FiTech Ultimate LS EFI Review and Tips LSX S10
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- In this video I go over some Pros and Cons on the FiTech Ultimate LS EFI system. I also share tips that aren't in the instructions.
The key to a good installation is proper wiring.
I also upgrade the rear differential to an 8.8” Ford. I also installed Caltracs traction bars. Check out the video series here. • How to swap a Ford 8.8...
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PARTS USED IN THIS VIDEO
FiTech Ultimate LS kit amzn.to/39KOIJt
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases - Krátké a kreslené filmy
Check out the link in the description for the FiTech kit used in this video.
Pete is there a way to contact you to ask a few questions? I have the same kit as this video and got the motor to start finally but have yet to get it to idle. I'm taking it to have it dyno tuned Thursday but was hoping to get it idling and drive around the block and on the trailer
What is your combo? Engine displacement, cam?
Everyone uses the stock throttle cable works perfect if you had a 4.3 mine works perfect and i swapped with a 5.7 however i use a holley terminator x max and havethe 12.3 holley dash
Great video I appreciated the walk thru of the controller. Very detailed and answered some questions I had on the fitech stuff.
John Beery thanks for watching.
Awesome video sir.. One of the few detailed videos out there for this ecu
Great job buddy! Could Only Hope to be as Good as You when a problem happens!!
Thanks you answered alot of questions I had
Very informative video Pete, I was looking at FITech and Holley, but I'll probably start with the factory stuff.
There’s pros and cons to each way of doing it. If you already have an intake, fuel rail and injectors, harness and pcm, go with factory. If you need all of that stuff look into one of these kits.
Outstanding thanks I just purchased a LS-1 with that set up
Awesome video! I’ve always been curious how this kit compares to buying a car intake/injectors,tune,etc that most people need when they LS Swap a car.
Sub’d for future videos!
This may be the best video I watched about the ultimate LS. Thank you.
Thank you. It’s still a pretty new system so there probably isn’t that many of them out there.
@@PetesGarageandperformance hey how much fuel pressure these the 500hp Fitech unlimited ls supposed to have cause mine is running rich and gas mixing with the oil and I have my fuel pressure on 50psi Fitech told me it need to be on 58psi tell me something I think I got bad injectors
Ezra Nettles it is set up to be run at 58psi. Is it running rich on the screen compared to the commanded afr? Have you pulled the spark plugs and looked at them? Is it both banks or just one bank? On this truck it would run rich when the alternator would stop charging. What is your alternator setup?
@@PetesGarageandperformance yes I have pull the spark plugs they was black and smutty so I change them cause the motor will not start up with out fresh plugs my alternator 300amp it's charging well my digital gauge was showing 18.8 on charge
@@PetesGarageandperformance I forgot it's not set up to run that I have 2001 lq4 with the 799 heads swap and upgrade rockers @timing gear @ chain btr stage 4 cam with the 500hp Fitech unlimited ls with transmission control I don't know how much fuel pressure this motor supposed to have to run right with no problems
Pete! Excellent video intro! I hope more people start jumping on your channel, great video!!!
Thank you very much. I hope so too!
@@PetesGarageandperformance I have a question that has been bugging me... the gauges... you setup an OEM unit to send to CANBUS dashboard? ... Lets say i have a stripped-down-bare Porsche 944 waiting on an LS swap... would i just have to run a bunch of extra sensors are wires for aftermarket gauges? it is kind of odd the FItech didn't at least have an output for a legit racedash or something... 🤔🤔🤔
I’m pretty sure the 944 has analog inputs to the dash. So you would have to put the Porsche coolant temp sensor into the passenger head, Porsche oil pressure sensor if it had one in the LS (the ls doesn’t need the oil pressure info to run, it’s just for the gauge), the tach signal comes from the fitech, also the fitech has the speedo output. I don’t know if the 944 has an electronic or cable speedometer though. BTW thanks for sharing my video. I subscribed.
@@PetesGarageandperformance haha, i tossed the 944's oem dash. ^_^ last question... i swear! haha. if i was using the LM33 5.3L aluminum block LS engine, what would be a good camshaft for high-revving off-road racing? currently i have an LS9 cam in my shopping basket with trunnions and dual valve springs and chromolly pushrods... hoping for at least 7k rpm redline... and about 350rwhp...
