89-95 Toyota pickup 22RE - wiring diagram help / engine control, AFM, ECU, starting, fuel pump diag
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- čas přidán 5. 05. 2022
- This video covers major sections of the Toyota Pickup truck wiring and gives an overview of how the truck starts up the 22RE motor, keeps it running and how the associated fuel pump and EFI relays all function together to allow the truck to run. This video may be helpful in diagnosing starting problem and/or other electrical issues related to the early Toyota pickup trucks.
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My '89 longbed is getting tlc after sudden stop of motor. Great presentation with lots of info.
Thanks brother!
Amazing work! Thank you for uploading this. I appreciate the time you took. Ordering my book. I’m having starting issue.. identified corroded type b fuses, bad opening circuit relay and now going to test the fuel pump with the diagnostic port under the hood. This just helped solidify what I was thinking after reading other people’s posts and experiences. Will finally find out if the fuel pump is good and hopefully find the issue soon. Thank you!
That's great! Yeah, that manual is a life saver
This is great im ordering this for my 92 thank you. Keep up the videos I love watching them! Hi from California
Thanks Alex! Yeah, that manual is super helpful. It's definitely a must have if you are going to be doing any wiring on your truck.
Very informative about that “open circuit relay” for the fuel pump.
I liked it, it was a great help for my project, thank you boss.
de nada!
Huge help and good to know resource... just purchased this manual from eBay! I'm in the middle of a harness design for a Megasquirt 2 and (as I'm sure you know) the available wiring diagrams for this era of pickups is wrought with confusing/conflicting web sourced data! Can't wait to see what I'm missing with this. Great explanation as to how the circuit opening relay works... i cant wait to bypass it lol. Keep up the good stuff man!
Thanks! That's great to hear. I'd be interested to know how you like the Megasquirt 2 stuff.
May i have the link to get the manual, please🙏. sorry for my english 🤭
Ray God bless you excellent info, wealth of knowledge, I feel like an expert. Thank you.😁
Thanks!
And thanks for this really good video is amazing
Yes this was a great video its exactly what i have a problem with my 89 toy 22re carb 4cyl pickup sr5 . I am not getting any fuel up to my carb. the truck starts but no fuel to carb so all it does is turnes but wont start. i understand what you were saying but i still dont no what to do i need to have it done one time then i wont forget. because i changed all those relays the one by your left side of foot the one under steering coloumn and the one on passenger side the fuel pump one and one up by or under the hood and still got same results i think my problem is ground but see unless i see it done im screwed and ni am loosing on so many jobs that i may loose my house if i dont get my truck running so that i can get back to work. thank you Army Vet
Does your truck have an electric fuel pump? Usually when dealing with carburetors, I thought Toyota used a mechanical fuel pump mounted off the nose of the camshaft?
🙏 thank you
Wow thank you I have a 91 Toyota pickup that has a check engine light that comes on after 10-15mins of driving… has old corroded engine wiring harness on a newly rebuilt engine. Engine runs great until the check engine turns on. I’ve been to two different mechanics and they both say it’s the knock sensor code and they replace it and it keeps happening!
Yeah, a good/clean wiring harness with solid connections is very important. On my truck, I had similar issues. I had to pull the entire wiring harness off the motor and basically rebuild and understand it. That was a time consuming job, let me tell ya :)
yes just watched this i need physicaly to show how to check with volt meter or test light if possible
Awesome video if you could can you do a video on the blower motor wiring and the air-conditioned wiring.
thanks man.. I'll look into that. I'm not super familiar with the A/C stuff but I'll check the manual and see if I can figure anything out
@ray5961 The way you went over the other diagram was so easy to understand the way you explained it 😀
@@jasonscruggs986 Thanks! I appreciate that.
Good Morning Ray. I'm a huge fan of yours. So I'm building a 1989ntoyota pick up. But for some reason I forgot to take pics when I started deleting wiring from the fuse boxes/ECM. So my question is on the igniter there';s a few wiring there. I have the wiring to the distributor and coil. The other 3 that's here goes to the ECM. But that's where I get lost. Maybe you can help me out. Greatly appreciated it.
