I just spent about 2 hours sharpening chains with a 520. I've learned to test each chain before assuming that I have a straight cutting chain that will make nice big flakes. The grinder works well, but you have to understand your adjustments and monitor your work as the wheel wears.
The spring housing that is made of cheap plastic breaks. Causing the cutting head to drop. Is easily fixed by hooking an equally cheap bungee cord to the handle and screwing the other end to the wall!! Great engineering!!
This is a chain for homeowner saws, and as a homeowner in the Southeast who doesn't really count wood by the cord czcams.com/users/postUgkxbs4FIpzuLyOJe2SesfbtvXi1CTnUXroD I have this (or 20BPX) on several saws at different levels of smallness. I've never felt that the safety chain is holding me back. I buy multiple chains, and when the installed one doesn't feel grabby enough, I file it, then throw it in a cup of gasoline while I rotate to the next one. I have yet to file one down to the wear lines, so I feel like I'm getting my money's worth, and I'm happy about this new 3-pack - although, at this rate, it's going to be awhile before I buy another. I don't know why I would try anything else.
Would have been nice if the 410-120 sharpener/grinder had come with the angle guid on the side,have to guess the 10° angle in my 410-120 so your quote saying you can use these instructions for the 410 as well are slightly inaccurate,luckily I am able to work around the issue.
hallo from Greece !! very usefull video. please may you tell me the dimensions of the the griding disc that you use to set the depth gauses? in cm please. thanks a lot !!!
Hi Peraxoriths, the dimensions of the grinding disc that we use to set the depth gauges is 6.4mm (.64cm). If you need any additional information or assistance, please feel free to contact us at technicalservices@oregonproducts.com and one of our Technical Services Experts can assist you. Thank you, The Oregon Team
I buy .404 on a 100’ roll/ full skip/ square grind /chisel......I use a grinder to resharpen 5-10 chains at the time..... I wish I had the time to sharpen them by hand.....I did it for many years until I saw the idiots run them into the dirt/ concrete one too many times. I just use the grinder now.....
This is the biggest challenge with this grinder. The instructions on centering the wheel don't really help. I use a micrometer and measure the teeth. I have to make an adjustment from the right to the left side to get the teeth the same. However, even with the teeth the same length, I still get chains that cut in a circle.
Yeah, I bought a HF grinder a number of years ago too. It does an okay (pedestrian) job - better than sharpening by hand. But I just bought one of these and the difference is night and day. With the HF model there are issues like the flimsy chain stop, chain moving some while grinding, etc. I burn a lot of firewood every winter and I can tell you that this Oregon model is legit. I got a few tips from the guy that I had previously used to sharpen my chains at a local power equipment shop from time to time. They use the same sharpener in their shop and I feel like the chains I've sharpened recently have turned out better than the ones they've done for me in the past and I'm plowing through wood almost as good as a new chain. Worth the money to me!
Hi Henry, You would want use the 3/16” wheel for this chain type. If you are doing more than one chain, the 520-120 would be the best choice. For the larger chains, the motor on the 420-120 tends to get hot. If you need any additional information or assistance, please feel free to contact us at technicalservices@oregonproducts.com and one of our Technical Services Experts can assist you. Thank you, The Oregon Team
7:14 I'm unsure why they show a tilt on the head for grinding the depth gauges. I set the head to zero degrees. This would be the same as your flat file, if you were doing them by hand.
Because the disc they have in the grinder has an angle in it and having the head tilted makes the surface perpendicular to the cutter, the same as a flat file
Yeah, I noticed that too. I can add a few points. In the manual (the printed book I got with mine anyways...) they tell you to adjust the down angle first (the +/- 10° angle) before adjusting the top plate angle (also called vise angle) and then the head tilt angles. According to the manual, if your chain needs the 10° angle, you're supposed to use the "10 down" reference marks instead of the "0 reference marks" when adjusting the vise and head tilt angles. This video doesn't mention that! Another thing I noticed is that the initial set up when the machine is aligned (not in this video...), they don't mention that the alignment is for when using new wheels, and you're supposed to compensate as the wheels wear out. They also don't say how that compensation is done. I think (from another post somewhere I forgot ...) the alignment should be made to have the center of the vise match the center of the motor arbor while the disc is touching the gullet on the right place (with the right angles already set up...). Would be happy if someone could confirm but I've researched this a lot, even on forums and those are the things missing and the answers I found.
