How People BREAK 3D Printers (and how to stop it)
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2024
- Public access to 3D Printing technology is incredibly powerful. Unfortunately, it's also often DESTRUCTIVE to the 3D Printers involved. In this video I share my tips on keeping these community tools running with insight from the 3D Printing community on twitter.
Twitter thread - / 1301413554566750209
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My printer knows when i am not watching, it jams then. So i installed an ip cam. Now he thinks i am always watching, no problem ever since ;-)
Power of quantem
Power of quantem
Very smart
What I did was get one of those Anti-Magpie helmet attachments. Two big eyes staring at the 3D printer really close up. Very intimidating, I can tell you, for a bratty printer.
I've been thinking of setting up a camera and just continuously live streaming my Catan prints to CZcams. Good to know it will also help avoid printer jams, LOL.
my problem has not been with the student, they're too scared to break the printer
it's the teacher, they act like they know better
not only that, but the teachers buy THE MOST EXPENSIVE printers imaginable. Our school just replaced our 2 (not quite functioning makerbots) with a Dremel 3d printer that costs like $3k, and i doubt it will ever be used more than like 10 days a year
@@jearlblah5169 If i remember the dremel printer is hot garbage, no heated bed, single extrusion, proprietary software...
I got lucky and in our school they were getting rid of the craftbot 2s in our schools managed to get 2 of them from the teacher because she was chill. The other ones were sadly donated.
@@TMHedgehog Yeah it's basically the DaVinci Mini all over again, only without the quite attractive buy-in pricetag, and without having been around long enough for the algorithm to have gotten cracked. Yet. AFAIK.
At least the DaVinci Mini had that pricetag going for it, which was pretty impressive when keeping in mind it it came out like 4 if not 5 years ago, with auto leveling. At _that_ time, it was probably sold at cost. The quality of their filaments wasn't bad though, kept the target audience (plug-n-play point-and-shoot, 3D curious newbies) tied into a filament range that meant they didn't need to troubleshoot filament and printer settings for those reasons unless they tried switching to PETG. And if you had an official distributor in your region, the price wasn't downright awful.
That kind of inkjet-printer-and-cartridge business model is not my cup of tea. That said, now that you can program your own tags with a free app on your phone, using paper sticker NTAG213 tags for 10-15 cents a pop - I went and grabbed a used Mini w+ for $60, including probably $70 worth of filament and a roll of blank tags.
@@lochitha5921 did the same with a broken 10 year old makerbot 2x, $50 in offbrand parts and i was ready to go lmao
I’ve been printing for over 2 years and I still sit and watch my prints for like 2 hours. No matter how long you’ve been printing it never gets old.
Not alone my friend, not alone
kind of hypnotic in a way...
Yeah I sit in my room watching yt after every video I go and watch it for like 5 minutes to make sure everything’s good
It's the "watching the microwave" equivalent for makers
Feels like star trek every time I pull a part off the build plate.
I can almost imagine someone saying "it didn't heat up past 100 degrees, so I used a blow torch to get it to 220"
You say that like it's a bad thing lol
Not guilty, m'lud.
Blow torch is the best way to clear a clogged nozzle
@@reforgedcriterion1471 It's the best way to remove the brass nozzle entirely if you don't know how to use a blow torch properly. Just melt it straight off of the heating block, why not.
@@OtakuUnitedStudio wat...
Because the heating block is aluminum, the nozzle is brass. Go look it up and see which one will melt first.
Confucius say any idiot can make job harder than need be.
(on the mini) while needing to do a manual filament unload, preheating for PLA wasn't heating it up to 215°C, only 170 (one may be able to do a HARD coldpull at that temperature, but I didn't wana risk it). Was confused for a sec, before I found a workarround by sticking a leftover piece of filament in the filamentsensor, and cranking up the heat manually to 215 in the settings.
10 minutes into this, you got me worried about my print downstairs... First layers had failed. Guess I'll always check them now. Thanks Angus!
4:01 "Walking away from a print..." Hoo boy, that brings back memories. One of my first prints was going to take around 10 hours, and I had to work that day. I started the print and went to work, asking my mother to check on it in half an hour. That half an hour turned into three. I come home to a giant cooled glob of plastic covering both nozzles and heating blocks. Needless to say, I learned my lesson, and thankfully the plastic was cleaned off with no damage to the printer.
I left a 6 hour print and came back at about 4 hours to find a HUGE blob of plastic on the nozzle and a broken X axis belt. Let's just say that has not happened since.
Wait, so do I need to stay all time with the printer? How do you do 24 hour prints then?
@@tomymas38 I would only attempt a longer, unsupervised print with a printer I have complete trust in. After my mistake, I spent a lot of time figuring out print settings and bed adhesives, and I pulled off a very high quality, scaled up Gayer-Anderdon cat print that took around 30 hours. It's all about optimizing your chances of getting a good print.
Step 1: Have users go through orientation and training
Step 2: Don't let your users try anything kooky or unique.
Step 3: Ban your first user that keeps breaking hot-ends
Congrats, you're now the grumpy shop teacher.
nice
Yeah I'm not impressed with the "don't allow tinkering; ban this, ban that" recommendations for kids in schools. Schools are authoritarian enough already, and defeats the purpose of having them there so that kids can learn.