Thanks man! Yeah on the igniter let me know what you are struggling with. It has a number of wires. Here's the rough break down: Pin #1 B/L goes to the ECU - Pin #2 B/O also ECU - Pin #3 B/R goes to power at the ignition. Pin #4 B/Y goes to ECU. Pin #6 goes to the tach and also the Diag box (as IG-). You should also have two leads which run to the coil + and - terminals. As I remember, one is black and the other is kind of a cream color. I show it in one of my recent videos about upgrading the coil on my friend's truck. Let me know if you run into any other questions.
Wonderful Video ! . I've got the manuals with the full diagrams. Would be nice to have a pdf of the wiring diagrams
Thanks! Yeah, a PDF of all the wiring diagrams would be super helpful for sure.
@@ray5961 Why not just scan what you have??
Can you make a video on the headlight and running light circuits?
Are you located in the US or Canada or ? The circuits are a little different in some regions. Also, can you let me know specifically what you ware wanting to understand, so maybe I can focus more on specific areas?
I’m attempting to make a stand alone harness for my rock crawler and all i have is the complete engine harness and trying to figure out what wires i need to power and figure out a couple gauge wires like temperature ,
Yeah, you probably wanna get the Toyota electrical manual for your specific year. That will give you a great road map to everything. When I redid my engine harness, I had to use that extensively to figure out what everything was and what pins did what, etc. You can usually find them used on eBay - it's the manual with the silver cover.
Ty for the posting of the diagrams. Would a faulty MAF prevent my truck from starting?
Here is a copy of what I have done so far.
Aloha,
STOCK 94 Toyota Pickup 2.5 base 22RE 5 speed
No codes or check engine light with ign in on position
New fuel tank and pump assembly
Replaced 2 relays, at $9 ea made in Taiwan on e bay still won't start.
Fuel pump only runs when jumped Turns over won't start
Tested computer had 8 bad capacitors replaced them still no start.
Tested new relays, they open close, Relay once powered on, the 3 other terminals have 12v.
Used test light not meter had power and ground at pigtail to relay, jumped Wh/ Red with Blue pump runs.
Spark for all 4 cylinders is good, use inline test light on spark wires, again no meter
Sprayed starting fluid it wanted to run.:)
Pulled return fuel hose to tank, about a cup of fuel in 8 seconds with pump jumped and key on. Remember pump dose not run with key on.
New complete Timing kit about 20,000 mi ago.
ANY OTHER IDEA"S PLEASE AND THANK YOU
Yeah no sweat. Your truck doesn't technically have a MAF; rather it has what Toyota calls an AFM (air flow meter). If the contact points inside the AFM a burned, yes that will prevent the truck from starting. However, if you jumped the fuel pump manually and it still won't start, it's gonna be something different. Check your injectors also as well as the ground lead under the intake manifold where it bolts.
Hello Ray, thank you for the content, nicely presented.
Question: Do you know how to find the Toyota Service Manual, part number, similar to the 22RE, but is for the 3vze ( 6 cylinder) engine toyota 1989-95 ?
The only thing I could say would be maybe search eBay for auctions and see if they show the cover with the part # on there? That's usually your best source for factory service and electrical manuals (check completed auctions also).
Hi I can help you
Manual slib there is available for 22re and 6 cylinder
@ray5961 Hi Ray. First off, I want to thank you for the huge volume of excellent 22RE material you are putting out on CZcams. It's the best content for this platform by far and I appreciate all your hard work. I was hoping you may be able to help point me in the right direction with what seems to a be a fueling issue I'm having w/ my 22RE. Basically, the truck won't start unless I 'prime' the fuel pump with the Fp + B jumper in the diagnostics box. I have to turn the key to ON, wiggle the jumper in the box until I can hear the fuel pump run (requires a certain angle/pressure), let it run for a few seconds, and then I can start the truck. I can pull the jumper out after 'priming' and the truck will continue to run until I shut it off. Shut it off, and I need to do the whole sequence again. I replaced my COR, and tested both the new one and the old one and both are within FSM resistance tolerances. I have never replaced the fuel filter - going to do that next. Can you think of anything else that might cause this issue? Thanks Ray. :)
Thank you for the kind words there. If the truck runs okay once it's all fired up, I doubt it's the fuel filter. Did you check the starter relay? It's located up there to the upper right as you are looking at the fuse / junction box on the driver's side kick panel area. There's a relay in there which is responsible for sending power to the circuit opening relay; if that relay isn't working, then the circuit opening relay won't be getting the power it ends to turn on the fuel pump during cranking - so even if the circuit opening relay is functional, it won't have the power it needs to operate. You can check this by hooking a voltage meter up between pin #3 of the connector on the circuit opening relay harness connector (should be a black/white wire) and ground and seeing if you are getting +12 VDC when you crank over the starter. If not, then most likely there is a wiring or connector issue or the starter relay in the kick panel is malfunctioning. Also, on the circuit opening relay harness, you might wanna confirm that pin #6 (which is a white/black wire) is showing continuity to chassis ground.
