Thanks for another great video. This answered some questions for me regarding the balance and action of glide baits. Making my own baits has become quite some hobby for me, and I've been a fan of your work for several years on here as well as other sites where your creations are displayed. I really appreciate the time you put into helping others like myself learn from your videos and tutorials. Your work is truly incredible.
I have to say that I am always impressed with how you make your lures and your well spoken directions. You and Paul Adams have taught me a lot about building lures-specifically hard baits- and their components. Outstanding video as always.
I just found your channel and have also watched a couple of your painting videos. Great work, lots of very useful information. Be careful with that titanium dioxide though, you don't want to inhale it (accidentally of course), might give you cancer. I'm definitely going to subscribe, very impressed with your workmanship.
Great video and so many great little tricks, i may have to watch this at least another ten times(that is today), it was great to see the Titanium oxide and also mold and wire set up. I will have to steal the ending with that split screen comparison, cheers Mikko. Nice also to see the drilling in the hand as well, i still get people moaning about the dangers of it, if only they could see me filling the car up while, smoking and using my mobile.
***** yeah i like to live dangerously and drilling stuff when your just holding the object makes you a total bad ass anyways (or a cheap ass cos you don't want to buy a proper drill press)
***** well its just macho talk ( but im sure you already know it) and of course you can get seriously hurt if you don't know what your doing or are not fully paying attention, that's why i still have all of my fingers attached and never have injured my self seriously when using power tools.
I typically fish for striped bass here and use similar shape to the one in the video..mine don't really dart side to side but more wobble and wave..especially when falling..just curious if you had seen that at all or suggestions..
I know you've probably been asked 1000 times, but what size hooks do you use with your baits? Im assuming around 1/0 or 2/0 but I could be wrong. Also what brand, strength, finish etc.? Im thinking of going with 1/0 Mustad 2X Strong. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I've been making lures for about a year now, (inspired by you and Paul Adams) and I've been having problems with the clear coat epoxy not covering smoothly. orange peel sort of affect. I use createx paint do you know of any issues with compatibility? Maybe I'm thinning the paint with the wrong kind of thinner , got a DIY thinner formula on line, ...any tips on getting a smooth finish?
figured it out, to much weight actually, I guess preventing it to actually swim. went to one spot weighting and it like a totally different plug. swims and darts perfectly
yes..I'm a avid fishermen, I use a bunch of different types of lures but can seen to get it to dart..perhaps its to heavy and the wood is to buoyant.. I use poplar for topwatwer lures so I'm thinking to switch to oak or maple to see if it changes
+alan depalma it could be the wood them also there are little nuances that come to play when you want to make a lure that glides well its all part of the game though. keep at it and im sure you will figure out eventually how to make the bait glide well
Im starting to get into lure making any many of my ideas are spit baits so no need for wire through construction, but with that being said I want to make jerkbaits and cranks for bass and muskie and was curious to know what type of wire do you typically use. Thanks again.
yep i've tried it years ago, it smells absolutely horrendous and hardens way too slow for polyurethane clearcoat, it also hardens too hard and peels of easily. i use various types of 2 part epoxy clearcoats, envirotex, katana resin and Mr. boat epoxy.
So, as the water temp drops I'm stuck in London working for 3 weeks and another week to go before heading home to Stockholm and getting out in the boat terrorizing gädda, stumble on one of your videos 5 hours ago and still watching, great stuff, them lures you are making are up there with Stampe and PeWe, are you selling them?, the hard body paddle tails look more than interesting...har det bra.
do you know any difference in how the nose is shaped as far as it gliding? rounder or narrower? .mine have a slightly square shape and are typically swaying like a pencil popper lure would.. I'm looking more for that glide action
Took 2 planks of wood, clamped them together and drilled a hole in the middle making sort of a crude mold that i can use to cast lead bars that i can then chop into right sizes
SolarBaits you ever test the strength of the through wire in the resin ? Or ever gave the wire pull out ? I can't see it ever happening but curious if you experience anything. Thanks
Hi; I'm in this hobby or this diy lures for a few year ago, I have learn a lot from guys look like you and by my self. To be honest this is the hard part to me placing the weigths not to balance it, to make it swims.. My question is making this way to balance it very horizontally will me it to swim? Wiggle? I use my lures for surf fishing and most of the time them have to be retrieved medium to fast speed.. I have made some that works perfectly, but every lure is different, I need to learn a trick or a procedure to weight balance them and make them swim, without lip.. I don't like to use lip, I will appreciate any advice. Thanks Victor
Victor Garcia using one weight at the centered to keep bait level while falling will give bait more side to side action rather than weighting the lure in two places, I believe h mentions that.....I also make baits and just recently shot a vid of me making my first glide bait but I did not show how I weight them, but next video I will
I honestly cant remember the weight of then as this video is rather old already. i use a wooden mold that allowes me to cast lead bars so thats what they were.