@@Dwonis I agree. It would be far better to teach them what not to do when using 3D printers and how to fix mistakes, as well as teaching them about how to make the different settings for different materials, printers, firmware, etc. It would probably become an entirely new subject on its own, but I don't see what's wrong with that. They can throw in a couple of the other CNC machines as well then and prepare them for either a maker job at factories or small businesses. Or as engineers as engineering schools often have multiple CNC machines that the students use to fabricate their solutions (that's at least the case here in Denmark). The more they know in advance, then more the universities and colleges can cram in of actual engineering knowledge, rather than just "how to operate our machines".
I like the "don't make me make rules" rule and have been required to read the instructions of all electronic devices I was allowed to use and still got supervise in the beginning and for every further thing (I didn't understand that when I was building IKEA furniture at age 12, nor for "just" drilling some wood but appreciate it now).
@@Dwonis It's not recklessly banning things left and right though, it's because most people just cannot operate a 3D printer. This is often true at Maker Spaces but is practically a rule for schools! Considering how wildly inexperienced I knew I was a few months in to owning my first 3D printer, someone who doesn't own a 3D printer or who isn't experienced in their use and maintenance should NOT be allowed to use them without detailed instruction and focused observation.
However, I'd totally support a maker space that employs a couple of attendants to help people operate machines and make whatever they need to make. Especially if people want to bring in their own filament or something, anything unique like that can be accomplished with a good attendant.
"I've seen 3d printers left in the woodshop"
::twitching and voice trembles "
"WHY?"
could be worse. could have been metal shop.
LOL my kid’s wood working teacher keeps it in his wood shop. But he has an office area to keep it shielded from shop debris and curious students.
Someone wanted to experiment with their own wood filament :P
Its in that shop possibly because that is the only space allocated for CDT type activities. Seriously I felt Angus was being really unfair as many schools don't have huge amounts of space. It came across a arrogant and ignorant of the challenges faced by schools. Yes in an ideal world the printer should be in a cleaner room, but it isnt always possible because of space and room allocation.
Another was "selling" filament rather than students bringing in thier own. I know the school I used to work at had issues when it came to reselling. I dont remeber the specifics but it was some legal reason. So again good idea in an ideal world but not something that is always practical in some environments.
My UNI has one in the woodwork shop but it's in a custom perspex box
Angus, you've got to admit that even the most knowledgeable person can do everything perfectly and a print can just go wrong, causing damage to the printer. You've said that you've gotten the "ball of death" on this channel. Also, you said you've seen people just pulling prints off a bed. Could that be like Joel and a certain $38,000 printer?
One issue with petg is it is know for being able to rip glass off beds very easily. Even with adhesive it can still happen which is why I avoid printing with it and stick with other materials. Even though the rest of it's properties of petg are good, I don't like the risk of a chunk of glass being removed every time I print something.
True that, experienced users can suffer from complacency or distractions. Recently I messed up my Up mini 2 hot end running an old roll of PLA that just didn't stick. I didn't keep an eye on it because it's such an unusual occurrence and suffered the consequences.
@@shanewood5054
I still dont understand how he thought printing with petg on glass was ok under any circunstance.....at least use blue painter tape or some kind of buildtack or even a sheet of PEI held with double sided tape. He should know better!
My machines all have aluminium beds but i would never even get petg close to glass seeing the damage it can cause.
@@shanewood5054 This is one reason why I have a Prusa MK3s and I print with PETG a lot. Windex works well.
He did know better; hence the 😳 on his face at the time. I print with PETG on glass - BUT - there is ALWAYS something between the glass and the plastic; usually blue tape, but I’ve picked up a sheet of PEI and polycarbonate to experiment with. I’ve also heard of polyisocyanurate foam being used; one of these days I’ll have to give that a go as well...
Man, watching this makes me realize just how happy I am that I have my own personal printer that I don't have to share with anyone. Those are some fairly reasonable restrictions when you account for people screwing up, but man, it would be really difficult for me to get anything done without all the creative slicer tweaks and cheeky mid-print filament swaps I like to do. Probably wouldn't be allowed to do my pen plotting tomfoolery, either. And that's on top of the fact that here in the US, some of the things that I like to print are only legal if you yourself own the hardware to do it.
Thanks for the video, Angus. I really enjoyed it! ^_^
And thats why people offer 3d printing services, because most costumers have no fucking clue and even if you gave them a printer they wouldnt be able to make it work after 6 months. The price you pay is the price of the experience of the operator.
The last part of your comment intrigues me. What could only be legal if you can build it yourself?
@@Someone-ci8wf Anything that fits under the Federal definition of the word 'Firearm'.
@@Someone-ci8wf Firearms. It's legal to make them yourself (except in a few specific states where it's not), but it's not legal to sell them or give them to other people without an FFL and properly serializing them.
There was a case a while ago where a guy rented out his CNC mill so people could use it to make aluminum AR lowers (the part that legally counts as the "firearm", everything else is unregulated) in 80% receiver finishing parties. They ruled that renting out machines for the purpose of building firearms was legally the same as selling them outright, and the guy went to jail.
Consequently, the same law would apply to 3D printing - it's legal to make them for yourself (unless you live in a state where it's not), but it's not legal to let someone else use your 3D printer to make them.
@@Someone-ci8wf
you cant buy patented stuff from people without the proper license, thats whats illegal, but its not illegal to make it yourself.
you cant sell anything patented, but you are allowed to take the patent and make one for yourself.
or he could be talking about guns but its still illegal to make them without registering them too. i think specifically the frame which is the one that has the serial number.
