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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2016
- Hayden SEVERE Duty Fan Clutch HERE -- amzn.to/1WAfqtQ
Quick Blurp on Radiator cooling..
Destiny Day and Plain Loafer by Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
7 years later and this video still helping people, Thank you!
I just cut the coil spring with a dremel...and turned to valve to open position by hand.....tacoma went from 214 on hiway in az to 93✌
Fans don't add air flow over 35mph
@@Rvdaydream fake news
@@Rvdaydream fake news....they sure do dimwit
Real Physics.. Like adding a box fan in your house window during a cat 1 hurricane.. Flex a lite, Derale Confirmed this during seminar training when I worked at Summit Racing in the early 90's..
I told you it wasn't normal that truck was idling at 210 degrees, thats 10 degrees over boiling temp, and I don't like it. My old Chevy didn't use that kind of fan, it was all electronic based, off a engine temp sensor. But if you suddenly discover melted sensors and blown out fuses, you might find your fan not turning on no more lol. Thank you for demonstrating how those fan clutches worked, I never worked on those, so never experienced that. That was super cool, watching the valve rotate, once the spring got heated. I am loving it.
Boiling temp? wrong:
Water at atmospheric pressure is 212ºF; under 15 psi pressure is 250ºF; in 50/50* Glycol mix @ 15psi is 268ºF.
(50/50* Glycol @ atm pressure is 223ºF.)
*[I believe these figures i quoted are for a 50% mix. And typically the max recommended ratio is 60/40 glycol/water; which is slighter more boil/freeze protection].
Mr K L
Thank you Great illustration how the thermal coil works maybe people will understand that there's different types of fan clutches that are out there and the severe duty if you've done any tweaking to your automobile is the great way to go thank you
Thanks for the video, its so helpful to see how the valve should work when hot or cold. Keep the videos coming 👍🏼
Thank you
Great demo - always learn something new from your channel. Thanks!
Thanks as always!
great video!
problem i have is my fan clutch seems to be stuck on when going at highway speeds its not disengaging i put a new water pump and fan clutch in the truck in 2019 i think and its been that way ever since plus its a pump and fan clutch assembly.
Great Job explaining how things work for the Newbie's!!
Thanks!!
Educational and a very cool demonstration! Cheers! Thumbs Up!
Glad you liked!!
Cool, thanks for sharing, save travels. Thumbs/Like
Nice explanation
My Tahoe fan clutch makes a loud sound when taking accelerating sounds like it’s pushing a lot of air and less power
As I just found out on my 01 RAM with Cummins Diesel, a radiator full of grime and dirt can also cause the same symptoms as a bad fan clutch. Fords may be different but I thought I'd put that out there.
Yep, anything that restricts airflow like adding a bigger than needed trans cooler in front of the radiator or a dirty A/C condensor.. Whatever you do don't ever remove your fan shroud.. That is a another No-No.
+RVdaydream Most people dont wash the radiator area when they wash the vehicle. I always wash mine good to be sure that no gunk gets built up.
It's definitely a good idea, Be careful with the pressure wands at the wash bays though as they could potentially cause debris to be lodged deeper into the core or even cause leaks if the fins are pushed around by the spray..
very interesting.....
😁
Dakota going down grade 45mph cool weather overheated. Two gallons water in radiator. Went 110 miles home ok no grade .
I just replaced fan clutch. Air over radiator is NOT enough to cool engine.
Air has to be directed so that it flows through the radiator. Most stock vehicles, meaning no lifted trucks, no vehicles with air dams removed or added, no vehicles that have had their under engine catch pan whether it be plastic or rubber removed, should be designed to allow airflow through the radiator however, even with all the factory components in place there are some vehicles that the engineers have designed that require a fan to pull air through the radiator. But it's a poor design if that's the case. Just driving a car at 45 mph with any faulty cooling component such as a radiator that is not fully flowing, a thermostat that is sticking whether it be fully closed or fully open or even at the wrong temperature will cause a vehicle to overheat even though there is sufficient air flowing over the radiator. So to recap, if your vehicle is in its stock configuration, especially not lifted, and if it is a well engineered vehicle from the factory, and all of the cooling components are in top condition and working the way they are designed to then anything over 45 mph is more than enough air flow going through a radiator to keep a vehicle cool. Also remember the engine has to be spinning at a sufficient enough RPM to allow the water pump to circulate coolant throughout the engine at a rate that it will extract the Heat from the Block and transfer it so that the radiator can disperse of it. During a downgrade could be a chance at the engine was not doing that.
