Engine Bracket & ESA Troubleshooting Part 1 - OMC Cobra Volvo Penta SX
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 09. 2024
- Here's the video (part 1) everyone has been asking me about for sometime now! We go over troubleshooting the overstroke/intermittent (interrupter) switches. Engine shift assist is a must if you want to save your dog clutch, along with your forward/reverse gears.
This is a Great video and it does help to understand the ESA system. ESA stands for Electronic Shift Assist. It drops the idle while you shift. That can happen when both going into gear and coming out of gear. Going into gear the ESA is to lower the load on the system and prevent damage to your gears. When coming out of gear and back to neutral it is to keep the gears from being "stuck" in gear. There are a couple of mistakes:
1) The interrupter switch is the one on top that is more visible. It has the arm that rides on the "W". That switch is Normally Open (no continuity) You can tell that because when Mike activates it the multi-meter beeps showing continuity. This switch only activates for a second AS you shift.
2) The overstroke switch in normally closed. If the overstroke is open, activating the interrupter switch will will not do anything. In the video this switch is activated when you are in forward.
Mike had the normally open VS normally closed correct based on the names he said but he was pointing to the wrong one. He says so in the comments lower down. That post starts "Keith Graham
1 year ago Hi mike. I opened the round..."
My engine is like the one Mike is working on. It only has an overstroke cam for going into forward. Some engines have 2 cams one for activating the overstroke switch in forward and one for reverse.
Thanks for your comments. I mentioned this in a few of the comments below how I got these terms mixed up. Thanks so much. Please hit that subscribe button!
Thank you!
Perfectly explained electronically.
Mike is right on the function
Thanks for explaining that i was confused by the beeping and was thinking my boat was supposed to be beeping too. I'm still trying to resolve stalling issue while shifting, forward and reverse.
I’m with everyone else, you can’t leave us hanging! I picked up a 90 four Winn’s freedom 170 with a 3.slow. The thing has a brand new engine in it. I finally got it running, took it out this past weekend to check it out. The idle is way too high (800-1000rpm, probably the bad gas) and I was having one heck of a time shifting it. There was a point when coming in to the dock, that it wouldn’t shift from forward to neutral, so I shut it down. I was able to get it to return to a neutral position and on the trailer. I’m probably going to bite the bullet and buy the alignment tools to get the shift cable and everything in line. Thanks for the videos!
Andy, I know exactly what you went through--it's very common. There are a few prerequisites that need to be in place before you can touch the engine bracket. 1) Engine idle needs to be set between 400-600 RPM. 2.) ESA must work for forward/reverse (shown in Part 1 video). 3.) Shift rod height needs to be just under 7 1/4 inches ( 7 - 3/16 to be exact) from the the shift rod plate to the shift rod end (look up what the shift rod end is because it isn't the actual end of the shift rod per se). That prior mentioned step will be posted in a video tonight ( May 21st 2018). If you don't have those three setup up right, you will always have issues with shifting. Don't stress about taking the stern drive off, it's easy. Watch my video. I make it super easy.
Michael Romer I’m an auto tech by trade... I started getting all nervous thinking it was going to be difficult to repair. For the most part, it appears pretty straight forward... I think I may order the shift cable and gaskets needed for the replacement (all parts on eBay for around $130-140, including tools) and spend a rainy day getting it all lined up again (if I can’t get the inside stuff aligned).
I do need to start with the hull side, considering the engine was out, I’d like to see how to set the front side stuff up first before buying all the stuff for the cable replacement, since mine has the new style cable brackets on the inside of the boat.
Andy check this out. It includes everything and I mean just about everything you could need. Gimbal bearing, alignment tools, bellows, seals, shift cable, plus it's $200
www.amazon.com/TRANSOM-SHIFTCABLE-3852548-18-2771-3854127/dp/B0793BQ256/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1527025298&sr=8-3&keywords=OMC+shift+cable
OMC COBRA TRANSOM/SHIFTCABLE KIT W/SEAL AND SNAP RING 3852548 18-2771 3854127
Michael Romer that’s the kit I was looking at... I’m going to do some investigating after you get the next video posted up to make sure all the other stuff up top is correct before I pull the lower unit off.
