Outstanding video. No one on CZcams can touch Fenner for his creativity and the unusual jobs he does in front of the camera. He bores a tapered hole into a steering knuckle held in place by welding the knuckle to a machined fixture, then figures out the taper through trial-and-error. Bravo.
I love videos like this one, where it's all about the right handling of the machines and a good portion of ingenuity. A lot of the "art" of surviving day to day as a craftsman means to know how to use what is at your disposal: I thinks it's really interesting how you find a way to fasten even the most oddly shaped parts in your machines.
If you put aside all of the great work done by Keith and the great videos I would still give it a thumbs up just for the pledge of allegiance ! His heart is in the right place!
Pure genius on developing the part holder... I had not heard of 7018 fasteners before this morning.... Everyday you learn something, don't count toward days on earth...
I learned something watching this video, about myself. I looked at this problem and said "There ain't no effing way! I tend to be negative. You approached it by saying, "How can I fixture this?" My lesson is I need to counciously be more positive, be inventive...
Me too. In my mind I could see a tubular spacer on center and a right angle for the other threaded end mounted to a faceplate. Another option could be to machine the rod end taper to match the hole by 3 jawing a round blank drilled and threaded extended to provide crossfeed clearance. A plywood disc could keep the threaded end from contacting the tool post.
@@waynespyker5731 The way Keith teaches (I'm certain he knows this trick) is remarkably effective. Rather than tell you how he was going to mount this arm with its complex angles, he leads you through it by walking the talk. This lets you think about the problem, right along with the master. Fewer words, more action. I like that!
I'm also a person that find flaws in plans too, but given my situation, usually lots of broken stuff and I'm far from a decent supply place, I just HAVE to get it done, so I guess I'm good at figuring out the best of the bad setups. I think I'd have given a try to clamping it in the 4 jaw, and only using 3, just to avoid having to weld on it at all.. you're only taking really light cuts so that could work
I don't have a gap bed lathe but I do have a 10" rotary table with an 8 inch independent 4 jaw chuck that I bought just for use with the rotary table. So, another way to tackle making that tapered bore would be to fixture it with the same welded rod method that you used but mount it in a chuck that's mounted on a rotary table, then tilt the rotary table to match the taper and mill it with a vertical mill. Like they say "Where there's a will, there's a way" :-D Glad to see you getting back to your old self again, Keith!! :-) Joe
I always enjoy your setups. For the bore, once you have the part engaged, don't touch the cross slide. Advancing the carriage is a 1:1 ratio on the depth of your feature. Need the part to go 1/2" deeper, just move the carriage 1/2" deeper. Bullet proof.
Hey Joe, glad i read through the comments because i was going to say the very same thing. And to show i wasn't just copying you i told a chap on youtube who was making surface grinder wheel hubs that trick about a month ago.
I've always used the cross slide but this sounds a lot easier as long as the compound has enough travel.. I'll have to try this one, my big lathe has about a foot travel on the compound so it should work good on it
I wish other automotive You Tube developers would see this content. Lots of difficulty mating tapers of drag link/tie rods with early Ford spindles. Most simply clearance drill a straight hole through the spindle or pittman arm. Taper reamers exist, buy one or take your parts to a machine shop for the proper fix. The taper is there for safety of everyone on the highway.
I remember it in the 70s (for which it stands) If it was only about how it is now, I don't think anyone would. I still do. My Dad told me to put my hand over my Heart. It does mean more doing it that way.
I probably have a comment here from 2 years ago when this video first published but it can’t be said enough so, Thank you Keith for putting out your flag and leading us in the Pledge of Allegiance to our great nation.
Forty five years as a truck mechanic and I have never seen a completely round steering arm stud. The tapers seem standard. Stud diameter is different. Drag links use larger studs than tie rods. Sometimes the replacement ends will have too long of a tapered stud. They make shims to take up the length. Most mechanics would jam those nuts down with the air gun and make the job miserable for the next guy. Those studs can really seat in there. I was taught early on to oil the nut, standard bolt torque, then the next slot to align the cotter pin hole.
Why does everybody on CZcams think you’ll get some horrible skin cancer from 20 seconds of welding? Yes, UV from the arc is harmful, but two tacks aren’t going to kill you. Are you planning to burn more than half a rod? Maybe put a shirt on. It ain’t that difficult.
