1974 F350-Radius arm & I-beam bushing replacement
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2021
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This video is going to be on replacing the Radius arm bushings on the 1974 F350. Since we are there and will have the I-beams out we might as well replace those bushings as well. It can seem like a difficult task but it really is simple and something everyone can do in their garage.
Sourcing parts can be easy just do some research to make sure part numbers are correct. I went with MOOG bushings for both replacements. They have a great team that you are able to call and confirm fitment or they will help you find the right bushings. I wasn't able to order both from them directly but with a part number I just ordered it where it was available. Parts are getting harder and harder to come by during this pandemic!
Follow along as I replace the bushings and hopefully this helps so that your able to change out yours!
Moog part numbers(each bushing I had to order two, they did not come in a set).
1.Radius arm bushings-K8101
2.I-beam bushings-K8179(also referred to as axle pivot bushing)
Step by step.
1. Break loose all bolts while the weight of the truck is on the ground. It is a lot easier this way and safer. If you need to gain a little better access to the I-beam bolts you can jack up the truck slightly support it and then drop the suspension so it fully exposed the bolt head.
2. Once all bolts are loose jack the truck up and support it with jack stands(make sure it is safe before proceeding). If you choose to do both sides at the same time loosen lug nuts while truck is on the ground and then remove the wheels once its in the air and supported.
3. Remove I-beam bolts and castle nut that holds the radius arm in place. You will not be able to back out the I-beam bolt while the weight of the truck is on the ground make sure the suspension has no load. Before you can fully drop each side of the suspension you will need to compress the spring with the jack and then remove the top bracket that hold the spring in place at the spring perch. Along with the bottom bolt for the shock that secures it to the suspension.
4. As you drop each I-beam make sure you support it with some blocks or a stand, the rubber brake lines will have some room to extend but be careful not to put to much strain on them. You might need to use a pry bar to get the I-beams to drop along with pulling forward on the radius arm to get it out once the I-beam is down. Depending on the shape of your bushings if they are really far gone or non existent the radius arm will come out with ease. If they are decent its going to fight wanting to come out.
5. To get everything back in start with the radius arm bushings. They are the easiest, make sure to add a little grease to prevent any squeaking while driving. Push them back in with the new bushings just far enough to get the back washer on and castle nut then you can tighten it and that will completely seat the radius arm. Also make sure you replace your cotter pin.
6. With the radius arm back in place we can move on to the I-beam. With the F350 it was a complete bushing with outer sleeve. On my 70 F250 it was just a replacement polyurethane bushing that you can press it. Both were an easy process. On the F350 I made a relief cut in the outer sleeve and was able to deform it and it came right out(a lot easier with the bushing gone).
7. With the old I-beam bushing gone your ready to press in the new one. If you have a ball joint press you can use that to press in the new bushing if not you should be able to go rent one at your local hardware store.
8. Before you can put the I-beam back in you need to reinstall the spring and shock. Begin by jacking the spring back up slightly enough to where you can place it in the spring perch. Put the bracket back in place to keep the spring secure then you can jack it back up to start the reinstallation of the I-beam.
9. Reinstallation of the I-beam can take a bit. There really isn't one way to do it you just have to adjust it and move it around up/down left or right to get it to light up. Like I mentioned in the video I prefer to leave the jack under the spring on the side I'm working on so you can use it for adjustment. I found that adjusting the height or compressing the spring helps line up the I-beam to put the bolt in.
10. Now with the radius arm and I-beam back in you can put the wheels back on tighten the lug nuts, remove the jacks and carefully drop the truck! Torque the I-beam bolts with the truck on the ground. Now you've successfully replaced your I-beam & radius arm bushings!
#Ford #Dentside #Ibeams #Ibeambushings #radiusarmbushings - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Used painters tape to hold ball joint press parts together. Thanks good video
I didn’t think about that but easy way to keep them together. Thank you for watching!
Thank for the video, definitely going to help me with my 79 F350 camper special rebuild.
Glad it will help, thank you for watching!
