How to climb Aiguille Purtscheller (D, 5b) near Chamonix | Best Alpinisme in Europe | Vlog Ep. 12
Vložit
- čas přidán 20. 10. 2018
- Aiguille Purtscheller alpinisme on the Le Tour Glacier (Glacier du Tour) near Chamonix on the Mont Blanc massif is a real alpinisme adventure. The Normal route of the alpine climb runs up the South Ridge of the Aiguille Purtscheller and ends at the spiky summit itself.
There are six pitches, which are all multi-pitch alpine rock climbing. You can climb the route in your mountaineering boots if you are comfortable climbing 5b in such boots - otherwise I would recommend bringing our rock climbing shoes. There are several moves, where such rock climbing shoes will come in handy.,
You approach the Aiguille Purtscheller from the refuge Albert Premiere Hut on the Le Tour Glacier (Glacier du Tour) by hiking South East over the glacier towards Col Supérieur du Tour, crossing the col, and then head straight North towards the East face of Aiguille Purtscheller - just before Aiguille du Tour. Le Tour Glacier (Glacier du Tour) is close the Chamonix, where you can endure loads of alpinisme and fantastic rock climbing routes. You cannot hike from Aiguille du Midi, but have to go to the town of Le Tour. Well, I guess you practially could hike from Aiguille du Midi near Chamonix, but it will be a tough hike over glaciers.
I did another alpine climbing video about the Le Tour Glacier (Glacier du Tour) itself. You can watch it here.
► • Glacier du Tour (Le To...
The Aiguille Purtscheller South Ridge Normal Route offers stunning ridge climbing at maximum grade 5b. There are long cracks where you can do finger jams, hand jams and foot jams, corners, traverses and chimneys to explore. As you can see in this climbing vlog episode the topo will show a very diverse, yet sustained alpine climbing route.
Especially the fourth pitch, which is also the crux pitch is really rewarding, You will climb these golden flakes that looks like the back of a Stegosaurus! When this has been climbed you step into a chimney, where you have do climb to immense chockstones! Absolutely amazing!
Even though being lesser popular than the Aiguille do Tour and Tete Blanche alpine climbing routes, there can still be a lot of other alpine climbers on the route - so you might queue up.
Aiguille Purtscheller is absolutely amazing alpinisme and a test piece if your limit is the higher end of grad 5.
You will find the Le Tour Glacier (Glacier du Tour) by driving from Chamonix to the village of Le Tour, and taking the skilift up to Col du Balme, or hike from the valley itself.
Music: Bongo by KV
►► Remember to SUBSCRIBE to our channel to receive more exciting rock climbing videos, and LEAVE A COMMENT below to give us feedback or ask questions regarding the video.
Enjoy!
#AlpineClimbing #Alpinism #MontBlanc #Chamonix #GlacierDuTour - Sport
Superb video! Would love to see more content like this :)
Thank you Mihah! More is certainly to come. Have you also checked out some of the other videos here on the channel?
@@Cragcloud I have yes! I was in Chamonix for the first time this August, on du Tour and Midi. Started with easier things like Tete Blanche to get used to the granite (we have only limestone in Slovenia) but the Aiguille Purtscheller looks like a terrific climb, definitely saving your video for my next visit!
Nice! How was the climbs at Tete Blanche?
@@Cragcloud Nice and easy, a good introduction to Chamonix in my opinion :)
Good to hear. I have some fellow rock climbing friend who would like to try out alpinism, so I am actually considering bringing them to Tete Blanche
Hey, great video! Interesting to see how dry the start was. I climbed Purtscheller Arete S in very cold conditions 5 years ago, where I cut my finger and bled everywhere! I found that chimney pitch quite physical with a big pack, despite the very easy grade. And the last crack before the summit after the short traverse, I first tried going left (to the finger flake, way too hard), then tried the awkward crack instead. Also did Aiguille Dorees, Tete Blanche, Aig du Tour via Couloir du Table. A gem of an area!
I would image the conditions must have been quite different then. How was it climbing the cracks at the first pitch?
We where also quite challenged at the chimney and I actually threw my backpack over the top of the two chockstones to do the heavy moves
Well, the first pitch smelled like poo, someone had left a gift for us right at the start! It wasn't loose or anything, but I took the crack on the left and ended up have to traverse right when it got quite difficult, with bitter cold winds, where I tore my skin. What were the cracks like for you?
Haha! Sorry to hear that, Jonny! We followed the same crack on first pitch, but at the top it was really ice, so we had to move out onto the face to the right. That was a bit tricky and we at a pretty long run out. But good fun!
What a beautiful video! I'm feeling very inspired to pack up and head to the Alps (and work on my drone flying skills!) I'm really glad I just found your channel!
Thank you very much, Rachel 😄 I am really happy to hear that 😄
What drone are you flying?
@@Cragcloud I have the Mavic Pro 2 - I love it but definitely don't get to use it enough. What do you use?
I actually fly with the DJI Mavic 2 Zoom 😄 It is a great little beast! But a bit heavy climbing with. In this video actually, I flew with the DJI Spark. Its capabilities are a bit limited, but you can hardly feel you are climbing with it 😄
@@Cragcloud I feel you! I find it so hard knowing what to take out with me when we go climbing, there's always that "it's too heavy" and "what if I fall backwards onto my bag and break everything!" fear. Maybe I should think about a Spark in the long-run for adventure days - the quality is looks great in your video!
Thanks 😁 I am actually considering the DJI Mavic Air as a secondary drone for alpine climbing and when multi-pitch rock climbing. The DJI Mavic 2 Zoom is perfect for sport climbing, because with the telezoom and 4K you can really zoom in in post-production, but keep a good distance to the climber. I’ve used the DJI Mavic 2 Zoom for some of my recent videos 😄
very nice video, sure an inspiration for us! what drone you use?
Thank you so much! I try to inspire others to alpine climb some of these routes in the Alps.
I fly with the DJI Spark 😄
Hi, what's the length of the pitches ? Is a half rope of 60m (then pitch of 30m max) enough ?
Gabriel Payen Nope, some of the pitches are 40-50 meters as far as I remember 😕