RTV no-no’s , Before you go ultra…….. watch this! How to use RTV gasket maker correctly
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- čas přidán 15. 05. 2022
- How to use gasket maker.
How to use rtv gasket maker.
How to use rtv silicone.
Hello and thanks for viewing.
I decided to make this video as theres a lot of assumptions when it comes to rtv and how to apply it.
I hope this video helps you in some way shape or form!
Lou Palomino - Auta a dopravní prostředky
You need a Valco Cincinnati Tube-Grip. Makes it much easier to apply the RTV.
Oh….my……god…… never stop learning!!! Thank you for sharing! I will pin this post! ❤️
Agreed I keep 3 in the bottom of my roll cart. AWESOME!
Brilliant, my arthritis in my hands always flared up when squeezing the RTV out of these tubes!
I have 2 in service truck and 2 in shop they are game changers for silicone ECT .
I’m doing a oil pan on my civic can I use ultra black or should I get Honda bond also do I need to put some on both sides on pan and engine
I’m an ASE Master Technician
thank you for this outstanding video
This video is excellent.
Probably not many people will need this information, but for those who do -- friggin lifesaver.
Almost 90k views I would say everyone needs this type of information ❤️ thank you for finding it useful!
I like this guy because he leaves a tiny bit of area for you/us, the learning tech, to figure out the exact technique and finesse required. It keeps the mind in engineer mode, instead of just learning word for word like an AI robot.
thank you, I truly appreciate nice comments like this, I do not want anyone to do what I do..... I want them to start by doing what I do and then find their own way. my way is not the right way, its my way based on teachings and experiences.
ASE master tech here as well. I have uses untra black years. On timing covers and other large covers I've always used my finger to spread the rtv out and wiped any excess away from the inside (where the oil is) before assembly. Never had any leaks doing that. You are 100% correct, a tube will last a long time. A dab will do ya!
"Master tech" 😂😂😂
@1:00 also something very important to note about those Roloc discs. They contain oxides/abrasives the same found in sand paper. Using those on any open engine/case work will load what ever you are working with abrasive particles. These particles are especially bad in engine oil and can cause bearing failure. Using the RTV Dissolver and plastic scrappers are perfect. You can use Roloc discs but only if you can use a parts washer/clean the parts really good before re-assembly.
Very good, and practical information. Never thought about plastic blades and gasket remover. Will add these to my tool arsenal. Thanks.
Thanks for the pliers tip. I've always struggled to apply rtv because of the pain on my fingers caused by pressing the tube for a while.
Thank you!!! Excellent video and tips. Watched two other videos prior and they were very cavalier about surface cleaning, silicone application, and machined surfaces. You explained very well the DOs and DON'Ts of application. I needed that to mate the two aluminum surfaces that I am about to assemble.
Wow thank you, I'm glad I watched this. You just saved me from making an avoidable and expensive mistake.
Ooops... I am one of those who used METAL Razor Blades. :( I gotta say I do recall having snags. I went over it with a smooth sanding paper (probably another no no). I wished I would have seen this video before having to remove the gasket that I can't get off this 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Motorcycle's oil pan. Plus I don't have a lift to work properly underneath, so being upside down for hours is painful. I'm almost done and have the surfaces as smooth as I can get it. I've been searching how to place RTV correctly before I mess that up and I ran into this video. I will make sure to make the bead as you explained. I hope I don't have any issues because of my removal methods :(
Excellent video. Thank you for the excellent tips. I must confess to previously laying on the RTV like a plumber.. Never again..
Thanks Lou for the videos you made
Thanks. One of the most thorough minded videos I've seen so far. I'll be looking at more of your videos 1st from this point if I need any more help.
Thanks for the great video! Informative and useful!
I needed this vid last week. Thanks Lou
Sorry I’m late! 😕. Hope it helps for the future. 🤷🏼♂️
Thank you for your knowledge and support
you make a very convincing argument
thank you for sharing your thoughts
My experience is based on trials, tribulations and training. I appreciate the feedback
Very helpful tip bud, thanks for info👊
Great informative video. Many thanks for sharing your expertise with us. Regards from Sydney Australia
Felicidades, es de los mejores videos ke he visto para la aplicación del rtv (silicon), saludos desde Mexicali BC.