I don’t know if this is a dumb question but what does the titanium dioxide mixed with the sealer do? Do you have to have the titanium dioxide in the mix?
Are those resin poured? Watching you drill, looks like they were. But I can be totally wrong. If they are. Have you ever used smooth-on resin? Or is there a specific trait you look for in resin?
@@SolarfallBaits awesome thank you! I just grabbed some but was reluctant to see if it was worth it price wise. I'll send a follow on insta. I really appreciate the help 🙏 videos are super awesome
Hi Man, great tutorial, just wanted to ask for your advice when comes to epoxy ....i have applied epoxy and after 24 hours my lures are still i wouldn't say sticky but kind of ... means when i press it with my nail it makes traces so what could be the problem ? Thank a lot and greetings from Dubai
i guess it really depends on the epoxy that your using since some epoxies take much longer to fully cure to the final hardness. if it seems that still after couple of days its still soft there is a possibility that you did not get the mixture exactly right and the surface might just stay soft.
SolarBaits thanx for fast reply, i got 30 min epoxy from one of hobby store, and i mixed same quantity of both risin and hardener but still a bit sticky.. for how long i should mix these two? i did exactly as you on your video.... what epoxy do you have ? regards
Yo :) that might be the thing some of those hobby store epoxies dont actually cure to a very hard finish and still have some elasticity i personally like to use envirotex. it has much longer cure time but it hardens to really tough finish.
SolarBaits ok thank you for clarification, some of these epoxy's is very hard to find and since i am in Dubai its impossible :) Also i have noticed that yours epoxy is more liquid.. can i find that one on ebay? if yes please send me a link so i can order it asap .. really appreciate your time, hope you will come one day to Dubai so we can go for tuna fishing :) i have sent you fb request but still haven got accepted,my user Jovica Drobnjak Joe Moretti so please add me Thanks
I'm having an issue where I weigh the bait in the water for perfect suspension. I drill my holes, add the exact same weights in the exact same spots. Add my filler, sand down and when I put the bait in the water again it sinks like a rock. It's happened on my last two baits. Both basswood. Had to drill out a bunch of the weight. Does hard baking soda weigh way more than wood?
What do you mix the plastic putty with in order for it to work properly? Do you know a putty that works even better to fill holes for hard plastic lures?
@@SolarfallBaits Thanks for the response, I appreciate it! Can you give me an example of a resin I could use? Like a brand I could try? I've never made my own lures before so I don't even know what resin to try. However, I do want to drill a few holes on some of my large crankbaits and jerkbait to add weights to them so that they would suspend and cast the way I want them to be suspended and cast.
quick question, I have a bait that darts well but on a slow retrieve it goes on its side and to the surface? no swim at all. it has a good sink rate so I'm stumped.
And please advise how to work out exactly the amount of weight needed? any mathematical ways of achieving this? Say I am trying to make one 100g of stickbait with the walk dog action, I will try to scale the total weight of the body, wires and hooks, will the remaining weight from the 100g be the weight to be added on using lead? Many thanks
Well it really depends on the properties of the material your working with. a 100g stick bait made from cedar will need more weight than a 100g stickbait made from maple because of the dencity difference. Im sure there is a way to calculate the amount of lead you need before you start to work on the weighing i just dont work that way and rather test out what looks good by simple testing different weight placements and amounts in a water bucket and go from there.