The biggest problem with "common sense" is its not that common.
Theres common sense, and theres a few people that have more common sense than the others.
I lost my common sense down the old slide in Carnfunnock Country Park
Too many people think common sense is to common, so they refuse to use it.
Like pedestrian crossings, it is so pedestrian, so they refuse to use them....
If it was common it wouldn't have a name.
I love the FB groups. "I just got my first 3d printer. Why isn't it printing right?
Probably wrong settings
Yeah about that.... ☺️
I haven't posted, but I'm that guy. Though I've read the manuals, watched about 50 videos, and take my time, but I'm new to the hobby so I make mistakes and have struggles
@@wckdtrb That's not really a description of "that guy" though. "That guy", is the one asking/demanding support from people on the interwebs when _"I tried nothing and I'm all out of ideas, I think something is wrong so you hold my hand while you fix it for me"._
If you already _really_ tried searching, tried experimenting and troubleshooting - asking around is 100% a-ok. That's what common interests communities are about :)
@@wckdtrb yeah, and thats exactly how we all started, and some day, you will be able to make awesome prints no matter what printer you're using
A 3D printer in a wood workshop makes perfect sense.
The easiest way to get wood filament is to leave the printer printing in a pile of saw dust 🤣🤣🤣
Why do I feel guilty even though I've never even touched a 3D printer?
Maybe you are not ready for a relationship; that's okay. 😏
Got $95, if yes than now you can touch one
Haha I feel the same except the only mistake I made was ripping the print off of my personal printer. And in the end it wasn't even my fault, it was an old printer and the bed adhesion never let ANYTHING go. Like I'd let it cool and stuff and even then I had to really jam the prints off with a putty knife and it left a bunch of plastic residue but I honestly don't know how else I would've done it cuz the build plate wasn't removable or anything.
@@imreallyfeelingit8867 I heated the bed on my Ender 3 to 60 degrees when we finally got a good print and got it off after 30 seconds. Edit: after 15 minutes trying to scrape it off.
"Can you use this material I had donated?"
This was the first thing I put a stop to in the university's fabrication shop. Students bring in blocks of metal to be machined not knowing what they are (which, in my book, is just an automatic fail if it's an engineering project). But, this carried over into 3D printing because our shop is the only room that has open source machines. Now, that's not to say I haven't done prints on experimental filaments. But, I literally sat there and observed it printing, and usually stopped and restarted many times to tune the settings.
‘There are known knowns. There are things we know that we know. There are known unknowns. That is to say, there are things that we now know we don't know. But there are also unknown unknowns. There are things we do not know we don't know.’
~RUMMY
😆🤣😂
have them take an exam and pay for said exam to be allowed to use the machines. that should deter anyone "playing" because its free. Not saying charge them the usual market price but these machines are not toys and are not cheap for some kid to come and play with them. Otherwise go pay a shop to do it for you.
I work in a machine shop as an aerospace CAD engineer. In my 2nd year at the job two people (a dad and his kid) come in with a 6" diameter x 8" long cylindrical tube of metal claiming it's titanium and asking if we'd buy it. My response was, we only use titanium for Aerospace parts, all Aerospace parts require material certifications and certifications of origin, we can't buy this because we only have your word it's titanium.
After they left my brain caught up and was like "hold up, why do these people have a random cylinder of titanium to sell? Where did they get it? Was it stolen?" My best guess is it was stolen so they could sell it at a scrap yard but then realized the local scrap yards don't take titanium so they thought they'd try their luck at the local aerospace manufacturing plant.
@@anastasiacline6159 not only stolen, but invariably smashed off something that was working, causing hundreds/thousands/more worth of damage
They didn't happen to have strong "irish" accents did they?
Thanks Angus! I too thought of Joel ripping the glass of the $38k printer... Too funny.
I used a school 3D printer, and broke it (of course). So I tried to fix it, and failed, and then spent hours with it, and got it working again. Then I broke it. Repeat. Now I'm pretty good at these things. My school was pretty gracious.
As they should be. I did something similar with computers at home, at school, and when visiting various relatives. I got pretty good at computering, and that wouldn't have been possible if everyone had taken MM's "ban tinkering" advice.
I had a reverse story , i brought a school 3d printer home to print stuff for a fundraiser, they gave it to me broken, i fixed and went on with my life, a month later they tried to say I broke even though it had been working for a month.
Most of the problems we had was people changing filament.. The machines are now set up with 5kg spools, only the supervisor changes them.And if they don't like the colour, There is a dedicated machine for experimental stuff like that, that also has the best fume extraction and other details.. But it's only one machine, so their choice is 'black or wait'. :)
And yes, we do most of the rest of those things already.. The biggest change was moving to an i3 Mk3 (We have 5) with it's also bed level and removable sheet.
I just got my Ender 3v2 exactly 2 weeks ago, and pretty much all my prints have come out as planned. What I did first was research.. plenty of it. I watched Your videos, along with CHEP, Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors, DrVAX, Technivorous, and countless others BEFORE I even assembled my printer. It saved me tons of issues I'm sure. I made sure to level and calibrate the extruder (e-step. flow rate) and all my prints came out as expected. So my advice to anyone new to this, Take Your Time! Learn as much as you can first. Trust me, it's time well spent.
