I wish I could pay this guy to go to the range with me even if it was just for a day. Information is key. I never thought about the math behind the scope not having to be in line with the bore. Thanks man
How has this video been hiding on CZcams for 8 years. Having googling the stuff forever and never came across this video which has some really good information that I thought I already knew.
Excellent work. Very intuitive. The best part is your simple suggestions for verifying tracking relative to the plumb line. I try to be very precise with my mounting but nice to know you can easily correct for those nagging errors that occur regardless. Thank you!
thank you for taking time to make the video. I have recently viewed another video where it is mentioned that there was a write-up from someone at the snipers hide talking about having reticle canted to bore so reticle is true with your natural rifle hold. something I am gonna try to think about and of course try to find the write-up. also showing people to make sure the scope mechanism is actually holding true up and down is a good point that I think many miss.
Wow... that was a lot of good information! There where points I'd never considered and points that I had never seen in a classroom before. That was an incredibly humble video with golden information.
Hi guys. For levelling my Scopes I always use bottom flat right under the turrets cluster. This is the Manufacturer reference point. Turrets are flexible and not meant to be square to reticule. BTW great Video and I've learned a lot from it. Thank you Bipod Buddy.
Excellent video...I plan to watch it again. Very well done sir. Opened my eyes to the fact that a level scope at the time of the shot is the most critical element to hitting intended target. Took me a while but I finally realized why you kept stressing "the bullet starts falling straight down to the earth as soon as it leaves the barrel" I'm late to the party...just realized that this video is almost 2 years old....Mike
This IS by far the best scope installation video out there. I used the usual method of double levels to mount my $2,000.00 Leupold Mark IV. I couldn't understand why my longer shots were missing. I double checked and triple checked my scope using the two level method. Then I came across your video. And guess what? My scope internals AREN'T square with the turrets. Mystery solved. I was then able to square the internals to the bore using your method as explained here in your video. I'm getting a new Nightforce 5x25 ATACR1 scope next Monday. Hopefully there won't be the same issues I have with the Leupold scope. Thank you so much for taking the time to educate our shooting family, myself included. God Bless and happy hunting/shooting.
Should send the defective scope back. Just because you spent a lot of money on it doesn't mean they are all perfect. I have personally seen many high dollar optics (or the best a particular manufacture makes) with canted reticules. IE vortex razor HD, Steiner, Leopold, Burris, etc
Great video. A number of installation issues I had never even thought about that will effect an accurate long range shot. Thank you for your time and investment you've generously shared with the shooting community here.
I was very surprised and I am very happy to learn from this video. Now I can buy my scope level. I will be installing it on a 22 LR target rifle to shoot 25 to 100 meters and without this video I would have been lost to install it. I will also install a level on my 308 win for hunting that is zeroed at 200 meters just in case I have to take a shot out to 350 and I would not take a shot any further at a deer with a 308 win.
Charles thanks for your kind words. If you need to purchase any level, keep in mind we now have them on our web site under the accessories. www.bipodbuddy.com
Great video! Learned allot.... Disappointed though.... Decided I had to have one of the flip up "Scope Levels," but unfortunately they are only available for 1" & 30mm scope tubes. Won't work for might Nightforce ATACR 5-25x56mm because of it's 34mm main tube......
does seem counterintuitive at first , but the errors people are thinking about would be smaller than the error introduced when the scope reticle is perfectly aligned with barrel bore but then you don't hold the reticle level. in the real world I think it is more difficult for some to accurately hold the reticle/gun combo perfectly level enough for shooter induced error from shot to shot to be less than the error built in do to a 3º can't so has to make it easier and more natural to hold the reticle level. nothing is perfect and when one thinks about all the variables involved between the mounting and shooter variance or "error" from shot to shot not to mention all the changing environmental conditions it is what makes shooting so interesting to me.
Well organised video! it was Enjoyable to watch. Even though I do not use the exact same approach to aligning my scope to my bore axis, our approaches are close enough to make it a moot point. In the end, as long as we take into consideration all the logical deterministic variables present in the set up of our optics and rifle, we benefit from the reduced deviations and errors in our setup, and results on our target. keep up the videos, concise information without a pile of nonsense is what the shooting world needs. I am hoping to get myself onto youtube doing videos like this, but do not have the computer back ground to assemble the video scenes smoothly and in a manner that creates effective subject flow. Once again, good job!