@@SolarfallBaits thanks for help out. try out with hardwares and hooks and adjust to the desired swimaction will be my approach to balance the stickbaits as you suggested
Very nice video , Mikko , .......basically I'm doing the same thing weighting my timber jerkbaits , though using different materials and sealers . One thing I also do , when testing the bait in the water bucket , is hanging a paper clip into the line tie eye to resemble the weight of the wire leader attached when fishing the bait later . But when doing such big baits of that size shown , it might not make a significant difference , I guess , ..... but I most likely make smaller jerkbaits and I've found , that the finished baits often sank nose heavy , before I started to utilize the paper clip for weighting . Greetings , Dieter
yeah i've actually done something similar too, i've attached the leader to the glider i'm weighting to get it sink exactly dead level but i got to say i don't think it really necessary to be that "hifi accurate" on most occasions when you fishing pike with lures like these if your jerking them on a pretty consistent rate and don't take long pauses in between the jerks.
nice video but I don't know where I can but my wiaght in fishing lure each time I do it . sink in water but when I bull it . it give me bad action not like real fish I hope if u help me to solve it thx
that's why you need to experiment what works for you, its kinda difficult to give you any pointers because A.i dont know what the lure looks like B.what material you are using C.what thickness the material your using D. the size of your lure lenghtwise E. the diameter of the lead you have been using etc etc
Helpompi tapa on käyttää kumilenkkejä. Pari kierrosta kumilenkillä 8samalla tavalla kuin hiuslenkkejä käytetään) ja paino kumilenkin alle. Helppoa siirrellä kohdilleen ja kahdella kumilenkillä painottaa vaikka 200 jerkkiä. Ja taatusti halvempaa kuin teippi.
taisin manita tuossa videossa että kumilenkitkin kelpaa, itse satun vaan diggailemaan enemmän teipistä sen luistamattomuuden takia eikä tuo loppuunsa ole edes kallista .
This video is dang old, if you check out my newer vids you’ll see that i’ve invested in a drill press. However i still prefer to drill stuff by holding the lures in my hand 😓
As un video completo que valga la pena así esta incompleto... Saber medidas de alambre y numero de anzuelos y que material ocupas de contra peso y con que le haces las marcas de los ojos todo eso describelo si quieres ganar mas publicidad saludos es mi humilde opinión
yanik alain i can honestly say that i have never drilled to my fingers/hand or damaged my self in any way when just holding the object that I'm drilling in the palm of my hand, i guess i must have a vise like grip or something;)
@@SolarfallBaits Im a pro also, Ive been handling drills since 1979, but have seen just about every accident you can think of, drills slipping and going into fingers, accidents with chain saws, band saws, etc. so I simply never allow myself to be complacent and that's what you are experiencing. Just use a vice and be safe, its not a lot to ask to keep your digits and keep the tendons in your hands. After all if you were teaching this to an apprentice of novice you wouldn't tell them to drill this way so practice what you would potentially teach and be safe.
@@Elfin4 the thing that does not translate very well from the video is the control and amount of presure i put on the bait. i always start really softly until i get deep enough that i know the drill is not going to slip and i have a good tight grip. When you do this in your hands as long as i've done it you dont get accidents because you know how to handle the tool your using in a safe way. by all means use a vise if you feel more safe that way. only reason i would use a wise and i actually will in a future video im working on now is to get a better framing with the camera where i dont have to worry if the thing im working on is in focus or not.
To all the Tim Taylors out there: Use a vise to drill the holes os the drill will end up in the palm of your hand. You need the experience of someone like Solar to do it freehanded.
Thanks for another great video. This answered some questions for me regarding the balance and action of glide baits. Making my own baits has become quite some hobby for me, and I've been a fan of your work for several years on here as well as other sites where your creations are displayed. I really appreciate the time you put into helping others like myself learn from your videos and tutorials. Your work is truly incredible.
I have to say that I am always impressed with how you make your lures and your well spoken directions. You and Paul Adams have taught me a lot about building lures-specifically hard baits- and their components. Outstanding video as always.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. I have learned so much from you.
I just found your channel and have also watched a couple of your painting videos. Great work, lots of very useful information. Be careful with that titanium dioxide though, you don't want to inhale it (accidentally of course), might give you cancer.
I'm definitely going to subscribe, very impressed with your workmanship.
jeah, thats what i was waiting for the whole time^^
thanks mikko :)
Great video and so many great little tricks, i may have to watch this at least another ten times(that is today), it was great to see the Titanium oxide and also mold and wire set up. I will have to steal the ending with that split screen comparison, cheers Mikko. Nice also to see the drilling in the hand as well, i still get people moaning about the dangers of it, if only they could see me filling the car up while, smoking and using my mobile.
