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Use Your Handplane to Fix Torn Grain! Traditional technique! You already have everything you need! 👌
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- čas přidán 17. 09. 2022
- With cross or curly grain, set the cap iron close to the cutting edge and take fine shavings.
It's as easy as that, but it does take some practice. But this is true of anything worth learning. Woodworkers are often near obsessed with the "perfect" dovetail and will spend hundreds of pounds on tools and even training sessions, just to get it right.
I would wholeheartedly encourage you to take a moment to master a tool you likely already have and increase its versatility in the woodworking you do.
This advice only applies to bevel down planes with a cap iron. This broadly means anything that looks like a Stanley Bailey #3 to #8, Lie-Nielsen's versions along with Clifton and Veritas. There are other options too.
Make sure the mouth of the plane is open, I have the frog of my planes slid back so it is level with the casting. There is no need to close up the mouth. If you do choose to close the mouth of the plane you'll actually create problems.
A sharp cutting iron is important, this goes without saying! Set the cap iron close to the cutting edge. There is no sensible way of measuring this, it is done by feel and experience.
Take very light shavings. The shavings should be flat, not curly. If they curl, it is my experience that tearing of the grain will still happen. On the other hand you don't want to see shavings that look like mini accordions.
Then simply take light cuts and you should, with a little bit of effort, be able to take through shavings. The extra effort is worth noting. If the grain is mild and easy working, slide the cap iron back to its normal setting.
Happy experimenting!
As a novice to hand planes, I struggle quite a bit with shifting grain and knots. This video is super helpful because I now realize why.
Awesome! It's a good skill to get under your belt. Without it, a hand plane is pretty limited and I'm sure it turns people to sanders.
That’s nice work. I also like the 5 1/2 for the same reasons you mentioned.
Cap irons are so underrated! I see modern plane makers making single iron smoothing planes with ultra tight mouths. This just goes to show that having the cap iron set so close and taking off a thou at a time will get you amazing results. Thanks again for the tips & tricks!
Hi James. Those planes you describe are lovely as objects, they work but are not as versatile or helpful at the bench as a decent Bailey 👌
Good video. Good info. Thank you
No problem, thanks for the feedback 👍
Well done! Thanks!
You are most welcome!
Great Tutorial . Thanks
Chris, you are welcome!
Great info! Thanks for sharing.
No problem!
i quie enjoy yuor channel.
That's good enough for me 😊
Hey kids!! don't forget to send this to paul sellers!
Thanks David! I'm not the plane daddy you are. But the key thing is that you don't need to be to get the benefit.
I notice you didn't skew the plane for a sheering action acres the offending grain areas?
Hi John, thanks for the question. I watched it again and I skew it, not massively but I would say between 5 to 15 degrees. Would you agree?
John, when planing around a knot as graham is doing, the trouble is the wood runs out into the surface in sort of a cup shape. The straws, so to speak, are in a small area and no matter what you do with the plane, at some point, they will be facing straight up into the plane bed.
If you skew, the issue will be elsewhere in the cup instead of in the front at the edge in this case, but you can skew a little and improve things some. On wood like this (here is a bigger cup) i.imgur.com/WVfU06w.jpg - you plane as well as you can plane with anything and then scrape out with the fibers if needed.
To visualize the problem with the straws, even with the cap iron set, imagine I told you that you need to cut dead center across a bunch of straws, but you must only hold your knife parallel to the straws. The only thing you can do to cut straws like that without turning the blade (which you can't do in a plane) is push laterally into the straws until you scrape them off.
The key with the cap set close is even in wood like this, you can't really do any damage planing so there's no risk. if the cap isn't set, you can do huge damage and create enormous follow up work.
@@daw162 Great feedback. Thanks for putting meat on the bones.
I think you covered this a bit early in the video, but I am curious, why not just sand progressively up to higher grits , starting 120 and up to maybe 400?
Jeff, absolutely you can sand if you want to. Your satisfaction and that of the end user of your piece would not be affected by sanding.
I guess I like working with edge tools. My great-granddad would say to finish off the tools. I find that motivates me. It also saves on having an extractor, a sander and abrasives. A £30 vintage Handplane with a £5 second-hand sharpening stone and clean surfaces are a satisfying experience.
Sanding can take longer, depending on the tear out. Aside from that, for the most part, after finish you wouldn't know the difference. But sandpaper isn't capable of leaving as good of a surface as a sharp, finely tuned hand plane. The plane slices the fibers and leaves an almost burnished surface. And as Face Edge Woodworking said, it's just satisfying. But that's just my two cents.
Just skim it off with some putty and hit it with the random orbital sander. Job done.
Paul, if you have a random orbit that's a perfectly good method 👍
@@faceedgewoodworking oh I have those. The best is a pneumatic dual action sander. Electric can't hold a candle to air power. The only problem with air DAs is they can drip on the work. So you can tie a rag on the exhaust port and that helps.
Respectfully sir, there is still tearout everywhere on that board, how can you end the video?
Hi Rusty. Thanks for the comment. I'd be happy to do a short and post a link here of the surface if you like. It's perfect!
czcams.com/users/shortsWvHp6ozXQpA?si=RJV3rlssdqkrzpRq there you go!
Looks like ash.
It is! I like ash for its cool pale look. Can be a bit troublesome to if you like to keep knots in the work, but that aside it's good.