Thanks for a well done video. you went in depth where most videos just skim. i'm new to shooting w/ scopes. I always thought spin-drift was similar to why ping pong, baseballs, & golfballs tend to curve because of spin. The ''bench-racing'' responses below are entertaining.
Nice video, good info, but spin drift doesn't quite work that way, it does not act like a wheel spinning or paddling itself to the right, it is actually the gyro effect that points nose of the bullet to the right, called Gyroscopic Precession, but the end result is the same, so no biggie. Good video otherwise.
From what I understand 2 degrees cant is .1 mill per 100 meters. Per Todd Hodnett Accuracy 1st. I level my level that the bubble touches one of the lines on the level so there is no deviance. (slop between the lines)
Nice video. Couple of points though. 6 degrees is a LOT more than 1 minute. 1 minute is 1/60th of 1 degree. Six degrees would be 360 minutes of angle. Also, if your scope isn't level with the action rails, when you shoulder the rifle, you're introducing cant. What's the point of putting a level on the scope, if you've canted the scope before you put the level on it? Level the rifle, then level the reticle with the rifle level, then install the scope level. Then when you shoulder the rifle you'll be forced to hold the rifle without cant.
Thanks for the clarification. I misspoke by saying Minute of angle when I meant a minute on a clock (60 minutes on a clock which is 360 degrees thus one minute equals 6 degrees). I was trying to give a visual reference for those that do not understand angles very well. One major point of this video was to make it understood that there is a difference between "rifle" cant and "scope" cant. Scope cant is very important, but rifle cant is insignificant IF the scope is held perfectly level. I believe it is very important to set the rifle to your natural hold and not be "forced" to hold the rifle vertically. If the rifle is comfortable for your hold, you will have a better chance of keeping the rifle level during the shot execution, and will allow for faster leveling in pressure or rushed situations. Most competition shooters set up their rifles this way for good reason. On the other hand many people feel better knowing the rifle is also level or in line with the bore, which is fine too.
Thanks for the info, nice work. To all the haters out there. He is providing data points that you can use or not use. I personally zero at 600 yards for Northern Hem. right shift Coriolis and spin drift. This is about 1/2" left at 200 yard zero for my location. If you want to know why you can study external ballistics till you are blue in the face. Till then, with drop charts in the field (no ballistic calculator) good luck correcting for spin drift, Coriolis, wind, temp, barometric pressure, altitude density cosign angle, vertical wind gradients, ammunition temperature, and I could go on. What ever makes it easier to hit a target is a good thing.
I really appreciate the time and information you've provided in this video but I'm not sure it makes complete sense. When you mounted the scope level on the second rifle, the scope was not true to the action from the beginning. It was set up for "your" eye. Since it didn't track correctly because it was canted for your eye, you then moved the level to compensate. Wouldn't all of that have been taken care of from the beginning if your reticle was true to the action? If the reticle isn't level and tracking level, shouldn't you adjust the scope to do so?
Robert, I think I can clear up this confusion if I understand your question correctly. First, it is important to understand the the reticle is independent of the travel of the scope tube. Reticles are installed by humans and it is very common that they are not installed absolutely perfectly true to the scopes travel. I have a Leupold VX3, and a Nightforce that the reticles are not exactly in line with the travel of the scope dial. The scope on the video is slightly the same way. In order to verify if the scope was tracking true with the reticle, I was holding the reticle level in reference to the neighbors garage then dialing. This has nothing to do with how the scope was mounted on the gun, but how the reticle was installed in the scope by the manufacturer. Before installing the level, I was using the reticle for holdover, and that is why I had it adjusted to my "eye" so when I held the gun, the reticle would be plum. Keep in mind that the level mounted to the scope gets the "scope" level for the shot, not the "rifle". After properly installing the level, I could take the scope off that rifle, and install it on another rifle in any position I wanted, and as long as the scope is level when the shot is taken there will be no canting error. Second, it is important to understand that everyone holds these guns slightly different and the "look" of the reticle would also be different. The only thing that matters is that the scope is plum to the earth when the shot is taken. How a shooter gets to that point is less important, and adjusting the scope (not the level) if needed so the shooter is comfortable with how the reticle "looks" will make it easier for that shooter to get the scope level.