Thank you for a highly informative lesson👍👍
Thank you for getting right to the point!
Before watching this video I would have used too much of a bead. Thanks for the education.
Pliers to squeeze and roll the tube while you go, will too often put tears/cuts in the tube then it's dried out the next time you try to use it. Just cut the nozzle slightly bigger, and take your time as it is only a minute difference either way. I find it easier to just push near the back of the tube and not worry about trying to get the tube perfectly flat/rolled during application, instead wait till you're done, lay the tube on a flat surface, and just roll a hard round object from the tail of the tube, up it till the RTV is filling the top and coming out a little. You want it to come out a little so when it forms a dry plug, that seals the tube then you just pull that plug off the next time you use it.
wow..... I've been wrenching in my garage/driveway for almost 30 years and your "post-it note" and "finger spread" examples were great teaches. (Light bulb went off- FINALLY!) years and years of doing it wrong and sometimes getting lucky. Makes sense now with your visuals why so little is recommended. Much appreciated all you effort in creating your content. Liked and New Subscriber 👍
2 huge issues in the automotive world. 1- none of us are taught correctly.
2- none of us communicate correctly.
We all somehow just figure it out as we go 😂
@@MasterTechLou 100% correct. BTW, I used your teach this weekend replacing an oil pan. Practiced on a piece of cardboard to get my strips the correct size and to understand the flow rate. It was scary putting it together with such little amount of RTV product, but in the end, it's holding ...no leaks, and it's the cleanest looking seal I've ever made! Who would thunk?! Thanks again.
Great video. Thank you!
awesome video! thank you soo much for the useful information. i defiantly added to much rtv on my oil pan for my honda haha
Great video, didn't know they made plastic razors!
Awesome straight forward video giving us the right information to get the job done the right way. Thank you so much for sharing your professional knowledge with us all.
Very useful. I know I need to work on bead work even for some adhesive work that I do. I love your explanations and demos. I wonder if I can get some washers to practice (putting the washers on a nut/bolt, put my bead on, then tighten it up to see if my bead was appropriate or not based on the ooze). I'll find a way to practice somehow...before having the guts to do it on an engine. :) It was a short video, but every second of it was useful. Thanks!
Good video two improvements would be covering proper product sealer selection and using a clear flexaglass plate to show the excess squeeze out and proper torque to show and tell . Clean and ppprepp
Great tips
Great information.
Man i just did my trans oil for the first time the other day and im proud to say i inuited a bit of this. Kept a small, probably closer to 3mm bead nice and tidy all the way around. Used a plastic putty knife to removed all the old shit. Did a final clean with some brake cleaner - a recommendation from a trusted friend and bolted her back on with new filter, gaskets oiled.
Measured the amount of fluid removed and replaced exact amount.
Only thing i got lazy on was checking the fluid level at operating temp post-op. Mazda CX 5 requires removal of air box to get to the dipstick which is bolted in from the top. I just got lazy and said fuck it, i measured. 😅
Get the Valco tube grip, works excellent!
rtv though is also used as a gasket type filler in some applications that might not be metal to metal
the mating surfaces might include a gasket with gaps that the rtv bridges in this case a wider bead is used say 1/4" bead to fill the space between the two ends where the gasket would join except for the space between the ends
if you follow...
Great video. I had the oil pan sealed twice and its still leaks through from few locations because of incorrect application of the sealant and because of over-sanding the aluminum pan
Really great video !
Thanks !
Oh man sorry to hear! Thank you so much for the nice comments. I hope it works out for you! Lou
First time I heard of over sanding a pan, as long as it’s flat and theres adequate flange thickness to hold oil it should be good. The filter might not fit or be right up against the bottom but that’s extreme
Fantastic video! Thank you
Thank you!
Lou, Thank you for creating these videos! It is interesting how I came across you on youtube. You had worked on a Mercedes C280 I owned previously when you were a Suds. That has been some time ago. Now I purchased an SL550 and here you are again! Love the universe : ) I am in central IL. and would like to link up with you again if possible?
Ah! A fellow manifester! You can find me at detail Peoria. 🙌
@@MasterTechLou Awesome! I will slide by next week. I look forward to seeing you again!
