Security Progression and Anchors for Alpine Climbing
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- čas přidán 5. 04. 2020
- This video is meant to show a logical progression of ways in which we can provide and add security for a climbing team in alpine climbing terrain. All information has been vetted by certified AMGA guides and instructors. Enjoy! - Smile Mountain Guides
I really liked this video. Your belay and progression tips are very useful. I think people watching these sometimes forget that stopping a fall is important, but preventing one is even more important. It seemed to me that some of your unanchored belay positions might not stop a fall, but would definitely allow you to help the following climber prevent a fall if they temporarily lose balance or trip.
Thanks for sharing and absolutely agree, the goal is to pick great terrain and manage it well so that the likelihood of a fall is low. A lot of the non-anchored belays are doing just that- preventing a slip from becoming a fall! Glad you enjoyed the video
Super helpful! I especially liked the idea of progression between risk and protection. This relates to many situations in our life!
Awesome video. Found some sketchy approaches while sport climbing, learning all about scrambling and these sort of belay techniques really broadened the activity for me.
Thanks wonderful to read, glad the knowledge is being helpful in a practical way. Keep it up!
Excellent video. Nice to see the progression through increasingly steep terrain.
Thanks for sharing , glad it brought some value and education to your day!
This is a really helpful video! Cheers 👍🏽
Glad you enjoyed the content and it was insightful. Thanks for giving it a shoutout!
Great video and thank you! Where was this filmed? Looks like a great spot!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video! This was filmed in Eldorado Canyon State Park
Great vids! Thanks
Thanks for commenting glad you enjoyed it💯
I think i just falled...in love 🥰
💯❤️
First of all, thank you for the videos. but I have a request from you. It would be better if you take the videos a little closer and use the microphone so that your voice can be heard better. Thank you.
I don't think I could trust myself to protect someone else without me or the climber being attached to some kind of anchor. There is no way I could stop a fall at 2:11 just holding a rope. It seems like it's more to keep the rope tidy as people follow when there is no way that they would fall. I could maybe hold a fall at 3:19 if I was prepared for it, but it sure wouldn't be pleasant and I wouldn't trust myself doing it without some connection to the nice big rock face behind.
Tim Jadeglans thanks for the thoughts and sharing. These techniques are common guiding practices in low class climbing terrain, generally alpine terrain fits this style. The video is attempting to showcase ways to protect yourself and the team in increasingly more complex or harder climbing situations. It most instances the earlier methods shown are to prevent a slip from becoming a full on fall. Notice towards the end, belays are either backed up to gear or the belay is on an anchor. These would be your “ likelihood of a fall is higher “ methods. Hope that helped clear some things up.
What size and length of rope do you recommend for 3rd class and 4th class ? Likely would not be doing any more than low grade 5th class .., thanks for any tips !
40m single rope is often recommended for general lower grade general mountaineering alpine rock. I often use a 30m as I have a couple for ski/glacier use but find it a bit short once you loose length to tie in or using the rope in the anchor.
We agree with Aaron, generally a single rated 40m rope gives you enough length, strength, and durability you’ll want/need in alpine terrain. That said, research of the areas where you’ll be going would provide better perspectives for the actual objective. These again are general. Thanks for asking, hope that helps 💯
Where do you guys guide?
We guide in venues around the Colorado Front, including Eldorado Canyon, & the Flatirons, as well as, the Moab areas of Utah and Indian Creek. Thanks for asking ❤️
Right on I'm in Durango. Been many years since I've been to Indian creek. Camping not to climb tho.....I should rectify that. Stay safe out there.