***** yeah i like to live dangerously and drilling stuff when your just holding the object makes you a total bad ass anyways (or a cheap ass cos you don't want to buy a proper drill press)
*****
well its just macho talk ( but im sure you already know it) and of course you can get seriously hurt if you don't know what your doing or are not fully paying attention, that's why i still have all of my fingers attached and never have injured my self seriously when using power tools.
Ur video inspired me!!thanks a lot!!
I drill my weights the same way. But watching your video, damn that is dangerous!!! I think I will start putting mine in a vise.
Great video
what can i say, i live on the edge lol
awesome video,thank's for the time and advise .
Hey Mikko. Where do you buy your smoothcast 300 and other molding material? Great tutorials!
I typically fish for striped bass here and use similar shape to the one in the video..mine don't really dart side to side but more wobble and wave..especially when falling..just curious if you had seen that at all or suggestions..
Hello from France, Thank you very mutch for this vidéo, i Have à question, Your clear coat is polyurethane ?
What wire do you use for the frame on casted lures?
it could be..thanks for the info I appreciate it..great videos !
no problems i hope you get the issues sorted, im thinking it might be something as simple as using different kind of wood.
Your lures are very impressive but I hope you have a very good medical insurance keep up the good work
Also would be great to see one video tutorial like " how to attach eyes on lure" that would be helpful... cheers
I know you've probably been asked 1000 times, but what size hooks do you use with your baits? Im assuming around 1/0 or 2/0 but I could be wrong. Also what brand, strength, finish etc.? Im thinking of going with 1/0 Mustad 2X Strong. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for this video. Very inspiring. Do you use CAB varnish for the final coating as well or is Envirotex better?
this stuff is much softer than epoxy in general, so in my opinion envirotex is better as a topcoat
Use baking soda in your epoxy to fill holes. Old trade secret. Cheap and sands really nice.
Chris McCuaig ahh interesting how ever the plastic putty I use sets faster and is cheaper.
Would you mind saying what type of wood you use for these baits? Awesome work, thanks for the tutorial.
for jerk/glide baits i prefer to use maple
"fancy belly flashes", haha
I've been making lures for about a year now, (inspired by you and Paul Adams) and I've been having problems with the clear coat epoxy not covering smoothly. orange peel sort of affect. I use createx paint do you know of any issues with compatibility? Maybe I'm thinning the paint with the wrong kind of thinner , got a DIY thinner formula on line, ...any tips on getting a smooth finish?
Cheers to how far you've come!
figured it out, to much weight actually, I guess preventing it to actually swim. went to one spot weighting and it like a totally different plug. swims and darts perfectly
hello, you plunge the lure into paint??
yes..I'm a avid fishermen, I use a bunch of different types of lures but can seen to get it to dart..perhaps its to heavy and the wood is to buoyant.. I use poplar for topwatwer lures so I'm thinking to switch to oak or maple to see if it changes
+alan depalma it could be the wood them also there are little nuances that come to play when you want to make a lure that glides well its all part of the game though. keep at it and im sure you will figure out eventually
how to make the bait glide well
Titanium dioxide is the white filler in pills also.
Im starting to get into lure making any many of my ideas are spit baits so no need for wire through construction, but with that being said I want to make jerkbaits and cranks for bass and muskie and was curious to know what type of wire do you typically use. Thanks again.
Dane D I make baits as well and I like music wire....it is tempered and stainless steel
hi there what you used to fill up weight holes please ? thanks
I'm stumped also, I'm thinking I might have to much weight towards the back.
Have you tried Solmaster LV1 as a clearcoat what you put on a painted lure?
yep i've tried it years ago, it smells absolutely horrendous and hardens way too slow for polyurethane clearcoat, it also hardens too hard and peels of easily. i use various types of 2 part epoxy clearcoats, envirotex, katana resin and Mr. boat epoxy.
what thickness do you use for wood? I typically use 5/8 and use poplar but having to load a ton of lead in order for it to sink..typically 2-3 oz
+alan depalma i usually use 18-20mm thick maple for glide baits, other hard woods will work too.
