Your video was very thorough and explained each step clearly. Just changing the transaxle oil fixed my JD X300 tractor. Cost me $13 plus a couple hours. Saved me hundreds. Thanks.
You have the best How To Videos I have seen. Thank you for your efforts. I am very eager to watch rest of this series, and will use them when I tackle my John Deere D130. Also, your Husqvarna 455 Rancher series really helped me make mine run nicely. Thank you again.
Hi again Dean, I'm ecstatic to say that changing the transaxle fluid and oil filter has fixed the problem and the Lawn Tractor now drives like it did when new, 20 years ago!! Slightly faster and stops sooooooooo much quicker when lifting off the gas!!!! You've really helped me THANK YOU and I referred back to watching parts 1 and 2 several times during the work!!!! In summary I'd say if the squealing/graunching noise happens soon after startup and then goes away after maybe 5 minutes it's WELL WORTH changing the fluid and filter. Most reports of changing the fluid/filter not working seem to be from cases where the tractor originally goes well and then loses power after 30+ minutes. The part I found most nerve-wracking was applying the new gasket sealant and I followed your instructions and the instructions with the (Tuff Torq approved) RTV sealant I used and no hint of a leak!!!! Thanks again Dean, you rock!!!! and I'm happy to answer any questions from others thinking about a Westwood fix :)
Always good to hear a success story. Not many folks reply after performing the work to let me know how it turned out, so thanks. Glad the videos helped in any way. Ironically I’m right in the middle of doing this same operation on my JD X320 and am hoping for similar results. Much success in your future projects as well. Dean
@@Philly5G I received them. Great job on the lower case cleanup. Sounds like you’re quite proficient at repairs and not afraid to tackle the big stuff. Thanks again for your original post as it may help others with the same type mower to know this procedure works so well.
@@PilotViewProductions Thanks for the quick reply and kind feedback Dean!!! When I was taking the pics of the cleaned-up lower case half, the thought did pop into my head of the subtitle "following in the footsteps of the master"!!!! as that's exactly what I did for the whole project!!
You might want to consider removing the background music for people who want to listen to what you are saying without the distraction. Otherwise, great info.
Thanks for the comment Alan. I suppose the smart 'a' in me would say 'just turn down the volume', but your point is well taken and my newer videos limit background music. Thanks for viewing.
Exactly Tom. That's the reason I didn't install it here...'plus' on my model you can't get to the top plugs to 'refill' without dropping the tranny and removing the fan.
Hi Dean, thank you for doing this series of films!!! I'm just about to change the transmission oil and oil filter in my 2001 Westwood S1600 tractor with a K46E and your films have REALLY set me up for success!! My problem is maybe unusual in that I only get the graunching noise when the tractor is cold and having run for about 5 minutes the noise goes away and everything is fine. It's been in storage for about 13 years and I'm guessing the fluid has deteriorated and maybe the filter is gummed up and not letting the cold thick oil through - we'll soon find out!!!!
Hey Phil. Thanks for watching the series. It was actually kinda fun to do cept for setting up for all the camera and lighting shots. I suspect you will have much success if you break into yours. One bit of advice...after you remove the bottom cover, don't let the transmission accidentally flip over, or gears can fall out before you get a chance to logically remove them.....(don't ask how I know). RE: the noise...I suspect you are correct and hopefully only the filter and fluid will need changing. Those magnets I showed will also be pretty nasty and grimy. While you're in there, just inspect the teeth of the main gears...a little bit of scoring is normal, but in slowly turning the wheels: if you notice a 'lot' of play in the gears due to wear, I'd replace them as they're pretty economical as a kit on eBay. Best of luck my friend and again, thanks for watching. Hope I've got other videos to help you in your future endeavors.
Hi Dean, all going well and the inside of the gear box looks great and very intact!!, with very little metal fragments on the magnets. Your films have proved soooooo useful during this job-thank you!!! My K46 is a K46e and unlike yours, the case magnet just sits within the oil filter and not in the holder like yours. The filter I’ve taken out has a metal end plate at the bottom that the magnet was attracted to, but the replacement filter just has 2 open ends, so the magnet will basically be loose as the gearbox casing is non magnetic. My worry is the magnet could bounce up and block the oil holes in the centre mounting above the filter, but do you know if the oil is coming DOWN through those holes into the filter, or IN through the sides of the filter and UP through the holes? Thank you :)
Sir! I view lots of vidéo and i could tell you your one of à cain ( expert ) and i do enjoy watching your vidéo well explain! Sry for my writting im french! Lol 😂
By FAR you have created the best step by step video of how to service the transmission. Just purchased a new X350 and plan on changing the filter and fluid after the warranty is up. Figure that will be about 120 hours which will mean the transmission magnets will have some metal. Noticed you stayed with John Deere fluid, just curious if you would still stay with that particular fluid? Thanks for passing along your knowledge!