Bipod Buddy That makes perfect sense to me now.... Thank you for clarifying. I guess I didn't think of the manufacturer's human error when placing the reticle in the scope. Now I understand the entire video and I applaud you.
hello and thank you for your video. Very informative. Do me a favor though, tell me where you got your ammo carrier for your rifle butt. I can't find one that will hold 7 millimeter Magnum. I bought a nice one but can only use every other slot for the ammo. Thanks. Joe.
Very informative video. Keep up the good work. What happens if you have flip-up lens caps, can you see the level bubble, with the caps up, without moving your head? And what would you suggest when buying a flip-up lens caps and levels that have flip-up lens caps. I just bought a Bushnell Trophy Xtreme, 6-24x50, 30mm, DOA LR800, Matte, BOX 6L 756245B and need lens covers and a level. Thanks
I have a question and from watching your technique for mounting scopes I think you can help me. I have an AR platform and mounted a Konus 8 X-32X56mm KonusPro F30 First Focal plane and I run out of adjustment trying to zero it. So I centered both the elevation and windage turrets and set the rifle in a vise then at 25yd's I put up a target. With a laser in the end of the bore to put me on target then looking through the scope and the vertical radical was off to the left about 4-1/2" and the horizontal radical was about 3" high. So the 64K dollar question is how do I fix this scope misalignment to the bore? HELP! Thanks JR
The reason for a level is so you do not miss left or right... The biggest point of this video is that the SCOPE must be level when the shot is made. The rifle being level or not is of least importance.
Over and over you say the bullet falls straight down ignores spin drift. You can not cant your rifle precise enough to predict your spin drift. Now a nice mil reticle with half mils is a far better way and you can hold left or right depending on your twist. That's just some of my limited knowledge
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge! GOOD QUESTION. I have plumbed my reticle but when I shoulder my rifle (which was also leveled) the reticle looks canted to the left and it feels weird looking at it. I know that my reticle is plumbed which gives me reassurance but it still feels so strange. Is there any way to compensate this while having a plumbed reticle? Thanks!
First, It is very important that when taking a shot the reticle is plumb. It really doesn't matter if the scope is perfectly square to the rifle, as long as when the shot is taken the reticle is straight up and down. You can trust your eyes to level the crosshair at reasonable distance. For longer range shooting, I feel it is best to have a level installed on the scope. I personally would install a level, and set the scope in the rings so that it felt comfortable when you shoulder the rifle. Again as long as the scope is level/reticle is plumb, it does not matter if it is square to the rifle.
@@aroshtr Thanks for the reply! Shoot. I forgot to add some details. lol But I did install a scope level when my reticle was being plumbed. The leveled rifle was just out of preference. So just to be sure. If a plumbed reticle appears canted from our “perspective” but the scope level indicates that it is plumbed, it’s still good? It does appear level when I look from behind the buttpad of the stock but not when I place my head on the cheek rest. I appreciate all your help! 👍🏼
@@spicychich1718 Thanks for the clarification. So in theory, you should be good to go. However, this does depend on how the reticle was plumbed. If you used a true plumb line set with an accurate long level or a plumb bob, and lined the reticle up with this line, I would think you are good to go. It is possible that it is an optical illusion. However If you simply used bubble levels set on the scope turrets/housing, you may have some error. It is important to know that the reticle in scopes can be installed slightly out of square/plumb. I have even seen this in higher end scopes. If this is the case, you have to make a decision. 1. If you are using the reticle for hold overs, you MUST make the reticle plumb to the level mounted on the scope. 2. If you are using your turrets to dial elevation, you will have to ignore the canted reticle, and set the actual travel of the scope plumb to the scope level. Once the level that is mounted on the scope is set correctly, feel free to adjust the rotation of the scope in the rings to feel comfortable to your eye. Obviously after doing this you will need to re-zero your rifle. Hope this helps.
whats the point of levelling anything if you dont worry about levelling the scope to the bore that doesnt make any sense then why do we even bother with levelling kits˜?