Me too! But I'm only a week in. Just give the setup and maintenance a little extra care and I've had near perfect results.
I'm getting a 3d printer and I am just trying to soak up all the info I can before I get it and I let my excitement get the best of me. You're a huge help in my learning curve. Thanks!
I'm glad I watched this as I'm new to 3d printing and had no idea you needed to heat up the nozzle before replacing it.
Most of the other stuff isn't a problem for me yet because I'm paranoid and have been keeping a pretty close eye on my prints as they print out.
This video could almost be titled "3D Printing Horror Stories"!
I knew getting into 3D printing would be a daunting experience, so when I jumped in with both feet, I made sure I had a safe landing - 2 years ago I bought a Prusa i3 Mk3 kit, it's been a reliable workhorse ever since I built it :)
First thing I thought when seeing the video title: Angus is roasting Joel??? Savage.
SAVAGE lol love them both
Lol true
Same here.
Same here! haha
LMAO. 3DPN is a mixed bag of expert and amateur level skills. It's great he's so down to earth. I love him and his awesome family.
Is that the untitled goose in the background!?!?
Yes, I need to finish making him :3
@@MakersMuse little desk duck :3
@@MakersMuse careful, he might snatch your parts... or clog your 3d printer.
I was once at a festival where they had 3D Printers and there was someone there who didn't let the bed cool down, took the print sheet off the heating part and started flexing it trying to get the print off and snapped it in half with the print still attached to one side of the broken print sheet !!!
Edit: I'll never forget that day!!! LOL
eeh, i do that too. It usually worksand im impatient.
I’m donating one of my tester 3D printers to my neighbor who has never used one. I fully expect to be doing regular tech support for a while! But hopefully by sharing links to this video and other helpful CZcams topics he’ll get the hang of things more quickly.
That's so nice of you!
Watching this video again, and since it has been a few months since the 1st time, I am amazed by how much I have learned in that time.
Dunning-Kruger effect.
I think this quote from somewhere (I forgot where, and am unsure of the details I do remember)
The more I know, the more I realize how much I don't know.
This is the reason for watching these videos from Makers Muse and several other educators and entertainers in the 3D community.
So thank you for educating us on the do's and don\t of 3D printing.
I've joined a FB channel dedicated to the certain style manufacturer of the unit I purchased. The most common issue I've seen is people put it together, shove all the wires up under it to "hide them" then after a week the print bed quits working and there's 'wiring' issues with some of the stepper motors. The "book" (jokingly referred to user's manual) says nothing about the routing of wires, the proper use of the tie wraps included with the kit, or why making the wiring "pretty" is not always best on a machine that is constantly moving all three axis of it's travel. I prefer an "ugly" industrial look with aftermarket wire loom protecting the wires from chaffing and a longer lasting machine. Great list about public machines. Really giving me second thoughts about allowing anyone to borrow mine. Great channel! Keep up the good work!
Just ordered a 3D printer for myself recently. Glad I watched this. Also glad I chose the printer I did (Ender 3 Pro), because I got the impression it's a popular entry level printer with a good online community. So, hopefully, as I attempt to learn how to use it, there will be a lot of useful resources to help me avoid mistakes.
What is your experience so far with that printer?
Note: If you have a printer sheet on glass that is clamped to your bed, wipe off the bottom of the glass and the top of the plate before clamping down and starting a print... there can be debris under the mirror which will wildly throw off your leveling.
Glad to get a mention in the video..thx. Some very good points and like the mitigation steps. Just do throw in a pro tip on the magnetic build plates that they cannot be used beyond certain temperatures.
I recently got a reality 3d printer and I would like to thank you for advice. I want to make sure that it lasts as long as possible and makes great prints and your videos have been helping me so much. Thank you for everything you do.
Yeah.... personally learned the hard way on glow in the dark filament. Lesson learned. Replaced it with tungsten carbide nozzle.
Explain what happened please
@@jakobey02 glow in the dark filament has abrasive material in it that will wear out the opening of the brass nozzle. I was using a standard 1.75 brass nozzle and after running 1 roll of GitD filament through it, the nozzle was abrasively bored out to 1.9ish. (I used wire gauges to get a close reading). By doing that it changed nozzle's tip and caused print fails. I found a nozzle from matterhackers (that is no longer offered) from E3vdm that is Tungsten Carbide and is capable of handling any abrasive filament. Best $90 spent.
@@jakobey02 It's similar to (yet not as drastic as) connecting a brass nozzle to a sandblaster. The tip will wear away from the abrasives fairly quickly.
"media has you think you just push a button and out pops a 3d print"
But I do press a button...and a 3d print does pop out...eventually...and there are things I do before and after the button...but they aren't 100% wrong...they just omitted the hard stuff
Hehe yeah, 3D Printing is really easy until it isn't!
@@MakersMuse especially on your 1,748,735 the attempt at printing a key chain...I kid on that...love the vids...I have learned a lot...thanks for all the help!!!
I clearly am living on the Dunning-Kruger Mount Stupid. Assembled my printer, calibrated it, and since then I just push a button an out pop the almost perfect 3d Prints. Fingers crossed my experience stays this way.
@@mlippert I got a DaVinci Jr (with DIY filament tracking chips) and after a thousand hours of print time have started experiencing the joys of printer silliness. Could be my use of cheap filament though.