Great to see you back working in the shop Keith now you're back in production. As always your experience with setting up odd shaped items like this one makes it look quick and easy .
Besides the part fixturing cleverness it was nice that the boring bar didn't seem to have any chatter and was giving nice little chips. Excellent result
I enjoy watching everything you do Keith. But the number one thing I love about your channel is your patriotism and you pledge to our flag!!!!!! Thanks a million Sir!!!!
Could have been a knuckle buster! Nice of you to take care of the landlord. I usually have to put tie rod bored back to stock when they are wollowed out. Never have gotten to just make one bigger. Someday! 😎
Great job, Keith, you certainly got 'er done! Lots of automotive applications use a 7 degree taper so 3-1/2 degrees is normally a good start point. Not many home lathes would swing that big arm like that. Glad to see you looking happier. Mart.
Mr Keith, I've done a lot of strange and goofy (but safe) face plate setups over the years in this trade, but I've never used a 7018 face plate before. That's gettin' 'er done, pal. Thanks for another great vid. Really happy to have you back these past few weeks. Always glad when my notifications say Fenner has another vid up! Best regards, fellow chip slinger. Dean
Always fun to see the gap come out. I never would've thought about that particular fastening method, nice creative fix there! Looking forward to the next video :D
Amazing job. This had to be one of the scariest parts I have ever seen turned. It looked like it just wanted to grab ya and wrap ya around the spindle.
For those who don't know the best way to get one of those off is to hit the end of the pitman arm with a large hammer or sledge not the ball joint. A good firm rap and the ball joint will fall out. I assume that's why it's cast with that thick pad on the end. Great work by Keith on this, not too much weld to weaken it and just the right amount of polishing. He was the mechanic's best friend on this job.
Good start Keith , I'm about 6 miles from RAF Lakenheath and have enjoyed many nights in the company of the 'Bolars' in their squadron 'pub' , have even had the honour of a session in the F-15 simulator on base so was delighted to see the guys and gals getting mentioned ... :-)
You'll love this one Keith! Years ago I had a Camaro with manual steering that I converted to power. The Pitman arm from the power steering box didn't match the one from the manual. Yeah I eventually redid the whole steering, idlers, center link, etc with MOOG parts. This was a temporary *patch*. I cut the Pitman arms apart and welded them together. You know you can weld forged steel (but not ideal). Worked until I did it *right*. Alignment was dead on. I still have that arm hanging in my wall...
@@tracylemme1375 I wasn't challenging Keith's welding choice. Didn't think to preheat at the time but I DID weld prep and run multiple passes to get full pen. Granted I didn't run the car hard or do severe cornering in the short time before doing it the right way...
Very slick job Keith, nice bit of lateral thinking to achieve the end result, those electrical fasteners are a wonderful invention! No room for a washer under the nut but you play the hand you get dealt!
Hi Keith, well it looks like you are fitting in to that new shop nicely! I swear, I think you could chuck up anything! That is one of the reasons I really enjoy watching. The set-ups are EVERYTHING!!!
Good video and a nicely done repair!! I have a similar repair that needs to be done on my 15,000 pound forklift. In my case the taper in the knuckle is worn out and needs to have a bushing installed and then taper bored. Fortunately I have a Tree taper boring head that I bought a few years ago at the Cabin Fever Expo in PA. At the time I didn't need it but the price was right. Now I'm glad that I have it but it was interesting to see a method that can be used when a taper boring head isn't in your tool box.
Looks like the arm may have been thicker than the one that end was designed for, based on the way that boot fit. But still, that's a nice refit. I work on trucks and have seen several cases where the parts are no longer available, creating a potentially expensive job. Good video to start my day.
@@tonyrmathis I've had my hands on a lot of these over the years. What I meant was the joint is closer to the pad than they normally mount up. That one ended up really close to the bottom of the arm. Shouldn't be an issue though as long as the boot will hold grease.
@@brucelott3583 It did appear that the hole was a bit off center along the long axis of the pitman arm. If you're talking about the depth of the taper it looked identical to International 9400i I put king pin bushings and tie rod ends on just a couple of weeks ago. About a 1/2 inch gap between the socket and the arm. I'm probably projecting with my comments on how to remove the ball joint from these having ruined many tie-rod ends before I realized what i was doing wrong but I still see trained mechanics making the same mistake.