Nice work. Got to love the simplicity of the twin I-beam suspension.
Thank you. Yeah makes it real easy to work on.
Lol what do you mean. Put it on whichever way you'd like. Look up a suspension diagram on the internet. I'm doing this job, this weekend. Wish me luck, thanks for the video!
Lol if I remember correctly I believe I mean that in terms of either doing it one side at a time or both at once. Nice! That’s plenty of time to knock it out, thank you for watching!
Been dreading doing this job on my 70 F100. Thanks for the straightforward overview of the process. Planning to swap on Dentside front disc brakes, so I’ll wait till I’m doing that and swap it all over. I’ll be upgrading to power steering at the same time, so it’ll be a new truck when I’m done I hope. 🙂
Nice! Yeah just wait till you get everything to do it all at once. It really isn’t to difficult, the I beam bolts can be a little tricky once your getting it all back together.
Good video and informative
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Needed this video! Thank you
Glad it will help! Thank you for watching!
Nice video. Your drivers bushing was backwards. The drivers side bushings always go first because the power steering boxes leak , and also the master cylinders sometime leak and run down to the lowest part of the frame....where the bushing is , and it destroys the rubber. I always use urethane bushings on the radius arms because they don't break down like the rubber ones. I also try to use urethane bushings on the beams.....but nobody makes them for F-350s....just F-250s. I personally also don't think greasing the new rubber bushings is a great idea. The grease will start the break down process on the rubber. Just my opinion.
Its too bad your so far from me...I have a cab with a beat and rusty roof , but a nice firewall and cab mount area I'm about to scrap that I would give you pieces from. Thanks for keeping another one alive!
Thank you for watching. I appreciate the information, I did have a hard time sourcing replacements for this truck compared to my F250, I was hoping to find urethane ones but none fit. So I put it back in correctly?
@@AJsGarage Always glad to follow a fellow Ford truck guy....Yes , you put the bushing in correctly. The "male" part goes on the radius rod first , then through the frame bracket where the "female" ish half of the bushing goes on last , and the cupped part of the washer faces the front and encapsulates the bushing. I have seen guys put them the other way. I have had to put the bushing through the frame bracket first to make for an easier install ...
Do you how much I have to torque the radius arm to the bracket?
Cool video duuuddeee 🤙🏽
Thanks bro!
Nice video. Where did you end up getting the bushing for the pivot axle? I have a 73 1 ton and can't find them anywhere...all not available. You are correct they are slightly larger than the 3/4 ton
Thank you for watching! I got mine from O’reilly’s, I just checked the part number and they are not available. Use this part number K8179 and try calling Moog maybe they can reference a different part that will fit. I remember I had called them and it got me pointed in the right direction.
This was great. My radius arm bushing was completely gone on my drivers side. As Chevelle Ranch mentioned in the comments already, I'm thinking it's due to the massive power steering fluid leak I have. That's my next battle. I haven't refilled it because it just sprays onto my driveway.. So far I've ordered everything from LMC Truck and it's been great quality. I think I'll probably order the axle pivot bushing for the I Beams too since they'll be out anyway.
Thank you for watching! Yeah it makes sense after he mentioned that. LMC is awesome having all those parts available from one place. Depending on your truck see if you can find some polyurethane bushings for your replacements. They should hold up longer and are a upgrade to the original ones.
spray control is better then my shave cream,How does it smell?
Good! It actually has somewhat of a citrus smell
Howdy, I was curious if you knew any of the torque specs for the suspension?
I will be restoring my entire front suspension on my 73’ F250 2x4 this spring and I am not having any luck finding torque specs for any bolts on the front suspension.
Nice job on the video showing every step. I really appreciate it. Keep up the awesome work and videos. 🤘🏻🍻
Thank you for watching! I appreciate, I always try to show as much as possible and step by step in case anyones doing the same thing at home. I honestly didn’t look for any torque specs, I didn’t tighten them to much either. Radius arm ends specially I didn’t want to damage the bushing.
