How to climb trad #2 Gaining Confidence
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- čas přidán 16. 06. 2024
- There's no way round it, climbing trad involves operating with confidence in places where you must not fall. In this video, I discuss the tactics and practical skills I use that underpin that confidence. It's not magic, just training.
My Books on training for climbing:
9 out of 10 climbers www.davemacleod.com/shop/9out...
Make or Break www.davemacleod.com/shop/make...
My Patreon / davemacleod - Sport
Dave Macleod, the Bob Ross of climbing youtube!
Couldnt agree with you more mate.. double like!!
Yes! 💯
Came to write exactly that. Only difference is I'm not near shitting my pants watching bob ross
"Whoopsies, that block is loose. Happy little accident! We'll just make the hole it left a pocket and.... there we go!" 😂
This comment wins!
Listening to Dave’s voice it’s quite easy to delude myself into thinking that soloing would be calm and casual 😂
if done correctly it should be calm!
"How to trad climb" - does it free solo xD
Thats the key: Thrust on your abilities and not the gear.
Thrust in my abilities is why I'm getting married next month
@@sylvernale the most underrated comment on CZcams right now
Dave so eloquently makes philosophy and introspection core components of learning to climb, something that others give less priority to. Thanks for looking out for the long-term success of passionate climbers, Dave.
Anyone else chalk up before watching Dave do these videos 🤣?
Ok the second camera fail actually made me laugh out loud.
This is incredible. Instead of saying: I don't feel any fear when I'm free solo'ing, I was just born that way and blabla (like most free solo'ing climbers do) Dave is actually teaching us how to approach a free solo and how to cope with it step by step. This is for everybody. Thanks Dave!
Best climbing resource on the web! Thank you, Dave!
Always solid stuff. Thanks Dave
Great content Dave! Thank you for spreading the information.
So good! Thank you. Can’t wait for more of this series!
Thank you! I really enjoy your approach to videos and writing.
Thank you! The vast amount of information and inspiration you share with us is highly appreciated :))))
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experiences.
This is a very good video to watch again and agan
Absolutely brilliant video, really interesting to me especially as I've just started out in trad.
Thank you for sharing so much information. Very generous 👍🏽
It's good to go back to basics with these videos! Definetly feel reviewing the foundations of climbing is the best way to ensure a healthy progression into the more serious stuff, came at the perfect time!
Even though I have a great deal of experience, you must never stop learning. Enjoying and listening carefully. Looking forward to the next in the series. Thanks for putting this out there Dave.
Excellent video. As a beginner I’m finding this series helpful. Subscribed
Thanks Dave. I'm moving to Scotland soon and am really looking forward to moving on from leading sport into some trad. This has given me plenty to think about. I find your videos both helpful and inspiring. Thanks again.
This was super helpful, I mainly boulder but struggle with my mental game on taller climbs. Awesome video
Brilliant Dave, this is so invaluable as a young climber. I really appreciate the way you explain everything so calmly and I cant thank you enough for these vids. Keep up the awesome work!!!
Thanks Dave. Im actually just trying to build confidence for lead sport climbing but I still found this really interesting and helpful. Many thanks.
Thank you, brilliant video as always
Very instructive and inspiring. Later this year I'll be getting into lead climbing and this makes me want to try trad soon also. 😀👍🤘
Excellent , thanks for all the videos, downclimbing was a vital part of not only my learning to lead trad but along with much traversing a vital part of learning how to climb. Downclimbing in particular adds a level of confidence , knowing that most of your moves are reversible.Cheers , looking forward to the next video.
Cant quite believe how good this video is
Very useful insights! I only have a dozen or so lead trad climbs under my belt, and I am in the V. diff to severe grade, however scrambling before learning to climb helped, along with roped indoor climbing.. I also boulder at a 6a-6b level, a wee bit higher a 'grade' than what i have lead outdoor. Looking forward to more of your videos!