@@Landrew0 More like they had a failure after a particularly horrible crash and decided to beef it up to avoid possible liability claims later or the larger size was more widely used so they went to it to decrease variability. They have planned obsoescense down to a science on big trucks. So precise in fact that within weeks or months of financing and warranties expiring you can plan on multiple failures. It's gotten to the point for us that when we pay one off we immediately pull it in and go though it from front to back. Half of my fleet has had everything replaced with the exception of frame rails, axles, cab shell and interior wiring. Do that and they're good for another 6-10 years with breakdown rates similar to new trucks.
I made that same modification 20 years ago, by making a plug with the same taper, heating the end with the torch and hammering the plug into the hole until I had the desired fit.
Thanks Keith. I would have never thought of that approach. I learned today. As an aside, there are tapered reamers specifically for that job, but probably cost prohibitive for a one of!
Bravo Zulu Mr F. 👍nice job. I have said this before, I really enjoy your oddball repair episodes. I am guilty of welding stuff to parts to hold in the lathe too! In any event that is a outstanding get 'er done repair to keep going and well worth the time, Obsolete parts are becoming more commonplace these days for perfectly serviceable stuff....sigh.. Cheers. Edit: Oh I almost forget. Steve Bartons Solid Rock Machine Shop boring bars rock!
That's really impressive given the fact that so many guys won't touch something with a lot of tedious measuring and fitting and they figure they can't charge for that time
Nice setup Keith. I was always told never to weld in a lathe in case you got an arc through the bearings. Now I am older and understand much more about electricity, I realise I must have been told it by some guy who just didn't want me welding on his lathe...... Lol. Great job, well done. Jon
I was always taught the same but it really depends where the earth is located compared to where your welding, the current travels between the earth and rod (path of least resistance) so as long as there isn't bearings between the earth location and the rod it's not a problem
When that rod end is torqued, it will go even farther in as it stretches the hole. I have a tapered reamer that I used on many trucks in the 70s because it was decided that the rod ends needed to be larger.
One of the skills that set you apart from the other CZcams machinists is the ability to work with irregular parts and devise work holding methods that gitterdone. My respects to you.
My favorite fastener too Kieth,,,E7018=lathe dog, driver-fastener. My boss did a similar job in the lathe, when I was a trainee in 74...fore shame though he used E6013 back then, he was a machinist more than Machinist-Welder like you and I lol!
"Holidays?" LOL....it's only hitting on tuesdays! I'm sure You get it fixed anyway - like You always do! Thanks for sharing! I'm learning as I watch every second of Your videos!
Hi Mr. Fenner! This is a clear show why you can title your self as an excellent machinist!👍👌 Very interresting to watch and follow you channel. Keep up the good work👌👌👌
Welding to the arbor. Hah! That's a step up from Clickspring's and NYC-CNC's superglue fixturing. Good job. Given the nature of steering assemblies, getting this location exactly correct is not critical (but it's good to try). Being off on one axis affects a many-inch radius (steering arm) by a few thousandths; being off on the other axis can be adjusted with the tie-rod length
Outstanding video. No one on CZcams can touch Fenner for his creativity and the unusual jobs he does in front of the camera. He bores a tapered hole into a steering knuckle held in place by welding the knuckle to a machined fixture, then figures out the taper through trial-and-error. Bravo.
If my trig is right, it looks like he called it perfectly, 3/4 inch per foot taper! 3.58 degrees
I’d recommend to use a cnc for those types of jobs. It’s a simple helical conical interpolation. No problem.
I love videos like this one, where it's all about the right handling of the machines and a good portion of ingenuity. A lot of the "art" of surviving day to day as a craftsman means to know how to use what is at your disposal: I thinks it's really interesting how you find a way to fasten even the most oddly shaped parts in your machines.
The Post Apocalyptic Inventor glad to see TPAI in here! Two great channels in one place!
I would have rotated the lathe and kept the part steady!
If you put aside all of the great work done by Keith and the great videos I would still give it a thumbs up just for the pledge of allegiance ! His heart is in the right place!
Pure genius on developing the part holder... I had not heard of 7018 fasteners before this morning.... Everyday you learn something, don't count toward days on earth...
Starting to hear the joy come back to your voice Keith. So happy you are getting settled back in and are ready to teach us again!