@@andye4618 If you do it that way it will be ass backwards, You need to start all the way in the back starting with the shift lever and the shift cable! If you try to take any shortcuts or do it any other way you are going to be chasing your tail!
Nooooooo..!! You can't just leave us stranded here Mike...! I have a hot date waiting for a boat ride... Need that adjustment procedure, stat...! Have mercy on a fellow OMC owner... Hehehe... Good overview of components and test... Mine are good... Just need that mystical, magical adjustment procedure now... Amazing that someone is finally getting this out there after some 38 years..! Thanks again... We await your omniscient and benevolent guidance sir..
OMG that was hilarious! Made me laugh. I actually almost did get it all put together, but this massive storm came in when I filmed this video, and I had to keep cutting the video to keep all the thunder crashes out of the audio. Anyways, it started raining shortly afterwords, so all I got was a part 1. Part 2/3 should be up by Friday--just in time for that hot date on Friday!
In my 1991 Seaswirl Ford 5.0 liter/Holley 2 bbl carburetor, the ESA system, when working properly causes the engine to stumble, NOT stall. It seems to cut the rpms in half, which makes shifting from reverse to neutral possible. The W switch when closed sends a ground signal to the ESA module, then the ESA modulates the ground to the distributor causing engine stumbling, not a stall situation.
He was definitely wrong in this video, It cuts out a couple cylinders causing it to stumble which lowers the RPMs! If your engine stalls there is definitely an issue!
Hello Mike great vid but the switch with the little lever is the interrupt switch and the other one is the overstroke switch. The interrupt one will make the engine stumble when its engaged by the load lever and the overstroke switch is supposed to keep the intermittent switch from engaging once the drive is shifted in gear.
Hey Thanks for your feedback. The current manufacturer of replacement parts refers to them as I did, so I won't make corrections. Please reference this site for both verification and parts If anyone reading this needs parts. Make sure you search by stern drive.
www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/55843.cfm?mdl=S2SB1M (parts breakdown)
www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/55843.cfm?mdl=S2SB1M (they call it cut out in the diagram but in the shop manual its called the interrupter switch)
www.crowleymarine.com/parts/14135.cfm (overstroke switch)
Crowley marine sells OEM OMC Cobra parts from BRP.....I've been buying stuff from them for years....
www.crowleymarine.com/parts/16508.cfm
sorry here's the cutout (interrupter) switch
www.midnight-wolf.com/OMC_Cobra_Shift_Cable_Adjustment2.pdf
and some stuff from the updated shop manual.....
Luigi 1955 As long as BRP and Crowley use pictures to go along with a part number, we as consumers will get the right part.
I am hoping part 2 will show how to adjust so that it will shift into reverse. My shifter will get just to point to almost shift into reverse but doesn't. I can just barley pull the bracket where that top adjustment nut is and it slips into reverse with no problem. Has to be a slight adjustment to get to shift properly. Looking forward to part 2. Thanks for the very helpful videos.
There is a trick to getting it to "click" in gear. Please keep in mind your shift cable could be the the culprit (due to the age). What I typically recommend is you remove the stern drive and test the cable. The cable drag can't be more than 2.5 Lbs when measured by a spring scale. 2.5 lb measured in both directions by the way. If you fish, you have one of these scales. If your cable has never really worked then, stay tuned to part two and I'll show you the trick.
Very good video, well done, instructive, clear. Thanks from Montréal.
Thanks Robert. I'll keep making more videos just like this! Glad you liked it! Have a good one!
Helped me out so much this video you are a life savour mate thank you
Thanks so much for your comments!! Please subscribe.
Also with a properly tuned engine when you engage the interrupt switch with it running at idle (600 rpm) it will drop the idle to about 450 or so and the engine can still run at this rpm if its in good enough tune. It actually should not stall as will happen with a Merc Alpha set up.
At least that's how my '88 OMC 4.3 V6 is.
Luigi 1955 Thanks for your feedback!
Another great video. Thanks for your work!
Thanks Chad!
I know everyone is dying for part 2 and 3. Just know there are a ton of things that need to be checked before your shifting will work perfectly. I'm working to get all those steps put in video form. By the time I'm done, I will cover anything and everything you could run into. Ton of work going into the next series. Standby.