Excellent tutorial! Plastic razor blades??? Never knew!! Amazon right now…
very helpful
ive always had great success with dawn dishsoap to get rtv off, i just mix it in a bottle and spray it on.. then just blade it off.
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Would have liked to see how much you squirt out on the sealing surface before you joined the parts. Thanks for the valuable chemical tips!
I used almost the same bead as the small bead in the notepad trick. about 2mm thick. thats what we are taught through mercedes.
@@MasterTechLou
OK, thanks. I just installed the front cover on an '07 4-Runner 4.0L engine. Used about 3/16" bead and it squished out perfectly! Used Permatex Optimum Black and Gray around the water openings. Finger tightened and let sit 1 hour then torqued. I think it needs to sit finger tight for an hour to absorb oxygen to cure property. Anyway, thanx for your informative demonstration and commentary!
Another nice job Lou.
I will only use recommended methods, or Anaerobic sealant and only a very thin layer at that.
Never new about plastic razor blades and gasket remover thank you for that video 🫵
glue for the crankcase that is filled with the crankshaft, do you suggest using silicone or liquid sir? And what brand of glue is good, sir?
Nice
If you really want to see how much to use, just look up a "factory assembly" video and watch the robot put on a little bead. It's typically about the size of the straw on a WD40 can, or the little white tube of a Q-tip. Not much bigger than 1mm in diameter- maybe 2mm's max.
Our spec is 2mm +/-0.5 mm
Hey guys relax a bit. Seeing a few comments on clogging up oil galleries and such with rtv. However those oil filters are amazing things. The only way you get to clogging up the engine is if you have so much stuff in the filter that the filter bypass activates. I think best case scenario is if you let it cure properly into a hard solid. If the filter can catch broken off engine bits, I'd think rtv should be no problem 🤔
Good thought but what you are missing is that almost all newer engines use rtv for everything, and if used on the top end it will clog passages and drains where the cams are at and vvt solenoids. Sure thats solid advice on a chevy 350 from the 70’s, but these newer engines have a lot going on. And rtv issues is the reason I made this video ❤️
That permatex rtv remover didn't work in the 80s, and still doesn't. There are the blue or orange fiber brushes you can put on a drill, or brass brushes but plastic scrapers, razors and wd40 are sadly the best way. Good video.
How long does cure time for liquid seal
Well damn, I’m def the bad bead guy 😅 to be fair I never had problems over 100,000 Miles
Thanks you for speaking in millimeters.
Well explained, but what about engine oil and filter intervals after rtv use? Thanks you
Good question, I don’t think it matters cause if you put too much depending on where, the damage is already done. Filter will catch what it can, and oil pickup will clog. Good question tho. Thanks!
@@MasterTechLou i have read that it will mix with the oil and although it's harmless unlike dust silicon, the oil in the engine while repair should be changed
@@mm-il8dg if its hard on the outside its hard on the inside. Which is why you should give it time to cure. Im not sayin your wrong by any means. But ive never had to worry about changing oil right away. Only if cleaning old silicone from an engine and getting excessive debris.
Master tech Lou get you a valco tube squeezer
I wonder if plastic razors are sharp
So question, I'm gonna do a transmission pan gasket on a 99 Camry.
Came with gasket and filter and I've read on a book and Haynes repair manual that the gasket is enough by itself to seal, but I feel like including some gasket maker to hold the gasket is that fine or will I get problems in the future?.
Gaskets are fine alone. As long as the pan is flush and the holes arent dented in . I usually run a hammer over the holes to make sure theyre flat if the pan is metal. If torqued the right way a gasket is all you need.
Why not make the two surfaces touch and wait until the RTV hardens slightly to reduce the spread and then torque it? Would you still have excessive RTV enter the transmission?
If you think about what you are sayin you are now tellin me you want hard rtv between two surfaces. Only way to reduce spread is to reduce rtv amount 😉
But about every aluminum part ive ever rtv’d has been all kinds of scratched up and dinged on the sealing surfaces,.
Are you supposed to finger tight the bolts to let the sealant tack up for a minute or so? And then factory spec bolts?
No, you apply the sealant and then usually have about 15 minutes to mount the parts and then it takes a full 24 hours to cure.
