Fuel Injectors, Distributor, and Upper Intake Manifold Reinstall on 1988 Ford Ranger
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- čas přidán 8. 12. 2016
- Reinstalling the Fuel Injectors, Distributor, and upper intake manifold on the 1988 Ford Ranger. Replaced the o-rings, plastic spacer, and plastic end caps on the fuel injectors. Also replaced the distributor rotor and cap.
- Hry
Thank you for this video. There’s not very many videos on this year of the ranger.
Easy truck to work on in some ways!
TP sensor, O2 and nap sensor did I you check them. You have a completed vid after replacing IAC?
may i ask WHICH plug wire u got going rit in front of the hold down screw on left side 7 oclock ? thank u! I gotta 87 B-II bk from shop UN fixed n i vlv they screwed up..
Assuming I’m looking at the wires you are asking about, I’m not sure.
hey there! i've done quite a bit of replacing and repairing for my 1988 ford ranger 2.9 as well. the only thing that's really getting on my nerves is the ticking. idles perfectly but as soon as i take off or have to step on it to jump on the highway i get quite a bit of ticking from what I'm assuming is the lifters/valves. did you do any replacing for those or do you experience any ticking or clicking as well? thanks for the videos they're tons of help!
If you have hydraulic lifters then the litter will adjust for the slack on the rocker arms. Although if the ticking still persists then it is indeed a lifter at that point I would just get a set of them because there's no sense In trying to figure out which one it is then puting it back together and it be the wrong one
What is the torque spec for the intake pls ?
I just seen this video and it looks like you have the same engine and everything the same like my 90 Ford ranger I am trying to fix my distributor and I was wondering if I could follow your instructions and if it would work on my truck. Thanks
Should work I would think yes, just keep in mind if you completely remove the distributor mark it well or you'll need to a timing light to get it back in time.
if you only replace the rotor and cap you will still be in time. do not turn the rotor though
Does it take two people to reconnect the fuel rail ?
Shouldn’t no
If my 2.9 is running rich all the time throwing coal out the pipe should I do the injectors and also it lost all power it goes but it boggs nd pops
I would do some checking first like spark plugs, compression, and if you have it a fuel pressure tester. Sounds more like it either isn’t burning the fuel, or it has too much, which could be leaking injectors. Is the check engine light on? If so definitely start there!
RDAllen no the check engine light isn't on but you made it sound about right how it acts what it's doing
Mine was doing the same thing. Mine died on the road the other day when I tried starting it again it started bellowing out white smoke. I pulled the sparks and gasoline came POORING out of each hole. Would that be a leaky injector or something else?
How did you get whole distributor back in? I’m working on mine and idk if it’s going on all the way or what but I know there is on bolt behind it ( which I guess is a like a set screw) but it’s just not goin back in as easy as I got it out. Idk what the problem is
Rotate it back and forth slight maybe? Just make sure you get it back in the right rotation or have a timing light to check it.
My valve covers are on the opposite sides. I have an 87 ranger 2.9l. Anyone know why this is?
What? Really, how's that possible?!
Far as I can tell the valve covers are interchangeable lol
Excuse me what was the final torque spec for intake?
Is that the one where you are supposed to do it once assembled? But there is now way to torque the bolts?
I had the same problem o2 heater
That was a rotor for a different model randy and the backfiring is a tinning issue. I could be wrong but still leaning on idle air value
Yep, I figured the backfiring is timing, actually reading my official shop manual it gives better directions for timing so I might give that a try, otherwise take it to the local mechanic to make sure it is right. Got my idle air valve last night, going to put it on today and see what it does.
RD....there is an "emergency fix". I have been researching possible idle problems/stalling. and they all lead to the air intake sensor. Whether it is faulty...OR just stuck. If you have help, ask them to start the truck. While the truck is starting tap the sensor with something (it doesn't with what as long as you don't break the sensor) continue tapping after the truck has stalled. Rinse and repeat.
I have a feeling this is the problem. If need be, I can send a link to the YT video I seen resolving the same issue you have.
Yes, if you do I have video that would be great! I replaced the air charge sensor in the intake, that is the only sensor I know about though.
I did replace the idle air control valve, still no change.
RDAllen Does the vehicle run with someone holding the RPM's at say 2000, or does it stall even then? Does it stay running at 3000 RPM? The best way to test the Vacuum is with a Vacuum tester. Make sure you have at least 16 lbs of vacuum. I am now beginning to believe it is a vacuum problem. This is all part of testing....Definitely a PITA~~~~
Hey, I'm trying to reconnect my fuel injector and rail. What did you do to get the rail back on?
They just push together and clips slide on if I remember correctly
Did you connect the injectors to the rail first or the top of the engine?
ICM
Hello
Hi
hey hey hey you leave the metric system be at least it makes sense. 10mm in 1cm, 100cm in 1M, 1000m in 1 KM compared to 12 inches in 1 foot 3 foot in 1 yard 1760 yards in a mile. who the crap came up with those numbers?
but anyway im about to rip the entire injection system out of my BII and replace it with a ez efi system.