Great video! Since no one else uses my Ender 3, I keep it clean and dust free as much as possible. Once I was able to dial in the best baseline temp for my nozzle and build plate i lock it in. I use what I know works best for MY printer. I have never had a clogged nozzel or had a bad bowden tube failure. I clean the build plate after 3-4 prints...I still use the original build tack that came came with the printer. It has worked very nicely for me and gets better the more I learn.
This was a great help! Didn't know nozzles need to be preheated for changing. You definitely saved me from a future headache
When I was new to 3d printing my first printer was an ender 3 pro. I had the most trouble with first layer adhesion and finished print removal. I simply stopped using the glass bed, got better at bed leveling and installed an auto bed leveler. Becoming better with bed leveling was very difficult for me to master for several months. A little bit of knowledge, experience, time and effort goes a long way. I sometimes use the glass but I much prefer the flexible magnetic mat.
Interestingly I have been the opposite, the base on the elder 3’s isn’t the most level and the springs are inconsistent, now prefer the glass bed and replaced the springs with harder ones. The glass on the bed means the springs have to be under tension and this has meant that I haven’t had to change the bed levelling in months. Nice and stable with the upgraded springs.
@@Jhale716 Can you let me know which springs you used? Very interested in an upgrade on that part.
My original Ender 3 Pro purchased in Jan 2020 came with the flexible magnetic bed and print plate, I found the aluminium bed was very uneven, so much so that it had dips in the middle, and I couldn’t get a consistent flat bed. I’ve since added the glass plate and changed the springs as I mentioned. Adding the glass bed, not removing the magnetic base stuck to the aluminium bed, you need to adjust the Z end stop higher so it homes in the right place. Just a few mm but enough that the springs can’t be screwed down without moving it. I maintain a list on Thingiverse of the upgrades I have used/made to my Ender 3 Pro, under the handle jhale716.
Just recently on one of the work printers i had the thing just catastrophically kill itself. It's a core xy and i don't know how the head got stuck on the print, but because i was having to print a 10 inch wide box the print won and ripped the hot end carriage apart. Tore off the part that held on the string to the carriage and that cracked it further so one of the wheels broke off as well.
Overall lessons learned, string is far stronger than i gave it credit for and thank god the warranty on these printers is amazing
Luckyly have started follonwing you, Thomas Sanladerer and Chuck Hellebuck (CHEP) even before choosing a printer to buy so haven't made big messses or bumped with big troubles and every time want to try something new like new materials or new nozzle sizes always come here to pick tips about how to do it and in my humble opinion is something much people don't want to do and prefer to do trial and error but not learning from their mistakes.
This is exactly why I am here. Very good information. I can learn from other's mistakes. New to 3D printing and learning as I go.
I use a glass bed with a micro-porous coating. When the plate cools to room temperature the print pretty much falls off. I never try to pull off a print when it's warm or hot.
If you're impatient just pop the plate with print in the freezer for a few minutes. I
As much as i know i shouldnt im really damn impatient. Ill wait until it drops 10deg then pop it off. Usually requires a bit of force but if it just wont come off ill wait
The owner of a Jaycar franchise near me drove the entire business under within six months of buying a 3D printer because he spent all day every day producing failed prints. Worst part was his refusal to take any friendly advice.
I'm spewing he's shut because the next Jaycar is now 3hrs drive away and there's already very little in the way of Maker's Spaces in Central West NSW.
interesting and yes believable. I am a newbie to this 3d printing but have found your videos most helpful in sorting out initial setting to work problems and improving results ever since so thanks Angus appreciate your time and effort.
I watched this because I'm doing my research before spending money on 3d printing, so this was very useful for a neophyte. Thanks! Your "3d printer in a woodshop" story reminds me of when I fixed (2D) printers for a living. One of our clients - one of our least happy clients - had a printer that just *would not* function. Why? Because not only was the site a coal mine, with coal dust everywhere, but they kept the printer in a hallway that was open to the vehicle bay. Where the 3 storey tall diesel haul trucks parked. That printer was so, so dirty. But they really, really wanted that printer in that hallway, so we kept going out and cleaning it, pretty much once a week...
There was a guy at my uni that got expelled for trying to 'fix' the 3d printer.
What he did was using salad dressing to lube the rails on a ultimate, that got him bared from using the printers. The guy then snapped and sneeked in and proceeded to cut wires at random in all the printers.
Y I K E S
I think he had some bigger problems than being bad at 3d printing
@@bkkorner It happens more often than you might think. Little psychopaths are common
"Lets try lubing with salad dressing. Totally won't break the printer. Wait what? I'm banned! Ok, lets destroy all the printers." What logic is that?
I can kind of understand salad dressing instead of white grease (Dunning-Kruger) but that one isn't going to come out of D-K valley anytime soon
He wasn't expelled for trying to fix it, he was expelled for vandalism yikes
Ah the blob of death. Encountered it twice, once it took out my nozzle and the second time I caught it in time. Good times
You pretty much saved me from trying to remove the nozzle cold on my first 3D printer. I'll definitely remember to go through the proper steps for changing out nozzles.
I just got a CR-6E and this came in just time, thanks!
My 3D printer broke due to an unleveled bed, where my nozzle started to scrape the printing bed, and then trying to fix the nozzle led to more mistakes but more problems being solved, and now I just have to replace my nozzle.
I'm having the same issue and still having problems. Hopefully I can fix it soon.