@@ray5961 Thank you so much for the quick reply! I'll be heading out to the truck in the next few days to check these items and report back. :)
@@jska413 Let me know what you find out. If you need to contact me directly, email address is in the 'about' tab on the channel there. Good luck!
@@ray5961 so I’m only getting 9.3V between pin 3 and ground when cranking. Battery is fine at 12V. Tested resistance between pins 1 and 2 of the starter relay and it’s 54.6, which is out of the 60-80 range in the FSM. I pulled my EFI relay which I believe is the same type, and it tests at 75.6. Think I just need a new starter relay?
@@jska413 you're gonna see a voltage drop when cranking. Test the relay and see if it clicks when you hit the pins with 12 volts - I usually bend the tabs on the cover very carefully and slide the cover
off so I can see if anything is corroded inside. What's the exact voltage on your battery? 12.5 or 12.68 or what? Google car battery voltage chart also
I have a 1994 2wd pickup with the 22re that one day that my brother had out and it overheated and blew the head gasket. After carefully takin everything apart, labeling all the hoses so I know they are in the right spot when it goes back together, I finally got it all back together and made sure my timing was right but when I went to crank it over it turns but doesn't seem to want to fire. I checked fuses, spark, fuel and basically everything I could find to troubleshoot it. It has spark and fuel is getting to the injectors but not into the cylinder, I checked for injector pulse and does not seem to have any. I took the injectors out to test, and they seem to open just fine, same with the EFI and starter relay. So my question basically is would this be an ecu problem where it has gone or could it be something else I'm missing? And is there any way to test the ecu with it out of the vehicle?
Check to make sure you have a good connection on the injector ground wires. Those usually are the gang of brown wires which bolt up under the intake manifold - you know that support that goes from under the intake runners to the block? There are some wires which group there and bolt up underneath there. Those are the ground wires for the injector. Get a volt meter and check to ensure those wires have a solid path to ground and also check to see if you are actually getting any 12V firing to the fuel injector connectors themselves. You can alternatively take an electrical clamp/wire and manually ground the injector wires directly to the negative side of the battery (or frame) to ensure a good return path and see if they start firing. Additionally, if you have gone crazy painting the block and things, you could have inadvertently lost a ground point some place (due to paint insulation). Make sure the block as well as the valve cover are both grounded, also I run a dedicated ground strap between the cylinder head and block just for good measure. If you have fuel pressure to the fuel rail and there's no fuel coming into the combustion chambers, then most likely you have a fault in the injectors firing. As far as the ECU having issues, those Toyota 22RE ECU's are nearly bullet proof. As long as the connectors are clean, the circuit board inside the ECU should be totally fine. Make sure you have good grounds to the frame for things. I'd also do a compression check just to make sure and confirm that when cylinder #1 is at TDC, the rotor in the distributor cap is actually pointing towards plug #1 and not plug #4 by mistake. Additionally, on a fresh motor, sometimes it's easy for the plugs to gas foul out when trying to start the motor. You might want to pull the plugs and blow them out with compressed air just to be sure. Keep me posted and feel free to ask any additional questions. Good luck!
I have a 1993 Toyota pickup.. just put new Distributor, plugs , plug wires and injectors . # 3 cly is not working meaning the plug is firing no fuel. Does the wires on 1 & 3 Ty together before they get back to ECU?