"We're using 7018 fasteners today". I laughed so hard my wife thought something was wrong. Thanks for showing us a creative way to setup a unique job.
I learned something watching this video, about myself. I looked at this problem and said "There ain't no effing way! I tend to be negative. You approached it by saying, "How can I fixture this?" My lesson is I need to counciously be more positive, be inventive...
Me too. In my mind I could see a tubular spacer on center and a right angle for the other threaded end mounted to a faceplate.
Another option could be to machine the rod end taper to match the hole by 3 jawing a round blank drilled and threaded extended to provide crossfeed clearance. A plywood disc could keep the threaded end from contacting the tool post.
Those hot metal glue sticks are really useful...
I would have just calculated the taper, and stuck it in my wire edm machine, this was a useful lesson for my lathe at home though.
@@waynespyker5731 The way Keith teaches (I'm certain he knows this trick) is remarkably effective. Rather than tell you how he was going to mount this arm with its complex angles, he leads you through it by walking the talk. This lets you think about the problem, right along with the master. Fewer words, more action. I like that!
I'm also a person that find flaws in plans too, but given my situation, usually lots of broken stuff and I'm far from a decent supply place, I just HAVE to get it done, so I guess I'm good at figuring out the best of the bad setups.
I think I'd have given a try to clamping it in the 4 jaw, and only using 3, just to avoid having to weld on it at all.. you're only taking really light cuts so that could work
It's great when I find an episode I haven't seen! Nice set up! I learn a lot watching your videos Keith. Thanks!
I can't tell you how good it feels to have you back. Another fantastic job. Cheers.
I don't have a gap bed lathe but I do have a 10" rotary table with an 8 inch independent 4 jaw chuck that I bought just for use with the rotary table.
So, another way to tackle making that tapered bore would be to fixture it with the same welded rod method that you used but mount it in a chuck that's mounted on a rotary table, then tilt the rotary table to match the taper and mill it with a vertical mill.
Like they say "Where there's a will, there's a way" :-D
Glad to see you getting back to your old self again, Keith!! :-)
Joe
@Richies Restorations
Dang, why didn't I think of that one, I must be slipping Lol :-D
I always enjoy your setups. For the bore, once you have the part engaged, don't touch the cross slide. Advancing the carriage is a 1:1 ratio on the depth of your feature. Need the part to go 1/2" deeper, just move the carriage 1/2" deeper. Bullet proof.
Great point, short bore so total cross side travel wouldn't have been an issue. ;{)
Hey Joe, glad i read through the comments because i was going to say the very same thing. And to show i wasn't just copying you i told a chap on youtube who was making surface grinder wheel hubs that trick about a month ago.
I have done this countless times in more than 50 years
I've always used the cross slide but this sounds a lot easier as long as the compound has enough travel.. I'll have to try this one, my big lathe has about a foot travel on the compound so it should work good on it
@@KeithFenner Could I ask for your email address? Thanks Havelka
Were using 7018 fasteners today.. hahaha nice job Keith
When I tell a new guy to get a few 7018 fasteners it gets them almost every time. The one that got it is one of the few that's still here lol 😂
Nice work Sensai. Happy to see someone thats not afraid to be openly patriotic. I salute you and Old Glory.
That was cool. I never would have thought to work hold that way. Neat tip which is one of the reasons I love your videos Mr. Fenner. Thank you.
I wish other automotive You Tube developers would see this content. Lots of difficulty mating tapers of drag link/tie rods with early Ford spindles. Most simply clearance drill a straight hole through the spindle or pittman arm. Taper reamers exist, buy one or take your parts to a machine shop for the proper fix. The taper is there for safety of everyone on the highway.
I do appreciate your Flag and the Pledge. In my day in grade school, we started each day with the Pledge. ( 1950s, into the 60s.🇺🇸🇺🇸)
I remember it in the 70s (for which it stands) If it was only about how it is
now, I don't think anyone would. I still do. My Dad told me to put my hand
over my Heart. It does mean more doing it that way.
Very impressive, Keith. You have my respect as a machinist and patriot. I pray the US survives this pandemic and recover from all this chaos.
I probably have a comment here from 2 years ago when this video first published but it can’t be said enough so,
Thank you Keith for putting out your flag and leading us in the Pledge of Allegiance to our great nation.