Michael Romer will a bad ESA keep you from shifting to forward even if the engine is off? My boat got stuck in reverse a couple days ago when I was backing from the doc. Right before that I did tamper with the idle a thought it was a little high. When I moved the shifter forward it went even faster in reverse. Spent an hour in the water trying to shift into forward but it wouldn't. Even with the engine off
DeQuincy Zenon ESA isn't the issue. Chances are your shifter cable is toast. Try removing the shift cable from the engine bracket. See if you can pull it out manually.If not, you need to get your stern drive off and start running through part 1 and checking everything. The shift cable is pretty cheap to replace.
Michael Romer thank you. I really appreciate the advice
Great video . Extremely helpful. Thanks
Thanks for the excellent comment! Stay tuned to more videos!
I appreciated your trouble shooting video and it looks like my ESA is operating properly. My issue is sometimes when I press the button on the throttle to keep it in neutral and allow me to rev up my motor at start up, the motor won't turn over. I pop it back to neutral and it will then try to start. More times than not i'm left trying to start the motor at an idle only. Hope this make sense.
Last thing...the ESA is not supposed to engage shifting into gear, only when you shift out of gear. The load lever (the part that actually triggers the esa intermittent switch) moves when it senses a load on the shift cable jacket (because the drive resists coming out of gear due to the nature of dog clutches). The movement of the load lever triggers the intermittent switch to lower the idle to 450 or so for a few sec as you are shifting from in-gear to neutral, that allows the drive to shift to neutral. Then as soon as the shift is completed, there is no force on the shift cable jacket which relaxes the load lever and that also releases the lever of the intermittent switch. Then the idle will jump back up to 600 or so.
Luigi 1955 I've heard some ppl mention that ESA engages coming out of gear. Mine definitely doesn't. I rebuilt truck and car manual/automatic transmissions, so convincing me of the logic of utilizing ESA on a forward to neutral shift, is a tough sell. Neutral to forward, or neutral to reverse is a given. The interruptor "metal catch" on the engine bracket is the key to knowing when your ESA is suppose to shift. I know for a fact their are multiple designs and OMC did that on purpose.
If you are running it on the water hose on land, the ESA will not have to engage (lower the engine idle) to get the outdrive out of gear into neutral, because there is no load on the prop keeping the clutch dogs engaged. But in the water if you are coasting in fwd and then need to shift to neutral then for sure it should engage due to the resistance of the dog clutches to release when a load is put on them by the pressure of the water on the prop. . The information I posted comes right out of my '88 OMC Factory Shop manual. If the ESA does not engage (interrupt switch lowering the idle from 600 down to 450 when you attempt to shift from in-gear to neutral then the drive may not shift at all, or putting pressure on it may bend parts of the shift linkage or break the cable. Mine always engages in the water, never on the water hose. And it does not engage when going from neutral into fwd or rev. Another good reference is the Midnight Wolf OMC parts website. They have updated instructions from a later model shop manual with a few OMC service bulletins.
Luigi 1955 Post some links, people reading this are hungry for knowledge.
midnight-wolf.com/OMC_Install_Instructions.html
www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/index.html
forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/295363-how-to-how-the-shift-interrupt-system-works
this describes the system on a Merc Alpha, but the Cobra system is very similar, except that on the Alpha it actually cuts the ignition to the engine for a split second where on the Cobra, it lowers the engine idle to approx. 450 rpm. This article explains nicely why the clutch dogs are cut to stay engaged, why they resist releasing when you try to shift out of gear to N, and how the shift interrupt system senses this and then lowers the engine idle to allow the clutch dogs to release so the gearcase will shift into neutral.
Hi Mike. Curious if you can tell me where the wires from the two switches connect to...
If I install a Holley EFI system how would it interface with the ESA system? Or can I set the rpm’s low and bypass the esa?
EFI uses O2 sensors. Otherwise, the setup is plug and play.
Good video I have two question though. Is that detent that causes the W plate to jump going into reverse, Built into the lower cable? My second question is, do you know where I can find the upper shift cable that goes back to the remote control? My boat is a 1989 Bayline Capri with a 2.3L and a OMC drive. It looks just like the one in this video. Someone put an after market cable and it does not fit correctly. I can't find one that has the same end on it as the one in your video and a threaded end on the remote control end. Most have an eye end for a pin on the remote end. Thanks
I dont understand your description of normal closed overstroke switch. You say normally closed switch with plunger down meaning switch is in its normal configuration you should have no continuity? Normal open in normal configuration would mean its open thus you would have an open circuit meaning no continuity. Am I missing something in your description?