So, as the water temp drops I'm stuck in London working for 3 weeks and another week to go before heading home to Stockholm and getting out in the boat terrorizing gädda, stumble on one of your videos 5 hours ago and still watching, great stuff, them lures you are making are up there with Stampe and PeWe, are you selling them?, the hard body paddle tails look more than interesting...har det bra.
thanks and yeah i do sell my lures sometimes too to fund my lure making addiction :P
do you know any difference in how the nose is shaped as far as it gliding? rounder or narrower? .mine have a slightly square shape and are typically swaying like a pencil popper lure would.. I'm looking more for that glide action
+alan depalma narrower more needle like shapes usually cut water better so technically that should allow the lure to move better in the water
How did you create your pieces of lead? Great work again :)
Took 2 planks of wood, clamped them together and drilled a hole in the middle making sort of a crude mold that i can use to cast lead bars that i can then chop into right sizes
Ah ok. I noticed this method also in a video of Paul (Adams). Cool I'll give it a try
SolarBaits you ever test the strength of the through wire in the resin ? Or ever gave the wire pull out ? I can't see it ever happening but curious if you experience anything. Thanks
random question, I noticed some of your baits have hook hangers in the belly, just curious how you secure them in? ive been using a filler.
for example here i've used screw eyes and just secure them with epoxy
do you melt your lead or just compress slider weights?
melt
Hi; I'm in this hobby or this diy lures for a few year ago, I have learn a lot from guys look like you and by my self. To be honest this is the hard part to me placing the weigths not to balance it, to make it swims..
My question is making this way to balance it very horizontally will me it to swim? Wiggle? I use my lures for surf fishing and most of the time them have to be retrieved medium to fast speed.. I have made some that works perfectly, but every lure is different, I need to learn a trick or a procedure to weight balance them and make them swim, without lip.. I don't like to use lip, I will appreciate any advice. Thanks
Victor
Victor Garcia using one weight at the centered to keep bait level while falling will give bait more side to side action rather than weighting the lure in two places, I believe h mentions that.....I also make baits and just recently shot a vid of me making my first glide bait but I did not show how I weight them, but next video I will
Hi thanks for the vid .. may I ask about how hravy was each of those lead balls ? And was that just a sinker cut in half ? Many thanks regards.
I honestly cant remember the weight of then as this video is rather old already. i use a wooden mold that allowes me to cast lead bars so thats what they were.
@@SolarfallBaits ok no probs will do some trial and error thanks
I made a few so far but can't get the weight right..any advice to get a good sway action as far as weight placement?..
+alan depalma hard to say, much of it comes down to the shape of the lure and the material that you used.
I don’t know if this is a dumb question but what does the titanium dioxide mixed with the sealer do? Do you have to have the titanium dioxide in the mix?
Its a pigment that is used to make the color white
Are those resin poured? Watching you drill, looks like they were. But I can be totally wrong. If they are. Have you ever used smooth-on resin? Or is there a specific trait you look for in resin?
These ones are from smooth-on resin
@@SolarfallBaits awesome thank you! I just grabbed some but was reluctant to see if it was worth it price wise. I'll send a follow on insta. I really appreciate the help 🙏 videos are super awesome
Hi Man, great tutorial, just wanted to ask for your advice when comes to epoxy ....i have applied epoxy and after 24 hours my lures are still i wouldn't say sticky but kind of ... means when i press it with my nail it makes traces so what could be the problem ? Thank a lot and greetings from Dubai
i guess it really depends on the epoxy that your using since some epoxies take much longer to fully cure to the final hardness. if it seems that still after couple of days its still soft there is a possibility that you did not get the mixture exactly right and the surface might just stay soft.
SolarBaits thanx for fast reply, i got 30 min epoxy from one of hobby store, and i mixed same quantity of both risin and hardener but still a bit sticky.. for how long i should mix these two? i did exactly as you on your video.... what epoxy do you have ? regards
Yo :)
that might be the thing some of those hobby store epoxies dont actually cure to a very hard finish and still have some elasticity i personally like to use envirotex. it has much longer cure time but it hardens to really tough finish.
SolarBaits
ok thank you for clarification, some of these epoxy's is very hard to find and since i am in Dubai its impossible :) Also i have noticed that yours epoxy is more liquid.. can i find that one on ebay? if yes please send me a link so i can order it asap ..
really appreciate your time, hope you will come one day to Dubai so we can go for tuna fishing :) i have sent you fb request but still haven got accepted,my user Jovica Drobnjak Joe Moretti so please add me Thanks
Yo :) i get my epoxy from lurepart.nl but im sure ebay has envirotex too so you should be able to get that stuff shipped to dubai too i think
Which should be mixed with titanium dioxide
Where can I get the CAB clear coat in the USA or equivalent? Anyone??? = )
What is that gorgeous knife? A pukko ? what brand ?