I always squirt some on a piece of paper as well as a test so I know that when it gets hard that means I can fill the parts with fluid then
Here’s one… new water pump, new water pump backing plate (it’s on a Delorean and doesn’t mate up to the block), paper gasket. Both surfaces new and flat… to seal or not to?
not rtv, if anything I would use indian head gasket , its a shellac, if spelled right, i have no idea what that means haha but its an old school, verify thin, so NO you do NOT have to use anything but the paper, BUT due to the age of the car and the parts which most likely are not oem, I would feel more comfortable adding shellac. its smears on with like a q tip kind of a head, you will see,. just a gentle coating, should be good .
Good video. Can you tell me if l should use rtv on a water pump gasket made of steel with some sort of felt-like coating on it ?. Thank you in advance.
Thanks! And absolutely not. If any gasket need’s silicone added its ones that cover two different surfaces. Like timing cover to cylinder head. But the mls gasket you have is all thats needed. I know we tend to think “surely thats not enough “ but what came off is whats been keeping it sealed this whole time. Those can be called multi layered seals MLS. But its truly all thats needed. If anything to ever add, Indian head shellac is the way to go. But anytime you need to add something it will be shown in the work instructions. Hope my ramblings help 🥴. Basically my answer is no. But I hope your surface is not damaged by any means.
@@MasterTechLou Thank you for the detailed response. Somehow it just doesn't "look" like it will make a water tight seal. But I'm going to resist my urge to run a bead of rtv around it :)
@@shinola228 what year make model engine?
@@MasterTechLou It's a 2008 Sonata 3.3. I don't have it yet, I'm just preparing to do the job for a friend. So l got an Aisin pump and it came with the gasket l mentioned. Unfortunately that gasket was kinked on one end due to poor packing - l straightened pretty well l think but that also made me want to put the rtv on it. I would send it back to rockauto but I've returned other things recently so I'm thinking they might feel I'm abusing their free return policy.
@@shinola228 ah the hidden info, order a new gasket from O’Reilly’s, dont dare use a bent one.
Doing a water pump on charger and I keep getting different opinions about etc silicone on rubber gasket I still have not come to a good solution
You dont add silicon to rubber seals. Theres no reason to. Rubber seals usually stick up 1-2mm higher than the surface and squeeze when tightened. There are rare instances where you would want to. Like if there’s two mating surfaces across the seal then you add a dab of silicone to make up for the imperfections.
Can this be used to as a gasket sealant for thermostat housing?
Thermostat housings either use paper seals or rubber. There is never a need for silicone in my experience.
I once saw a Lotus engine with a cam destroyed by a 1/4" square piece of RTV that got loose in the engine.
So Mercedes gave american techs a class on how to reseal an engine because all of the engines that were being turned in to warranty failed because of excess silicone. a warranty claim would be denied if the tech didnt take that class. It was kinda embarrassing to learn that we go large, on everything we do haha.
How do u keep the rtv from drying in the tube? Recapping it doesnt work.
Rtv does have a shelf life so I dont really reuse rtv tubes unless its within weeks. But even then ive usually only had to clear the top opening or the cap so fresh can come out of the tube.
@@MasterTechLou i use rtv about twice a week and everytime its always dried up under the cap and always needing to try unplugging the tube. Capping it tightly doesnt work. Theres got to be a solution.
Is there some reason for not cleaning up excess on outside or is it just preference? Thks..jc
Not really a reason to. Also to me you want it there to stop anything getting into the cracks if any, lets say you wipe it off, what if it pulls out any sealant that you need in between the surfaces allowing debris in. Its just not common to worry about the little bit that squeezes out. It doesnt hurt anything .
@@MasterTechLou Got it..thks
Hi. Do I still need to use this If the product comes with a gasket? I'm doing a water pump and was told to use a gasket maker, but what's the proper way? Thanks
You dont need additional on top of the gasket. If you wanted you can use a spray or super light coating of indian head but its not necessary.
@@MasterTechLou thank you for the response. Appreciate you.
Hi
Tried to go to cartechconnect, website could not be found? How do contact you about a s500 intermittent stall, dash power loss, no crank issue.
I do have an icarsoft mb2, just not sure what to look for in the scan.
Hello, I closed the site down. Sorry .
you crazy cutting it that small i need to use so much pressure to squeeze it out my hands die, is there a better way to do it?