@@themechanic2119 im not sure of the name but im pretty sure you can print a mount that prevents this
Auto bed leveling is your solution. Manual bed leveling is suicide, i cant understand how expensive printers dont come with auto bed leveling. Its just an inductive sensor, a diode and a resistor and it saves your so many problems!
@@laharl2k Because auto bed leveling warps your whole print. think of your build cube (or cylinder), if the bed isn't level that cube rotates, if you were printing a cube the sides should be at an angle equal to the beds departure from level, right? The problem is auto leveling only skews the z position as it moves around X and Y, the only way for the printer to know how much to compensate for in the other axes is to re-slice, which i still haven't seen many printers with enough processing power to even be feasible. So you end up with parts that aren't dimensionally accurate. And idk, in my experience with printers very high end to truly bottom of the barrel, manual calibration is very simple as long as your plate itself isn't warped. I tend to use glass for that reason.
@@laharl2k i think the main reason is that inductive sensors only have a very short range which limits the types of print bed you can use. and well a bltouche is expensive
Is that a real sewing machine in the background? If so, do you have videos on it?
Regarding the pre-heating, both of my printers have a "Filament Unload" feature.
Also, when you started talking about Induction, I began to think that you were talking about induction heat beds. That is something I want to see.
I don't unfortunately, but it has a very unique cam driven stitch pattern that I might cover in future. You 'load' different stitches and could theoretically 3D Print new ones.
@@MakersMuse I just got a Prusa Mini+ a week ago, so this was an informative video for me. I've already had experience with prints breaking loose, but that's a matter of getting my first layer adjustment correct (my aged eyes make that a little difficult).
I've got two sewing machines, and one of them has cam-driven stitch patterns. Unfortunately, that one is broken; there's a gear somewhere in the bobbin drive mechanism that broke, and they don't make replacement parts for it anymore. One of my upcoming projects will be to see if a 3D-printed replacement will work. I hadn't thought about the possibility of 3D-printed cams for new stitches, but thanks for the idea.
I just subbed to your channel. I love the way you explain things in a calm and cool fashion. You're a great teacher. Btw I just bought my very first printer a week ago (second hand) and haven't used it yet. I'm waiting for an SD card reader from amazon. I've owned a big ass 1000 pound CNC machine (router) in my garage for the past 11 years so I'm quite aware of what leveling and a machine with 3 axis is but a new machine is always an exciting new adventure. I'll be checking out all of your vids. Keep them coming. Cheers from Canada.
Thank you very much for this video. I am 77 years old (retired steamfitter) and have been playing with Plastic Printing about 2 years now. This is the best thing I have found to getting young people interested in Fusion 360,, if you can't draw it you can't build it. So helping people getting started like this is the best way to start anything. Successes right off keeps everything moving forward. This can be used in so many fields most anyone can use it. Thank you again.
I’m teaching myself/attempting to learn fusion 360. It’s not quite as easy as I was hoping, but it’s a lot more powerful and actually loads when I ask it to, unlike tinkercad
I have been watching your channel (and subscribed) since very nearly the beginning... I have also been to Joel's channel and Tom Sanlander and CNC Kitchen... of these yours and CNC kitchen are the best while the other two are often a source of "amusement"... I have been doing this since the RepRap project and worked with the industrial grade multi thousand dollar printers for decades prior (including resin). By far the biggest horror stories are the almost open warfare that goes on within the Facebook "printer support groups".... There are quite a few clowns who figure out just enough to get good prints and then they **"Think"** they are now some kind of "Guru"... I have spent hours upon hours deprogramming new users who have had completely wrong information fed to them by these vocal clowns...
First thing I tell them is this is *NOT* a Star Trek Replicator, it is a machine tool that is extremely dependent on adjusting a myriad of interlocking settings to get a good print with each material. First thing is learning how the machine operates and what each setting does on the original machine out of the box. Do *NOT* make any modifications or changes until you know the machine and what the modification is supposed to accomplish and how it will affect the settings and parameters. Next is properly preparing the area and work surface for the type of print and material being used, including periodic checks of the leveling, don't count on some automated mesh software, learn how to do it right. Next, as you said, watch the few first layers going down and make sure there is enough material... that five or ten minutes you spend in the beginning can save you hours of print time and a LOT of wasted plastic later. Then there is the post production processing... taking the print off without damaging the print or the bed and cleaning up any supports, etc...
Overall, overconfidence and lack of understanding are the biggest issues... nobody picks up a musical instrument or a new hobby and is a "master" or "Virtuoso" the very first time they try... it is practice and learning that works best and there are no short cuts... only incredibly sketchy "luck". Sometimes one can do lots of good prints right out of the box with factory specs, but that is because the machine was usually thoroughly tested and adjusted for reasonable quality prints. but as soon as you add or change things, you have broken the warranty and then the clowns start howling about "junk machines"... They keep tinkering and complaining, meanwhile I am happily printing away... I no longer peruse those Facebook groups anymore because I am tired of the clowns arguing and leading people astray... Most of the people who can really help give up after a while because the clowns main mission seems to be making sure that everyone else has problems too and they are tired of arguing with the clowns.
Great video!!! Hope many people see it and I am definitely sharing!
I fall asleep watching my 3D printer print!!!😆😂🤣
Stupid kids ugh...
Lucky, my ender 3 is really noisy. What 3d printer do you have?
