Excellent video. My yth22v46 was barely moving at just 45 hrs. So I dropped the diff to put in 5w50 synthetic. Cracked open to inspect. The inside looked great. Barely anything on any magnet. Put back in mower, purged air and still the same problem. Turns out that I had a build up crap at the clutch linkage under the pedal. Once hosed out and sprayed the linkage, it runs better than brand new.
Thank you for your knowledge. You're an amazing teacher. Covering the experience of the work and the ability to communicate it in the same. Great job. I watched your video and tackled mine today. Opened mine to find a spring that had jammed inside one of the pins in my piston pump motor. Caused the spring to break and pieces traveled through causing quite significant damage.
Thank you for the compliment! That is bad news on the spring braking! Are you planning on repairing it or are you going to look for a second hand unit and rebuild that one?
A few years ago I worked on one of these when I got ready to install the motor I made some alinement studs out of some bolts made putting the motor back a whole easier it is talked about around 23:35 very good video BTW
Brilliant video I’ve got a snapped axel shaft I’m hoping that now I’ve seen your video I might be able to replace it by myself I just don’t want to remove too many parts incase I forget where they go 😂
I found the videos very useful to refer back to when I was assembling the unit. If you can't record the disassembly take lots of photos, especially when you remove things to confirm orientation and part order.
Mine started slipping and whining after about 450 hours. The fill cap on the top had split and the oil was like chocolate milk. Getting one of the wheel hubs off the axle proved impossible but if you are opening the transmission it is not necessary to remove the hub to replace the axle seals. You can take the axle out, fit new seal and put the axle back in. I Replaced the axle seals and fill cap and resealed it up. I regret not stripping down the oil pump and motors to check for wear but it seems to work ok with new oil.
Awesome video! Just make sure when you use any impact you don't use the chrome sockets or extensions, only black impact rated ones to avoid shattering.
@@theshop392 Can you please help me with a parts requirement and where to order them from please , ( the tractor has no power and is shaking, it has thrown out and all the oil in the sump. What parts do I need to order, what are their names? I am willing to put £4-500 into the repair as I have 4800 sq ft of grass ( lawn ) Thank you! 🙏
You are correct, however some applications require it to be swapped around. You need to record the direction it is in when you open the case and reinstall in the same direction. It will be different on different applications of the transmission
Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo plein de détails en tout genre et vraiment très bien filmée. Ma transmission n'a plus de puissance, elle arrive à peine à faire avancer le tracteur même à vide. Elle n'a pas de fuite d'huile et je n'ai rien vu de spécial. J'ai fait la vidange une fois mais cela n'a rien changé. Je n'ai pas oser la démonter. Que me conseilles-tu?
I would open the transmission casing to see what's going on inside. If there is lots of metal shavings you have mechanical damage, if there is no oil then you have a leak that you didn't notice. These transmissions are prone to leaking at the wheel seals, so the leak looks like it's a bad wheel seal
Hello, I have a K 46 transmission. The manufacturer says parts are not available for repair. How did you get yours? I have gears that are throwing metal chips and blending it with the oil which caused excessive where in the hydraulic pump and motor.
Have you tried to purchase parts directly from Tough Torque. I was able to get all the parts I needed as well as the magnet upgrade from them. Failing that why don't you try finding a second hand box that is in good shape?
I have a cub cadet with a tuff torq K46. The wheel seals both went bad a year or so ago and leaked out oil. I replaced the seals and refilled it but every since once it gets hot it quits pulling. Recently it doesn’t take long at all to quit pulling. I am a mechanic by trade. Any suggestions as to what you think causes this? Thank you in advance
Mitch, it's very difficult to diagnose without looking at it. On one of my other mowers I had similar symptoms, lost drive as it heated up. I found that the unit was low on oil and had to add oil - I suggest you start there. If that does not work I would open it up and make sure that none of the screens (small mesh screens) are plugged.
You will need to check your serial number to make sure you have the right kit. Here is the link I used: tufftorq.ordertree.com/model?modelId=753&brandCode=TTQ. It shows the kit as #200 with PN TUF1A646098240. Remember you will still need oil
Hello, great job. I have toro dh 190 is the same gear box. When is flat land is ok , but when is little bet hill just stop .he thinks a bit and drives again and stops again. Do you know what the problem might be?
Did you get all that Max Not quite chief What didn't you get Max everything after we take our these bolts and prise it up using the pry points. I'm afraid you lost me soon after and as for reassembling it not a chance I'm completely lost. But you sure know your stuff.Parts washer?? Are you sure that's not a dish washer?? If it is a great idea for a parts washer but I don't think dishwasher tablets would be a good idea I think they have sodium hydroxide in them wich may play about with the Aluminium. Great tear down though, but you lost me.
David - its much easier to do when you have the parts in front of you! Yes the parts washer is an old dishwasher, I don't use dishwasher tablets rather I use commercial de-greaser that I pour into the bottom before I start. It does a great job.