I used same settings and adjustments on a new chain. I just changed the angle for left side and right side. All the top plates on the left side are shorter than all the cutters on the rights side. Does anyone know why this is happening? thanks
When you change from one side to the other, you need to adjust the cutter stop again, take the barest amount off, then use vernier calipers or an adjustable wrench to compare the cutter lengths. Keep adjusting the cutter stop until the second side cutter is the same as the first. You will still have problems on the larger chains because the side plate angles will be different each side, as the cutting corner impacts the grinding wheel at a different point along the arc. To understand what I'm saying, put the chain on the sharpener and put a pencil mark on the wheel that lines up with the depth gauge. Now change the angle for the other side and move to the next (opposide side) cutter. Put another pencil mark. You'll see that they're significantly apart. And bear in mind that the cutting corners are further to one side than the depth gauges, so it's even worse. That's why so many people cut curves and end up throwing their grinder away, and so many people on forums just say that electric grinders are crap. The Stihl electric sharpener on the other hand, has a forward and backward adjustment (90 degrees to the chain) for the chain holder. They slide the chain holder forwards and backwards 15mm side to side on a 404 pitch chain so that the side plate angles are equal. I can't for the life of me understand why Oregon (who must know about this problem) continue to sell grinders that don't have the forward and backward adjustment. If you're cutting large timber with a large chain, you're going to be cutting curves. I've only just worked this out and confirmed it with my local Sithl dealer. I'm about to muck around with the down angle adjustment to see if I can get my side plates equal.
Hello, City TV 19, and thank you for your question. Currently, Oregon doesn't manufacture a chain grinder that will sharpen square ground chain. If you have any additional questions regarding chain sharpening, please feel free to contact our knowledgeable Technical Service Experts at technicalservices@oregonproducts.com or call 1-800-223-5168, Option #1. Thank you, The Oregon Team
Nice to see them actually used and the features. Here’s a quick video of two cheap electric chainsaws I did with actual video of them being used, with some pros and cons. One is the Oregon self sharpener! czcams.com/video/BKP0T11ayPM/video.html
That music is EXTREMLY aggreviating & distracting. Are you in the saw sharpening business or the elevator music business? I have a radio & can turn it on if i feel the need for "happy music" while working with dangerous power tools.
I just spent about 2 hours sharpening chains with a 520. I've learned to test each chain before assuming that I have a straight cutting chain that will make nice big flakes. The grinder works well, but you have to understand your adjustments and monitor your work as the wheel wears.
The spring housing that is made of cheap plastic breaks. Causing the cutting head to drop. Is easily fixed by hooking an equally cheap bungee cord to the handle and screwing the other end to the wall!! Great engineering!!
This is a chain for homeowner saws, and as a homeowner in the Southeast who doesn't really count wood by the cord czcams.com/users/postUgkxbs4FIpzuLyOJe2SesfbtvXi1CTnUXroD I have this (or 20BPX) on several saws at different levels of smallness. I've never felt that the safety chain is holding me back. I buy multiple chains, and when the installed one doesn't feel grabby enough, I file it, then throw it in a cup of gasoline while I rotate to the next one. I have yet to file one down to the wear lines, so I feel like I'm getting my money's worth, and I'm happy about this new 3-pack - although, at this rate, it's going to be awhile before I buy another. I don't know why I would try anything else.
I've watched dozens of these videos and they all have additional points not made in others. This one seems complete.
Very helpful video. Thanks.
Quite good video. Good for beginners- explanation what the grinder do . Also explanation of the elements of the chainsaw.
Thank you Oregon...great video
Nice chain grinding tool & description too ! It is helpful ! Thanks !
1p p11111
But it’s really expensive!
Would have been nice if the 410-120 sharpener/grinder had come with the angle guid on the side,have to guess the 10° angle in my 410-120 so your quote saying you can use these instructions for the 410 as well are slightly inaccurate,luckily I am able to work around the issue.
I have a cheap chainsaw sharpener now Someday I will upgrade grate video
Does it work?
Un material si pt.drujba Profi line 361B ??? pe cand..chiar nu are nimeni ?
Só tem que lava a correte antes de afiar pra remover o oleo
Oregon is the chainsaws best friend
Amazing
very helpful Thankyou
hallo from Greece !! very usefull video. please may you tell me the dimensions of the the griding disc that you use to set the depth gauses? in cm please. thanks a lot !!!