I agree N.C. would get continuity when not actuated, when actuated the circuit opens........N.O. would have no continuity when not actuated, when actuated the circuit closes
He described them backwards, you get it though - "open" means not connected, or no continuity. "closed" means connected, or has continuity.
If you look at the boat harness side of the connector, OMC wired these switches to work in unison...in other words in series. The arming switch (the switch with the lever going into the W) must be closed (depressed or activated) for the trigger switch to work & cause the ESA module to stutter the engine. Interesting fact though...my 87 bracket not only has the two switches, but...also has two adjustments for the switches (these barrel shaped rubber pieces that can change when the trigger switch triggers going into FWD or REV. The bracket your using in the video doesn’t have these adjustments for some reason. I guess they wanted to make the ESA more adjustable for my boat depending on the cable positions & ratio positions. Is there a neutral starting position for the cables & switch adjusters?
Great work👍
I noticed the jam nut is not against the barrel is that correct? (the previous video shows it against the barrel)as my "W" just seems to move as it wants and mine has two contact cams instead of just one
Great video 👍 I’m still having trouble moving shifter from gear to neutral with engine running as soon as I shut it down it moves fine and from neutral to gear is a little harsh of an engagement. I’m working on this boat for a friend who had someone else put in an engine, the shift cable moves in and out without engine running just fine and I’ve adjusted the cables per your video (no special tool just measured with a ruler) I’ve been looking at wiring and the two switches you talk about aren’t working because of destroyed connectors. Will that cause my problem or will it still shift to neutral with engine running if the switches are disabled? Thank you
I have a 93 omc, would you know where I can find the Esa spring? Parts are getting hard to find. Thx.
Hey mike thanks for all the OMC content I have repaired my shift cable a couple times thanks to you. I recently am recently having a huge issue with switching g from neutral to forward and reverse I basically it turns I to a mission to dock the boat . I have to for fully pop it into all gears for it to engage it seems as if it is stuck on something . There is no grinding with gears and the dog clutch engages once I get past the struggle I’m stuck and ha e. O idea what I did wrong
Did you use a shift alignment tool when you replaced the cable? Check out my shift cable replacement video to see what it looks like, just in case you missed that step-it is required.
Hey mike , yes I used the shift alignment tool and everything seems to work great out of the water but when I put it in the water it seems to throw it off just a hair. I’m not sure if it’s the Interruptor switch. It literally will not go into neutral from forward or reverse without having to force it.
@@edwardguerrero2593 when in the water, have someone try to put it in neutral from forward while you hit the interrupt switch manually. See if that helps. If not, the problem isn’t ESA.
Michael Romer. So im to a point where i think I'm gonna sell the junk but b4 I do can you answer me this. In the out drive there are 2 black wires that are connected to something on the staboard side of the outdrive . The run up and through the transom and are connected to wires that I believe end up at the alternator and a wire harness....also i did ginny rig the lower shift cable to not pop out of that black plastic piece in the outdrive. I reassembled everything and I can make my prop turn counter clock wise and into neutral but i cant get the prop to turn ..clockwise.
You are talking about the trim sender wires. If it is popping out, there is something wrong. Take a look at this link and tell me what parts you are having issues with: www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/56125.cfm?mdl=TMV29H
Mike, do you have any additional info on doing the shifter adjustment on the old style shift bracket on my 1986 Bayliner 2858 Contessa twin w 5.0L cobra jet out drives? It is giving me fits as there’s two helm stations and both are direct. No slave helm. Plus I don’t have the diagonal slot for reverse.
having a problem with my shift cable its working to good killing my engine when i put it into gear and it wont go back to the place it should be to make the engin run right!
This is a cable alignment issue. Consider replacing it, typically there is drag from a warn cable. Start by removing the stern drive and start from video 1 and move forward.
HIHI I HAVE A VOLVO PENTA 5.7 , SWITCHES LOOK VERY SIMILAR TO URES BUT MINES ARENT WIRED UP TO ANYTHING JUST THE PLUG COMING FROM SWITCHES , ANY IDEAS HOW I WIRE THIS UP TO MY COIL OR DISTRIBUTOR , ANY INFO APPRECIATED , CANT SELECT REVERSE AFTER A RUN UNLESS I SWITCH ENGINE OFF SO SWITCHES NEED WIRED UP
What year make and model? Also is yours fuel injected?