If you want a high strung race engine you’ll want a way more aggressive cam than the ls9. I would look up PatG on ls1tech.com and have him custom spec you a cam. You’ll probably want something with at least .600” lift and mid 230s duration. I’ve tuned tons of ls engines and the ones with custom speced cams are usually better than off the shelf cams. Definitely better than any factory cams.
Nice video thinking about doing once I decide to do my LS swap on my 72 Monte
Nice! An old Monte. I tuned a 6.0 turbo 71 Monte and it was pretty cool. Had room for days in front of the engine for a turbo. Old muscle cars are perfect for a kit like the fitech. As with any fuel injection system the fuel system itself is the hardest part. Good luck.
If s10 LSX swaps are your thing be sure to subscribe. We are going to be doing a Ford 8.8 rear end swap in this truck! Stay tuned and thanks for watching!
With Everything you had to look at and trouble shoot, what's his Bill? Lol Your a Fountain of Knowledge! Thanks for the video!
Yeah there was quite a few bugs to work out. I actually had to fix the wiring where the previous guy "fixed" the headlamps, ignition switch, and fuel pump wiring. It's running good now and everything works!
Amazing video
gary jacques thank you!
Hey bud! Great video. In the midst of wiring my harness/kit up. How did you wire in the wire labeled brake? Thanks for your time
Taylow this vehicle was a manual so we didn’t wire the brake wire. It is used to unlock the torque converter clutch. I can’t remember if it needs power or ground when the brakes are applied.
@Pete'sGarage Thanks for the video. By far the best on CZcams. Interesting swap choice! 100% agree that the factory ECU would have been best on this vehicle. I personally consider this system best for muscle swaps as most people running things such as electric fans have already wired relays and aftermarket fuse blocks. I installed this system on my 72 nova with a LM7 engine but have yet to complete fuel and exhaust systems. Question: regarding the alternator issues. My donor engine came from a 05 Tahoe running the 2 pin alternator. Fitech uses a 4 pin plug. I ordered a 4 to 2 pin adaptor and hoping it will work fine. What pinouts did you change? There is no possible way to connect the fitech harness to a 2 pin alternator withought some type of adapter.
Najee Turner I had to change the plug to the two pin one. I used the 05 Silverado schematic to see which terminal on the plug was the F and L. I can look it up in a bit and get back to you.
Great video! No drama or clickbait and right to the good stuff. I will be converting a 71 C10 w 5.3 (LS2 cam) + T5 trans from Edelbrock/MSD carbs setup to 70050 this weekend. Hopefully easy swap. My buddy is running FiTech Go600 w Fuel Commander on a 383 SBC in his '72 Chevelle and loves it. I think like you saw with the poor wiring a lot of the negative comments on FiTech are related to poor install techniques such as bad grounds etc. Thanks for sharing your experiences with FiTech!
Yes your results will rely on having proper wiring techniques. All of the connections need to be solid and sealed along with good grounds and power source. Just make sure your fuel system is set up properly and you’re good to go. Thanks for watching and good luck.
Good evening Pete, I have a few questions about the FiTech system being used in Tandem GM ECU in order for the gauge cluster to work, could you help me with this via a diagram? Or point me to a link etc?… I appreciate the content and hope to hear back!
By chance do you have the pin out for using the factory ECU for the gauge? I'm in the same situation. I love the Fitech system tho
Awesome video. Do you have more info on how you made all the gauges work? I have a 2.2 with a nv1500 5 speed. Planning to swap a 5.3 and nv3500 into my sonoma and would rather keep factory gauges. If you have a video or could do one about making them work that would be great thanks.
I would use a factory ls1 pcm and integrate it into the factory harness connections at the underhood fuse block and the connectors near the pcm. You would need to compare wiring schematics between your truck and the ls1 pcm to see where to connect the wires to. Or you could just buy a harness and pcm from Current Performance and be done with it.
How you doing I have a 1996 gmc jimmy ive put a ls motor in, I have the fitech system but need help wiring it up. I was wondering if I could get your help on to wire it up if you have time.