Thanks for viewing and the kind comments Gary. Re the fluid: I realize other DIY’ers used a different synthetic oil but: I figured the OEM brand lasted all these many years before I even knew it could be changed. Now that I’m aware, it only has to last a couple hundred hours. If you visit the Tuff Torq website, they make recommendations as to oil as well. I suspect the John Deere oil meets those specs so I’m good with the OEM brand. BTW: I also have an X-320 that I just changed the fluid on. It works great. I think the pumps are a bit stronger on the X-320 tranny.
Thanks for viewing....you 'can' drop the gearbox cover, 'but' be prepared for the drive gears and brake parts to fall out without a chance to see how they came out.
This is exactly why I don’t promote adding drain plugs unless all you’re going to do is change the oil. Even then, on my model you can’t get to the filler plug without removing the fan and can’t remove the fan without dropping the transaxle.
Your videos are top notch, Thanks For sharing!That is the cleanest Mower I have ever seen, Do you actually mow with it...lol...Just kidding, I subscribed to your channel, Keep up the great work!
Makes me laugh Bob cause of the hours that mower has on it. Pressure washer does wonders before filming. Appreciate the recognition of work that goes into the videos however and thanks especially for subscribing, it means more than you know. Dean
Hello, I just changed the oil and still have the same same problem. When it gets hot it struggles going up hill. Do you think maybe I need to change the filter?
‘Can’ you? Yes. Would I? Nope. I think it would take longer to have to reach around the deck and undo linkages, etc. than it would take just to remove the deck.
I got both seal sets from the guy in Canada whose contact info I put in the description section. I never knew the numbers but will try and find them for you soon if you wish.
@@mantaslaurinaitis8251 You probably already solved this, but in case it helps anyone else: To find part numbers for Tuff Torq Transmissions, go to tufftorq.ordertree.com/ and search you Transmission's part number (not your tractor's p/n) and then choose the appropriate serial number range. Then on the right side, under "Diagrams" select "Parts" and you'll find an exploded view of the transmission along with a part listing including all kits available. For example, when I search for my K46 P/N = 7A646084220 with serial number = K46BR0175375 (which corresponds to a JD X300 P/N = M0X300C150606) I find that my seal kit P/N = 1A646099141. Also: Calling the people at Tuff Torq is effective. Real humans answer and they are super helpful. Good luck!
@m.forrest5603 0 seconds ago Great video, Dean. Thanks for being so thorough. The only thing I don't have is a chain hoist, or even access to overhead joists to support the body of the tractor. What would you recommend as an alternative? This guy has a proposal: czcams.com/video/2_3tla8fLT8/video.html. Do you have a better one? I also noticed that he didn't remove the fan. Your thoughts? Again, thanks for you help! Michael
@@m.forrest5603 Far be it from me to be critical of someone else but since you asked… if I didn’t have a way to hoist the lawnmower from overhead, I would place a jack under both sides of the lawnmower from underneath. That way when all the attachment points are loosened, you can just roll the rear end out from under the body… secondly, removal of the fan is not that big of a deal, and prevents it from being soaked in oil when turned upside down.
Very procedural and no oh-so-typical you-tuber digression into useless information. Outstanding video!
Thank you sir and thanks for watching. Dean
Your video was very thorough and explained each step clearly. Just changing the transaxle oil fixed my JD X300 tractor. Cost me $13 plus a couple hours. Saved me hundreds. Thanks.
I’m glad to hear it Randy. It worked for my X320 as well. But just for grins I hope you’ll check out parts 2 and 3 just in case you ever need it. Dean
You have the best How To Videos I have seen. Thank you for your efforts. I am very eager to watch rest of this series, and will use them when I tackle my John Deere D130. Also, your Husqvarna 455 Rancher series really helped me make mine run nicely. Thank you again.