Yes, injectors 1 and 3 fire in unison and then 2 and 4 fire together; the injector wires merge in the harness under there - so the lead for 1 & 3 have a single wire running back to the ECU and same goes for 2 & 4. If you are seeing injector #1 working but not #3, then either there is an electrical connector issue @ #3 or the injector itself is stuck. Did you happen to flow test the injectors before installing them or at least hit them all w/ 12 volts to see if they were all clicking on and off?
I'm having issues with my 10 amp gages fuse blowing out , I disconnected the wiring from the cluster and is still blowing fuses
That means you have a short some place in the wires themselves, most likely. Blowing a 10 amp fuse requires pretty much direct wire to frame contact. You can weld light sheet metal with 10 amps almost. Track down the break in the wires and/or where something has rubbed through and made contact with the frame. Fuses only blow when there is something seriously wrong going on.
Can you show me how the dash dimmer switch wire's up
As I remember, there are just two wires. It goes to a variable resistor / rheostat switch.
Do you have anything on the 1983 TOYOTA TOYOACE Diesel elctricial schematics
no, but if you check ebay and search for electrical manual you might be able to find something for sale (that's how I found my manual).
how are you, i have a 1989 and after running for about 10-15 min the EFI 15-amp fuse blows, what do you think might be causing it to blow the fuse?
Typically that will be a short, which is making contact with the frame and/or a ground wire, etc. (some place in the wiring harness, such as a worn through insulator or something). The EFI 15A fuse primarily protects the power going to the ECU as well as power going to fuel pump via the circuit opening relay. I believe it also powers the heaters in the O2 sensors, so that might be something to check (those take a bit to heat up, so it could be shorting. Also (at least on my truck) the harness running back to the O2 sensors was pretty beat up from age, so you might want to check the condition of yours and make sure it's not making contact with the frame and/or exhaust system / pipes. You could try un-plugging the two harnesses that go to the O2 sensors just as a test (the truck will most likely run like hell, but it might be worth a shot to diagnose things). The fact that it takes 10 to 15 minutes makes me think it could be heat related (as I say, maybe something to do with the O2 sensors). That fuse also powers something called THA in the AFM, but I don't think that would be involved (and plus I don't know for sure what that is without further research into Toyota's computer control stuff.
@@ray5961 thanks for the info.
Hi , I got 89 Toyota pick 2.4 L MFI California emissions, code 27 o2 sensor came on 2 years ago , I replaced 8 o2 sensor 8 ECM I rewire all the connection from ecm y tu o the sensor , all ground are check fuel pressure , new fuel pump new fuel regulator, and more several parts , any ecm let me reset it , is like the code is there before starting the veh so I just plug it and jump the terminals and code is there , any idea I been doing more repairs the one I did not mentioned now , but every used ECM don’t let me reset it , is like the code is permanent any help
Code 27 is usually the downstream O2 sensor (the one behind the cat). It may be the heater circuit or a faulty ground. It could also be your truck is running rich or lean perhaps. It's difficult to say. I'd check to make sure the O2 sensor is heating up and that the wires which supply current are all good. If the code isn't clearing on its own, then you most likely haven't solved whatever the issue is. To reset the ECU, you just have to pull the 15A EFI fuse for about 5 minutes. Sounds like you have some issue lurking around over there.
Ok Ray I want to say very well done I like the way you go very slowly I watched both videos this one goes into more depth . Ok the one you dont cover in your dignostic and the issue I an having and as you know I had no voltage at B + and after I took the ignition switch out and cleaned and serviced it I now have B voltage. But with key on I have no voltage at FP port . That is the one thing you didnt cover is zero voltage at FP port with ignition on. I wasnt able to crank because the engine was rusted and seized and as you know I barely got it broke loose last night. I tell you what I am a happy man I would of had to give that truck away if I could not have gotten it un locked. Ok so here is the question again . If I have no power at FP relay with ignition on and the B + terminal energized what causes the no voltage at FP with battery on B + Also I did go direct from battery to FP port and the fuel pump is not working as far as I can tell. So back to my question is part of the FP relay smoked. There has to be a reason I am not getting any voltage at that port with ignition on? Thanks for the video and trying to help me.