Jason Campbell There are three main reasons why I feel it is important to at least KNOW you don't have to have the scope perfectly aligned with the bore. First, and most important, I wanted it to be clear that what really matters is the SCOPE being level when the shot is taken. Too many people think the alignment being off is what causes misses at long range when it is the SCOPE not being held level. Second, I wanted people to understand that the gadgets/tools that align the bore to the scope are not necessary and their money could be better spent on other items. Third, I think it is important for shooters to know that if they want to rotate the scope for more comfort or a better cheek weld they can do it as long as the level is mounted to the scope tube and not the gun.
no thats wrong, I have had a rifle and scope not level to one another, to make an adjustment you now have to make two correction in place of one. lets say your rifle is canted but scope is level, when you fire onto your target you find that your shooting low now to fix that you would have to make an adjustment of lets 1/4 moa up then you would have to make the windage adjustment 1/4 moe to the left
Jason Campbell I will be putting together a video that proves my point, as you are not the only one who thinks the bore must be in line with the scope. When you are say that you will need both windage and elevation to correct for a low bullet placement, this is only true if the SCOPE is canted. Imagine a gun being held vertical, but a scope at a 45 degree angle. In this example you are correct and would need equal windage and elevation adjustments to get the bullet to move straight up, and one 1/4moa click would only equal 1/8moa of elevation change. Take this to the extreme, and imagine a properly mounted scope over the bore, and then lay the gun on its side on the bench. Now the elevation and windage knobs would act opposite . To move the bullet up you would need to adjust the windage turret to the right to get the bullet to come up. and one 1/4 moa click to the right would move the bullet up 1/4 moa. This is not what I am talking about. In my example the scope is held perfectly level, and the GUN is canted at a 45 degree angle. Thus when making a correction the elevation would track true. I agree that the bore will now be to the right of the scope in this case, but it is possible to sight in and hit the middle at say 200 yards. Keep in mind that as soon as the bullet leaves the barrel, gravity pulls it STRAIGHT DOWN. So lets imagine the barrel is off to the right by a full 1/2". So, If you sight in at 200 with the bullet hitting 1/2" to the right, you would hit 1/2" to the right at 100 and 400 or any distance. Now when you correct for the windage to sight in at a particular distance, you now create some angular error. If we now sight in at 200, we would hit 1/4" to the right at 100, 1/4" left at 300, and 1/2" left at 400.... Keep in mind the kind of cant we would actually have is so minimal that it will almost not be measurable in real world shooting conditions.
Jason Campbell no you’re wrong. The rifle can be canted but the reticle cannot, if you want precision. You can “approximately” align the bore and reticle, but you want your reticle to be level and setting up a scope-mounted bubble level helps achieve that in long range shooting.
Holly, that is the "Bipod Buddy" we produce. They are for getting very steady aiming for hunting and precision shooting. Check out our website at www.BipodBuddy.com
levels are pointless. I have shot deer past 500 yds and shot targets out to 700 without them. Been doing it for 20 years and so were all the old snipers back in the day.
Very very bad advice, aimming at doors, neighbors window ????? Rifle not trued to scope not important ?? So wrong... Advice use a plum bob, hang dark string from your target at range with any heavy object. Than aim your reticle. This is true, and if you have level on action too, you wont go wrong
Chunky Father rifle doesn’t need to be true to reticle. Reticle must be true to direction of gravity and track precisely. Zero your rifle with reticle square and your rifle cant is irrelevant (but your reticle cant is critical)
tzsniper you dont know what you are talking about. The reticle needs to track very precisely in the direction of gravity, regardless of your rifle orientation. If it does, and your reticle is not canted when you shoot, you’re good. If your rifle is canted but your reticle is not you’re good
FYI, I use colored fishing line hanging on the wall with a weight to plumb my scopes at home. It worked very well for me
I wish I could pay this guy to go to the range with me even if it was just for a day. Information is key. I never thought about the math behind the scope not having to be in line with the bore. Thanks man
How has this video been hiding on CZcams for 8 years. Having googling the stuff forever and never came across this video which has some really good information that I thought I already knew.
Excellent work. Very intuitive. The best part is your simple suggestions for verifying tracking relative to the plumb line. I try to be very precise with my mounting but nice to know you can easily correct for those nagging errors that occur regardless. Thank you!
thank you for taking time to make the video. I have recently viewed another video where it is mentioned that there was a write-up from someone at the snipers hide talking about having reticle canted to bore so reticle is true with your natural rifle hold. something I am gonna try to think about and of course try to find the write-up.
also showing people to make sure the scope mechanism is actually holding true up and down is a good point that I think many miss.
Excellent! I was worried at first with the length, but in reality it is long because is packed with a lot of concise and clear information. Thanks!
Wow... that was a lot of good information! There where points I'd never considered and points that I had never seen in a classroom before. That was an incredibly humble video with golden information.
Hi guys. For levelling my Scopes I always use bottom flat right under the turrets cluster. This is the Manufacturer reference point. Turrets are flexible and not meant to be square to reticule. BTW great Video and I've learned a lot from it. Thank you Bipod Buddy.