Yeah its a puuko knife i bought it from a blacksmith from a fair 20 years ago
I'm having an issue where I weigh the bait in the water for perfect suspension. I drill my holes, add the exact same weights in the exact same spots. Add my filler, sand down and when I put the bait in the water again it sinks like a rock. It's happened on my last two baits. Both basswood. Had to drill out a bunch of the weight. Does hard baking soda weigh way more than wood?
I've never used baking soda and superglue but my guess that it is heavier than other types of filler.
What do you mix the plastic putty with in order for it to work properly? Do you know a putty that works even better to fill holes for hard plastic lures?
I just use a stick to mix the plastic putty. You could also use the resin you use to cast the lures to fill up the holes.
@@SolarfallBaits Thanks for the response, I appreciate it! Can you give me an example of a resin I could use? Like a brand I could try? I've never made my own lures before so I don't even know what resin to try. However, I do want to drill a few holes on some of my large crankbaits and jerkbait to add weights to them so that they would suspend and cast the way I want them to be suspended and cast.
Do u know u can use 5 min epoxy mixed with fine sanding dust it gets real hard
Yes i know, you can do that with any kind of glue.
Hi,
How did You weight the pike about i asked few minutes ago? (its one of You movie)
Like one point or Two?
+TheMajki1989 i've weighted that from 2 spots
hi what is the approx ratio of titanium oxide to varnish please?
you dont need much, for one liter of varnish i use maybe 1 spoon full of titanium oxide
quick question, I have a bait that darts well but on a slow retrieve it goes on its side and to the surface? no swim at all. it has a good sink rate so I'm stumped.
i have no idea what could cause that, i guess maybe you just need to do more experimentation on the weighting
Hello
What is the name of white powder
And where can I buy
And what are the mixed ingredients
For example, every liter needs a few grams
Youzersef74 I say it in the video it's plastic putty, you can get it from most hardware stores.
I mean the white mix that dives the lure
I don't understand what you mean by that.
WHAT IS TITANIUM WHITE POWDER
Where can I buy?
And please advise how to work out exactly the amount of weight needed? any mathematical ways of achieving this? Say I am trying to make one 100g of stickbait with the walk dog action, I will try to scale the total weight of the body, wires and hooks, will the remaining weight from the 100g be the weight to be added on using lead? Many thanks
Well it really depends on the properties of the material your working with. a 100g stick bait made from cedar will need more weight than a 100g stickbait made from maple because of the dencity difference. Im sure there is a way to calculate the amount of lead you need before you start to work on the weighing i just dont work that way and rather test out what looks good by simple testing different weight placements and amounts in a water bucket and go from there.
@@SolarfallBaits thanks for help out. try out with hardwares and hooks and adjust to the desired swimaction will be my approach to balance the stickbaits as you suggested
Very nice video , Mikko , .......basically I'm doing the same thing weighting my timber jerkbaits , though using different materials and sealers .
One thing I also do , when testing the bait in the water bucket , is hanging a paper clip into the line tie eye to resemble the weight of the wire leader attached when fishing the bait later .
But when doing such big baits of that size shown , it might not make a significant difference , I guess , ..... but I most likely make smaller jerkbaits and I've found , that the finished baits often sank nose heavy , before I started to utilize the paper clip for weighting .
Greetings , Dieter
yeah i've actually done something similar too, i've attached the leader to the glider i'm weighting to get it sink exactly dead level but i got to say i don't think it really necessary to be that "hifi accurate" on most occasions when you fishing pike with lures like these if your jerking them on a pretty consistent rate and don't take long pauses in between the jerks.
or perhaps I went past the center line and causing roll?
perhaps or there just is not enough weight to counter the rolling, hard for me to know with out knowing what it's exactly you did and how.
nice video but I don't know where I can but my wiaght in fishing lure each time I do it . sink in water but when I bull it . it give me bad action not like real fish I hope if u help me to solve it thx
that's why you need to experiment what works for you, its kinda difficult to give you any pointers because A.i dont know what the lure looks like B.what material you are using C.what thickness the material your using D. the size of your lure lenghtwise E. the diameter of the lead you have been using etc etc
hi there ... can u tell me what u use to cover the holes ? i don't understand from video ... "plasic ...... " thanks
its plastic putty
thanks
@@mihaitotoianu6470 You can also use car body filler.