Forty five years as a truck mechanic and I have never seen a completely round steering arm stud. The tapers seem standard. Stud diameter is different. Drag links use larger studs than tie rods. Sometimes the replacement ends will have too long of a tapered stud. They make shims to take up the length.
Most mechanics would jam those nuts down with the air gun and make the job miserable for the next guy. Those studs can really seat in there. I was taught early on to oil the nut, standard bolt torque, then the next slot to align the cotter pin hole.
Hello Keith, great video.real slick setup on the lathe,ingenious...thanks for sharing.
Talk about thinking outside the box, Keith you are one INGENIOUS man !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Epic Memento! I was a proud member of the 48th Fighter Wing, in the 492nd sister squadron, the 493rd Grim Reapers. What an awesome gift.
Shorts and short sleeves for welding - way to go Keith !! 😊
Nothing says manly man like welding naked.
@@OnCNCcom Only one thing I can think of is best. Cooking bacon, in a open skillet, while naked
@@dadillen5902 But you'll miss out of the suntan that comes with welding naked.
free Tan
Why does everybody on CZcams think you’ll get some horrible skin cancer from 20 seconds of welding? Yes, UV from the arc is harmful, but two tacks aren’t going to kill you. Are you planning to burn more than half a rod? Maybe put a shirt on. It ain’t that difficult.
A great example of fixturing and ingenuity. I always learn something. Glad to see you're back in the swing of things! Pun intended!
Great to see you back working in the shop Keith now you're back in production. As always your experience with setting up odd shaped items like this one makes it look quick and easy .
So nice to have you back Keith, regards from across the pond,
Besides the part fixturing cleverness it was nice that the boring bar didn't seem to have any chatter and was giving nice little chips. Excellent result
I enjoy watching everything you do Keith. But the number one thing I love about your channel is your patriotism and you pledge to our flag!!!!!! Thanks a million Sir!!!!
Could have been a knuckle buster! Nice of you to take care of the landlord. I usually have to put tie rod bored back to stock when they are wollowed out. Never have gotten to just make one bigger. Someday! 😎
Great job, Keith, you certainly got 'er done! Lots of automotive applications use a 7 degree taper so 3-1/2 degrees is normally a good start point. Not many home lathes would swing that big arm like that. Glad to see you looking happier. Mart.
Thanks Keith for showing the World that although politicians struggle to make anything work, Americans can still Get'er Done!!
Mr Keith, I've done a lot of strange and goofy (but safe) face plate setups over the years in this trade, but I've never used a 7018 face plate before. That's gettin' 'er done, pal.
Thanks for another great vid. Really happy to have you back these past few weeks. Always glad when my notifications say Fenner has another vid up!
Best regards, fellow chip slinger.
Dean
Nicely done Mr. Fenner, another testiment to your skill and knowledge Keith.
Very slick way to mount an otherwise difficult piece.
Bob Ross of machining. Out fucking standing job Keith.
Good to see you doing job in the shop again!
Really slick way of holding the part.....never would have thought of it, thanks
Always fun to see the gap come out.
I never would've thought about that particular fastening method, nice creative fix there!
Looking forward to the next video :D
Awesome work Keith. I always learn something watching your videos. I appreciate you sharing you knowledge. Thank you for sharing.
Great setup tutorial. I'm no machinist. But I like seeing the "how I could figure it out". Thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it
Amazing job. This had to be one of the scariest parts I have ever seen turned. It looked like it just wanted to grab ya and wrap ya around the spindle.
I like that style of fastener , one size fits all , Metric & Imperial ! Cheers .
For those who don't know the best way to get one of those off is to hit the end of the pitman arm with a large hammer or sledge not the ball joint. A good firm rap and the ball joint will fall out. I assume that's why it's cast with that thick pad on the end. Great work by Keith on this, not too much weld to weaken it and just the right amount of polishing. He was the mechanic's best friend on this job.
I could watch this all day! Thanks Keith!
Good start Keith , I'm about 6 miles from RAF Lakenheath and have enjoyed many nights in the company of the 'Bolars' in their squadron 'pub' , have even had the honour of a session in the F-15 simulator on base so was delighted to see the guys and gals getting mentioned ... :-)
You'll love this one Keith! Years ago I had a Camaro with manual steering that I converted to power. The Pitman arm from the power steering box didn't match the one from the manual. Yeah I eventually redid the whole steering, idlers, center link, etc with MOOG parts. This was a temporary *patch*. I cut the Pitman arms apart and welded them together. You know you can weld forged steel (but not ideal). Worked until I did it *right*. Alignment was dead on. I still have that arm hanging in my wall...