Glad the video helped. So on the Fp port, it's a little confusing because it's part of that crazy dual coil circuit opening relay. It definitely takes a while to fully conceptualize what is going on with that area. So here's the thing which might be confusing you: the circuit opening relay is only ever turned on in one of two states - one, when you are cranking the starter; two, when the motor is running and causing the little door inside the AFM to open (which causes its switch to close circuits FC and E1 (thus closing the circuit opening relay)). In those cases, you would have voltage present at Fp (if you place a volt meter across Fp and ground). However, when the motor is not running, the circuit opening relay is not energized, so there is not going to be any voltage present at Fp. In that state, Fp merely serves as a connection point for applying voltage directly to the fuel pump from a testing standpoint (either by jumping across to +B [if the ignition is ON) or by jumping to the car battery. Unless I'm mistaken, there is no other path where Fp can see voltage - which is why you aren't seeing voltage when you check it w/ a volt meter. You can try this: attach a volt meter between Fp and ground, then crank the starter and see if the needle on the volt meter moves. You could also reach into the AFM and nudge the flap a little, which should also cause there to be 12 volts at Fp. If you trace that blue wire that runs from the Fp pin in the diagnostic box in the video there, you should see what I am talking about. Let me know what you find out! :-)
@@ray5961 Ok you threw me off Ray I went to Ford Motor craft and GM tech school and have worked on a lot of EFI systems. And on every system I have worked on with the key on for initial the ECM sends a short signal to the fuel pump through the relay and pressurizes the system you can hear the fuel pump cycle the initial professionalization for about five seconds. Every EFI system I have worked on always has the circuit from the ECM to pressurize the system on initial key on. Then as you say when going to crank your cam or crank or in this case the mass air signal from the sensors sends a signal to the ECM to pulse the fuel pump again and once it fires and you go back to ignition then the ECM and controls send a constant signal to the relay and the fuel pump system. That is on all EFI systems I have ever worked on. Your reply has thrown me off Ray you are telling me the initial key on is dead and there is no fuel pump activation and no voltage to that port until you go into crank mode then start. Is this what you are telling me? I have never worked on a system that is dead with initial key on to pressure the fuel system and fuel rails and injectors with no signal from the ECM. This is perplexing to me .
@@madmanmechanic8847 Well, your Toyota ain't made by Ford or GM...
@@ray5961 Its not just GM and Ford Ray its a lot of imports I have worked on also has the same concept good luck
@@madmanmechanic8847 Something else to keep in mind is that this truck has OBD1, whereas most of the stuff you are probably used to working on is OBD2. In the OBD2 world - even Toyota - it's quite possible the initial pressure to the fuel rail is handled by the ECU (as out outlined before). However, with the 89-95 trucks, it's handled with that setup that is linked off the starter relay circuit. So if the truck you have is an older Toyota (e.g. 89-95 pickup with a 22RE), then the system should work as outlined in this video and as the wiring diagram shows, the initial burst of fuel pressure comes via the 2nd part of that circuit opening relay when you turn the key to "start" on the ignition. The ECU does control a 5th injector (bolted to the intake plenum) which acts sort of like a choke also (but that's not covered in this video). Anyway, so what's the latest with your truck? Does it wanna fire up or ?
key out, all off, measured continuity i.e. some ohms readings, between ECU's +B, or +B1, to E21 or body ground is NORMAL? or is it SHORT inside ECM? thx
Well, B+ ties into the ECU and a few other points, but basically think of it like a direct lead back to the +12 VDC on your battery. Instead of checking continuity on B+ what you really wanna do is confirm that you see 12 volts DC between B+ and the ground / chassis points when the ignition is switched to "ON". You'll see continuity across B+ because it's tied into the battery, the fuel injectors, etc. and some of those components (and the car battery itself) have copper and/or chemical pathways that meet - just like you'll see continuity across the light bulbs due to the filament inside them (unless they are LED's). What you're seeing sounds normal yeah. As long as you have +12 volts DC on B+ in the diagnostic box when the ignition key is ON, then that should be good.
@@ray5961 thanks for ur details, ur a good teacher.
@@forgetfulme1719 Thanks. Anytime!
Not getting power to my b+ port in the diagnostic port. Replaced the fuel pump and now I have this issue. Jumped the fp straight from battery and fuel pump ran. It has to be the efi relay correct?