Excellent video...I plan to watch it again. Very well done sir. Opened my eyes to the fact that a level scope at the time of the shot is the most critical element to hitting intended target. Took me a while but I finally realized why you kept stressing "the bullet starts falling straight down to the earth as soon as it leaves the barrel" I'm late to the party...just realized that this video is almost 2 years old....Mike
This IS by far the best scope installation video out there. I used the usual method of double levels to mount my $2,000.00 Leupold Mark IV. I couldn't understand why my longer shots were missing. I double checked and triple checked my scope using the two level method. Then I came across your video. And guess what? My scope internals AREN'T square with the turrets. Mystery solved. I was then able to square the internals to the bore using your method as explained here in your video. I'm getting a new Nightforce 5x25 ATACR1 scope next Monday. Hopefully there won't be the same issues I have with the Leupold scope. Thank you so much for taking the time to educate our shooting family, myself included.
God Bless and happy hunting/shooting.
Should send the defective scope back. Just because you spent a lot of money on it doesn't mean they are all perfect. I have personally seen many high dollar optics (or the best a particular manufacture makes) with canted reticules. IE vortex razor HD, Steiner, Leopold, Burris, etc
Great video. A number of installation issues I had never even thought about that will effect an accurate long range shot. Thank you for your time and investment you've generously shared with the shooting community here.
Tacking a string with a small weight on it to a wall works pretty good to line up the reticle.
I was very surprised and I am very happy to learn from this video. Now I can buy my scope level. I will be installing it on a 22 LR target rifle to shoot 25 to 100 meters and without this video I would have been lost to install it. I will also install a level on my 308 win for hunting that is zeroed at 200 meters just in case I have to take a shot out to 350 and I would not take a shot any further at a deer with a 308 win.
Charles thanks for your kind words. If you need to purchase any level, keep in mind we now have them on our web site under the accessories. www.bipodbuddy.com
Well...we have certainly come a long way since this video was put out. Still doing it this way?
Very clear tips and put a lot of things into perspective - thanks for going to all the trouble.
Great video! Learned allot.... Disappointed though.... Decided I had to have one of the flip up "Scope Levels," but unfortunately they are only available for 1" & 30mm scope tubes. Won't work for might Nightforce ATACR 5-25x56mm because of it's 34mm main tube......
does seem counterintuitive at first , but the errors people are thinking about would be smaller than the error introduced when the scope reticle is perfectly aligned with barrel bore but then you don't hold the reticle level. in the real world I think it is more difficult for some to accurately hold the reticle/gun combo perfectly level enough for shooter induced error from shot to shot to be less than the error built in do to a 3º can't so has to make it easier and more natural to hold the reticle level. nothing is perfect and when one thinks about all the variables involved between the mounting and shooter variance or "error" from shot to shot not to mention all the changing environmental conditions it is what makes shooting so interesting to me.
Well organised video! it was Enjoyable to watch. Even though I do not use the exact same approach to aligning my scope to my bore axis, our approaches are close enough to make it a moot point. In the end, as long as we take into consideration all the logical deterministic variables present in the set up of our optics and rifle, we benefit from the reduced deviations and errors in our setup, and results on our target. keep up the videos, concise information without a pile of nonsense is what the shooting world needs. I am hoping to get myself onto youtube doing videos like this, but do not have the computer back ground to assemble the video scenes smoothly and in a manner that creates effective subject flow. Once again, good job!
Thanks for a well done video. you went in depth where most videos just skim. i'm new to shooting w/ scopes. I always thought spin-drift was similar to why ping pong, baseballs, & golfballs tend to curve because of spin. The ''bench-racing'' responses below are entertaining.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video,
Great information, well explained and with having a little maths knowledge makes sense👍
Nice video, good info, but spin drift doesn't quite work that way, it does not act like a wheel spinning or paddling itself to the right, it is actually the gyro effect that points nose of the bullet to the right, called Gyroscopic Precession, but the end result is the same, so no biggie. Good video otherwise.
Thanks a bunch. Very informative and comprehensive.
Taking the eyes out of Prarie Dogs at 250 yards...