Wow, I appreciate the kind words! ...and, as always, thank you for taking the time to watch. Dean
Hi again Dean, I'm ecstatic to say that changing the transaxle fluid and oil filter has fixed the problem and the Lawn Tractor now drives like it did when new, 20 years ago!! Slightly faster and stops sooooooooo much quicker when lifting off the gas!!!! You've really helped me THANK YOU and I referred back to watching parts 1 and 2 several times during the work!!!! In summary I'd say if the squealing/graunching noise happens soon after startup and then goes away after maybe 5 minutes it's WELL WORTH changing the fluid and filter. Most reports of changing the fluid/filter not working seem to be from cases where the tractor originally goes well and then loses power after 30+ minutes. The part I found most nerve-wracking was applying the new gasket sealant and I followed your instructions and the instructions with the (Tuff Torq approved) RTV sealant I used and no hint of a leak!!!! Thanks again Dean, you rock!!!! and I'm happy to answer any questions from others thinking about a Westwood fix :)
Always good to hear a success story. Not many folks reply after performing the work to let me know how it turned out, so thanks. Glad the videos helped in any way. Ironically I’m right in the middle of doing this same operation on my JD X320 and am hoping for similar results. Much success in your future projects as well. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions Good luck with the X320!! Looks like it's got a Tuff Torq K58. I've emailed you a few pics from my project :)
@@Philly5G I received them. Great job on the lower case cleanup. Sounds like you’re quite proficient at repairs and not afraid to tackle the big stuff. Thanks again for your original post as it may help others with the same type mower to know this procedure works so well.
@@PilotViewProductions Thanks for the quick reply and kind feedback Dean!!! When I was taking the pics of the cleaned-up lower case half, the thought did pop into my head of the subtitle "following in the footsteps of the master"!!!! as that's exactly what I did for the whole project!!
Very professionally done and best video I have seen on this process. I was not even aware of that second magnet, thank you.
Thanks for viewing and for the compliments. Dean
Excellent instructions - clear and concise.
Thank you
You might want to consider removing the background music for people who want to listen to what you are saying without the distraction. Otherwise, great info.
Thanks for the comment Alan. I suppose the smart 'a' in me would say 'just turn down the volume', but your point is well taken and my newer videos limit background music. Thanks for viewing.
The Tuff Torq K46 is very much serviceable and the new one use powdered coat steel gears and very strong
There is a drain plug kit upgrade available but you still have to remove bottom case to access the filter.
Exactly Tom. That's the reason I didn't install it here...'plus' on my model you can't get to the top plugs to 'refill' without dropping the tranny and removing the fan.
The Cast Aluminum housing is also very strong and very durable
Hi Dean, thank you for doing this series of films!!! I'm just about to change the transmission oil and oil filter in my 2001 Westwood S1600 tractor with a K46E and your films have REALLY set me up for success!! My problem is maybe unusual in that I only get the graunching noise when the tractor is cold and having run for about 5 minutes the noise goes away and everything is fine. It's been in storage for about 13 years and I'm guessing the fluid has deteriorated and maybe the filter is gummed up and not letting the cold thick oil through - we'll soon find out!!!!
Hey Phil. Thanks for watching the series. It was actually kinda fun to do cept for setting up for all the camera and lighting shots. I suspect you will have much success if you break into yours. One bit of advice...after you remove the bottom cover, don't let the transmission accidentally flip over, or gears can fall out before you get a chance to logically remove them.....(don't ask how I know). RE: the noise...I suspect you are correct and hopefully only the filter and fluid will need changing. Those magnets I showed will also be pretty nasty and grimy. While you're in there, just inspect the teeth of the main gears...a little bit of scoring is normal, but in slowly turning the wheels: if you notice a 'lot' of play in the gears due to wear, I'd replace them as they're pretty economical as a kit on eBay. Best of luck my friend and again, thanks for watching. Hope I've got other videos to help you in your future endeavors.
Hi Dean, all going well and the inside of the gear box looks great and very intact!!, with very little metal fragments on the magnets. Your films have proved soooooo useful during this job-thank you!!! My K46 is a K46e and unlike yours, the case magnet just sits within the oil filter and not in the holder like yours. The filter I’ve taken out has a metal end plate at the bottom that the magnet was attracted to, but the replacement filter just has 2 open ends, so the magnet will basically be loose as the gearbox casing is non magnetic. My worry is the magnet could bounce up and block the oil holes in the centre mounting above the filter, but do you know if the oil is coming DOWN through those holes into the filter, or IN through the sides of the filter and UP through the holes? Thank you :)
Ps On draining and measuring the old fluid, there’s only about 1.5 litres of it…….. so looks like my cause suspicions may be correct :)
Excellent job on this video!!
Thanks for viewing and for the kind comment Ben. Dean
Sir! I view lots of vidéo and i could tell you your one of à cain ( expert ) and i do enjoy watching your vidéo well explain! Sry for my writting im french! Lol 😂
merci pour votre visionnage et pour vos aimables commentaires
By FAR you have created the best step by step video of how to service the transmission. Just purchased a new X350 and plan on changing the filter and fluid after the warranty is up. Figure that will be about 120 hours which will mean the transmission magnets will have some metal. Noticed you stayed with John Deere fluid, just curious if you would still stay with that particular fluid? Thanks for passing along your knowledge!