B+ is only energized when the key is switched to "ON", so keep that in mind. But you've got the right idea. If the key is on and there is no power at B+, then it would have to either be the 7.5A ignition fuse in the left kick panel, or the the 15A EFI fuse and/or EFI relay not working. You can remove the EFI relay and test it manually or listen to see if it's clicking. You can also open those up real carefully and clean them and get them working again. Also sometimes they just stick.. so you can kinda knock them lightly and sometimes jar them back into working. Check the fuses and wiring, but you're on the right path.
@@ray5961 thanks a lot for the reply!! Yes with key on I only have power to the top right connection on efi relay slot if I’m standing by passenger side fender facing the motor. No power at my COR. Not sure what changed while I relaxed fuel pump but I’m getting very frustrated! Thanks again for the video and the reply!
@@rrpyland On the 4 pins in the EFI relay, two should show plus 12 volts when the key is on and one should show continuity with ground, while the other should show continuity with B+ in the diag box. So you can use a volt meter to figure out what's what. Did you check to make sure the EFI and IGN fuses are ok?
When cold the engine will start but when warm it won't. I have to wait a bit before it starts again. What would do cause thus?
I've heard a couple people mention having that same issue. I'm not totally sure what would result in that happening. I've heard it could be due to leaking fuel injectors (i.e. flooding the motor). Next time it happens, try pulling out your spark plugs and smell them / examine them and see if they are wet with gas maybe.
could anyone explain what the blue box labeled speed sensor and check engine is ? I'm having trouble with both the speedometer reading and the check engine light is why I ask . the check engine light is on all the time and will not flash a code no matter what I do and the speedometer reads erratically until I drive it around for a bit then it reads fine
Did you try jumping the diag box to display the code? I forgot which pins it is, but you have to jump things and then it should flash the code as I recall. Also, on the speed sensor stuff, is your truck automatic or a manual transmission. Some of that speed sensor stuff helps the transmission know when to shift as I recall. On the manual gearboxes, they usually use a cable though.
yes I used the paperclip between the pins, pulled the fuse ,disconnected the battery did it all multiple times , when the paperclip is in the check engine light stays on constantly it will not flash@@ray5961
Manuel tranny with brand new speed sensor purchased directly from Toyota 300$usd@@ray5961
I'm needing the wiring diagram for the charging system. I was wondering if you had one
Let me know what you need specifically
@@ray5961 the wires from the alternator plugs to wherever they go somewhere something is killing my alternator I'm on my 3rd one in 2 months and I not sure what the reading on each plug wire should be with alternator unplugged and the key on but not started
@@richardhoffman689 When you say "killing them" what do you mean specifically? Sometimes running the alternator belt a little too tight will side load the bearings and cause them to overheat and seize, etc. I learned that lesson once, the hard way, when I was about 40 miles away from civilization...
Also, if you are using aftermarket and/or rebuilt alternators from some place like Rock Auto or AutoZone or anything like that, that could be the reason also. Most of those aren't worth a damn.
On my truck, I'm running a 140A unit from LCE, but it's actually made by another company and they just resell them. You wanna stick with either Toyota OEM or Denso (same thing basically) or something very, very high quality.
The other thing you have to be careful of is what RPM you are running them at - especially if you have changed your pulley system around, as that can have an impact. The alternator itself should have a chart which shows where it makes X amount of power based on how fast it's turning, etc. The other thing is that if you are running a lithium Ion battery and it drains, that can sometime overload things and fry the wiring harness. Along these same lines, high output alternators often require additional wiring (i.e. larger wires) so they don't over heat the cables. Same can be true if you are powering all sorts of things in your truck and suddenly there is a big current draw all at once. I had to re-run the main alternator wire on my truck, using a much larger cable, to help avoid this risk. I think I have a video on the channel which covers some of it and shows the circuit breakers and all that.
Anyway, contact me using the email address on the about page of my CZcams channel here, and I can send you a couple pictures that might help out.
It's not working, it tells me to enter a valid email address
@@richardhoffman689 You might need to have a google account setup and/or be logged into CZcams with an account or something. Post your address here and I'll email you the info I have.