What if too cold engine? is it thermostatt problem ? Fully open even if 3hrs of operating my engine temp. Only 2bars on my panel board gauge sir....
Thermostat problem..
@@Rvdaydream thank you so much sir.. hug from philippines sir.. truck/semi trailer driver here sir...😊👍💪💪
Yep it is kind of of a flawed design if you think about it, not having the radiator up front catching all the air possible. they could at least close off the bottom etc, to force more thru radiator.some are beter than outhers.
I totally agree. Like most RV stuff I am sure it was designed with cost in mind and functionality being a secondary thought..
Cool video. Thank you soo much !!! 😎 😎 😎 😎 😎 🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻
Tbird v6 climbing sierra from valley floor. Warm not hot weather. Overheat. Pull over. Cool with water. About 10 times in 130 miles.
Yep fan clutch. So NO! air through radiator over 40mph did not cool engine sufficient.
The V6 thunderbird, yeah that car is not designed very well. Air was not being pulled or pushed or dragged or blown or anything else through the radiator with that little tiny grill opening. And I hope you didn't remove the belly pan(rubber flap) . If you pulled the radiator out of the engine bay and stuck it on the front of the car where would actually see air flow , you don't need that fan. So YES air over 40 mph that actually goes through the radiator will be enough to cool the vehicle.
When they fully engage on big a class motorhomes they push so much air they are noisy. it is aggervating.
i would imagine they need that air pretty badly inside that big box.. :-)
+RVdaydream Yes they need tons of air. My 36ft class a has a clutch fan as well as 2, 10 inch electric fans. Im thinking tho of changing out my clutch fan for a big electric fan. Maybe a 24 inch one.
99 percent of electric fans will never out cool a good ole mechanical one.. The exceptions being specific designed aluminum radiators with perfectly matched/formed fan shrouds with high volume fans.. These will run anywhere from $800-1500... I researched this heavily and talked with a couple of Manufacturers... The best one for my truck is $1200 from Griffin part# CU-70125
If your putting on the exact same fan, then it would not benefit from a heavy duty clutch. The torque is going to be the same. The 4 cores make NO difference to the load that the clutch will see. How many cores will not change how much work the clutch does, if it is driving the same fan, and with the same pulleys.
The benefit will be from all the other things a heavy duty offers. (probably higher durability in higher cycling or longer cycle operation, sustained higher temperatures, etc.; which is probably why you are using a 4 core in the first place...)
Mr K L
I don't think that I completely agree with that.. A fan that is designed with blade pitch and diameter size to draw through the fan shroud a determined amount of CFM by retrieving air through a path that is being blocked by a power steering cooler, an AC condenser and two radiator cores would definitely see more work if that same path is being restricted by an aftermarket oil cooler(separate video) and Double the size of the radiators thickness....
Using an analogy, Same straw, same mouth, thicker milk shake... Means more work..
Downfall about the severe duties, i found out those will allow maximum fan slips when disengaged
When driving over 35mph, the fan doesn't offer any additional windspeed anyways so, being fully disengaged is ideal for less power consumption..
@@Rvdaydream yeah but you one thing i found out???
Is that with clutch driven fans they dont seem offer great ac performance at idle
@@Rvdaydream and or when the engine rpms are below 800 rpm
I read that those 2 contribute to slightly poor performance of ac
Ninety percent of the time the poor performance at idle is not because of the fan it's because the compressor is turning at a much slower speed also. At idle up until about 1500 RPMs my fans screams when it's locked in. What I mean is it is pulling a ton of air it sounds like a semi truck.
@@Rvdaydream ah okay, i can see why a smaller car is more preferred since the engines i believe have higher idle
I always figured there was something up with my mid sizer SUV but nope , glad to know :)
Oh by the way wheres the link that you stated in this video?
As its not in the description
Fan clutches suk....the come on too late and get weak after a few hundred cycle
Your messing up your clutch by doing that.
25000 miles later, Works fine...
I don't think so:
He's presumably adding no more heat than it would see in normal operation in rotating to that same position...
He was at an angle and not directly into the seal area...
He stopped as soon as it rotated...
Slower heating would be best, so no hot spots (further away, flame not touching).
A heat gun would be optimal.
Mr K L