Great video 👍 I have issue with mine I installed a fuel gauge on fuel rail at prime I see 60 psi at run I see 80psi I’m using the corvette fuel regulator/filter with return to tank any ideas could I have a bad regulator I was told I should be around 58psi
Yes some of the aftermarket corvette filter/regulators show that exact symptom if it fails. Also if you have a big fuel pump it might be too much for the vette filter. If you have a high flow pump then you might have to go with an aftermarket regulator.
There's a review on Summit where the guy shows a picture down his fuel rail and it was filled with metal shavings of aluminum. Same problem you had. Can't believe they leave the factory like that.
Damn little Chinese kid wasn’t doing I’m his job
Can you show how you did the alternator. I have a dr44 alt (2 wire). And my fi tech plug is a 4 wire plug. Thanks
DWARSCO I’ll see what I can do when he drops this truck back off with me for the rear end swap
What year S10 is this? The gauges look pretty modern. A walkaround would be great.
Glad I used Current Performance. A little pricey, but a nice factory style package with only 4 wires to spice and you to tune.
Yeah the FiTech is a great option if you don’t have an intake, fuel rails, injectors, throttle body. But if the swap is going into a newer GM vehicle that uses class2 for the gauges then a factory setup might be a better choice. Now your intake setup... maybe a Holley Dominator might have been the best option. Simply because those ITBs were beyond what GM had in mind! But it still works.
The best use of the FiTech kit would definately be an older car so the engine bay stays clutter free and no use of piggy backing systems. Redundancy drives me nuts, unless it's hidden.
Hello Pete, I have the exact same set up I have a 2000 s10 that had a 2.2 and now has the fitech ultimate ls. I was able to get the tach and most the guages working great but I still have to found the correct wire to tie into for the speedometer. Do you happen to remember what wire that was I would be forever grateful. I know this video is a few years old but I figured I would ask.
Where do i connect the tach wire on a chevy cluster? I have a fitech ultimate ls any help would be appreciated. I haven't figured out the speedo yet either. If I figure it out Ill let you know .
Where you get that air cleaner at?
Finishing an LS swap on a 2002 Lexus GS300 with this FiTech 750hp kit... how involved or difficult was to integrate the factory ECU to the FiTech to have your factory gauges and climate control work?
I’m not sure how the Lexus gets its tach and speedometer signals but those are the only two outputs that the fitech has. If the gauge cluster has a separate input for tach and speedo then you just hook the two fitech wires to those. Then you’d have to put the Lexus oil pressure sender and coolant temp sensor on the engine and thin out the factory harness so just those two things were on it. On this s10 the fuel level sensor also went through the PCM so that wiring was left in tact also. You can put the factory Lexus coolant temp sensor into the rear of the right head. There’s a plug you can remove. You may have to adapt the threads of the Lexus sensor, or you might get lucky and have it fit. You can also ditch the ls oil pressure sensor since it doesn’t actually do anything and put the Lexus sender in its place.
As for climate control, leave the Lexus stuff there and just tie the “a/c on” wire of the fitech to the power wire that goes to the compressor clutch. So the fitech knows when the a/c is on and can turn the fans on and also alter the idle slightly. So you’ll also need to make the fans controlled by the fitech and not the Lexus ECM. Just utilize the factory fan relays and have the trigger wire hooked to the fitech fan outputs.
I need help with my set up Pete
I'm doing similar swap but with factory harness. Its a 2002 chevy s10 i have removed factory ecm to put in my vats deleted, emissions removed 2001 chevy 1500 ecm i have kept the body harness to inside gauges and some of the pink key on wires starter relay and fuel pump i have built my own stand alone harness. Question is how do i keep factory gauges. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
To keep the factory gauges you only need to program the factory pcm as I believe an 02 Tahoe. It uses the class2 data bus from the pcm for coolant temp, battery voltage, oil pressure, and fuel level. The speedometer and tach are separate outputs from the pcm. You’ll need to program the pcm to output either a 4cyl or 6cyl signal depending on what the truck originally came with.
Fault 118 I wanna say is the vss....mine always come on too but I'm running a th350
I built a 17000 mi 6.0 for a car swap with same fitech..I just lucked into a super clean s10..so car project is on hold ..its same swap as in this video..please tell me what wires out of factory ecm work you speedo and tach ..do i just wire them to speedo and tach on fitech ecm..also is
oil pressure just using factory sender and wires ..do you have a shop where i can call you..your help is so appreciated.