Great video as always! I’d never really considered down climbing as an option (maybe because I’m young so everything is do or die). Looking forward to seeing your approach to the mid E grades and how you work harder routes
Great video! As I've progressed with my own trad climbing I've centered my days out with new climbers increasingly around risk management and decision making, especially from the ground before emotion might become involved. This video really highlights the approach, and I hope a lot of aspiring trad climbers find this series.
Very helpful, thanks Dave🙏
These really are magnificent videos.
Great video / series. Excellent focus on the real skills of trad climbing, rather than the ropework and gear placements that make up 90% of other instructional videos out there. Will direct anyone interested in getting into trad to your channel!
I love this series!
Thanks a lot for this one Dave. The really funny thing is that despite the lockdowns (no real rock around) I have progressed greatly as a climber, despite very little training. And I'm convinced it comes down to confidence. There is just this feeling of "I'm not gonna fall on this, I can do it easily" which leads to a more well defined movement, lesser waste of energy and greater amount of precognition of a route. It is quite fascinating.
Thanks for continuously adding value to our climbing life Dave! I want to give back somehow and I was thinking about inviting you to Czech traditional sandstone areas and giving you a tour. Climbing here is diverse, unique and definitely memorable. If you are interested, let me know and we will plan it out.
Thank you Dave!!! You're awesome!
Went out on some easy, but high and dirty, boulders (the eagle slabs at Dumby) to practice this yesterday and I found out that I really struggled to remember the moves to down climb. This is great news because it gives me something to work on. Robbie Phillips was there too attempting (and succeeding to o sight an E5 called Chemin de fer. It was really interesting to watch his tactics and how he went up and down the first 3rd of the route a few times to place gear and get a rest.
The best about this video is that it includes everything other videos do not cover at all since most are all about the gear
@davemacleod you rock mate! Big regards from Aus.
Did my first five free solos yesterday on easy routes the downclimbing method became super comforting on one crux. It was more fun and secure than I expected
I did a 6-pitch 5.8 out here in Colorado today. This video was in my head the whole way up-- I found it very helpful... I placed a lot less gear (which is good for me) and never felt really gripped the way I often do on these longer climbs.
The tension watching that - great lessons about preparing.
As many have said this is a great video, with some interesting points, and it takes a totally different approach to teaching trad climbing. I totally understand why this approach is taken, and I really get that it is about 'Knowing' at so many different levels. My concern is that a beginner will look at this and think, no ropes ... that's the way to go. It's not the words, they're all right. It's the visual message. As long as a newbie really gets what Dave is saying, it's all good. And as he says in the first video in the series, this is about another approach in parallel with others.
0 tolerance, what a a great video. I just have like 6 months doing sport climbing, 10b on sight and sending 10d with a few solos for fun (thats how I discovered darwin dixit send from 2008) Im loving your approach and all your videos, Im not into trad yet but I feel this applies to many situations, wonderful display of technique and climbing mindset!
mental game is something I really need to work on. I don't trad climb or even really sport climb, but many times I get shaky when bouldering on anything taller than 10 ft or so. These videos are great and super helpful
"I do these videos and apprieciate the likes so these videos find their way in front of more people." Thats why you're an amazing man :)
For more competent climbers about to attempt a climb near their limit, a solo of an easier route helps them to focus and assess how they feel that day. Dave pulls off a bit of grass. This is useful to climbers who will come after you and helps keep the climb accessible.
I thought it was a bit crazy at first.. But I've been following this advice and it's working a treat! My head game has gone leaps and bounds in a short period, and gone from capping myself on some severes to starting to comfortably onsight hvs 😁 thanks for the great vids Dave!
Thank you “Mr Macleod”… It is very pleasing that your videos have a human side, and that you hadn’t hidden it. Your equipment failed, you corrected it, and carried on regardless 👏. A very informative video, with an excellent summary. Regards, Richard A Needham
Brilliant Dave.
Excellent video.... thank you
Good stuff. Sound pretentious, but if a newer climber asks me about staying safe while leading traditionally protected routes, I tell them, don't use hope as a substitute for skill and planning; if you do you're gambling, not climbing.
I don't do trad climbing, just sport, but in my local crag there are a lot of long, slabby routes with super small holds and footholds, which are not physically demanding but quite technical and scary, because it seems there is nothing to pull on. I think that seeing how you move and manage the routes in this video is very useful to understand how one could improve in this kind of climbing!