What is the liquid or substance Which should be mixed with titanium dioxide
Its polyurethane lure varnish cab hard. But you can mix titanium white anything as its a pigment.
Can I mix with Sealer or Varnish
Like i said you can mix it with anything you want
what did you use to weight it
lead
CAB-uistinlakka kirkas regular--CAB-uistinlakka kirkas hard --CAB-uistinlakka matta--CAB-uistinlakka valkoinen --CAB-Lead Primer
8:48 Holy shit mate!
NEVER drill towards your hand like that!!!
don't worry I'm a pro, i know what I'm doing ;)
@@SolarfallBaits , famous last words.
Mistä hankit nuo silmäruuvit?
Can you please tell me proportion how much grams of Titanium Deoxide to mix on how much liters or Laquer?
A tea spoon worth of titanium white will make a liter of lacquer pretty opaque so you wont need alot
@@SolarfallBaits Thanks mate for answer! What are your thoghts about Abachi wood for glidebaits?
Helpompi tapa on käyttää kumilenkkejä. Pari kierrosta kumilenkillä 8samalla tavalla kuin hiuslenkkejä käytetään) ja paino kumilenkin alle. Helppoa siirrellä kohdilleen ja kahdella kumilenkillä painottaa vaikka 200 jerkkiä. Ja taatusti halvempaa kuin teippi.
taisin manita tuossa videossa että kumilenkitkin kelpaa, itse satun vaan diggailemaan enemmän teipistä sen luistamattomuuden takia eikä tuo loppuunsa ole edes kallista
.
SolarBaits Selvä. En niinkään keskittynyt noihin mainittuihin vaihtoehtoihin.
I use a dosapiombo to weight my lures
Pinewood derby cars use weights like these.
or I'm guessing those are casted plugs not wood
Voitko tehdä suomenkielisen jerkin valmistus videon?
eipä ole paljon järkeä moisessa kun 95% katsojista on muualta kuin suomesta
How I have to weight a swimbait with lead?
Ramon Notz yeah pretty much
I'm a cheap ass too LOL
You need a drill press. That bit is going to tear up your hand
This video is dang old, if you check out my newer vids you’ll see that i’ve invested in a drill press. However i still prefer to drill stuff by holding the lures in my hand 😓
As un video completo que valga la pena así esta incompleto... Saber medidas de alambre y numero de anzuelos y que material ocupas de contra peso y con que le haces las marcas de los ojos todo eso describelo si quieres ganar mas publicidad saludos es mi humilde opinión
Good video but why do not use the vise when driling is too risky.
yanik alain i can honestly say that i have never drilled to my fingers/hand or damaged my self in any way when just holding the object that I'm drilling in the palm of my hand, i guess i must have a vise like grip or something;)
I can agree, a drill bit jammed in your wrist, twisting to a stop sounds like a good reason for a vice.
Thanks for your opinions, but please raise your voice
Since i posted this video i have upgraded the audio. So perhaps you might enjoy little bit more recent videos from me.
Drilling into your hand is so dangerous. Just be safe and put the wood in a vice.
dont worry i'm a pro
@@SolarfallBaits Im a pro also, Ive been handling drills since 1979, but have seen just about every accident you can think of, drills slipping and going into fingers, accidents with chain saws, band saws, etc. so I simply never allow myself to be complacent and that's what you are experiencing. Just use a vice and be safe, its not a lot to ask to keep your digits and keep the tendons in your hands. After all if you were teaching this to an apprentice of novice you wouldn't tell them to drill this way so practice what you would potentially teach and be safe.
@@Elfin4 the thing that does not translate very well from the video is the control and amount of presure i put on the bait. i always start really softly until i get deep enough that i know the drill is not going to slip and i have a good tight grip. When you do this in your hands as long as i've done it you dont get accidents because you know how to handle the tool your using in a safe way. by all means use a vise if you feel more safe that way. only reason i would use a wise and i actually will in a future video im working on now is to get a better framing with the camera where i dont have to worry if the thing im working on is in focus or not.
To all the Tim Taylors out there: Use a vise to drill the holes os the drill will end up in the palm of your hand.
You need the experience of someone like Solar to do it freehanded.
Experience is no defence for being stupid. Just use a vice and be safe about it no mater how much experience you have.