@@Noah-ek8hp Ender 3....I installed stepper dampers I sourced from a copy machine boneyard!!! ...I stole its song!!!😳😆😂🤣...metal steppers on a metal frame had some weird resonances!!! Don't know what Creality was thinking when they designed it!!!😏
Honestly it's the most satisfying thing
At this point I don’t mind the noises
blue tape is one of my favorite tools with printing, not only is it a great grit surface but it protects the bed and is easily replaceable
I have done a couple of these in the early days. This is all great advice!
I once 'cleaned' a pre-treated build surface with acetone, thereby stripping the adhesive substance in it.
been there. done that.
Spaghetti detective, plug in for octoprint monitors and catches failures and let's you stop the print.
I appreciate this video. I get my Prusa Mini tomorrow and it will be my first machine so I'm happy to have an idea of what to look out for.
I've had my cheap (under $300) XyzPrinting DaVinci for 4 or 5 years now - and with the procedures I've evolved for operating it, it still works and prints perfectly. Yeah, having to only buy their filament isn't great - but it usually seems to work well, which I'm not sure I could count on if I was buying different filaments from different manufacturers. I usually set my local home security camera to watch it when I'm not in the room for a long print, but rarely have had any problems even if I just check back occasionally.
Thanks for the video, keep up the good work and keep yourself and your family safe and well!
My biggest Mistake:
I just scratched my Bed with the nozzle, because i thought the Auto-Levelling will do it and I couldnt stop the Print immediatly. Well no... You Always need to AUX leveling the bed first even if you got a auto-bed-leveling included.
Then I screwed my Filement winding by letting lose the end - there is a video on this channel too. But this didnt do any damage but the prints itself
a friend of mine tried to clear a blocked nozzle with a 0.4mm drill and broke the drill in the nozzle.
OK yeah... I've done that myself haha. Luckily it did come out.
I just ordered my first 3D printer, an Ultimaker 2+ Connect. And this video has helped a lot. Can't wait for it to arrive!
At first I liked the idea in schools, and I do. But I'm so glad I got into 3d printing on my own, and at age 12 when I'm already good at modeling with either some cad program, fusion 360, or blender for pretty prints. And know about good settings etc, instead of learning about 3d printing with everyone trying to learn but always running into other students stupidity.
And I'm so glad I got Maker's Muse, Cnc kitchen and all of you guys.
So, treat your 3D printer like your kid, keep them clean, give them good information, and feed them good food (Filament).
"I've seen schools that had a 3d printer in the woodwork shop... why?"
Shit, massive flashbacks, the high school I went to got an early deposition bed printer and the only place they could fit it was in a room that was only accessible via the woodshop. Obviously a closed system like a powder bed won't have the same problems an open printer would in that dusty mess but still, WHY?!?!?!?!
and in the media's defense
it is pretty much magic.
shit these machines might've gotten you burned at the stake in the late 80's.
In the 80s folk thought we'd have flying cars and time machines in the future. Either that or we'd all die from a nuclear attack, there wasn't really am in-between.
Pretty sure they'd be cool with 3D printers
Great list of issues. I think we’ve encountered several of those at our student focused maker space. Another one I think we’ve had are students turning off the printer power as soon as the print finishes on our Prusa i3 Mk2 and Mk3 printers. The cooling fan stops and heat rises up the heat break, melting the filament and jamming the print head. Also had someone ignore my “do not use without training” sign and use a sharp spatula on our brand new Mk3 flex-steel PEI print beds, not realizing no tools were needed for print removal.
Good video, as always. I want to ask your opinion. I need a 3D printer that prints flexibles well. Specifically TPUs at 95A and Armadillo TPU which is 75D. We've tried a FlashForge Creator Pro with dismal results (won't even load 95A TPU, after a few filament swap cycles) and also have a Raise3D E2 which has clicking problems (followed by part failure) with either of the filaments above. What are great printers for TPU? Budget is $500 - $6000. About 300mm x 300mm is fine capacity wise. Thanks so much!
*Maker's Muse:* "I have seen people just grab prints and rip them off the print bed..."
*AG112:* 🤦🤦🤦
AH. The superglue-anti-warping technique. We've all been there (works pretty well on glass bed to be honest).
I use, Oatey Standard Grade Yellow ABS Cement, with ABS. And seldom see warping. Easy to remove if put on when slightly warm.. As it pops off when cool..
I have had to remove, disassemble the nozzle assembly on a makerbot because the head was just not heating up enough to clear the jam and we eventually got a replacement print head which worked so much better. Public space in a university; the printer power supply finally failed and now a faculty member purchased a dremel to replace the old printer and I just love it.
My high school’s engineering classes were only given an old wood shop that wasn’t really used anymore but still somehow has a ton of wood dust flying everywhere so unfortunately we didn’t have a choice 😅. But I implemented a strict routine of wiping down and air dusting each machine and it was required before using any machine even if it was just used and even though I made DIY enclosures for each machine as an extra precaution.
what is this "blob of death" i'm scared
Blob of death is basically filament that didn't leave the nozzle and starts to bunch up into a blob as more hot filament is being pushed into it. Because the material cannot leave, heat starts to back up the machine and can damage or destroy components as mentioned in the video. Hope that cleared it up.
HEY IM IN THE VIDEO! MA IM ON THE TV!
Reminds me of an early scene in the Monsters Inc. movie.