Hello, I would like to know how the wiring of the cut-off switches is mounted, since my motor does not lower the revolutions when I go to start the gear, will any cable be wrongly connected? I already put even the 2 new switches and it remains the same, greetings
The ESA unit itself might be broken. It’s on the left exhaust manifold.
I’m having problem pulling from forward to neutral. Can you tell me if my ESA is the problem
How about the lower shift cable
I need a replacement switch for my iMac mate but I’m not sure whitch one I need does all switches work the same
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts
czcams.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/video.html
Hi mike. I opened the round inline plug into which the overshift switch ( one with blue leads and roller arm) and the other switch are connected- I checked continuity of the switches right at the plug and they are opposite to what you say in this video. Am I just misunderstanding you? Normally closed should be continuity but you are saying the opposite. Please comment. Thanks
You are right, I continuously mention them backwards throughout the video.
@@michaelromer2016 I wondered the same.
What does Esa stand for?
Electronic shift assist
My engine dies when the esa switch is triggered. At best it stumbled then dies. Or just straight dies. Should it not still run when triggered? Just really low rpm?
If you keep ESA triggered, it will kill the motor.
@@michaelromer2016 I believe my indent needs replacing. I have adjusted this ESA the best i can.
Hey Michael. Love the videos. I have a 460 King Cobra 7.5L . After following so wires I found some corroded wires at one of the amphenol connectors. How important are these amphenol plugs? Can I just replace the wires directly?
The amphenol plugs are just a standard OMC used. You can use thread or solid core copper wire too (spliced together). If you need a new connector, here you go: www.crowleymarine.com/parts/12835.cfm
Thanks for the reply. I think I'm just going to splice it in directly. The only thing is I don't remember which wire went where. Hopefully that doesn't matter.
@@trevfox88 Oddly, it does matter. Make temp connections first to test, then crimp them permanently. Otherwise, you may have up and down backwards.
Ok sounds good. I'm pretty sure the wires affected are for the RPM interrupter.
Do you have a part number for the entire esa switch
So just in case I replaced the V spring on my ' 87 5.7 the old spring basically fell out when I pulled the bracket off and the new one was pretty tight to snap back into the bracket, if your saying the original spring was too tight to begin with does that seem right to you?
There are a few issues to consider: metal fatigue on the original which affects the operation and whether you purchased the updated spring. To be sure, did you order this part www.crowleymarine.com/parts/14529.cfm
@@michaelromer2016 Yes that is the part I ordered, my boat is running fine once in gear, it does idle rough still but I have not had a chance to check the continuity on the interrupter switch like I mentioned before, in Neutral it idles like crap and no matter how many turns I make on the carb it doesn't get much better and wants to die, I set the idle to about 600 in neutral and manually pushed in the button on the switch and the idle speed jumped up to over 1000 but in gear idle is good (like the switch is backwards?) when I shift into fwd or reverse it does grind for a second, so I will adjust(fine tune) the cables hopefully tomorrow
Michael what's the best sites for finding parts for the 5.0 cobra omc I've got a corsair 195 low hours stopped running about 5 years purchased from a friend...
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts
czcams.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/video.html
So I'm guessing I have a bigger problem... When I activate my overstroke switch the engine not only stumbles, it dies... I have retrofitted the distributor with the sierra kit (so easy) and modified my wiring to include the recommended diode / resistor circuit... I have a hard time bringing my idle down to 600 without dying... Engine feels like it is running a little rough... When I pull plug wires off the distributer cap to try to isolate if a particular may be the culprit I find that when I pull the 6 & 8 wires I don't notice the idle getting rougher (all others are noticeable)... I'm thinking head gasket..?? Any suggestions on how to verify this diagnosis..? Also, have you ever pulled the heads off a 5.8 (ford 351) cobra..? It's a 91 four wins... Thanks again Mike..Arthur... I'll get that hot date out on the water yet..!!
