts. While certainly not perfect, it will still make a better job of drilling into a face than doing it freehand.
If anyone is interested in contacting my friend Morgan for design work, please just e-mail me and I can get him in touch with you. And, like usual, if anyone thinks he or she could use the plans to make one or modify the plans to suit, then just shoot me an email and I'll gladly send you a copy.
As always, thanks for watching!
everettsworkshop@gmail.com
My neighbor's company who printed up the stickers:
www.risepromotions.ca/ - Zábava
Thank you Everette. This was the first vid of yours I've watched.
I'm hooked. Being a retired 70-year-old and lifelong hobbyist, I just bought a 12 X 24 Craftsman's 107 / Atlas 618. I'm soaking up as much as I can learn before I start my first project.
You got my sub easily.
Thanks Everett! I may have to add that to my build list as I can see where it could come in handy. Like your new logo too.
Thanks, I was surprised by Morgan's idea for the logo but I guess that is where the mind of an artist comes in and why he does what he does for a living. Been thinking of making up one of these things for a while now but will need it sooner rather than later.
Very well done. It seems like I too am always making a tool to make a tool or some such. But then making a tool is more satisfying than making anything else.
Thanks, Harold. I often laugh with my friends about the vicious circle we sometimes get in where we make a tool to make a tool (to sometimes make another tool) to make parts for something else. But I totally agree that making a tool, fixture, jig, or custom shop machine, is often more satisfying than the end parts that are put into something else.
Everett , you are a great machinist and teacher. Go Canada!
Thank you John, I appreciate the kind words. I'm just a hobbyist though, still learning new things with each project and from other more experienced metal workers here on CZcams.
Nice project Everett. I just watched this for a second time and am thinking that this will probably be on my list of things to do in the near future.
Thanks Robert, if I were to do it again I would try using ball bearings and also putting a thrust bearing behind the chuck, but for how often it gets used it works ok as it is.
And Another Tool Is Born , Good Job !! Had To Notice That Your Editing Skill Has Jumped Up Several Levels Two Thumbs Up
Thank you, I honestly thought this video was a bit rushed in spots as I had to cut some details and hurry through some stuff in an effort to keep it from being overly long. Thankful it sounds like the progression was able to be followed somewhat.
another handy dandy shop tool very nice job everett well done.
Thanks! It's why the fly cutter got made last time, in order to put a nicer surface finish on it than end mill swirls.
Everett, really like the adjustable wrench trick to index the chuck, wonderful build......cheeers from Florida, Paul
Thanks Paul, but I can't claim credit for the idea of indexing the chuck with a bar and a wrench - I have to credit Winky's Workshop for the idea as I saw him do it first and got the idea from him. Not sure if you're a sub of his but he's got some REALLY cool stuff on his channel, he's worth looking into.
When I made a drill chuck holder for a CXA holder I cut the dovetail first and then drilled the block. But either works. Your machines are way to clean!
That would definitely work as well, and when I get to making some dedicated boring bar holders that will be the method used to make the holes for the bars. As for machine cleanliness, I didn't think they were that clean at all - but hopefully they're covered in more swarf again soon. Thanks for watching!
Nice addition to the bag of tricks. Another option could be to flange the shaft behind the drill chuck and add a thrust bearing. Then you could use the carriage to provide the force.
Hi James, I've seen that done on a couple of other designs and you're right in that it would be a good addition and give more control. I'm thinking of doing a revisit and making improvements to the design, and perhaps also doing something to allow more options in indexing the spindle. Not sure about wanting to drill holes in the chuck yet, but there may be other ways. I do agree with you though, using the carriage for adding the drilling pressure would be better. Thanks for coming by!
Excellent! Being lazy I just used my boring bar holder and my 3/8" shank drill chuck from my micro mill. I had all the bits already, just needed your idea to put 'em together. Thanks!
Thanks! Can't claim it as an original idea, as a number of people have made different variations. For example, the fellow from Winky's Metalworking Tips used a boring bar holder with one long bushing, and Herb Blair used a block of aluminum with bushings in it but added a tab to use a commercial QCTP tool holder. I don't have a round-hole boring bar holder and not enough tool holders so figured it's easier to just cut the dovetail into the tool and it can be a one-use tool. Thanks for coming by!
Enjoyed the build Everett. I'll have to make one now even though I don't need one yet. It's a great project with a useful tool at the end. Tony
Thanks Tony, not an original idea on my part but does come in handy. Thinking about making an improved version with bearings at some point but that would have to be after getting more caught up on the project list!
