Great video! I was able to access the knock sensor from below using a 1/2” drive 27mm socket with universal joint to get the angle. The sensor broke loose no problem. I think it took more time to remove the plastic undercarriage shield go to the store to get the parts than it did to complete the repair. I also was able to access without jacking the car up. Much appreciated!!!
Glad I was able to assist. Honestly this is one of the best comment reviews I have received!!! This right here is why I make videos like these. Thank you for your comments they really help!
I changed it from the bottom, tight fit. Removed electrical connector with a regular pair on needle nose pliers. I used a 1/2 flex head ratchet with a 27mm deep well impact socket, no extension. Installed new one by hand to thread in, then tightened with same socket.
Congratulations 👏 Great Content.. We appreciate you man as a brother.... Best video on replacing a knock sensor, coil pack, and spark plugs... . Infinite Spirit 💫
Just did this job on my own 2006 Element @ 158K miles with a P0325 code. It took about an hour. The hardest part was removing the cable and the old sensor. I found that it was much easier to access and remove the knock sensor from underneath the car with my legs going in first. You'll have to remove the plastic undercarriage shield, but it only takes a few minutes and is easy enough to put back on. To reinstall the sensor, I recommend seating the sensor from underneath the car and then attach enough extensions so that you can finish tightening the sensor from the TOP of the car. Overall, pretty easy job but the access to the part makes it tricky. If you can loosen and tighten a screw then you can do this! Oh, be sure to tighten the new knock sensor to the correct torque (23 lb/ft or 31.18N/m). I'm not sure if you need to disconnect your battery, but I did. When I finished the job, my P0325 code was clear and the car was running a bit smoother. Thanks for the helpful video! Even though I didn't follow it 100%, it still helped me figure out the job.
The code on the top of the connector is a manufacturer lot #. That code may differ unless it came off the manufacturing line right at the same time. The parts # should be on the side of part.
Thanks man, knock sensor done. I have poor fuel mileage, random days of sluggish performance, and odd ignition timing sometimes (28* at idle) hoping this helps. Did valves, pcv, and also blocked off the high idle solenoid for testing.
Glad to hear that you got all the work done and I was able to help with some tips and tricks. That’s why I make Videos to try and help people. Let us know what your mileage is after a tank or two
Unfortunately,that was not the mileage issue. I am currently 1000 miles from home and averaged about 19-20mpg. I'll do a compression check when I get home, check the timing chain/vtec sprocket. After that it would be O2 sensor, because it ultimately controls mixture, exhaust restriction, or mechanical drag in the rear differential.
Great video you made up my mind for me. I'm going from the bottom. My 07 element has a air box under the manifold I can't see the knock sensor. Thank you.
@@YohanVonRosen Please don't use ramps, They are a death trap. I have witnessed them sliding out from out of the car. Not a good outcome for person underneath. Jack and stands are the only way. (30 year mechanic)
The right way? Dude, just take off the damn intake. It's 5 bolts/nuts, and then one vacuum hose, and one bolt for the throttle linkage bracket. You can reuse the metal intake gasket a few times. It's so much easier this way.
Have you had any issues with the sensor code coming back? I've heard a lot of people saying the cheaper knock sensors will end up throwing engine codes after only a couple weeks. I got I believe a Dorman brand from the local auto zone I'm about to install myself. Hoping it remedies it.
Big connection problems with the connector not being properly seated, or simply worn out from over the years. Save yourself a headache and buy from Honda.
Hey drew. Thanks for checking out the video! It helps a ton and I love helping the community ! I would normally go oem as much as I can however. This was a gamble part and so far it has paid off.
Yohan, great video! I had the check engine on indicating the knock nut sensor on code for some time reflecting on low gas performance on my Honda Element 2010. After much time I took it to Honda Dealer with the promised they would eliminate the code and check engine light. After working all day in the car they couldn’t see continuation from the plug to the computer. The jumped with another cable . I bought the nock nut from auto one for $79. It was replaced but the light continues to show up. They said it could that the knock sensor needs to be an original from Honda which they asked over $200 and if this does not take away the light it could be the computer. I finally had to paid $450 for the labor and the light still there. I found and knock nut for $100 on Amazon thinking to replace the one from autozone to see if the light goes off. Do you think that would the best advise? For $79 autozone charged for the part seems is not an OEP part from Honda right?
Well I am happy to report that it is working fine and my mpg has increased up to the 19.5-21mpg range depending on if I am loaded up with tools or if I am driving the speed limit. This is Average over the last seven Fill ups
Great video! I was able to access the knock sensor from below using a 1/2” drive 27mm socket with universal joint to get the angle. The sensor broke loose no problem. I think it took more time to remove the plastic undercarriage shield go to the store to get the parts than it did to complete the repair. I also was able to access without jacking the car up. Much appreciated!!!
Glad I was able to assist. Honestly this is one of the best comment reviews I have received!!! This right here is why I make videos like these. Thank you for your comments they really help!
I changed it from the bottom, tight fit. Removed electrical connector with a regular pair on needle nose pliers. I used a 1/2 flex head ratchet with a 27mm deep well impact socket, no extension. Installed new one by hand to thread in, then tightened with same socket.
Congratulations 👏
Great Content..
We appreciate you man as a brother....
Best video on replacing a knock sensor, coil pack, and spark plugs...
. Infinite Spirit 💫
Thanks for checking out the video. Glad it was informative for ya.
Very helpful video. Thank. you for sharing your experience. Saved me a lot of time and money replacing the Knock sensor.