Ok, so you have a few issues here. The ESA works pretty close with the coil. Your engine needs to be in strong working condition, otherwise ESA will cause it to shut off. Basically, you have it barely running now, ESA finishes it off. Watch my video on how to check if your coil is any good. Also your cap and rotor need to be replaced because I'm reading a lot of ignition related issues in your description. Also check your spark plugs. Run your boat at night and check and see if you see arching (sparks) coming from your spark plug wires. I have lot's of experience pulling the heads off the 351w/350s. Before you go that route, you need to do a compression check and leak down (yes both). If either of those fail, you should take your heads off and start that journey. Yes, I'll probably post a video of how to do that.
Hi Mike... Coil, cap, rotor, wires & plugs have all been replaced with quality parts... Now here's a curious little detail: there have been times when I have pulled that #8 plug (this rough idle is a couple years old now) and it was wet... Not gas wet but water wet... Do you know of any failure consistent with that..? It is the rear most plug on the starboard side... Exhaust manifold..? head gasket..? Have you ever seen this occur..?
Thanks for you valuable time.. Kind regards,
Arthur Oh, PS.. That cylinder is holding at 150 lbs... I'll check others..
That really sounds like a burnt exhaust value! You sure you have compression on that cylinder? If it were the exhaust manifold, they all be a little wet. Sadly, this would be the head gasket.
A Vida Another test I mentioned earlier that will save you time is a leak down tester. It's a good way to test your head gasket. They have them for $35. I have a how to video for that process.
OK Mike.. It seems my previous diagnostic tests may have sent me in pursuit of wild aquatic foul (aka a wild goose chase)... After further testing I have noted some perplexing, reproducible results: When I run a jumper from +Batt to +coil all seems fine (except of course the overstroke function), starts fine, runs fine, shifts w/o stalling (I'm out of the water), tilt up/down... When I remove the jumper things go to hell as soon as I try to do anything (shift, tilt, almost even look at it..!) So, I think you were right in the first place - something ignition related... I'm going to go do some more diagnostics, any recommendations..? My marina installed the diode/resister circuit so I can't assume it is correct... When testing without jumper I get inconsistent results... Sometimes pressing the OS switch causes the engine to stumble for a few seconds (even after I release), sometimes not... The thing that's got me scratching my head is without the jumper the engine stalls when using tilt..? Any thoughts..? Thanks.. Arthur
Where do I hook up the diode fix into the esa
Are you taking about the aftermarket diode?
How do u fix it I'm have the same problem to
Great question, check out the entire 5 part series. Please subscribe!
I do not know what year exactly my shift bracket is however I know that , "W" thing never moves. Is it simply that v spring in the back that's to tight? Got a link to buy one ? What is its name exactley.
See if the w will move by hand first. The whole thing about the w is it only moves correctly if the linkage is setup correctly. Sadly, if someone has played with it, it needs to be redone. I recommend starting with my ESA 5 part series and working your way all the way to part 5. You could skip the parts where I removed the stern drive (part 2) but you are leaving out 50% of the possible problem. For purposes of this video series I simply call it the "w" which is centered by the v spring.
Michael Romer thnx 4 reply. 2 years ago i rebuilt motor. B4 rebuilt I only had forward and Nuetr.When everything was pulled apart I noticed a million barnacles in the outdrive. Thought that was hindering shifter. Cleaned everything, got bottom of shift cable in bell housing sliding smooth. Put OD back on. Huge problems with impella and the top end of OD. Shelved the project last year.This year bought a better ODrive. Hooked it up, everything works xcept only forward. Took outdrive off. Notice linkage keeps popping out of end of shift cable. Plus i noticed with engine on that little roller thing at the "W" when you move it the motor does not try to cut off. Yes that "W" can move freely. So I know from outdrive to motor the shift system needs to be redone. I am trying to rig the bottom (the part in the outdrive) to go from forward to neutral to reverse without having the linkage pop out and use the boat THIS season. Im talking under 10 trips around the harbor. Then this fall im yanking the motor. Again and then I will replace the shift cable.
Could a bad ESA system cause the coil not to spark
ESA by default, meaning when in neutral, ESA is off. If your shift linkage isn't adjusted right then, you might have ESA on all the time. Check out my ESA video series to work through that.
mike do u have a part number for the v-spring?