Greetings from England. I enjoyed your video a lot, my friend made a few toolpost spindles similar to this and recently gave one to me for my lathe, it was similar but had a pulley wheel on the back which linked up to a 1200rpm motor mounted above the lathe via a rubber drive belt rather than connecting to the hand drill as you have done. I didn't think of just using a hand drill, though for some jobs the simplest methods are the best. Its great to see this creative approach to accurate metal work which you have demonstrated.
Thanks, this one works and is simple but does have a few drawbacks. Yours sounds like it could be used as a sort of tool post grinder as well, that would be a slick setup for sure!
@@EverettsWorkshop toolpost grinder, I did not think of that, might have to try that one
With the name Everett, all your work must be Steller!
Good to see the new fly cutter at work.
Nice editing Everette - showed all that mattered. Altogether a fine job - nicely done sir :)
Thanks Chris, I appreciate that coming from you. A couple "oopses" but at least the main part came across, and still trying some new things. Like I was saying to Steve, and you know it too, it's a bit of a challenge to get the content in that you want to convey yet stay within reasonable time constraints. Hope you're doing well.
where was fly cutter used?
@@davidjones-vx9ju 2:55 onward.
Looks good Everett its always nice to have tools made by your own hand. Cheers!
Thanks! I agree, making some of one's own equipment has a high degree of satisfaction to it. There are a number of pieces of equipment that I have drawn up and have materials for, just need the time to get to them . . . but I think all of us can say the same thing.
Very nice build. Enjoyed.
Thanks, Steve. As you know it's hard to fit everything in that you want to share without ending up with a very long video, glad it could still be enjoyable.
Just stumbled across this. Ironic to I just ordered some steel to make one and some more tool holders. Great job as always.
Thanks, I'm content with the outcome. It works, which is what I needed. Will be cool to see your holders once you get them done, I need to make some more BXA blocks in various configurations too. Hope you're doing well.
good video . I wouldn't have thought of that idea . Have to make one now.
Thank you, but it's not my idea. The idea has been used many times before but I got it from the fellow at Winky's Workshop. They're well worth making.
Nice Work Everett. Going to have to make one of those.
Cheers Fred
Thanks! Like a lot of our home made tools, it's a blend of ideas that others have used before - a "variation on a theme." Glad to see you back in the shop as well!
Never seeing one. The concept is excellent especially for the home machinist.
It wasn't my idea originally, just adapted the idea to what I had available. I first heard of it from the fellow from Winky's Workshop and needed it to do a job.
Just came across your channel and subscribed this drill project came out sweet! Look forward to more projects!.
Thanks Bill, I can see areas for improvement on a number of the homemade tools here, and may even do a follow up refinements video at some point. Gotta get the shaper done first. Thanks for your support!
Make the tool holder L-shaped and place the spindle such that the drill chuck is next to the tool post. This gives more space for longer drills or larger dia. work pieces when cross drilling.
Also make the spindle easily reversible so that this tool can be used for axial and cross drilling. Mounting a motor on the spindle makes it self contained. I use windshield wiper motors for this with a 3:1 toothed belt reduction. Gears may also be used.
Windshield wiper motors are incredibly robust and powerful. I run mine with up to 32 VDC from a power supply built for this purpose. The current can go up to 30 Amperes at this Voltage!
If you need a larger cross hole than this tool will drill, simply drill as large as possible and use that hole to line it up with that drillbit in the drill press. Clamp securely ans switch to the required drill size.
I used small taper roller bearings for my tool, which made it stiff an robust and suitable for small milling jobs in the lathe such as key ways. Lathe spindle needs secure clamping!
Nice video. Nice manner of presenting. It turned out well. Cheers.
Thanks, it worked as well as I needed it to for the time. Got a couple new parts accumulated and there will likely be a version 2.0 with improvements at some point down the road but need to get caught up with the to-do list (and sleep, new baby in the house) first . . .
If you turn it over and drill n tap the adjuster hole you can drill into the side of the shaft in the lathe . Even mill a key slot with the drill mounted like a turning tool. Done right spirals too. Nice job
Thanks! I had never thought of using it to mill a slot, but the shaft can be reversed to drill the side of a piece if necessary. Thinking about adding a thrust bearing as has been suggested by a few people, that would help controllability of tool pressure.