Thanks for viewing and the kind comments Gary. Re the fluid: I realize other DIY’ers used a different synthetic oil but: I figured the OEM brand lasted all these many years before I even knew it could be changed. Now that I’m aware, it only has to last a couple hundred hours. If you visit the Tuff Torq website, they make recommendations as to oil as well. I suspect the John Deere oil meets those specs so I’m good with the OEM brand. BTW: I also have an X-320 that I just changed the fluid on. It works great. I think the pumps are a bit stronger on the X-320 tranny.
Nice music.
@@jeffreybanks7128 Thank you
Excellent!
Thank you. Dean
Very good video.
Mine has drainplugs,think its doable to drop the oilpan without removing the gearbox. Looks like there is no guidepins 😔
Thanks for viewing....you 'can' drop the gearbox cover, 'but' be prepared for the drive gears and brake parts to fall out without a chance to see how they came out.
@@PilotViewProductions haha okey,can as in can't then.
This is exactly why I don’t promote adding drain plugs unless all you’re going to do is change the oil. Even then, on my model you can’t get to the filler plug without removing the fan and can’t remove the fan without dropping the transaxle.
Thats a clean mower to work on. Must have been used 1.5 hrs
Appreciate it but I think you heard it was 19-20 years old. Pressure washing helps before shooting a video. Appreciate it I.X. Dean
Your videos are top notch, Thanks For sharing!That is the cleanest Mower I have ever seen, Do you actually mow with it...lol...Just kidding, I subscribed to your channel, Keep up the great work!
Makes me laugh Bob cause of the hours that mower has on it. Pressure washer does wonders before filming. Appreciate the recognition of work that goes into the videos however and thanks especially for subscribing, it means more than you know. Dean
Hello, I just changed the oil and still have the same same problem. When it gets hot it struggles going up hill. Do you think maybe I need to change the filter?
Watch parts 2 and 3 please. Dean
The K46 is a serviceable transmission
Oh, I agree, but J.Deere says its not. "Oil change: sealed unit, service not recommended"
Could one leave the connection at 4:10 unplugged in order to keep the PTO running in forward and reverse?
Not sure Matt. Lemme know if you try it.
i need to do this...
You can do it Randy. Check out all 3 parts for a treat, especially part 3.
where did you buy the filter.. ok, I'll try to watch pat 3..
Can you do this without removing your Deck
‘Can’ you? Yes. Would I? Nope. I think it would take longer to have to reach around the deck and undo linkages, etc. than it would take just to remove the deck.
@@PilotViewProductions I ended up leaving the deck on and just taking the wheels off and using jack stands pretty easy
Maybe you still remember part # for the seal kit? Local Deere guys aren't too helpful for me
I got both seal sets from the guy in Canada whose contact info I put in the description section. I never knew the numbers but will try and find them for you soon if you wish.
@@PilotViewProductions Would appreciate it
@@mantaslaurinaitis8251 You probably already solved this, but in case it helps anyone else:
To find part numbers for Tuff Torq Transmissions, go to tufftorq.ordertree.com/ and search you Transmission's part number (not your tractor's p/n) and then choose the appropriate serial number range. Then on the right side, under "Diagrams" select "Parts" and you'll find an exploded view of the transmission along with a part listing including all kits available.
For example, when I search for my K46 P/N = 7A646084220 with serial number = K46BR0175375 (which corresponds to a JD X300 P/N = M0X300C150606) I find that my seal kit P/N = 1A646099141.
Also: Calling the people at Tuff Torq is effective. Real humans answer and they are super helpful.
Good luck!
@m.forrest5603
0 seconds ago
Great video, Dean. Thanks for being so thorough. The only thing I don't have is a chain hoist, or even access to overhead joists to support the body of the tractor. What would you recommend as an alternative? This guy has a proposal: czcams.com/video/2_3tla8fLT8/video.html. Do you have a better one?
I also noticed that he didn't remove the fan. Your thoughts?
Again, thanks for you help!
Michael
@@m.forrest5603 Far be it from me to be critical of someone else but since you asked… if I didn’t have a way to hoist the lawnmower from overhead, I would place a jack under both sides of the lawnmower from underneath. That way when all the attachment points are loosened, you can just roll the rear end out from under the body… secondly, removal of the fan is not that big of a deal, and prevents it from being soaked in oil when turned upside down.
These transmissions are junk. Everyone I know that has one has experienced a failure.
The one on the mower in this video lasted 20 years before there was a problem. That's junk? OK.