The factory ECM does have specific wires for speedo and tach. All of the other gauges are transmitted over the data line. So if you want any other gauges to work, you’ll have to use the factory PCM to just run gauges like I did in this video. I’m in the Kansas City, Missouri area. If you’re local I could help you out.
@@PetesGarageandperformance I just need to know which two wires you tapped ,,did u do it in dash or just outta the ecm ?
New subscriber here, am working on my 99 Silverado it had the v6 and am swapping to the ls1 from a Camaro. Am I gonna have to do the dual ecu like this video? And if so those it have to be the v8 or can I reuse the v6?
Is it the old or new body style Silverado? They made both styles in 99. If it’s the newer body style, the ls1 pcm should be the only one you’d need to use. If it’s the older style I think you can also only use the ls1 pcm but you’d have to run a redundant coolant temp sensor to run the gauge. But I don’t think you’d have to piggyback two pcms. The s10 needed it because the IPC worked on class2 data signals from the stock pcm and the customer had already used the FiTech. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
It's a new body style and I was planning to buy the fitech ls harnesses since it self tunes here were I live it takes months to be able to get to the tunner.
Yeah you might have to piggyback the two pcm’s. The factory 4.3 pcm can be programmed to work and would be the cleanest install. But it sounds like that might not be the best option due to tuners. That is definitely one of the beat parts of the Fitech, it self tunes the fuel tables. You do need to dial in the timing yourself though. But it is all done through the handheld so it’s really easy.
For the fault codes go to the main menu and scroll down to fault codes and it will show u what your thrown codes actually mean
Maybe I screwed up then. I scrolled through the menu and it just had the code numbers. I then clicked on it thinking it would display the code. That just cleared all of the codes
The block I have has no external bosses for knock sensors . Ism installing the Fitech 750 system. Can I just bolt them anywhere?
What block are you running? You can also turn off the knock sensors in the tune settings.
Thanks for the tip on which alternator to use, you mention you had to re-pin the 4 pin to 2 pin connector on the new alternator. Did you re-arrange the pins in the Fitech connector to match the ignition '+' and the stator 'p' on the new alternator. Let me know what you think, Tks.
I can’t remember exactly what we ended up doing. The field wire that goes to the rotor windings is the one that connects to the fitech. The other wire goes to the dash light I think.
@@PetesGarageandperformance Pete, the Fitech alternator harness has a red and orange wire, red is for alternator generator turn on signal. My accessory drive/ alternator is from a 98-02 F body. The alternator has P-L-I-S on the inlet plug. P is for stator, is that for where the red wire connects to? Orange wire goes to where? Sorry to ask this stuff its just that I'm a bit stumped. Appreciate any input.
I wouldn’t think that you would have to change the pins unless changing the connector over to the two pin style. I think part of the problem we ran into was that we were using an ict billet accessory drive with a truck alternator. You can see which wire has 12v on it when the engine is running. This should be the trigger wire to turn on the field. You’re calling it the stator but the stator is the output side of an alternator. I think it’s the orange wire (but who knows what color FiTech uses).
@@PetesGarageandperformance Pete thanks, I'm going to try my F body LS1 spacing and see what happens with that alternator. If things don't work out I'll buy another from Powermaster. They mentioned to me that the alternators up to 2005 are all the same and is should work with only a volt fluctuation at idle.
Does the fan control in the FiTech ground the rely or supply 12v? the directions don't even mention fans
Yes it grounds the relay
@@PetesGarageandperformance Thank you very much, wiring one up now!
Hey man, your mention of canbus caught my attention. I’m doing a swap into a 13 Genesis, and was wondering if you’d be willing to do an over the phone consultation (paid of course)
Wiring is not my friend here
Any way you could make a video showing how you did all the wiring to make the gauges work or make a forum so others could do this as well without all the headache?
If you are using ultimate or retro ls kit from FITECH its super easy ..find the tach and speedo wire that runs from gm ecm to dash and wire them to speedo and tach part of fitech ecm. It is kinda backward to keep gm ecm and fitech one is what pete is saying ,,but it works and lol ..if done right its easy ..also current performance makes a breakout harness to work with aftermarket FI swaps just like in this case-but you really should not need breakout harness for this scenario .
Someone that really knows what to do with wiring would've been able to do that install without the factory ecm for the truck. The gauges are something super simple to make work
This year s10 uses class2 data communication for the gauges instead of analog signals for each gauge.