Before I watched this, I thought: "Tool post drill holder? They already make those." This is much cooler than I realized. I also like the adjustable parallel between pins technique : )
Thanks, I can't claim originality for the idea of the tool nor the use of adjustable parallels in measuring between the pins but the tool has proven itself handy and the adjustable parallels make the measurement easier, for sure. Glad you liked it!
Sorry to be offtopic but does any of you know a tool to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Collin Terrell instablaster =)
@Anderson Jude Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out atm.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Anderson Jude it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass!
At 19:43, "motion lotion" :)
Now, your uncle has been immortalized on the internet!
Yeah, I can't claim that as original to me, but my Uncle Marc is a pretty cool guy. Always looked up to him.
Nice one Everett I like that!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the project!
Liked the video - learned a few things. I can see I should add a mill to the shop. Maybe after the engine rebuild, attaching the gearbox and putting in the car!
Thanks Mal - this tool does work as it's designed but at some point I do want to make an improved version 2.0 . . . just need the time to do it, lol!
Crescent wrench/chuck indexing method is noteworthy! Subscribed 👍
Thanks, I can't take credit for the chuck jaw method of indexing, I first saw the fellow on Winky's Workshop do it and got the idea from him. Thanks for coning by!
@@EverettsWorkshop I saw what you are talking about, but he used a dowel or something if I remember right. I like the wrench. I like his channel too. Thing is, it is impossible to see everything so sharing ideas around is a way for more people to see it who might not have otherwise...it is a good thing 👍
Nice job, liked the filming and the editing as much as the content. Thumbs up and subscribed.
Thanks Steve, glad you like it. I try to make the best videos I can with what I've got so just thankful people like yourself find something useful in them.
Just found your channel and subbed. You have given me a new direction for my projected build of a similar device/tool holder. I intend to make one for a 3 or maybe 4 Morse taper, however with seeing this I will also have a bushed hollow Morse so I can do this as well. With the idea I will also be able with indexing I have already set up in my Lathe be able to drill holes at an angle to the axis of the spindle by adjusting the compound slide and feeding the bit in this way, of course with some form of thrust bearing.
Very Good Video, thanks for sharing, Cheers Mate, John, Australia.
Thanks, glad you like what you see so far. The idea is not mine nor original but it is my "variation on a theme." Gotten suggestions to add a thrust bearing and use the carriage to apply pressure instead of pushing on the drill, and I like the idea. Glad it could be of help in your brainstorming, thanks for coming by and joining in!
@@EverettsWorkshop Thanks Mate learned a bit and that is why I YT I should share a few things here as well as I can't take them with me when I leave. John.
I did the same thing using the boring bar holder mount bored out to fit standard ball bearings and a straight shank er30 collet holder.
The shaft slides in the bearings it did not take long to make.
An ER collet holder would work well, that would be cool if you had one to use. I don't have a hole-style BXA boring bar holder either, so that's why I went this route as I didn't want to spend a bunch of money. Yours is a good idea though, thanks for sharing!
Your a man after my own heart, I see your using full size tooling dovetailed to fit your block. On my tooling I use 1/4 x 20 for adjusters, it’s easier to fit in the blocks than 3/8. Since the dovetail holds the force the adjuster just holds the center distance.
Well, part of it is trying to be cheap - the cost of BXA tool blocks adds up over time, even using import ones. Besides, I haven't cut a dovetail in a while and just wanted to :) Got a few more chunks of block that are earmarked for various BXA-dovetailed tooling pieces, just have more pressing stuff on the list to get done first!
I understand cheep. The main reason I did my tools was because I had access to the tools and inserts. That is why I direct mount. Plus
I think it’s more rigid
Great work... I might have to do something like this myself.
Thanks Wayne, it wasn't my idea but it is a handy little tool. After hearing some comments though, I might revisit it and make some upgrades to it that I hadn't really considered while making it. Glad you enjoyed it.
Great job enjoyed the project
Thank you! Glad you liked it.
With the name Everett, all your work must be Steller! 😆👍
Lol, well, not all of it, for sure . . . it's cool to meet others with the same name though, as there aren't a lot of us under age 75 and above 15
Very cool. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you, it's not my original idea but it's my version of the tool. Thanks for coming by!
I made one of these out of a standard BXA #4 250-204 boring bar holder. I also made another one from a 250-204 that holds a Dremel flex shaft attachment for grinding.