William Holdt Here you go. If you are running a 1986/7, definitely consider changing it. Here you go: www.crowleymarine.com/parts/14529.cfm
I have an 88, having problems getting it into reverse, this video really helped, thank u so much , go two big trips planned and I still need to figure this out ugh
when testing the intermittent switch and over stroke switch do you have the ignition turned on or can it be done without a battery, I can't reach the wiring on the switches to test. are dots under the red paste test termails on them? I recently did a electronic ignition upgrade by Pertronix. when the ESA system is un hooked from the ignition coil and jump the + the the battery its starts and runs great. when I test the connector the same as you on part 1 i get audible sound out of the multimeter without pressing either over stroke or intermittent switch. i think my issues is between those to switches. In previous comment you advised a guy with a similar issue to switch from an 0.6 ohm coil to 1.5 and sounded like it worked I'm willing to try anything
both switches tested fine but still getting audible signal out of the connector
Joss, that audible noise means that ESA is firing (stalling the motor). There has to be something completing the circuit. Trace those wires.
Would a bad ESA create a no spark problem?
A bad ESA could cause a no start, but check my video on other more likely culprits. You can unplug the ESA module, which is on the left manifold for testing. Please hit that subscribe button thanks!
So are these switches having 12v going through them or are they a ground that is opening and closing. Because I'm not getting a volt reading when I check the wires. Also I did this test light check while the engine was off but Ignition key on. does the motor have to be running for a test light to get a signal that supposed to be going to the switches (if power is to be going to the switches) the switches are working but not causing idle to stumble
Also my wiring harness for the switches have a blue wire looped to the other wire
They are going to have somewhere between 9 to 12 volts coming though. Keep in mind you might have a bad switch. I've seen that happen. You can check connectivity when it is off--that is a huge part to make sure switching works. Once it is on, then your coil/ESA module comes into play. That is when the 9v-12 volts is detected. Most of your work can be done with the motor off.
It's been awhile since anyone commented, but Can I ask a question here? So I'm wondering if either,or both of these were bad would I get a 'No Start' scenario? Or could my ESA Module be bad? I have to ask because last year I had my '88 OMC 5.0 running (in my driveway with the muffs) I was testing my prop rotation ie. put it into gear, she ran great for awhile then she either died out,or I shut her off and tried to restart and get nothing. I have tried almost everything, but what works to get her started again. I have watched your videos, I did some testing with the interrupt/overstroke switches and I think they function properly, although the interrupt switch plunger is a little slow coming back out. Wondering if maybe the ESA module may be bad. Suggestions??
When we consider no start scenarios, that shouldn't be ESA related. The best way to test that is to get a continuity tester and see if ESA is engaging (like I show in the videos). If you hear that ringing sound during continuity testing (like in the video), it will keep you motor from starting. It's like a constant stall. I have heard of that happening. Run through the normal no start scenario troubleshooting i.e., spark, fuel, air. Thanks so much. Please hit that subscribe button!
Also hit that subscribe button as my subscribers get top priority when it comes to comment responses.
@@michaelromer2016 Thank you for getting back to me. I did hit the subscribe button. Thank you for reminding me.
I had to buy a new ohm tester because my old 'Innova" was showing 1.08 ohms when I think it should be showing "0" when testing the wires on the interrupt/overstroke switch test. I will have to get out there with new tester,and your video, and retry.
@@jeffreygardner6600 Thanks and let me know how it goes!
@@michaelromer2016 It appears as though my interrupt/overstroke modules are still working. I have not tried starting it yet because I am still trying to figure out the other electronics that may present a 'no start' scenario. Someone before me changed the distributor from points to BID, although it appears that the distributor itself is the original, they replaced the plate inside with Pertronix Ignitor.
The ESA module is a 987571,which shows for 5.7,5.0 Ford system. The coil looks original. I'm not sure if all this Frankenstein work is working.
I'm thinking about changing the ESA module, which I will have to get the adapter harness as well, changing the coil, just because, and changing the Ignitor, just in case.
I am also changing the ground cable because there was too much resistance from the battery to the distributor housing. Am I missing anything??
...And yes, I did check the kill switch too.😁
Cobra sorry
Any recommendations I have 1989 5.7L OMC Cobra. When it runs for couple of minutes it shots up and hard to start I noticed no spark on the coil and replaced the but no start. If I let cool it then crank right up.