FINALLY someone posts the view from underneath. I was in NO WAY going to wrestle with the top. I have a hydrojack for a reason.
Glad I could help!
Just did this job on my own 2006 Element @ 158K miles with a P0325 code. It took about an hour. The hardest part was removing the cable and the old sensor. I found that it was much easier to access and remove the knock sensor from underneath the car with my legs going in first. You'll have to remove the plastic undercarriage shield, but it only takes a few minutes and is easy enough to put back on. To reinstall the sensor, I recommend seating the sensor from underneath the car and then attach enough extensions so that you can finish tightening the sensor from the TOP of the car. Overall, pretty easy job but the access to the part makes it tricky. If you can loosen and tighten a screw then you can do this! Oh, be sure to tighten the new knock sensor to the correct torque (23 lb/ft or 31.18N/m). I'm not sure if you need to disconnect your battery, but I did. When I finished the job, my P0325 code was clear and the car was running a bit smoother.
Thanks for the helpful video! Even though I didn't follow it 100%, it still helped me figure out the job.
Thanks for checking out the video. Glad that I can help some people out and save them some time and effort !!
Well done. Great video.
Thanks Clint. I like your content as well !!
Love the kids input
AWD 5-speed FTW! Just hit 250K with mine.
The code on the top of the connector is a manufacturer lot #. That code may differ unless it came off the manufacturing line right at the same time. The parts # should be on the side of part.
Thanks man, knock sensor done. I have poor fuel mileage, random days of sluggish performance, and odd ignition timing sometimes (28* at idle) hoping this helps. Did valves, pcv, and also blocked off the high idle solenoid for testing.
Glad to hear that you got all the work done and I was able to help with some tips and tricks. That’s why I make
Videos to try and help people. Let us know what your mileage is after a tank or two
Unfortunately,that was not the mileage issue. I am currently 1000 miles from home and averaged about 19-20mpg. I'll do a compression check when I get home, check the timing chain/vtec sprocket. After that it would be O2 sensor, because it ultimately controls mixture, exhaust restriction, or mechanical drag in the rear differential.
Element is for me
How was your element before what where the symptoms by chance any vibration? Did it get worse when warm? Thanks for your help.
Boom!
I changed mine the easy way. The mechanic did it. However, it still isn’t fixed and the check engine light came back on as I was leaving the shop. 😡
Great video you made up my mind for me. I'm going from the bottom. My 07 element has a air box under the manifold I can't see the knock sensor. Thank you.
So much easier from the bottom. Use ramps and you don even have to hack up the car
@@YohanVonRosen Please don't use ramps, They are a death trap. I have witnessed them sliding out from out of the car. Not a good outcome for person underneath. Jack and stands are the only way. (30 year mechanic)
I generally try and use jack stands. I even throw the jack back on for an additional bit of security. Ramps are for the easy stuff
The right way? Dude, just take off the damn intake. It's 5 bolts/nuts, and then one vacuum hose, and one bolt for the throttle linkage bracket. You can reuse the metal intake gasket a few times. It's so much easier this way.
Can you give the music playlist for this vid? Ty
I get all of my music from the CZcams studio. It is all free to use with out any copyright strikes.
Have you had any issues with the sensor code coming back? I've heard a lot of people saying the cheaper knock sensors will end up throwing engine codes after only a couple weeks. I got I believe a Dorman brand from the local auto zone I'm about to install myself. Hoping it remedies it.
Zero issues. It very well could be a legit oem part
Big connection problems with the connector not being properly seated, or simply worn out from over the years. Save yourself a headache and buy from Honda.
Hey drew. Thanks for checking out the video! It helps a ton and I love helping the community !
I would normally go oem as much as I can however. This was a gamble part and so far it has paid off.
Just to update on mine, I've had no issues with the Dorman brand knock sensor after 3 months. CEL never came back on and it's running great.
Yohan, great video! I had the check engine on indicating the knock nut sensor on code for some time reflecting on low gas performance on my Honda Element 2010. After much time I took it to Honda Dealer with the promised they would eliminate the code and check engine light. After working all day in the car they couldn’t see continuation from the plug to the computer. The jumped with another cable . I bought the nock nut from auto one for $79. It was replaced but the light continues to show up. They said it could that the knock sensor needs to be an original from Honda which they asked over $200 and if this does not take away the light it could be the computer. I finally had to paid $450 for the labor and the light still there. I found and knock nut for $100 on Amazon thinking to replace the one from autozone to see if the light goes off. Do you think that would the best advise? For $79 autozone charged for the part seems is not an OEP part from Honda right?
Any suggestions
What code is your engine throwing at you?
If you have that it would be helpful. Also may be time to do a compression test.
@@YohanVonRosen
P0325 (00) control unit:OE
Status: Pending, Confirmed
OBDII : Knock sensor (KS) 1, bank 1- circuit malfunction
---
P2A00
Control unit: OE
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1- circuit range/performance
Is it ok to finish tightening the knock sensor with my hand because I could fit my socket wrench down there?
15-18lbs of torque should do it. Likely a 1/4 turn past hand tight
So you just screwed that on there without any loctite or plumber's taper nothing on the threads?
Yes sir. Not asking for it in my instructions
Part number ?
I bought a cheapy off of eBay but here is the legit one from honda
amzn.to/3KzidAr
That’s a fake knock sensor. eBay if full of fake oem parts.
Well I am happy to report that it is working fine and my mpg has increased up to the 19.5-21mpg range depending on if I am loaded up with tools or if I am driving the speed limit. This is Average over the last seven Fill ups