That is cool, I have seen others make them from boring bar holders and there is nothing wrong at all with doing it that way. In fact, if you can get those holders cheap enough it is a great option. I just happened to have a chunk of steel available, and the BXA series holder costs are higher in Canada than the US. I also wanted the practice in cutting dovetails, so that's partly why I went for the homebrew version, lol. Thanks for coming by!
nice job and very nice jig... welldone
Thank you, it works for what I need. Had some good suggestions for design improvement, might happen down the road as time allows. Thanks for coming by!
Great work. Thank you for sharing
Thanks Donald, I'm glad you are enjoying the channel!
Very nice! Now I'm off to make one myself :)
Thanks! It's not an original idea but they are handy for sure. Thanks for coming by!
Lovely job mate 👌
Thanks! Not perfect, but it works like a charm for the purposes I have for it.
Great job. I need a mill so I can do some of these projects. seems like if you have a lathe the next step is a way to do milling operations.
Thank you for the kind words, I hope it has been helpful in coming up with ideas. It is not mine to start with, I originally got the idea from Mark over at Winky's Workshop. If I were to make it again I would do two things differently: use ball or roller bearings, and single point cut the threads for the chuck.
I've seen people make all sorts of stuff by milling on a lathe, you could make a tool like this by milling on a lathe milling jig. If you haven't seen some of his older stuff, Chris at Just1GuyMetalWorks ( www.youtube.com/@Just1GuyMetalworks ) was doing this before he got his mill.
When you put press on the outside it has to go somewhere..............lol ! I seen that coming. Nice video and editing.
Yeah, lol, that was a bit silly on my part but was able to still make it work. It's just sometimes hard for an amateur to estimate how much a bushing ID will compress when the bushing is installed.
Nicely done.
Thanks! At some point I'd like to make an improved version but this one does what I need it to do for the moment.
Nice project, well done.
Thanks Randy, I appreciate that!
Very nice job !
Thanks! If I were to do it again I would make a few changes, but it works for what I need at the moment.
Great video. Ontario Loves Alberta!
Thanks! Sadly I have yet to see anything of Ontario but Pearson Int'l, but hopefully some day we'll have a chance to travel through the province. Got family in Nova Scotia, maybe a road trip is in order. Thanks for stopping by!
Ottawa is nice. I have family inNS along the Eastern Shore in a village called Mushaboom
First time on you,re channel, and I am IMPRESSED! Been thinking of something similar for a miniture tool post grinder-polisher for hardened surfaces. Was going to use qaud high speed bearings with thrust capability and 1/4 inch collet to be powered by 25000 rpm air die grinder.(NOISY I KNOW)>Figure traveling with carriage could improve some precision fits and apearences over standard single point. tooling For everyone, protect all of your lathe ways when using any abrasives-including sandpaper and polishing compounds! Figure a large piece turning slow on lathe, and high speed-small tool-much safer than the opposite? Also on HUGE lathe watched someone SPLINE a four inch skidder axle using a simialer shop made tool with an end mill and me (ten years old)holding the drill motor, while he fed the carriage.Thanks to you and the comments, time for me to GETTER DONE.
Thanks Charles, I make my fair share of mistakes and am still learning new aspects of machining with different projects. This tool post drill jig was put together quickly with what I had on hand for a project my Uncle Tim needed. It works for the most part but I do want to make a better one at some point down the road that uses bearings and that can use the carriage for travel. Just need time for that, which of late has been in short supply for me. Glad you liked it, hopefully some of the other projects around here are interesting to you as well!
Thanks for a very well done video. My plan after watching this is to pretty much duplicate what you’ve done here, with one minor deviation. After evaluating my machine, it appears that shifting the dovetail will allow the chuck to be used 90° to shaft center.
This would allow the tool (in my application) to be used in either X or Z axis
Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad you liked it! One handy thing about this tool is that the shaft can go in from either end, so it can be used for X or Z drilling by reversing the direction of the chuck.
Beautiful machining. Really useful tool. Subbed.
Thanks! It was the first one I did, trying to use only what I had in the shop as it was needed for a job. I may make another, more "upgraded" version down the road but for now this one works. Glad you like the channel, thanks for the kind words!
Another option would be to add a thrust bearing between the block and the back of the chuck. That would allow you to push with lathe and not try to apply even pressure with the drill. It would also allow you the use stops on the table ways to set depth stops. Of course looking at the video date, this about a year and a half late.
