Nice tutorial video, I should have watch your video before I replace my clutch plate. I mess up with the judder spring and the friction plate with the sharp edges. At 05.25 which one should go first there are 2 springs, the thin or thick? Need your advice some mechanic says, i dont need to install the 2 judder spring and get the 5 plates with the same size. As in your video 4 linning are with the same size and 1 is smaller. Thanks, cheers from Brunei.
It's actually not impossible to remove the hub bolt without the impact driver or the clutch holding tool, what I did was put two iron bars locked on the back wheel and put it on fifth so that there is less torque, and then I used force to remove the bolt. I hope it helps those without these tools.
I'm having a problem with the 'snap'. I broke the one arm off the clutch pressure plate (didn't have a clutch holding tool, and the impact driver wasn't doing it so braced the plate by the 4 'arms' - don't do that). Anyway, I got a new clutch pressure plate but it isn't 'snapping' like the old one did, and as in the video... It squished completely flat as if it has snapped but just falls apart when turned over... I tried putting the whole assembly back in but it sort of separates... Not sure if this is OK or how important the 'snap' is.. Any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks for the help, changed the clutch on my girlfriends 140 a few weeks ago. problem is, she somehhow already burnt it out. Is there any reason you could think of why the clutch would burn out after one 4 hour ride? Shes pretty high on rpms sometimes letting clutch out real slow if that might be why?
If the clutch cable isn't set right, the clutch will slip a bit the entire ride, heat up, and bake the clutch plates to oblivion. My kid did this with one of our bikes. Make sure the clutch grabs once the lever is 1/2 to 2/3 of the way released. Also, make sure that when the bike is in 1st or 2nd gear that the rear wheel skids across the pavement when you try to push it with the clutch out. If the rear tire rolls, the clutch isn't grabbing. The best way to test for a slipping clutch is to take the bike on the road, ride at about 10-15 miles per hour, shift all the way up into 5th gear, and then give it full throttle. If the engine revs up without accelerating the bike, the clutch is slipping.
This was very helpful. My first time replacing the clutch....works perfectly now. Thank you.
Glad it helped
Thanks. Very accurate and well made video. 10/10 from the UK
Very well put together and in formative video. Thank you for the help!
this is how all how to vids should be formatted
Thank you this helped a ton!
Excellent. Thank you.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks man!
Nice tutorial video, I should have watch your video before I replace my clutch plate. I mess up with the judder spring and the friction plate with the sharp edges. At 05.25 which one should go first there are 2 springs, the thin or thick? Need your advice some mechanic says, i dont need to install the 2 judder spring and get the 5 plates with the same size. As in your video 4 linning are with the same size and 1 is smaller. Thanks, cheers from Brunei.
It's actually not impossible to remove the hub bolt without the impact driver or the clutch holding tool, what I did was put two iron bars locked on the back wheel and put it on fifth so that there is less torque, and then I used force to remove the bolt. I hope it helps those without these tools.
Video was easy to follow! How similar do you suppose this would be to a klx125?
Thank you
I'm having a problem with the 'snap'. I broke the one arm off the clutch pressure plate (didn't have a clutch holding tool, and the impact driver wasn't doing it so braced the plate by the 4 'arms' - don't do that).
Anyway, I got a new clutch pressure plate but it isn't 'snapping' like the old one did, and as in the video... It squished completely flat as if it has snapped but just falls apart when turned over... I tried putting the whole assembly back in but it sort of separates... Not sure if this is OK or how important the 'snap' is.. Any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks for the help, changed the clutch on my girlfriends 140 a few weeks ago. problem is, she somehhow already burnt it out. Is there any reason you could think of why the clutch would burn out after one 4 hour ride? Shes pretty high on rpms sometimes letting clutch out real slow if that might be why?
If the clutch cable isn't set right, the clutch will slip a bit the entire ride, heat up, and bake the clutch plates to oblivion. My kid did this with one of our bikes. Make sure the clutch grabs once the lever is 1/2 to 2/3 of the way released. Also, make sure that when the bike is in 1st or 2nd gear that the rear wheel skids across the pavement when you try to push it with the clutch out. If the rear tire rolls, the clutch isn't grabbing. The best way to test for a slipping clutch is to take the bike on the road, ride at about 10-15 miles per hour, shift all the way up into 5th gear, and then give it full throttle. If the engine revs up without accelerating the bike, the clutch is slipping.
Can you give me a shot
I didn’t this and now there is no resistance on my cable my clutch is not working
Did you figure it out I hav the same problem
Figured it out ordered a new clutch cable bc mine was stretched hope this helps any one else
Pls give me a shout!