@@PetesGarageandperformance that's like an 01 and up, I see the silver pcm, the only gauge that needs that is the fuel gauge
WHAT INTAKE MANIFOLD DID YOU HAVE ON THE LS?
This is FiTech’s intake that comes with the kit.
I'm using the wires an computer in a 5.3 swap in a 80's gm car do I need to use the intake your customer used or should use the factory one.
Tubby T if you already have the GM intake and computer I would use them. As long as the intake fits under the hood. I doubt there is any difference in power between the fitech intake and the factory intakes. All you’ll need is a tuning software like hptuners to use the factory stuff. But the fitech allows you to easier tune it.
@@PetesGarageandperformance okay I only bought the wires and ECU on the efi kit. I'll leave the factory stuff in the garage because I dont have hptuners or want to pay to have it done it my efi kit will do the Same maybe I'll sales the factory stuff efi much cleaner look under the hood
Tubby T oh I didn’t realize you already had the fitech harness and ecu. You can either use the factory intake or the one from fitech. The problem you may run into with the factory intake is that the fuel injector connectors on the fitech are different. Also the fitech intake looks so much cleaner.
@@PetesGarageandperformance I didn't know that thanks for the heads up so I might have to buy the intake
What does the black “ brake” wire hook to in the dash accessory harness for the ultimate ls?
Daniel Bedgood I think it goes to the brake switch. It is used so the ECU unlocks the torque converter when braking. I’m not sure if it is supposed to be powered when the pedal is pushed or grounded though.
Pete's Garage thank for quick response. Wont matter in my 70 chevelle with th400. Great and encouraging video as im nearing in on finally turning the key for first time!(6.0lq9,ligenfelter intake,tsp magic stick 3 cam,80lb injectors,ect....)
Nice. That MS3 makes good power and sounds mean as hell.
Awesome! Just subscribed cant wait to catch up on the videos
Can I get away with running a GM one wire alternator?
So how would you actually fully tune the engine? I’ve got a fully built bored out LS3, with supporting mods and with this efi setup it makes less than stock and I’m ready to throw this whole deal in the trash. I’ve spoken to some HP Tuners guys and they say I should be mid - low 500s and I’m sitting at 360 right now
To fully dial it in you would need a dyno to see what afr and timing will make the most power. It doesn’t matter what ecu is controlling the timing and fuel as long as it’s what the engine wants. The intake might make a little difference but probably not too much. What is your WOT AFR and Timing?
Like 12.3 wot afr and I'd have to get back to you on the timing. Side note- would you happen to know the part number on the 55lb injectors?
Roughly how many horse is your motor? I'm at about 450 and I'm nervous the 750 kit will be to much, however if I get a 500 kit it won't leave me any room for more upgrades
I’m pretty sure this is the 750 kit. It has 80lb injectors. This isn’t my truck though. I just did some of the work on it. I think it put about 300hp to the tires. It’s only a 4.8. But we are actually about to install a Torquestorm supercharger, so we’ll see.
@@PetesGarageandperformance I have a 750 kit, just haven't attempted to install it yet. But it only has 55lb injectors. You may have the 1000 horse kit
Maybe, I’ll have to check with the owner on which kit he bought. Not sure why he would buy a 1000 go efi kit for a n/a 4.8 lol.
Can you please give me the part number for the k and n filter you have ?
I don’t know what part number that one was. Now this truck has a “better”induction system that has the filter located behind the left headlight.
I am having issues with my 70050 kit . it runs but idle to 5/600 and backfires and shuts off. any idea what it can be? I sent the computer back. because fitech said there was a issue with it . but new one came and still a issue.
What are the fuel trims doing? Is the harness routed correctly? Does the handheld data show the correct TPS and MAP values? What is your fuel delivery setup? Fuel pressure?
Fitech said everything was spot on . i have a stage 2 sloppy cam and a msd 2225 inline fuel pump. 58psi fuel filter/ regulator. Stock ls1 injectors . not sure if its because i am running open headers? I have the harness hooked up right that was the easy part.
Open headers can really mess with the wideband readings. These systems rely heavily on that wideband oxygen sensor. Temporarily add a couple feet of pipe to the header to see if it makes a difference. Also are you sure your injectors aren’t clogged? Did they sit for a length of time?