When I made this tool it was a quick build on the cheap for a project I needed to do for my uncle. In retrospect there are a number of upgrades that could be done but just not sure about available shop time in the next while. I might even make another one with roller bearings, a thrust bearing, and a mount that goes right on the compound rather than the cross slide. All if I can get some time and some other jobs off my to-do list.
nice job buddy handy item
Thanks Jason, it's come in handy a number of times now, especially for making bolt hole circles.
Nice job dude! Subbed!!
Thank you, hopefully it continues to be interesting content for you as time goes on. Thanks for coming by!
I love it! Would be great for a quick traverse drill chuck for them small diameter holes too 😁. Beautiful work, thanks for the share!
Thanks, it's not my idea but it's what I came up with using what was on hand.
Nice work! Hi precision.
Thanks, there are only a few bits of this thing that need a higher precision, the rest is more forgiving. It works for what I need it to do. Thanks for joining in!
that looks pretty good!
Thanks Emma, it works well enough to serve its purpose. At some point I would like to make a bigger, improved version but it is still handy as it is. Wish I could join #tmc2020 but sadly won't have the time this year.
@@EverettsWorkshop ots pme pf those things that its easy to over complicate then it never gets made. yours is working already
Nice job on it
Thanks! Not my idea, but I was content with the result and it works for my needs. Thanks for coming by!
Very nice job Everette, it sure turned out nice!
Thanks, Richard. Hope you're doing ok.
doing fine, Thanks...Keep up the good work
Nice video, sir :-)
I was thinking (sometimes a dangerous proposition) ...if you left the brass bushing to full length, then relieved some in the center, to get two bearing surfaces, with a bit lower friction and 'stiction', then insert the full length with the press (maybe cool the brass part, too), you get guaranteed alignment of the 'two' bushings, as one piece, then ream it to .501 (12,7254 mm ;-) ), the fit is perfect, and aligned.... just another idea to get the true centre; reverse the drill rod, so that the Jacob's chuck is away from the lathe chuck, loosen the tool holder clamp and back off the adjustment nut, then insert the 'round rod' part of the drill into the lathe chuck, gently screw down the jaws, while allowing the vertical position to be pulled into place, and adjusting the cross slide at the same time...this should guarantee that the drill is coaxial to the chuck/spindle, I hope ;-)
BTW, what's that rifle in your intro?
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video! You are right about a one-piece bushing vs a two-piece pushing as far as minute amounts of misalignment would be concerned - one-piece would guarantee alignment but the two-piece way was easier for me. As for setup, the idea of using the chuck to align center should work as you say, as long as the runout of the chuck is acceptable for what you are working on. Depending on which diameter is being clamped, my 3-jaw can have a few thousandths, where aligning using the center drilled hole in a part (as long as it was drilled on that mounting in the chuck) guarantees spindle center line.
And the rifle is a buddy's Savage .308 - a while back I was experimenting with making muzzle brakes, and that was a simple one.
Thanks for your thoughts and for coming by!
I think that the combination of a dead center in the tailstock, and a 'good' centre-drilled feature in the chuck or collet, with the cross-slide position and angle, plus tool-holder, all 'floating', looks pretty good to me... I reviewed the video to see again how you were aligning, and it was not 'visible' that you had used the tailstock to provide the other point needed for axial alignment, I just had to listen a bit more closely ;-) best regards from CET
Very nice job from UK
Thank you! For being made from what I have on hand it works for what I need it to do.
@@EverettsWorkshop An air drill could work well with it also. some of my work.
czcams.com/video/6-RcuMaQ92k/video.html
czcams.com/video/AUiFNZ9WU0k/video.html
czcams.com/video/ZAZ-f2VGAiM/video.html
Great tool
Thank you, it wasn't my idea originally but has been proving itself handy. Thanks for coming by!
Excellent !
Thank you! Can't claim it was my concept, but it's my variation on the theme.
You could have a lucrative career as a John Ritter impersonator. The resemblance is incredible.
Lol, you know, I don't see the resemblance but have had a few other people say that in my comments . . .
A good way to line up the toolpost chuck is to put a piece of known straight round stock in the three jaw chuck and then put that material into the drill chuck and then move the cross-slide so there is no binding then tighten down on the drill chuck
Yep, that would work well too, I just figured that lining it up the way I did was easy for what I needed to do - hence the center drill hole in the back of the shaft.