GREAT video for someone like myself who's just recently started 3D printing! Soon I hope to 3D print a custom cab for my 14th scale RC semi truck. I'm learning as much about 3D printing as I possibly can, before I attempt to do that.
Great video with some great tips. I hooked up a small camera to monitor my prints and plugged my printer into a smart plug so if I am out of the house and I see an issue I can have Alexa shut my printer off before any real problems occur. It has saved me many times.
"There are NO reasons not to have removable print beds!"
Me, currently building a 500x500mm printer: Uhm... about that... (unless I'd pay 300€ just for that)
could still turn out to be reasonable investment
@@tigerchills2079 I'll think about it once I have 300€ lying around.
At the moment the project is giving it's best to go way above budget so my motivation to spend more is pretty low right now ;)
3D printer in school: rule #1 "Bad idea".
My school has like, 5 3d printers not one of them has ever broke. To be fair my school is very small BUT the usage of the 3d printer is also very open. So i wouldnt say a 3d printer is schools is a bad idea, just be careful (i know you were probably joking, but i just wanted to say)
Thanks so much for your videos. I'm a 3D printing newbie, having just received my Ender 3 V2, so I'm finding your videos essential.
Aloha Angus. As a new 3D printing novitiate (Just received a Prussa i3), an Engineering and Science teacher, I appreciate your warnings. I have greatly enjoyed all your work and knowing I have far to go, look forward to seeing more. Maybe a video for teachers, and how best to use and teach the use of additive manufacturing.
Never use a 12 volt hotend heating element in a 24 volt system...not even PID Tuning can fix it!!!😳😆🤣😂
Are you saying you don't want 140w of pure melting power with a massive risk of fire and molten heating blocks?
Well technically you can but not with the limitations you have on your usual 3d printer boards, and also you would need a beefier psu for nothing to avoid the hugh current pulses from causing noise or anything to the psu or the rest of the system.
PID could do it but youd need a fast PWM and im not sure if the PID loop is fast enough anyways. Provided the RMS power stays within the reasonable limits and the thermal resistance doesnt cause the center to melt before anything outside even feel warm, it shouldnt be a problem. I remember seeing something about fast pwm but for the fan output on marlin.
nobody:
next video: 3d printing nerd - i broke a $38000 3d printer
Linustechtips be like
Quite Scarry video is running thou my head right now
Great video as always
Thanks for sharing👍😀
So damn true. Great video and great to pick such a topic to bring it to a broader audience. Thanks Angus. Thums up.
3d printers are still experimental tech in my eyes, even if ur smart, the failure rate is ridiculously high..but some of the most common issues are 1)filament breaks and clogs entire tube and nozzle 2)plate is not levelled and crashes into nozzle 3)the filament gets knotted as it rolls off the PLA cylinder 4)plate level sensor issues
MANY problems in the world can be solved with a well-placed sniper.
Just saying.
This is a must view for every beginner, especially for the Facebook specialists. 10 out of 10 👍👍👍💪
Just got my ender 3, watching your tips while printing a sphericon, thanks for the tips
Every mistake you iterated here Angus I have made but luckily I started out knowing I didn't know anything so my mistakes were easier to fix. TG the more mistakes I make the more I learn.
That is an important thing to learn in itself. Ask others first but don't be afraid to make a few mistakes. I'm sorry I didn't find Maker's Muse sooner.
Also regarding the "BBD" I have had 5 or 6 layers go down perfectly, walk away for a "cup-pa" and find a nasty mess when I got back. Thanks for the video's.
So much good advice, will use your video for introduction to new students
Having just gotten my first printer last week this video is perfectly timed.
I never had to undo my nozzle yet but I didn’t know you have to do it when it’s hot because the threads expand and contract so I’m glad I heard that here in case I need to undo it in the future
The removable bed is the best advice ever, i was having continuous leveling problems on my anet , down to the forces of removing the prints.
Excellent video and channel! very enlightening and entertaining cheers!
Helpful information. I liked your video
During the opening times of our makerspace there are always staff folks running around and keep an eye on the machines. But also all people need to make a lecture with all the basics where they learn the important basics and also do their first print. This first print piece is a little coin with a number which then is the sign they have made the lecture successfully. They are also said to ask if they're unsure about a thing and that they need to watch their prints especially in the beginning. Sometimes it's a bit like kids in a toy store, hard to hold control.
Good information. I needed this long ago.
I remember when I was in this little alternative school where we had a lulzbot mini, the prints would often get stuck to the bed far to much because people would just cover the bed entirely in glue stick and never clean it, there was also a no knives or weapons policy that lead to the scraper thing used to remove the prints being effectively thrown out
The only way that I've messed up my printer was the aluminum tube that slots into the block of the hotend was faulty, and started to create a layer of pla on top (without my knowing). It then cooled between prints so that the plastic started to squeeze between the silicon sleeve and eventually reach the nozzle. made me think that something was wrong with my settings until I decided to try changing the nozzle and found my hotend had a lovely white glaze on it...
I finally built my Folgertech I3 2020 from a few years ago. I'm guilty of most of the bed adhesion things. I've done Painters Tape and also tried crazy glue to the painters tape.
The Z-axis limit switch is dicey at best for what you get. I was trying to print an improved bracket to let me adjust the limit switch with a bolt and was struggling to keep anything adhered down. In my defense, I got it made, and it really did improve the consistency for bed adhesions.