Hey "Max" This guy did a reasonable job, especially if you have some idea, you may have to watch it a couple of times, but Check out Pilot View Productions, he does an excellent couple of videos on this transaxle. Really detailed every step of the way, first class. I can even follow them. Cheers, Larabee. 😉
Scott without taking a look it is hard to determine if there is an issue. As I recall all shafts were firm, ie it did not take force to slide, but they were not loose either. Best would be to look for wear on mating components.
Great tutorial, thanks for taking the time to post it to the CZcams world . 😎
Glad that you found it useful!
Excellent video. My yth22v46 was barely moving at just 45 hrs. So I dropped the diff to put in 5w50 synthetic. Cracked open to inspect. The inside looked great. Barely anything on any magnet. Put back in mower, purged air and still the same problem. Turns out that I had a build up crap at the clutch linkage under the pedal. Once hosed out and sprayed the linkage, it runs better than brand new.
Glad you found the issue! Always best to start with the simple things!
Excellent video Sir. Just the facts, good camera work, lots of details, and sensible advice. Thank you.
Thanks Larry, we appreciate the feedback!
The parts washer is genius. I wish I had room to do that.
Thanks David, I did try and use the one in the house once, but trust me that means you have to buy a new one for the house...
Well explained with good photography. Thank you.
Thank you Rob
Best tutorial I've seen by-far! Kudos to the camera man.
Thank you, I trust that it helps with your project
Thank you for your knowledge. You're an amazing teacher. Covering the experience of the work and the ability to communicate it in the same. Great job. I watched your video and tackled mine today. Opened mine to find a spring that had jammed inside one of the pins in my piston pump motor. Caused the spring to break and pieces traveled through causing quite significant damage.
I'm putting together parts list online, may come out better buying new tranny. Stuff is so pricey these days. And for no good reason.
Thank you for the compliment! That is bad news on the spring braking! Are you planning on repairing it or are you going to look for a second hand unit and rebuild that one?
Very good job and extremely helpful plus easy to follow alone with the instructions
Thank you, glad that you were able to follow!
Great job !! very informative.
Thanks Scot, hope it was of help to you.
Great video with good details - thanks for sharing
We are glad you enjoyed watching it, hope it comes in useful sometime
I can see why they charge so much for these trans new. Wish they still made manual gear units.
Thank you for posting.
They are rather complex!
Great work! Next time I service mine, I will take the lower case off and clean those lower magnets.
As far as I can tell there may be an add on, the kit is available if they are not there when you open it up
@@theshop392 Might be a good investment for the longevity of the transaxle.
Awesome video and a life saver.
Glad it was helpful!
A few years ago I worked on one of these when I got ready to install the motor I made some alinement studs out of some bolts made putting the motor back a whole easier it is talked about around 23:35 very good video BTW
Thank you for the tip on the alignment studs.
Brilliant video I’ve got a snapped axel shaft I’m hoping that now I’ve seen your video I might be able to replace it by myself I just don’t want to remove too many parts incase I forget where they go 😂
I found the videos very useful to refer back to when I was assembling the unit. If you can't record the disassembly take lots of photos, especially when you remove things to confirm orientation and part order.
I just took mine apart yesterday, thanks for the tutorial!
That is great, let us know how the reassembly goes.
Mine started slipping and whining after about 450 hours. The fill cap on the top had split and the oil was like chocolate milk. Getting one of the wheel hubs off the axle proved impossible but if you are opening the transmission it is not necessary to remove the hub to replace the axle seals. You can take the axle out, fit new seal and put the axle back in. I Replaced the axle seals and fill cap and resealed it up. I regret not stripping down the oil pump and motors to check for wear but it seems to work ok with new oil.
Glad that it seems to be working now!
Great instructional video.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video! Just make sure when you use any impact you don't use the chrome sockets or extensions, only black impact rated ones to avoid shattering.
Thanks for the advice, agree on the impact sockets
Well done Sir.
Thank you, hope your project is successful!
Such a great video
Thank you!
Nice and easy. I try in Octombrie same jobb. 👍
Good luck, let us know if you were successful
@@theshop392 Can you please help me with a parts requirement and where to order them from please , ( the tractor has no power and is shaking, it has thrown out and all the oil in the sump. What parts do I need to order, what are their names? I am willing to put £4-500 into the repair as I have 4800 sq ft of grass ( lawn ) Thank you! 🙏
Merci beaucoup je vais pouvoir réparer le miens !!
Très heureux que cette vidéo ait été utile ! Faites-nous savoir si vous avez réussi à obtenir si réparé
excellent !
Thank you Alexander
Thank you for the tutorial. My 2012 K46 didn’t come with a fan. Are there units without one?
I am not sure if units were built without a fan. All units that I have seen have a fan on so I would recommend you check a parts book to make sure.
I noticed the wedge block is positioned with a wrong orientation. This will make the forward go reverse and vice versa.
You are correct, however some applications require it to be swapped around. You need to record the direction it is in when you open the case and reinstall in the same direction. It will be different on different applications of the transmission
ope, you put the fan and pully on backwards.
Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo plein de détails en tout genre et vraiment très bien filmée. Ma transmission n'a plus de puissance, elle arrive à peine à faire avancer le tracteur même à vide. Elle n'a pas de fuite d'huile et je n'ai rien vu de spécial. J'ai fait la vidange une fois mais cela n'a rien changé. Je n'ai pas oser la démonter. Que me conseilles-tu?
I would open the transmission casing to see what's going on inside. If there is lots of metal shavings you have mechanical damage, if there is no oil then you have a leak that you didn't notice. These transmissions are prone to leaking at the wheel seals, so the leak looks like it's a bad wheel seal
What oil grade? From 40°F-100°F.
Gary I am not sure on the oil grade, we used the Stuff Torq supplied oil
Hello, I have a K 46 transmission. The manufacturer says parts are not available for repair. How did you get yours? I have gears that are throwing metal chips and blending it with the oil which caused excessive where in the hydraulic pump and motor.
Have you tried to purchase parts directly from Tough Torque. I was able to get all the parts I needed as well as the magnet upgrade from them. Failing that why don't you try finding a second hand box that is in good shape?
I have a cub cadet with a tuff torq K46. The wheel seals both went bad a year or so ago and leaked out oil. I replaced the seals and refilled it but every since once it gets hot it quits pulling. Recently it doesn’t take long at all to quit pulling. I am a mechanic by trade. Any suggestions as to what you think causes this? Thank you in advance
Mitch, it's very difficult to diagnose without looking at it. On one of my other mowers I had similar symptoms, lost drive as it heated up. I found that the unit was low on oil and had to add oil - I suggest you start there. If that does not work I would open it up and make sure that none of the screens (small mesh screens) are plugged.
Did you discover the problem yet.. i've got one doing the same thing I hope to take apart this week n have a look
Check for worn pump/motor aluminum housing and the pump/motor mating faces.If not to bad can block sand smooth all surfaces (1500 final grit).
Do you have part numbers for the seal kit?
You will need to check your serial number to make sure you have the right kit. Here is the link I used: tufftorq.ordertree.com/model?modelId=753&brandCode=TTQ. It shows the kit as #200 with PN TUF1A646098240. Remember you will still need oil
Nice
Thank you
Hi! I made the rebuild but when i use the mower the forward end the backward exchanged?! What can be the problem?
Take a look at 23:40 in this video, there is a wedge block that has a thick and thin side, I suspect you have it the wrong way
Hello, great job. I have toro dh 190 is the same gear box. When is flat land is ok , but when is little bet hill just stop .he thinks a bit and drives again and stops again. Do you know what the problem might be?
I would check the oil level, I have had the same symptoms on another lawnmower and it had a oil leak
What happen to the wavey washer that goes between the pulley and the fan?
Good catch, I missed it when I was doing the video unfortunately I didn't record when I put it back in
I'd be screwed after taking that pump cover off. I've never been good with any type auto trans. It is a shame they started with plastic bodies now.
It does take some mechanical feel/confidence to open a transmission!
I was looking for information about a locking differential. This model must not have one.
Richard, you are correct this model did not have a locking differential. It would be a great project to see if you could fit a locker.
looks like Brian surgery
One has to be slow and methodical about the teardown, lots of photos or videos to record what it looked like prior to tearing down.
That's a strange Canadian accent.
Not Canadian, guess again!
Did you get all that Max Not quite chief What didn't you get Max everything after we take our these bolts and prise it up using the pry points. I'm afraid you lost me soon after and as for reassembling it not a chance I'm completely lost. But you sure know your stuff.Parts washer?? Are you sure that's not a dish washer?? If it is a great idea for a parts washer but I don't think dishwasher tablets would be a good idea I think they have sodium hydroxide in them wich may play about with the Aluminium. Great tear down though, but you lost me.
David - its much easier to do when you have the parts in front of you! Yes the parts washer is an old dishwasher, I don't use dishwasher tablets rather I use commercial de-greaser that I pour into the bottom before I start. It does a great job.
Hey "Max"
This guy did a reasonable job, especially if you have some idea,
you may have to watch it a couple of times,
but Check out Pilot View Productions,
he does an excellent couple of videos on this transaxle.
Really detailed every step of the way, first class.
I can even follow them.
Cheers,
Larabee. 😉
Why did you not drill out the two dimples for drain plugs while you had the case lid off?
That is definitely a miss on our side, I agree it would have made sense to put drain plugs in while it was open!
is the pump block supposed to be snug and slide onto the main shaft splines with no play?
Scott without taking a look it is hard to determine if there is an issue. As I recall all shafts were firm, ie it did not take force to slide, but they were not loose either. Best would be to look for wear on mating components.
dump the k46 and buy a k66 .. it's TWICE the torque and fits right in the same mounts NEVER to break like the cheap and weak k46
Thanks for the information, this certainly sounds like something to investigate