If you need to drill holes off set from center, use a four jaw chuck, and center each hole using the tailstock with a center to bring it to position. Unless the part is longer than what the chuck is deep and the through hole of the lathe would have to be used, the offset would depend on the diameter of the shaft compared to the size of the through hole. So if the offset is so much where the through hole could not be used then the tool you made would not be able to be used anyways. But you did a great job, keep your tools clean, spoke well, and seem to know what your doing.
Thanks Jim, it's not an original idea but just my own take on the idea - a number of people have made them and shared how they did. I can see how your 4-jaw method would work, for sure, but it wouldn't have worked for the axles I had to make. Besides, now I have another useful tool out of the deal!
Very good idea for a jomemade tool.
Thank you for the kind words, but I do have to give credit where credit is due - I got the idea from Mark over at Winky's Workshop and just made it to suit what I had for materials and my tool post. Here's his channel link, he's worth subbing if you haven't already:
www.youtube.com/@WinkysWorkshop
Nice new tool. I hear it's legal to smoke in Canada now. 😜 I like the new logo as well. Thanks for another great project video!
Thanks for the kind words! Yeah, it's now legal to have small amounts on you for "personal use," but it really doesn't affect me directly as I don't use the stuff. Honestly I've never touched it, and I'm originally from BC!
Yah, I know a few guys in BC that indulge from time to time. I know they grow some good stuff up there, I've partaken a time or two with them! 😎
I just found your Chanel looks good
Thank you, I appreciate that. I enjoy tinkering and making videos, it just has to come as I get time to be in the shop. Thanks for coming by, hope you find what happens here interesting.
Muy ingenioso.. sigue bajando videos son muy buenos...
Muchas gracias amigo, estoy agradecido de que encuentres los videos interesantes!
Thank you for sharing, nive work and video, I think I will make my self one, but I don't have a mill yet, it will have to be later, have a good day.
Hey, thanks for the kind words, I appreciate them! If you have a lathe and an angle plate you could cut the dovetail using the lathe, one guy who uses his lathe for everything is Ade from Ade's Workshop - czcams.com/users/ade63dug - you might get some good ideas for how to set up for milling in a lathe from him!
Just buy a boring 3/4" boring bar holder is is the same tool with out the bushings in it. I did this and just put 3/4 to 1/2 stinterd bushing in it and had the same tool in about 5 min. About $15 for the holder on eby
@@EverettsWorkshop Thank you for the heads up, I look at his chanel all the time, and take some of the ideas, however, my little lathe is G4000 and I have to keep doing things to it so I can make correct parts. Thank you for the advice and have a good day.
I use end mills if i dont have a reamer just need to grind down the shank for the chuck
I have used them too for a number of non-milling procedures. I also like them for poor man's counterbores, like when you have a socket head cap screw to set sub-flush to a surface. Just need some that are sharper now, lol . . .
It came out nice. Just need to use some tool black or bluing to keep it from rusting.
Thanks! Haven't used bluing much on tools, mostly on small rifle parts. Guess I could give it a shot, most of the homemade tools of mine have been left "in the white," or painted. Might do some playing with that when the to-do list of "Uncle Tim" and buddies' projects starts getting shorter.
I like it. Great work. xynudu built something similar, but he powers it with a small DC motor.
Thanks, it's certainly not my idea but works for what I need it for. At some point it may get redone with bearings instead of bushings, we'll see.
Great videos, Why didn't you consider drilling the squared block on a mill? just curious, i am new to machining so i want to know if there is something i am missing or the reason why you choose to do it on lathe. Thanks for the videos.
Thank you for the kind words! For what it's worth the hole could be done on a mill or lathe, really. I just did it on the lathe as it's faster for me to change speeds between drill sizes than the mill, but one can use either.
Very nice👍
Thanks! It works for what I need.
Nicely done. Do you think that brass will hold up over time?
Thanks! I would have preferred a bronze or Oilite bushing material but brass is what I had. It isn't a tool that is used often, so it should be ok. If it does get a little bit of play in the bushings then I'll re-bush it then. Thanks for coming by, and also for what it's worth I like what you've got going on over at your channel. Cool stuff!
very good
Thank you! Not an original idea, but it's from what I had on hand, and it works!
Nice video, I didn't see you square up the new tool in the tool post with the work piece before you backed it out to do the small holes. I am assuming you did so, else the holes would be drilled at an angle.??
