How To Fix Noisy Internal Cable Rattle
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- This video is about How To Fix Noisy Internal Cable Rattle. My brake hose started making noise when riding rough sections, bumps, Etc. The cable/hose entry points on Pivot bicycle frames make it pretty easy to add damping foam over the noisy internally cables or hoses that rattle inside the frame.
This same method can be used on any modern Pivot bicycle, as well as many other internally routed bicycle applications.
A big roll of Jagwire internal cable damping foam tubing: amzn.to/39ZtSoK - Jak na to + styl
Thanks for sharing this video! I am about to start changing my frame for a Carbon one w/ Internal Routing and, I have bought these dampers. You are quite right: better doing on the built from Scratch !!! Much easier. See ya, blue skies 🤙🏻🍀
I just started noticing a rattle in my Pinarello, this video was exactly what I needed to see in order to know what I'd need to do in order to fix it. Thanks!
You're very welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback, I really appreciate it!
Had same issue on my new Pivot Vault. Pulled slack out of cable and tightened down the screw on the little door that that cable does into, not much, just to make it a little more snug. Seems to have helped the issue. Don't know if it will be a permanent fix. Don't really want to unbook the brake line.
Stupid design internal cables my new trek bike rattles so bad I want to get rid of it.
Bikes can be a real pain in the arse at times😅🤢🤡
I feel the same way too
Definitely agree, at least should be done properly.
I got a 2022 Pivot Switchblade and I have the same ports for my cables. My issue though is that it is no rattle at all, it's just more of a *_knipp_* *_knepp_* noise from that area and the cables are pretty tight. It's only when I turn the bars.
As I don't know if your solution will fix my issue, I thought that it might be a lot better to just do one slice down the length of that foam hose, and just hook it on the cable. For good measure you can simply use some tape down the cut if needed. I'd like to have an easily reversable solution for when in doubt, as well as not having to undo any cables.
Thanks for posting! you mentioned to do this from the beginning of a bike build, so happens, my first build is a 2016 Pivot Vault, not digital, but internal shifting cables, wondering if you have video or helps on routing, and cable/brake set up?
I've never seen the first generation Vault, but I've worked on quite a few MTB Pivots from 2016. I don't have any video, but the best tip I can give is to run any shift or brake housings through the bare frame before you install the headset/fork and BB/crank. You can always cut down the housings to fine tune the length as you're doing the final connections and adjustments, but it's way easier to guide the housings through if you have access to an open BB and head tube.
My plan is to keep the brake cable long and it will push itself up against the downtube wall. I tried the hose alone and no good on my 21 emonda
what i use are nerf bullets, cheap and still do the job
How could you change the housing easily every year with the foam ? Seems a pain .
Also do I need to do for the othe brake cable ? Is there enough space in the frame for 2 foam ?
Thank you for showing us this fix.
BUT honestly, I really do not want internal cable! The problem is, new bikes that I am looking at have them. They are a real hassle to work on and add time when ai want to replace them. Of course, I am 68 yrs old and not flying through the air and/crashing in the trees. Those days are, thankfully, gone. Anyway, am I the only guy who hates internal cables?
P.S. ProRoad Bikes - internal cables are very understandable, but this video is not targeting Pros.
Internal cables are what most consumers want these days. There's plenty of tricks to make the process just about as quick as replacing regular cables.
Thanks for your feedback!
Cant be arsed doing all this shit, hopefully cable ties will sort it out🤹♂️😅👊
I just shoved a yellow home depot sponge though the head tube. Deep enough I can still take it out with some pliers.
i have cable actuated HyRds with the housing in the down tube making a deal breaking type of racket. was thinking maybe cutting a long section of pool noodle, then slide it down into the downtube - first removing stem/bars and pulling fork to open up frame internals then just slide the foam length wise into the down tube. would be easy to fetch out hopefully. i'd be afraid if too thick it will prevent proper cable movement and not thick enough, could make it's own racket.
how long was that process? For removing all the stuff and putting it back?
@@DrMarvinLara 15minutes tops, but I had to, the noise was awful. everyone i passed heard it.
just loosen stem bolts, then top cap bolt, and pull them off, along with any spacers and set them aside before pulling out the fork. gently set fork on something within reach of the cables (i use a drum throne height stool), then wriggle the cables and listen to where the rattle is located. cut the pool noodle to length, slide it into down tube carefully/slowly until reaching the rattle. give it a quick shake, no rattle means success.
put everything back, use the proper newt meter specs for top cap bolt and stem bolts. Voila! not a peep.
hey, do you have a tip for me how to finally get the inside cables on my Enduro Bike quietly? I have tried a lot to tighten the cables to the maximum and attach a tie to the opening, with tape I also tried to tighten the cables, even the Jagwire housing damper I tried to lay in my frame, but the openings on my bike are too small to get these thick foam covers in.
You could try some cable wrapping. You can find it on amazon.
Like this www.amazon.co.uk/Alex-Tech-10ft-Protector-Sleeving/dp/B07FW5H57B/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=8a5UirUzIORrbSIdxTVJog&hsa_cr_id=6866443250602&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0&th=1
@@maxkaufel4715 hey i already put this Alex tech on my cables and its quiet, no rattling anymore nothing
@@mikar8637 nice to hear. I haven’t used it myself but im going to do it in a couple of days. Did you get it into the frame easily? Bc my frame has pretty small holes too
@@maxkaufel4715 It wasn't easy, it is important that you choose the 3mm variant. In addition, it is better to order 2 times individually 3 meters because after shortening the ends are quite frayed. It took me about 30 minutes to 1 hour per cable. But believe me the time is worth it. Only stuffing it in was not that easy.
Pain in the arse bikes sometimes