Never mind i saw the tip and trick thank you
@@alejandrogaming9465 most people comment before watching the video fully
Do you use Mercedes brand sealant for aluminum oil pans or can you use something else?
I use mercedes however it’s basically loctite with mercedes name on it. Black silicone is basically black silicone. In my experience. But use a brand name.
@@MasterTechLou okay thanks for the quick reply. I removed my oil pan from my c250... it was the hardest job I've ever done...I don't want to put the wrong sealant and have to drop the subframe again... talk about a headache.
@@stemulatedstudents I hate oil pans upside down…… pull the oil filter. Let engine drain and drip as long as you can. Worst part is tryin to put oil pan back with oil dripping
@@MasterTechLou lol it's been a week so I'm sure it's pretty dry...I've just been apprehensive of which sealant to use...is there an alternative to loctite sf 7200? I can't find it anywhere near me.
@@stemulatedstudents amazon next day delivery 😉 or local parts store has got to have black rtv from loctite or permatex
Does the rtv go on the inside or the outside of the bolt holes?
That depends on the application, almost always it goes on the inside because you’re keeping the oil from leaking outwards. But it also depends on what your sealing because sometimes oil can come from all around the hole. There’s usually instructions on whatever you are sealing as to the path the sealant should be applied. That was a great question. It’s just not a one-size-fits-all answer.
is it better to have a round bead or to flatten the bead before mating the two surfaces?
Later in my video I show to never flatten the bead with your fingers
What about on a front diff actuator ?
Unless there is an o ring then yes it may need silicone.
Is it safe to use rtv for a valve cover?
Safe? sure, but it depends , if you are using ONLY rtv? does the car call for a gasket? if so, we do apply small dabs depending on the car and head. but we never make a gasket alone from rtv UNLESS its a machined surface.
Man got a PHD in RTV
😂😂 “To seal or not to seal, that is the question “
I just got annoyed with seeing some of the things we see day to day. And figured I would share my experience with this. Hope it helps.
Loctite 598 in 190ml pressure can and forget about all that malarkey...
Does your bead size demonstration apply to oil pans as well?
Absolutely. You are not making a gasket you are filling in imperfections of mating surfaces.
What's the part number of that tool?
Which tool?
@@MasterTechLou sorry, the silicone cartridge gun. And also the part number of the cartridges for it too, please
@@mjk4378 003-989-98-20-10 for silicone and 112 589 00 25 00 for the gun
@@MasterTechLou dope! Thanks dude
How long do you let it setup for?
Good question, one thing I may not have shown, is, once I bolt the parts together, I then squirt some rtv on a piece of paper. I check it periodically, once its tacky and getting solid, I then fill fluids. I use that as my gauge. it actually sets up faster in the presence of air , or lack of air, depending on the sealant used. But Ive never waited more than an hour to add fluids. Not that I can remember.
Have you ever watched the Permatex "training" vids? Their bead is hilariously large.
Thats what she said. Wait that doesnt apply. Back in the day, silicone was a replacement for gaskets . So you would goop the heck out of it. But now everything is machined dang near perfect so we are only filling in the gaps. You should see any dodge transmission pan
🫣🥴🤮 its crazy how much is used on all the ones I see.
not ultra, right stuff best.
More is always better.
Fuck
Lou, I have a 92 previa and all the valve cover gaskets I can source are all after market. (Felpro V Reinz) When I install them with the factory valve cover bolts, the gaskets barely squeeze to the head. In turn, they seal for a couple months max. I’m hesitant to use silicone in tandem with the rubber gasket. Do you have any ideas? Thanks in advance for any advice.
hmm, I would not suspect the valve cover itself to be an issue, nor would I add silicone to the gasket UNLESS I did a thin bead on the cover, let it dry and then use the gasket. but I still dont feel good with that idea. Toyota part numbers are 1121376020 and 1121476010 I tried calling my local one today but they didnt answer. So try the dealer? this is one of those odd scenarios where I would have to be there to see how the gasket sits when tightened. not sure what to advise other than trying the dealer or find NEW OLD stock gaskets with those numbers.
yoo what about brake clean? Workin on a 1zzfe cylinder head
You can use brake clean and a lint free rag to eat away silicone too, yes.