@@AJsGarage , sounds good. I was thinking about just playing it by ear and feel but wanted to make sure. Thanks for getting back to me. Keep up the awesome videos. 🍻🤘🏻
Great video, I am super confused how you get the wheel assembly to move so freely when pulling the radius arm out and putting back in. It is super loose and moves freeley in your video, you even lift it and move it with one hand ( minute mark 7:50 ) . Im in the middle of this project right now and I have removed spring and shock and the radius arm will not budge one inch so I am very confused !
Had to go back and watch but mine was a bit difficult to get out as you saw with the bushing intact. With the spring and shock removed I can’t think of what else could be preventing it from coming out. I-beam bolt is out and beam dropped?
ahhh. I did not realize you had taken the ibeam bolt out and dropped it prior. Its the opposite side bolt, correct ? @@AJsGarage
@@PR-gn2vd Yes it’s the opposite side bolt for the side your removing the radius arm. It should go a lot smoother now, thank you for watching!
@@AJsGarage I got everything put together, but I cannot slide the I-beam with the new bushing back into place. It is a little too wide. It’s almost like I need to spread the bracket where it goes a tiny tiny amount. Any ideas?
@@PR-gn2vd I had the same problem with one side. Applied some grease and used a pry bar to get it started. I can’t remember exactly, took me a bit to get it back in the right spot.
i dont know how your bushing slid in so easy. i have to ratchet strap the radius arm to the frame and it still isnt going in
The bushing to the radius arm?
So did you notice a big difference in handling and feel of freshness or?
Yes I did. The radius arm bushings were shot so I could feel the front I beams shift from front to back when pulling out of the driveway or coming to a stop. Now there is no movement besides the suspension as it’s supposes to move.
@@AJsGarage oh awesome .. That sounds so sketchy lol.. Yeah im restoring a 91 econoline (restomod with a blown 306 so it has to be safe) and i get excited to see other peoples victories . like I have parts for all of it. So im thinking it may be easier to jack and secure the truck and like.. Pull the arms.. The I beams. . even new radius brackets .. Kingpins etc . so just get the whole front components off (one side at a time ). Probably the best way to do everything but.. Yeah. Awesome to know!
Dangerous not to have another jack in the front, especially kicking a wheel assembly and also wrenching near that jack that's saving your life....And that jack is not bullet proof--can slip out of the teeth--known to happen. A jack on a board like that---dabAlso--replace those springs and shocks while you're at it. Everything is related....
I agree it’s just what I had at the time. I do have more now, shocks were replaced but haven’t got to the springs. Thank you for watching.
I may have missed it but if you remember how long per side did this take?
Honestly since I’ve done it a few times it would probably just be a little more than an hour per side. Getting the i-beams back in can be a struggle I’d say give yourself half the day. An impact really speeds it up also
Thanks!
@@bendrake1216 You’re welcome, thank you for watching!
Wats the torque specs for the radius arm bushings?
I have the shop manual and it says that radius arm to bracket F-100 thru F-350, Econoline 80-120 Lb-Ft
But I just could torque it at a maximum of 35 Lb-Ft because the bushing started split out and deforming.
Do you have any suggestions that may help me???
Thanks
Honestly I didn’t really check the torque specs for it. I got it back down to where it was before the bushing did have a slight bulb but nothing that would damage it. If for some reason it does come loose the cotter pin will hold it
@@AJsGarage what's the bushings brand? I'm thinking that could be the problem, I'm just bought the cheapest ones at AutoZone "Duralast" brand.
I have been watching other videos and and some of those shows how the guy use an impact wrench and the he
re-tight it by hand applying all his force and the bushings barely expand a little bit.
What you think?
What brand did you use?
@@smokingtime420 For this truck the brand and parts I got were from MOOG suspension. I don’t think you’d need to use an impact, I did this same thing on my 70 F250 about 3 years ago and haven’t had any problems
@@AJsGarage
How many Lb - Ft torque did you put on them? Do you have the part # for the bushings? Because I was looking for Moog brand and apparently there's like 3 or 4 different bushings for this same application.
Thanks