Forged steel is usually quite weldable. Depending on alloy it is advisable to preheat. Mr. Fenner was fine in his choice of welding rod.
@@tracylemme1375 I wasn't challenging Keith's welding choice. Didn't think to preheat at the time but I DID weld prep and run multiple passes to get full pen. Granted I didn't run the car hard or do severe cornering in the short time before doing it the right way...
Great setup and delivery bud. Well done old friend.
Well done! I think I was getting a little hypnotized watching that thing spin 🤣... must watch more Keith Fenner 😳
Always amazing to watch you work, all your Technique tricks go way beyond everyone else. Sure glad to have you back online.....
Thank you very much!
A simple job with high difficulty!, Only skilled need apply 🤔.
Great vlog, innovative set-up Keith.
Thanks for sharing, regards John.
Yet another piece of knowledge you have shown me over the years.. I like the setup you made to put that taperd bore into that part.
Very cool vid.. great to see things rolling again and great setup for the Flag 👍🏻🇺🇸👍🏻🇺🇸👍🏻🇺🇸👍🏻
Well done Keith , that is as close as you can get to the ultimate down and dirty set up. Enjoyed very much, good to see you back on video, cheers!
Very slick job Keith, nice bit of lateral thinking to achieve the end result, those electrical fasteners are a wonderful invention! No room for a washer under the nut but you play the hand you get dealt!
Hi Keith, well it looks like you are fitting in to that new shop nicely! I swear, I think you could chuck up anything! That is one of the reasons I really enjoy watching. The set-ups are EVERYTHING!!!
Thanks 👍
Good video and a nicely done repair!! I have a similar repair that needs to be done on my 15,000 pound forklift. In my case the taper in the knuckle is worn out and needs to have a bushing installed and then taper bored. Fortunately I have a Tree taper boring head that I bought a few years ago at the Cabin Fever Expo in PA. At the time I didn't need it but the price was right. Now I'm glad that I have it but it was interesting to see a method that can be used when a taper boring head isn't in your tool box.
We do the emery paper trick too but use a long cotter pin.
Back in the day, mid '30's we heated the eye and pounded in the desired taper rod end, popped it out and there you go.Your way seems way cleaner.
This video gave me an idea for quick change mill tooling you knock out with the pickle fork. love it get'er done.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Like the off the street jobs, never know what you'll get. Very nice setup, thinking outside the box. :)
Thanks for watching!
Looks like the arm may have been thicker than the one that end was designed for, based on the way that boot fit. But still, that's a nice refit. I work on trucks and have seen several cases where the parts are no longer available, creating a potentially expensive job. Good video to start my day.
That thick pad is so you can hit it for disassembly without damaging the hole.
@@tonyrmathis I've had my hands on a lot of these over the years. What I meant was the joint is closer to the pad than they normally mount up. That one ended up really close to the bottom of the arm. Shouldn't be an issue though as long as the boot will hold grease.
@@brucelott3583
It did appear that the hole was a bit off center along the long axis of the pitman arm. If you're talking about the depth of the taper it looked identical to International 9400i I put king pin bushings and tie rod ends on just a couple of weeks ago. About a 1/2 inch gap between the socket and the arm.
I'm probably projecting with my comments on how to remove the ball joint from these having ruined many tie-rod ends before I realized what i was doing wrong but I still see trained mechanics making the same mistake.
Change the taper and force the customer to buy a new one. Planned obsolescence.
@@Landrew0
More like they had a failure after a particularly horrible crash and decided to beef it up to avoid possible liability claims later or the larger size was more widely used so they went to it to decrease variability. They have planned obsoescense down to a science on big trucks. So precise in fact that within weeks or months of financing and warranties expiring you can plan on multiple failures. It's gotten to the point for us that when we pay one off we immediately pull it in and go though it from front to back. Half of my fleet has had everything replaced with the exception of frame rails, axles, cab shell and interior wiring. Do that and they're good for another 6-10 years with breakdown rates similar to new trucks.
Keith, I have been doing it wrong, never thought of welding odd taper jobs to a fixture, Thanks a bunch.