From what I understand 2 degrees cant is .1 mill per 100 meters. Per Todd Hodnett Accuracy 1st. I level my level that the bubble touches one of the lines on the level so there is no deviance. (slop between the lines)
great video - thanks
Nice video. Couple of points though. 6 degrees is a LOT more than 1 minute. 1 minute is 1/60th of 1 degree. Six degrees would be 360 minutes of angle. Also, if your scope isn't level with the action rails, when you shoulder the rifle, you're introducing cant. What's the point of putting a level on the scope, if you've canted the scope before you put the level on it? Level the rifle, then level the reticle with the rifle level, then install the scope level. Then when you shoulder the rifle you'll be forced to hold the rifle without cant.
Thanks for the clarification. I misspoke by saying Minute of angle when I meant a minute on a clock (60 minutes on a clock which is 360 degrees thus one minute equals 6 degrees). I was trying to give a visual reference for those that do not understand angles very well.
One major point of this video was to make it understood that there is a difference between "rifle" cant and "scope" cant. Scope cant is very important, but rifle cant is insignificant IF the scope is held perfectly level. I believe it is very important to set the rifle to your natural hold and not be "forced" to hold the rifle vertically. If the rifle is comfortable for your hold, you will have a better chance of keeping the rifle level during the shot execution, and will allow for faster leveling in pressure or rushed situations. Most competition shooters set up their rifles this way for good reason. On the other hand many people feel better knowing the rifle is also level or in line with the bore, which is fine too.
Nice and easy setup
Thanks for the info, nice work. To all the haters out there. He is providing data points that you can use or not use. I personally zero at 600 yards for Northern Hem. right shift Coriolis and spin drift. This is about 1/2" left at 200 yard zero for my location. If you want to know why you can study external ballistics till you are blue in the face. Till then, with drop charts in the field (no ballistic calculator) good luck correcting for spin drift, Coriolis, wind, temp, barometric pressure, altitude density cosign angle, vertical wind gradients, ammunition temperature, and I could go on. What ever makes it easier to hit a target is a good thing.
Very thorough. thank you
Excellent points and explanations. Thanks for the great information.
How do you level the rifle if you don't have a rail on the rifle?
I really appreciate the time and information you've provided in this video but I'm not sure it makes complete sense. When you mounted the scope level on the second rifle, the scope was not true to the action from the beginning. It was set up for "your" eye. Since it didn't track correctly because it was canted for your eye, you then moved the level to compensate. Wouldn't all of that have been taken care of from the beginning if your reticle was true to the action? If the reticle isn't level and tracking level, shouldn't you adjust the scope to do so?
Meaning, if you adjust the scope level to adjust the tracking of the scope for your eye setup, wouldn't the reticle look crooked to your eye anyway?
Robert, I think I can clear up this confusion if I understand your question correctly. First, it is important to understand the the reticle is independent of the travel of the scope tube. Reticles are installed by humans and it is very common that they are not installed absolutely perfectly true to the scopes travel. I have a Leupold VX3, and a Nightforce that the reticles are not exactly in line with the travel of the scope dial. The scope on the video is slightly the same way. In order to verify if the scope was tracking true with the reticle, I was holding the reticle level in reference to the neighbors garage then dialing. This has nothing to do with how the scope was mounted on the gun, but how the reticle was installed in the scope by the manufacturer. Before installing the level, I was using the reticle for holdover, and that is why I had it adjusted to my "eye" so when I held the gun, the reticle would be plum. Keep in mind that the level mounted to the scope gets the "scope" level for the shot, not the "rifle". After properly installing the level, I could take the scope off that rifle, and install it on another rifle in any position I wanted, and as long as the scope is level when the shot is taken there will be no canting error. Second, it is important to understand that everyone holds these guns slightly different and the "look" of the reticle would also be different. The only thing that matters is that the scope is plum to the earth when the shot is taken. How a shooter gets to that point is less important, and adjusting the scope (not the level) if needed so the shooter is comfortable with how the reticle "looks" will make it easier for that shooter to get the scope level.
Bipod Buddy That makes perfect sense to me now.... Thank you for clarifying. I guess I didn't think of the manufacturer's human error when placing the reticle in the scope. Now I understand the entire video and I applaud you.
hello and thank you for your video. Very informative. Do me a favor though, tell me where you got your ammo carrier for your rifle butt. I can't find one that will hold 7 millimeter Magnum. I bought a nice one but can only use every other slot for the ammo. Thanks. Joe.
very interesting and well presented . .. . many thanks
I learned a ton from this video, thank you.
That was a GREAT video i learned a lot, thank you and you win a new subscriber and a lot of likes!!