Great video.
Order of watching Dave's videos:
1. Get excited there's a new video
2. Like video
3. Watch video
4. Feel vindicated in liking video
Recognize pinnacle crag - confidence wall was my girlfriends first trad climb!
About downclimbing:
What has helped a lot for me was practicing that. Gym, but also outdoors on easy gear route. I'd typically protect a bit tighther than I otherwise might. Just as we develop an instinct of onsight climbing, we do for "onsight" downclimbing. So you may not even have to memorize the moves so much, you're proefficient enough to read the rock on the way down nearly as well as on the way up.
This was fantastic
Really good videos (all #1, 2 & 3). It did cone across quite shocking to hear beginners being encouraged to free solo easy stuff afew years ago when my experience was less but he's absolutely right & it made me evaluate my own performance even though I was regularly on hvs leads by the point. You do get into situations beyond your expectation & this isn't a game. If you're leading this is especially relevant.
Has the video you mentioned at the end, about climbing an E1, E2, E3 and E4 come out yet ? Really enjoyed the video. Cheers
Thanks for the video, its fantastic, why not a video version of 9 of 10 climbers makes the same mistakes? Thanks for your lessons!!
I don't trad climb, but I've used this in sport climbing on scary routes, that I'm not comfortable to fall on, ever since I saw it two years ago. Needless to say, it's been useful advice.
It gets dark in Scotland at 8 o' clock! Had to type it out so I could remember.
i especially like how you emphasized that the routes were "way bellow your level", and that it is very important to be that way. Even if you do 90% of the route, you still want to be able to downclimb if the need arises.
Brilliant suggestions, I am terrible at down climbing, I will try out the tick marks for the feet for down climbing as it’s very difficult to see the footholds on the way back down. Looking forward to the next in the series.
Downclimbing is a lynchpin of trad, and essential for unprotected climbing. My training consistently involves 50% or more of down or lateral moves.
Please clean off the tick marks when you are done. If left behind they spoil the climbing experience for the next person.
@@BrettGilmour In Scotland, the rain takes care of that (as it likely did in this case)
Yes Dave MacLeod
Great. Thanks.
Out of curiosity, what video equipment do you use? Ignoring the fails, the auto tracking gimble thinggymabob seems good!
Amazing Video Dave! I can relate to what you said at the end personally... I've never thought I had much ego, until it "caught up to me" and I hit the ground from 10 meters on an 'easy' 5.11 trad route in Squamish last year. Lesson learned... I had to take a serious step backward and re-evaluate what I was trying to achieve.
On a side note, what auto-track gimbal are you using? I thought you had someone filming you, but it sounds like you are actually just using an auto-track?
Ooft, hope the ground was not too hard on that occasion. Glad to hear it looked like someone was filming me. It was the Ronin SC on active track. First time using it. Hopefully I can get it working more smoothly.
Hey I'm in squam too. What route was that?
Something at penny lane?
The camera work was as good as a cameraman; what setup are you using please ?
Haha good to hear. Sony A7III on a Ronin SC (active track).
Easy peasy. If only i had some of that chalk, i could do that no problem.
Hi Dave. Do you have any plans to cover taking practice falls onto trad gear? You mentioned building up to this in your first book and I’d be really interested to see how to arrange things safely and progress through different types of fall.
Same here, loving the videos and reading the book. Would definitely be interested in watching a video on this.
I've been reading your book and the section on fear of falling just recently and I'd love to see a video of how to do it safely!
Do it in a gym, typically as a leader the mentality is “no falls”
Dave are you going to be making any more of these videos?