Ok i will just get the exhaust welded on. Not sure about the injectors. I purchase a LS1 intake and they came with the intake how do I check to see if they are clogged thanks for your help a lot
Only code that pops up on the handheld is the iac code . what is a good numbers on fuel trim? And map? Should i buy 1 more 02 ? It only came with 1 .
But did fitech replace your hydrolocked cylinder. ...thas b/s
We caught it before it locked up and bent a rod or anything. We knew it was running really rich in one bank. They sent the injector, no questions asked.
Sweeeeet. ...now that you mentioned it ....I had the same alternator slash fueling issues when I first fired my fitech off too
Is it in something cool?!
A 72 nova and a 68 c10
The nova was first.....liked it so much I did the c10 1 month later.....wife was pissed
How do i contact u? I really need help on my fitech harness
Chevy Life peteeskew@yahoo.com where are you located?
@@PetesGarageandperformance i have an old school 64 impala. I have an 350 in it, would you recommend doing full LS swap or the EFI
Anthony Williams I’m all about LS swaps because they make great power and are reliable. But the Fitech added to an old school small block will give you that reliability that fuel injection gives you. It just won’t make the horsepower unless you get some good aftermarket aluminum heads compared to the LS engines.
@@PetesGarageandperformance thats some good feedback bro. I got a guy thats willing to LS swap my SBC 350, for a 5.3 for $4500. Im thinking about jumping on it . I really like the carb swap too, Im less expensive
Hey man I’ve been having issues with my ultimate LS system and was hoping maybe you could help. For whatever reason when I crank with the fuel pump running and 58psi set on my regulator I’m getting a stumble and no-start. If I unplug the fuel pump, the engine fires up and idles with no issues. I’m not sure how that’s possible, but it will only run with no fuel pressure. As soon as I turn the fuel pump on the engine dies. I’m completely lost at this point and any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance
I’m thinking your fuel pressure gauge isn’t accurate and you might be flooding the engine. I would verify the correct pressure with a different gauge. Which might be a little difficult because there isn’t a Schrader valve to check it. What do the wideband o2s read when you are supplying fuel?
Pete's Garage for starters I’m running an ls3 intake and fuel rail/injectors. When I get it running with the fuel pump off it gets down in the 13.8-14.5ish range. As soon as I introduce pressure the afrs spike and it dies. I’m running an external gauge off the schrader valve on the rail and have the regulator dialed in at 58psi. I’ve tried turn it way down to around 10psi and it still seems to die as soon as it gets any pressure
I actually just figured it out. I thought the injectors I purchased were stock 42lb ls3 injectors but they’re actually 92lb injectors lol. Readjusted initial settings and she idles fine now. Thanks for the quick replies man!
That’ll do it!
Holley throttle bracket $40 done 😆
Mine doesn't have #8 supercharged or n/a option, did you have to have that uploaded from software updates??....wtf I got jewwd
What kit do you have?
@@PetesGarageandperformance 70050
That’s a different part than what was installed in this S10. Maybe fitech supplies that ecu with a different firmware. You probably need to contact fitech. Do you have a 2bar map sensor?
@@PetesGarageandperformance 3 bar
I would contact fitech. I bet there is updated software. I didn’t see anywhere that it says that the 70050 kit is boost compatible though.
Never mind. It says 3bar 30 psi. I think it’s just automatically setup for 3bar. Is yours not running correctly?
14.4 seems extremely lean.. that's crazy. 12-13 tops
Ummm... 14.4 is the idle AFR. You want to idle as lean as the engine will allow. Anything richer at idle is going to be just wasting fuel. You want your Wide Open Throttle AFR to be 12-13. Some engines like 12.5, some like 13.0. That’s where you use a dyno to find out what the engine likes.
fitech has never worked well for us and we have done everything that they recommended, it sucks
What is your combination and what problems were you having with it?
That's not a LSX
It’s not the LSX block from GMPP. But it is in the LS engine family. Gen 3 small block chevy. So people use the LSx moniker for all of these engines.
what throttle body bracket and cable did you use on that, I have the same system
I did not do the install so I’m not sure on the cable. I think it might have been the stock 2.2 cable. The bracket is the one from FiTech. It’s sold separately for some reason.