Nicely done. Thanks for sharing.
People don't need label the rings are 100 % same hight scopes are label unless you mount them wrong ..and if you don't hit u target is your ft.
Very informative video. Keep up the good work.
What happens if you have flip-up lens caps, can you see the level bubble, with the caps up, without moving your head? And what would you suggest when buying a flip-up lens caps and levels that have flip-up lens caps. I just bought a Bushnell Trophy Xtreme, 6-24x50, 30mm, DOA LR800, Matte, BOX 6L 756245B and need lens covers and a level. Thanks
I have my covers flip up at an angle so I can see my turret also.
I have a question and from watching your technique for mounting scopes I think you can help me. I have an AR platform and mounted a Konus 8 X-32X56mm KonusPro F30 First Focal plane and I run out of adjustment trying to zero it. So I centered both the elevation and windage turrets and set the rifle in a vise then at 25yd's I put up a target. With a laser in the end of the bore to put me on target then looking through the scope and the vertical radical was off to the left about 4-1/2" and the horizontal radical was about 3" high. So the 64K dollar question is how do I fix this scope misalignment to the bore? HELP!
Thanks
JR
Isn't the purpose of the level to show wether or not there's cant in the rifle itself so that the shooter can correct how the rifle is being held?
The reason for a level is so you do not miss left or right... The biggest point of this video is that the SCOPE must be level when the shot is made. The rifle being level or not is of least importance.
I see your point. Just finished a 6 day training op and space between my ears isn't at it's best.
Excellent video.
Over and over you say the bullet falls straight down ignores spin drift. You can not cant your rifle precise enough to predict your spin drift.
Now a nice mil reticle with half mils is a far better way and you can hold left or right depending on your twist.
That's just some of my limited knowledge
Good info!
thanks for the vid,and 5 degrees of cant equals .1 mill every hundred meters approx ;)
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge!
GOOD QUESTION. I have plumbed my reticle but when I shoulder my rifle (which was also leveled) the reticle looks canted to the left and it feels weird looking at it. I know that my reticle is plumbed which gives me reassurance but it still feels so strange.
Is there any way to compensate this while having a plumbed reticle?
Thanks!
First, It is very important that when taking a shot the reticle is plumb. It really doesn't matter if the scope is perfectly square to the rifle, as long as when the shot is taken the reticle is straight up and down. You can trust your eyes to level the crosshair at reasonable distance. For longer range shooting, I feel it is best to have a level installed on the scope. I personally would install a level, and set the scope in the rings so that it felt comfortable when you shoulder the rifle. Again as long as the scope is level/reticle is plumb, it does not matter if it is square to the rifle.
@@aroshtr Thanks for the reply!
Shoot. I forgot to add some details. lol
But I did install a scope level when my reticle was being plumbed. The leveled rifle was just out of preference.
So just to be sure. If a plumbed reticle appears canted from our “perspective” but the scope level indicates that it is plumbed, it’s still good?
It does appear level when I look from behind the buttpad of the stock but not when I place my head on the cheek rest.
I appreciate all your help! 👍🏼
@@spicychich1718 Thanks for the clarification. So in theory, you should be good to go. However, this does depend on how the reticle was plumbed. If you used a true plumb line set with an accurate long level or a plumb bob, and lined the reticle up with this line, I would think you are good to go. It is possible that it is an optical illusion. However If you simply used bubble levels set on the scope turrets/housing, you may have some error. It is important to know that the reticle in scopes can be installed slightly out of square/plumb. I have even seen this in higher end scopes. If this is the case, you have to make a decision. 1. If you are using the reticle for hold overs, you MUST make the reticle plumb to the level mounted on the scope. 2. If you are using your turrets to dial elevation, you will have to ignore the canted reticle, and set the actual travel of the scope plumb to the scope level. Once the level that is mounted on the scope is set correctly, feel free to adjust the rotation of the scope in the rings to feel comfortable to your eye. Obviously after doing this you will need to re-zero your rifle. Hope this helps.
@@aroshtr This absolutely helped. Thanks a bunch! Hope this also helps folks that had similar questions. Take care!
quite thorough
ohh, I see. Thank you for your video.
what is that stand you use in the back of the rifle
It is a rear support for precision shooting. If you visit my web site, it should make more sense. www.BipodBuddy.com
👍
whats the point of levelling anything if you dont worry about levelling the scope to the bore that doesnt make any sense then why do we even bother with levelling kits˜?