Hi Peraxoriths, the dimensions of the grinding disc that we use to set the depth gauges is 6.4mm (.64cm). If you need any additional information or assistance, please feel free to contact us at technicalservices@oregonproducts.com and one of our Technical Services Experts can assist you. Thank you, The Oregon Team
2:50- what is "the appropriate position"? How do I determine appropriate position?
It is specified on the box of the chain or on their website.
I buy .404 on a 100’ roll/ full skip/ square grind /chisel......I use a grinder to resharpen 5-10 chains at the time..... I wish I had the time to sharpen them by hand.....I did it for many years until I saw the idiots run them into the dirt/ concrete one too many times. I just use the grinder now.....
Hi,no mention of blue stone ,or CBN grinding wheels ??
The chain vise assemble can slide in and out . The 0 to 20 degree scale. When is this used when sharpening a chain?
Why do you have to adjust tooth length from right to left to get teeth the same length ?
There is a belief that if they are not equal in length then the saw won't cut straight. I don't believe there is any evidence to this claim though.
@The Axis i cut plenty. There's still no evidence
It’s a myth! Consistent angles is what you’re looking for. 👍
This is the biggest challenge with this grinder. The instructions on centering the wheel don't really help. I use a micrometer and measure the teeth. I have to make an adjustment from the right to the left side to get the teeth the same.
However, even with the teeth the same length, I still get chains that cut in a circle.
Complete myth. Oregon wants you to burn chains up as fast as possible to buy more.
When all else fails buy a $28 HF grinder. Been great going on 8 yrs now..
Brand and model?????
Freddy Alexander just go on the harbor freight website and type in chainsaw sharpener.
@@markworkman9224 Men! I bought the Sthil 2 in 1 and this thing is awesome!
I bought the ugly orange colored one there for $40. I sharpen about 3 chains a week,it does pretty good for a basic sharpener.
Yeah, I bought a HF grinder a number of years ago too. It does an okay (pedestrian) job - better than sharpening by hand. But I just bought one of these and the difference is night and day. With the HF model there are issues like the flimsy chain stop, chain moving some while grinding, etc. I burn a lot of firewood every winter and I can tell you that this Oregon model is legit. I got a few tips from the guy that I had previously used to sharpen my chains at a local power equipment shop from time to time. They use the same sharpener in their shop and I feel like the chains I've sharpened recently have turned out better than the ones they've done for me in the past and I'm plowing through wood almost as good as a new chain. Worth the money to me!
Can you pls tell me how many degrees is cutting corner (Head Tilt Angle) ?
How to buy ... Price
My 410 the tooth I am sharpening moves is there way to adjust the vise to get it more secure?
allora affilare viene il primo mestiere tagliare il secondo
can this be used to sharpen a .404 pitch chain?
Hi Henry,
You would want use the 3/16” wheel for this chain type. If you are doing more than one chain, the 520-120 would be the best choice. For the larger chains, the motor on the 420-120 tends to get hot. If you need any additional information or assistance, please feel free to contact us at technicalservices@oregonproducts.com and one of our Technical Services Experts can assist you.
Thank you, The Oregon Team
7:14 I'm unsure why they show a tilt on the head for grinding the depth gauges. I set the head to zero degrees. This would be the same as your flat file, if you were doing them by hand.
Because the disc they have in the grinder has an angle in it and having the head tilted makes the surface perpendicular to the cutter, the same as a flat file
@@LocksmithLegend23 Agreed, but my grinding wheel came with it does not have a angle
@@ST-cy6we I wondered why they would tilt the wheel and dress the disk to match it . I didn't find an answer in the comments .
To look fancy
3:16 Can anyone clarify this. What are they talking about?
Yeah, I noticed that too. I can add a few points. In the manual (the printed book I got with mine anyways...) they tell you to adjust the down angle first (the +/- 10° angle) before adjusting the top plate angle (also called vise angle) and then the head tilt angles. According to the manual, if your chain needs the 10° angle, you're supposed to use the "10 down" reference marks instead of the "0 reference marks" when adjusting the vise and head tilt angles. This video doesn't mention that! Another thing I noticed is that the initial set up when the machine is aligned (not in this video...), they don't mention that the alignment is for when using new wheels, and you're supposed to compensate as the wheels wear out. They also don't say how that compensation is done. I think (from another post somewhere I forgot ...) the alignment should be made to have the center of the vise match the center of the motor arbor while the disc is touching the gullet on the right place (with the right angles already set up...).