Dave, if you come up with a simple logo for your brand. Id buy a t-shirt and a jumper with DML logo! Like your mountain equipment gear
Just a couple questions, can you use a single rope for trad or does it have to be either half or twin ropes, and also if you've climbed up a trad route and there's no ancours at the top do you leave equipment to be able to abseil off ?! If so that's a lot of kit to buy just to leave up there
Either half ropes or single is fine for trad, half ropes help if gear is spread across the crag, single if it’s mostly in a line. For abseiling, you can just leave some cord and perhaps a maillon
Awesome thank you very much
Could you talk about falling on trad gear and falling in general. A friend of mine is quite an experienced trad climber and told me quite a chilling tale of a nasty fall that ripped gear out from the bottom (belayer flew up in the air taking 2 nuts with him) and he ripped one piece of gear on the way down to be left dangling on a single piece of protection. I have practiced placing gear and seconded to look at taking gear out but there are surely many other factors to consider in terms of protecting yourself safely. The other question I guess is, should you climb something where there is a chance you may fall?
yes I will be addressing this and have a whole section of my book devoted to it already. Only you can answer whether you should climb something where you may fall. If you are happy with the calculated risk at any given moment, then yes. If not then no.
It’s best to have a multidirectional peice like a cam as a first peice so it doesn’t shift when the belayer comes up
I'm male and just getting into trad leading so thanks for the warning and advice Dave
So this is different from free soloing? Seems same to me. I always though trad climbing involved some form of gear protection placement in case of an unexpected failure?
Thats right, they are exactly the same on sections of climbs which have poor, or no protection. Hence the video.
where in Scotland is this?
"How to trad climb." Proceeds to free solo...
how often do you leave scotland for climbing?
A couple of times a year. But usually for long trips. None this year since I was doing a degree.
Fun video and all but my take away is what? If I'm nervous trad leading I should go free soloing?
I got a few takeaways from this.
- Plan ahead
- Learn how to down climb
- Get comfortable in situations which often make new climbers nervous by continually assessing what I’m going to call your ‘outs’ - the safest way to proceed, whether that be downclimbing, escaping sidewards, staying where you are, etc.
- Be very precise and deliberate
- Practice a lot on climbs well below your physical limit
- Tick footholds with chalk so you can see footholds when downclimbing (and upclimbing)
I think he used soloing because he’s good at trad and wanted to create ‘no fall’ situations to illustrate what he’s talking about.
Edit: I mean, it doesn’t tell you anything about placing protection so I get where you’re coming from
@@thetrickster42he’s got a great video on getting confident placing gear
Concur.down-climbing or the ability. To reverse sub max moves.
I had to put on a harness just to watch this.
Anyone know what jacket Dave is wearing?
This one. I basically live in it.
www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/products/kinesis-jacket?_pos=8&_sid=9839becc0&_ss=r
sounds good but if one hold cracks at the wrong moment you are dead or severly injured
Test the hold, if it’s suspicious in any way, make sure you have your other limbs backing it up or find something else.
*How to free solo*
What’s the location in this video?
www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/pinnacle_crag-2705
I can see how this all relates to trad climbing, however I have to say that I really am keen to try more free soloing now. Seems like a really good approach :)
The key points dissapear before i can read them.
I think my boots are too small, every time i watch a climbing video my toes hurt
I understand this try not to fall approach for trad climbing. But this leaves the impression that you can not protect yourself in some trad climbs with gear so you can take a fall. And thus makes every trad climb as risky as free soloing.
That impression is correct, but your conclusion isn't. It depends on the route. Some are as safe as sport climbs given a competent leader (one who knows how to place gear). Others are unprotected and you may as well solo them.
Another important consideration is the quality of the protection. A leader needs to assess whether the gear is bomber at one end of the scale, or only there for psychological purposes at the other. A skill that can only properly be acquired through experience.
There are moments in most trad climbs I’ve lead where it would be a really, really bad idea to fall
Zen-climbing
dangerous
This video is not how to trad, this is how to free solo.
If you climb trad, you will be in a free solo position at some point, not falling apart when that happens is critical. How do you learn to do that?
This is the real traditional climbing, before rope and gear traditional 😂
You should try to focus the camera so it shows depth at the level you are climbing
czcams.com/video/xB-3Q-rcTQs/video.html Am I crazy or does that left foothold move?
Naaahh it was solid.
If i ever to free solo tutorials: Stop me please. This is just not morally right
Ummmmm…..