Thanks! What I did was lined it up with a pointed tool in the chuck, the point into the center drilled hole in the work piece, and the tail stock live center poked into the center drill in the rear of the drill chuck shaft. then the tool post and dovetail were locked and the cross slide shifted toward me by 1/2 the bolt circle (the radius). The cross slide was then locked and the three holes were drilled and I could be assured of them being square. Thanks for the question, I might not have shown enough of the setup in the video. It's always a balance between content and length. Thanks for stopping by!
Very cool! At 19:43 you are using what looks to be a tap wrench but it appears that it utilizes a drill chuck ? Can you elaborate what this is?
It is a drill chuck tap handle, very handy tool to ensure that the tap is started straight in the hole even if it is only used for starting it. I got the idea from ChrisB257 - he made one on his channel and I liked the idea. I made a video of making the handle out of some bits I had around if you're interested in seeing how it came about.
Excellent video!! I hope to be able to copy your project, if you don't mind!
Thanks! By all means make one, I first got the idea from Mark at Winky's Workshop, and adjusted to use what I had on hand. Some day a second improved version may happen but I need time and a functional shop for that, lol!
Very good strong accurate construction. Follow up now with a nice belt motor drive?
Thanks Graham, it is just a simple tool, not a lot planned for upgrading this one. I would love a tool post grinder at some point, and if one gets built there may be a slower speed spindle with a drill chuck on it, which would be close to what you are suggesting. Biggest things I'm short of lately are time and energy, lol.
What brand of mill is that you are using?
Hi Tom, it's a Craftex, which is the house brand of Busy Bee Tools here in Canada. Pretty standard round column mill, they claim these were made in Taiwan as opposed to Mainland. Haven't used too many other brands to compare.
Well done and great job :-)
Just one aspect. If the purpose of the tool is to drill always on center relatively to the chuck/collet, then it would have been a good idea to take a centerdrill into a collet and transfer this to the tool holder?
Thank Michael, sadly I don't have any collets for the lathe at the moment. At some point I hope to but this was about the best I could do for the time being. As it is, at some point I may revisit this project and modify it, but that's only if I get the time.
If you lack a dovetail cutter (or have a smaller mill) you can make the block, but instead of cutting the dovetail, just mill a tenon to clamp into a standard AXA or BXA 201 tool holder slot.
That's exactly what my buddy Eldon did for his machine and his works great. Good point for those without mills or lathe milling attachments.
merci super travail
Merci, Francois!
Here's a trick for making bushings coaxial: make them undersized (as you inadvertently did), press them in, and then put the shank of your +0.001" reamer through both bushings and PULL the reamer through the first bushing. Then reverse the reamer through both bushings and pull the reamer through the second bushing. The shank keeps the reamer aligned with the bushing that isn't being cut.
Most reamers will make a light cut in reverse (AXIAL DIRECTION, NOT ROTATIONAL; as you know, never rotate a reamer in reverse).
I hadn't thought of that but it makes total sense. At some point there may be a 2.0 version of this tool with a thrust bearing and ball bearing shaft but this was needed right away for a job so it's pretty simple. I like your idea for maintaining concentricity though!
When you have a milling machine, put a hole in the location needed and indicate that hole in the 4 jaw. Just FYI
That would have made total sense, I just didn't think of it at the time. I do appreciate getting tips like this as I don't claim to know it all for machining, that's for sure. I enjoy learning from others' suggestions and experience!
Instead of this, you could install three turning systems and do the opposite, that is, you can do the drilling with the turning machine itself, and the rotation of the part will be on the decorative side.
I hear you, there are a number of ways of accomplishing a particular feature on a workpiece, this was just what I could come up with with considering what was on hand. If I were to remake it the v2.0 would have ball bearings instead of bushings, but I've only needed this a few times. When it's needed though it's priceless! Thankful to Mark from Winky's Workshop for the idea.
You could have made your dovetail in the block and finished that part and completed it with the height screw. Then if you had mounted back in the lathe tool post and used a non removable spacer under the adjusting spacer to get the desired centre height and lock that permanently. No more guessing for centre height. If you align the outside of the guide block with the axis of the lathe it will drill parallel to both surfaces. Then put the drill in the lathe chuck and work backwards. Drill out the block using the lathe as a milling machine. To get a nice bore, get a piece of round stock and put in a cross drilled hole with a locking screw and mount in your chuck and centre the other end. So if the block you want to bore is 100mm long, a bar around 250mm long. Simply place the bar thru the drilled hole and you have yourself a horizontal borer. The size will be the same all the way thru. The hole will be generated on centre height and parallel to the lathe centre line assuming the tailstock is true as well. Also. make yourself up a stop bar and a corresponding jacking bar for the other jaw and that you can sit a jaw against when using the drilling attachment. Gives you repeatability
Hi Don, I actually totally agree with you - this was the first time I have made one of these things and to be honest if I make a second one there would be a number of changes to both design and the machining process. A permanent adjustment for center and line-boring it would be two of the major differences. I admit to still being a hobbyist and learn new tricks with every project.