Would be happy if someone could confirm but I've researched this a lot, even on forums and those are the things missing and the answers I found.
@@machannel8746 This appears to be an issue. Resulting in tooth length.
Blik mata grendanya bisa onlaen gak
I need please tell me
I used same settings and adjustments on a new chain. I just changed the angle for left side and right side. All the top plates on the left side are shorter than all the cutters on the rights side. Does anyone know why this is happening? thanks
When you change from one side to the other, you need to adjust the cutter stop again, take the barest amount off, then use vernier calipers or an adjustable wrench to compare the cutter lengths. Keep adjusting the cutter stop until the second side cutter is the same as the first. You will still have problems on the larger chains because the side plate angles will be different each side, as the cutting corner impacts the grinding wheel at a different point along the arc. To understand what I'm saying, put the chain on the sharpener and put a pencil mark on the wheel that lines up with the depth gauge. Now change the angle for the other side and move to the next (opposide side) cutter. Put another pencil mark. You'll see that they're significantly apart. And bear in mind that the cutting corners are further to one side than the depth gauges, so it's even worse. That's why so many people cut curves and end up throwing their grinder away, and so many people on forums just say that electric grinders are crap. The Stihl electric sharpener on the other hand, has a forward and backward adjustment (90 degrees to the chain) for the chain holder. They slide the chain holder forwards and backwards 15mm side to side on a 404 pitch chain so that the side plate angles are equal. I can't for the life of me understand why Oregon (who must know about this problem) continue to sell grinders that don't have the forward and backward adjustment. If you're cutting large timber with a large chain, you're going to be cutting curves. I've only just worked this out and confirmed it with my local Sithl dealer. I'm about to muck around with the down angle adjustment to see if I can get my side plates equal.
Will it sharpen "Square Chisel" chains?
Hello, City TV 19, and thank you for your question. Currently, Oregon doesn't manufacture a chain grinder that will sharpen square ground chain. If you have any additional questions regarding chain sharpening, please feel free to contact our knowledgeable Technical Service Experts at technicalservices@oregonproducts.com or call 1-800-223-5168, Option #1.
Thank you,
The Oregon Team
Well oregon you should. Give us a option other than the simington.
? use a diamond dresser and modify the grinder wheel then :)
Nice to see them actually used and the features. Here’s a quick video of two cheap electric chainsaws I did with actual video of them being used, with some pros and cons. One is the Oregon self sharpener! czcams.com/video/BKP0T11ayPM/video.html
How much
Nice
Sar ya mujay chaya
Finally the video that makes sense
How Much
Probably some absurd about, probably like 500 bucks
Не пойму, что он говорит, но всё показывает четко 👍
On vryot
why is his chaps got a chunk taken out ?
MOTOR SHOULD TURN ANTI-CLOCKWISE AND CLOCKWISE, to grind INTO TOOTH and not BURR cutting face,.... 3000rpm max as FASTER BURNS TIPS
Meu amigo Bruno bom dia
Combien sa coût
Hii
रेट
मेरे को चाहिए था रेट वताऐ
That looks like it takes way too long
Not when yr chain is uneven on either side or the chain is as dull as the fool next door
You make up that time cutting with an even chain
@@rubes1688 I don’t cut. I run a business. My guys want a faster way to sharpen chains when saws get serviced
Hi
Milelka
That music is EXTREMLY aggreviating & distracting. Are you in the saw sharpening business or the elevator music business? I have a radio & can turn it on if i feel the need for "happy music" while working with dangerous power tools.
I agree
@@fishnriver h ft cct
Oardat
czcams.com/video/ULj6fGSaG2k/video.html и так бывает
ترجمه فارسی
Bhajan aapka mobile number bhej do na
Sharpening by hand is faster and easier
Bonsai Zen when you rock the hell out of your chain a grinder sharpens it way faster trust me
Hand sharpening needs talent!!
Also highly inaccurate if done wrong.
I couldn't imagine sharpening saw chains with diapers on my hands.
Too much adjusting!
Oregon! Why is there no reverse on 410 and 520!!!
Nice