I like the way you think outside the box on some jobs. It's great. I'm holding out for a shop tour soon.
I made that same modification 20 years ago, by making a plug with the same taper, heating the end with the torch and hammering the plug into the hole until I had the desired fit.
Thanks Keith. I would have never thought of that approach. I learned today. As an aside, there are tapered reamers specifically for that job, but probably cost prohibitive for a one of!
Great Introduction, been a veteran I appreciate peoples support and respect to the American flag.
Always a pleasure to watch you work Keith another top video
Bravo Zulu Mr F. 👍nice job. I have said this before, I really enjoy your oddball repair episodes. I am guilty of welding stuff to parts to hold in the lathe too! In any event that is a outstanding get 'er done repair to keep going and well worth the time, Obsolete parts are becoming more commonplace these days for perfectly serviceable stuff....sigh.. Cheers. Edit: Oh I almost forget. Steve Bartons Solid Rock Machine Shop boring bars rock!
Love the flag and the back-story behind it!
Thanks for turning down the sound on the three phaser, us earphone users appreciate.
Nice job! I like your 7018 fastener system that is awesome!
Keith's back into it and he's smiling, great to see. Cheers from Australia
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. That nail must have been bloody sore when you cooked it.
That's really impressive given the fact that so many guys won't touch something with a lot of tedious measuring and fitting and they figure they can't charge for that time
Good to have you back to watch a master work his magic.
Nice setup Keith. I was always told never to weld in a lathe in case you got an arc through the bearings. Now I am older and understand much more about electricity, I realise I must have been told it by some guy who just didn't want me welding on his lathe...... Lol. Great job, well done. Jon
I was always taught the same but it really depends where the earth is located compared to where your welding, the current travels between the earth and rod (path of least resistance) so as long as there isn't bearings between the earth location and the rod it's not a problem
When that rod end is torqued, it will go even farther in as it stretches the hole. I have a tapered reamer that I used on many trucks in the 70s because it was decided that the rod ends needed to be larger.
Fantastic tip about welding the arm for machining . 👍
Great work Keith use of the machinery available a lot of younger machinists would walk away from this job,
great atitude giving it a go. Cheers Ian.
He knew he could do it, just a matter of how, that is the difference of minds.
Fantastic way of work holding thanks I never thought of doing it that way
One of the skills that set you apart from the other CZcams machinists is the ability to work with irregular parts and devise work holding methods that gitterdone. My respects to you.
Wow, thanks!
Yea! Morning coffee with Keith. Perfect! 👏
My favorite fastener too Kieth,,,E7018=lathe dog, driver-fastener. My boss did a similar job in the lathe, when I was a trainee in 74...fore shame though he used E6013 back then, he was a machinist more than Machinist-Welder like you and I lol!
Nice tie rod modification. Good luck with the new shop.
Great setup ! Loved the video !!! Thank you so much !
The flag looks great god bless our country and you David Dooley Bettendorf Iowa
You never cease to impress me!
great job , i am happy you are back
As usual you make everything look easy..... Great job mate.
"Holidays?" LOL....it's only hitting on tuesdays!
I'm sure You get it fixed anyway - like You always do! Thanks for sharing! I'm learning as I watch every second of Your videos!
yet again I learned something cool to put in my tool bag. thanks a lot.
Very clever way of locating and holding the part.
Have to admit you had me buffaloed on how your going to hold it...great job as usual
Glad you enjoyed it
Very smart idea Keith....You the best.
I keep forgetting about the welder in the equation..lol.
Really interesting to see how you did this.👍🏻👊🏻👌🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I like the 7018 fasteners. Never thought of mounting parts that way. Will use it now.
Hi Mr. Fenner! This is a clear show why you can title your self as an excellent machinist!👍👌 Very interresting to watch and follow you channel. Keep up the good work👌👌👌
Cool, thanks
Welding to the arbor. Hah! That's a step up from Clickspring's and NYC-CNC's superglue fixturing. Good job.
Given the nature of steering assemblies, getting this location exactly correct is not critical (but it's good to try). Being off on one axis affects a many-inch radius (steering arm) by a few thousandths; being off on the other axis can be adjusted with the tie-rod length
ingenious setup...simple/smart, lots of lessons in this video thanks for sharing
Очень рад,что у тебя новая мастерская! Учусь на твоих видео👍