@@EverettsWorkshop Hi. I was just trying to let you know that the lathe is very flexiable and if you have the imagination can do all sorts of things. I have been in the machining game for 45 years. I have a larger lather at 7.5 hp. I made up a tip tool cutter for fish mouthing 2 1/2" med wall pipe to fit nicely against 4" med pipe. They are cut at 45 deg. I had hundreds to do. I made up a special clamp to hold the stub of pipe in my tool post, had the cutter spinniong on a bar that was held between the centre and the tail stock. In 16min 20 sec I can machine out 10 parts. So one pass, a machined fishmouth that fits beautifully against its mate. Made positioning and welding much much easier. I do enjoy watching all the things folks make for their machines.
just curious why you didn't single point thread it so the thread would be as straight as possible
Hi Lee, in all honesty I probably should have, but took the easy route. Runout in the chuck end wasn't too bad, but if I were to build one again it would be single pointed. Thanks for coming by and joining in!
Did you explain how to index the second hole location?
No, I didn't to be honest - the oil feed holes are simply on center with the main bore and 1/2" in from the end. The height adjuster threaded hole is in the middle lengthways and .725 from the edge of the block with the dovetail cut out of it. I probably edited that part out to save time. Hopefully the rest of the video was useful though!
Bit late now, but for later projects you can bore a hole to suit your needs.
Sorry if I missed any other replies with the same thought.
Just trying to help.
No worries, you are absolutely right - this was put together with what I had for a job I had on the go. At some point I'm considering making another one but heavier and with bearings instead of bushings. Lots of projects to catch up on first as I'm finding myself short on time lately. Thanks for joining in, I'm always up for ideas and constructive criticism as I love learning from others!
What do you search to find these "bins" of machine parts?
Every now and then on eBay in the metalworking tools section there will be something like 'miscellaneous lot mixed machinist tools' or the like. If it's stuff I could use, I bid. Most eBay stuff I bid on blows up out of my price range but on the off occasion one slips through. Thanks for coming by!
@@EverettsWorkshop cheers
What kind of lathe you got there Everett? It’s nice!!!
Thank you, but it is one of the very common 12x36 import lathes. This is from a Canadian reseller called King Canada, model 1236ML. I'm thankful to have it, as I've wanted my own lathe for years before getting it.
Hi Everett,
I'm very new to machining and just took it up a couple years ago as a hobby in my retirement. My machinery is a cheap (emphasis on cheap) combination lathe/mill that my brother-in-law gave me. It isn't a great machine, but it's something to learn on.
This is my first visit to your channel and I like what you do and how the content is presented; no highbrow commentary, and you admit your mistakes on camera. Good job on the build.
Can I ask why you didn't just use a boring bar tool holder? If its because of the challenge of making the tool I certainly understand that as I make things just to make them and get experience/practice...I need a bunch of that.
Keep up the good work!
Regards,
Kit
Thanks Kit, I'm glad you like what's happening here. There is nothing wrong with combo machines as long as they work properly, Michael Hale has one and he does good work with it.
As for making the dovetail block vs buying one, it I made it primarily because of being cheap. Little $20, $30, $40 tools add up after a while, and there was metal available to use for it. But yes, a boring bar holder would work fine.
Hey, what about the accuracy, is it going to be very accurate, because im thinking about making one, Thanks
I will admit that it has a few thousandths of an inch (or hundredths of a mm) runout but I think it would have been better if the threads were single cut instead of using a threading die. If I make another that will be how it's done. I got the idea from Winky at the channel Winky's Workshop, he made a very nice one.
@@EverettsWorkshop Thank you, i will try to make one
thanks for the video.
min 18:50 what is that tool
Thanks for wanting to watch! That tool is an adjustable parallel, they come in sets of 6 or so different sizes. These are import ones but still very handy.
I dont get it, why not scribe it in the lathe, and use a drill press for the holes ?
There are a number of ways a person could make this tool, this is just how I went about it using what equipment I had. I do have a small drill press but it's easier to place a precise hole using the milling machine. Thanks for coming by!