Thank you for that video first thing thats come close to my problem. I have an 89 toyota 4 runner with 22re. i have replaced the fuel pump and filter thinking they were the culprit. I'm not getting power to my circuit opening relay shouldnt it have power with the key on? does mine also have a main relay my chiltons doesnt show its location my fuse box in the drivers side kick panel doesnt look like the one in my book.Any help you can show me on here I would very much appreciate. Thank You.
The circuit opening relay is not energized when the key is in the on position. As described in this video (if I recall correctly what I was talking about in there), the circuit opening relay either gets power under one of two situations: 1, when you crank the starter (it trigger that relay which will turn the fuel pump on briefly). 2, when the motor is turning and vacuum coming through the intake pipe pulls open the door on the AFM - this in turn connects the contacts inside which provides power). If you want to help rule things out, you can manually turn the fuel pump on in the diagnostic box by just jumping across Fp and B+, which will turn the fuel pump on and keep it running.. then you can see if the truck will fire up.
@@ray5961 Thankyou Ray, I thought if the key was merely on that the circuit opening relay would have power feeding into it. When I connect Fp and B+ I get nothing pump doesn't run. Also when I connect Fb directly to my battery the pump doesn;t run either. The pump is new a bosch from napa If I connect a 12v battery directly to the blue wire on the pump and negative to ground it runs. Am I going the right direction here or is it in the air flow box by the air filter. Thank you again for your help Ray.
@@arrnoldsather9807 If you run the Fp lead directly to +12 volts on your car battery and the fuel pump doesn't run, then you most likely have a break in the wiring harness and/or connector. Fp is a direct wire lead to the fuel pump. B+ is switched power off the ignition switch, so the key would need to be in the ON position for B+ to be supplying 12 volts. Check across B+ and ground with a volt meter to ensure the ignition key is turning 12 volts on when you turn it on. But if you are jumping Fp directly to your battery, then some place you have a short/break in the wiring going to the fuel pump I would say. Try checking continuity between the blue wire in the harness and the frame and from the harness connector near the fuel pump to the Fp lead in the diagnostic box. Sounds like a broken wire some place to me.
@@ray5961 Ok great I have some things to check can't THANK YOU enough. I'll get back to you. Arnie in Spokane 100 right now so after the sun gives a little.
@@arrnoldsather9807 You're most welcome. Let me know if you have any other questions
Hey Ray is normal that my truck have power in the O2 sensors even when the truck is off ?
I don't believe so. Sounds like the EFI relay may be stuck on. Try pulling the 15A EFI fuse and see if the power disappears. I'm guessing you are talking about the white/red wire to the O2 sensor? As far as I know that shouldn't have power when the Ignition is off.
@@ray5961 ok thankyou so much buddy apreciate it
Hey Ray I found the problem, somebody make a bridge from the blue and red wire on the fuse box to the white red on the check connector. Crazy isn’t
@@estuardoleiva5647 You just never know what crazy things people do out there :-)
now...just need a book that tells you how to interpret the block diagram for the ECM pinout...
That's no joke. I'd love to see the programming logic for the ECU. With that said, if you download the Toyota TCCS manual online, it will give you a sense of what is taking place in there. They cover some of the ECU signal inputs.
@@ray5961 you don't happen to know of a source for more explicit 22re wiring diagrams?...Ones that actually have the true to life...show , for example, Black Wire, Red Stripes , 2 silver dots....goes to X ?.....These FSM (AllData) ones drive me nuts...
@@lensmanicfeleven1847 Search eBay for the electrical manual for your model (the one with the silver cover).. those are the most comprehensive ones available.
Where is my fuse for my speedometer at 1991 Toyota pickup 4*4
That might be a cable driven speedometer on that year. Did you check to see if it has a cable or electrical harness? If the entire gauge cluster is out, it's the fuse box in the left kick panel by your feet.. there's a gauge fuse in there. I don't believe the speedometer has a dedicated fuse. What symptoms are you seeing over there? Also, manual or auto gearbox?
Any chance you can send me that pdf
I can send what I have... I'm not sure if it's a image file or PDF, but sure no problem. Let me know your email or something
Useful video , but speaking too fast, sometimes the voice disappears and mouse moves too fast disappearing from the screen. 😢