Jason Campbell There are three main reasons why I feel it is important to at least KNOW you don't have to have the scope perfectly aligned with the bore.
First, and most important, I wanted it to be clear that what really matters is the SCOPE being level when the shot is taken. Too many people think the alignment being off is what causes misses at long range when it is the SCOPE not being held level.
Second, I wanted people to understand that the gadgets/tools that align the bore to the scope are not necessary and their money could be better spent on other items.
Third, I think it is important for shooters to know that if they want to rotate the scope for more comfort or a better cheek weld they can do it as long as the level is mounted to the scope tube and not the gun.
no thats wrong, I have had a rifle and scope not level to one another, to make an adjustment you now have to make two correction in place of one. lets say your rifle is canted but scope is level, when you fire onto your target you find that your shooting low now to fix that you would have to make an adjustment of lets 1/4 moa up then you would have to make the windage adjustment 1/4 moe to the left
Jason Campbell I will be putting together a video that proves my point, as you are not the only one who thinks the bore must be in line with the scope. When you are say that you will need both windage and elevation to correct for a low bullet placement, this is only true if the SCOPE is canted. Imagine a gun being held vertical, but a scope at a 45 degree angle. In this example you are correct and would need equal windage and elevation adjustments to get the bullet to move straight up, and one 1/4moa click would only equal 1/8moa of elevation change. Take this to the extreme, and imagine a properly mounted scope over the bore, and then lay the gun on its side on the bench. Now the elevation and windage knobs would act opposite . To move the bullet up you would need to adjust the windage turret to the right to get the bullet to come up. and one 1/4 moa click to the right would move the bullet up 1/4 moa.
This is not what I am talking about. In my example the scope is held perfectly level, and the GUN is canted at a 45 degree angle. Thus when making a correction the elevation would track true. I agree that the bore will now be to the right of the scope in this case, but it is possible to sight in and hit the middle at say 200 yards. Keep in mind that as soon as the bullet leaves the barrel, gravity pulls it STRAIGHT DOWN. So lets imagine the barrel is off to the right by a full 1/2". So, If you sight in at 200 with the bullet hitting 1/2" to the right, you would hit 1/2" to the right at 100 and 400 or any distance. Now when you correct for the windage to sight in at a particular distance, you now create some angular error. If we now sight in at 200, we would hit 1/4" to the right at 100, 1/4" left at 300, and 1/2" left at 400.... Keep in mind the kind of cant we would actually have is so minimal that it will almost not be measurable in real world shooting conditions.
Jason Campbell no you’re wrong. The rifle can be canted but the reticle cannot, if you want precision. You can “approximately” align the bore and reticle, but you want your reticle to be level and setting up a scope-mounted bubble level helps achieve that in long range shooting.
wich rifle is this? A Savage? Model and caliber?
I believe he said it was a Remington 7mm magnum
Thanks for a great breakdown. I shun the nay-sayers, the math maybe intimidates them......I got it, and makes sense.!
what is that that you hold the butt of your rifle up with?
Holly, that is the "Bipod Buddy" we produce. They are for getting very steady aiming for hunting and precision shooting. Check out our website at www.BipodBuddy.com
Happy
good ,exc
Holland QD
levels are pointless. I have shot deer past 500 yds and shot targets out to 700 without them. Been doing it for 20 years and so were all the old snipers back in the day.
I disagree 100%
700 yds is a joke
Get to the damb point
Stop ✋ wrong Hunting is how close you can get to Game before you take a clean shot!!!
Very very bad advice, aimming at doors, neighbors window ?????
Rifle not trued to scope not important ??
So wrong...
Advice use a plum bob, hang dark string from your target at range with any heavy object. Than aim your reticle. This is true, and if you have level on action too, you wont go wrong
Chunky Father rifle doesn’t need to be true to reticle. Reticle must be true to direction of gravity and track precisely. Zero your rifle with reticle square and your rifle cant is irrelevant (but your reticle cant is critical)
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What??? Scope isnt square with rifle isnt a big deal? Who cares about how u hold the rifle? Bad advice!
tzsniper you dont know what you are talking about. The reticle needs to track very precisely in the direction of gravity, regardless of your rifle orientation. If it does, and your reticle is not canted when you shoot, you’re good. If your rifle is canted but your reticle is not you’re good
made it 2 minutes to many,umms, and's, uhhs....